How to test the alternator output AC volts and the correct functioning of the Reg/Rec unit to charge the battery and power the ignition system and lights on the Bullet.
I think if you run alternator without it being connected you will fry the alternator stator windings--might not be immediate but it will cause windings to fail. It's possible to check voltage output without disconnecting anything. Only need to disconnect connections to test winding resistance for open or short and if you want to insert an ammeter.
Not sure on that score, as said in the video, i'm no auto-electrician but thats the procedure for testing given in both the manual and the hitchcocks how to PDF. It was only run very briefly as you see to establish current flow so I don't know, could anyone who does know auto electrics elaborate?
It should only be necessary to check for charging at output from rectifier ie. at battery terminals, to determine if alternator is working. If output not the required 14 or 15 volts say, then one may suspect stator coils which can be checked by continuity (ohm) test. No requirement to run motor. If need to check AC volts then that can be done with everything connected. I wouldn't run the motor myself with any disconnection of the charging circuit.
So my ammeter recently started diving all the way to the red.. Before it worked normal (always a bit on the right side while riding) I tested my alternator and it's getting around 11.5 volts @ idle and around 12.5-13 volts revved u a bit. I tested the voltage of the battery and it's around 11.5 volts.. Also I need to note that my blinkers are messing up. Sometimes the lights are off and sometimes they are on, but the right side will never blink. So i recently changed the flasher and it didn't fix a thing. Not sure what's going on with my bike but i ride it daily so it's messing with me lol..
Disclaimer, I'm no auto electrician but. ....... First thing I'd do is go through the loom back to front and check all the wires for good clean earth's and continuity. If your voltage across the battery terminals is peaking under 14V and not going above the rwg/rec is doing it's job so I'd suspect a bad earth or connection
Ok, thanks I will do that. I was just worried that i needed a new stator/alternator since the voltages were a bit low. But maybe that's due to a bad ground?
+Paully Waully They are a bit low, 11.5V at idle is lower than expected but if it rises with revs it indicates that it's charging and I've seen similar results from a battery on it's way out, with kick start bikes they are less obvious when this begins to happen. The good thing is it's not over charging the system and frying things and if the rest checks out then you can look at the generator outputs.
Well, a couple of the wires were hot to the touch so it must be a short somewhere. Even though i was a certified car mechanic back in the day, I'm not good with wiring stuff lol.. So i just bought a complete wiring harness for it so hopefully that will be the easy solution. I will keep you posted and I may even make a video lol. Thanks again for your help and time.
I'd be interested in seeing a video, it'd be worthwhile doing a replacement harness how to and a complete replacement should cure any wiring problems you may have. Warm wires are never agood thing so definitely a short somewhere and better to find them warm than melted.
Nice Video. My bullet 350 std has 3 wires on the stator and it gives only 8 volt AC on idling and 17 volt AC on revving. But the DC output from RR unit is 12.7 volt on idling and 15 volt on revving. My battery has draining issue and needs constant attention through trickle charger. What would be the issue here?
It would appear to be outside required numbers and is overcharging. This will boil the battery acid lowering the level and warping the plates making it difficult to maintain a charge. You need to investigate the charging system to get it within specs then replace the battery after you've done so. I'm not an electrical expert so I can't help with specifics unfortunately.
HI !! I HAVE THE SEPARATE REGULATOR AND SEPARATE RECTIFIER SYSTEM. I HAVE INSTALLED A NEW RECTIFIER AND AFTER INSTALLING , MULTIMETER WAS SHOWING A VOLTAGE LIKE 15 OR 16 AND EVEN 18 SO THEN I INSTALLED A PUSH/PULL SWITCH IN ORDER TO STOP OVERCHARGING. NOW IT IS COMING NEAR 13.50 WHILE IDILING, 13.85 OR 13.90 OR 14.00 WHEN ACCELERATING. MY AMP METER NEEDLE GOES TO POSTIVE SIDE WHEN I THROTTLE AND EVEN GOES TO EXTREME POSTIVE END WHEN GIVING SOME MORE THROTTLE. NOW THE QUESTION IS WHETHER MY BIKE IS CHARGING OR NOT? AS THE BATTERY COMPANY IS SAYING THAT THE VOLTAGE SHOULD BE NEAR 14.20 OR 14.25. I DONOT KNOW WHETHER THIS 14.20 OR 14.25 VOLTAGE IS APPLICABLE FOR OLD CI BULLETS OR NOT. AND I AM USING EXIDE 12V 14 AH ( 12XL 14L - A2 )
I'm so sorry but I can't say for certain, auto electrics are not my strong point, I know the basics but i'd recommend you check with someone familiar with vehicle charging systems.
Hi does it matter which way round the purple wires at the bullet conectors go as i disconnected now cant remember which way round they were thanks in advance 🙄
I'm sorry but I can't help there, I'm no expert on electrical things generally. I'd recommend checking with a local battery supplier or enfield dealer.
Can you please tell how the power is split among ac/DC? I read somewhere that it is 80w for ac and 40 Watt for DC circuit I.e. total power rating is120 w.i want to know how powerful fog lights I can install on battery so that it doesn't discharge
I have an issue, i have replaced 4 battery till now, battery drain after 10 days of interval, ampere meter is showing positive sign. It only discharges during night. Any help plz?
Hi there, hopefully you may be able to help me. My 2000 model 350 bullet seems to be having sparking issues. It was working fine and now suddenly the spark is very intermittent. It will usually spark the first time you kick the engine over then it won't spark at all from then on. I've tried a few spare plugs and its the same with all of them. Battery has a good charge, all lights etc work but the anmeter doesn't seem to work either. Any ideas?
Laceyktm It's tricky to say with any certainty and electrics aren't my strong point but it sounds like it might be a generator issue if the ammeter isn't working. If you Google checking Enfield bullet electrical system you'll find walkthroughs and it's all simple with only a multimeter or test light required, if you work your way backwards from the HT lead you should be able to locate it, physically check the condition of the wires and earth points as well.
spidiq8 thanks for the help. I decided to retrace all the wiring and found the connection from the coil was very dirt and even a little rusty. Cleaned it up and she sparked fine after that. On another note, the bike runs very well now as far as I can tell ( this is my first ever Enfield) but I notice that when it is running the ammeter needle runs very slightly into the green, at about the 1oclock mark. Is that normal?
Laceyktm I'm guessing yes, but mine had an electronic ignition fitted so the ammeter didn't operate because there's no make/break contact. They're not the most hi tech and voltage does fluctuate, as long as it's not showing a loss of charging you'll be good I think
salam Khan There should be an odometer on the speedometer clock which will show the total miles or kilometres covered. If the clock is missing or has been changed there's no other way to tell.
salam Khan Unfortunately that means it's been removed at some point and there's no way to tell the mileage covered. As long as it's running well and there are no obvious problems I wouldn't be worried though.
Sounds like you have no battery power, You can start the bike without battery but it will be harder and the generator has to maintain current. Check your battery voltage across the terminals, if 13V+ check the connections.
Thank you. Good video.
I also have a CI bullet repair channel dear friend. But in my mother tongue Malayalam. ഇവിടെ വന്ന മലയാളികൾക്ക് ഒരു നമസ്ക്കാരം 🙏🙏
I think if you run alternator without it being connected you will fry the alternator stator windings--might not be immediate but it will cause windings to fail. It's possible to check voltage output without disconnecting anything. Only need to disconnect connections to test winding resistance for open or short and if you want to insert an ammeter.
Not sure on that score, as said in the video, i'm no auto-electrician but thats the procedure for testing given in both the manual and the hitchcocks how to PDF.
It was only run very briefly as you see to establish current flow so I don't know, could anyone who does know auto electrics elaborate?
It should only be necessary to check for charging at output from rectifier ie. at battery terminals, to determine if alternator is working. If output not the required 14 or 15 volts say, then one may suspect stator coils which can be checked by continuity (ohm) test. No requirement to run motor. If need to check AC volts then that can be done with everything connected. I wouldn't run the motor myself with any disconnection of the charging circuit.
My 1997 500 Bullet has not got ac lighting, and runs off the battery.
The lights run off dc, ie, main lights, brake lights and indicators,
So my ammeter recently started diving all the way to the red.. Before it worked normal (always a bit on the right side while riding) I tested my alternator and it's getting around 11.5 volts @ idle and around 12.5-13 volts revved u a bit. I tested the voltage of the battery and it's around 11.5 volts.. Also I need to note that my blinkers are messing up. Sometimes the lights are off and sometimes they are on, but the right side will never blink. So i recently changed the flasher and it didn't fix a thing. Not sure what's going on with my bike but i ride it daily so it's messing with me lol..
Disclaimer, I'm no auto electrician but. ....... First thing I'd do is go through the loom back to front and check all the wires for good clean earth's and continuity.
If your voltage across the battery terminals is peaking under 14V and not going above the rwg/rec is doing it's job so I'd suspect a bad earth or connection
Ok, thanks I will do that. I was just worried that i needed a new stator/alternator since the voltages were a bit low. But maybe that's due to a bad ground?
+Paully Waully They are a bit low, 11.5V at idle is lower than expected but if it rises with revs it indicates that it's charging and I've seen similar results from a battery on it's way out, with kick start bikes they are less obvious when this begins to happen. The good thing is it's not over charging the system and frying things and if the rest checks out then you can look at the generator outputs.
Well, a couple of the wires were hot to the touch so it must be a short somewhere. Even though i was a certified car mechanic back in the day, I'm not good with wiring stuff lol.. So i just bought a complete wiring harness for it so hopefully that will be the easy solution. I will keep you posted and I may even make a video lol. Thanks again for your help and time.
I'd be interested in seeing a video, it'd be worthwhile doing a replacement harness how to and a complete replacement should cure any wiring problems you may have.
Warm wires are never agood thing so definitely a short somewhere and better to find them warm than melted.
Nice Video. My bullet 350 std has 3 wires on the stator and it gives only 8 volt AC on idling and 17 volt AC on revving. But the DC output from RR unit is 12.7 volt on idling and 15 volt on revving. My battery has draining issue and needs constant attention through trickle charger. What would be the issue here?
It would appear to be outside required numbers and is overcharging. This will boil the battery acid lowering the level and warping the plates making it difficult to maintain a charge.
You need to investigate the charging system to get it within specs then replace the battery after you've done so. I'm not an electrical expert so I can't help with specifics unfortunately.
@@spidiq8 Thank you. I will post update when the bike is fixed.
HI !! I HAVE THE SEPARATE REGULATOR AND SEPARATE RECTIFIER SYSTEM. I HAVE INSTALLED A NEW RECTIFIER AND AFTER INSTALLING , MULTIMETER WAS SHOWING A VOLTAGE LIKE 15 OR 16 AND EVEN 18 SO THEN I INSTALLED A PUSH/PULL SWITCH IN ORDER TO STOP OVERCHARGING. NOW IT IS COMING NEAR 13.50 WHILE IDILING, 13.85 OR 13.90 OR 14.00 WHEN ACCELERATING.
MY AMP METER NEEDLE GOES TO POSTIVE SIDE WHEN I THROTTLE AND EVEN GOES TO EXTREME POSTIVE END WHEN GIVING SOME MORE THROTTLE.
NOW THE QUESTION IS WHETHER MY BIKE IS CHARGING OR NOT?
AS THE BATTERY COMPANY IS SAYING THAT THE VOLTAGE SHOULD BE NEAR 14.20 OR 14.25.
I DONOT KNOW WHETHER THIS 14.20 OR 14.25 VOLTAGE IS APPLICABLE FOR OLD CI BULLETS OR NOT.
AND I AM USING EXIDE 12V 14 AH ( 12XL 14L - A2 )
I'm so sorry but I can't say for certain, auto electrics are not my strong point, I know the basics but i'd recommend you check with someone familiar with vehicle charging systems.
Hi does it matter which way round the purple wires at the bullet conectors go as i disconnected now cant remember which way round they were thanks in advance 🙄
Hi,can u please suggest me the best battery specs for a 2005 model electra 350 having kick starter only
I'm sorry but I can't help there, I'm no expert on electrical things generally. I'd recommend checking with a local battery supplier or enfield dealer.
Shouldn't the charging voltage not be over 14.4V? Yours give 16Volts?
You're very probably right but I feel like the system on these is much less refined than more modern ones.
Can you please tell how the power is split among ac/DC? I read somewhere that it is 80w for ac and 40 Watt for DC circuit I.e. total power rating is120 w.i want to know how powerful fog lights I can install on battery so that it doesn't discharge
Unfortunately I can't help with that. Electrics aren't my strong suit and I no longer have the bike or technical documents. Sorry.
I have an issue, i have replaced 4 battery till now, battery drain after 10 days of interval, ampere meter is showing positive sign. It only discharges during night. Any help plz?
put wires in magnet mode..bot in battery mode
Tell me sir.. where can i put earthing point ??
Anywhere on the frame of the bike will be good as an earthing point.
Mine would not start without a battery
Hi there, hopefully you may be able to help me. My 2000 model 350 bullet seems to be having sparking issues. It was working fine and now suddenly the spark is very intermittent. It will usually spark the first time you kick the engine over then it won't spark at all from then on. I've tried a few spare plugs and its the same with all of them. Battery has a good charge, all lights etc work but the anmeter doesn't seem to work either. Any ideas?
Laceyktm It's tricky to say with any certainty and electrics aren't my strong point but it sounds like it might be a generator issue if the ammeter isn't working. If you Google checking Enfield bullet electrical system you'll find walkthroughs and it's all simple with only a multimeter or test light required, if you work your way backwards from the HT lead you should be able to locate it, physically check the condition of the wires and earth points as well.
spidiq8 thanks for the help. I decided to retrace all the wiring and found the connection from the coil was very dirt and even a little rusty. Cleaned it up and she sparked fine after that. On another note, the bike runs very well now as far as I can tell ( this is my first ever Enfield) but I notice that when it is running the ammeter needle runs very slightly into the green, at about the 1oclock mark. Is that normal?
Laceyktm I'm guessing yes, but mine had an electronic ignition fitted so the ammeter didn't operate because there's no make/break contact.
They're not the most hi tech and voltage does fluctuate, as long as it's not showing a loss of charging you'll be good I think
Sir how to get mileage for this bike
salam Khan There should be an odometer on the speedometer clock which will show the total miles or kilometres covered. If the clock is missing or has been changed there's no other way to tell.
spidiq8 sir i don't have odometer
salam Khan Unfortunately that means it's been removed at some point and there's no way to tell the mileage covered.
As long as it's running well and there are no obvious problems I wouldn't be worried though.
spidiq8 sir can I ask another question if you allow me
salam Khan Of course you can, happy to help if I'm able.
amp metter is in middle bike not starting a but horns is not working headlight also what a mistake
Sounds like you have no battery power, You can start the bike without battery but it will be harder and the generator has to maintain current.
Check your battery voltage across the terminals, if 13V+ check the connections.
spidiq8 thank u bro i will checkit
how to start bullet without battery...plz anyone can help me...???
Check out royal enfield machismo 350 no battery required its basically a generator
Nakul Goswami
Some Old Models no needs battery
Hindi bullet royal Enfield electric sys 350 cc
Hindi bol Hindi