Don't know why so many of you guys are clowning on the man. His car is clean and makes more power than a stock mach 1. And could potentially be cheaper than a clean mach 1. Sounds good and that's reliable NA power without doing a motor swap. Solid build.
Even as an SN95 owner, the Mach 1s aren't a good power benchmark lol. Nearly the fastest trim you could get on these cars and still only on par with a regular Chevy SS of the same decade
@@foreverdrivin6725 I don’t agree there. My 2001 GT stock went 13.60’s @ 100 flat. Much of what happens to the GT’s are guys rev them to the limiter, and the PI’s are done at 5700. They loose power after that pretty substantially. So just flat foot shifting at 5700 got me 13.60’s at Darlington. The car wasn’t a freak, it put down the standard 230ish stock. I raced plenty of Camaros and Trans Ams when it was stock and ran similar times give or take a tenth depending on who was driving. I could get 13.20’s in a stock Mach1 manual. The autos had the slush box in them and were slower by a lot
@@gr8whitestang613 Yeah those older slush boxes are not optimal lol. Need manuals in older cars for speed. You're running 13.6s on stock? Most stock 3Vs run 13.5s at absolute best, with an extra 40-60hp so idk if you're exaggerating or if you're just one hell of a driver! Get yourself in a 3V and maybe do a comparison 1/4th lol
I would say this is a respectable build for someone who isn't too deep into the SN95s. No over the top stuff like fuel systems, boost, ported heads, tubular components, etc, just easy to do bolt ons. And while it is very true that the build isn't really anything special, it is clean and it does what you want it to do. Good job for just being content with what you wanted!
Sweet stang dude! I love my 02 GT I just bought. Super clean and mostly stock, but I look forward to building it, and I love hearing about other new edge builds.
Great car and amazing video. You provided all the information I was hoping for and it was right to the point. I appreciate your video a whole lot. Thanks so much for sharing with us!
Nice ride man. I have an 03 GT 5 speed. Installed new heads last year and had the cats cut out. These cars breath so much better without cat converters. I live in east Tennessee and we don't have inspections. The 5 speed GTs are so much fun to drive. Rock on man.
Thanks man! Yeah I live in Maine so I need cats. Also if I took them out I would need to wear earplugs, its already super loud as is 😂 the Borla ATAKs are no joke
That was super good for your first vlog! I love the way you explain things! You seem to have a good amount of knowledge on modding! I currently own a 2003 GT in "True Blue".
He doesn’t have good knowledge on his car lol. He said that’s an sn95 which I here made between 1994-98 and he says his is a 02 which is a new edge, which was made between 99-04 and makes more power and looks better. Should you really be moding you car if you don’t even know the right name?
Awesome new edge build bro i have a 2002 New Edge V6 with K&N cold air intake upgrade in a Zink Yellow/black color it does 200 hp its my daily mustang n a 2015 S550 2.3 litter Ecoboost with Roush cold air intake upgrade in a black color it does 325 hp I drive it once in a while
For anyone wondering, it's a lot cheaper to grab an on3 turbo kit, and you can safely make 400-450 at the wheels as long as your tuner keeps the torque in check. Run 9lbs of boost, get your turbo noises, and gap stock s550 mustangs for $2500. 2v engines don't do well with bolt ons so just save your money. If you want N/A power, get a 4v or (Ford forgive me 😭) LS swap it.
@@sategllib2191 i mean, I wasn't really counting the tune and extra parts since you could dump money everywhere when making double the factory whp, but regardless my point still stands. You're better off spending 4k (or more, because more power means more failure points) on a turbo setup, rather then 4k on bolt ons that you'll be lucky to see anywhere near 300 whp from. Right?
@@blkspec9973 yeah, you could get 300 wheel with bolt ons, cams and npi pistons. But still gonna be damn near the cost of the turbo anyways in the end, unless you do some serious bargain and used market shopping. All just depend on what you want to do
Working on a 2v na build now. I’ve experimented with maf’s and an 86mm is better than the 80mm and 90mm. A ported crown Vic intake elbow is actually better than a trick flow. So far I’m still stock longblock with ported gt manifolds and a ported pi intake 75mm tb steeds pulleys 3.73’s with a 10” convertor. The 10” is 13 lbs lighter than a stock convertor and it made a lot of difference. It’s an 03 vic. I’m tuning with a delta sniper and those dudes make it easy to do. Ported heads and cams with more compression are next on the list. But there’s always something else getting wrote on the list to…
Damn dude, sounds like you’ve got quite the build goin on. I’m still waiting on my intake, ordered a trick flow back in March and it probably won’t get here till November haha. Heads and cams definitely make a huge difference, but I also just went built motor which made it a whole new animal. Got a couple videos on it if you want to check them out, still trying to get a dyno tune though
The majority of stangs with comp 270's run around 300rwhp, but with all the supporting mods, longtubes ect... I could see 320rwhp with supporting mods and a properly done valve job.
I plan on it! Just got a go pro and I’m working on building a PC to hopefully put together some decent videos. Should all be put together in a week or two
Yeah I thought about that but I read up on it and I guess the trick flow heads are only slightly better than the ported P.I. Heads, so it would be more cost effective for me to just port the heads I already have than to buy new ones
I’ve heard a lot of people say when they install under drive pulley’s the run into cooling issues. Installing a new water pump and thermostat seems to be the common fix.
That’s strange, never heard of that happening from the pulleys. My issue was that my fan fuse and startup sensor were both fried, must’ve happened well before I got the car cuz when I fixed them the fan was literally locked in place haha
Get a non pi 4.6, throw pi heads and stage 2 cam in it boom 100 he proven on a dyno. Just make sure the heads are ported and its got aftermarket valves unless you like clearance issues.
im running 320 whp, and 380 lbft. the key is gears and a proper intake, plus get your car tuned FOR YOUR PARTS. good tires help more than people think as well. it is not hard to make power out of these cars
If you have a 99-04, just swap in a coyote. If you use a gen 1 motor, you're looking at 400+ to the wheels for about $5500 total. For just a few grand and some elbow grease, you get a great motor that can be pushed hard.
Coyote 3-5k depending , control pack 1-2k , youll need to upgrade the transmission if you want longevity. Couple other things as well I believe. You make it seem as if its 5k and wham bam you can swap a coyote. Its easier in new edges, easiest if im remembering correctly, but its not a 5k in and out thing by any means. Better have at least 8k for parts alone and if you have 8k laying around just sell the new edge for 5-6k and buy a coyote car.
@@issasnipe8824 it could easily be done for 8k. You can get the tr3650 trans built for like a grand and it is good to go. I would get an f150 motor to save money and get a cj intake and l&m intake cams with the money you save from not getting a mustang engine and it would bring it up to mustang specs and beyond. The main difference in the f150 version is the intake manifold and intake cams so go ahead and upgrade those to better than stock mustang spec and you can make some good power. You could have a good gen 1 f150 motor with a ported cj and l&m intake only cams for 5 grand or less all in. That is a North of 450 rwhp setup all day regaurdless of fuel.
get a NPI bottom end with the PI heads, intake, and cams for more power than the PI engine. PI heads on the NPI block offer more power alone but with a slight bump in compression ratio.
If he has a perfectly functioning pi bottom end why would he buy a new block then take his entire engine apart just to gain a point of compression? Prob judt shave the heads get the same result
@@lollol-xp4mc its called being on a budget. you can pick up a full NPI block for about $100-$200 depending on location. The PI heads and intake on a NPI bottom usually net about 40-50hp more over the full PI combo. With turbos at 14.7PSI you can usually expect just under double horsepower of the NA config which would get you atleast that 50hp over a guy with PI bottom. All of that for $200. Yea shave the head and have a valve kiss the piston and have slight timing issues. And as far as taking the engine apart, thats part of the game when it comes to building power.
@@Chanesaw328 i don't think budget means the same thing to you and me. it doesnt matter who is doing the work or what you are working on, jus try doubling your horsepower without forced induction. Any NA motor with $5000 dumped into will never perform like that same motor with $2500 dumped into and a $2500 turbo kit. Anyone on a budget should be running turbos otherwise you are either wasting time or not being serious.
My father and I share the 2000 GT in my pfp. Previous owner installed a K&N CAI, Jegs long tubes (Don't know part #), an unknown x-pipe, and SLP Loudmouth Catback, along with a couple visual goodies like the Mach 1 chin/ grille delete. Never told us what it makes on the dyno, but did have it tuned. Sounds like a beast when you rev it out though.
I've had a 99 GT for two months and the guy I bought it from was a mechanic and he had put some exhaust and exterior mods on it but the engine is pretty much stock so I want to i n c r e a s e h o r s e p o w e r without spending toooo much
@@NitroTaki2002 Haha it's an automatic so no short throw for me. But I'm waiting to see if either the Borla Stinger catback or the Flowmaster American Thunder catback goes on sale this black friday/cyber monday.
Ditch those iridium Spark plugs for some brisk silver plugs a step colder. Iridium isn’t better cause it costs more. It just prevents the Karen’s from having to pay for service for 125k miles. For performance you want copper or silver.
That’s what’s up dude. Just ported my heads as well while the block was in the machine shop, interested to see how much of a difference it makes. Stock intake manifold for now tho
Quick question, is it better to buy a catback from borla than to have a muffler shop custom make the piping for the catback and weld in the borla mufflers? 🤔
I would say to buy the cat back, unless you’re looking to do something extra special like quad tips or something. If you want good work done it would probably end up being much more expensive than just buying it and having a shop throw it on
when you get the tune do you just go to a performance shop because my car already has a stage 2 tune from previous owner and been thinking about stage 3 and yes i’m installing headers soon so yea that’s why i’m asking is that ok?
I got mine tuned at a dyno tune shop when I got cams, but I’m sure you can go to any performance shop and get it tuned if you’re just doing headers for now. When I did headers I just ordered a bama tuner through AmericanMuscle and told them my specs, they sent me the handheld tuner with a custom tune loaded on it, but that’s all I had on the car at the time
What brand of spacers are you running on the rear wheels? I want to get some fo r my rear wheels too but many brands out there really suck and they end up breaking. BORA is good but they dont have the set up that I want. And have you had any problems with them? Nice New Edge man 👍
@@shawnlack1527 Non Intercooled/Conservative Tune, it could have been tuned to 425+...but the Mod Motors stock rods don't like 450+ hp! Besides 390rwhp is 170 over Stock RWHP (it is over a 75% increase)!
Yeah I got the beehive valve springs and retainers that were recommended to go with it. Also had a valve job done prior to the install cuz it had like 95,000 on it or somethin, and I recently had my heads ported
@@ajwiley1348 im currently having issues with my heads , apparently I have low compression on one of the heads , you think I should get them rebuilt and install beehive valve springs , retainers and do a cam job while im already in there?
Yeah you might as well, much easier to just do it all at once, it’ll save a bunch of time and money. And as far as the cam gears go, it was so long ago I can’t remember, but I’m pretty sure I did change to adjustable ones
I did not but I did have a valve job done just to have them fresh, don’t quote me on this but I believe these heads can support .550 lift cams, and these max it out
@@jaydenscott5028hey bro prob already solved this by now but I’m doing the stage 4 from comp cams (274s) and don’t need to do any notching or anything I think if you stay under the .500-.550 lift your good with any cam other than 278s but don’t quote me on that
I noticed when you revved or before you shifted, your rpms dropped really fast and you don’t hear that rev hang. Do you have a Restrictor plate on your iac or no? Sounds very healthy! Beautiful new edge man👍🏼
I don’t have a restrictor plate or anything, it usually depends on how I get on the throttle and I was in my neighborhood so I only gave it about half. Going to make another video soon where I really get on it
Thanks man! The only thing “illegal” on my car is the headlights because they’re tinted, and there’s no smog inspection in Maine, just need to have cats and mufflers which I have
The stock PI pistons have a small dish. Couple that with factory 530 lift and not to much worry. I had same cams in a flat top piston 4.6 that made considerably more at the tire. Just degree them in right.
@@joem3970 not sure how you have PTV contact on the edge of the piston. They are canted in the stock heads which cause the valve to contact closer to center if not timed right. The angle of the intake and exhaust ports have some bearing on the angle of the valves. I have smiley faced a few in my SOHC adventures, every one has been closer to center.
Still has the stock ratio which I believe is 3.27. Haven’t felt the need to change them, rips through gears as it is and already spins 1st/2nd with the cams
Oh, that’s awesome! I like knowing what ppl do with their SN95 and why. I’d think you’d need a shorter gear ratio w/ stage 3 cams. Guess not if it works. Thanks for the reply.
Haven’t had time to hit a strip yet, I work nights and weekends so it makes it hard to make it to any events, and the car has been down for the entire season this year
No issues in the few years I’ve been running them, changing my setup soon tho that should make it even safer... ported heads, Stroker kit, and a few other things
After I found out how much money I would have to pay for 300 hp I decided to go and buy a 2014 5.0 6speed and enjoy the best of both cars now I want a 2019 Mustang GT automatic soon
Haven’t been able to take it to the track yet because I work nights and weekends, but I plan on getting new tires over the winter and making time for it next spring
i love jdm cars always have and will but this car i have always wanted one as a kid hopefully i can get my hands on one of these in the near future for my first car. Any things to look out for these cars especially a 2004?
That’s what’s up man. Not really anything too special to look for unless you live up north, they’re pretty rust prone. There’s a huge aftermarket selection for these cars and a lot of people that know how to work on them and tune them, so as long as you have a clean body as a starting point, you should be fine
@@ajwiley1348 sweet thanks for the advice man i live in so cal so rust isn’t really a problem unless the car been park over grass for years but what mods would you recommend i do to the car first? or should i focus on better steering and handling then performance mods?
I personally would set it up with coilovers and wheels/ tires first, makes it look more aggressive and sets it up so it’s easier to handle more power. Then probably intake/full exhaust, then heads and cams. All up to what you’re goin for at first tho
They are so old at this point there is very few left… you just might be better off looking for something else. If you do get one it probably needs a whole new suspension. I mean everything.. control arms and all new bushings.. you’re talking $3000 to do that…
@@keithbellair9508 yeah i kinda came to this point already. I know a few of my neighbors that have them in pretty good/ decent condition but they wanted like 15k+ for it as much as i love the new edge mustangs i already bought my 2014 infiniti q60
Don’t see why not! Only thing that should be different is you will need to have your trans tuned as well to accommodate the extra hp, torque, and power ban
The dorman intake manifold NEVER came stock on any year mustang, it's a cheap replacement nothing more nothing less if you have one throw it in the trash and get a Ford PI replacement!
@@allenb61384 Facts. I had one that I planned on using on my 96 mustang pi swap, but ended up using a bullitt intake. I put it on my gfs Lincoln town car a few months ago because her intake was leaking and I already had it lying around. Its still going for now but it's garbage.
Not currently, I tried to make a video of it before I put the car away but the tires were too far gone so I just spun the whole time haha. Putting new tires on in the spring and I’ll try again
@@ajwiley1348 duh didnt open description because im a dumbass sorry... liked the vid have a 2000 gt new edge vert that im new to..drunk totaled my 2002 ws6 and while im rebuilding i picked up the mustang tho my backyard mechanic lost my only key and tried to fix it by buying a junkyard ignition out of who knows what and so my car wont start anymore..im sitting here looking at a chrome set of long tubes, programmer, and throttle body..car already had lower springs, american mustang red traction bars, and american mustang cai.. as it sit or wasb4 this key thing it would boil tires at a stomp of gas pedal but has the full pi winsor engine stock with a hole in muffler...thought it was a cat back nope..
@@beachsidebum Bet you loved that 2v sound..lol TrickFlow heads n cams with a stroker 5.0L kit should put you over 400whp, build that 2v.. Just to be clear, ws6 is a gm car??
@@beachsidebum I looked at a few built ones, they look 👀 nice.. Kinda rare to see a Chevy ls guy go from that to a 2v but welcome to the 2v world 🌎 man.. Love my lil workhorses..
Best way to do that would probably be either follow my route then add ported heads and intake manifold, or turn it into a stroker with forged internals. Or you could always just go the cheaper route and throw some forced induction at it early on, but that’s pretty dangerous with these stock internals
@@ajwiley1348 Nit trying to bash you man, but it is easy to manipulate dyno correction factors. I had the 270 AH Comp Cams in my GT as well. Factory PI lower, Accufab upper with 75mm TB, Mac LT’s, Bassanni catted X, Borla catback, ported factory MAF, Densecharger CAI, Steeda UD pullies, .30 over with flat top pistons, stock heads. This ended up with the motor being 12.5 :1 compression. Car put 330 down running out of injector, maybe 20 left on table, maybe. ProDyno in SC tuned the car. He has tuned plenty of cammed 2V cars and was a sponsor at Mustang week for years. Pretty standard to see 270ish on cammed cars with exhaust. 99% of the mod tuners with good reputations will tell you that you won’t break 300 without compression or cubes with our mods. Even at that, the factory plastic intake is a choke point, which is why Trickflow developed there own version of a Bullitt style intake. At 5700 the factory intake is done so even our cams weren’t fully benefitted with the factory intake. Just some info from a bunch of years messing with the mod motors. I have been through good tuners and shitters. There are definitely folks out there who will be you to get you money. But when the motor cracks up, they will take ZERO responsibility for a crap tune or crappy setup degree job on cams. That is why I learned to do as much as possible myself. And when I get something tuned, I am there watching what is going on with the AFR, CF, fuel table, spark table, etc.
Don't know why so many of you guys are clowning on the man. His car is clean and makes more power than a stock mach 1. And could potentially be cheaper than a clean mach 1. Sounds good and that's reliable NA power without doing a motor swap. Solid build.
Appreciate it man! Not many people can appreciate a clean “reliable” built car which is what I’m goin for
Even as an SN95 owner, the Mach 1s aren't a good power benchmark lol. Nearly the fastest trim you could get on these cars and still only on par with a regular Chevy SS of the same decade
@@foreverdrivin6725 I don’t agree there. My 2001 GT stock went 13.60’s @ 100 flat. Much of what happens to the GT’s are guys rev them to the limiter, and the PI’s are done at 5700. They loose power after that pretty substantially. So just flat foot shifting at 5700 got me 13.60’s at Darlington. The car wasn’t a freak, it put down the standard 230ish stock. I raced plenty of Camaros and Trans Ams when it was stock and ran similar times give or take a tenth depending on who was driving. I could get 13.20’s in a stock Mach1 manual. The autos had the slush box in them and were slower by a lot
@@gr8whitestang613 Yeah those older slush boxes are not optimal lol. Need manuals in older cars for speed. You're running 13.6s on stock? Most stock 3Vs run 13.5s at absolute best, with an extra 40-60hp so idk if you're exaggerating or if you're just one hell of a driver! Get yourself in a 3V and maybe do a comparison 1/4th lol
@@gr8whitestang613 Do you recommend changing the PI? If so which ones are best
Solid video. Can you make another and fill in the cost for each mod?
I would say this is a respectable build for someone who isn't too deep into the SN95s. No over the top stuff like fuel systems, boost, ported heads, tubular components, etc, just easy to do bolt ons. And while it is very true that the build isn't really anything special, it is clean and it does what you want it to do. Good job for just being content with what you wanted!
That grill alone adds about 40whp
Easily
Very tasteful mods and great work to the car. Keep up the effort on both the stang and channel (coming from a huge Fbody guy)!
This was a super helpful video! And damn, that sounds great too. Love that rasp. Nice car!
Sweet stang dude! I love my 02 GT I just bought. Super clean and mostly stock, but I look forward to building it, and I love hearing about other new edge builds.
Great car and amazing video. You provided all the information I was hoping for and it was right to the point. I appreciate your video a whole lot. Thanks so much for sharing with us!
Nice ride man. I have an 03 GT 5 speed. Installed new heads last year and had the cats cut out. These cars breath so much better without cat converters. I live in east Tennessee and we don't have inspections. The 5 speed GTs are so much fun to drive. Rock on man.
Thanks man! Yeah I live in Maine so I need cats. Also if I took them out I would need to wear earplugs, its already super loud as is 😂 the Borla ATAKs are no joke
Nice mods bro, good to know so when I get my 2001 Ford Mustang GT soon... I will follow suit!
That was super good for your first vlog! I love the way you explain things! You seem to have a good amount of knowledge on modding! I currently own a 2003 GT in "True Blue".
He doesn’t have good knowledge on his car lol. He said that’s an sn95 which I here made between 1994-98 and he says his is a 02 which is a new edge, which was made between 99-04 and makes more power and looks better. Should you really be moding you car if you don’t even know the right name?
@@thecoolestdude90 a new edge is an sn95 lol
@@luisuribe5432 yes technically they are all sn95 from 94-04 but the 99-04 are referred to as new edge.
Cool video, like the car. Keep it coming. Would’ve liked to see the dyno numbers though!
God yes hot! Also love the car. Doing a lot of mods to my car finally!!
Love the car bro and it sounds good
Awesome new edge build bro i have a 2002 New Edge V6 with K&N cold air intake upgrade in a Zink Yellow/black color it does 200 hp its my daily mustang n a 2015 S550 2.3 litter Ecoboost with Roush cold air intake upgrade in a black color it does 325 hp I drive it once in a while
Nice mustang. Keep up the good work
Nice car man! I got a supercharged 94 Cobra myself.
For anyone wondering, it's a lot cheaper to grab an on3 turbo kit, and you can safely make 400-450 at the wheels as long as your tuner keeps the torque in check. Run 9lbs of boost, get your turbo noises, and gap stock s550 mustangs for $2500. 2v engines don't do well with bolt ons so just save your money. If you want N/A power, get a 4v or (Ford forgive me 😭) LS swap it.
Costs more than $2500 for the turbo swap. Need a k member and a tune on top of the $2500. Close to $4000
@@sategllib2191 i mean, I wasn't really counting the tune and extra parts since you could dump money everywhere when making double the factory whp, but regardless my point still stands. You're better off spending 4k (or more, because more power means more failure points) on a turbo setup, rather then 4k on bolt ons that you'll be lucky to see anywhere near 300 whp from. Right?
@@blkspec9973 yeah, you could get 300 wheel with bolt ons, cams and npi pistons. But still gonna be damn near the cost of the turbo anyways in the end, unless you do some serious bargain and used market shopping. All just depend on what you want to do
Awesome bro I love it, I have a 2002 as well
solid power form a 2v. good tq numbers
Sounds mean big dawg 💪🏼🥵
300 is good for a n/a 2v. Love the car, I’m hoping to build mine to around 300 n/a
That’s whats up dude! Hoping mine will be around 400 when I’m done doing this next setup, this is taking forever tho haha
Nice build buddy👍
Good video even if it was your first time it was very informative and nice 2 valve makes me wanna get one even more.
Thanks man, I appreciate it! Workin on somethin else to get it to 400+, taking forever though, hope to have it done in the next couple weeks
Working on a 2v na build now. I’ve experimented with maf’s and an 86mm is better than the 80mm and 90mm. A ported crown Vic intake elbow is actually better than a trick flow. So far I’m still stock longblock with ported gt manifolds and a ported pi intake 75mm tb steeds pulleys 3.73’s with a 10” convertor. The 10” is 13 lbs lighter than a stock convertor and it made a lot of difference. It’s an 03 vic. I’m tuning with a delta sniper and those dudes make it easy to do. Ported heads and cams with more compression are next on the list. But there’s always something else getting wrote on the list to…
Damn dude, sounds like you’ve got quite the build goin on. I’m still waiting on my intake, ordered a trick flow back in March and it probably won’t get here till November haha. Heads and cams definitely make a huge difference, but I also just went built motor which made it a whole new animal. Got a couple videos on it if you want to check them out, still trying to get a dyno tune though
The majority of stangs with comp 270's run around 300rwhp, but with all the supporting mods, longtubes ect... I could see 320rwhp with supporting mods and a properly done valve job.
Put out more videos of your Stang bro💯 I have 2004 40th anniversary 5speed love to see different setups on the 2v
I plan on it! Just got a go pro and I’m working on building a PC to hopefully put together some decent videos. Should all be put together in a week or two
Really nice car I would recommend the trick flow twisted wedge heads over pi heads though. They really woke up my 96 gt .
Yeah I thought about that but I read up on it and I guess the trick flow heads are only slightly better than the ported P.I. Heads, so it would be more cost effective for me to just port the heads I already have than to buy new ones
Thousands dollars on mods, on my own 04 Mustang GT 4.6 auto. I decided to buy a 14 5.0 and enjoy the best of both cars and I am happy as hell
Okay nice car and ready for the world
Good video man, we’ll have to go for a rip sometime. Im in maine also!
I’ve heard a lot of people say when they install under drive pulley’s the run into cooling issues. Installing a new water pump and thermostat seems to be the common fix.
That’s strange, never heard of that happening from the pulleys. My issue was that my fan fuse and startup sensor were both fried, must’ve happened well before I got the car cuz when I fixed them the fan was literally locked in place haha
Ooh nice car!
Sounds about right, considering what was done.
What brand is that hood where did you get yours
Bad azz bro!!!
Get a non pi 4.6, throw pi heads and stage 2 cam in it boom 100 he proven on a dyno. Just make sure the heads are ported and its got aftermarket valves unless you like clearance issues.
im running 320 whp, and 380 lbft. the key is gears and a proper intake, plus get your car tuned FOR YOUR PARTS. good tires help more than people think as well. it is not hard to make power out of these cars
im also running a fatter throttle body, intake manifold, and its tuned on e85.
@@Septagrim mod list? Also whats some good front tires brand , im going with 315 toyo r888 for the back
@@Marios2v for a good street tire id go for a Michelin PS4S up front, good in all weather conditions and they seem to corner well
Lost me on the bama tuned🤣
My buddies car made 350. But it has trickflow heads and cams. Ran 12.50 on 18 inch wheels
That’s about 6000.00 dollars I been thinking about it for my 04
@@hermanrogers1325 might as well sell the mustang and use that 6k for a down payment on a terminator
Did you just drop the cams in? PTV?
Dope video bro, stock gear ⚙️?
If you have a 99-04, just swap in a coyote. If you use a gen 1 motor, you're looking at 400+ to the wheels for about $5500 total. For just a few grand and some elbow grease, you get a great motor that can be pushed hard.
Coyote 3-5k depending , control pack 1-2k , youll need to upgrade the transmission if you want longevity. Couple other things as well I believe. You make it seem as if its 5k and wham bam you can swap a coyote. Its easier in new edges, easiest if im remembering correctly, but its not a 5k in and out thing by any means. Better have at least 8k for parts alone and if you have 8k laying around just sell the new edge for 5-6k and buy a coyote car.
@@issasnipe8824 it could easily be done for 8k. You can get the tr3650 trans built for like a grand and it is good to go. I would get an f150 motor to save money and get a cj intake and l&m intake cams with the money you save from not getting a mustang engine and it would bring it up to mustang specs and beyond. The main difference in the f150 version is the intake manifold and intake cams so go ahead and upgrade those to better than stock mustang spec and you can make some good power. You could have a good gen 1 f150 motor with a ported cj and l&m intake only cams for 5 grand or less all in. That is a North of 450 rwhp setup all day regaurdless of fuel.
After any engine mod you should get the engine tuned
get a NPI bottom end with the PI heads, intake, and cams for more power than the PI engine. PI heads on the NPI block offer more power alone but with a slight bump in compression ratio.
If he has a perfectly functioning pi bottom end why would he buy a new block then take his entire engine apart just to gain a point of compression? Prob judt shave the heads get the same result
@@lollol-xp4mc its called being on a budget. you can pick up a full NPI block for about $100-$200 depending on location. The PI heads and intake on a NPI bottom usually net about 40-50hp more over the full PI combo. With turbos at 14.7PSI you can usually expect just under double horsepower of the NA config which would get you atleast that 50hp over a guy with PI bottom. All of that for $200. Yea shave the head and have a valve kiss the piston and have slight timing issues. And as far as taking the engine apart, thats part of the game when it comes to building power.
@@undeadexile2485 If you're on a budget then you're not running turbos.
@@Chanesaw328 i don't think budget means the same thing to you and me. it doesnt matter who is doing the work or what you are working on, jus try doubling your horsepower without forced induction. Any NA motor with $5000 dumped into will never perform like that same motor with $2500 dumped into and a $2500 turbo kit. Anyone on a budget should be running turbos otherwise you are either wasting time or not being serious.
My father and I share the 2000 GT in my pfp. Previous owner installed a K&N CAI, Jegs long tubes (Don't know part #), an unknown x-pipe, and SLP Loudmouth Catback, along with a couple visual goodies like the Mach 1 chin/ grille delete. Never told us what it makes on the dyno, but did have it tuned. Sounds like a beast when you rev it out though.
I bought my 03 GT last year, already had DNA Catless xpipes with the SLP Loudmouth II’s. No muffler ofcourse.
Honestly slp sound like garbage without cat's. The slp in the new edge and sn95 cars are honestly the worst sounding mufflers for our cars.
I've had a 99 GT for two months and the guy I bought it from was a mechanic and he had put some exhaust and exterior mods on it but the engine is pretty much stock so I want to i n c r e a s e h o r s e p o w e r without spending toooo much
@@Cubemaster
I'd say your best bet would be some basic bolt ons, rear end gears, and a short throw. Ours has a Hurst, and its amazing.
@@NitroTaki2002 Haha it's an automatic so no short throw for me. But I'm waiting to see if either the Borla Stinger catback or the Flowmaster American Thunder catback goes on sale this black friday/cyber monday.
Very nice
Ditch those iridium Spark plugs for some brisk silver plugs a step colder. Iridium isn’t better cause it costs more. It just prevents the Karen’s from having to pay for service for 125k miles. For performance you want copper or silver.
Hey man I got about the same built pi heads and intake and cams the pi heads are ported with an tune I think I’m getting a little over 300 hp
That’s what’s up dude. Just ported my heads as well while the block was in the machine shop, interested to see how much of a difference it makes. Stock intake manifold for now tho
I do like your car it’s nice, I am modding my 04 Mustang GT I think I like my 04 better than the 14 Mustang GT my 04 is a automatic
U did the calibration when u get stage 3 cams
You installed stage 3 comp cams ,did you install beehive springs and retainers ?
Yup, I sure did
Quick question, is it better to buy a catback from borla than to have a muffler shop custom make the piping for the catback and weld in the borla mufflers? 🤔
Or will it be the same thing
I would say to buy the cat back, unless you’re looking to do something extra special like quad tips or something. If you want good work done it would probably end up being much more expensive than just buying it and having a shop throw it on
when you get the tune do you just go to a performance shop because my car already has a stage 2 tune from previous owner and been thinking about stage 3 and yes i’m installing headers soon so yea that’s why i’m asking is that ok?
I got mine tuned at a dyno tune shop when I got cams, but I’m sure you can go to any performance shop and get it tuned if you’re just doing headers for now. When I did headers I just ordered a bama tuner through AmericanMuscle and told them my specs, they sent me the handheld tuner with a custom tune loaded on it, but that’s all I had on the car at the time
Thinking about putting a wet nos kit on mine so I can have all the power I want with flip of a switch 😅😂
Yeah I’ve heard these can get pretty spicy with nos, just don’t expect it to be reliable unless you put extra work in too haha
where did you get the cobra style spoiler from?
Americanmuscle.com, I believe LMR sells it too
That thing is clean tho
Thanks man! Appreciate it
Did you have to upgrade the valve spring when changing to bigger cams?
Yeah, I got the comp cams beehive valve springs and the steel valve spring retainers
320/340 at the crank right? not the wheels?
Nope, it’s to the wheels. Just found the Dyno sheet a couple days ago, will probably post it on my Instagram as proof haha
@@ajwiley1348 damn, thats wild!
I miss my mighty 2v
5:02 awesome
What brand of spacers are you running on the rear wheels? I want to get some fo r my rear wheels too but many brands out there really suck and they end up breaking. BORA is good but they dont have the set up that I want. And have you had any problems with them? Nice New Edge man 👍
I’m running the Coyote 1 inch billet spacers, I’ve had them for about 2 years and there hasn’t been any issues
Sounds fucking sick omg
I will probably keep mine forever!!
2000 Mustang GT built May 4th 2000 of 4781 GT's in Crystal White w/Charcoal/Nickel Interior 41,000 miles.
Modifications:
Exterior:
Steeda GT Splitter (Cobra R Clone)
Cobra "R" Hood w/extraction vents
Cobra "R" wing (to keep car on road at 175 mph)
Cobra "R" wheels, powdercoated white
"Roush"rear panel blackout
ATS Sequential rear turn signals
Mach1 Billet Gas Door
Mach1 grille delete
Bi-Xenon HID headlights
Interior:
1 of 98 Mustangs with "FR 500 Concept Car" leather Interior
Mach 1 pedals
Mach 1 shifter bezel
Whitefaced gages
35%tint
Engine:
Vortech V2 SQ Supercharger
Ford Racing 42# Injectors
Morpheous Power Pipe
"Dragon" ported and polished Intake Elbo
Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body
Custom “Ferrari Red” Cam Covers
Wideband Commander
Magnaflow
Stainless Cat-Back Exhaust w/X-pipe
Suspension:
Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts and Shocks
Bullit 13' PBR/Brembo Brakes
Ford Racing "C" Springs
Steeda Lower Control Arms
Steeda Strut Tower Brace
Steeda Offset Steering Rack Bushings
Kenny Brown Panhard Bar Track Kit
Driveline:
Ford Racing Aluminum Driveshaft
Steeda TriAx shifter
King Cobra Clutch
Steeda Billet clutch quadrant
Subframe Connectors
390 rwhp/380 rwtq(Tuned by my neighbor Doug creator of Bama Chips/Bama Tuning) 12.5@111--171 MPH (by GPS) @ Talladega.
390? That’s pretty weak for a SC
@@shawnlack1527 Non Intercooled/Conservative Tune, it could have been tuned to 425+...but the Mod Motors stock rods don't like 450+ hp! Besides 390rwhp is 170 over Stock RWHP (it is over a 75% increase)!
I have all the mods with a bama tuner and i can relate. Lol
When you did cams did you get me valve springs? Or anything else
Yeah I got the beehive valve springs and retainers that were recommended to go with it. Also had a valve job done prior to the install cuz it had like 95,000 on it or somethin, and I recently had my heads ported
@@ajwiley1348did you uave to buy new cam gears too?
@@ajwiley1348 im currently having issues with my heads , apparently I have low compression on one of the heads , you think I should get them rebuilt and install beehive valve springs , retainers and do a cam job while im already in there?
Yeah you might as well, much easier to just do it all at once, it’ll save a bunch of time and money. And as far as the cam gears go, it was so long ago I can’t remember, but I’m pretty sure I did change to adjustable ones
Can I please know your exhaust setup I want my new edge to sound just like yours 👌
Go watch the video I did about my exhaust! I talk about everything exhaust related 👍
Did you have to get different heads in order to fit the stage 3 cams ?
I did not but I did have a valve job done just to have them fresh, don’t quote me on this but I believe these heads can support .550 lift cams, and these max it out
@@ajwiley1348 I was gonna put stage 3 cams on my car but afraid of clearance issues
@@jaydenscott5028hey bro prob already solved this by now but I’m doing the stage 4 from comp cams (274s) and don’t need to do any notching or anything I think if you stay under the .500-.550 lift your good with any cam other than 278s but don’t quote me on that
I noticed when you revved or before you shifted, your rpms dropped really fast and you don’t hear that rev hang. Do you have a Restrictor plate on your iac or no? Sounds very healthy! Beautiful new edge man👍🏼
I don’t have a restrictor plate or anything, it usually depends on how I get on the throttle and I was in my neighborhood so I only gave it about half. Going to make another video soon where I really get on it
The lite weight fly wheel is what’s killing the rev hang
How do you pass inspection or smog? Clean ride 300+ hp sounds nice.
Thanks man! The only thing “illegal” on my car is the headlights because they’re tinted, and there’s no smog inspection in Maine, just need to have cats and mufflers which I have
How are you fitting stage 3 cams on stock pistons without interference?
Probably sheer luck tbh haha, I did it like 5 years ago and knew nothing about engines back then
The stock PI pistons have a small dish. Couple that with factory 530 lift and not to much worry. I had same cams in a flat top piston 4.6 that made considerably more at the tire. Just degree them in right.
@@gr8whitestang613 the dish doesn't help the piston still has the lip where the valves hit. always good to check em.
@@joem3970 not sure how you have PTV contact on the edge of the piston. They are canted in the stock heads which cause the valve to contact closer to center if not timed right. The angle of the intake and exhaust ports have some bearing on the angle of the valves. I have smiley faced a few in my SOHC adventures, every one has been closer to center.
Did you change to steeper gears? Why or why not? Thank you for the video brother.
Still has the stock ratio which I believe is 3.27. Haven’t felt the need to change them, rips through gears as it is and already spins 1st/2nd with the cams
Oh, that’s awesome! I like knowing what ppl do with their SN95 and why. I’d think you’d need a shorter gear ratio w/ stage 3 cams. Guess not if it works. Thanks for the reply.
What’s sn95 mustang I’ve never heard that before but hear of lately
94-98 Mustangs but technically the 99-04 is also a SN95 because they share the same chassis
it refers to the chassis code.. 'sn95' = 94-98 Musangs and 'New Edge' is 99-04 Mustangs.
What kind of injectors are they and do you have a MAF
Been a while since I got ‘em so I can’t recall the brand but they’re 30lb injectors, and yeah, still runnin the original MAF
what is your 1/4 mile time ?
Haven’t had time to hit a strip yet, I work nights and weekends so it makes it hard to make it to any events, and the car has been down for the entire season this year
Can you put all current mods in the description
Did you not have ptv issues with those cams?
No issues in the few years I’ve been running them, changing my setup soon tho that should make it even safer... ported heads, Stroker kit, and a few other things
After I found out how much money I would have to pay for 300 hp I decided to go and buy a 2014 5.0 6speed and enjoy the best of both cars now I want a 2019 Mustang GT automatic soon
Yeah I would’ve done the same thing but I live in Maine and chose to have a reliable year round vehicle over an expensive toy
c’mon man, any v8 car can be built but it’s not a MANS car unless it’s a manual v8.
How fast is your 1/4 mile time
Haven’t been able to take it to the track yet because I work nights and weekends, but I plan on getting new tires over the winter and making time for it next spring
Nice musthing
Man I miss my 2v
i love jdm cars always have and will but this car i have always wanted one as a kid hopefully i can get my hands on one of these in the near future for my first car. Any things to look out for these cars especially a 2004?
That’s what’s up man. Not really anything too special to look for unless you live up north, they’re pretty rust prone. There’s a huge aftermarket selection for these cars and a lot of people that know how to work on them and tune them, so as long as you have a clean body as a starting point, you should be fine
@@ajwiley1348 sweet thanks for the advice man i live in so cal so rust isn’t really a problem unless the car been park over grass for years but what mods would you recommend i do to the car first? or should i focus on better steering and handling then performance mods?
I personally would set it up with coilovers and wheels/ tires first, makes it look more aggressive and sets it up so it’s easier to handle more power. Then probably intake/full exhaust, then heads and cams. All up to what you’re goin for at first tho
They are so old at this point there is very few left… you just might be better off looking for something else. If you do get one it probably needs a whole new suspension. I mean everything.. control arms and all new bushings.. you’re talking $3000 to do that…
@@keithbellair9508 yeah i kinda came to this point already. I know a few of my neighbors that have them in pretty good/ decent condition but they wanted like 15k+ for it as much as i love the new edge mustangs i already bought my 2014 infiniti q60
my opinion short headers sound wayyy better. nice car though. and get way better sound with whole borla exhaust kit
I see them maine plates. Me to
I just see that too. From Maine to!
What kind of hood is this
No idea what brand it is as the car had the hood when I bought it, but it is a 3 inch cowl, pretty sure you can find them on Americanmuscle.com
I have an automatic. Do you think with the same mods that I can achieve 300hp?
Don’t see why not! Only thing that should be different is you will need to have your trans tuned as well to accommodate the extra hp, torque, and power ban
@@ajwiley1348 awesome. Thanks for the response man. I definitely want to do these mods.
Matt no all that is good for 15 maybe 20
@@hermanrogers1325 wrong, all that is most likely between 30-60hp more than stock..
What year was the dorman manifold on the mustangs
I believe that’s the one that came before the PI manifold which would put it as 94-98, don’t quote me on that one though haha
The dorman intake manifold NEVER came stock on any year mustang, it's a cheap replacement nothing more nothing less if you have one throw it in the trash and get a Ford PI replacement!
@@allenb61384 Facts. I had one that I planned on using on my 96 mustang pi swap, but ended up using a bullitt intake. I put it on my gfs Lincoln town car a few months ago because her intake was leaking and I already had it lying around. Its still going for now but it's garbage.
What came did you go with?
Stage 3 comp cams
105mm spacers? Do you have a deathwish?
Yeah I messed up, they were 1.5 inches which is only 30mm, still not sure why I said 105 haha
Hey, love the video. Do you know what the 0-60 time is?
Not currently, I tried to make a video of it before I put the car away but the tires were too far gone so I just spun the whole time haha. Putting new tires on in the spring and I’ll try again
@@ajwiley1348 ahh ok, well I love the car and I'll be looking forward to finding out that time in spring, good luck!
I’m listening...
your 320 hp is crank or rear wheel hp? do you have your dyno sheet?
To the wheel, I have my dyno sheet on my Instagram, I think I have a link in the description
@@ajwiley1348 duh didnt open description because im a dumbass sorry... liked the vid have a 2000 gt new edge vert that im new to..drunk totaled my 2002 ws6 and while im rebuilding i picked up the mustang tho my backyard mechanic lost my only key and tried to fix it by buying a junkyard ignition out of who knows what and so my car wont start anymore..im sitting here looking at a chrome set of long tubes, programmer, and throttle body..car already had lower springs, american mustang red traction bars, and american mustang cai.. as it sit or wasb4 this key thing it would boil tires at a stomp of gas pedal but has the full pi winsor engine stock with a hole in muffler...thought it was a cat back nope..
@@beachsidebum Bet you loved that 2v sound..lol TrickFlow heads n cams with a stroker 5.0L kit should put you over 400whp, build that 2v.. Just to be clear, ws6 is a gm car??
@@P71ScrewHead yeah do a search for " 2002 Trans Am WS6 Convertible" for sale mine was 1 of 142
@@beachsidebum I looked at a few built ones, they look 👀 nice.. Kinda rare to see a Chevy ls guy go from that to a 2v but welcome to the 2v world 🌎 man.. Love my lil workhorses..
What part of Maine are you from
Currently in Biddeford
If this is to personal I’m sorry but can you give a estimate of how you spent on all the mods ?
Parts were probably a total of about 4K , labor ended up being about that too cuz I had the whole upper end redone when I did the cams
So for 8k dollars you ended up with 320 whp 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Jesus christ bro
I want to get one to about 350-380ish
Best way to do that would probably be either follow my route then add ported heads and intake manifold, or turn it into a stroker with forged internals. Or you could always just go the cheaper route and throw some forced induction at it early on, but that’s pretty dangerous with these stock internals
Bro why are your brake rotors so small?
1999-2004 mustangs have smaller rotors than the cobra and bullit mustangs
Weight reduction bro
I have all that on mine minus cams
So are those numbers dyno numbers or just a guess?
Dyno numbers, didn’t have the sheet back then to reference haha, found it tho and it’s on my Instagram
@@ajwiley1348 damn then I should be more than that with mine, thanks.
So I have plenty of experience with the mod motors. The over 300 rwhp claim seems a bit high without some added compression or cubes.
Not a “claim”, ended up finding the dyno sheet after this, it’s posted on my Instagram. Just had a really good tuner I guess
@@ajwiley1348 Nit trying to bash you man, but it is easy to manipulate dyno correction factors. I had the 270 AH Comp Cams in my GT as well. Factory PI lower, Accufab upper with 75mm TB, Mac LT’s, Bassanni catted X, Borla catback, ported factory MAF, Densecharger CAI, Steeda UD pullies, .30 over with flat top pistons, stock heads. This ended up with the motor being 12.5 :1 compression. Car put 330 down running out of injector, maybe 20 left on table, maybe. ProDyno in SC tuned the car. He has tuned plenty of cammed 2V cars and was a sponsor at Mustang week for years. Pretty standard to see 270ish on cammed cars with exhaust. 99% of the mod tuners with good reputations will tell you that you won’t break 300 without compression or cubes with our mods. Even at that, the factory plastic intake is a choke point, which is why Trickflow developed there own version of a Bullitt style intake. At 5700 the factory intake is done so even our cams weren’t fully benefitted with the factory intake.
Just some info from a bunch of years messing with the mod motors. I have been through good tuners and shitters. There are definitely folks out there who will be you to get you money. But when the motor cracks up, they will take ZERO responsibility for a crap tune or crappy setup degree job on cams. That is why I learned to do as much as possible myself. And when I get something tuned, I am there watching what is going on with the AFR, CF, fuel table, spark table, etc.
Is that Tom Hank's son?