Slade, I have a '69 Beetle. My family gave me a book on restoring Beetles for Father's Day; it lit a fire under me. I haven't started the car in 28 years; tomorrow will be my first try. I have watched hundreds of TH-cam vids -- VW Darrin, Mustie, Jawbreaker, EZGZ, and the list goes on. I have learned from them all. Your vids, however, are hands-down the very best. You are a natural teacher. I hope you will continue to do more vids. I can't tell you how thankful I am to you. Thank you, brother. I can't wait to see you build that motor from the ground up and watch how you put together the crank, cam, etc. May God be with you and yours. Also, why is it important to torque the nuts in a certain order? Victor Hall (Queens, NY)
@Victor Hall Your comment made my whole year, and that’s what drives me to keep filming and helping others! thank you Victor and thank you for taking the time to comment! I’m actually personal friends with Gary..Jawbreaker! He’s a great guy! And the others you watch are all great folks. I just picked up a 68, you’ll see that video in 48 hours. That’s the next project! This ones almost done. The 68 will get a new complete engine rebuilt. Inside out! I’ll be filming everything as I did with the super. It is truly very important to torque in sequence to seat the head properly being aluminum. You can add me on Facebook if you would like. For personal messages and assistance! On Facebook I’m Slade Beetles Thanks again for the kind words and compliments! God Bless my new friend! And be safe, healthy and happy! And remember, you can do this!! You got this!!!
I did my engine almost the exact same method as you, same torque patterns and all...only difference is I don't have an engine stand, so I built it mounted to the transmission..and I used regular gasket sealant, manly because I can't get the good stuff like you guys n the states hahahahaha....I even forgot to put the last deflector plate on there, I had to take it apart and put it on.... DOH!!!! Hahahahaha no big deal, its on there now....I hope she's a runner!!!
I actually bought my engine stand from Harbor freight, and a friend of mine loaned me the VW motor adapter, I’m going to have to buy one for myself obviously. He was trying to help me out while I was blowing so much money all at one time. LOL, soon as I put that side together, and got done with torque to the head, I looked over on the workbench and noticed it sitting there. Trust me that happens to a lot of the VW guys LOL
Thank you for sharing all those videos! They have a been a huge help when I had to replace the master brake cylinder and brake lines. Replacing leaking pushrod tubes is next on the list. I've always been postponing this but thanks to you I'm gaining confidence to actually do this (hopefully without being left over with 2 heat shields in the end 🙂) Best regards from Belgium, Robby
I feel better about my build after this video. I forgot the tin on first side. Remembered before I torqued the head and put it on. Forgot to set the tube seams. Took it off the second time. Moved to the other side and yep, forgot the tin again. In the mean time, I got my fingers all in the sealant at the base of the jugs. Thought the head nuts would never tighten up. Snug one and several others would loosen. All done finally and still weeks later I worry about those snap rings. Mistakes happen. Fix and move on. So many how to videos never make a mistake. That they admit to and show. Thanks for your videos.
Hey my friend!! Oh I show my mistakes I don’t care! I’m human and my brains usually on other stuff while I’m working on my car. I still remember staring at the tin on my bench while tightening my head down. 🤦🏼♂️🙄 Everything you named ive done more then once.Yeah your tightening and the next nuts are loosening up!! Then after 5 times around your thinking...hmmmm maybe I better check again. Lol
Great video. Good refresher course for me. It's been about 7 years since I've done the jugs on my 1965 bug. I have a dead cylinder on my 1974 super Beetle. Number 1 cylinder. I will adjust the valves first praying for a miracle that will fix it. Just bought the bug. It is supposed to be a new motor. Looks fairly newish. I think Number 1 is probably low on compression. Will have to drop the motor and investigate. Great video. Noel
I had the same problems with my number 1 , the sparkplug keep stop working, so I pulled the engine and it was a crack in the cylinder head from spark plug hole the valve, I am not saying you have the same problems,
Yes, I CAN do this! In fact I'm doing it right now :) Great to see someone using the old-style torque Wrench like I do! Most years VW recommended 24 pounds torque, only one year they said 18 pounds then changed their minds again. If using case savers do 30 pounds and the engine won't fall apart as quick.
Honestly they’re fairly easy to work on. Good luck with yours, I am sure he will do fine on it. I like the old-style torque wrench they seem more accurate to me. And of course I can’t afford a $500 one. Thanks for the tip on the pounds, I didn’t know they changed it around.
I am happy you say that as my torque wrench was out of torque, but I didn't realize until I had put the engine back in, I noticed I do have case savers and 8mm studs, I found out by checking the torque on the nuts behind the rocker arm, with a new torque wrench and they are torque at just over 24 ft lb and I was a bit worried about that, It's my first engine rebuild.
I noticed you didn't put any shim's in for deck high, I am wondering as I doing my engine at the moment, I have got about 1.5mm deck high on my engine and I believe that is fine.
Yes the pistons and rings, and cylinders are brand new. They’re very inexpensive so it’s worth putting new ones on. Those are stainless steel pushrod tubes from CB performance.
Could you recommend a parts supplier for a top end rebuild? heads pistons pushrod tubes. I have a 72 dual port motor and on a budget. I dont need high performance stuff im in ny Thanks great site
No I honestly didn’t. This motor will only be in this one for about 6 months. These parts are new, but I got them cheap off of someone. Just to get her on the road. I will be pulling it later on to go with a larger displacement.
Hi Slades! Great video, one question though, for a stock build how critical is it to measure the deck height? I don't have measurement tool at hand so wondering if worth it to make my own
You give me a lot of confidence, I may tackle the job myself instead of farming it out. I need to do a little bit of work on setting the compression ratios though. I think my engine was built wrong because it runs 90psi.
Yeah 90psi is a bit low! I will be doing a full rebuild soon, with new crank and cam etc.. and setting compression, but you’ll be done before I do that.
Great movies, please keep them coming. I have been following this with my 1600DP but found a steal ring on each of my heads where the barrel meets, should these be replaced or fitted with my new piston and jugs
I thought they should be copper rings to crush and stop any leak of combustion gases but if steel they probably are used to alter the compression ratio, the thicker they are the lower the compression would be I think!
Boy, I can't give you any crap for using the copper plus because I use it, I can't even give you any crap for using an extension on your torque wrench because I do the same thing LOL. Good job on another great video. oh ya, I have to laugh because I made the same mistake with the lower cylinder tin on the last engine I put together LOL I guess great minds think a like. Stay cool my friend!!!
Thank you Clinton!! Oddly enough I kept thinking...don’t forget the cooling tin. Of course I still did!! Lol I like the copper, and ultra gray on other stuff.
Nice method going vertical to use gravity, and also helps with tubes sitting in place without falling. I think it is better to load pistons into cylinders like you do, then install on rods... to me, its easier than the old way we were taught where pistons go on rods first.
Your right! I like loading the jugs first, then installing. Just seemed easier to me. Keeping it vertical is so much easier. Especially so the tubes aren’t hanging down. Thanks for being here!!!
Hi Slade, I've had that Sears tension rod ft lb torque type wrench since I was in my teens using it on muscle cars engines and VW's and worked great. In fact did a video recently double checking Harbor Freight Pittsburgh clicker torque wrenches and checking their torque value against the sears tension rod. They were right on. The nice thing about the tension rod one is it never needs to be recalibrated like the clickers do unless you somehow bend the rod but that would be obvious if it was off zero setting? I'm using mine now to recalibrate my clickers when dropped or been used allot.
Hey Tim!! I use the old ones a lot. I’ve read a lot on torque wrenches and one article said we cannot afford the ones they are truly accurate... probably nasa has them 😂 I do have clickers too, but they’re harbor freight ones 😳
Both styles are good and better than not using them. I like the clickers and used them at Boeing everyday on the landing gear. We even had a electronic calibrated twin spindle motors from Canada that torqued our 4 nose gear bolts to 1600 ft lbs at the same time. Saved us from getting hurt with the 6ft bar on the old style torque multiplier. You slip off that someone's going to get hurt which happened years ago.
I am new to the channel and would like your opinion on something. I have a 72 super beetle, the engine had probably less than 3000 miles on it when we had a flood. The car was completely submerged for about an hour. The oil was changed within a couple of days and water removed from cylinders. At this point the engine would turn. It sat for almost 2 years because we were busy rebuilding and taking care of other issues. Now it is locked up. I am going to pull the engine and tear it down, more than likely replace jugs and pistons. Should I go ahead and break the case apart or not? Just.looking for advice.
It's amazing how low at 18lbs the heads are held on. I don't know if the factory used a thread lock on the studs or if it's just corrosion but when I first rebuilt my engine 3 years ago, having never been split since it left VW factory, it took a lot more torque to undo ! I forgot to check deck height when I did this rebuild but I didn't have the machinery to make any changes and needed to get my daily driver up and running asap, it's held up fine for 20,000 miles so far but I regret not spending on stainless valves, next time!
Thanks for the vote of confidence but this takes LeveL of knowledge and patience I've yet to acquire. I tried my master cylinder broke a camera long story short why don't you live close by
@@SladesVWBeetle It's not so warm right now. Yeah my Sony broke while creating a master cylinder change fail. My laptop lost sound so I bought a phone to film until I find a even more expensive laptop and camera. Time for phase 2 10k plus club we will be there in 6 months by that time Slades garage will take over the TH-cam world 🌎 .
Damn brother I’m sorry to hear that! Honestly I use my iPhone 11 for filming. I would like a go pro but my wallet won’t let me right now. Your films are great! I like your editing skills, they’re mad!! I have good software but can’t use it yet. My older laptop can’t handle it. 🙄 Tomorrow will be warmer but then it’s all downhill after that. I grabbed a bunch of kerosene to heat the garage with today in case our idiot governor locks us down again. 🤦🏼♂️
Can you pls help me 😢 Im trying to install 10MM chromoly engine studs into the engine case... using aviation sealant hi-tack sealant. Some ppl say to only hand tighten it, but some say torque it to 22"/lbs. Thenstuds would not stop but kept going deeper into engine case so i stopped and wanted to confirm what is the best practise. Thank you!
I would honestly not be using a torque value. I’ve mostly heard of using loc tite or the aviation sealer and turning them in by hand. I have seen a few saying to torque them. But mostly doing hand tight
Another great video Slades. Lol my teacher back when I was in school had a few beetles he said he used to use Indian Head gasket adhesive right there talk about never being able to get them off Lol. I like the idea of putting a rag down in case you drop the snap ring. Most of the time my issue is I let go of it and it flys away lol. This makes me want to take my engine down lol but that’s too much work for not having a home garage though I do have a basement full of tools lol. I don’t have a beam style torque wrench like you used there I wonder if it is worth me investing in one.
That’s funny that you brought that up. I remember when I was in eighth grade, a very long time ago of course. My metal shop teacher had a Volkswagen beetle. Of course it was a new car then. I don’t know how I remember things like that. But I thought it was the coolest car. He let me look at it in the parking lot one day and sit inside of it. Anyhow, I don’t know why I went there with that story 🙄 The beam style isn’t bad, but you’re better off getting a clicker style torque wrench. Truthfully I have used Harbor freight ones that work just fine. We’re not building engines that are going on an airplane or anything, 😆. I try to shove rags in every hole that I can, just because years ago I regretted not doing it. 😁 do you may be have room to build a carport? Maybe set yourself up something. I feel truly blessed to have a garage, after working outside for numerous years. Thanks for commenting, and always the nice comments you leave.
@@SladesVWBeetle lol 😂 I wish my teachers drove cool cars of course my automotive teacher did but that was it. I do have a carport but my dad always sends stuff over to keep under there lol 😂. The plan was for me to turn it into a garage but I can’t find anyone to install a door right now and I can’t find anyone to assist me in putting up everything and running the electrical out there and everything the guy who was going to help me just stopped answering the phone haven’t heard from him since June I’m debating whether to call him back or not. I do have a few click style ones I have a Harbor Freight which was doing fine then I done some suspension work at home and replaced the bearings in my Camry so I had to get one that torqued higher for axle nuts so I went out to Home Depot and got a Husky one which is a really nice one then at work I’ve got a Snap-on one that’s pretty old. I only have 1/2 torque wrenches I haven’t ever found a use for 3/8 or 1/4 drive ones yet. I’ve also been visiting the pawn shop every month like I always do they let me fill up a box for $20 so I have been gathering tools for my collection, home set, work extras and some to keep in the beetle though it seems most of the ones they have there are SAE which I’ve never used on an import lol but use all the time on my old domestic vehicles. And you’re welcome for the nice comments always I really enjoy the videos and hope my comments encourage you to make more videos for me and the other viewers enjoyment 😄😁.
Yeah, years ago when my father was still alive. He was always bringing his one car over, and putting it in my carport. And my car sat outside. 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏼♂️🙄 I wish I was closer, I would’ve helped out. I do my own electrical, and my own plumbing. I’m going to put a new garage door on this coming year. My garage door is very old, was just trying to get my house paid off first. I would like to get a new insulated garage door and one that actually looks attractive. 😆 I have two torque wrenches that are half inch, the one is pretty big it goes up to 300 foot pound. And then the other is normal. I have a 3/8 drive here that I borrowed from my buddy until I get to the store. My half inch drive torque wrenches were not clicking off at lower values like 20 pound. I like Lowe’s and Home Depot for some of my tools. They have pretty good quality. Since I retired from being a mechanic I don’t have access to a snap on guy any longer. Which they always took me broke anyhow. I’ll be doing videos for quite some time. Especially with starting on the 68 in about a month or so.
@@SladesVWBeetle lol I feel you on the Snap-on guy I try to stay off tool trucks if at all possible. Yeah I try to do my own plumbing and stuff I’m not too good with electrical stuff lol. That’s funny two of my neighbors just got new garage doors because theirs were worn out.
I remember getting advice from a VW mechanic some years ago about going beyond the torque spec. because if only torqued to the spec, then the bolts might rattle loose. I had that happen to me once, so now I overtorque by a bit. Anyone else experience that or am I totally off that mark?
Funny that you brought that up. I didn’t wanna say in the video and give any bad advice. But I was going to 24 foot pound. But I didn’t dare say that, and then have somebody nail me for it. LOL, thank you for your comment.
I just multiple the foot lbs by 12 and come up with a value using an inch pound scaled torque wrench. 7 foot lbs would be 84 inch lbs on an inch lb wrench.
Sealant needed under lower head washers. They like to leak there. Put 'em real tight. Forget the torque wrench. Yiu can tell when they're really tight. The bottom studs are long. Top ones are short. They'll titen differently than the bottom. The later 8 mm lower studs stretch like a guitar string. Heads will leak at cylinder with factory torque will start leaking sooner you'd like. Once they start leaking it can make for a lean condition and kill the valve seats. How tight does an old school metal lid mayonnaise jar filled with water with the rubber lid seal removed have to be with so it won't leak when you shake it? Ever fix a flat on the side of the road? Did you need a torque wrench? Most of the above also applies to the big case nuts ... and the small ones particularly the ones that pinch the cam plug. All the studs go through different thicknesses of aluminum. The nuts that pinch the cam plug are supposed to have a round paper gasket. First the sealant, then the gasket. Get a little sealant on the threads but never be stingy with sealant. I think there's five of these gaskets in the kit. Two go at the pulley end of the case on the studs than pinch number 4 main bearing and the fifth goes on the long stud under it. Make your own and use them on the oil pump cover. I put them on ... every ... single stud on the engine, including the generator pedestal gaskets.
Keep the video's coming...Your a great VW mechanic teacher
Thank you my friend I truly appreciate that.
This will be amazing in giving me info for rebuilding my engine in the future. Thank you
Slade, I have a '69 Beetle. My family gave me a book on restoring Beetles for Father's Day; it lit a fire under me. I haven't started the car in 28 years; tomorrow will be my first try. I have watched hundreds of TH-cam vids -- VW Darrin, Mustie, Jawbreaker, EZGZ, and the list goes on. I have learned from them all. Your vids, however, are hands-down the very best. You are a natural teacher. I hope you will continue to do more vids. I can't tell you how thankful I am to you. Thank you, brother. I can't wait to see you build that motor from the ground up and watch how you put together the crank, cam, etc. May God be with you and yours. Also, why is it important to torque the nuts in a certain order? Victor Hall (Queens, NY)
I agree with you a million percent. BTW flushing native in the building lol
@Victor Hall Your comment made my whole year, and that’s what drives me to keep filming and helping others! thank you Victor and thank you for taking the time to comment! I’m actually personal friends with Gary..Jawbreaker! He’s a great guy! And the others you watch are all great folks. I just picked up a 68, you’ll see that video in 48 hours. That’s the next project! This ones almost done. The 68 will get a new complete engine rebuilt. Inside out! I’ll be filming everything as I did with the super. It is truly very important to torque in sequence to seat the head properly being aluminum. You can add me on Facebook if you would like. For personal messages and assistance! On Facebook I’m
Slade Beetles
Thanks again for the kind words and compliments! God Bless my new friend! And be safe, healthy and happy! And remember, you can do this!! You got this!!!
I did my engine almost the exact same method as you, same torque patterns and all...only difference is I don't have an engine stand, so I built it mounted to the transmission..and I used regular gasket sealant, manly because I can't get the good stuff like you guys n the states hahahahaha....I even forgot to put the last deflector plate on there, I had to take it apart and put it on.... DOH!!!! Hahahahaha no big deal, its on there now....I hope she's a runner!!!
I actually bought my engine stand from Harbor freight, and a friend of mine loaned me the VW motor adapter, I’m going to have to buy one for myself obviously.
He was trying to help me out while I was blowing so much money all at one time. LOL, soon as I put that side together, and got done with torque to the head, I looked over on the workbench and noticed it sitting there. Trust me that happens to a lot of the VW guys LOL
Thank you for sharing all those videos! They have a been a huge help when I had to replace the master brake cylinder and brake lines. Replacing leaking pushrod tubes is next on the list. I've always been postponing this but thanks to you I'm gaining confidence to actually do this (hopefully without being left over with 2 heat shields in the end 🙂) Best regards from Belgium, Robby
Thank you Robby, and thank you for taking the time to leave a wonderful comment
My first VW thanks for the video
I feel better about my build after this video. I forgot the tin on first side. Remembered before I torqued the head and put it on. Forgot to set the tube seams. Took it off the second time. Moved to the other side and yep, forgot the tin again. In the mean time, I got my fingers all in the sealant at the base of the jugs. Thought the head nuts would never tighten up. Snug one and several others would loosen. All done finally and still weeks later I worry about those snap rings. Mistakes happen. Fix and move on. So many how to videos never make a mistake. That they admit to and show. Thanks for your videos.
Hey my friend!! Oh I show my mistakes I don’t care! I’m human and my brains usually on other stuff while I’m working on my car. I still remember staring at the tin on my bench while tightening my head down. 🤦🏼♂️🙄 Everything you named ive done more then once.Yeah your tightening and the next nuts are loosening up!! Then after 5 times around your thinking...hmmmm maybe I better check again. Lol
You doing a great job there
Thanks very much Teon!
Great video. Good refresher course for me. It's been about 7 years since I've done the jugs on my 1965 bug. I have a dead cylinder on my 1974 super Beetle. Number 1 cylinder. I will adjust the valves first praying for a miracle that will fix it. Just bought the bug. It is supposed to be a new motor. Looks fairly newish. I think Number 1 is probably low on compression. Will have to drop the motor and investigate. Great video. Noel
I had the same problems with my number 1 , the sparkplug keep stop working, so I pulled the engine and it was a crack in the cylinder head from spark plug hole the valve, I am not saying you have the same problems,
It is going together nicely. I can definitely see the care that you use while assembling the motor. I am looking forward to the next video.
Thanks so much John!! I appreciate the kind words and thanks for being here!! 🍻
"Let's get started"! ☝.. Lol. Good one this time!
Thank you! And thanks for commenting!!
Yes, I CAN do this! In fact I'm doing it right now :) Great to see someone using the old-style torque Wrench like I do!
Most years VW recommended 24 pounds torque, only one year they said 18 pounds then changed their minds again. If using case savers do 30 pounds and the engine won't fall apart as quick.
Honestly they’re fairly easy to work on. Good luck with yours, I am sure he will do fine on it. I like the old-style torque wrench they seem more accurate to me. And of course I can’t afford a $500 one. Thanks for the tip on the pounds, I didn’t know they changed it around.
I am happy you say that as my torque wrench was out of torque, but I didn't realize until I had put the engine back in, I noticed I do have case savers and 8mm studs,
I found out by checking the torque on the nuts behind the rocker arm, with a new torque wrench and they are torque at just over 24 ft lb and I was a bit worried about that,
It's my first engine rebuild.
Fun stuff Slade! If you don't forget something along the way you just missed it. Thanks for sharing the build!
Thank you sir! And thanks for your channel! I’m enjoying it! Yeah my brain is everywhere then I have to go back and fixed what I missed 😂
awesome
i spin those snap rings too. glad you got the lower cool tin in place. we've all done it.
Yeah spinning them just makes me feel better. I forgot the first tin and was like....🤦🏼♂️
Very clean Installation 😍
Thank you very much for the nice complement.
great job!! i'll soon be doing mine :)
Thank you so much for sharing this.
Thanks for being here!!
@@SladesVWBeetle You are welcome. Keep it up.
Absolutely!!
I noticed you didn't put any shim's in for deck high, I am wondering as I doing my engine at the moment, I have got about 1.5mm deck high on my engine and I believe that is fine.
Great video!
Thanks so much, thanks for taking the time to comment.
You dont need to add any sealant to the washers and nut in the head rocker area? What keeps oil from dripping down the bolts?
Smart to put that rag to catch the ring if it fell! I hate that stuff. Very precise. Are those new pistons? and tubes?
Yes the pistons and rings, and cylinders are brand new. They’re very inexpensive so it’s worth putting new ones on.
Those are stainless steel pushrod tubes from CB performance.
Could you recommend a parts supplier for a top end rebuild? heads pistons pushrod tubes. I have a 72 dual port motor and on a budget. I dont need high performance stuff im in ny Thanks great site
Thank you Christina, I appreciate the kind comment. Honestly when it comes to that type of stuff I prefer CB performance.
@@SladesVWBeetle Thanks I have learned so much from your site. You wouldnt believe. thanks again
Do you not put any sealer on the pushrod tubes?
Yes, I use aviation permatex sealer. Just a very light skim. Some people don’t like using it but I do.
Did you use the thick wall slip in jugs?
No I honestly didn’t. This motor will only be in this one for about 6 months. These parts are new, but I got them cheap off of someone. Just to get her on the road. I will be pulling it later on to go with a larger displacement.
Hi Slades! Great video, one question though, for a stock build how critical is it to measure the deck height? I don't have measurement tool at hand so wondering if worth it to make my own
Great stuff as always!! Helpful tips that I’ll be using in the near future.
Thank you! And I am glad to hear this! Its all about helping others!
I have a freshly built 1600,
Just noticed oil leak from head to top of cylinder,
Retorque heads maybe?
Can I do this while motor is in car?
You give me a lot of confidence, I may tackle the job myself instead of farming it out. I need to do a little bit of work on setting the compression ratios though. I think my engine was built wrong because it runs 90psi.
Yeah 90psi is a bit low! I will be doing a full rebuild soon, with new crank and cam etc.. and setting compression, but you’ll be done before I do that.
Great movies, please keep them coming. I have been following this with my 1600DP but found a steal ring on each of my heads where the barrel meets, should these be replaced or fitted with my new piston and jugs
I thought they should be copper rings to crush and stop any leak of combustion gases but if steel they probably are used to alter the compression ratio, the thicker they are the lower the compression would be I think!
Cheers 🇦🇺
Cheers!! 🍻🍾
Boy, I can't give you any crap for using the copper plus because I use it, I can't even give you any crap for using an extension on your torque wrench because I do the same thing LOL. Good job on another great video. oh ya, I have to laugh because I made the same mistake with the lower cylinder tin on the last engine I put together LOL I guess great minds think a like. Stay cool my friend!!!
Thank you Clinton!! Oddly enough I kept thinking...don’t forget the cooling tin. Of course I still did!! Lol I like the copper, and ultra gray on other stuff.
Good
Thank you!!
Nice method going vertical to use gravity, and also helps with tubes sitting in place without falling. I think it is better to load pistons into cylinders like you do, then install on rods... to me, its easier than the old way we were taught where pistons go on rods first.
Your right! I like loading the jugs first, then installing. Just seemed easier to me. Keeping it vertical is so much easier. Especially so the tubes aren’t hanging down. Thanks for being here!!!
Hi Slade, I've had that Sears tension rod ft lb torque type wrench since I was in my teens using it on muscle cars engines and VW's and worked great. In fact did a video recently double checking Harbor Freight Pittsburgh clicker torque wrenches and checking their torque value against the sears tension rod. They were right on. The nice thing about the tension rod one is it never needs to be recalibrated like the clickers do unless you somehow bend the rod but that would be obvious if it was off zero setting? I'm using mine now to recalibrate my clickers when dropped or been used allot.
Hey Tim!! I use the old ones a lot. I’ve read a lot on torque wrenches and one article said we cannot afford the ones they are truly accurate... probably nasa has them 😂 I do have clickers too, but they’re harbor freight ones 😳
Both styles are good and better than not using them. I like the clickers and used them at Boeing everyday on the landing gear. We even had a electronic calibrated twin spindle motors from Canada that torqued our 4 nose gear bolts to 1600 ft lbs at the same time. Saved us from getting hurt with the 6ft bar on the old style torque multiplier. You slip off that someone's going to get hurt which happened years ago.
That’s some very serious torque!! 😳 I think the most I’ve torqued anything would have to be the rear drum axle mug in a VW bug 😁
I am new to the channel and would like your opinion on something. I have a 72 super beetle, the engine had probably less than 3000 miles on it when we had a flood. The car was completely submerged for about an hour. The oil was changed within a couple of days and water removed from cylinders. At this point the engine would turn. It sat for almost 2 years because we were busy rebuilding and taking care of other issues. Now it is locked up. I am going to pull the engine and tear it down, more than likely replace jugs and pistons. Should I go ahead and break the case apart or not? Just.looking for advice.
It's amazing how low at 18lbs the heads are held on. I don't know if the factory used a thread lock on the studs or if it's just corrosion but when I first rebuilt my engine 3 years ago, having never been split since it left VW factory, it took a lot more torque to undo ! I forgot to check deck height when I did this rebuild but I didn't have the machinery to make any changes and needed to get my daily driver up and running asap, it's held up fine for 20,000 miles so far but I regret not spending on stainless valves, next time!
Well I had a retaining clip go flying off and never could find the darn thing in my garage of piled up junk. Oh well, I reused one of the old ones lol
If it clipped in tight, you’re perfectly fine!
Thanks for the vote of confidence but this takes LeveL of knowledge and patience I've yet to acquire. I tried my master cylinder broke a camera long story short why don't you live close by
Hey brother!! You broke your camera? 😳 I wished I lived closer too!! My state is not very nice! 🙄
@@SladesVWBeetle It's not so warm right now. Yeah my Sony broke while creating a master cylinder change fail. My laptop lost sound so I bought a phone to film until I find a even more expensive laptop and camera. Time for phase 2 10k plus club we will be there in 6 months by that time Slades garage will take over the TH-cam world 🌎 .
Damn brother I’m sorry to hear that! Honestly I use my iPhone 11 for filming. I would like a go pro but my wallet won’t let me right now. Your films are great! I like your editing skills, they’re mad!! I have good software but can’t use it yet. My older laptop can’t handle it. 🙄 Tomorrow will be warmer but then it’s all downhill after that. I grabbed a bunch of kerosene to heat the garage with today in case our idiot governor locks us down again. 🤦🏼♂️
Make sure the wrist pin doesn't touch the clip.
Can you pls help me 😢 Im trying to install 10MM chromoly engine studs into the engine case... using aviation sealant hi-tack sealant. Some ppl say to only hand tighten it, but some say torque it to 22"/lbs. Thenstuds would not stop but kept going deeper into engine case so i stopped and wanted to confirm what is the best practise. Thank you!
I would honestly not be using a torque value. I’ve mostly heard of using loc tite or the aviation sealer and turning them in by hand. I have seen a few saying to torque them. But mostly doing hand tight
Could i possibly do the same thing without changing my pistons?
Yes you could just remove The heads. I’m not sure what you meant by that?
Nice work, quick question, did you go through the process of measuring the compression in one of your videos ?
Good morning Mike! I didn’t on this one. But, I’ll be doing a full rebuild in my next engine and will be showing how to check compression!
Don't forget the deflector plate that go between the cylinders before you install the pushrod tubes.
I did on the first side, as I brought up. I had to take it back apart
I did the same forgot the plate 😊
Another great video Slades. Lol my teacher back when I was in school had a few beetles he said he used to use Indian Head gasket adhesive right there talk about never being able to get them off Lol. I like the idea of putting a rag down in case you drop the snap ring. Most of the time my issue is I let go of it and it flys away lol. This makes me want to take my engine down lol but that’s too much work for not having a home garage though I do have a basement full of tools lol. I don’t have a beam style torque wrench like you used there I wonder if it is worth me investing in one.
That’s funny that you brought that up. I remember when I was in eighth grade, a very long time ago of course. My metal shop teacher had a Volkswagen beetle. Of course it was a new car then. I don’t know how I remember things like that. But I thought it was the coolest car. He let me look at it in the parking lot one day and sit inside of it. Anyhow, I don’t know why I went there with that story 🙄
The beam style isn’t bad, but you’re better off getting a clicker style torque wrench. Truthfully I have used Harbor freight ones that work just fine. We’re not building engines that are going on an airplane or anything, 😆. I try to shove rags in every hole that I can, just because years ago I regretted not doing it. 😁 do you may be have room to build a carport? Maybe set yourself up something. I feel truly blessed to have a garage, after working outside for numerous years. Thanks for commenting, and always the nice comments you leave.
@@SladesVWBeetle lol 😂 I wish my teachers drove cool cars of course my automotive teacher did but that was it. I do have a carport but my dad always sends stuff over to keep under there lol 😂. The plan was for me to turn it into a garage but I can’t find anyone to install a door right now and I can’t find anyone to assist me in putting up everything and running the electrical out there and everything the guy who was going to help me just stopped answering the phone haven’t heard from him since June I’m debating whether to call him back or not. I do have a few click style ones I have a Harbor Freight which was doing fine then I done some suspension work at home and replaced the bearings in my Camry so I had to get one that torqued higher for axle nuts so I went out to Home Depot and got a Husky one which is a really nice one then at work I’ve got a Snap-on one that’s pretty old. I only have 1/2 torque wrenches I haven’t ever found a use for 3/8 or 1/4 drive ones yet. I’ve also been visiting the pawn shop every month like I always do they let me fill up a box for $20 so I have been gathering tools for my collection, home set, work extras and some to keep in the beetle though it seems most of the ones they have there are SAE which I’ve never used on an import lol but use all the time on my old domestic vehicles. And you’re welcome for the nice comments always I really enjoy the videos and hope my comments encourage you to make more videos for me and the other viewers enjoyment 😄😁.
Yeah, years ago when my father was still alive. He was always bringing his one car over, and putting it in my carport. And my car sat outside. 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏼♂️🙄
I wish I was closer, I would’ve helped out. I do my own electrical, and my own plumbing. I’m going to put a new garage door on this coming year. My garage door is very old, was just trying to get my house paid off first. I would like to get a new insulated garage door and one that actually looks attractive. 😆
I have two torque wrenches that are half inch, the one is pretty big it goes up to 300 foot pound. And then the other is normal. I have a 3/8 drive here that I borrowed from my buddy until I get to the store. My half inch drive torque wrenches were not clicking off at lower values like 20 pound.
I like Lowe’s and Home Depot for some of my tools. They have pretty good quality. Since I retired from being a mechanic I don’t have access to a snap on guy any longer. Which they always took me broke anyhow. I’ll be doing videos for quite some time. Especially with starting on the 68 in about a month or so.
@@SladesVWBeetle lol I feel you on the Snap-on guy I try to stay off tool trucks if at all possible. Yeah I try to do my own plumbing and stuff I’m not too good with electrical stuff lol. That’s funny two of my neighbors just got new garage doors because theirs were worn out.
I remember getting advice from a VW mechanic some years ago about going beyond the torque spec. because if only torqued to the spec, then the bolts might rattle loose. I had that happen to me once, so now I overtorque by a bit. Anyone else experience that or am I totally off that mark?
Funny that you brought that up. I didn’t wanna say in the video and give any bad advice. But I was going to 24 foot pound. But I didn’t dare say that, and then have somebody nail me for it. LOL, thank you for your comment.
@@SladesVWBeetle But that is the kind of real-world advice I watch your videos for. I want to know what you really do when you work on a VW.
Is it the camera or do you shake pretty bad??? Gave me anxiety 😂. Nice video very informative. Subscribed
Haha! It’s me! I have tremors, very frustrating but I refuse to stop doing what I enjoy. Thank you for being here!
@@SladesVWBeetle never stop doing what you enjoy. Just watched this video again as i have to do my wifes 62 bug
I just multiple the foot lbs by 12 and come up with a value using an inch pound scaled torque wrench. 7 foot lbs would be 84 inch lbs on an inch lb wrench.
Sealant needed under lower head washers. They like to leak there. Put 'em real tight. Forget the torque wrench. Yiu can tell when they're really tight. The bottom studs are long. Top ones are short. They'll titen differently than the bottom. The later 8 mm lower studs stretch like a guitar string. Heads will leak at cylinder with factory torque will start leaking sooner you'd like. Once they start leaking it can make for a lean condition and kill the valve seats. How tight does an old school metal lid mayonnaise jar filled with water with the rubber lid seal removed have to be with so it won't leak when you shake it?
Ever fix a flat on the side of the road? Did you need a torque wrench?
Most of the above also applies to the big case nuts ... and the small ones particularly the ones that pinch the cam plug. All the studs go through different thicknesses of aluminum.
The nuts that pinch the cam plug are supposed to have a round paper gasket. First the sealant, then the gasket. Get a little sealant on the threads but never be stingy with sealant. I think there's five of these gaskets in the kit. Two go at the pulley end of the case on the studs than pinch number 4 main bearing and the fifth goes on the long stud under it. Make your own and use them on the oil pump cover. I put them on ... every ... single stud on the engine, including the generator pedestal gaskets.
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Thank you!!! 🍻
You wouldn't by chance know the head torque for a 65 beetle 1300 first and final torque.