Upgrading 3018 CNC z-axis

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
  • I purchased an upgraded z-axis for my generic 3018 CNC but I couldn't find details of how well they worked or how to fit them. This 30 minute video walks through most of the process in near real-time!
    Click here to subscribe: / @sourlandwoodturning
    The pros:
    - very well made with a lot less flex and seems to be quieter
    - a lot more travel for the spindle
    -. The model I got can take pretty much any spindle in the future with just a new bracket
    -. The knob on the stepper is really handy
    -. Inexpensive and arrived in around 2 weeks from China. (The main piece with mounting hardware was $88.58 and the bracket was $12.47)
    The cons:
    - the distance from the bottom of the z-axis frame and the bed is less than on the plastic stock piece. If I'd known, I would not have done the upgrade because of what I mill but I'll make it work.
    ** I fixed this by raising the gantry - here’s how I did that for $30!! I’m now very happy with the upgrade… • Raising the 3018 X-Axi...
    The lessons:
    -. How to attach the kick-back (6:36)
    -. How to wire the new stepper motor (24:00)
    -. The clearance between the axis and the bed (28.36)
    US $79.38 23% Off | CNC 3018 Pro X-Axis Upgrade Kit Suit CNC Router 3018 Pro with CNC Milling Machine Accessories Sliding Table
    star.aliexpres...
    This was for my spindle size...
    US $4.22 10% Off | Aluminum alloy spindle motor base clamp / fixing bracket, inner diameter: 40mm 42mm 45mm-80mm Engraving machine accessories
    star.aliexpres...

ความคิดเห็น • 60

  • @dtroy15
    @dtroy15 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thanks for this video! Just what I was looking for. Subscribed - hope to see more!

  • @gasparigi
    @gasparigi 2 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    A tip: you can use 80x20 instead 40x20 alu extrusions on the two sides, you will get more clearance.

  • @zaviardavis7851
    @zaviardavis7851 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I just setup my Z axis carriage similar to this one and I'm getting some play in the Z axis bearings, was that the same for you too? If so how di you fixed it?

    • @dieterkrause1674
      @dieterkrause1674 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      its senseless to remove - the rods are flexible - -thats most play

  • @briggsbughouses6291
    @briggsbughouses6291 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I cut out some strips from an aluminium drinks can to sleeve the motor mounting bracket rather than trying to close the bracket to fit the motor.

  • @DelPellezin
    @DelPellezin 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    thanks for this video, I'm might invest in this upgrade as well, my X axis (sideways movement) has popped out a couple of times, sending my spindle to the extreme right! This aluminium setup looks a lot stronger. Question, how do you find the original spindle motor? is it worth upgrading to a faster / stronger one?

  • @Catiadr
    @Catiadr 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I can't find this upgrade kit on Aliexpress.

  • @DaveGatton
    @DaveGatton 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great job Andrew. I recently purchased a 3018 pro and I'm working on some inexpensive upgrades for myself. Well done. 👍🏻

  • @psychomanuk2173
    @psychomanuk2173 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Heya Jaime, awesome video, thanks for putting it up - the only thing I would say is that there's no reason to apologise! :) Modesty is hard to come across these days and you took the time to put this together and share it. Love the comment at 15:32 :D
    P.S. Mine is currently in pieces lol, I'll fix it .... sometime .... I hope!
    Cheers again

  • @momo79nono
    @momo79nono 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    extend aluminum profile from 20*40 to 20*80 for both side to machine .it will extend z axis

  • @jesusadames1130
    @jesusadames1130 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the video because my 3018 arrives tomorrow and i know this is the first upgrade that i want to do.

  • @bigfilsing
    @bigfilsing 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    @22:11 A couple of washers for the M5 bolts would have stopped the bolts bottoming out I think. Washers are a good idea to stop the allen head chewing the clamp block as well. Do you think that set square was big enough !!! :-) Great video thanks

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes - that's that one of those things that's really obvious as soon as someone mentions it, but at the time I was focused on the bottom of the bolt, not the top :-) ! The laugh is that accuracy is not my forte, I could have used the corner of a cigarette package and it would not have made any difference! Glad you enjoyed it.

  • @jthowson
    @jthowson ปีที่แล้ว

    What is that bracket your using for you threaded rod and where did you get it. Thank you

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The bracket was the one that came with the original setup, it worked with the new, longer, rods. Does that make sense?

  • @loaderopp
    @loaderopp 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Did you forget washers? they would have taken the length of the bolts.

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I realized that last night! I didn’t come with washers but I have plenty. That’s what I love about sharing these things…as a group we get to the best answers!!

    • @loaderopp
      @loaderopp 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@sourlandwoodturning all good, But that is what i would have done. and will be doing if needed when my order arrives.

  • @GeorgeZaharia
    @GeorgeZaharia ปีที่แล้ว

    u can also mount a 4th axis that rotates the spindle on its X axis that way u can adjust perfect zero and not worry about the angle not being perfect... u can do it in software. but its a headache to upgrade to something like that. also for more stability instead of the roller bearings... because u have the 20x20 bar behind u could use another 20x20 and 2 linear guiding rails and fix the bearings upon that ... and then u know for sure there will be no slack in ur Z and X axis movement. since now those 3 bars 2 for sliding 1 for driving are wobbly as hell especially if u want to increase the size of the spindle motor... from 10volt one that comes with it to a makita lets say... or even something slightly bigger... ul get 10 to 50x more vibration so the 3 suspended bars won't be enough. but at that point... just save 1000$ buy a 2500x1250 materials and motors nema 23 and just make ur own cnc ... and then u can do basically any material being aluminium, steel etc...

  • @rcpilotjohn
    @rcpilotjohn 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    It is extremely critical that you get the 3 axis at 90 degrees from one another if you plan to actually make any parts to spec. If you are doing artwork, perhaps not. But to make parts that will fit together the axes must be trammed to one another.

  • @incubatork
    @incubatork 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Don`t apologise for fumbling, it reminds us all of our fumbling's as we have all done it one time or another. A set of ball nose allen keys are great for such occasions when you don`t have clear line of sight to a bolt. As to the hight of the motor can you not slacken of those partially hidden allen bolts in the profile that hold the blocks that run on the round track also the threaded rod holder and move the whole carriage up, that should give you more clearance.

  • @Roxann-gz3yg
    @Roxann-gz3yg 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for sharing this
    I've only just got mine and the vibration from the motor is horrendous at times
    The closer it gets to the middle of the carriage the worse it gets

    • @incubatork
      @incubatork 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Take the fan off and balance it by drilling small holes in the heavy side. There are a few videos on this.

  • @jeffhigh2
    @jeffhigh2 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You can lift the side pieces up do that they are only mounted with 1 row of holes then add another piece underneath to provide additional support. That will get you 20mm extra clearance. Also use the spacers under the stepper motor to lift the stepper up and stop the coupling fouling the Z mount. I did this too before a radical rebuild

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Jeff - if I put the spacers in the the threaded drive rod won’t sit in the bottom holder. Did you buy a longer rod or just not have as much rod and stepper motor spindle in the coupling?

    • @jeffhigh2
      @jeffhigh2 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes I bought a longer lead screw for the z even though it worked fine without reaching the bottom bearing. You need to get the right spec, it’s a T8 pitch 2mm, lead 4mm

  • @xierxu
    @xierxu ปีที่แล้ว

    Can the original cut through 1 inch plastic?

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes but not in one pass. You’d have to take a little off at a time and 1” feels like it would be the absolute max depth as the bits are not that long. Also, the type of “plastic” would make a huge difference.

    • @xierxu
      @xierxu ปีที่แล้ว

      @@sourlandwoodturning I have a problem when trying to start an operation. After have the tool touching the material to been cut and send the start command the spindle rises until it touched the switch. I can not get it to rise a little.

  • @djoleat
    @djoleat 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You are buying z-axe and that kit too ?

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I’ve added links into the description…good luck.

  • @caveman2182
    @caveman2182 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hello, this type of upgrade is used with bigger spindle e.g.. 300W, 500W or more. They have a bigger diameter about 52mm. This 775 spindle type has about 45mm diameter this is the reason why it is so loose. To make more clearance add two aluminium profiles on top of left and right profiles and fasten the z frame to this profiles.

  • @mariusd5913
    @mariusd5913 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    If your motor runs the wrong direction then just reverse your wire arrangement. That fixes the direction issue

  • @Aritonang6716
    @Aritonang6716 ปีที่แล้ว

    X shaft diameter how much milimeter sir?

  • @dalekubichek5710
    @dalekubichek5710 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Few items; at the end you moved the spindle motor in the mounting block, why? Did the spindle motor mount come with the Z-Axis or what is the P/N? Do you have the P/N for the 10mm-rod-guide-bushing-block so we could buy four more to replace the Y-axis-table-guides to improve stability of the table? Improving table stability would nearly make the whole 3018 all-metal.

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      All the parts that I purchased are linked to from the video notes - does that cover what you are looking for? Bottom line is that I just found the best deal I would on AliExpress which seemed to be the best value.
      Not sure why I moved the motor in the block, I'd guess to get the max clearance with it still being stable. It does seem to work well enough now though!
      I was more interested in getting the clearance than precision because I mill landscapes so no one can really tell!
      Hope that helps - it you can't see the link, LMK and I'll copy them to the comments.

  • @sonnymoorehouse1941
    @sonnymoorehouse1941 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Im just starting myself and I was looking at this Z upgrade. Great Video !!!! Thank you

  • @rynait
    @rynait 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    3:19 but Loctite is used to keep screws or nut from separating due to vibration. does not SUPPRESS vibration against motor or rigidity.

  • @kilodelta5251
    @kilodelta5251 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Spindle clamp is designed for a larger spindle than your standard one which is longer and wider

  • @dieterkrause1674
    @dieterkrause1674 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    the rods itself are unstable

  • @sonnymoorehouse1941
    @sonnymoorehouse1941 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    so gantry should be taller or could be taller

  • @stormnation6387
    @stormnation6387 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I think the travel height is more suited when using a laser

  • @au07au07
    @au07au07 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Which program do you use?

  • @ahmedmagdyelmonshed704
    @ahmedmagdyelmonshed704 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    nice setup, i believe that i haven't found out any of that on YT yet. you are the first to do it, great job. so the lock nut for the lead screw has 2 setup which is for if you have 10mm linear rod or 12mm. so you can set the anti back nut is the right place for it.
    For the clearance increase. you can have 2 aluminum extrusions of 20*20 or 20*40 and set them above the original 20*40 on the sides and raise the whole gantry to achieve the increase desired. i did with 15CM long only of 20*20 on top sides and gained the 20mm in the z clearance. no i have to get longer bits to get to bed. so i set if out for now.

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks! I raised the gantry this weekend and posted a video on that process too!

  • @toolchuck
    @toolchuck 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Andrew, I CNC too! Although I think I could carve your CNC on mine. 😜 Nice upgrade, more Z axis travel, but more importantly is the rigidity. That is the key to quality carving. You'll definitely see it in the details. Don't you hate it when if you would have just followed the manual it would have been so much easier. But then reading it would have help too, huh? LOL. Looking at the issue about losing clearance. You're trying to regain the thickness of the gold end on the Z axis carriage, right? Two options I see are, 1, replace the bed that is overly thick for the purpose at hand. It is as thick as my full-size CNC. You could look at replacing it with 1/4" -6mm ply or MDF and just screw/clamp your work to it. Then replace it as needed, it would be a sacrificial waist board at that point, but I think it would come close to getting that space back. 2, look at raising the gantry by relocating holes on the end pieces (front and back). It looks like you might have enough room to drill the holes up close to a 1/4"-6mm and get back most if not all the lost space back as well. I went to Banggood to get a better look, and if it's about 1/4"-6mm, I think either option would be close. Or, both??? Let me know what you think. Good luck, Chuck

    • @Marius_CNC_
      @Marius_CNC_ 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I have done to mine a Linear Rail job its verry strong now

    • @toolchuck
      @toolchuck 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Marius_CNC_ Nice, how about a video so we can see it? Don't leave us hanging!!! Even though I have a full-size CNC, I'm intrigued by these "micro" CNC's. You've opened my eyes to getting one of these for smaller projects but would really need it to be as capable and ridged as possible. So, I'm extremely interested in these upgrades and how well they perform. Thank you, Chuck.

  • @ratbagley
    @ratbagley 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice work!

  • @jaimerodriguez3864
    @jaimerodriguez3864 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice Video!!! Can i ask, where did you found the gantry? Can u leave a link to it?

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Jaime, thanks! If you're asking where I bought the upgraded pieces then they're all from AliExpress. They have loads of different ones on there but remember that you need the actual gold shuttle piece and also the parts that connect it to the rods, they're sold separately sometimes. Also, if you get the type I got with a universal plate then you'll need to buy the clamp for the spindle.

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      US $79.38 23% Off | CNC 3018 Pro X-Axis Upgrade Kit Suit CNC Router 3018 Pro with CNC Milling Machine Accessories Sliding Table
      star.aliexpress.com/share/share.htm?image=Ud1a6982ba86946a491da56518830b35ae.jpg&businessType=ProductDetail&title=US%20%2479.38%20%2023%EF%BC%85%20Off%20%7C%20CNC%203018%20Pro%20X-Axis%20Upgrade%20Kit%20Suit%20CNC%20Router%203018%20Pro%20with%20%20CNC%20Milling%20Machine%20Accessories%20Sliding%20Table&platform=AE&redirectUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2F1005002352231582.html%3F%26srcSns%3Dsns_Copy%26tid%3Dwhite_backgroup_101%26mb%3DjkqwjKoRXMLGRVr%26businessType%3DProductDetail%26spreadType%3DsocialShare

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      This was for my spindle size...
      US $4.22 10% Off | Aluminum alloy spindle motor base clamp / fixing bracket, inner diameter: 40mm 42mm 45mm-80mm Engraving machine accessories
      star.aliexpress.com/share/share.htm?image=U70b798958e714b3896a3f71924c422e8R.jpg&businessType=ProductDetail&title=US%20%244.22%20%2010%EF%BC%85%20Off%20%7C%20Aluminum%20alloy%20spindle%20motor%20base%20clamp%20%2F%20fixing%20bracket%2C%20inner%20diameter%3A%2040mm%2042mm%2045mm-80mm%20Engraving%20machine%20accessories&platform=AE&redirectUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2F4000689108534.html%3F%26srcSns%3Dsns_Copy%26tid%3Dwhite_backgroup_101%26mb%3DjkqwjKoRXMLGRVr%26businessType%3DProductDetail%26spreadType%3DsocialShare

    • @jaimerodriguez3864
      @jaimerodriguez3864 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@sourlandwoodturning I mean, not only the holder but the whole gantry. The whole Z axis assembly you installed.

    • @sourlandwoodturning
      @sourlandwoodturning  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jaimerodriguez3864 That’s the gantry that came with the standard 3018 that I had. I didn’t do anything to the gantry although in a later video I d raise it up 20-40mm for clearance.
      The 3018 that I have was bought from eBay for $140 including shipping as it was an open box.

  • @JiMBrnd
    @JiMBrnd 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Andrew, your video was exactly what i needed to know about while figuring how to improve the Z mount/carriage. Thanks for sharing!

  • @SergeiPetrov
    @SergeiPetrov 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    It is best to use plastic interference fit extended nuts on all feed screws. They don't have a game at all. The nuts can be hammered into metal pipes for rigidity.
    Feed screws must be placed on the thrust bearings.
    And instead of these posts, attach two metal plates to the sides over the entire length and height of the machine frame.
    The same plate will come in handy on the back of the cross beam.