You seem to show a simple example but I have done them all and you explain it well. We rarely did a fully adheard roof unless it was under 100 square. On 100-50,000 square it was always mechanical attachment. Flat roofing is an art not a science. The details are where it will fail and you must follow a set of guidelines. It's hard to get an entire crew to prefect the manufacturers guidelines. I spent enough time up on those roofs to know that you really have to want it to succeed. The whole crew has to buy in to get perfect results. Otherwise the foreman is going to run around putting out fires all day everyday. I cashed in them chips when 1) I was to damn old and 2)I could make more money to do half the work. I respect you low slope guys because I've been there. Keep up the good quality work and get yourself a rinobond machine or three.
Thank you for your explanation. One thing I still can't find is info on edges. How do you do them? I put rubber on a low slope roof years ago, adhered to aluminum drip edge. After a few years it blew up. I have a roll of pvc but don't want to move forward til I'm sure I can do it right.
You need to get PVC coated drip edge, they're about 30$ a 10' stick. or use a PVC peel and stick/cover strip, priming both the metal and the pvc, using the peel and stick go over the,
I have a question ,, hopefully you can answer. On a fully adhered pvc roof. How can I weld the seam without creating a ripple effect on the other side of the weld. Seems to me ,, being fully adhered , the only part that is not glued is the 6” pvc you leave for the robot to weld the seam, hot air gets trapped in on other side of the silicone wheel and now there is puckering or ripple effect. Any clues or ideas on how to get rid of that. Thanks a lot
On fully adhered, you run a 3" lap verse the 6". Instead of going off the factory 6" line, you need to make your own 3" marks on where the rolls need to be set. You also need to make sure whoever gluing the lap side does a nice straight 3" ( ish) edge.
You're missing a big one; mechanically attached membranes are more robust and able to handle small leaks. With a FA system, you get a small leak that compromises the bond in one area, you end up with the peel front travelling across the entire roof...to the point you can lose the entire roof.
Can I use TPO directly over wood? I’ve done it over a wood wall, but I need to do it over a wood monolith- it is a decorative part of a Dunkin’ Donuts...using insulation will raise the deck too high
This is probably old and complete, but you should use a 1/4 densdeck coverboard. This is likely required by code. This will avoid raising anything, will prevent water transfer, and supply proper fire rating.
I'm a contractor and have done plenty of roofing, and roll roofing. I have a 2.5 pitch roof between two 5/12 roofs. On the 2.5 pitch I have a rubber roof i put it on in 2012. It looks like I'm going to need to replace it soon. I'm thinking about doing a PVC roof. Menards has a 10 x 20 sheet. With 20 year warranty. It looks like that's the best solution that they carry. My question is can I glue it down over my rubber roof or would I need to put down insulation sheets again and glue it to that. Thanks for any replys! I don't want to do it again in 10 years. So I think I want to go with PVC. I'm 62 so this is my last roof. Thanks again!!
Mister action I would definitely put down either a new piece or ridge polyiso insulation or a cover board and fasten it down with screws and plates and then glue your new membrane to that. We really like a cover board called Invinsa board made by johns manville. It's tough, light weight, and only a 1/4 "' thick . It's also wise to disable the old rubber roof by cutting it before you recover it so if you do have a leak you can find it in the future. Typical fastening pattern for iso or cover board is 12 screws and plates per 4x 8 board. Then you would be in good shape to glue your new pvc sheet down. You may want to check some roofing supply places in your area and compare prices to menards just to have an idea of your options
Yes. You can adhere or mechanically attach any size sheets. Typically roofs need to have perimeter sheets around the entire building. so you 5' rolls around the whole edge, then 10 the footers in the field. This is to protect against wind uplift
Screw every foot. The membrane will have X's that mark where the screws go. Screw directly into whatever the sub straight is. If you have an old metal roof, you need to use a flute filler to fill the gaps so it's flat surface. Each roof is different. so how/what you do is dependent on the system that's there and the method you choose to install
I really like this guy. I can tell, 1 second all it takes, by the way he speaks, explains and carry’s himself he is outstanding. Better be the owner? If not he needs his own company. He also needs to teach me all he knows so I can DOMINATE like an Exterior Pro Roofing BOSS in my area/region. I shall take over all the NW region of this beautiful country with this mans help. 😁👍🇺🇸
Why you asking stupid questions? TPO and PVC have pretty much an identical installation process. Really, he could label the video 'Single Ply PVC/TPO Flat Roof Installation (Fully Adhered vs Mechanically Attached)' everything he's explaining applies to both. I agree with CC roofing, it looks like Durolast pvc.
Hey great vid! Question: can fleece backed TPO be welded at the seams?
so you could glue or fasten the same tpo?. can you also do both if you have a plywood wall and just fasten the flat roof?
Hello! Thanks for the informative video! I need to replace my flat roof. Is mechanically tpo better than SBS adhere roofing system?
You seem to show a simple example but I have done them all and you explain it well. We rarely did a fully adheard roof unless it was under 100 square. On 100-50,000 square it was always mechanical attachment. Flat roofing is an art not a science. The details are where it will fail and you must follow a set of guidelines. It's hard to get an entire crew to prefect the manufacturers guidelines. I spent enough time up on those roofs to know that you really have to want it to succeed. The whole crew has to buy in to get perfect results. Otherwise the foreman is going to run around putting out fires all day everyday. I cashed in them chips when 1) I was to damn old and 2)I could make more money to do half the work. I respect you low slope guys because I've been there. Keep up the good quality work and get yourself a rinobond machine or three.
Rhino or Button?
@@RoofingFacts rhino on the larger roofs.
Amazing Video
Rip Headphone users @ 3:47
Can I do mechanically attachment to a plywood roof?
Thank you for your explanation. One thing I still can't find is info on edges. How do you do them? I put rubber on a low slope roof years ago, adhered to aluminum drip edge. After a few years it blew up. I have a roll of pvc but don't want to move forward til I'm sure I can do it right.
You need to get PVC coated drip edge, they're about 30$ a 10' stick. or use a PVC peel and stick/cover strip, priming both the metal and the pvc, using the peel and stick go over the,
What happens with ice build up and pull away?
How about wrinkles how do you eliminate the wrinkles with mechaically fastened system ?
I have a question ,, hopefully you can answer. On a fully adhered pvc roof.
How can I weld the seam without creating a ripple effect on the other side of the weld. Seems to me ,, being fully adhered , the only part that is not glued is the 6” pvc you leave for the robot to weld the seam, hot air gets trapped in on other side of the silicone wheel and now there is puckering or ripple effect. Any clues or ideas on how to get rid of that.
Thanks a lot
On fully adhered, you run a 3" lap verse the 6". Instead of going off the factory 6" line, you need to make your own 3" marks on where the rolls need to be set. You also need to make sure whoever gluing the lap side does a nice straight 3" ( ish) edge.
You're missing a big one; mechanically attached membranes are more robust and able to handle small leaks. With a FA system, you get a small leak that compromises the bond in one area, you end up with the peel front travelling across the entire roof...to the point you can lose the entire roof.
Can I use TPO directly over wood? I’ve done it over a wood wall, but I need to do it over a wood monolith- it is a decorative part of a Dunkin’ Donuts...using insulation will raise the deck too high
This is probably old and complete, but you should use a 1/4 densdeck coverboard. This is likely required by code. This will avoid raising anything, will prevent water transfer, and supply proper fire rating.
I'm a contractor and have done plenty of roofing, and roll roofing. I have a 2.5 pitch roof between two 5/12 roofs.
On the 2.5 pitch I have a rubber roof i put it on in 2012. It looks like I'm going to need to replace it soon. I'm thinking about doing a PVC roof. Menards has a 10 x 20 sheet. With 20 year warranty. It looks like that's the best solution that they carry. My question is can I glue it down over my rubber roof or would I need to put down insulation sheets again and glue it to that. Thanks for any replys!
I don't want to do it again in 10 years. So I think I want to go with PVC. I'm 62 so this is my last roof. Thanks again!!
Mister action I would definitely put down either a new piece or ridge polyiso insulation or a cover board and fasten it down with screws and plates and then glue your new membrane to that. We really like a cover board called Invinsa board made by johns manville. It's tough, light weight, and only a 1/4 "' thick . It's also wise to disable the old rubber roof by cutting it before you recover it so if you do have a leak you can find it in the future. Typical fastening pattern for iso or cover board is 12 screws and plates per 4x 8 board. Then you would be in good shape to glue your new pvc sheet down. You may want to check some roofing supply places in your area and compare prices to menards just to have an idea of your options
@@ExteriorProInc
Thank you!!
Can I mechanically install a pvc membrane that is 10 ft wide?
Yes. You can adhere or mechanically attach any size sheets. Typically roofs need to have perimeter sheets around the entire building. so you 5' rolls around the whole edge, then 10 the footers in the field. This is to protect against wind uplift
So on a mechanically attached PVC membrane roof. Do you screw into the trusses or the old metal roof? Also, how far apart do you need to fasten it?
Screw every foot. The membrane will have X's that mark where the screws go. Screw directly into whatever the sub straight is. If you have an old metal roof, you need to use a flute filler to fill the gaps so it's flat surface. Each roof is different. so how/what you do is dependent on the system that's there and the method you choose to install
I really like this guy. I can tell, 1 second all it takes, by the way he speaks, explains and carry’s himself he is outstanding. Better be the owner? If not he needs his own company. He also needs to teach me all he knows so I can DOMINATE like an Exterior Pro Roofing BOSS in my area/region. I shall take over all the NW region of this beautiful country with this mans help. 😁👍🇺🇸
I can tell you haven’t been in the game very long if this is new information
Doble Vaso - right over the top 🛫then came back for another pass over you 🛩.
Potrvlb when you use the hand welder it’s probably a guaranteed leak chump
You always need a cover board if you want any kinda warranty’s
Why you showing TPO and not PVC then?
Durolast PVC?
Why you asking stupid questions? TPO and PVC have pretty much an identical installation process. Really, he could label the video 'Single Ply PVC/TPO Flat Roof Installation (Fully Adhered vs Mechanically Attached)' everything he's explaining applies to both.
I agree with CC roofing, it looks like Durolast pvc.
Don't do this line of work. I want to swan dive off the roof everyday. I hate my life. DON'T DO IT!