Making 18th Century Underwear | slow-making a shift
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
There are lots of tutorials on how to make a shift/chemise, so I wanted to take a slightly different approach to this project. I'm currently making a set of 18th century underwear (shift and stays and possibly a bum pad) by hand, as a slow-making, taking my time, handsewing project. I always recommend starting every costume from the foundations, and that usually means foundation garments! An 18th century shift was one of the very first few things I made years ago when I started sewing. It was made of polycotton, following pretty much all of the same steps as on this video, but doing all the main sewing by machine. That shift and this new shift seem worlds apart to me.
I really enjoy handsewing and I really enjoy linen, so this was a perfect little project to me. It was chilled out, kept me company through the winter evenings. There is a lot of handsewing, disclaimer, and yes, sewing under a table was a terrible idea, but 10/10 recommend sewing on the floor leaning on the radiator. And of course, anything that is sewn by hand on here can be sewn by machine if you prefer!
This shift was made from lightweight bleached linen which was 60'' wide. I only used about two meters or so (I didn't measure this, sorry!). I hope this is a little chilled out, relaxing, sewing company video :)
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Music is from Epidemic Sound.
My wife loves to make items out of rectangles. She mostly uses linen because it's hot and humid where we live. She'll sit and pull threads while we watch TV. Zzzzzip, zzzzzip, zzzzzip. Then she follows the lines and cuts the pieces apart. Next thing I know she has a pile of neatly folded pieces ready to assemble. Pulling the threads is something she looks forward to. She says it's very zen and makes the garments easier to assemble.
I'm so relaxed just mentally picturing that.
Lovely shift! I imagine it feels like being wrapped in a fluffy cloud. Hand stitching is a form of meditation. I've never tried under the table, that was so funny.
I’m so happy to see your comment here! This video made me think of yours. The slow meditative style of it. Makes sense that you like Cat’s videos too!😄
When you were sitting under the table...I felt that. 💚
"it is both protection and comfort" is a big mood right now! I love the calamity and that you did not let yourself be rushed to make a basic undergarment.
Those lovely close ups of hand stitching 😍. I wouldn't dare let people see mine that closely, it's a mess.
Shifts are such a basic item, but so comfy to wear and satisfying to make.
Your sewing is always filmed in such a beautifully meditative style, and never fails to make me feel calm and serene. I looooove hand sewing like this! For me, pulling threads and methodical stitching is the best form of meditation. It easily grounds me in the moment and keeps me present, quiets my mind, and brings me peace, all while creating something that brings comfort with each wearing. Thank you for sharing this with us! Be well, love, light and blessings to you and yours.
I also love pulling a thread to get perfectly on grain pieces.
.......ESPETACULAR......MAGNÍFICA.....INCRÍVEL........
I am so here for the gratuitous showing off of your regency stays as well as this lovely shift :)
A tip I’ve learned- if you plan to wear your shifts as nighties, and you also tend to roll about a bit while sleeping, backstitch the lot. While there isn’t much tension on the skirts part of the shift when sitting and standing, rolling about in bed is another story entirely!
Also, I’m curious as to how many people prefer to sew on a table or hard surface, and how many sew in the air, just held in place by your hands. It’s rare for me to use a table when sewing- generally only when I’m doing pleats or something like that. Everything else is held in the air above my lap.
I use a pillow in my lap. I can’t do it in the air but a table is too uncomfortable
I sew sitting on my lap. Usually using my knee as a support. Pinning stuff to my trousers so the won't shift during sewing xD.
Sewed some pockets while watching this, thank you for this calming sewing content!
I really like this shift it looks cool and so comfy to wear just as a night gown. Your hand sewing is really good. It make us realize how painstakingly slow garment construction was in the 1800s. So much appreciation for the modern sewing machine. Thank you for sharing this video.
yey new cat's video!! i actually was just thinking about making a shift...
What a beautiful video to relax to before the hectic day gets started. The snow coming down in huge flakes outside, a fragrant cup of tea, and a soothing handsewn shift tutorial. Thanks so much for sharing your shift sewing with us. It turned out beautifully. Take care.
I love seeing how other people sew - can't get my head around how you are stitching towards your body in a lot of this video, I usually end up sat with one foot flat, knee propped up in front of me so that I can pin seams to my knee (when wearing jeans) to get some tension while felling/hemming then work away from my body
I was once told I sew backwards sometimes too 😂
Your chemise is gorgeous....what an excellent job you did. A chemise is next on my handsewing list. I finished an 18th century linen petticoat.....ohhhhhhh...I can't believe I fell for the don't do the math for the pleats....didn't work for me....six times....but, I finally got it done : ) Hallelujah.
this is definitely going to become one of my comfort videos to have as company while I hand stitch my own projects ❤️
You truly are a Gibson's girl beauty Cat. Great work.
Its so nice to see Cay sew
You have beautiful handstitching!
I love shifts. They are such great underwear, make everything less sweaty. Even hot flashes 😁
I really need to make more of them
this shift and the short stays you wear in this video are both dream projects of mine! i can’t imagine anything more comfortable or empowering
Thank you. Appreciate the time you put into this video. Nice neat and tidy sewing. Shift looks nice and comfey.
I tried to make one of these a few weeks ago and it was an abysmal failure. You have inspired me to try again.
Your hand stitches are so tiny and neat. I am so impressed by the whole thing. How long did it take you to make?
I'm watching this on my phone right now but didn't want to wait until you were done to comment. Exactly the right kind of relaxing viewing I needed this fine Friday evening. Thank you Cat! Plus I'm planning linen shifts to wear under a lot of things for next year. I didn't get around to the shifts I was planning this past year, but they are inching closer to the top of the list.
I love this. Thank you for posting Cat, you just gave me a kick to start my own shift when I'm done with a shirt. I have some left over linen - there shall be piecing! :D
That came out so cute. Seems to be in the air to make a shift. I made one a couple weeks ago. Following a pattern generator and Morgan Donner's old blog tutorial. The same one she mentioned in her last video. I plan on starting on some stays this weekend now that I got everything together finally.
Always so lovely to watch you sew! I play your playlists during my tests to calm my nerves. Thank you! ❤
A lovely video (as always) and a lovely shift. Well done.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Beautiful work, Cat! I love the simplicity and comfort of a nice shift. It was the first piece I ever made. You are not alone in enjoying pulling the threads and snipping down that lovely clean line in the linen.
Such tiny beautiful even stitching! It looks lovely! I just purchased more lightweight linen with the idea of making a slip/chemise/nighty, all purpose sort of garment. I really like the look of this one, so I think I may try to make it like yours, though my sewing skill level isn’t to where it will look as nice as yours, and I may end up fudging and making it on the sewing machine due to time constraints.
I made myself a shift before. What I want to know is where you got that Hufflepuff sweater! It looks so comfy.
I'm a tad late, but this was the therapy I needed for today. My doll project includes creating 18th century clothing, and I'm having a lot of fun researching the perfect garments for her. Thank you for the help!!
Such simple but such calming content 💕. I love the finished look, especially with the stays!
Very nice hand stitching
I really like the way you have put this video together, it's very visually pleasing :-)
I love this shift so muuuuch 😭 I wanna make one so bad
lovely video, as always. ahh now im filled with new sewing inspiration haha
Lovely make!
I love the look of the fabric! I just want to touch it!!
Lovely
What a lovely relaxing video, thank you 💖
So pretty and elegant! Thanks for sharing.
A beautiful video with so much useful and helpful content! What more could a person ask for? ...just a little tidbit: did you know that both wool and linen have a vibrational frequency of 5,000 mHz? ...which is one of the reasons people today find linen to impart an almost healing feeling. Did you also know that scientists say if you wear wool and linen together...their frequencies will cancel each other out. That would then mean neither fabric has that "healing" quality. Last but not least...in most cases in the Old Testament of the Bible Yehovah God's priests were admonished to >not< mix the two fabrics: wool and linen. They had wool "uniforms" and then also linen (most were linen) but they should not "mix & match". I've always found this information to be quite interesting.
love this. adaptable
Beautiful stitching!
One day...hopefully in the near future... I will also complete one of these... and when I do I hope it is as beautiful as yours is (despite my not being as skilled in garment construction as I would like)
This is so helpful, thank you for sharing!
I love pulling the thread from my linen to make a cutline. Now if only I liked putting my shits together just as much they wouldn't be in my 'need to finish' pile. :}
This looks so comfy. I should make more shirts and shifts...
👗❤️
What is the name for the last shape of the shift at 2:50? It sounds like "goday". Your shift tutorial is probably the most understandable, beginner friendly I can find, so thank you so much.
A godet is an inset piece, usually triangle-ish shape, to allow more movement/volume in a garment. Often used in skirts and petticoats.
When both long sides are cut on the bias (instead of just one side like in this video), the fabric falls beautifully and creates a flowing, swoopy silhouette.
Question/ how dis you get that nice little channel around the square neckline? I tried with mine, but ended up having to do a facing for it, because I couldn’t double turn a hem around a corner.
Such a relaxing video, and the shift came out beautifully! One thing I started wondering about as you put your corset on (I'm new to the world of historical dress) - as the shift is meant to be worn under tight-fitting garments like a corset, wouldn't it be more comfortable if it was less roomy? Is there a particular reason why they are like that?
A shift is a double-duty item. It was commonly a night dress as well as an under-stays/corset garment, (most women had more then one shift for that reason - one or two to wash while one was worn) so it needed to be roomy. There's also a reason why linen was used - 1) Cotton was a very rare fabric - linen was grown and spun locally. 2) Linen is strong and hard-wearing even when finely spun and woven. 3) It's compressable and after it's been used and washed a few times it's very soft. 4) It's a comfortable multi-season material. It'll be warm in the Winter and pull sweat from the body in Summer.
@@margaretkaraba8161 Thanks, that makes a lot of sense!
Just wanted to add as well that because it’s made of very lightweight fabrics, even the wider cut ones aren’t very bulky when gathered by the stays/corset :)
Is this linen light weight or medium?
Lightweight!
@@CatsCostumery thank you. I’m very new to fabrics
Did you wash your linen before pulling the thread or after?
nice video! why do you sew under a table? Isnt the light poor?
Hi, having previously watched the video of your uni week,how do you have time to sit and hand stitch such a pretty shift ?
Im interested in why the thread was waxed? Why do this? TYIA
Waxing the thread makes it stronger, less prone to tangling, and it will pass through the fabric more smoothly :)
@@CatsCostumery thank you! I knew thered be a good reason. Do you wax thread for all fabrics or just linen?