CHEAP Plastic Parts Cost a Fortune to Repair! WHY?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2024
- Fixing plastic problems can be very expensive when all you want to do is use your heater or AC. See what's going on in your dash and why does it costs so much to repair. ➡️ Don't forget to check out @MrsWizardsWays and the latest batch of her custom 'Partworks' artworks on eBay thru 2/14/2024: www.ebay.com/usr/davidthecarw...
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#carrepair #carwizard #carmechanic #autorepairshop #automobile #cars #car #acura #carrepairs - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Manufacturers do NOT care. Toyota and Honda are not exempt from not giving a hoot either, once they sell you a car, it only has to last through the warranty specified period, after that, they could care less what happens.
Unfortunately that’s the sad reality of most things we buy nowadays
That's bullshit. I have a 2010 MDX which are known for bad piston rings which leads to oil burn. Honda paid for the whole repair of replacing the piston rings...the MDX had over 110,000 miles on it.
You are so right! As long as this plastic crap lasts for the 36 months warranty period, it’s all good for the manufacturer. When I dust clean under the hood of our Audi Q5, I see crazy amounts of plastic pieces. Almost as bad with our Genesis G80. Our daughter’s old Honda Civic, not so much. An ongoing disease that only will get worse, I guess.
Similar like putting a turbocharger on an undersized engine to save a few drops of gas. Later, when it fails, do the math, and you can purchase tons of gas for the cost of new charger job part & labor.
Thats why we need a government mandated 200,000 mile warranty.
That will clean up the automotive industry overnight.
My '96 Tacoma and Camry still have mechanical operation, with perhaps, some vacuum functions on the Camry. My '98 Altima has electric actuators but they're still working after 26 years and 230K. Maybe Nissan used better quality plastic back then!
One reason cars only last 13-15 years, 150,000-200,000 miles. Repairs cost more than value of car
They list 'high mileage' on the oil containers at 125,000 Km. Give me a break. But they are ALL DOING THIS.
I get 300 -450 out of all my Dodge caravans 3.2 L V6 engines.
Crown Vics last forever
@@luckyguy600if you have lots of “Caravans” sorry about that
@@MJA5they're so cheap you can have a van to match every outfit.
@@pantherplatform I have never owned one, but that is what I hear about the Crown Vics.
Every car should have a rating for repair accessibility. The price of cars is not just the sticker it’s the repair bills down the line, where for dealerships they make the real money. It seems that the behind the dash repairs are by far the most expensive, barring the removal the entire engine for something. For the car companies and dealerships, a quote from Upton Sinclair: "It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends on his not understanding it."
It’s called TCO, Total Cost of Ownership. Factors in fuel costs too.
The real problem is that when automobile manufacturers call for tenders to make parts, they always choose the cheapest tender! With critical parts from hard to access parts, the "polymer" used can be formulated to resist heat, deteriation from excess use etc. Auto manufacturers will not pay for high quality properly designed and formulated plastic parts!
@@alexgallacher5720 why should they? Those would just be more good parts in the junkyard. There certainly needs to be a better balance, but the 4th and 5th owners of cars aren’t going to fix them anyway. They’re going to toss them and get another beater for the same price as fixing the old one.
Haynes and others should have followed iFixit for repair rating since they take time taking an entire car apart to make a repair manual. Consumer guide in the 70's have rate the vehicles for under hood access. Unfortunately a lot people are less willing to work on their own cars than in the past.
If the repairability number was promoted more heavily it could even cause some change in the industry.
In the old days, metal levers controlled vents and temperature blend door. A/C compressor was manually operated. Simple was great.
I prefer simple. No need for overcomplicated hvac controls, especially when they are buried in the UI of a touch screen.
And the heater/AC box was under the hood on the firewall.
Ahhh those were the good old days and I sure miss them. 😪
Yeah, that was so much easier to replace broken components. Now in most cars you've got to rip the dash out for what should be a simple blower motor change.@@safffff1000
Stay away from premium luxury models, and go back to the '90s and earlier, which is when all of mine were built!
My 2008 Scion Xb uses human power for mode and temperature. It does not have actuators, nor does it have automatic temperature control. Too cold, rotate the knob, too hot, turn it the other way. Don’t like the mode, turn the knob and move the doors yourself!
This is so simple, it has not failed and it is not a bother. It is how it used to be. The luxury this car offers is simplicity and the time and money it saves.
I drive a 1971 International Harvester 2 wheel drive pick up...3/4 ton ...No one has had to touch this great All-American vehicle since I bought it over 12 years ago.....K I S S rule along with basic engineering and it runs forever....(within reason of course) I also have an older 2004 Odyssey ...have to admit this van is made and designed very well...all I do is basic maintenance and I am approaching 200k and she runs beautifully...
2008? Manual hvac controls? Yeah, no. The knobs either are connected to a sensor that sends a signal to a motor that turns them, or they are vacuum controlled, in which case you still have a failure chance if the blend door gets stuck
Yup my moms 07 Yaris is the same way
My third gen MR2 was like this, lovely car miss it lots
Those are better, but eventually the cable will seize up and the knob will break, or the plastic connection point on the door will weaken and break and you'll be in the same boat.
2:44 Of course The Wizard knows how to use the 3 seashells ;)
Toilet Paper is best
Lol
I bet 90% of people didn't catch this one haha😂
@@organiccold Don't be so sure...Demolition man was a pretty popular movie!
Yes, but I bet his fingers stink!
I had an automotive repair shop for 40 years, retired in 2017, and we've seen similar cases.
One I can still visualize was a VW Cabrio with a blown heater core.
Gave the customer an estimate how much it would cost to replace and they freaked out, but after giving them a thorough explanation what was involved, including removal of dash, steering wheel etc. they gave the go ahead.
I told them I would give them a call when the heater box was out of the car and they could come and take a look at it, they came and could not believe their eyes, dash out steering wheel off, all the wiring harnesses hanging down, the top was down so they had a great view. They took pictures of the mess and said " How are going to get all that together ??".
Of course we had great techs. and it all went back together fine and we had that customer for quite a few more years.
But this is going to show how much work there can be to replace a relatively inexpensive part.
BTW,
A lot of years ago my personal car was a Peugeot 505 Turbo, we never had to do one but the heater core in that car
would not have taken more than one hour to replace, so much for French engineering.
We had the same with Golf VR6 it cost 12 Grand to repair and took a month a 3 technicians
I´m driving Peugeot 308 from 2008. and recently I had to change heather core. I was surprised how easy is to take it out, and to replace it. One plastic cover to remove, two hoses and there you are. It is absolutely genially engineered.
@@srdjanrapaic3184Yes, my 505 was similar, isn't funny how people brag about German engineering, I think the French are way smarter, just think of the Citroen DS models how ingenious they were.
Some '80s Fords were like this. Remove glove-box & rear-cover from heater-box, disconnect 2 under-hood hoses, and just slide out the heater-core.
78 Ford LTD Landau heater core took about 10 minuites
My old 1995 Ford Thunderbird odometer stopped working after 9 years and 108k miles. Got a price at a local odometer/speedometer repair shop, about $350+ tax. I could get the small plastic worm gear for $45. Overpriced for sure, but that little worm gear...had lost at least 5 teeth so it no longer could spin to make the odometer work. I got some great instructions on how to take the Thunderbird dash apart and set aside a Saturday for the repair. About 90 minutes to properly pull the gauge cluster and once I had that out, I pulled the odometer module and replaced the failing gear. Cleaned things up inside there as well. Took another hour to replace things. I may have put 5k miles on it without the odometer working, I did not adjust it to what I thought the miles were. The odometer worked great for the next 4 years of driving the car. Good experience to learn patience and going slow on things to avoid breaking any other clips/plastic parts.
What really?!! You can get those super cheap. I have a 89 tbird SC. Ppl try to charge a little more for those but not 300+ dollars. That's insane.
Back in the mid summer of 2021 I pretty much did the same thing and changed out my instrument gage lights to LED's for my 1995 SN-95 Stang GT and thanks to U-Tube videos & DIY instructions I managed to do it myself and it really was not that difficult either! 👌💪🛠
@@Turshin The $350 was what a shop was going to charge, I did it myself for the overpriced amount of $45. LOL
@@diegosilang4823 Wow! Kudos to the rebuilding skills!!
I have a 1968 Cutlass and it got 2 worm gears broken for the odometer, I search for specifically for Cutlass, Chevelle or other GM A bodies, I cant find an exact replacement. Then I found a metal worm gear from a Corvette part store on eBay, it turns out a lot of GM speedometers made from 1953-1977 shared the same worm gear. It cost $56 USD for two worm gears and shipping cost. That is cheaper than buying a new speedometer for $300.
The clogged filter can also freeze up your evaporator for your AC if it’s not changed too!
And burn the turbine blower. On Peugeot. 😂
I have a 2014 F150 FX4. It has about 107k miles. Recently the gear that is attached to an actuator motor on the blend door broke. The plastic gear fell into the fan cage and made it out of balance. I assumed the fan itself had failed so ordered one for $50 from Rock Auto. When I pulled the motor out the plastic gear was found. Found several TH-cam videos showing what repair was needed. As you have pointed out before, requires pulling most of dash out. Some people had estimates of over $2k from Ford dealers. I ended up putting the door in fresh air position and put old motor back in. Won't be able to do recirc air, but am not paying that outrageous cost. Terrible design that the gear is made of plastic which over time will get brittle and break
Yep like he's saying plastic everything and I don't care what the price of the vehicle was. In my 2000, F350 truck with the manual tranny the hydraulic clutch actuator was guess what.. PLASTIC! It failed and I could not DISENGAGE the clutch and here I am sitting in a gueue at a traffic light! And this is a diesel so the brakes will NOT hold the vehicle when the clutch is engaged even at idle! yeah I turned the key off to stop the truck or I would have smashed the vehicle in front of me!
sorry, f.o.r.d. = fix or repair daily = ford
I replaced the air blender motor, a mere $20 FOMCO part and 1.5hrs to replace. There’s not much to it aside the mid-center console removal, Pass SRS bag. The motor was a PITA, had to order a mini stubby 8mm ratchet to get the bolt/screw that faces the firewall. 👎🏻
2004 GM Tahoe here … these HVAC actuators brought back some bad memories.
The truth is you can buy them so cheaply online (and they're cheaply made) that I am treating them as consumables as I figured a way to replace them without taking the dash out.
What's worse is that the rear HVAC modules were known to be defective, so the updated OEM replacement modules (no longer made) are like gold in the used market.
Ya. Throw nothing away/ or buy two, one for a lifetime of parts.
Yeah… I’ve been tempted to make an adaptor board that goes between the motor and will cut it off at a lower amperage than the HVAC control system
HVAC for cars used to be like lawn mower handle controls, or how most hood latches still operate; with long thick spring steel wires sliding back and forth in ferrules. Controls would still break, usually at some plastic vent or lever part, but it was a lot easier and cheaper to diagnose and fix. Plastic and longevity are mutually exclusive.
@Benzley722 Yup. In 40 years of driving, I've had one throttle cable stick on the cheapest, cheesiest car I ever had: A 3 cylinder, 1988 (Suzuki) Chevy Sprint. Water somehow dripped onto the throttle cable and froze. As soon as I hit the gas it screamed at a few thousand RPM. I shut the car off and broke the ice off and it never did that again.
As a Manufacturing process engineer I recall 20 years ago all the excitement about DFM (Design for Manufacturing). This concept emphasized that design engineers work each part to design the consideration of how it's held, machines and assembled during the manufacturing process to reduce manufacturing line failure modes and increase quality. With Solid works software and AI if only the next new Engineering focus was Design for Repairability. But I doubt that will ever happen. EV's are designed to just be replaced if the smallest things happen to them. Farmers replacing there own parts on tractor equipment is being argued in State Congress and Federal government. Crazy..
Why would anyone be concerned about farmers? Are you assuming that they're eaters? Not everyone has to eat. I drink used oil, recycle, reduce, reuse. I also eat pinecones and deposit them out the business end in random places in public parks in broad daylight. I'm exercising my trenchcoat squatter rights for the sake of offsetting my carbon credit tax. It really sucks how God messed up, that fact the we expel carbon dioxide and trees use that for their inhale, I'm not "trying" to complete the loop in a perfectly designed ecosystem, but I sure do feel guilty about it. I never gave any plants my written permission to thrive off my excrement, solid, liquid or gas. I was planning on piling it up and selling it at the entrances of EV dealerships so the customers could see and smell the true quality of their new investments.
Yep, right to repair is essential.
@@radleybradford1356It’s funny how the guy above agrees with you but somehow I can’t help but read this as if you’re a schizophrenic 😂
@@radleybradford1356 Just embarrassing brain dead drivel. Got to love people with 4th grade science education who don't understand how excess CO2 works in the world, and the same people demonstrating they have absolutely not a faintest idea how EV's work, yet feel the incessant need to demonstrate their utter clueless on a daily basis...
"EV's are designed to just be replaced if the smallest things happen to them" That simply isn't the case. The reason EV's get written off after collisions is insurance company paranoia as there isn't a process yet to verify if the batteries were damaged.
I have fixed several things on my EV and things like dash components, lights and many other repairs are the same as any combustion engine car.
I remember back in the 1960s the heat valve and heat door had steel cables going to them. Just give them a shot of spray oil every 50,000 miles. Or do like most customers did to them, NOTHING! These cables were like the throttle cable on lawnmowers. Simple and bulletproof.
Except when the valve corroded solid! Mine froze in the "hot" position, so I had heat or I had nothing. I was happy to open the windows when I didn't need heat, though.
Back in the 1960s when 50k miles was the extent of car's life
My grandmother had the same stove for 50 years…. Everything today is designed to fail so you get to keep buying
All while they simultaneously steal your freedom under the guise of “sustainability” 😀
I remember back in the 1960s (and before) too. Those cables were crap. No one would put up with them today, and you would have to have a bunch of them to work a modern AC/Heater system.
49 Chevy had a choke. Pull to start. Auto choke what's that? Yep it had a steel cable from your dash right to the carb.
The metal levers on stocks in the dash seemed to work well enough in the old days.
You see the problem lol lasts=bad
I had to do this repair on my Lexus RX. Vent flaps weren't working. Only took 20 minutes. Depends on the car cause this will happen to any car. My old Toyota has cables so that will never break. Still working 29 years later.
Chevrolet Impalas, especially the 2006-2013 model years are known to have those issues. I remember working at a local GM dealer and probably 50 percent of the time I got inside one of those it would sound like a woodpecker trapped in the dashboard when I started it up.
Yup, and next to nobody ever fixed them.
I replace both the driver and passenger side actuators in my '09 impala. Def wasn't a fun task to do myself lol
Don't even have to start the damn thing just open the door and click click click click we use to have the running joke at an old shop I worked at that we're getting them too excited to the point they beat off in the dash😂😂
and sometimes bad actuator would randomly make that noise. I had the one that controls the big center vent go not once, not twice, but three times before I said fuck it and just left it unplugged I would plug it in 2 times a year to open or close that vent LOL. The dealer quoted me like almost 400 bucks parts and labor to get to that one as it is way up in the dash behind the glove box near the pass airbag and they have this HUGE thick harness cable hindering the access of it. the ones that control the L and R vents are just behind the radio and FAR easier to get to as I had to replace so far only one of them the other one is still the factory part and working fine (knock on wood).
Every time I get in my 2012 Impala I get to hear a wonderful clicking noise that last about 15 seconds. Other than that little issue I love these cars. 300hp, 6 speed auto and 4 doors what's not to love?
I agree plastic sucks .
That white "plastic" of those teeth on the cogs SHOULD be a "nylon"
There is expensive hard wearing nylon (think Nylon66 firearm by Remington) or cheap crappy nylon....
guess which one the car manufacturers choose?
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Must be the good nylon, as none of the problems with the Acura were the gears, despite it being 15 years old. It was all motor failures...
wrong, cheap plastic sucks
and running everything through computers that need resetting/ relearning.
Just plain stupid.
Planned obsolescence dude.
Old and simple is best.
@@luckyguy600 There is no such thing as planned obsolescence, the entire term is just facepalm levels of stupid.
What people call planned obsolescence is an item that is designed to last 10 years instead of 20 years.
But, people keep ignoring the fact that making things last longer does cost money, and in most cases money the buyer and consumer simply isn't willing to pay.
The predominant factor for people choosing cars, appliances and other products is price. Which again is why people mass purchase cars like Hyundai's and Kia's despite them being basically cheap garbage.
So, people keep whining things don't last as long, and are no longer Made in the USA, but when given the choice, still buy the cheapest junk Made in China at every opportunity.
So, people are all about demanding quality, but they are not at all about to pay for quality if it costs more than cheap junk.
14:32 It's about cutting losses, not about winning one over on anyone. When a vehicle gets older, it's hard to justify spending $1,000+ on one repair knowing that there could be another $1,000+ repair soon after.
The old car has one less problem, after you fix the defective part. I could be wrong but i don't think that fixed part will fail again. The newer one, has a host of problems waiting to happen.
Could be but its probably still a LOT cheaper than having a $1000/mo payment for the next 7 years.
I appreciate your expertise and honesty on every different job your shop does,i wish i lived closer cause your shop would get my business
That's why I only make HVAC changes with the blower on low. It puts way less stress on the motor, gears, and flap hinges. Also turn the fan to low before shutting the vehicle off. So on start up when it is moving flaps. The blower is on low.
Now that's just being ridiculous. Do you also make sure to never roll the window all the way up or down to prevent the motor from a current spike?
@@bigqwertycathonestly yes I try to time it perfectly 😅
about 2 minutes before you reach your destination, turn the AC off and let the fan blow to warm up the evap above dew point so it's not damp after your turn the car off
Great idea. The less something hasta move the longer its gonna last especially when its plastic.
I loved Fords and Buicks back in the day. No longer. I drive a Lexus GS350 F Sport and my wife has a Camry. Her older Camry is such a pleasure to work on. With the 4 cyl. engine, it took me around half an hour to change ALL the spark plugs. That was taking my time. I'd mention the ease of working on the Lexus but it doesn't break. I did replace a vent on it that had a cracked fin when I bought it. 4 screws and an EBay replacement vent and it was done. American manufacturers had better wise up if they want to keep their market shares.
Which year Camry does your better half have?
I’m sure there is no ease of working on the Lexus
*hasnt had rear bank ignition coil fail*. You just get to fix this rubbish as it breaks. But yes, certain things will absolutely suck to fix on the Lexus.
They are all mechanical devices and will eventually also fail. Wizard even said it can happen to Toyota too
Yeah they're top rated by Consumers Report too. Unfortunately I can't afford the initial expense being on a fixed income.
Makes me glad to have a base model 2015 Honda Fit, which still uses a cable or linkage to move the mode doors rather than those little motors.
Those can fail too my brothers prelude did.
@@waterloo123100 Nothing is exempt from failure. It just lessens the chance of it.
Had a first gen Jeep Grand Cherokee back in the day. The DIY fix to repair the blend door (the door shaft itself would break) was to cut an opening in the HVAC box, replace the door and seal up the hole you cut. Otherwise it was a dash out job.
Yep same thing in the 2nd gen.
People are also cutting holes in the Jeep Wranglers to replace the evaporator core, which is dash out. As a bonus, they don't even make the core anymore, so you have to put in a used one after taking the dash out.
2013 JGCL. HVAC is completely F'ed right now. Going to try to fix it myself. Will sell if I can't. 170K on it when it all went to hell. Mechanics are saying dash out to fix. 1500 to 2k to do that.
@@watchthis401 Yeah, you have my sympathy there.
But, at 170k miles, it probably isn't worth spending $1500 to $2000 to get that fixed, as a lot of other expensive failures are pending.
You can get a 2015 with 29k miles for $15k. Subtract the $2k to fix the A/C issue and a few thousand more for future problems, and pretty soon you have spent the same amount of money for a car with 140k more miles...
That’s a hack Job it’s not very hard to pull the dash on those 😂
The look on Wizards face when he heard the loud exhaust was priceless. I’m with you bud, people here is a public service announcement….99% of us really do not want to hear your loud exhaust. I promise…we don’t.
As an old hot rod guy. I'm guilty of liking loud exhaust's. Weather it be mine or another car guy's... or girl's.
@@williamparker2922 I don’t mind a well done exhaust, well done being key. People running around with engines that sound like they have cheap glass packs and open exhaust with no idea of how to engineer a proper exhaust…no thanks. It’s irritating on a good day.
I don't do it for you.
@@Arrozconchopsticks You must be a real treat to live with. Wild guess, you drive a hemi….
@@hokie9910 not even close. My "loud cars" aren't even as loud as some others cars.
I had a 2010 Lincoln MKT. It had 3 zone climate control. The motor that controls the temperature on the passenger side went out. It would only blow hot air. The shop wanted 1200 to replace a 50 dollar motor because their repair manual suggested tearing the whole dash out. I was able to locate it by pulling the glove compartment out and replaced the part myself.
A long time ago I had a dodge pickup with a 318 engine. The blower motor was bolted to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine. You could change it in about 5 minutes. But that blower motor never did fail.
As a real mechanic when someone says “5 min repair.”
I know you’re ignorant.
Because I dare you to set a timer and even FIND THE TOOLS to replace it in 5 min
@@fastinradfordable 7/16 nut driver. Had 4 nuts holding it on. Nut drivers were in the top drawer of my craftsman rolling tool chest. Had the tool in my hand and removing a nut within 10 seconds. Was a mechanical engineer at Chrysler for 31 years. Worked as a mechanic in high school and college. Owned Chryslers my whole life. Dad worked at Chrysler. Rebuilt the transmissions (904, 727, 833), engines, and axles. Raced on Gratiot and Woodward on the weekends. Roadrunners, challengers, and chargers. Could not afford the 426 hemi. That was back in the 1960s.
Good video and subject matter. While I was working in a used car service center I became VERY familiar with blend door actuators. The telltale CLICK CLICK CLICK on the Dodges and Chevy Malibu. And then the Ford trucks that we had to take out the whole dash for.
Thank you for a great video. Your honesty is always appreciated. Telling it like it is. We all should prepare ourselves for this kind of repair.
Wizard, thanks for the explanation of this problem, very helpful. No wonder Hoovie brings you all of his cars! I wish my mechanic could explain things this well. It's a skill and does take time that they can't bill you for, except how do you put a price on a loyal and returning customer!
Thank you for the consistent quality! Appreciated 👍
It was a common problem in older Mercedes. I had a C320 sportcoupe and one day it just started the 30 second knocking sound at startup every time. I lived with it for a while but finally got the broken plastic parts replaced.
The problem with the motors is the brushes wear out. 50 cent parts that only have a short service life.
In the taxi company i work for, the boss uses Ford Explorers exclusively and when the A/C temp valve door fails, you guessed it, you have to take out a bunch of the dash in order to get to the stupid plastic device.
Had the gear teeth issue on my 07 Toyota matrix for the fresh air/recirc flapper. I ended up unplugging years ago. Seasonally I will drop the glove box and stick my hand up in the dash to open or close the door!
Another great video sir!
Many people don’t understand the cost associated with these type of components that are hidden somewhere…
I was told that on my 2003 BMW 330xi 5 speed that to replace the heater motor would be 1,000s of dollars and the joke was the heater motor was suspended by lasers and the car was built around it…so I lived with one speed not working for many years.
Glad it did not die completely.
I know BMW means expensive repairs but based on my 12 years of ownership and 120k mile I replaced 1 alternator and a window regulator.
Was I lucky … yes. .. will I buy another one … 🤔 no way.
I like my Lexus 😅 it just runs!
Not that it matters now, but if it's just one speed that doesn't work, that's almost always a problem in the speed selector switch or associated resistors. Probably no need to yank out the blower motor.
My car does all these functions 100% mechanically and still works 30 years later.
What car do u have??!
@@user-ue4qm3lm8e 1992 Camry.
My 2000 Dodge Neon has none of these problems. It just works
@@user-ue4qm3lm8e1992 Toyota Camry
@@scottlarsh3119Right.. now I'm calling bullshit on that
I had a Cadillac Escalade with this problem. The cost to repair was more than the car was worth. I traded it in during the summer since the heat wouldn't come on. I have a Toyota now. No issues.
Wizard, thank you so much for your informative videos. When I am performing tasks like the replacement of a component behind a dashboard or perhaps trying to gain access to something at the rear of the motor, the first thing that comes to mind is how was this assembled on the assembly line. Perhaps it is easier to remove a front door, unbolt the whole dash assembly and slide it out in one piece, rather than pull it apart in many smaller pieces. On occasions I have also dropped the whole front subframe to gain easy access to something at the back of the motor. Many years ago I had a front wheel drive 1972 Mini Cooper S. Dropping the front subframe complete with power unit was super easy and gave great access.
Great video as always. I had 2 of these components fail in my 2014 Ford Fiesta ST. Multiple gear teeth broke on both, which resulted in very loud clicking when I changed the HVAC settings. Based on some guidance I found in the ST owners forums, I bought a little palm ratchet and was able snake my hand behind the dash to get them out. Not fun and it took a while with a lot of trial and error on hand and body position while laying contorted in the foot wells. lol. My hands were cut up from it. But I did manage to get it done for just the cost of the parts.
I change my cabin air filter yearly. Also got my dad to do it too. You can totally smell the nice new filter.
You mean you can smell the chemicals coming out of the glue that holds the filter together - it's good stuff, and good for your brain compartments and departments!
This is why I sold my GS Turbo and bought an 85 K10 with a 1971 396 LS5 from Chevelle SS. I can stand in the engine bay and work on it myself.
You can literally get your legs between the motor and the frame and stand on the ground inside the hood?😂
@@Bikes0420 not to the ground, she has a 6’ country lift and 35 inch M/T Rt409s so only my shoulders and head would be visible if I did, lol.
In my 2000 Bonneville SSEi I modified all of the acuators with wires that go directly to the motors and greased the gears after verifing correct operation and reporting the right resistance for position. If for some reason the control side of things stops working, or for troubleshooting, I can go in and move the doors "manually" with my power probe or battery leads. I also deleted the flat flex cable to the HVAC control and converted it to wire. That's why I was in the dash, to fix a broken trace on the flat flex.
Then it turned into a massively out of control "While your in there". Now I'm on a hiatus from a RGBW cluster / dash light conversion requiring making clear buttons to replace the factory red ones. :-)
Very helpful content, Im your typical older guy. I headed out now to check if I have cabin filters in my older 2007 F150 truck.
Our local oil change service never says anything about the cabin filters, even on our newer vehicles ( 2013 & 2020 )
Over the past years you have totally convinced me to look for a Toyota product on next purchase. ( we’re not a new car family we alway try to get a couple year old vehicle.
Thanks again
It may not have a cabin filter, my 2000 didn't.
Cheap plastic crap has always been a issue. Even today I was looking at my 1990 Silverado cause the headlight assembly looked a little off. That whole set up is cheap plastic and one of the little snap thingys broke causing the light to go to the side a bit. But at least in this case its easy to replace the entire housing and probably cheap, haven’t looked into it yet
Same thing happened to my Jeep Zj after Covid hit all the new header panels went on back order. Still can’t fine a new one
Manufacturers giving a shit about Quality and customer service is a thing of the past ! Maximizing profits buy building cheap crap and charging as much as possible for it and then again to Repair it is the name of the game !
yup, thats the way everything is going. make it as cheap as possible.
except cars are way more reliable and last longer today than in the 70s so not true
@@heyjoe8261 in what reality is this statment true ?
It's true, check the data. I love those old cars but they didn't last. A direct quote from an article on this subject states "today’s passenger cars will last more than twice as long as their predecessors did 50 years ago." Article is Forbes "Why Do Today’s Cars Last Longer Than They Used To?"
@@heyjoe8261Your so full of it !
Great video... Much much better job in cost details etc ... Thank you for breaking down the actual costs which nobody speaks about... Even if it's a general cost break down, much better than not mentioning costs at all
Thank you Mr & Mrs Wizard for the explanations.
My Dad used to tell people that came into his body shop and bitched about the cost he told them they WERE SELLING NEW CARS OUT ON EAST KELLOGG...
LOLOL! 🤣
or "save money" on South Broadway!!!
In Kansas City right?!?
He could also have explained why the cost was what it was and educated the public and kept a customer.
@@justliberty4072I'm pretty sure that would end up being a waste of time.
So your dad was a miserable bastard? Got it
The auto industry wants a vehicle that lasts until the warranty is up, that is all they care about. If the Nissan/Infiniti and Toyota Lexus vehicles of the 90's were built like the way where were people would but fewer new cars. Look around, I still see more 96 -2001 Maximas on the road that I do 2009 -16 models.............the 09 -16 are mostly junked because of the CVT
Yep, had both a Ford and a Pontiac that blew up, wheels falling off, dashboard lights lighting up like the 4th of July... THE WEEKEND they blew past their warranties. Those guys in Detroit are geniuses!
@@oldrrocr Same or worse with the foreign cars today.............Hyundai and KIa are disasters..........Nissan/Infiniti terrible since Renault bought them............BMW, MB...........Buick has very high ratings
I heard the same about the envoy with my 2003 Chevy s10 pickup 🛻! Except I’m told the doors break like the dodge you repaired.
Love the truck 🛻! Hate the issues. Next a switch that activates the four wheel drive. 😳😮🤯
🙏❤️😎🤙🛻💨
Thanks for the video car wizard. Glade that the little motors on my volvo (v50 d4 2.0 diesel 5 zylinder) are not spitting there guts out. 26300km and goes like a new vehicle. Greets from Switzerland
It would be interesting to see the Geiger counter readings from this filter dust.
Why...? You suspect it to be radioactive...?
Makes me appreciate the vacumn actuated HVAC controls in my elderly Cadillac.
Yeah, vacuum leaks have never caused any issues whatsoever.
Oh no, not vacuum! I have nightmares of the old Mercedes where the door locks were vacuum.
Literally the whole assembly on my Pontiac is crumbling away on my vacuum control...
There’s not much is worse than plastic gearing but vacuum actuated stuff definitely is
@@tim3172 That can be an issue finding the leak.
I completely agree, will be no saving old cars in the future !
13:16 I can confirm this. I own a 2004 GMC Envoy. Apparently it’s a common issue that the motor or motors for the climate controls can possibly break when you disconnect the battery. I replaced the battery three times on my truck, never had an issue. But the day I disconnected the battery terminals because I had to remove the alternator to replace the temperature sensor that is blocked by the alternator, the motor for the vent position broke. Luckily the little black box that houses the motor for the vents position is accessible from under the dash on the driver side. Just like the Wizard said, one of the gears inside the black box was stripped.
Not just under the dash, I have an F-150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost and the valve covers are made of plastic. They all eventually crack and then drip oil onto the exhaust and turbos. I've been trying to get a replacement valve cover but they are on "national backorder". My local dealer said they are #600 on the list for them when they are available. At least I don't have a 2.7, on those the intake manifold cracks and those have been out of stock for over a year and a half.
Are there not any aftermarket metal ones to combat that issue?
Those can be soo easily rebuilt. Metal or printed gears, beefier motors (not more powerful, just better built) similar ones likely already available. I'm surprised there are no companies rebuiding things like this outside exotics.
The bigger problem is with the labor cost of getting to the parts and putting everything back together, no?
Can you rebuild/upgrade/warranty the actuator for $50 - $100+? What if its' motor is near failure? Plus the labor still costs, especially if you need to pull the whole dash!
Perhaps, but you STILL need to recalibrate the damned thing, and for that you need an expensive diagnostic tool.
@@sunbeam8866 You don't. You sell the upgraded internals as a kit. Ignoring the labor, I believe some people would be interested in getting the upgraded part to not deal with this again, especially on cars that have this fail often.
There are countless examples of steel/brass gear upgrades in things. The reason they use nylon is because it's cheap and silent-ish. As for the motors I find that inexcusable, they used cheap garbage.
@@MiGujack3 Plus, in the old days, the motors could draw more current as they aged, but the electrical systems could handle it. Today, wiring is marginal, and nanny-programmed computers are shutting things down. I recall a 'South Main Auto Repair' episode a few years ago, where a Dodge Neon lit the 'check Engine' light because the computer sensed a still-working heater blower was drawing too many amps! I thought that's what fuses were for!
Reminds me of the “push button” hvac controls on my 1970 Dodge Coronet. It picked the summertime to get stuck on heat!
Clean, clear, and concise as always.
Owning a car is not affordable anymore. It’s a luxury with these prices.
Hate when they started going to motors and plastic gears give me my metal cables those never fail
The cables are currently seized in my '94 Nissan truck lol.
Thank you for another excellent video to educate us about these weak links! Shocking and disappointing that the auto makers set up this failure! Crazy for the mechanics. I bet the dealers do not share this information on how-to-fix. Carry on Sir!
I went without cabin heat for a year on my 2011 CR-V but the blend door motor (or whatever it’s called) is near the brake pedal and not too hard to get to. Still over $300. I barely need heat here in south-ish Florida but it’s welcome on cold mornings or when using the A/C to get dry air in a cool damp situation. Wanting to drive to friends in South Carolina in January made me decide to give in and get the fix.
My newest car is from 2008 & I have 5 running cars. I'll never buy a newer car with plastic junk & expensive computer modules.
Hate to break it to you, but 2008 car is chock full of electronics. It's just not as extreme as a newer car. There's nothing wrong with electronics, if they're designed properly.
cabin filter= roll down the window
Funny you mention the Envoy. I was thinking about that job while watching this. I did those actuators on an Envoy. Only had to take the knee and kick panels off and reach all the way to the top of the underside of the dash. It sucked but the upper dash stayed in tact.
2014 GMC Yukon: underdash actuator failed 6 months ago; fixed it by taking apart and using a Q-tip applicator to remove excess grease. Had same part fail on 1994 Suburban (replaced at a shop) and 2005 Yukon (replaced by me). I have two older trucks that use cables to change the air path flaps.
Used to be the slider knob would actually move those doors, very simple back in the day
Yes, it is not like cables ever break, right...?
@@redbaron6805I own a 1969 F100 and a 1970 AMC Hornet, the HVAC cables are basically the only parts of either vehicle that has never been touched... That's not to say they'll never break, but after 55 years I'd say they're doing quite a bit better then most electronic nonsense that is less then half their age.
@@admiralrustyshackleford119 Cars have tried cables, vacuum lines, motors and other methods of directing airflow and changing temperature.
They all have their drawbacks. Everything on cars wear outs, corrodes, cracks or breaks eventually.
Ironically, as someone that a 13 year old truck and a 12 year old car, neither one has a single issue with the HVAC system and both have around 150k miles on them.
Doesn't shock me one bit. Plastic is cheaper and also lightweight, win win only for the manufacturer.
And how much Chinese crap do you buy because it costs less?
Very sustainable. As long as it's an electric car...
@@AapVanDieKaap I just love how we have so much concern for the environment. But here in America, 90% of us are in SUV's and trucks.
@@martinehrlich3908 Unholy amounts.
@@AapVanDieKaap 🤪😂🤪😂🤪😂🤪
I am a serious, DIYer and I have tackled this before. On an old ML 320 the entire dash had to come apart to get to the blend door motor. Yes, it is a chore. But I enjoy turning wrenches, and I love these videos because the wizard actually tells me how much money I save:-)
I have an 08 Mustang which had these problems. These actuators weren't too hard to get to on this car, but not quite as easy as this Acura. I managed to do the passenger's side with some success. Haven't gotten to the ones behind the gauge cluster, but yeah... not the easiest, but definitely easier than some things I've came across.
Greed and we pay the price.
I have a 70 year old cast iron boiler for heating in winter and still works today.
BMW are the pits when it comes to plastic parts.
Agree - however VW/AUDI are a very close second.
Great video, *WIIIIZARD!* Very true; all makes are affected. My '16 KИ Forte's Mode/Blend Door Actuator failed; only Defrost worked. My mechanic had to remove the *ENTIRE* dash to replace that tiny plastic P.O.S. part. Price? $1,496!! Well, at least it's fixed. Plus, the repair has a 3-year warranty.
Someone's probably already said it, but have you ever considered a 3D printer? The latest ones have really come down in price, and they're basically plug-and-play. They even can print in stuff like reinforced nylon! You could print parts in the shop cheaper, and better, than OEM! ✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Good for me I still have old school cables going to my actuator doors.
Good thing cables never break and have to be replaced. Oh wait...
@@redbaron6805 mine are plastic sheathed. The much older ones had a spiral wrapped wire for an outer casing and would seize up with rust. I personally would like to have a new vehicle with all these failure prone parts but Car Wizard is informing those that watch his channel to be aware of such expenses and to plan accordingly
@@LilYeshua In all fairness, this car, a second generation MDX, is probably 14 to 15 years old.
It obviously didn't get the best of maintenance with the cabin air filter being clogged up, and who knows how many miles are on it.
So, based on that, having 3 easily replaced actuators go bad isn't exactly the end of the world.
As you noted, earlier spiral wrapped one's rusted, vacuum line leaks were notoriously difficult to repair and required the dash to come out.
There is no perfect system out there that will last forever.
Yeah me too in my 94 Nissan truck. And they're seized up lol
These Automakers are making over computerized plastic junk garbage. I despise these vehicles that shut off when at a Stop Light waiting for it to turn Green.
I’ve developed muscle memory to turn that junk feature off when I start my fleet vehicle.
Yeah, god forbid we try to reduce the pollution from passenger cars. It is like these crazy people want cleaner air or something. Just insane...
You dang kids get off my lawn!
@redbaron6805 Like government it just never ends. Emissions regulations will get more and more strict costing everyone more and more trillions of dollars....wait until we have to upgrade our power grid to feed all those evs.
I had a few 90s Hondas and the switch for hot or cold always broke in the dash. Luckily it was just linkage that I can open the hood and manually adjust when the temperature got cold or warm instead of spending money to replace
I got one for ya!
2006 Chrysler Sebring convertible, had a stored trouble code (but no CEL/MIL/whatever) for "A/C mode door Input open/short to ground". Yet the mode door seemed to work fine. I'd clear the code in the BCM, but it would always come back after i'd check in a couple of days. Long story short (too late?) it was the climate control module itself that was horking up! Something internally is wrong with it where it would *honk* out and send the mode door home to full cold, even though heat was requested. I figured it out one day when I had it blasting max hot and suddenly my feet are FREEZING. New old module (from parts car. that's the state we're in. I buy cars to use just for parts sometimes. when for example the CCM is $130 refurb from Dorman and you can get an entire car for $800 or less, just a couple parts like that and you're ahead of the game) and all is well. No random icicle feet in a couple of weeks.
Grrr, sales tax. Tax when you earn it and tax when you spend it. It's theft.
They tax you when you die too.
Grrr, roads and schools and services.
@@tim3172 What? poor education, poor roads? Yeah, grrrr.
Cars for the most part only last about 20 years. Most do not properly maintain them and its a miracle they last as long as they do.
Maybe in the southern states, rust belt and canada, no way they're hitting 20 years on average.
Most cars dont even last that long my guy. The "Average" for mileage is between 10-12,000 miles a year. At 20 years, That would mean most cars last over 200,000 miles and sadly that is no longer the case. Most dont make it to 100k before needing MAJOR repairs like an engine or transmission replacement. A decade ago, you might have been right, Most cars from the 98-2010 maybe, era, would last to 200k without issue. look at the number of 98 Civics floating around still.... being beaten like an abused step child and begging for more..
@@crisnmaryfam7344 Sure the average is 12 years but many cars make it much longer. My wife's car is 19 years old and still in great shape, I just sold a car that was 24 years old and was in great condition due to a lot of basic maintenance over the years, I also have a Silverado that is 21 years old. Cars can make it 20 years, but as I stated most do not maintain them and run them into the ground. Also what brings down the average is accidents, they are much more likely to be totaled after minor accidents than in the past.
The cabin air filter is one of the best things that has come out of the automotive industry. I remember the days of pulling the blower motor out and trying to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the evaporator. Some of them I would spray a water hose in there.
Just finished the complete removal of the dash in my MDX. blend door broke. I replaced the entire heater box and made sure all of the arms and cams were lubed with silicone grease. It keeps binding at bay at least for a while. I needed some help from Ivan from Pine Hollow Diagnostics but we got it done.
My blend doors are vaccum operated. Oh, i fix cracked motorcycle plastics with Legos and MEK.
I wouldn't spend $1,200 on an old Envoy for anything 😂
Yep.
2008 Ford Expedition, rear heat/AC clicking. I pulled a couple plastic covers (B pillar) and snaked my arm inside with a special 8mm swivel head to pull the broken actuator. The part I bought was wrong, but I was able to 'steal' parts out of it to replace the broken nylon gear. HEY! How about an access panel?
Now, the driver 'wipers' lost contact and it is a $40 part, but I'm going to have to pull the center console, disconnect the shift assembly, pull the radio and then force my 70-year old body to do teenage level gymnastics to pull the offending part . . .
And, I know the WIZARD hates the 5.4L 3 valve FORD engine, but at 200K I had a master mechanic do a timing job, updated the roller rocker followers (better oil distribution) and the variable valve timing works perfectly . . . $3000, but you have to plan on doing this on many modern cars, including Mazda.
I have to replace those on Kenworths at work constantly! Luckily there's a few panels that can come off to get to them. The cool part is it shuts off the blower motor when they mess up. Basically it has to all work or screw you no air at all.
It is not hard to clear the codes now a days. Yes fixing does but also now a days so much info floating around if there is a will there is a way any one can fix 90% of things. Engine usually do not go bad it is the other stuff. I am a doctor and like to learn and have been maintaining my cars myself for last 30 years. Now I have 2 MBs and 1 Lexus. Never took to dealer even though they r under manufacturer warranty. I do not trust dealer. Good video... like to watch always full of information. I also watch Scotty.... Good job 👏
Yep Scotty's a trip, ain't he? I just subscribed here as well. Scotty's scan tool has a regular conversation with him.
I was at a dealership years ago. I was at the parts counter getting something. I heard a loud noise behind me. A mechanic threw a wrench it hit the wall. He was cussing. The car he was working on needed the spark plugs changed. The engine bay was so crowded it was hard to get to the plugs. I had a 75 Chevy Monza with a V8. The dealer said to take a motor mount loose and raise the motor to change the plugs. I took a box end curved wrench cut it in half and heated it with a torch and bent it. It worked.
Just did the job on my 2006 Ford Mustang. Not too bad of a job. I replaced the one for the mode selection. It was clicking when I would change modes. After removing it I disassembled it and it had a broken off tooth on one of the gears. A new actuater cost me $46.10 with tax. I only replaced the defective one. I will wait till the others fail to replace them. Dash removal is not necessary on that car.
Did my blender door (common) on 2014 Ford Exploder! Pain in the ass but i did it, passanger side up behind the glove compartment needed a trip to the chiropractor after that job very awkward to fix!!!
Nothing makes me angrier than the plastic blend door actuators. Never had issues with them till I bought 2000+ newer cars.
Cabin filters are overlooked by nearly everyone. Some are not easy to get to or you have to be a flexible acrobat to get under dash.
Good discussion on cabin filters. So many older folks, like me, don't realize they exist on modern cars. 😀👍
Thanks for the advice about plastic gears in newer cars, Wizard.
My Passat is having a similar problem to this. Quoted 1900 to fix
The old manual controls back in the 60s 70s worked. Cheap to fix too
I have manual controls in my 1995 M3 and 2003 Mitsubishi Evo. They kept them around for a while. Some newer cars still have them, too.
I prefer that setup.
My 2003 Subaru's got one of these little motors for luckily just the recirculating air vent, and it hasn't broken after 150k miles since it doesn't necessarily need to move every time you turn on the air conditioning. The rest of the vents are mechanically controlled, and those work flawlessly, but man is it annoying to see these things being made out of plastic. Plastic gears are always terrible pretty much no matter what, they only work "well" at a very specific small scales, and even then they have to be in low load use cases, and regardless, they will always wear out.
I think these days we should be moving to using direct drive systems, and brushless motors, simply because little brushless motors have genuinely gotten that good, and that cheap, and it'd get rid of this issue entirely.
Had a MDX or Furd Explorer with multiple dash lights out. Dealer quoted $4500 to fix. A private shop quoted $3000-6000 but could provide better estimate until done
Sold car (for other reasons) and never fixed