How To Cut, Finish and Install a Butcher Block Countertop
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Butcher block is a great, affordable alternative to quartz, marble and granite countertops. They’re also completely customizable in shape, size and material. See how easy it is to install a beautiful wood countertop in your home.
Not only can you choose from so many wood options, but you can leave them natural, or stain them to your desired color. The possibilities are endless. And, you can use a butt joint or a mitre joint to join the corner seams. This video shows a mitre joint.
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Oh my god. Talk about a motivational video!! Done with a vintage Black and Decker sidewinder and a rusty tape measure and the outcome was infinitely better than mine and I had all the gadgets!! Well done ma'am.
Thank you for this video. My wife and I watched it several times before installing a butcher block countertop in our kitchen. Following your example we were able to do the installation working in the evening after work over the course of a week. Thanks again! Wish I knew how to attach pictures.
I'm so happy to hear that! Thank you for sharing. If you'd like to email me your pictures, I'd love to feature it on my Facebook page. info@thedailydiy.net
Thank you for the video and links for tools. They are so helpful. I'm making butcher block table with two pieces.
I be that will look amazing! Enjoy the process
The wife and I just finished up our own butcher block counter tops we made from the wood from trees on our property. (Maple, Ash and Oak) and they turned out beautifully. We made a video of how we did that as well. If you get a chance, take a look and let us know what you think.
Oh wow! Watching it now.
Just exactly what I needed to answer all my questions. Thank you so much for sharing.
you're welcome
chef's kiss!! thanks so much for documenting and sharing! this is soooooo helpful ❤
thank you for this
Wow what a fantastic video. Thanks, I just bought my butcher block counter. Could you please tell us what the epoxy glaze is?
Thank you. The Epoxy is "Famowood". I have the tutorial for it on the website here: thedailydiy.net/how-to-epoxy-your-wood-countertop/
Thank you straight to the point 👍🏼
Really glad I found this video, we are about to do the exact same thing with Hampton Bay Walnut and epoxy coat. How is it holding up, would you have done anything differently?
I am 1.5 years in after I did this. The epoxy coating is all still intact. It will show minor scratches, like if you drag a glass canister across the counter and there was a rough crumb underneath it...but they easily buff right out. I do want to note if you put a plate on it with hot food, the plate wants to stick for a second, but comes right up. Also, when I have my crock pot on it for a few hours then remove it, you'll see indentations in the epoxy from the crockpot feet, but they disappear within a few hours. Overall I am happy with it and would do it again.
looks great
Do you have a link and video for the epoxy glaze you used?
here is an affiliate link: rstyle.me/+hrpQJ4PPDZ4NuP0CISrUyQ
Did you install this over your sink? Would love to see how!
Nice video, do you have any tips on how to smooth out the edges on some of the cuts?
Best way is to use a belt sander with 120 grit. Warning if your not experienced in using a belt sander then do it the old fashioned way hand sand it
Sandpaper block.
Where did you get your butcher blocks?
The Home Depot. I've got the link to the exact ones in the description.
How long did this take you to do?
we spent an entire Saturday working on it
COME ON MAN sanding a butcher block really has ten sides if you like rounded edges vs straight sharp angles, and a 50/50 mix of mineral and varnish makes a great WIPE on sealer even if you stain for color first then after first coat dries use the sand paper fine grit to remove roughness then wipe with denatured alcohol to raise the hair once more and eliminate any oil residue from stain and wood fibers or hair to smooth out then just add coats of either 50/50 or full on varnish top coat wonderful tops my thoughts are i like oil way more then water based much more durable but your choice of course got to say that seam 🤣🤣
Don’t filling the gap with sawdust. undercut your diagonal joints please.
Why?
Yeah I agree just a slight back bevel would give a much tighter mitered joint
You will still need to fill with a little sawdust. Btm line those miter cuts are not easy.
The cut is very easy.
There’s an adjustment on your Skil saw that allows you to make this undercut with a simple adjustment. And when you cut the other side, you do it from the other direction do not readjust. You want the angles to match. simple carpentry technique.
@@scottwaynewootton731 until you line it up and there is a gap because the wall was 96 degrees.
You dont need a router. You can use borring drill bits and a chisel
Sandals and Ring no good
Thats not a "Cresant" wrench unless it is made by the " Cresant Company "! It is an open end boxed end wrench.
You should take this video down -- #4 is why.
1. You made this content in 2022 and yet STILL chose to shoot it vertically? Ugh.
2. Those dremel grooves won't hold that countertop adequately. Your top is going to work loose over time.
3. Your joint is going to give you years of problems now. It's going to shed sawdust/wood particles as it degrades.
4. I would personally NEVER use polyurethane finish because it's only food safe if 1) you CURE IT FOR 30 DAYS, and 2) it remains UNDAMAGED. If you cut, nick, chip, or cause it to shed, you are ingesting potentially TOXIC chemicals, and since kitchen counters are prone to cuts, nicks, and chips, NO THANKS, I don't need my food seasoned with polyurethane shavings. I'd STRONGLY SUGGEST mineral oil, beeswax, or carnuba instead.
This is absolutely the worst install you could possibly demonstrate. It's exactly how NOT to do this.
Except you are 100% WRONG on your #4. Polyurethane is food safe after it cures. Not only do I know this personally with my constant use of this product, but even everything on Google says the same. Know your facts. It's important to know what you're talking about if you're going bash someone for it
Well did you think that would expands and contracts in the same direction? Gluing that miter joint together on the ingrain is going to crack the long grain because they're both going in opposite directions You could glue a butt joint because the long grain is strong enough not to crack out when the end grain starts to swell these large miter joints can move up to an eighth of an inch one way or the other depending on the humidity You are going to have problems with that miter joint if you haven't already You should have used Domino's or floating mortises with the miter bolts and no glue
Unless you're using your wooden countertop as a cutting board (which I think is insane) the polyurethane is not an issue.
Mostly agree on your other points.
Glue has no place in this install.
This is a great example of how not to.
Nonsense