40 GALLON ELECTRIC WATER HEATER NO HOT WATER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- 40 GALLON ELECTRIC WATER HEATER NO PRODUCING ANY HOT WATER I FOUND A FEW ISSUES AND FIXED THEM BOTH ELEMENTS ARE WORKING NOW . WIRING DIAGRAM OF COMPONENTS AND PROPER WIRING SHOWN IN VIDEO
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I want to thank you Steve for having this TH-cam channel. I really enjoy your videos. I learn from you I got a few laughs from you so thank you so much
Glad to hear it
I like to take an amp draw on the element when it has power, it will tell you if it is heating and not just power on the element. Power can be at the element and it may or may not be drawing amps.
@26:58 School is in session boys and girls. Love this part. Nice job Steve.
We need more school sessions on wiring from this guy.
I know for sure I need some on gas boilers
Thanks for another plumbing adventure Steve!👍 If you ever have a real stubborn element, get a 2 1/4" (I think) 1/2" drive socket. Put it on a belt sander or grinder to put a perfectly flat face on the lip of the socket. Now a 1/2" breaker bar or impact driver does the job. I learned this from another plumber years ago, and it works well.
Steve sometimes ohms on those elements will show resistance but not carry load I try using clamp on side of meter and probe one lead at a time to element to see if amps are being pulled....been tricked before by ohms
Best test is under load,I've seen alot of them read continuity but then no draw!
You can change the bottom element without draining. Turn off the cold, relieve pressure by cracking a faucet for a second then closing. Prep the new element for install and do a quickie on the fly. May only lose a pint or less. The vacuum holds the water in so you don’t have a gusha momma.
Good tip!
He understands the concept of vacuum and has utilized it extensively on other jobs with both water and fuel oil issues; with fuel oil having the potential for a real mess if too slow. I'm weak on mind reading so I won't proffer a guess as to why he didn't take advantage of it here.
Excellent diagnosis and repair Steve, thanks for sharing! Dave in RI
HWT looks new, and it already failed, that blows. At least it's fixed, and hot water feels so good, Great job Steve.
Manufactures defect. Warranty?
Steve's a good man👍! Sharing his knowledge and skills like this.
A dual-element water heater uses two heating elements controlled by two separate thermostats. The upper element heats the upper portion of the water column. When it reaches a specified temperature, Rheem notes that it shuts off, and the lower heating element takes over, heating the rest of the water.
yea, that sounds correct. Here in TX I have worked on several, and the two elements are never on at the same time.
Most water heaters will come wired and installed for non-simultaneous heating. But they can all be wired for simultaneous. The only thing you need to watch out for is breaker and wire size and you'll need to swap out the aquastat on the lower element for one with ECO.
@@throttlebottle5906 the safety high limit? is this something that resets its self or a manual reset is needed? I've noticed a usually red button on the upper control module is this what you're talking about?
@@MikeSmith-ch7jv Yes, that was the first thing Steve checked. It cuts out at 180 F I think and requires manual reset. It should only trip if the thermostats on the elements are stuck closed so not a self-correcting fault.
Sure sounds simple the way you explain it. Always learn something watching you work. Thanks Steve!
Nice job, Steve! It could be that the lower element shorted out and burned up the control switch. Give Molly some pets for me.
Good repair Steve. From a U.K. perspective the control logic just seems a bit odd. Surely the top element should come on first so that some hot water is available quickly, then when the top thermostat is satisfied, control should switch to lower element. The control should always give preference to flipping back to upper if it’s thermostat calls for heat.
Add it again Steve ! Breaker Breaker 19 Good Buddy! Boca Raton, Florida
Nice explanation on water heaters Steve.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great trouble shooting and repair Steve! Most plumbers would just replace the hot water heater because of the time that took and the high labor they charge!
I bent 2 of them cheap metal wrenches to remove elements so I bought a 1-1/2 socket with 1/2" drive and finally got it loose with a pipe for leverage.
The theory of operation for a duel element electric water heater is as follows: Cold water enters the water heater and sent to the bottom of the tank through a dip tube forcing it to pass both heating elements before leaving at the top of the tank as hot water. Since the water is leaving from the top of the tank, the upper thermostat has priority for heating. Power enters the high limit and goes to the upper thermostat. From the high limit 120v is sent to one side of both the upper and lower heating element. The other 120v is sent to the upper thermostat. If the water temp leaving the tank is not at desired temp, the upper thermostat sends power to the upper element. Once the upper thermostat is satisfied, it turns of power to the upper element and redirect power to the lower thermostat. If the water temp at the lower thermostat is below desired temp, then the lower thermostat sends power to the lower heating element until the lower thermostat is satisfied. Both heating elements never operate at the same time.
Testing upper heating element: Verify there's 240v leaving the high limit. Check for 240v at the upper element being tested. If the thermostat is satisfied, there will not be 240v. turn up the upper thermostat till it clicks, there should be 240v at upper element. If not, replace upper thermostat with high limit. If you have a break in the heating element, the water completing the path of the terminals of the element can give a false ohms reading. If there's 240v at element, use a clamp on amp meter to check for proper reading of element.
Testing lower heating element: test for 240v at lower element. If not present, check if upper thermostat is calling and turn it down til it clicks and send sends power to lower thermostat. If it does not send power to lower thermostat and upper is satisfied, replace upper thermostat. After verifying there's 240v to lower thermostat, turn up lower thermostat till it clicks. Check for 240v at lower element. If 240v is not present, replace lower thermostat. if 240v is present, use clamp on amp meter for proper reading. If no amps, replace element.
Hello.
Perhaps you should get your own channel?
I never knew that it only heat's one element at a time , good explaining Steve !
Two 4500 watt elements on at the same time would exceed the current rating of the (generally) 30 amp circuit breaker.
Steve, some how I was thinking the top element heats first, then the lower one. Hot water being lighter than cold water. Please correct me if I am in error. Thanks guy, I enjoy your jobs you share on videos.
Who was killing the cats at the end good lord 🤣😂
One technician on duty , Miracles daily .
Great job like all ways ( Steven )
Hi Steve breaker 1-9 from west Alabama peace and love
I just put one of these in Christmas time, there made by Rheem ( GE if memory serves me correct) they also have a 9 yr warranty. The brand I have is Rheem (same as ruud) and look identical!!
I had a good experience with a Whirlpool 30 gal. electric that I got from Lowes and installed, myself. It lasted at least 15 years. All I did was flush it each Fall.
I had asked the Lowes guy about sealant for the sacrificial rod. (If I removed it as per the instructions a year or so later to check it). He advised me not to bother with it. He said: "You will be able to get it out...but you probably won`t be able to get it to stop leaking after you replace it." I took his advice, but I suspect that this would apply more to high city water pressures than in the case of a rural well like i had.
Still calling 240 220 even when the meter reads 240. Not been 220 since the 80's. Might find some really old homes with old transformers that are 220-230, but not at all the norm or the spec anymore. People in Europe keep on saying the US has 110 as well. Just not the case. Yes it's a pet peeve of mine.
Thank you Steve for the
That sucks looks like a new heater nice job Steve
I had an old sears kenmore 80 gal in a multifamily building i owned . It was in the building when i bought it 18 years ago. Had a dogs life with 8 units and 2 washers pulling out of it. I replaced the elements one time with stainless units as one blew. still running today. No crap controllers (save the whales ) etc.
Nice job Steve! 👍👍
I did a job one time where the owner of the salon had wired the water heater (240v) with 120v. The water would get warm over time but never worked correctly till we rewired it..
Those electric water heater controls can be a pain in the rear when they intermittently fail. It will start working when you adjust the thermostat but will fail again a couple days later.
When they start getting unreliable and need frequent fixes, pull the whole can and grab a new one.
Nice 👍 that one was fun but you got it.! ✌️
They probably powered up the elements before adding water.
If that happens an element will "go-out with a BANG!"... says my heater manual.
@@craigharding475 maybe it was partially submerged?
Who knows. It sounds real screwy for a new unit to fail so quickly.
Maybe they over current to the element welded the contacts in place of the controller?
Just tossing ideas out there.
@@goalie2998 Thanks, I find that truth CAN be stranger than fiction. Toss-in Murphy`s Law and the strangest things can happen. Even one squirrel can knock-out power to an entire community. I worry about power surges as well!
10 4 good buddy. Newnan, GA plumber over...
I replaced the water heater in my Mom's house after the old one started leaking. Went back with a countertop unit because it sits right next to the washer and dryer at the side entrance so it all looks the same. Those old countertop units seen to last forever. I know of one that has still been going since 1957.
Nice fix Steve
Another great Job done Steve good explanation of the wiring?
Great Job Steve..
I worked for an Electrician for about a year and We did some work at Our Mall Here near Asheboro North Carolina. The People that put the water heater in, had put the water heater in and they were running a 240 volt water heater on a Single 208 breaker. They said it worked for something like 8 years like that.
Will work fine like that, you just won’t get the full 4500 watts per element so it will take slightly longer to heat the water to temp.
@corey Babcock If you have a 120 / 208 Volt 3 Phase panel like at my workplace, they have no choice but to connect the 240 Volt water heater to 208 Volts. It works fine. Notice even though Steve's meter read 244, the schematic showed 240, and Steve wrote 240 on the service tag, he was endlessly calling it 220, which is right in the middle.
Looks like that lower element might have had an arcing solder connection when it heated up. So good all around to change it.
I figure the lower element lost continuity and failed. This caused all the heating to be done my the top element which caused the control to cycle on-off excessively and eventually wore out the control. Does this sound correct?
Great Video
it's the fifth element :))
would like to see your supply house characters, but you seem to always have parts on board the truck.
I bought my Mom a 'State" 50 gal elect. tank I paid the same price as big box tank .Every time check a PRV the dam thing will leak .Seems like the same thing goes out the the control or the element .
im a little confused by this. shouldn't the element read OL if it has melted and separated? unless the ohms are just nowhere near their expected range and the thing fused together
Over here we get cheaper electricity for water heating during the night so the grid only supplies voltage during off peak hours. If you have a twin element the top element is charged at full rate and is a boost if you run out of hot water in the daytime. Most people only have a single element with off peak power
Good job.
Lightning fry it much?
Remember, hot water tanks have 110V STANDING, before the breaker gets cut, so be careful there.
had a 80 gallon once the lower element got so cooked it warped COULD NOT get it out had to cut it leave part of it in. around here elements get loaded with calcium then takes longer to heat starts tripping the breaker and/or lower element buried in calcium scale can make a little shovel from 3/4" pvc but it's better to just replace the water heater. ive tried flushing water heaters does'nt seem to get scale out
Now that is a big water tower!
@6:21 in the video you can see the lower element is on before you changed it.
there is power going to it but not heating water ..
Best part of this video is you never hear Steve say "Hot water Heater" That always grinds my gears when customers say that. Its a "Water Heater" Mama, I thought maybe we would have to give that lower element the "GUNDY!" Sometimes they can be tough to get out.
4500W element at 240Vac should read around 12.8 ohms nominal resistance.
Surprised he drained it to change element. Should have been air locked. If element is blown it can still show resistance. Water in the tank.
It probably needs the Top Element too.
As much as You charge, it might have been cheaper to put them in a New Hot Water Heater.
THE ELEMENT LOOKS GOOD AND IT OHMED OUT!!!!
BUT THE ELEMENT HAS AN OHM RATING!!!!
What volt meter make/model is that? I like the swivel amp clamp. Looks like a Fieldpiece
www.tequipment.net/FieldpieceSC56.html
Test the elements for continuity.... the should be 12 -13 ohms
Those style smart heaters are absolute junk. I just replaced both elements and replaced the thermostats with standard old school style and did away with that controller. Gave my buddy issues for months. The controller was replaced twice before by the company and they wouldn't warranty a third.
What dont u have on the truck!!😁
Lots of guessing for a professional. I thought I was watching a home owner troubleshooting at first.
Orange romex or NM is 30 Amp
Do you just google the schematics?, or do you have a goto place for schematics?
Blow off tube for the TPV is missing.
125 is plenty. You don't want to scald the pilgrims.
I love my hot water. 154 at the kitchen sink baby!
You can check each element for continuity if element don’t beep on your tester you know that element is no good
Water heater elements are kind of tricky to test for continuity, if the calrod coil is actually busted open and exposed to the highly conductive water, which in some cases they are when they go bad, then your meter could backfeed on the water, giving you a false reading that the element is good, checking amp draw to the element is an another way you test to see if it's bad, and get around that problem.
That control was probably out for a while causing the lower element to give up the ghost as it was trying to heat the whole tank
usually the top control has to be satisfied at set temp before it will power up lower .so it throw me off power going to lower element .it might had something to do with power lights on from control ..
I think the lower element manufacturer weld to the wire connection was poor and finally gave up causing sparks and affected the controller to give up. Hi Steve, another good vlog.
Id like to get one of those briefcases is it from the movie twins with devil ... Lol
Devito
Vacuum breaker don’t have that code in n.y expansion tank is code
1:12 . . . Lot of water there, mama.
It sounds like those kids in the background made racket the whole time. I guess those daycare workers must earn every dime they charge.
The water heater pressure relief valve with no pipe extending over and down safely to the floor seemed strange. Also, the premature heater failure. It looked like the MAINTENANCE GUY for the center isn`t so skilled and may have been the cause.
Elements don’t ride in trucks very well
rudd rymes with pud!
The relief valve was'nt piped down to the floor
Both elements won't come on together
“We got no powaaaa”
Pretty thin wires for 4500 watts !!
seems like 99% of the add's do not have white actor's in the last months. let's be CORRECT!
And they are all light in the loafers soys.
Boy, that "Diesel MONSTOR", is "NOISY", ! Get a "FORD" !
now thats a really rude hotwaterless tank what a shitshow lol
Probably almost as cheap to just replace the water heater.
Just FYI u can check amp draw on the heat element also with voltage... gotta love the hug a tree save the world bullshit equipment
Yeah how water heaters can be tricky
Just tell them it is a cold water heater.
0:50 Toyota Right Break Light broken.
Breaker breaker 19 lol
What kind of a crack pot uses electricity to heat water unless they are off grid solar entirely and looking for a heat sink. If that was the case it wouldn't be AC 220.
You do realize that NG pipes don't run everywhere and propane is as much or more expensive than electricity in most areas?
@@jkbrown5496 I'm sure in some areas but the fact is over 70% of energy is lost when electricity is produced from fuel. That means it takes at least 3 times more fuel to make hot water from fuel if you first convert it to electricity. It's highly wasteful is my point.
Wow brand new and a p.o.s already. Won't be buying any from that maker. Probably costed $300 or more to fix it and it's still new
Electric water heaters use a lot of electricity Takes too long to heat the water they are a pain in the ass
Steve replacing parts getting old
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
shes a crusty one mama
Lol.
Shit show Steve! You did not do the proper check….12 ohms on the elements, you did not do a continuity check on the elements and I heard the upper thermostat click when you first pushed the red reset button….you knew it was the upper thermo from the get go!
Second comment
They make you have vacuum breakers but no grounding kit or dielectric unions?🤔
Stay safe.
Retired keyboard super tech.🍇🏌🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃
Wear your safety glasses.
tank has dielectric nipples .. why use unions ??
@@stevenlavimoniere galvanic corrosion.
Helps retard the process.
Also in jUrzy some townships require it along with the purple crap on PVC
@@stevenlavimoniere and every township requires a grounding kit(gas or electric)
@@justwondering4342one of them is a wall-rich kit and it has 6 gauge.
@@justwondering4342 I see where Steve is they don't require purple cleaner these ass*hol*s want to see purple on PVC
Or you fail & nothing less than 4"smoke pipe.