Bro you don’t realize it…but 7 shops have worked on my semi and couldn’t figure out the whine….i got looking through stuff and stumbled across this….this absolutely fixed my issue 100% and now it’s flawless ….ive spent hundreds to figure this out …..instantly made a giant difference…thank you so much for sharing…
I just got a new JVC aftermarket radio and installed it. I don't have my door speakers or tweeters hooked up to an external amplifier, just the deck. I got it all wired and when I fired the car up, as soon as the radio starts, a loud static/screeching sound plays through my mids and tweets. The tweeters get no music just static, the mids get music and static. I am curious if I should cut the car harness's factory ground wire that is running to the headunit and run a NEW & seperate wire from the headunit to the amplifer's ground? Or should I keep the cars factory harness's ground wire and run a secondary ground wire from the chassis of the headunit to the amplifer? Another question is should i use the radios harness black wire (the ground) to run a new wire to a new ground location or should I just connect it to the radio's chassis and run it to a new ground location? Hard to explain but sounds like I'm riding inside a UFO.
I have same thing but if I bash in my stereo it will go away for awhile, could this be loose wire? If so what one lol. I’ll try ur method and do a new ground for it.
It looks like your camera lens has been off-roading too! Hahaha. But in all seriousness I'm having the same engine noise/alternator whine as well after installing my pioneer headunit. I BELIEVE it's only grounded out at one spot right now but I'm going to double check as well as try and ground it out to a better location. Glad you found a solution to your own problem though! Has it held up over the years? Or did you end up having to go back in with a ground loop isolator?
I just installed speakers, amp and sub to my factory head unit with an LOC in a 2016 Canyon and had 2 noises. One rpm related and the other just a constant buzz. I moved the amp ground and the rpm noise went away but the constant buzz is still there. The factory head unit does not have RCAs (thus the LOC) and it is spliced in there. Do you have Any idea what else I should check/try now?
What the hell is causing it? I’ve tried everything and its a constant buzz. Sometimes its loud and sometimes its not so everytime I think its fixed it comes back when I like shut the door or hit a bump. The funny thing is I have the exact same pioneer amp as you.
Hey great video will it work for engine humming out my subwoofer I already put afew inline rca noise filter but still humming just out my subwoofer not rest of speakers it's a factory stereo with a add on mono block amps and 3x12" mtx subwoofers please help it driving me crazy every one I ask they said bad ground please any help would be greatly appreciated
Ok what's the solution if you do not have an amp? 2004 GMC Yukon with factory Bose radio changed out to dual brand 7inch touchscreen. Got an awful whine through the new radio but I don't have an amp.
Ok guys listen up there are several possibilities and there are steps to eliminate each one. 1. Bad grounding location. To find a proper grounding spot you need a multimeter set to ohms (resistance). Put one lead on your battery's ground and test all available grounding spots with the other lead. Use the spot that shows the least resistance. Always ground your head unit, amps, and any other related devices that are in the signal path to one spot. This is called single point grounding. Keep in mind that you head unit may be grounding through the chassis also and may need to be insulated if using metal brackets in an ISO mount. I have also solved ground loops that were caused by the radio antenna. The outer shielding in some cars is grounded to the ant base from the factory. Try unplugging the antenna. The most common problem is mixing audio components that use a floating RCA ground with comp that connects the RCA grounds to the ground wire of the units power supply. Test each component by using a multimeter set to continuity and place one lead on the rca grounds and the other to the units ground. Then test rca ground to units chassis. If all your gear has no continuity or if all has continuity your most likely OK . But if one device in the signal path doesn't match the others you need to address that by either using a ground loop isolator or convert it from floating to common or vice versa. Do not buy a cheap isolator, I have seen cheap ones ripple your frequency response. And will only reduce the annoying sounds that you want to eliminate. A well designed isolator will eliminate ground loops as well as elim8nate radiated noise caused by magnetic fields. Another rarer possibility Is you have 1 or more bad diodes in your alternator. Those diodes that are Part of your alternators bridge rectifier prevent the AC current your alternator produces from alternating into your DC electrical system through the inverter. Diodes only allow current to flow in 1 direction but can fail and allow current to seep back through the wrong direction. This can also drain your battery when parked. Another tip is to try not to ever run your Rcas near or across your power or ground wires. However if you must always cross them at a 90 degree angle this will reduce the chance of inducing interference.
Almost forgot I have been seeing a lot of people using the center wire that some rcas have for their remote turn on from their head unit to their amps. Do not do that. That wire is not used for that and can cause noise as well as turn on and turn off popping. Do not use it for grounding either it is way too small for that but if you must know why it's there it's because back in the day there were a few high end companies that used balanced signal cables as found in pro audio that utilized a pair of rcas for each channel and the additional center wire was used to enable balanced mode for Eclipse, Nakamichi, Audio Control, PPI, Rockford Fosgates Symmetry (uh oh giving up my age now)
Pioneer ground thru body only not a good design in my mind.Alternator putting out rf signal interfering with radio very common especially on a 1 wire alt.system.wrap alternator charge cable from alt. To batt. Good idea.Clearly rf coming through negative bat cable.to radio
What’s funny is that I am having the same problem, but the weird thing is that when I disconnect the subwoofer amp and only run the speaker amp, the whine is not there....literally nothing, but once I reconnect the sub amp into the system, I get that problem. What’s REALLY weird is that even though the sub amp is causing the problem, the whine is coming through the speakers, not the subwoofers. The only thing I have came down to is that maybe the fused distribution block I’m using can’t handle the power going to both amps. Fuck me in the ass sideways!
A little update on my problem guys...first of all yes, my amps are going to the same ground. I solved my problem by making my own custom ground leads for the head unit and it doesn’t make a single peep. You could also do it by grounding the RCAs to the receiver but all I know is that my method worked and I haven’t tried the RCA trick because I didn’t have to. Hope this helps anyone else that goes through this comment section with the same problem.
Bro you don’t realize it…but 7 shops have worked on my semi and couldn’t figure out the whine….i got looking through stuff and stumbled across this….this absolutely fixed my issue 100% and now it’s flawless ….ive spent hundreds to figure this out …..instantly made a giant difference…thank you so much for sharing…
It's picking up my windshield wipers now 😂
My issue was my alternator was bad..it was making the whining noise all along lol..check you guys alternator also it was my issue..good luck!
I just got a new JVC aftermarket radio and installed it. I don't have my door speakers or tweeters hooked up to an external amplifier, just the deck. I got it all wired and when I fired the car up, as soon as the radio starts, a loud static/screeching sound plays through my mids and tweets. The tweeters get no music just static, the mids get music and static. I am curious if I should cut the car harness's factory ground wire that is running to the headunit and run a NEW & seperate wire from the headunit to the amplifer's ground? Or should I keep the cars factory harness's ground wire and run a secondary ground wire from the chassis of the headunit to the amplifer? Another question is should i use the radios harness black wire (the ground) to run a new wire to a new ground location or should I just connect it to the radio's chassis and run it to a new ground location? Hard to explain but sounds like I'm riding inside a UFO.
I have same thing but if I bash in my stereo it will go away for awhile, could this be loose wire? If so what one lol. I’ll try ur method and do a new ground for it.
It looks like your camera lens has been off-roading too! Hahaha. But in all seriousness I'm having the same engine noise/alternator whine as well after installing my pioneer headunit. I BELIEVE it's only grounded out at one spot right now but I'm going to double check as well as try and ground it out to a better location. Glad you found a solution to your own problem though! Has it held up over the years? Or did you end up having to go back in with a ground loop isolator?
So you run a cable from the amp to the front radio?
I just installed speakers, amp and sub to my factory head unit with an LOC in a 2016 Canyon and had 2 noises. One rpm related and the other just a constant buzz. I moved the amp ground and the rpm noise went away but the constant buzz is still there. The factory head unit does not have RCAs (thus the LOC) and it is spliced in there. Do you have Any idea what else I should check/try now?
How you know where to move the ground where to?
@@williamfaria1918 You just have to look for some bare metal, not painted. The bolts for seat mounting worked in my truck
I'm having the same sound but only when I use auxiliary, which is what my ham radio is hooked to. 🤔🤔 could it just be my aux cable?
Use a ground loop isolator and plug in your auxiliary to that
What the hell is causing it? I’ve tried everything and its a constant buzz. Sometimes its loud and sometimes its not so everytime I think its fixed it comes back when I like shut the door or hit a bump. The funny thing is I have the exact same pioneer amp as you.
How you fix it?
hi, behind my stereo i can't find the amp connection, where i can connect the ground cable?
it worked!!!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im having this same issue too, whining changing with engine rpm. Kinda sounds fun tho so I dont mind much haha
I pretend it’s a supercharger
@@docatsfart4490 i used to pretend and my ax compresor sounds like a bov 🤣
Installed stereos for years and it was definitely the ground. Needs a better spot. Also quality and wiring size play a part
How do you know where a good spot?
Hey great video will it work for engine humming out my subwoofer I already put afew inline rca noise filter but still humming just out my subwoofer not rest of speakers it's a factory stereo with a add on mono block amps and 3x12" mtx subwoofers please help it driving me crazy every one I ask they said bad ground please any help would be greatly appreciated
Did you figure it out?
Ok what's the solution if you do not have an amp? 2004 GMC Yukon with factory Bose radio changed out to dual brand 7inch touchscreen. Got an awful whine through the new radio but I don't have an amp.
Same mine is only the drivers door. 06 Sierra did you ever figure it out?
Ok guys listen up there are several possibilities and there are steps to eliminate each one.
1. Bad grounding location.
To find a proper grounding spot you need a multimeter set to ohms (resistance).
Put one lead on your battery's ground and test all available grounding spots with the other lead.
Use the spot that shows the least resistance.
Always ground your head unit, amps, and any other related devices that are in the signal path to one spot. This is called single point grounding. Keep in mind that you head unit may be grounding through the chassis also and may need to be insulated if using metal brackets in an ISO mount.
I have also solved ground loops that were caused by the radio antenna. The outer shielding in some cars is grounded to the ant base from the factory. Try unplugging the antenna.
The most common problem is mixing audio components that use a floating RCA ground with comp that connects the RCA grounds to the ground wire of the units power supply.
Test each component by using a multimeter set to continuity and place one lead on the rca grounds and the other to the units ground. Then test rca ground to units chassis.
If all your gear has no continuity or if all has continuity your most likely OK .
But if one device in the signal path doesn't match the others you need to address that by either using a ground loop isolator or convert it from floating to common or vice versa.
Do not buy a cheap isolator, I have seen cheap ones ripple your frequency response. And will only reduce the annoying sounds that you want to eliminate. A well designed isolator will eliminate ground loops as well as elim8nate radiated noise caused by magnetic fields.
Another rarer possibility Is you have 1 or more bad diodes in your alternator.
Those diodes that are Part of your alternators bridge rectifier prevent the AC current your alternator produces from alternating into your
DC electrical system through the inverter. Diodes only allow current to flow in 1 direction but can fail and allow current to seep back through the wrong direction. This can also drain your battery when parked.
Another tip is to try not to ever run your Rcas near or across your power or ground wires.
However if you must always cross them at a 90 degree angle this will reduce the chance of inducing interference.
Almost forgot I have been seeing a lot of people using the center wire that some rcas have for their remote turn on from their head unit to their amps.
Do not do that. That wire is not used for that and can cause noise as well as turn on and turn off popping. Do not use it for grounding either it is way too small for that but if you must know why it's there it's because back in the day there were a few high end companies that used balanced signal cables as found in pro audio that utilized a pair of rcas for each channel and the additional center wire was used to enable balanced mode for Eclipse, Nakamichi, Audio Control, PPI, Rockford Fosgates Symmetry (uh oh giving up my age now)
Also a spark plug wire on the engine cause it to do it too I know it's weird bass Old Timers on the older vehicles
This is what is happening to my system right now :(
my radio keeps making a whining sound when i push the gas since my dad installed a new radio and he said there’s nothing wrong but there definitely is
Mine has that too I put one in a while ago but it’s nothing bad
What about doing the big 4,,, maybe the ground strap to the body and motor tore up
Very helpful thank you
Is the humming noise coming from the speakers?
Probably alternator noise coming out of the speakers... Many grounding tricks out there to fix it.
Or a thing you can buy...
i thought i was pressed a wrong button when this happened. i really thought it was some feature
Dude I even have the same effing head unit. Or a similar year and model. Old system as well for me. Love the Fleetwood mac
Pioneer ground thru body only not a good design in my mind.Alternator putting out rf signal interfering with radio very common especially on a 1 wire alt.system.wrap alternator charge cable from alt. To batt. Good idea.Clearly rf coming through negative bat cable.to radio
I now have a ground strap going from the back of the alternator to the battery
Have the same head unit, i have the same problem
I run all my grounds separate from all wiring
Ask your ground
As your ground
Replace rotor and distributor cap
I too facing same problem. I try this method
But did it work
What’s funny is that I am having the same problem, but the weird thing is that when I disconnect the subwoofer amp and only run the speaker amp, the whine is not there....literally nothing, but once I reconnect the sub amp into the system, I get that problem. What’s REALLY weird is that even though the sub amp is causing the problem, the whine is coming through the speakers, not the subwoofers. The only thing I have came down to is that maybe the fused distribution block I’m using can’t handle the power going to both amps. Fuck me in the ass sideways!
@@spreaddeezhazelnutz7511 are the 2 amps grounded to the same ground? Make sure they are.
A little update on my problem guys...first of all yes, my amps are going to the same ground. I solved my problem by making my own custom ground leads for the head unit and it doesn’t make a single peep. You could also do it by grounding the RCAs to the receiver but all I know is that my method worked and I haven’t tried the RCA trick because I didn’t have to. Hope this helps anyone else that goes through this comment section with the same problem.
So what did you ground
Yeah i heted that when that happened to my car i even hit the fucking speaker