I've also ventured into card stock modeling. So far I've made 3 card stock models and learned to do relief on a rather flat model. Definitely a learning experience. One card stock model I ended up completely covering it with weathered wood (it was a loading dock in HO scale). I'd previously built one from wood for O scale. Cheers - TN
I've very much enjoyed your tutorials! I built a lot of balsa models in Architecture school 25 years ago. I've been longing to get back into it and model railroading is the perfect environment. Especially because I'm no longer trying to impress a bunch of snooty scholars. Just family, and they are the only ones who really matter... and they love my creations. As for gluing the roof purlins, I would just lean your model over about 45 degrees so the edges of the rafters and gable-end of the walls is horizontal. Then you don't have to take time to hold them in place, or choose a tackier glue etc.
A small building like this is an easy way to begin scratchbuilding. Just take your time and do the best you can. All of us started scratch building one structure.
I know that you're using Testors enamel paint; can you use turpentine as a thinner or should it be lacquer thinner? In 1970 I had just graduated from Paris Island and a year later I was in Vietnam. Yeah, I'm a Marine. I'm building a small structure out of an old "Old Spice" redwood box the after shave came in. It has dovetailed ends & I really hate to cover it up with brick card stock. I've already cut a door into it and 4 or 5 windows will be added. I'm thinking of a corrugated roof. However, I do like the look of your tar mopped roof. I'm gonna make a smoke jack out of some old pieces of sprue I've got left over from past builds. How about using a bread tie for flashing after trimming it; I think they're made from styrene or ABS. For signs, I usually scrape the back with my A-proxo knife to remove material to thin it so it looks old and weathered. It's kinda like putting MicroSol over a decal to make it conform to the surface. I'd appreciate it if you'd send me that building for my layout, LOL! I've got to find my architectural scales I used when I went to Southern Tech along with my french curves, protractors and compasses. I studied civil engineering when I went to college. What are the dimensions of your floor decking? Looks like the same as the sub roof. Guess I could use popsicle sticks with the ends cut off. I'll just have to remember to stagger the joints. I've seen other modelers use shoe dye and alcohol for stain. I use acrylic paint dissolved in alcohol and it works just as well as any other stains I've seen. I also have several quarts of real wood stain, i.e., weathered oak, special walnut and maple stains. I've used all of it for different projects. Cheers - TN
I got me a tooth paste squeezer I now use for corrugated steel in O scale. I save my beer cans and put them through the squeezer and it makes perfect corrugated steel for 0 scale. For HO scale corrugated steel, I got a styrene sheet of .040 spacing corrugated steel and use it as a mold. I put a very liberal amount of Elmer's glue on top and wait for it to dry. Then I apply another layer of Elmer's glue on top of it and wait for it to dry. Then I CAREFULLY peel off the glue layer and glue it to a piece of card stock. I paint it silver or grey and weather it with my rust powder I make from 0000 steel wool soaked in vinegar and dried in a flat pan. I then pulverize the iron oxide with a single edged razor blade and store it in snuff tins. Looks like real rust 'cause it's real rust. I've learned my lesson about removable roofs. It's a very wise decision to make a removable roof for future added interior detail. When using ACC glue (super glue) it helps to blow on the joint as you glue it as the moisture from your breath helps to set the glue. A little tip I learned from another modeler. For a quicker set of ACC use an accelerator which I have a big ole bottle. I like your modified sewing needle for applying ACC. Gonna have to make me one now. How thin is that wood next to the ridge pole? What are the dimensions of the shake shingles you're using? My favorite roof is corrugated steel highly weathered with little gouges and frayed ends. I've seen that trick with the VHS tape for weights but using 1-2-3 blocks instead. I love the VHS tapes 'cause the damn post office lost my order of 1-2-3 blocks. Cheers - TN
Found it, yes, thank you for amazing tutorials. You don't need anything else.
I've also ventured into card stock modeling. So far I've made 3 card stock models and learned to do relief on a rather flat model. Definitely a learning experience. One card stock model I ended up completely covering it with weathered wood (it was a loading dock in HO scale). I'd previously built one from wood for O scale. Cheers - TN
I've very much enjoyed your tutorials! I built a lot of balsa models in Architecture school 25 years ago. I've been longing to get back into it and model railroading is the perfect environment. Especially because I'm no longer trying to impress a bunch of snooty scholars. Just family, and they are the only ones who really matter... and they love my creations.
As for gluing the roof purlins, I would just lean your model over about 45 degrees so the edges of the rafters and gable-end of the walls is horizontal. Then you don't have to take time to hold them in place, or choose a tackier glue etc.
A small building like this is an easy way to begin scratchbuilding. Just take your time and do the best you can. All of us started scratch building one structure.
Love the detail, will try to do more of such things, thanks much for sharing. 😎
I really like Jason Jensen's work!
So relaxing to view these vids. 👍
I know that you're using Testors enamel paint; can you use turpentine as a thinner or should it be lacquer thinner? In 1970 I had just graduated from Paris Island and a year later I was in Vietnam. Yeah, I'm a Marine. I'm building a small structure out of an old "Old Spice" redwood box the after shave came in. It has dovetailed ends & I really hate to cover it up with brick card stock. I've already cut a door into it and 4 or 5 windows will be added. I'm thinking of a corrugated roof. However, I do like the look of your tar mopped roof. I'm gonna make a smoke jack out of some old pieces of sprue I've got left over from past builds. How about using a bread tie for flashing after trimming it; I think they're made from styrene or ABS. For signs, I usually scrape the back with my A-proxo knife to remove material to thin it so it looks old and weathered. It's kinda like putting MicroSol over a decal to make it conform to the surface. I'd appreciate it if you'd send me that building for my layout, LOL! I've got to find my architectural scales I used when I went to Southern Tech along with my french curves, protractors and compasses. I studied civil engineering when I went to college. What are the dimensions of your floor decking? Looks like the same as the sub roof. Guess I could use popsicle sticks with the ends cut off. I'll just have to remember to stagger the joints. I've seen other modelers use shoe dye and alcohol for stain. I use acrylic paint dissolved in alcohol and it works just as well as any other stains I've seen. I also have several quarts of real wood stain, i.e., weathered oak, special walnut and maple stains. I've used all of it for different projects. Cheers - TN
I got me a tooth paste squeezer I now use for corrugated steel in O scale. I save my beer cans and put them through the squeezer and it makes perfect corrugated steel for 0 scale. For HO scale corrugated steel, I got a styrene sheet of .040 spacing corrugated steel and use it as a mold. I put a very liberal amount of Elmer's glue on top and wait for it to dry. Then I apply another layer of Elmer's glue on top of it and wait for it to dry. Then I CAREFULLY peel off the glue layer and glue it to a piece of card stock. I paint it silver or grey and weather it with my rust powder I make from 0000 steel wool soaked in vinegar and dried in a flat pan. I then pulverize the iron oxide with a single edged razor blade and store it in snuff tins. Looks like real rust 'cause it's real rust.
I've learned my lesson about removable roofs. It's a very wise decision to make a removable roof for future added interior detail. When using ACC glue (super glue) it helps to blow on the joint as you glue it as the moisture from your breath helps to set the glue. A little tip I learned from another modeler. For a quicker set of ACC use an accelerator which I have a big ole bottle. I like your modified sewing needle for applying ACC. Gonna have to make me one now. How thin is that wood next to the ridge pole? What are the dimensions of the shake shingles you're using? My favorite roof is corrugated steel highly weathered with little gouges and frayed ends. I've seen that trick with the VHS tape for weights but using 1-2-3 blocks instead. I love the VHS tapes 'cause the damn post office lost my order of 1-2-3 blocks.
Cheers - TN
I've always been intimidated by scratchbuilding and never tried because of it