Chinese Diesel Heater: I Build a DIY Heat Recovery System....and it works!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มี.ค. 2023
- How Can I Make My Diesel Heater More Efficient and Cost MUCH Less per KWHr? Let Me Show You!
A successful DIY heat recovery storage battery made with stuff found around the yard!
I was inspired to attempt this after watching a video be Joshua De Lislie @joshuadelisle in which he made a heat recovery system using water and a metal bucket!
• £0.03 per kWh heater m...
Go watch it and subscribe - he puts out some amazing varied videos
This test was carried out in my polytunnel - Ideally it will be moved to my workshop in preparation for next year. The Heaters put out a lot of heat. I recorded the heat output to be up to 101c
Chinese Diesel heater used in this video is the triclicks 5kw diesel heater purchased from amazon in feb 2023 for £139.99 (the Cheapest at the time) do check other listings though as newer listing are usually cheaper!
www.amazon.co.uk/Triclicks-Di...
Thermal imaging camera used is a TOPDON
www.amazon.co.uk/TC001-Resolu...
I absolutely love this piece of kit - really simple to use and record from
#dieselheater #thermalimaging #chinesedieselheater #grantsyard #selfbuilt #DIY #workshopheater - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
You should run the combustion air intake to the outside as well (small black hose with air filter. By having the combustion air intake inside the green house, you are pulling cold air into the green house. Direct vent appliances are more energy efficient than power vent setups.
Great job 👍. Thank you so much for the shout out. The great thing about the mass storage is that it will slow release the heat, so for workshops and green houses they'll stay toasty through the night without risking keeping the heater on unattended. You're quite inspiring also. I've subbed. Cheers J
Means a lot. Thank you
@@grantsyard your more than welcome. You did a great job and the video was a pleasure.
Great stuff !
Yes. It's a "sand battery", kind of like in Finland. Well done
In this first test, you've only run it 30 mins. First it will dry off the sand and rocks and it will slowly steam. Then, when dry, it will just heat up as you want...
I have one in my work cabin in the garden and have been delighted with the super warmth this winter...
After much thinking, experimenting and piddling around, my idea for heat recovery is two fold.
First to use a 2m long straight 3/4" metal exhaust pipe, which sits suspended in the middle of a 2m 40mm PVC thick drain pipe. The entrance of the PVC is connected to the furnace air intake. The cooled exhaust goes outside, of course.
This will greatly preheat the furnace air inlet, which will be just added to the overall furnace heat.
Secondly. I'm putting a 10cm diameter, flexible plastic airduct to draw hot air from the ceiling and bring it down into the back air inlet where it can be reheated again.
I think that with those two changes, it would mean that I can run it, say, one or two settings lower for the same heating warmth = even less oil usage.
This is what I'm doing this spring/summer.
That sounds epic! You have seriously levelled up. Thanks for taking the time to explain. I think many of us In the UK have taken cheap ongrid electricity and gas for granted for way to long and have a lot of catching up to do!!
Have the combustion air intake(the hose with the air filter on the end that sucks air into the combustion chamber) routed outside as well. Having the input air sucked from outside will prevent a negative pressure build up in the building from the air that would otherwise be sucked out of the room. When you suck air out of the room with windows and doors closed it creates a bit of a vacuum in the room because it is in essence pumping air out of the room. So now with this negative pressure(vacuum) created in the room the air outside will want to try an rush into the room thru any cracks in the doors and windows, causing drafts of cold air being pumped into the room, at the same time if there are no cracks in the doors and windows then the combustion chamber continues to eat up all the o2 in the room and become even more inefficient burn creating even more carbon monoxide, less heat, and less air to breathe in the room.
By taking the combustion air from outside you eliminate the negative pressure build up in the first place, and at the same time ensure a more complete burn with full flow of o2 getting into the chamber at all times, and now the combustion won't need to suck the o2 it needs from the room anymore, causing the atmospheric pressure in the room to be at the least equal to the outside atmosphere, and at most it will create a positive air pressure in the room(because you are heating the air in the room) instead of a negative one, causing the air thru the cracks in doors and windows to flow outward instead of inward eliminating drafts at the same time it ensures you have enough o2 to breathe because the fire is not eating it all up.
Note: this is not something i made up, i learned it in technical school. Also all the modern 99% efficient furnaces use this method of sucking the combustion air from outside as well as venting the exhaust outside. This way it can't fuck with the air pressure in your room or fuck with o2 levels in the room. Even modern wood stoves take combustion input from outside! It is better to have some warm air escaping OUT thru the cracks instead of cold air rushing IN thru the cracks causing uncomfortable conditions and inefficient burn. That is mainly what this does by taking combustion air from outside, safer, better burn, more heat from each burn, no drafts, better air conditions for breathing, etc... You are probably not worried about more carbon monoxide being created because your exhaust is outside, but the more carbon monoxide it produces means the less complete the burn is, reducing efficiency. But at the same time allowing incomplete burn to escape outside is not environmentally friendly. But notice i said carbon monoxide not carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide is pollution but carbon dioxide is not, regardless what politicians want to have you believe. Remember, politicians are not scientists, and also remember they are known and proven LIARS!
The points you make are valid and important, especially in a domestic setting. The areas i am using these in are a polytunnel with loads of ventilation and a 200 year old railway shed.
For vans, sheds and other small areas it is really important to do as you suggest.
Thanks for the comments
I thought of using used motor oil in a sealed copper tube rad that would have exhaust extension clamped and wrapped to it.
I reckon that would work really well! I have an old double rad I could try it with
you might could try a smaller barrel -less mass to heat might give you a higher temperature, I am going to start off trying a metal 5 gallon bucket with the exhaust coiled in the bucket and attached to the bucket inside with small pipe hangers so the exhaust pipe is toudhing the bucket. I am also considering stacking fire brick in the center of the coiled exhaust in the bucket. a small fan might help distribute the warmer air inside the building for a more uniform temperature
I used two transit egr coolers together and ran water with a small pump to cycle back to the workshop into a barrel , giving me warm to hot water for hand washing and a heat storage
Use a full barrel filled with silica sand . Then you have a sand heat storage battery. You might get 20hours of residual heat stored from about 3 hours burning . Great project
So it’s a type of storage heater?
Awesome idea thank you for the video
Well better late than never I suppose... Great idea. That mass will give you a thermal flywheel to try and keep the temperature up for free in your work shop.
If I ever get around to buying one of these heaters I plan on experimenting with a coaxial exhaust pipe. The idea is to put the smaller hot exhaust pipe inside a larger pipe supplying the cold combustion air. I think this would burn the fuel better since warmer intake air should vaporize the fuel better. The exhaust after that sent to your exhaust battery could improve things?
This may be a bit obvious but a second drain hole drilled at the lowest point (near the end) of your muffler would allow all the condensation to discharge. This will help prevent the collection of water rusting out the muffler.
That exhaust (length) seems to be working ok, but be aware that there's a limit on how long you can make the exhaust before the increased back pressure will cause the heater to flare out, or fail to start. Great build, hope to see more.
Hey. Thanks for your kind words. Yeah I was aware that it could happen but have no idea at what point or length. It worked really well and is being moved into my workshop for the winter to work as one of our main winter heaters!
great video, I think webasto only recommend 1.5m length exhaust. also why not just use sand as the heat store, then you can faff about and change as and when you wish@@grantsyard
Would be interesting to add an inline fan to the end of a long run, and see how long the pipe can be until the exhaust reaches ambient temp. Some radiant heat systems work like this, and the burner is at one end, and the exhaust fan is at the other end of the radiant pipe.
from what i read the exhaust can be up to 200 meters
@davidwalesby2426 More like 2 meters.. Where did you read 20?
Great vid, can I suggest that you get that wall behind you repointed ....
The longer the exhaust is the harder the fan and the fan bearings have got to work to push out the gas so its gain one thing but loose another..
I suppose its able finding the sweet spot
I'm wondering if you could transition the 1" exhaust to a 1 1/2"or 2" flex exhaust pipe into the sand to reduce back pressure and maybe capture more exhaust heat.
Great idea but I would leave the bucket with the sand uncovered so the heat that builds will easily escape
what about running the exhaust through a car radiator or a heater core, with a fan on the back of it to blow the heat through the room? or would it melt the soldier joints? anyways that's a different project all together, i was thinking if you were to use a drum half the diameter but taller you would feel the heat quicker, hotter and more heat would be ready made available,
I didn't see it, but if you have no vent to allow any moisture to escape the sand battery it could explode. So, be sure to have a vent to allow any steam to escape the sand battery.
It has a not fixed list for that reason!
Thanks for finding a thermal camera! Seeing is believing.
These relatively inexpensive thermal imaging cameras are awesome!
Try: 1. Looking up David McLuckie (iirc). 2. An EGR.
Great idea and execution!
But I see it working more effectively if you route the exhaust running upwards through the storage "battery"!
I think this would retain more heat, as not only is most heat generated nearest to the heater itself, so risng through "battery" and accumulating more heat, but also allow exhaust gases to escape easier, thus taking back pressure off of the unit as a whole!
Also, can you get your hands on any old "storage heater" bricks to add into your "battery"?
Not sure if you're are aware, but cheap cat litter (fullers earth) is the most effective of insulation, as it does conduct heat at all, so 100% of heat is reatained inside the heater/battery, so if you can double wall it, and fill cavity with cat litter!?
Hope something there might possibly help you get a better result, but maybe not too!? Haha!
Best of luck with it matey! 👍🖖✌️
That would fill the exhaust with water having no way to escape
@@HjuvikLabs Why would that be the case the rising heat would carry any water vapour up and out of system surely!? 👍✌️🖖
Nobody:
Tnx webasto
Thanks
Great haircut!
😁
CO2 must be removed unless you are growing plants
Yeah yeah I am growing plants. The exhaust blows out of the tunnel. It's always worth having a CO2/CO monitor when these are used in a van etc
Co2 is not the problem. Its the nox / carbon MONOXIDE. It will kill the plants
Mate, you're working with sharp edges and not wearing gloves. You're only using one hand to hold that angle grinder. You're only wearing trainer and not proper work boots. You're handling bricks, again without gloves. I also suspect there wasn't any safety glasses or a face shield in the mix anywhere. I know you think you're safe, but what sort of example are you setting to people, particularly younger people, watching your video?
Taken on board mate, Thanks
I always wear safety glasses, goggles or visor. You are right that I was only wearing trainers 😔. I don't use gloves with the grinder as I have found over the years that I am unable to hold and control it so well...however you are right that others watching may see what I do and copy so from this point on I'll take on the points you have highlight...Thanks Chris
Sap all the fun out of everything why dont u.
@@paulmadsen5641 Yeah, it's all fun until someone loses an eye, or a finger (or worse). Safety rules are written in blood.
Isn't that a bio hazard?🤔@@Chris-hx3om