Many years ago there was a coach paint here in the UK called tekloid. This paint could be brushed or rollered on. It would take a long time to harden fully but it flowed out to a very glossy finish. No longer available now.
Cool! Watched for the clearcoat. But actually had really good luck with 3/8 microfiber laying color so far. Seems to come out flater than 1/4 roller. I dont know why.
The additive that you added to it is a flow out of it where is a similar product in latex paint that we use to paint the woodwork it will flow out and you won't see no brush strokes if you put the right amount in
My idea is, paint is paint, no matter if rolled or sprayed. Most spray jobs came out with orange peel anyway. In both cases there is need to wet sand them and buff. The only important thing to pay attention is the roller, it need to be very clean
What a great assistant you have there. Could I borrow her for a few days to help me with my old Land Rover Defender? No pay, and she would have to pay her own travel to Ireland.
use more then a few drops, thins it out so it can lay even, roller is working out similar. try sponge brush? I want to do something like this on my tractor mower
There was this guy on you tube who had a 1966 Corvette stingray he said it took home six months to roll on paint and ten coats of roll on paint half burgundy and half white it looked sharp
Good video experiment. Granted, I don’t know why you’d want to roll paint a car when a cheap airless spray gun will give you a better result for $30.00 … but just to play along … your best hope of getting anything close to a a smooth paint application by rolling would be in sanding; between coats and a final wet sand. You’d need to use both a primer and paint that would be “friendly” to sanding for best results. Cost of sandpaper plus hours invested in sand an entire car multiple times, plus the extra expense of using any real automotive finishes would pretty much negate the value of rolling on paint and getting the cheapest “maaco” type paint job would be money better spent. I don’t argue that using plain ole alkyd enamel “hardware store” paint, thinned and hardner added and sprayed can give you a nice paint job, albeit a 1970s level of durability (which is fine in many circumstances); rolling on the same paint (especially without hardner and a ton of sanding) is going to give you limited visual appeal and will only provide you with some rust protection. Of course, some colors are going to hide roller marks and textures better than other just like “bad bodywork”. I suppose, for a hobby project, you could come out with a very sharp roll on paint job if you cared to invest unlimited time and effort to get it as nice as you possibly could, but time vs. money, it wouldn’t be worth it otherwise. I know the earliest cars, like the Ford Model T, were painted with a brush using black lacquer. It would be interesting to know how they looked when new, but I guess about like a new horse drawn farm wagon looked in the late 1800s; lots of brush marks and very little shine.
Need to see if I can find the hood now. Seem like it would require too much cutting and there wouldn't be enough clear left to last. I guarantee we can cut it smooth and make it look ok, but clear remaining would be less than a mil probably.
This saved me from my curiosity. Other videos doing the roller didnt explain well.
Many years ago there was a coach paint here in the UK called tekloid. This paint could be brushed or rollered on. It would take a long time to harden fully but it flowed out to a very glossy finish. No longer available now.
Cool! Watched for the clearcoat. But actually had really good luck with 3/8 microfiber laying color so far. Seems to come out flater than 1/4 roller. I dont know why.
That was very smart of you to put the metal purpendicular to the floor for this demonstration. As they say a video says a thousand words.
thank you definetly wanted a realistic approach.
Pretty cool experiment! Thanks for sharing.
I’ve rolled on 2k high build primers and it works well, especially on small panel repairs…
I can see this being helpful with some primers for sure.
The additive that you added to it is a flow out of it where is a similar product in latex paint that we use to paint the woodwork it will flow out and you won't see no brush strokes if you put the right amount in
Think I might have to try a paint brush next, thanks!
My idea is, paint is paint, no matter if rolled or sprayed. Most spray jobs came out with orange peel anyway. In both cases there is need to wet sand them and buff. The only important thing to pay attention is the roller, it need to be very clean
Great info very interesting thanks for sharing
when you tip and roll a boat ,you roll it on ,and smooth it and take the air bubbles out with a brush .
What a great assistant you have there. Could I borrow her for a few days to help me with my old Land Rover Defender? No pay, and she would have to pay her own travel to Ireland.
use more then a few drops, thins it out so it can lay even, roller is working out similar. try sponge brush? I want to do something like this on my tractor mower
maybe a brush on video needs to take place!!
There was this guy on you tube who had a 1966 Corvette stingray he said it took home six months to roll on paint and ten coats of roll on paint half burgundy and half white it looked sharp
It can be done for sure. Probably a lot more cutting and buffing than a normal spray job. I wanna try brushing some..LOL
So you spray without sanding between coats ok. Spray can leave as bad a surface texture without buffing so what’s your point?
Good video experiment. Granted, I don’t know why you’d want to roll paint a car when a cheap airless spray gun will give you a better result for $30.00 … but just to play along … your best hope of getting anything close to a a smooth paint application by rolling would be in sanding; between coats and a final wet sand. You’d need to use both a primer and paint that would be “friendly” to sanding for best results. Cost of sandpaper plus hours invested in sand an entire car multiple times, plus the extra expense of using any real automotive finishes would pretty much negate the value of rolling on paint and getting the cheapest “maaco” type paint job would be money better spent. I don’t argue that using plain ole alkyd enamel “hardware store” paint, thinned and hardner added and sprayed can give you a nice paint job, albeit a 1970s level of durability (which is fine in many circumstances); rolling on the same paint (especially without hardner and a ton of sanding) is going to give you limited visual appeal and will only provide you with some rust protection. Of course, some colors are going to hide roller marks and textures better than other just like “bad bodywork”. I suppose, for a hobby project, you could come out with a very sharp roll on paint job if you cared to invest unlimited time and effort to get it as nice as you possibly could, but time vs. money, it wouldn’t be worth it otherwise. I know the earliest cars, like the Ford Model T, were painted with a brush using black lacquer. It would be interesting to know how they looked when new, but I guess about like a new horse drawn farm wagon looked in the late 1800s; lots of brush marks and very little shine.
A trick I was told by aero modelers, was have the paint warmed up
mix with oil based flood penetrol 3 parts paint 1 part flood to remove roller marks.
What brand Mixing Lid and Pour Spout are you using on those 1 gal. cans? And do you like them?
Dedoes is the brand, yes they are awesome! Both racks that I have are dedoes racks
Great video.
So if you cut and buff, like you did on that last one, would clear coat be necessary
Not with a single stage
I'd love to get the air bubbles out of the sikkens single stage...any ideas out there to try?
Use a heat gun to try and pop bubbles while rolling
@@craigrodgers3691 INTERESTING!!
perbandingan cat sama thiner?
So you showed us how maaco does paint jobs they always look like that orange peel 😂
LOL
Cut and buff the blue/clear coat section…
Need to see if I can find the hood now. Seem like it would require too much cutting and there wouldn't be enough clear left to last. I guarantee we can cut it smooth and make it look ok, but clear remaining would be less than a mil probably.
It will not blow out if you keep playing with it
foam roller.
yes foam roller seems the best for sure.
Why don't you have a go at using a heat gun to remove the painte
Maybe on a tractor but not on a car
Mate -- Try using your stomach to roll out the paint