fantastic video. i looked at so many petcock repair videos and yours is the ONLY one that showed what to do and how to remove AND replace that odd diaphram assembly...also i noticed how tight that front valve selector o ring had to be when you wiggled it into the housing. and you showed the importance of keeping that diaphram assembly CLEAN when reassembling it. so many to the point things totally missing on all other posts. yours is the best and only really useful petcock repair video thanks a billion. i am GLAD to subscribe.
Great video. Last summer my KLR's petcock failed in the exact same way. It was squirting fuel from the petcock just you show in the video. So I was riding and all of a sudden I smell gas. I pull over to the side of the road and shut the bike off. Everything looked fine. It was hot outside and the gas must have evaporated quickly. So I started it up and continued on my way home. Then I smell gas again. I look down and see that the side stand switch cover is wet with gas on it. So I pull over and don't stop the engine, and then I could see the gas squirting out. I decided to replace the petcock with a non-vacuum operated one.
Nice touch, oil for the control before assembly, one thing that bit me was the tank dampers, one disappeared somehow ended up ordering one and now they are tacked with silicone in place!
The spilling of fuel out of my petcock just started. Was talking with the maintenance guy at work and he is thinking a similar thought as mine. We are thinking that the ethanol based fuels are eating away the insides of our bikes.
I just had that leak in the middle of Canada on a Sunday during an 11,000 mile trip. No parts. So I pulled into a Canadian Tire, removed the fuel tank and disassembled the diaphragm section of the petcock. removed the plastic piece and took the two gaskets and carefully cut out the plunger and the center section of the gaskets. I reinstalled the gaskets WITHOUT the plastic piece and voila I was back on the road in 2 1/2 hours with a manual petcock that no longer leaked until I finished my trip. Just dont forget to turn it off when you stop. I'm now rebuilding it but Kawasaki parts are expensive and the local dealer didn't offer a kit.. Buy the kit from RM ATV.
I recently bought a well used KLR that is running very rich and the fuel petcock might be the problem. Either that or the previous owner botched the jet kit size. I’m getting 22 MPG and no choke is needed for cold starts. I already turned in the air fuel screw. I’m grateful for any qualified thoughts.
My petcock did NOT have an O-ring on the lever. When I installed the O-ring, I could not turn the valve by hand. Should I leave it out or lubricate it? It was very hard to install, not as easy as the video.
The first link in the description will take you to a page where you can see the parts and tools used in this video! We used the All Balls Fuel Petcock Rebuild Kit for this KLR. Thank you for watching!
I have a 2004 Kawasaki kfx 700 on the diaphragm through the vent once I turn the key on and gas starts coming through it starts squirting throught the vent hole. What could it be? Or why?
Love the video! My 07 KLR is allowing fuel to pass in the on position without the engine running. My engine is also running rough, are the two related. I was thinking that the diaphragm could be leaking and giving me a vacuum leak, but the engine seems to be idling smooth. Idle speed is set to about 1000 RPM, too fast. The roughness is in the middle of the throttle range. I have just cleaned the carb and the only thing that was different than the videos, was my air/fuel mixture screw was about 2 and 1/8 turns out which seems richer than ones in the discussion. Any help is greatly appreciated.
A failed petcock can be very bad. Check your oil right now, smell the oil fill cap to see if it smells like gasoline. If it does you have likely done some damage to your engine. Drain your oil and check for metal in it and the filter.
I have a 2012 KLR650 I have run out of gas twice at approximately 170 miles then I switch to reserve and the bike will not run or start I can hear gas sloshing around in the tank but bike will not run I filled it up and the bike will start and run in the reserve position but for whatever reason when I run out of gas with the valve in the on position and then switch to reserve it does not work any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Think you’ll find the screw heads are Not Philips but they are JIS and that’s why they get all chewed up!, it may look like a Philips but it ain’t, a JIS head has got a single dot stamped into it to indicate this! You would have thought he should know this and have the right JIS screwdrivers for a professional looking outfit ( all Japanese vehicles use JIS and not Philips)
I bought a KLR so I could do this work myself. This video is exactly what I need!
fantastic video. i looked at so many petcock repair videos and yours is the ONLY one that showed what to do and how to remove AND replace that odd diaphram assembly...also i noticed how tight that front valve selector o ring had to be when you wiggled it into the housing. and you showed the importance of keeping that diaphram assembly CLEAN when reassembling it. so many to the point things totally missing on all other posts. yours is the best and only really useful petcock repair video thanks a billion. i am GLAD to subscribe.
Great video. Last summer my KLR's petcock failed in the exact same way. It was squirting fuel from the petcock just you show in the video. So I was riding and all of a sudden I smell gas. I pull over to the side of the road and shut the bike off. Everything looked fine. It was hot outside and the gas must have evaporated quickly. So I started it up and continued on my way home. Then I smell gas again. I look down and see that the side stand switch cover is wet with gas on it. So I pull over and don't stop the engine, and then I could see the gas squirting out. I decided to replace the petcock with a non-vacuum operated one.
Ninja 500r sat for 8 years. Same spray happening and this will fix it, thanks great video
Thanks for the helpful vid, I couldn't figure how to fit the new diaphragm onto the plastic square, it seems so obvious once you know how
Doing my 95 Vulcan 800 this weekend. Thanx 🍻
Nice touch, oil for the control before assembly, one thing that bit me was the tank dampers, one disappeared somehow ended up ordering one and now they are tacked with silicone in place!
The spilling of fuel out of my petcock just started. Was talking with the maintenance guy at work and he is thinking a similar thought as mine.
We are thinking that the ethanol based fuels are eating away the insides of our bikes.
I just had that leak in the middle of Canada on a Sunday during an 11,000 mile trip. No parts. So I pulled into a Canadian Tire, removed the fuel tank and disassembled the diaphragm section of the petcock. removed the plastic piece and took the two gaskets and carefully cut out the plunger and the center section of the gaskets. I reinstalled the gaskets WITHOUT the plastic piece and voila I was back on the road in 2 1/2 hours with a manual petcock that no longer leaked until I finished my trip. Just dont forget to turn it off when you stop. I'm now rebuilding it but Kawasaki parts are expensive and the local dealer didn't offer a kit.. Buy the kit from RM ATV.
PS. I'm told to do this every 7,000 miles no matter what.
Fuel screens appear to not be available separately. Great video
Thank you for this. I don't have a KLR, but the assembly is the same for other carb Kawasaki's.
yamaha xj900
At 3:55. The on/off rubber plate (with 4 holes) has 2 different faces/sides. Which side should we place inside/outside?
Thank you. You saved me time and money!
Glad I could help! -Charles
I recently bought a well used KLR that is running very rich and the fuel petcock might be the problem. Either that or the previous owner botched the jet kit size. I’m getting 22 MPG and no choke is needed for cold starts. I already turned in the air fuel screw. I’m grateful for any qualified thoughts.
Can you please show or explain which hose goes where on the carb..vacuum and fuel. Thanks
Profi Praca vaše videa pomôžu moc ludom Ďakujeme 👍👍👍
Great and clean job. Fantastic!
I had the all balls rebuilding kit and wondered where the extra o ring was for thanks just extra
Were can I get inlet filters? On the top of the petcock
My petcock did NOT have an O-ring on the lever. When I installed the O-ring, I could not turn the valve by hand. Should I leave it out or lubricate it? It was very hard to install, not as easy as the video.
Thanks for the helpful video guys. I will do doing this on my VN750 in a few days!
Great! Can you help me find the rebuild kit please. Don't see it on RM ATV MC. Thanks
The first link in the description will take you to a page where you can see the parts and tools used in this video! We used the All Balls Fuel Petcock Rebuild Kit for this KLR.
Thank you for watching!
I have a 2004 Kawasaki kfx 700 on the diaphragm through the vent once I turn the key on and gas starts coming through it starts squirting throught the vent hole. What could it be? Or why?
Are the fuel screen, replaceable? where con I Buy?
The fuel screens on the petcock are built-in and not replaceable.
If the engine doesn’t die after 12 miles with the petcock off, does that mean it needs a rebuild?
Love the video! My 07 KLR is allowing fuel to pass in the on position without the engine running. My engine is also running rough, are the two related. I was thinking that the diaphragm could be leaking and giving me a vacuum leak, but the engine seems to be idling smooth. Idle speed is set to about 1000 RPM, too fast. The roughness is in the middle of the throttle range. I have just cleaned the carb and the only thing that was different than the videos, was my air/fuel mixture screw was about 2 and 1/8 turns out which seems richer than ones in the discussion. Any help is greatly appreciated.
A failed petcock can be very bad. Check your oil right now, smell the oil fill cap to see if it smells like gasoline. If it does you have likely done some damage to your engine. Drain your oil and check for metal in it and the filter.
ZG1000 too
Did RM change name to 3D Cycle Parts?
No, we did not.
I have a 2012 KLR650 I have run out of gas twice at approximately 170 miles then I switch to reserve and the bike will not run or start I can hear gas sloshing around in the tank but bike will not run I filled it up and the bike will start and run in the reserve position but for whatever reason when I run out of gas with the valve in the on position and then switch to reserve it does not work any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
jglassman1122: I experienced the same thing that you describe. My Petcock eventually failed. You should probably rebuild the petcock.
@@edfeten4724 I ended up just buying a new petcock and it fixed the problem but whats strange is looking at the old petcock nothing looks wrong
I don’t even have a KLR I just wanted to watch this
Think you’ll find the screw heads are Not Philips but they are JIS and that’s why they get all chewed up!, it may look like a Philips but it ain’t, a JIS head has got a single dot stamped into it to indicate this! You would have thought he should know this and have the right JIS screwdrivers for a professional looking outfit ( all Japanese vehicles use JIS and not Philips)
sorry is this donut media? that looks like donut media thing
Thanks