@@SealedBeamRallyTeam when I bought my F600 the firewall mounted booster was leaking. Still had brakes but were less than perfect. I don’t like single chamber master cylinders because they supply both front and rear brakes and a leak anywhere can cause total brake failure. I removed the original booster and saved only the mounting bracket and pushrod. I split my brakes so front and back were on separate circuits and installed a dual master cylinder with its attached booster. I reused the original mount with minor modifications. The booster and master cylinder were off a cab over Mitsubishi FE only because I already had those parts. I’ll change back to a dual chamber Ford when I find the parts in a wrecking yard.
@@geraldtrice4894 Fabulous. I've been wanting to change to dual circuit (on both trucks). Do you have the inline 6 with the intake on the driver's side? The 215/223/262 has the air cleaner on the driver's side, and they switched to passenger side for the 240/300. I'll be checking with a brake specialist here in the twin cities before i go forward with either hydrovac or conversion.
Another great video. 4k is nice but not necessary. Also have you set the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge? Get the engine warm, make sure the choke is all the way off, then hook up a cheap vacuum gauge to a port at the very bottom of the carb or on the intake. Keep making small adjustments on the mixture screws until you get the most vacuum you can. It is one of those things that just can't be set by ear. It makes a lot of difference. Speaking of vacuum, your vacuum advance on the distributor should go to a port above the butterflies. It should have little to no vacuum when idling but should pull more vacuum as you open the throttle. Good to see you rowing through the gears in mouse. Instead of captive nut panels, try rivet nuts. Just put a dab of sealant around them when inserting them to keep things from rusting. I used the gold colored steel ones and they work great.
I have a vacuum gauge but haven't used it for tuning yet. Partly because I've been pressed for time! I'll throw it on eventually, but probably after pulling the engine this winter. I bought a rivnut gun and am very unhappy with it so far. Have used them successfully before on bikes. Maybe i need to just do it without the gun. Then again, the whole thing might change...
Give a crap...??? I dont even know what 4k is!!! I love the videos as they are!!! Love to see the old property!!! And the Nikki, of course!🐈 Chicken cameos are great, too!!!🐓
Might check the total advance on the timing? Sounds sluggish, vacuum advance might be stuck or leaking ?Most engines use about 30 degrees of advance after you hit the accelerator pedal, don’t know much about a Saab but the springs in the distributor should be doing the advancing, the quicker the advance the more torque on the lower end. You can tune by ear ? Just listen for more power, the older the engine the more slop in components and setting the timing on spec won’t give you the best power or economy. Thanks for the video!
I ended up finding out that I was using incorrect distributor cam lubrication so the points were closing up and messing up the dwell. I also was not disconnecting vacuum before timing, which probably was costing me some power.
Super cool to see the Saab running so smoothly!!!
I have a 1965 F600 so enjoy watching you get your F600 into driving shape.
Curious- do you still use the original hydrovac brake system?
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam My F600 came from the factory with a firewall mounted brake booster and a single reservoir master cylinder.
@@geraldtrice4894 REALLY?? What engine? I would love to know some part numbers for that setup before I go spend hundreds getting my booster restored.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam when I bought my F600 the firewall mounted booster was leaking. Still had brakes but were less than perfect. I don’t like single chamber master cylinders because they supply both front and rear brakes and a leak anywhere can cause total brake failure. I removed the original booster and saved only the mounting bracket and pushrod. I split my brakes so front and back were on separate circuits and installed a dual master cylinder with its attached booster. I reused the original mount with minor modifications. The booster and master cylinder were off a cab over Mitsubishi FE only because I already had those parts. I’ll change back to a dual chamber Ford when I find the parts in a wrecking yard.
@@geraldtrice4894 Fabulous. I've been wanting to change to dual circuit (on both trucks). Do you have the inline 6 with the intake on the driver's side? The 215/223/262 has the air cleaner on the driver's side, and they switched to passenger side for the 240/300.
I'll be checking with a brake specialist here in the twin cities before i go forward with either hydrovac or conversion.
Great work as usual...gretings from sweden
Another great video. 4k is nice but not necessary. Also have you set the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge? Get the engine warm, make sure the choke is all the way off, then hook up a cheap vacuum gauge to a port at the very bottom of the carb or on the intake. Keep making small adjustments on the mixture screws until you get the most vacuum you can. It is one of those things that just can't be set by ear. It makes a lot of difference. Speaking of vacuum, your vacuum advance on the distributor should go to a port above the butterflies. It should have little to no vacuum when idling but should pull more vacuum as you open the throttle.
Good to see you rowing through the gears in mouse.
Instead of captive nut panels, try rivet nuts. Just put a dab of sealant around them when inserting them to keep things from rusting. I used the gold colored steel ones and they work great.
I have a vacuum gauge but haven't used it for tuning yet. Partly because I've been pressed for time! I'll throw it on eventually, but probably after pulling the engine this winter.
I bought a rivnut gun and am very unhappy with it so far. Have used them successfully before on bikes. Maybe i need to just do it without the gun. Then again, the whole thing might change...
Give a crap...??? I dont even know what 4k is!!! I love the videos as they are!!! Love to see the old property!!! And the Nikki, of course!🐈 Chicken cameos are great, too!!!🐓
4k is higher resolution than 1080p. Like blu ray vs DVD i guess? Some people apparently care about it
Love the Saab also the truck :)
Don't need to be 4K - keep things simple.
Might check the total advance on the timing? Sounds sluggish, vacuum advance might be stuck or leaking ?Most engines use about 30 degrees of advance after you hit the accelerator pedal, don’t know much about a Saab but the springs in the distributor should be doing the advancing, the quicker the advance the more torque on the lower end. You can tune by ear ? Just listen for more power, the older the engine the more slop in components and setting the timing on spec won’t give you the best power or economy. Thanks for the video!
I ended up finding out that I was using incorrect distributor cam lubrication so the points were closing up and messing up the dwell. I also was not disconnecting vacuum before timing, which probably was costing me some power.