The disc to hub bolts are 121nm or 89ft lbs. Not 250+ You're actually supposed to replace the seal and bearing prior to installation, fill the hub cavity with axle lube and then coat the spindle & hub seal with axle lube. In no part of the Ford manual did it say to put axle grease on anything. I just watched this for visual reference and was kinda shocked by the amount of mistakes.
Super clear video and especially good 'pointers', thank you!! I begin my 2000 F350 Dually rear rotors, calipers & pads replacement today. Gonna spray some VHT paint on rotor hub portion to help prevent future corrosion too. This will be my 1st complete & total Dually rear brake job. Exciting! You're making it easier for me! Fun too!! THANKS!
I was a little skiddish about doing it ALL when I first tore the rear calipers off. Pads had disintegrated on driver's side due to stuck caliper & the rotor was destroyed! At 68 & retired, I decided I have nothing but time on my hands, so here we go! Everything will be 'new' so I don't have to worry about it again. THANKS for your mentorship to get me moving on this! Scott
no prob, its just like anything else that we know nothing about, one part at a time, stare at it for a moment and understand what its job is. then the next part. if a man made it, scott can sure fix it, ha. thanks again buddy!!!!
I was getting ready to pay someone to do it once I took the axle out but than I said "why not try to TH-cam it?" I'm parked outside the parts store right now abut to buy the parts (I hope they have them) and do it myself! Thanks for the video !
Straight from Ford Factory manual rear hub to rotor bolts 89 ft lbs. So yeah telling people 350 from an impact is hilarious. Also main hub nut is 70 ft lbs to set bearing then back off 90 degrees then retighten to 15-20 ft lbs. Also torques do depend on if you have the Dana axel as those are just a tad bit more. Good luck.
Nice, this confirms what I figured was involved to replace my rotors on my RV workhorse w22 chassis. Shops charge two arms and a leg for this work and I like doing it myself.
Good video showing the breakdown of everything. Proper torque specs found in comments. 90ftlb on rotor, 3 1/4" bearing lock nut initially 50ftlb and back off 1/2 turn, then finally 20ftlb.
I'm not sure what rear end it was. I found the specs in the comments. The best way to be sure is to check the play with a dial indicator afterwards. I think it was .001-.006 range.
Great explanation thank you, I've always worried about setting the axle nut correctly.... I toasted the bearings on a guys tow truck one time and I've always had the thought in the back of my mind when doing these since.
A grade 10.9 bolt with a 15mm head will likely have at most a 12mm, typically a 10mm, bolt diameter and the max torque of a 12mm bolt in that grade is 135ftlbs. I also looked at the Ford Service manual and did not see 350ftlbs anywhere on any of the brake components. It states brake disk to hub bolts on a F550 is 89ftlbs Just be careful giving out torque specs unless you are certain. That's a liability thing.
ha ha , you got it. keep reading though you will find it. bigger liability if that thing comes off. hahaha thanks for watching and for your research time.
So you are tryin to tell people to put 250+ torque on parts that only call for around 77 and that’s not even the correct way to install a hub nut because you should spin the hub some while you tighten it to be sure the bearings are all lined up and it should be tightened to around 70 on torque and back off around 90 degrees to be sure the bearing pressed in place then tightened again to no more than 20 on torque to be done correctly
Do you think I can wiggle out a Wheel Stud without having to remove the brake rotor? Please let me know in anycase. Thanks in advance and Great Video! Thanks for telling us the sizes for tools required 🤟🏼
Thanks brother nice video,please i have a cuestion for a road service mechanic what is the labor cost for this type of job in new york any one have any ideal thanks
they are oil bath, you are correct. but if you are not pressing them, a little grease is great, kind of a break in. remember grease when heated becomes oil. causing little to no friction is what you want. do not over pack it, but ive always put a little on. thanks for watching.
The hub-to-disk bolts need to be 89 Ft lbs. Not 250+.. You need a torque wrench for that part or you'll have no idea how tight they are. The hub needs to be filled with axle lube, and the seal and bearing need to be replaced and wiped down with the same lube. Great visual reference video but there were lots of errors here.
Why are you putting grease on an oil bath lubed bearing? You state the bearing still has lots of grease on it from pre disassembly. I'm looking this up to figure out my own truck, but it either has oil or grease, it can't be both. Another video shows e-18 bolts to remove the rotor and you state 15MM. So now I know I need new tools just in case I find I have the e-18, once I get it apart.
The rotor bolts DO NOT need 250+ Ft. Lbs., that is way over spec and looking for trouble. All the ones I've looked up take 100 or 150 Ft.Lbs. depending on the axle type. If your gun really puts out 350 and you maxed it out you're in dangerous territory of having those break at some point. Best of luck.
Very good video But..... 1-no need to pack the bearing with grease. Those are lube with gear oil that I believe is synthetic because the way it smells. Before you put the outside bearing in fill the hub with oil. 2- I will not recommend torque the nut with a screwdriver or chisel. If you over torque it you will destroy your bearings and it can damage your spindle too. A cheap torque wrench and sockets will do. I hope you don't take it the wrong way man
not at all, every one is entitled to their opinion. let me ask you this, when replacing main bearings or crank bearings, do we not lube them in at least a white grease even though they get lubed with the engine oil, and when it breaks down rather quickly, it becomes oil. this is called pre lubing. this goes the same for these bearings. the initial turning of no lubrication will put 300 plus miles on it in the fist 2-5 rotations. as for torque specs, i agree with you, but i have being doing it so long, i just do it. however i am showing these videos to teach and i should be including the torque specs to insure they get theirs right. you make a good point there. thanks for the great comments, and for watching.
I'm doing this job today. I went to O'Reilleys, NAPA, Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply but none of them had a socket that big in stock or for rent. I ordered the socket from O'Reilleys (pn OTC 1909) for $32. It's an 8 point, 3 1/4" socket.
This is exactly what I needed. Detailed, simple instructions. How to take apart, what to expect, and how to put everything together. Sub'd.
great, thanks for watching
Get a socket don’t be a hack and use a chisel
You should not grease the bearing in a gear lube system. just lube the bearing with gear lube first
The disc to hub bolts are 121nm or 89ft lbs. Not 250+
You're actually supposed to replace the seal and bearing prior to installation, fill the hub cavity with axle lube and then coat the spindle & hub seal with axle lube. In no part of the Ford manual did it say to put axle grease on anything. I just watched this for visual reference and was kinda shocked by the amount of mistakes.
Super clear video and especially good 'pointers', thank you!! I begin my 2000 F350 Dually rear rotors, calipers & pads replacement today. Gonna spray some VHT paint on rotor hub portion to help prevent future corrosion too. This will be my 1st complete & total Dually rear brake job. Exciting! You're making it easier for me! Fun too!! THANKS!
sweet, good luck with it. i bet it looks good. thanks for watching.
I was a little skiddish about doing it ALL when I first tore the rear calipers off. Pads had disintegrated on driver's side due to stuck caliper & the rotor was destroyed! At 68 & retired, I decided I have nothing but time on my hands, so here we go! Everything will be 'new' so I don't have to worry about it again. THANKS for your mentorship to get me moving on this! Scott
no prob, its just like anything else that we know nothing about, one part at a time, stare at it for a moment and understand what its job is. then the next part. if a man made it, scott can sure fix it, ha. thanks again buddy!!!!
Your f350 is different...this is for 450-550 with s135 rear end ...code 98 on your door
I was getting ready to pay someone to do it once I took the axle out but than I said "why not try to TH-cam it?" I'm parked outside the parts store right now abut to buy the parts (I hope they have them) and do it myself! Thanks for the video !
Straight from Ford Factory manual rear hub to rotor bolts 89 ft lbs. So yeah telling people 350 from an impact is hilarious. Also main hub nut is 70 ft lbs to set bearing then back off 90 degrees then retighten to 15-20 ft lbs. Also torques do depend on if you have the Dana axel as those are just a tad bit more. Good luck.
No silicone on axle cover when putting the axle back in? How fast did that oil leak? Was it a mess?
Did you have to put any gear oil for what came out when you removed the axle?
Nice, this confirms what I figured was involved to replace my rotors on my RV workhorse w22 chassis. Shops charge two arms and a leg for this work and I like doing it myself.
How do you put back oil that dropped off when you took driveshaft out ?
Thanks! Your hard work teaches a lot of us.
very useful video,thank you,im going to replace on my 2002 e450 this week.should be the same i guess.
Good video showing the breakdown of everything. Proper torque specs found in comments. 90ftlb on rotor, 3 1/4" bearing lock nut initially 50ftlb and back off 1/2 turn, then finally 20ftlb.
Correction; 70ft.lb on 3 1/4" to start, then back off 90 degrees, then final torque no more than 20ftlb.
@@SGaryNinja doing same. Thing to my 2019 have the 3 1/4 nut where did you find this information.? What rear? Thanks! I know I'm late lol
I'm not sure what rear end it was. I found the specs in the comments. The best way to be sure is to check the play with a dial indicator afterwards. I think it was .001-.006 range.
@@SGaryNinja for in and out of the rotor axle? What tolerance is measured?
I don't remember if it was in/out or up/down play that was measured. Have to do some internet research to find the info again. Sorry!
Did the rear brakes change much since 2000? I am having a hell of a time finding brake parts.
Thank you! Exactly what i needed!!
Great explanation thank you, I've always worried about setting the axle nut correctly.... I toasted the bearings on a guys tow truck one time and I've always had the thought in the back of my mind when doing these since.
bien echo , suficiente información grasias
Do you not have to seal the axle plate with rtv?
Thank you I'm going to do it on my 2008 f450 tomorrow
perfect, please let us know how it goes, every small piece of info, helps others. thanks for watching.
Outstanding video all around. Thank you good sir.
Why not put in new bearings when doing the pads and rotors ?
i just love the new wheel seal hi replaced
Hi is same procedure on the 03 f550 ???
REALLY GOOD VIDEO "MAYBE YOU SHOULD HAVE MENTIONED THE "OIL SLINGER RING"; I LEARNED ALOT,THANKS,PATRICK.P
A grade 10.9 bolt with a 15mm head will likely have at most a 12mm, typically a 10mm, bolt diameter and the max torque of a 12mm bolt in that grade is 135ftlbs. I also looked at the Ford Service manual and did not see 350ftlbs anywhere on any of the brake components. It states brake disk to hub bolts on a F550 is 89ftlbs
Just be careful giving out torque specs unless you are certain. That's a liability thing.
ha ha , you got it. keep reading though you will find it. bigger liability if that thing comes off. hahaha thanks for watching and for your research time.
the spec for tightening the spindle nut is 70ft lbs then back off 90 degrees then tighten to 18 ft lbs
Thanks, was wondering what the two different torque specs meant
This is the ratcheting style correct?
Do you not have safty jack stands?
You are the best keep making videos
i do them them for people like you! your the best, thanks for watching.
By the way great information thank you much
Thanks for the video is so good explanation save me a lot of time
you got it, thanks for watching jose
So you are tryin to tell people to put 250+ torque on parts that only call for around 77 and that’s not even the correct way to install a hub nut because you should spin the hub some while you tighten it to be sure the bearings are all lined up and it should be tightened to around 70 on torque and back off around 90 degrees to be sure the bearing pressed in place then tightened again to no more than 20 on torque to be done correctly
Thank you for sharing well done 👍
Did you have to add more gear oil to the rear end after reassembly?
Bobcat Legend, I just did mine today and didn’t lose much oil at all but it would never hurt to be sure that it’s topped off to be safe
Awesome, enjoyed the video man, you make it fun and fast!
thanks for watching.
Do you think I can wiggle out a Wheel Stud without having to remove the brake rotor? Please let me know in anycase. Thanks in advance and Great Video! Thanks for telling us the sizes for tools required 🤟🏼
yes, put a nut on it and hit it with a hammer. thanks for watching.
Go dude, Go. One fine video.
Thanks bro
Welcome
thanks man. my E350 had similar setup.
yes that is true it is, thanks for watching.
Thanks brother nice video,please i have a cuestion for a road service mechanic what is the labor cost for this type of job in new york any one have any ideal thanks
Thank you for such an informative video.
I think for the 05 f550 axle nut its a 3-3/8" 8-Point Octagon Locknut Wrench, maybe around 30 bucks
It's a 3.25" 8 point socket, OTC part number 1909
great video
Thanks man, doing it tomorrow!
perfect, thanks for watching.
an awesome video should be an auto shop teacher.
Ruben Hernandez no, he should not!
Thank you sir.
Very informational...
On dirt, without jackstands?
when the work needs done,,, you just do it. ha. all other locations were full. thanks for watching.
Gonna do it
is this rear axle the same as f 250? can you put double rotated on f 250 just by putting the f 350 cube and disk?
i do not think so, same, but a little different. however the concept is. do not be afraid to do it. thanks for watching.
thanks 👍👍👍👍
Good. Video. Thank. You.
MUY BUENO.. VERY GOOD..
thank you thank you.
are these not oil bath hubs? there should not be grease in them, but I could be wrong
they are oil bath, you are correct. but if you are not pressing them, a little grease is great, kind of a break in. remember grease when heated becomes oil. causing little to no friction is what you want. do not over pack it, but ive always put a little on. thanks for watching.
Great video man
thanks for watching!
If you don't have bearing grease then use some good rear oil
Good job buddy
You to replace the hub seal
No good can come from spraying brake cleaner into the axle tube...
Good video thx!
you got it rick, thanks for watching.
The hub-to-disk bolts need to be 89 Ft lbs. Not 250+.. You need a torque wrench for that part or you'll have no idea how tight they are. The hub needs to be filled with axle lube, and the seal and bearing need to be replaced and wiped down with the same lube. Great visual reference video but there were lots of errors here.
Great video!
thanks for watching.
Great video and superb instructions you sir are a mechanical coach, now I'm all set to play!🖒🖒🖒
When your steel turns blue it got really hot.
yes sir ...
Why are you putting grease on an oil bath lubed bearing? You state the bearing still has lots of grease on it from pre disassembly. I'm looking this up to figure out my own truck, but it either has oil or grease, it can't be both. Another video shows e-18 bolts to remove the rotor and you state 15MM. So now I know I need new tools just in case I find I have the e-18, once I get it apart.
15mm socket to pull axle bolts, e-18 to pull rotor off hub.
15/16 socket to remove brake caliper bracket, 16mm to remove caliper bolts
What did you end up using, I think the 2011 and newer have the e18 bolts for rotor to hub and they were 15mm in this video?
Thank You
Thanks
Good job
just paid $900 to have the same thing done on my wrecker
to do this job in canada at ford for new brakes, rotors and seals its about $2200
Andrew Draper how many labor hours did they charge for the rear brake job at Ford?
The rotor bolts DO NOT need 250+ Ft. Lbs., that is way over spec and looking for trouble. All the ones I've looked up take 100 or 150 Ft.Lbs. depending on the axle type. If your gun really puts out 350 and you maxed it out you're in dangerous territory of having those break at some point. Best of luck.
Check your specs, this one actually called for that. thanks for watching!
Very good video But.....
1-no need to pack the bearing with grease.
Those are lube with gear oil that I believe is synthetic because the way it smells.
Before you put the outside bearing in fill the hub with oil.
2- I will not recommend torque the nut with a screwdriver or chisel.
If you over torque it you will destroy your bearings and it can damage your spindle too.
A cheap torque wrench and sockets will do.
I hope you don't take it the wrong way man
not at all, every one is entitled to their opinion. let me ask you this, when replacing main bearings or crank bearings, do we not lube them in at least a white grease even though they get lubed with the engine oil, and when it breaks down rather quickly, it becomes oil. this is called pre lubing. this goes the same for these bearings. the initial turning of no lubrication will put 300 plus miles on it in the fist 2-5 rotations. as for torque specs, i agree with you, but i have being doing it so long, i just do it. however i am showing these videos to teach and i should be including the torque specs to insure they get theirs right. you make a good point there. thanks for the great comments, and for watching.
thanks sir
you got it, thanks for watching.
👍👍👍👍
Torque to 70 ftlbs back off 90 def torque 15 ft lbs
great vid, but I wish you would have shown installing the axle, instead of just talking about it....thanks....
next one i will, thanks for watching.
Hey GOVERNMENTCHEESE 411 how ya been buddy?
Please send mail.. need part or crank seal
thats funny cause my air jack gave out after i finished pass. side
114 foot pounds
Dont use a punch stupid thing to do buy the tool for it it's only $20 bucks save the nut
thanks for watching.
I'm doing this job today. I went to O'Reilleys, NAPA, Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply but none of them had a socket that big in stock or for rent. I ordered the socket from O'Reilleys (pn OTC 1909) for $32. It's an 8 point, 3 1/4" socket.
No 200 plus
Dont be a hack use a chisel
They sell a socket for that nut ... the stupid thing to do is use a Chisel to remove it... that's how you trash parts
You should always use the right tool for the right job, but if you are a good mechanic, and it's a situation like that, you can make it work