Spent my Sunday morning stripping and cleaning my bandit carbs but didn't split them so this vid was good to see how to. Having bike issues and this is a step to see if it helps to remedy my not running on all 4cly intermittingly.
I stripped my VT 500e Honda (One of the best bikes I ever owned) down to the wire and rebuilt it just so I would know the bike inside out if any problems developed later. I was a motorcycle courier and the bike was ridden hard every day so I expected trouble. In the three years I had the bike it did not fail me once though.
ty! bike was leaking from every possible place when i first bought it (why i got it so cheap) and i was able to figure them all out except that fuel rail in between the carbs. gonna go get that oring kit and be done with the headache of smelling like burnt fuel forever lol
I just came across one of your videos 2 days ago and ended up watching all. I think it is pretty cool. I just got a 1982 honda gl500 silver-wing. He said it was last running when stored away about 10 years ago. I live in new york so as most new yokers, don't have a garage. but i really have some good ideas for what i want to do. but might also need some consultation as this is going to be my first time working on a bike. like taking off and repairing/ cleaning the carburetor. How will i know if it needs cleaning or needs repaired.
eric addae Cool old bike! I love the silverwing and its cousin the CX500. Check out my CX500 restore video, its basically the same bike and it shows a lot about taking off carbs, etc. Message me if you have any specific questions
Currently just stripped down a 4 pack of carbs for my GSXf750 (katana) due to leaving with fuel in the tank for 12 months and going bad. Just need to find something to actualy clean the varnish out of the manifolds of the carb now.
Love the channel, helping me a lot. Question: When I accelerate when I hit a certain rpm the bike skips and sputters then continues to accelerate fine. It does this in first 3 gears. When it it sputters and backfires, my speedometer stops working properly and the digital trip-mile/tac turn off. Is it a carb issue or a vacume issure or electrical? My bike is 2004 Honda vtx 1300. It ran fantastic then just started to do that.
Its not a bad idea to sync the carbs every time you work on them, but this isnt really making any kind of adjustment or setting anything out of whack, so youd be ok without it
When taking the carbs off do u have to start from left to right ? Cuz I’m leaking from the right pipe on the carb to the far right carb I wanna knw can I just slide off the carb on the right instead of starting wit the carb on the left?
On most bikes the carbs are attached so they all need to detach from the bike together. However if you are asking can you slide off the right carb first from its rack in an online 4 carb set then the answer is yes
Hi I have vn800 and your vid gave me the strength to take out my carb and clean it out. One problem though my needle jet fell out and can't find it. I went in to jets r us to buy the needle jet but it has a few different sizes, how do determine the correct size. My carb is stock.
Hi i have been watching some of your vids and i have a question, i recently bought a 2006 cb600f and have a problem, when i start the bike it idles fine and i can turn off the choke, but after it has warmed up usually over 190 degrees farenheit, it will start to die when im stopped at a light, so i have to put thw choke back on so the rpm doesnt drop to low, i feel a carb cleaning would solve the problem but what esle could it be? If it something simpler that doesnt require disassembly of carb i would love to check that first and do a cleaning last.
jose jimenez A carb cleaning may help but it is important to isolate exactly what is causing the bike to stall before we start cleaning/replacing random parts. My suggestion would be to warm up the bike to the point that it is beginning to fail, and then test for the necessary components of internal combustion. At this temperature, is the spark failing? Is fuel failing to reach the cylinders? Are one or more of your cylinders experiencing low compression? Tests of this nature will help you determine what needs to be repaired
Yeah but I think its better to get an o ring assortment kit on ebay. Its only like 10 bucks you get 419 o rings of all different sizes. I use mine all the time
Hey Max, just a line to say hope all's well with you and to ask if you've any new ponies in your stable? Are you still a paramedic etc? Best wishes. Rog
Hey Roger yeah the reason I havent been doing many videos is Im working 60hrs a week as a paramedic for Washington DC. Im loving it and working my butt off, bikes are slowing down a bit but Im still doing projects, just picked up a pair of XJ750 yamahas that I was thinking about making into a short video
Thanks Max for the info I did what you surgested and started with the no spark on 1 pot.... I was always going to change the spark plugs and boots so i went ahead and did this and the bike runs now only to bring up more problems ....engine sounds really noisy.... and i still have the revving problem...I have noticed that the linkage on the carbs on the last 10mm or so it slows down and does not snap shut like it is sticking some where.....any ideas what that could be Max. Hope you are well Col from the UK
Thanks Max , i think it was in the throttle linkage at the handle grip, looks like someone had put it back wrong pinched it right at the end where the nipple is and not fit it in the groove, it is now frayed is this now better with a new cable? My its a noisy beast is there anything I can do to quieten the engine down....lol sounds like a bag of spaners Col from the UK
Colin J Fletcher Yeah a new cable should definitely be on order when it gets frayed. As far a noisy engine, if it is due to the fact that the muffler has been modified then thats a pretty easy fix. However if you have excessive engine noise originating from the engine itself, you may be in need of repair. Worn camchain, valves in need of adjustment, bad camchain tensioner, those are all far easier repairs than something like bad main bearings
Hi Max this is taxing me now....I feel like i am getting closer ever so slowly...I have now put a new throttle cable on and works a treat.... but I still have the high revving....it seams to be on the come down....when revving up revving goes up in an instant with the twist of the throttle but just as quick as you rev up you expect the revs to come down just as quick as you twist the throttle back....but no the revs come down slowly.....is this the diaphragms as i have always suspected the action and quality of slide action they have. Please help. Col from the UK
Colin J Fletcher It could definitely be the diaphragms, if you feel they are suspect then clean them again. Lots of other things could be causing this, if your linkage returns quickly then you can rule out problems with the throttle, cable, and linkage. One of the main reasons for engine surging and slow idle return however is an improper mixture, usually lean
I've got a Katana 750 and ended up cleaning the carbs twice last summer. (Dirty fuel + clean carbs = L O T S of swearing.) Anyways, I had no clue what I was doing and the second time through ended up not just splitting the carbs but disassembling them to bare throttle bodies. It saved the seals and plastic pieces around the butterfly shafts, but when I woke up in the morning the Yamaha dip had removed the coating from the throttle bodies. (There was a weird foam/film on top of the solution though) Any thoughts? It's a 2006 with the stock mikuni cv carbs.
+mrmaxstorey I have a 1985 Kawasaki vn700 (shaft). I bought a a few week ago and yesterday I filled the tank up and parked it in my garage. The next morning I went into the garage and noticed a rather large puddle of fuel under the bike. I checked the tank, no leaks. Fuel was seeping from the petcock (ordered a new one). I noticed that fuel was literally pouring from a hose that connects to the air filter housing. why would fuel be coming so liberally from the air filter housing?
+Angelo Tennerelli Gas is leaking from the petcock to the carbs, and then back into the air box and draining out the bottom of the airbox. You need to repair the petcock AND the carbs since they are also overflowing. I have lots of videos up for these repairs
mrmaxstorey Hey Max, I haven't dug in too much to find out much about your situation, but when will you get back up on youtube again? I honestly know you're surely busy and occupied with... LIFE, haha yeah, it happens I know. I just selfishly want to know because I absolutely love your videos. Especially owning an old GS suzuki (but thats not completely why). Cheers!
I know this is an old video, but it was very useful to see how it comes apart before diving in, especially how to fit the throttle springs. Thanks.
glad to help
You sure do make this look easy....great info as usual!
Thank you Max, another informative video, you're a superstar. :-)
exactly the video i was searching for 👍🏻 thanks
watching this to split some carbs to put on my Subaru motor going into my vintage Volkswagen, thanks for the help!
Spent my Sunday morning stripping and cleaning my bandit carbs but didn't split them so this vid was good to see how to. Having bike issues and this is a step to see if it helps to remedy my not running on all 4cly intermittingly.
I stripped my VT 500e Honda (One of the best bikes I ever owned) down to the wire and rebuilt it just so I would know the bike inside out if any problems developed later. I was a motorcycle courier and the bike was ridden hard every day so I expected trouble. In the three years I had the bike it did not fail me once though.
Thats great, Ive owned a bunch of Shadow 500s and Ascots and love them all
Always a Learning experience, Thank You very much.
ty! bike was leaking from every possible place when i first bought it (why i got it so cheap) and i was able to figure them all out except that fuel rail in between the carbs. gonna go get that oring kit and be done with the headache of smelling like burnt fuel forever lol
Your video's have help me out so much thanks for everything you have done bro
glad to help
Keep up the good work bro
Thanks for the informative video!
Thankyou great video really helpful ❤
Great video!
I just came across one of your videos 2 days ago and ended up watching all. I think it is pretty cool. I just got a 1982 honda gl500 silver-wing. He said it was last running when stored away about 10 years ago. I live in new york so as most new yokers, don't have a garage. but i really have some good ideas for what i want to do. but might also need some consultation as this is going to be my first time working on a bike. like taking off and repairing/ cleaning the carburetor. How will i know if it needs cleaning or needs repaired.
eric addae Cool old bike! I love the silverwing and its cousin the CX500. Check out my CX500 restore video, its basically the same bike and it shows a lot about taking off carbs, etc. Message me if you have any specific questions
Currently just stripped down a 4 pack of carbs for my GSXf750 (katana) due to leaving with fuel in the tank for 12 months and going bad.
Just need to find something to actualy clean the varnish out of the manifolds of the carb now.
+GrumsPlace Carb cleaner
Keep the videos coming.
Thank you for the video
cool vid max very helpful
Thank you.
Love the channel, helping me a lot. Question: When I accelerate when I hit a certain rpm the bike skips and sputters then continues to accelerate fine. It does this in first 3 gears. When it it sputters and backfires, my speedometer stops working properly and the digital trip-mile/tac turn off. Is it a carb issue or a vacume issure or electrical? My bike is 2004 Honda vtx 1300. It ran fantastic then just started to do that.
Electrical. Something is shorting out to your frame, causing your accessories to fail and your ignition system to fail momentarily
awww that makes sense! Thank you so much!
i think you should put a video on how to remove and re paint a motorcycle gas tank
nice one, thanks.
You don't have to do any throttle sync'ing after you attach the linkage to make sure they all open at the same time?
Its not a bad idea to sync the carbs every time you work on them, but this isnt really making any kind of adjustment or setting anything out of whack, so youd be ok without it
Hello Max I was just wondering what would be a good cheap motorcycle to start with. Thanks
Anything Japanese thats good and cheap
When taking the carbs off do u have to start from left to right ? Cuz I’m leaking from the right pipe on the carb to the far right carb I wanna knw can I just slide off the carb on the right instead of starting wit the carb on the left?
On most bikes the carbs are attached so they all need to detach from the bike together. However if you are asking can you slide off the right carb first from its rack in an online 4 carb set then the answer is yes
Hi I have vn800 and your vid gave me the strength to take out my carb and clean it out. One problem though my needle jet fell out and can't find it. I went in to jets r us to buy the needle jet but it has a few different sizes, how do determine the correct size. My carb is stock.
Vn800 Vulcan classic 2000
Look at the other one and see what size is in it
+mrmaxstorey the vn800 is only 1 carb not a rack
I see. My research shows the stock pilot jet is a 48
+mrmaxstorey ok thanks
Hi i have been watching some of your vids and i have a question, i recently bought a 2006 cb600f and have a problem, when i start the bike it idles fine and i can turn off the choke, but after it has warmed up usually over 190 degrees farenheit, it will start to die when im stopped at a light, so i have to put thw choke back on so the rpm doesnt drop to low, i feel a carb cleaning would solve the problem but what esle could it be? If it something simpler that doesnt require disassembly of carb i would love to check that first and do a cleaning last.
jose jimenez A carb cleaning may help but it is important to isolate exactly what is causing the bike to stall before we start cleaning/replacing random parts. My suggestion would be to warm up the bike to the point that it is beginning to fail, and then test for the necessary components of internal combustion. At this temperature, is the spark failing? Is fuel failing to reach the cylinders? Are one or more of your cylinders experiencing low compression? Tests of this nature will help you determine what needs to be repaired
Can you add in the o ring part
you can see it at the bottom of the screen at 6:25, just pop the old one off and put the new one on
I have the leak you mention at the fuel passageway. Can I get the O ring by itself?
Yeah but I think its better to get an o ring assortment kit on ebay. Its only like 10 bucks you get 419 o rings of all different sizes. I use mine all the time
Hey Max, just a line to say hope all's well with you and to ask if you've any new ponies in your stable? Are you still a paramedic etc? Best wishes. Rog
Hey Roger yeah the reason I havent been doing many videos is Im working 60hrs a week as a paramedic for Washington DC. Im loving it and working my butt off, bikes are slowing down a bit but Im still doing projects, just picked up a pair of XJ750 yamahas that I was thinking about making into a short video
mrmaxstorey Do you guys have paramedic bikes in DC like here in the UK? The BMW R1200RT seems to be the prefered choice here.
walkerrog25
No we don't but believe me I would be first in line
Thanks Max for the info I did what you surgested and started with the no spark on 1 pot.... I was always going to change the spark plugs and boots so i went ahead and did this and the bike runs now only to bring up more problems ....engine sounds really noisy.... and i still have the revving problem...I have noticed that the linkage on the carbs on the last 10mm or so it slows down and does not snap shut like it is sticking some where.....any ideas what that could be Max.
Hope you are well Col from the UK
The linkage might be impacting a carb boot clamp, or the cable is corroded, or the linkage itself is sticky and in need of some lubrication
Thanks Max , i think it was in the throttle linkage at the handle grip, looks like someone had put it back wrong pinched it right at the end where the nipple is and not fit it in the groove, it is now frayed is this now better with a new cable? My its a noisy beast is there anything I can do to quieten the engine down....lol sounds like a bag of spaners
Col from the UK
Colin J Fletcher
Yeah a new cable should definitely be on order when it gets frayed. As far a noisy engine, if it is due to the fact that the muffler has been modified then thats a pretty easy fix. However if you have excessive engine noise originating from the engine itself, you may be in need of repair. Worn camchain, valves in need of adjustment, bad camchain tensioner, those are all far easier repairs than something like bad main bearings
Hi Max this is taxing me now....I feel like i am getting closer ever so slowly...I have now put a new throttle cable on and works a treat.... but I still have the high revving....it seams to be on the come down....when revving up revving goes up in an instant with the twist of the throttle but just as quick as you rev up you expect the revs to come down just as quick as you twist the throttle back....but no the revs come down slowly.....is this the diaphragms as i have always suspected the action and quality of slide action they have.
Please help.
Col from the UK
Colin J Fletcher
It could definitely be the diaphragms, if you feel they are suspect then clean them again. Lots of other things could be causing this, if your linkage returns quickly then you can rule out problems with the throttle, cable, and linkage. One of the main reasons for engine surging and slow idle return however is an improper mixture, usually lean
Ok thanks
I've got a Katana 750 and ended up cleaning the carbs twice last summer. (Dirty fuel + clean carbs = L O T S of swearing.) Anyways, I had no clue what I was doing and the second time through ended up not just splitting the carbs but disassembling them to bare throttle bodies. It saved the seals and plastic pieces around the butterfly shafts, but when I woke up in the morning the Yamaha dip had removed the coating from the throttle bodies. (There was a weird foam/film on top of the solution though) Any thoughts? It's a 2006 with the stock mikuni cv carbs.
It's been a year and it runs ok btw. Just curious.
theprofessorfeather
Hey man, no harm no foul
+mrmaxstorey I have a 1985 Kawasaki vn700 (shaft). I bought a a few week ago and yesterday I filled the tank up and parked it in my garage. The next morning I went into the garage and noticed a rather large puddle of fuel under the bike. I checked the tank, no leaks. Fuel was seeping from the petcock (ordered a new one). I noticed that fuel was literally pouring from a hose that connects to the air filter housing. why would fuel be coming so liberally from the air filter housing?
+Angelo Tennerelli Gas is leaking from the petcock to the carbs, and then back into the air box and draining out the bottom of the airbox. You need to repair the petcock AND the carbs since they are also overflowing. I have lots of videos up for these repairs
Thanks man
The reason I'll try to split mines fzr1000 is because the linkage is zeized
hey max when will you be making anew video?
In a few months I reckon, currently in the middle of another move, this time we are buying a house
awesome still in same place?
LiveToRide
About 40 mins away, bought a farm on the bay
mrmaxstorey Hey Max, I haven't dug in too much to find out much about your situation, but when will you get back up on youtube again? I honestly know you're surely busy and occupied with... LIFE, haha yeah, it happens I know. I just selfishly want to know because I absolutely love your videos. Especially owning an old GS suzuki (but thats not completely why). Cheers!
Michael hayes
I know it man I really gotta get going again. I'll have a good sit down and brainstorm this week