Great video, enjoyed that one. You have bought a good example with minor rust. Anything you can do such as this to get some chemicals in and about the panels can only be a good thing. Cheers, Adam
@@robbieshields1563 great, glad it was useful. Let’s face it, you’d have to be mad and super wealthy to pay someone else to do all the maintenance on one of these! I’ve just had to buy a new set of tyres only to discover that two of my wheels are buckled. One of which has already been welded and now needs doing again.
@@Woodyrvf750 Really feel sorry for you. Your L322 looks so nice but seems to have a few underlying issues. If it's any consolation I've just forked out nearly £700 to have the auxiliary belt and tensioners done. Possibly a job I could have tackled myself but would have taken much longer and and ££££ for tools. On the plus side I seem to have found a mechanic who's specialised in RR's and not afraid to take them on as so many seem to be.
@@robholland1937 you’re right Rob. I just did this so it takes me less time to squirt some gunk in the rear sill which I hope means I’ll do it more often.
You can access the inner and outer layers of the arch from inside the boot , however you have to remove trims and electrical to gain access but once you’re in it enables you to run cavity wax or alike into the welded seam of the inner and outer arches
Hi Woody, I'm about a 5 minute walk from your house. I have just had both cills replaced around the rear jacking points on my L322 and I'm more than happy to show you what's been done and any tips if needed. Regards, Paul.
@@fredrikedebo4179 glad you found it useful. More Lanoguard arrived yesterday and it took me 20 minutes to squirt some in this morning. Now a much simpler job which I will do more often.
On my 2011 I bear metalled inside my arches were rust was starting to show and epoxy primed it then prepped and painted the whole inside of the arches followed by corrolan wax , one of the main issues is the sunroof drain in the rear wheel arch so I extended mine so it discharges below the cills , otherwise it keeps it wet and migrates inside the cill and jacking points ending up rotting 🤨
@@spencereagle1118 I suppose I meant the rust was coming from the side I could see, rather than from the other side. Let’s see what she looks like next time I take the liners out.
Great video, enjoyed that one. You have bought a good example with minor rust. Anything you can do such as this to get some chemicals in and about the panels can only be a good thing. Cheers, Adam
Thanks Adam, glad you enjoyed the video. I think I’ll include a quick squirt in the cavities as part of the car wash routine.
Thanks. Another informative video that gives the amateur enthusiast the courage to tackle themselves.
@@robbieshields1563 great, glad it was useful. Let’s face it, you’d have to be mad
and super wealthy to pay someone else to do all the maintenance on one of these! I’ve just had to buy a new set of tyres only to discover that two of my wheels are buckled. One of which has already been welded and now needs doing again.
@@Woodyrvf750 Really feel sorry for you. Your L322 looks so nice but seems to have a few underlying issues. If it's any consolation I've just forked out nearly £700 to have the auxiliary belt and tensioners done. Possibly a job I could have tackled myself but would have taken much longer and and ££££ for tools. On the plus side I seem to have found a mechanic who's specialised in RR's and not afraid to take them on as so many seem to be.
I removed the sill covers entirely and then filled the sills via the fixing holes. No need to drill. All on full fat forum 😊
@@robholland1937 you’re right Rob. I just did this so it takes me less time to squirt some gunk in the rear sill which I hope means I’ll do it more often.
@@robbieshields1563 was the belt starting to make the cold weather squeal?
You can access the inner and outer layers of the arch from inside the boot , however you have to remove trims and electrical to gain access but once you’re in it enables you to run cavity wax or alike into the welded seam of the inner and outer arches
@@barriecole2488 thanks. Good to know for anyone wanting an alternative to drilling holes in their car..
Hi Woody, I'm about a 5 minute walk from your house. I have just had both cills replaced around the rear jacking points on my L322 and I'm more than happy to show you what's been done and any tips if needed. Regards, Paul.
@@godwinone very interested to see what was replaced and who did the work. Do you have the L322 with the very short number plate?? 👍
Oh no! One more thing to put on the list! But, i have got bigger fish to fry... BCU problems. Thanks for video!
@@fredrikedebo4179 glad you found it useful. More Lanoguard arrived yesterday and it took me 20 minutes to squirt some in this morning. Now a much simpler job which I will do more often.
On my 2011 I bear metalled inside my arches were rust was starting to show and epoxy primed it then prepped and painted the whole inside of the arches followed by corrolan wax , one of the main issues is the sunroof drain in the rear wheel arch so I extended mine so it discharges below the cills , otherwise it keeps it wet and migrates inside the cill and jacking points ending up rotting 🤨
@@barriecole2488 good idea.
THANKYOU..MINE..NEXT..WELLDONE
It's never 'surface rust'.
@@spencereagle1118 I suppose I meant the rust was coming from the side I could see, rather than from the other side. Let’s see what she looks like next time I take the liners out.