The nylon fuel lines are actually very robust. It looks like you have the flex pipe going straight to the wheel, The Flexi brake line to the rear axle should go to a t piece which should be bolted onto the axle and then have solid lines to each wheel. You will find the rivets holding the push clips for the carpets will corrode and pull away from the body.
@@sharleysgarage there are some drain holes, I enlarged all mine to help stop the foot wells collecting water, the original holes can block easily with grit/ dirt and leaves etc. came in handy after i drove through a flood, car cut out and water flooded over the sill into the foot wells, the bigger holes allowed the water to just drain back out.
Dunno if this helps, but on my Rialto the front brake hose is as you said male unions at both ends and about 18" long with the wheel fitted to the bracket on the brake plate with a nut and shake proof washer and at the engine bay end the hose spigot goes through the engine bay bulkhead onto strip like bracket thats part the radiator mounting plate using the same size nut & washer as at the wheel end, i'll have a look tomorrow at the back end setup and report back.
It`s better to drill through the welded nuts and nut and bolt the radiator, So you can use metric nut, Bolts and tools, I would recommend a aluminum alloy radiator, I had a plastic top one that was okay, But I replaced it anyway, You get a 15 % increase in cooling, On RestoreStore Channel he replaced the brake lines himself with the body off and with a Regal, So you can see how it`s done, I suspect the layout is the same on all Reliant`s
I used imperial hardware as thats what i had in the unit at the time. I welded the bolts onto the brackets so i dont have to fish around in the engine bay for holes. I using the radiator i have to keep costs down. Ive found out i ordered the wrong brake hoses so correct ones have been ordered! Thanks for your comments.
With respect to your closing question...You should do more of what interests you. Less of what interests others. It’s your channel...You’ll soon tire of it, if yer pursuing someone else’s interests. Of course it’s entirely up to you in the end. Thx for the interesting content. Cheers 👍
Tbh I appreciate the feedback, the Channel was just because I was doing the work anyways, the cars are all mine and all to be done. This just documents the journey. I might do the odd thing that people want but fundermentally its a man in a shed with no time trying to rebuild 20 cars 🤣 time I have to edit videos comes out of the hours I should be sleeping.
The nylon fuel lines are actually very robust.
It looks like you have the flex pipe going straight to the wheel,
The Flexi brake line to the rear axle should go to a t piece which should be bolted onto the axle and then have solid lines to each wheel.
You will find the rivets holding the push clips for the carpets will corrode and pull away from the body.
i did wonder what the holes in the floor were for, i just assumed drain holes!
@@sharleysgarage there are some drain holes, I enlarged all mine to help stop the foot wells collecting water, the original holes can block easily with grit/ dirt and leaves etc.
came in handy after i drove through a flood, car cut out and water flooded over the sill into the foot wells, the bigger holes allowed the water to just drain back out.
Another great video keep them coming thanks
Thank you for the comments and continued support!
Dunno if this helps, but on my Rialto the front brake hose is as you said male unions at both ends and about 18" long with the wheel fitted to the bracket on the brake plate with a nut and shake proof washer and at the engine bay end the hose spigot goes through the engine bay bulkhead onto strip like bracket thats part the radiator mounting plate using the same size nut & washer as at the wheel end, i'll have a look tomorrow at the back end setup and report back.
Thanks Steve that's just what I was hoping someone might be able to share. It just didn't look right to me!
It`s better to drill through the welded nuts and nut and bolt the radiator, So you can use metric nut, Bolts and tools, I would recommend a aluminum alloy radiator, I had a plastic top one that was okay, But I replaced it anyway, You get a 15 % increase in cooling, On RestoreStore Channel he replaced the brake lines himself with the body off and with a Regal, So you can see how it`s done, I suspect the layout is the same on all Reliant`s
I used imperial hardware as thats what i had in the unit at the time. I welded the bolts onto the brackets so i dont have to fish around in the engine bay for holes. I using the radiator i have to keep costs down. Ive found out i ordered the wrong brake hoses so correct ones have been ordered! Thanks for your comments.
The brake lines might have changed when they swapped to 12" wheels as the front drum became a Mini unit
Interesting! Could you nip under the back of yours and tell me whats fitted 🤣
With respect to your closing question...You should do more of what interests you. Less of what interests others. It’s your channel...You’ll soon tire of it, if yer pursuing someone else’s interests. Of course it’s entirely up to you in the end. Thx for the interesting content. Cheers 👍
Tbh I appreciate the feedback, the Channel was just because I was doing the work anyways, the cars are all mine and all to be done. This just documents the journey. I might do the odd thing that people want but fundermentally its a man in a shed with no time trying to rebuild 20 cars 🤣 time I have to edit videos comes out of the hours I should be sleeping.