Volkswagen Aircooled 2007cc Stroker Engine Assembly, Part 2 - The Long Block, Top End
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2023
- Todays video we will be going over prepping the new jugs and pistons, setting ring gap, deck height, compression ratio, cylinder shims for deck height, rocker geometry and much more.
Thank you for watching.
Please like, comment, share and follow along!
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I’ve been waiting all week for the new video!! your explanations and going into detail are just fantastic. I’ve learned more from watching your videos in the past 2 to 3 years than I have in the last 30 …the frustrating thing for me was when I would search TH-cam on how to videos the explanations and going into detail was just not there and lacking. You sir do just that !! it’s just fantastic. I even watch your videos that normally would not interest me just to learn and gain knowledge keep up the great work !!!!!
Thank you sir, I do appreciate the kind words and support!
I’m glad that I’m able to deliver what I’m trying to get across and that it does help people out. That’s the main purpose of the videos besides connecting with people like yourself. The more we all stick together and help one another the better the world will be.
Thank you
You are no an expert.... So you say but you are a heck of an engine builder
I have learned so much from your videos👍 so keep on the WOW (watch on Wednesday) videos coming. BGood👍🇩🇪
Thanks man, I do appreciate the kind words. I am not an expert but I do have experience in many things, some of that experience is learning from my mistakes.
I do hope you have a great rest of your week and we’ll catch ya next week.
Gary awesome job on the detailed steps!! Gives hope to all us home garage wrenchers!
Thanks, I appreciate that.
That’s the hope anyway!
Good stuff, Gary. Even with camera issues, your vids are always perfectly detailed. Thanks again.
Thanks, glad you’re able to make it though.
Thank you once again Gary. When setting the distributor gear is the motor set at TDC before dropping in the gear. Only part I haven't had to do yet.
Yes, good question.
Verify you’re at TDC on the pulley and the valves are loose on #1. Then install the drive gear.
Nothing like watching a Master at his craft!
I appreciate that but I’m far from being a master engineer builder.
Thanks for the video Gary see ya on the next one.😁
Thanks 👍
Have a great week.
22:38-22:50 ROFL I've done that a few times over the years
Just a few times? 😂
Seems like every time I put them in it happens 🤣
That’s one reason why I like the wind age tubes, it’s longer into the case and they stay put.
Very nice work !!!!
I made 2 adjustable stands for checking the rod weight.
Great tip and a great idea!
Thanks, Gary...You have a knack for making great vids (despite all the camera overheating issues lol) and you communicate like an accomplished broadcaster.
I've built a few of these strokers, but I always pick up a good idea from your vids.
I appreciate the (free) content! 😂
Thanks, I really do appreciate that and appreciate you being here!
Is there anyway, you would write up a step by step, each and every little thing you do, in order, when building. Most videos just roll through without the ocd stuff. That’s what I like.
Thanks
Sully
Haven’t really thought of that before… let me think on it.
Nice work Gary always nice to button up a motor:)
You got that right. Even better when it fires right up and he’s happy.
Another great simply explained engine assembly tutorial! 🙂👍👍
Glad you liked it!
Another great video.
Thanks again!
That was an excellent presentation thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
I use CB Performance's online CR calculator too. very handy. Always a pleasure to watch a meticulous and methodical engine builder at work:) And no I don't use sealant on the pushrod tubes either, never leaked a drop.
As always, we have many things in common lol
I still wouldn’t call me a true builder, I’m somewhere in between.
@@VWJawbreaker I've seen allegedly professional engineers do much worse Gary! Keep up the good work:)
I learned from an engine builder your circlips should be fitted with the eyes at the bottom so on the firing stroke the clip will open and tighten in the groove, if assembled with eyes at the top of the piston the circlip can collapse and fall out of the groove causing catastrophic grooves in the bore.
Every builder has different things that they do.
Imo, if you have a clip fall out it’s due to import per installation.
If your clip falls out due to the wrist pin hole flexing, you’ve got more issues than just the placement of the clip position…. The wrist pin hood is the strongest part of the piston, there isn’t any flex going on there.
I guess it only applies to high performance engines but it makes sense. I overthink everything keeps me awake at night lol
@@VWJawbreaker yes and some poor quality clips around too terrible spring steel
@@VWJawbreaker nice work though that engine must have heaps of torque! I’ll keep watching your vids before I build a VW engine! Haven’t built one for 40 years!
It doesn’t just apply to high performance engines, the engine I have in my car has been going for over 4 years without issues.
I appreciate you being here and sharing your thoughts. So many ways of doing things and sometimes what works for one may or may not work for another. As long as we can keep these classics on the road, by us working together, that’s what matters to me. 🤙
You're a maniac! Love the engine building prowess...if you ever open a VW shop, I'll come be your shop cleaner (and maybe do some fab).😊
I’ve been called worse 😂
I don’t see me opening a shop in this lifetime but I’ll keep that in mind!
Try Versachem Mega Black. It is much better and stronger than the Permatex ultra black. I bought it when they were out and never will go back to the Permatex. it us just better in every way.
I’ll look for it, thanks for the heads up.
I’ve been meaning to get more of the right stuff and try that out on the heads but always use what works best for me.
Good clean part’s
I didn't notice the single-port heads on the teardown, single port stroker supercool. Wonder what the torque numbers are on that one!
Yep it’s a great runner especially in his bus. Not sure if the numbers though
Killer work, sir! Would love to see the startup.
Appreciate it sir.
Unfortunately I didn’t get a start up video but he’s super happy to be back on the road again.
Would love to see y'all fire that up!
Unfortunately I didn’t record the fire up day but she fired right up and ran great.
Pretty plane and simple not ! Gary your a bundle of information fun and exciting ! Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it, I appreciate you being here.
Awesome job as always 👌
Thank you so much 😀
Thanks again for another great video. 🤙
Thank you as always 🤙
I enjoyed watching you with the build 1 & 2 thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Much more to come, stay tuned!
Many thanks,
You are welcome!
I love your videos! I learn so much useful stuff! Thanks!
Glad you enjoy them!
Thank you for being here.
Excelente video muchas gracias desde ejipto
Glad you enjoyed it 🤙
Hey Gary great build video, I remember one of my first builds I left the heat deflecter tins off realized it after the heads were both on, lol, catch you on the next one buddy 😀😀
Thank ya sir! You’re not the only one who’s forgot those air deflectors 😂
SWEET !!!
🙏
That will be a good runner. Not certain but it looked like the wires for the ignition module had pulled towards the distributor shaft. Might be worth a look. I have seen them rub through the leads and short out. l love the combination.
I’ll have him double check. This build was a while back and the engine went back in over a month ago.
Hi Gary.
Damian over at Binder Builder sent you a message yesterday about a guy wanting an idea on cost to build a VW motor. That guy is me. LOL!!
Im new to all of this...Like 2 months into the community new. LOL!!
I was just trying to get an idea of cost for a 2054 or 2276. Def going new block route.
Hope this isnt to confusing
Hey Tim!
It’s difficult to answer your question exactly, parts prices are still up since before the pandemic.
I’d reach out to some professional builders preferably in your area. You’ll need to know what it’s going into and what type of driving you plan on doing so they can build it accordingly. There’s a guy here in Florida that builds some great engines and again depending on how radical you go, you can spend anywhere between $4-$10k.
Thanks Gary!!! I appreciate the help!! Between you and Damian you guys have really kept my interest up!! Grwat videos with great explanation!!
Keep up the great work!! We all appreciate it!!
@@timswitzer792 happy to help! I appreciate the kind words and you being here.
OK great video. But, why did the previous guy use that many shims?
I would have thought that .080 to 090 would have given a better compression ratio of around 8.1:1
Appreciate it.
Deck height isn’t the only factor in compression ratio. These single port head chambers are on the small side.
Looking good... but that deck height is way over the recommended range!! That shouldn't be over. 060 to .070 otherwise detonation is a concern
It’s not an issue to run .090 deck especially on certain builds.
Also, no way to run less with single port heads unless you want the compression to be through the roof then your engine won’t last.
Gary On the end play. Did you need to use 4 shims like some of the AA cranks? or did CB fix that on their cranks. We have had like .0100 too much tolerance on the end of the cranks from AA. Which is a PIA.
No, I was able to reuse the 3 shims it was originally built with.
I did notice the difference in the Aa cranks vs the cb crank in regards to the end play, seems like cb is more on the ball.
The last Aa crank I was able to find a thicker shim to obtain the 3 shims needed.
👍👍
Great video, I learned a lot but I do have a question about the heads and compression. My 2007cc engine has a very similar set-up to this motor in that my motor also uses 90.5mm B pistons. When my motor was going together my builder as worried that I wouldn't have enough compression to run, but he changed his mind after putting together the bottom end.
My first question is how did this 2017cc motor have such little deck height having B pistons? Even with standard cylinders there should be more deck space than shown.
My second question is about the heads. Isn't it strange to use single port heads on a motor this large? Wouldn't they create a choke point killing mid range power While making more heat? Even stock valve dual port heads would work out better.
Hey buddy! Great to hear from you as always.
I’ll answer in the order that you asked and let’s see how it goes:
1. Usually when using B pistons, some will use a shorter rod to eliminate the need of the deck shims. I did figure out that this case had been decked on both sides which would require more shims.
2. Some people still love the single port engines. This being in a bus, you need mostly low and some mid range torque. The only benefit of going dual port would be some mid and mostly upper rpm performance. A bus isn’t going fast and doesn’t need those high rpm’s.
I know of a 2332cc turbo single port that’s fast as crap. It just isn’t much good over 4500 rpm due to the heads but is a massive torque monster.
Different strokes for different folks basically.
Why did you use SP heads, DP heads run cooler and makes more power.
I'd really like to hear your thoughts on this.
Part one would answer your questions 🤙
👍
🙏
great video I have a question.
my brother has a 1600 in his 72 bay which was second hand engine but ran. there were issues with the mounting points so he took out to fix he took the opportunity to redo all external parts of the block ie distributor and such all went back but timing is around 180° off for it to start and run but run rough any clue wat wud cause this please? thanks❤
The distributor can only be installed one way due to the offset cam that the distributor sets into the drive gear.
Easiest thing to do is just move your plug wires around according so #1 points to #1 plug wire.
Otherwise you’d need to remove the drive gear with a special tool that isn’t very expensive but also make sure when you do that you done make the 2 shims under the drive gear fall out of place and into the engine case.
Un placer conocerte soy un seguidor de tu canal tengo dudas y estoy aprendiendo sobre el tema de los vochos mi pregunta tengo un. Eje de leva fk44 cuanto es la elevación que debe de tener total . Tendrás también un libro para poder leer aprendo mucho con tus videos quiero tener más conocimiento espero una respuesta
The Engle FK44 is a newer VW Cam for serious engines. It is designed for 1.4-1.5 rockers, and it's specs are .391" Cam Lift, .547" Valve Lift (1.4 Rockers) 287 degrees of advertised duration, and 258 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center..
This is an excellent Ratio Rocker Grind, similar in behavior to the Engle 120/125, with a 3000-7000RPM Power band. It comes on strong in the mid range, make sure you match your head flow and valve lifts to the cam!
Dual springs are REQUIRED. Works best with Compression from 9.00-9.5:1. This cam is clearanced to work with all crankshaft strokes and rod combos.
Where do you put the ring gaps when the pistons are in the cylinders?
9:59
Sorry for the late question but, you stated you had .115 deck height. I tought ideal deck height would be between .045 and .070.? Won't that much deck height put most of the firepower in cylinder instead of head chamber? Confused.
Absolute minimum is .040” due to potential piston to valve issue.
Ideally, no more than .090”. However, there is a story with this build covered in part 1. I didn’t design this engine rather than just fixing the failure and putting it back together for my friend. If it was up to me we would have gone dual port heads with a larger cc however that wasn’t an option as he wanted to keep it single port for his bus.
I can’t add more cc’s in the heads so to keep the compression ratio in check, I had to go back with .115” deck as the original builder had it.
Dose the silicone add much to the total thickness of the shims?
If you’re not careful it will. You don’t need a lot and also torque the heads down before it dries up causing the the little excess to squeeze out leaving only what it needs in place.
Hello, just put in a brand new 1835cc zero mileage what motor oil do you recommend for florida weather. Thank you.
Honestly I’d talk to the builder and see what they recommend in regards to oil weight. Other than that you need a high zinc oil, preferably one with the additives already added in instead of adding additives.
Thank you
2017cc single port head!?
Why!!!?
Because that’s what he bought for his bus.
Watch the first video.
Looks the dogs bollox mate, bet your dead chuffed with it
He’s very happy having the engine back in his bus.
Why are you building an engine with single port heads of that caliber? It doesn't make sense.
Watch part one and it will make sense.
Will do. Thanks for the quick reply. Appreciate it.
@@drakea.5816 I do my best especially with the amount of comments and questions that I get.
Have a great holiday!