Hey friend, thanks for advising people to protect their car audio tweeters in order to limit the low frequency bands. My home lab experience suggest that when you are soldering a capacitor, (4:29) the heat of the hot soldering iron tip under five (5) seconds will not damage the capacitor. But for soldering any other sensitive electronic components (such as diodes and other 'semiconductors') then one might needs a heat sink (and that does not need formal tools but can improvised by using almost any plyiers, such as the needle-nose ones, and rubber bands holding onto the handles.)
Your videos have been unbelievable. So much information and knowledge it's very helpful! Really appreciate it. Been installing systems for 10 years and still learn a ton from your videos.
i appreciate your honestly and humble nature not afraid to say you arent the best. i try to always do the same. theres always something new to learn! never cut your brain short! 👍
Thanks for making all these very informative videos. You have saved me so much time and resources by explaining it so very well. Keep up the great work.
I have a Audio Control LC 4.800 amp with a pair of Audison 6/9 APX on the rear channels & 4 Audison AP1 tweeters . two connected in parallel for each front channels 150 RMS on the tweeters with the AMP giving 200 RMS Would you add the crossovers that are included with the tweets? Your input will be appreciated. Thanks
@@boondoggesp7836 active crossover is better than inactive. Protection is necessary. Give audio control a call to find out which model would be best for your setup and experience their great customer service for yourself
Awsome video! I love when people fully explain the math of what their doing, it will deffinitly be going in my notebook of formula's so i can use it in the future!
Make sure it says "NP" on the label for non-polarized, meaning it has no polarity. Those capacitors are specifically designed to work with the variable AC signal that is speaker audio. If you see ( + ) or ( -- ), the capacitor will eventually fail as it's a polarized capacitor made for DC only.
Wow ... I just started watching your videos and I LITERALLY had no idea before but now I am just blown away ... love watching , thanks for your channel !!
I’m putting this in my saved so I can refer back 👍 I used to just pop some out of old circuit boards! But now I can actually use better specific ones 👍 thanks 🙏 I’m learning a lot during covid break out! 👍👍👍
I really could’ve used this a month ago before I blew one of these same tweeters. I’ll add these caps so it doesn’t happen again. Thank you for posting this.
Also a side note, while this is a great practice for customer systems -- A capacitor needs to be a decade lower then its crossover point to offer zero phase shift. this is only applicable with competition grade SQ cars but it is very important for perfect acoustic phase coherency. When using a 4000hz crossover slope with a 24db LR, 4000hz will be 6db down from 8000, and 2000 will be 18db down from 4000- If you used this capacitor then you would be causing a phase shift from 3000 down and on to the critical range where the tweeter hands off to the mid range. In a competition grade car it is important to make sure there are no turn on pops to begin with and one would only have a inline cap in the event of a DSP failure. But this could be likened to having a reliable daily driving car that may not have peak performance but lasts forever and having a race car that is less reliable daily but has much more impressive output in exchange.
Q.: 1. why 3.5 Ohm? Impedans is 4 Ohm in manual... 2. why 15mF ? Inside crossovers build in capacitors 2500-3500... Thanks) P.S.: Good job! 15 years working as installer but You projects is perfect. Deuch quality in The USA)
For a more exact value, in the grand scheme of things 3.5 vs 4 doesn't really matter as this cap IS NOT the crossover, but just to protect if something goes wrong. The caps in the ACTUAL crossovers are combined with several other electrical components and much more complex. Again the cap on the tweeter IS NOT ACTUALLY BEING USED, until things go wrong.
I love that you did this video based off the very tweeters i have. Theres 4 of them going in, ran via dsp, but focals not cheap ill add the capacitor thanks!
Another old tweeter protector trick is to put a 12v lamp, such as the dome lamp for your car, in series with the tweeter. I use this on addition to the capacitor on tweeters for stage sound. Lots of watts. Hooked up source, eq, electronic crossover, separate amps for each set of speakers. Just sayin. Get an old tweeter, hook it up like this, run lower freqs to it, see what happens. I blew two tweeters at a summer festival gig one summer. Fortunately I had replacement diaphragm on hand. Easy to change for the next day of the festival. With the lamps, never happened again. Try it. Quick and cheap!
2009 Chevy Avalanche. Just installed Pioneer amp and 4 Pioneer 6 1/2" door speaks. Adjusted amp gain within specs and sounds AMAZING! But.....after cranking for 2 days during my 1 hour commute the factory tweets became raspy. I now have Pioneer TS-A300 tweets ready to install. They will fit stock location but I'll have to hot glue them in the A pillar factory speak cover. They came with HPFs filters. Comparing the stock ones to the Pioneers, the magnet on the stock is much larger. I figure it's a cheap material compared to the Ps. Gonna hook up the Ps tomorrow & see if they sound better. Wish me luck.
So I used jumper wires to attach the Pioneer tweeter in place of the left tweet and it initially sounded better then the factory tweet at 90% volume. I then played a high pass frequency tone on youtube from my phone. About 45 seconds into the tone the tweet started smoking then it stopped all output. I removed it & put the factory tweet back in. The Pioneers are rated 100 watts continuous. My amp puts out 60 watts max per channel. I used my Fluke meter to compare the now bad tweet with the one I had not used yet. The tweets and the high pass filter they came with both tested the same, 6.6 ohms for each tweet & 6.9 micro farad for each HPF. I put the bad tweet back in and it played the test tone for about 20 seconds till it started smoking. I am going to return the Pioneer tweets. Anybody got a recommendation for a great tweet?
(5:08) I think "AccuBASS" harkens back to AudioControl's Phase Coupled Activator, from back in the late 80s to mid90s(?). I have two of their old PCAs for home use and I will always have a soft spot for them. I prefer dbx's 120x-ds for bass restoration, though. It's more granular as for as the range of frequencies it uses for the restoration circuit. But we're talking 6 knobs on a dbx compared to just 1 or 2 for an AC unit, so it's a no brainer as far as which is more simple to operate. Anyway, I've rambled enough. Nice video! :)
Glad going old school and using capsitors on positive wires is still a thing. Heck before built in cross overs on tweeters it was the only way to not blow them
The principle of using a capacitor as a high pass filter to protect the tweeter against damage due to low frequencies is a good thing. But using a non-polair electrolitic capacitor degrades the sound quality a lot. Use at least a MKP type capacitor. Yes, it will be bulky and cost some bucks, but it wont affect the sound compared to the type used in the video.
I would put the helping hand for soldering on the other side of the solder. Between the joint and Capacitor to act as a heat sink. Extra protection for the component.
I’ve just spent the afternoon getting rid of this. The issue is the larger speakers are working in full range, added a crossover board and now audio is crisp.
My head get heating when i look at the formula.. may be I need A20 Bionic Chip to understand it... 😂 Btw, which is the best way to install component speakers? Is it install crossover after head unit or at speaker connectors at the door.pls help me...
I'm also concerned about the phase issue. That cap adds -6dB/oct slope there. 3000hz is pretty close to 4500hz and if using -6dB or -12dB slopes it might be too close and affect on the sound. So it means the 3000hz point makes the total slope being -18dB/oct if the crossover is -12dB/oct. Also the phase turns at that point too.
Don't get caught up in the exact numbers used for this example. If you are using such a shallow slope (which will lead to other issues transitioning from the mid) then obviously you would want more seperation. For a 4th order crossover you would never in a million years hear the difference between protection cap and no protection cap.
Yep. That's what I meant just pointing out. Lower cap, no problem. Maybe one should figure out the optional crossover area to be used and pick the cap size small enough to be out of the way. Steeper slopes naturally decrease the effect.
MKP Polypropylene caps are much better than electrolytic for tweeters especially, although I am not currently running active on my current vehicle yet, I've in the past used Jantzen "CrossCaps" that are very high quality. Another recommendation, put the caps in a location that is also going to be relatively cool, such as in the shade behind a kick panel, sun temperature can really cook things
Polypropylene caps are good for sound quality, but this one is for protection. Think of the polypropylene cap as a light switch, where the electrolytic cap in this design is more of a circuit breaker.
I also watched your video but maybe didn't catch all the details, and I have watched many others you have made also, however I am just raising the idea of why quality/chemical choice of the cap is not in question, it is in series with the tweeter, so even though the actual active and filtered audio getting to it has been highpassed above the caps centre freq, the 1x cap is still only 6db/oct "basic" crossover, so it will only be down 6db at double that octave, so to me it seems it could have some reaction and thus interfere with phase and response.
What about the phase delay introduced? For example if we have at 4500 Hz a 2nd order low-pass and a 2nd order high-pass filters, the former for the Woofer and the latter for the tweeter we obtain a flat freq response, but with this capacitor we add a new pole in the transfer function of the overall tweeter High pass filter. And what do you think about having that kit Focal KX2 120W 2 Ohm in each door powered by audiocontrol d-61200 which has 200W per 2 Ohm Channel? Thank you Mark I love your Channel. P.S. I have used MATLAB to tune the band pass filters of the dsp and crossover together with and without capacitor and in the second case It Is a bit difficult ti obtain an Ideal flat freq response. With your experience What do you think?
FWIW, 100V @ 4 ohms is 2500W. As to a poly cap versus an electrolytic, the poly cap won't dry out over time and shift in value like the electrolytic. You could end up with the cap lowering in value to the point that it drops below the desired frequency. Granted, this takes some time but some of us run the same gear for years.
I prefer to add festoon bulb and use the non polar metallized capacitor to 3.3uf/100v same frequency for JBL pro series to sound really cool, that frequency for 15uf is good for mid range speakers frequency and I will be using a titanium tweeters is the best and also check the RMS power of the power amp ,, the higher real RMS the better sound quality u have, and for the low frequency I will use a 68uf/100v parallel to the woofer + and - and the positive is using a 9MH inductor for a powerful thunder bass and helps you from protection of the speaker loading ,, JBL style of SOUNDS of power !! that will last your amp and speaker in a long use
This was good but you also need to watch the voltage ratings if your doing extreme output 100v is not hard as you move below roll off point the effective impedance climbs so i personally rate the caps to the rms rail voltage of the amplifier I'm using i have had a few full bridge amps that can hit 200v with very little effort.. to know the rms voltage set gains and play a 60hz tone with nothing on it and use a dmm in ac mode on the speaker terminals if your dmm is a true rms unit(like a fluke 117) you can use some other frequency but not over 1khz.. also when you set gains it's best to do it with a load on the amp.
I got a dsp in my car and it got professional tunes I want to add tweeters in sail panel if I do would I have to get it retuned wanted to know cause tuning is expensive?
So do I run this directly to the front component? Do I just set the crossover for the component at the dsp and let it ride? Does the high frequency roll off of the mid bass?
I have questions for you... I love your info and your channel and all the videos you post. I am considering installing an audio control epicenter plus on my 2012 Escalade ESV LUXURY and want to do it with a wiring harness instead of finding, cutting and soldering wires into the harness. Is there a harness that has this interface? I just want the plug and play ability to allow my BOSE system to work with an easy plug and go. I am adding 3-15" Eclipse subs, a Goliath 4k amp with a yellow top, second battery. Please help. And keep up the awesome work.
Awesome, thanks for the info! I ordered some Kicker speakers and I noticed they came with two sets of harnesses. One with capacitors and one without, I was curious as to why
Love the video and got me thinking I could do this. Except alpine doesn't list any info like this for their tweeters. Called alpine and was told it isn't listed because it isn't necessary. So I'm sol?
I love your videos and have learned so much! I have a question hopefully you can advise me on. I've got a set of Infinity Kappa 1.4" edge driven soft dome tweeters that I want to replace my factory tweeters with (21 Ford Super Duty with the factory B&O audio). I believe the factory Ford tweeters have a bass blocker so I'm assuming the B&O tweeter circuit is full range. The Kappa tweeter is part of a component set (90CSX) and the crossover specification on the component set is 5kHz. I don't want to use the Kappa crossovers as they are large round (hockey pucks) that won't fit in my dash near the a-pillars tweeters. The Kappa tweeters are 2.5 ohm and based on a 5 kHz low frequency cut off, I could use a simple non-polarity 12uF capacitor which would be 5305 kHz cut off. My primary question is according to your video I should try and set the crossover point between the resonant frequency (Fs) and the published crossover point of 5kHz. I have been unable to find the resonant frequency specifications for my tweeter. Should I just target 5kHz or should I go lower? Is there a typical Fs for a similar size tweeter I could use? I feel that 5 kHz would be safe but I don't want to lose lower frequencies if the tweeter can handle it.
Hey friend, thanks for advising people to protect their car audio tweeters in order to limit the low frequency bands. My home lab experience suggest that when you are soldering a capacitor, (4:29) the heat of the hot soldering iron tip under five (5) seconds will not damage the capacitor. But for soldering any other sensitive electronic components (such as diodes and other 'semiconductors') then one might needs a heat sink (and that does not need formal tools but can improvised by using almost any plyiers, such as the needle-nose ones, and rubber bands holding onto the handles.)
Your videos have been unbelievable. So much information and knowledge it's very helpful! Really appreciate it. Been installing systems for 10 years and still learn a ton from your videos.
i appreciate your honestly and humble nature not afraid to say you arent the best. i try to always do the same. theres always something new to learn! never cut your brain short! 👍
dude same here. i feel like even just the extra confidence that i get from his videos makes my builds/installs noticeably faster
15uf capacitor will allow more low frequency which is harmful to tweeter. Lets watch the impending smoke.😢
Thanks for making all these very informative videos. You have saved me so much time and resources by explaining it so very well. Keep up the great work.
Agreed
You are the best car audio installer teacher on the planet! full stop.
I appreciate that, thank you
Audio control is rock solid and they have great customer service unlike many other companies. Your lucky to be sponsored by such a great company
I have a Audio Control LC 4.800 amp with a pair of Audison 6/9 APX on the rear
channels & 4 Audison AP1 tweeters .
two connected in
parallel for each front channels 150 RMS on the tweeters with the AMP giving 200 RMS Would you add the crossovers that are included with the tweets? Your input will be appreciated. Thanks
@@boondoggesp7836 active crossover is better than inactive. Protection is necessary. Give audio control a call to find out which model would be best for your setup and experience their great customer service for yourself
Thanks I was leaning in that direction But some say without protection ✌
Awsome video! I love when people fully explain the math of what their doing, it will deffinitly be going in my notebook of formula's so i can use it in the future!
yo can i get a copy of that notebook?
Make sure it says "NP" on the label for non-polarized, meaning it has no polarity. Those capacitors are specifically designed to work with the variable AC signal that is speaker audio. If you see ( + ) or ( -- ), the capacitor will eventually fail as it's a polarized capacitor made for DC only.
One case where "putting a cap in it" is actually a good thing! -Gangsta D
True, don't be a big dummy.
He forgot to say that the cap must absolutely be a bipolar one, and that the voltage of 100V is recommended.
Big D in da house..Lol
@@InXLsisDeo 5:51
How about a dddddddddddddddd lol
i cant tell you how much knowledge and even better how much confidence you have given me from watching your videos
Finally, someone who explains these things in simple things and not drown everyone with math. Subcribed!!
Wow ... I just started watching your videos and I LITERALLY had no idea before but now I am just blown away ... love watching , thanks for your channel !!
I’m putting this in my saved so I can refer back 👍 I used to just pop some out of old circuit boards! But now I can actually use better specific ones 👍 thanks 🙏 I’m learning a lot during covid break out! 👍👍👍
I really could’ve used this a month ago before I blew one of these same tweeters. I’ll add these caps so it doesn’t happen again. Thank you for posting this.
Also a side note, while this is a great practice for customer systems -- A capacitor needs to be a decade lower then its crossover point to offer zero phase shift. this is only applicable with competition grade SQ cars but it is very important for perfect acoustic phase coherency. When using a 4000hz crossover slope with a 24db LR, 4000hz will be 6db down from 8000, and 2000 will be 18db down from 4000- If you used this capacitor then you would be causing a phase shift from 3000 down and on to the critical range where the tweeter hands off to the mid range. In a competition grade car it is important to make sure there are no turn on pops to begin with and one would only have a inline cap in the event of a DSP failure. But this could be likened to having a reliable daily driving car that may not have peak performance but lasts forever and having a race car that is less reliable daily but has much more impressive output in exchange.
Aren’t phase shift issues addressed during the RTA and time alignment configurations while tuning a system?
they have SQ competitions?? how does that work???
Audio Control has been around for ever. They make great sounding components.
It also nice to put some tapered heat shrink over the ends of the heat shrink you put over the crossover capacitor protection.
THAT MATH TUTORIAL BROUGHT BACK BAD MEMORIES🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Q.:
1. why 3.5 Ohm? Impedans is 4 Ohm in manual...
2. why 15mF ? Inside crossovers build in capacitors 2500-3500...
Thanks)
P.S.: Good job! 15 years working as installer but You projects is perfect. Deuch quality in The USA)
For a more exact value, in the grand scheme of things 3.5 vs 4 doesn't really matter as this cap IS NOT the crossover, but just to protect if something goes wrong. The caps in the ACTUAL crossovers are combined with several other electrical components and much more complex. Again the cap on the tweeter IS NOT ACTUALLY BEING USED, until things go wrong.
I love that you did this video based off the very tweeters i have. Theres 4 of them going in, ran via dsp, but focals not cheap ill add the capacitor thanks!
4:30 Finally someone that knows how to Solder!!!
Another old tweeter protector trick is to put a 12v lamp, such as the dome lamp for your car, in series with the tweeter. I use this on addition to the capacitor on tweeters for stage sound. Lots of watts. Hooked up source, eq, electronic crossover, separate amps for each set of speakers. Just sayin. Get an old tweeter, hook it up like this, run lower freqs to it, see what happens. I blew two tweeters at a summer festival gig one summer. Fortunately I had replacement diaphragm on hand. Easy to change for the next day of the festival. With the lamps, never happened again. Try it. Quick and cheap!
This video reminds me why I failed algebra!!
Me too! Lol
I was good at it, but it has been 20 years, I don't remember any of it.
Algebra was easy. Calculus, on the other hand, was a b*tch.
"Just do the math because it's really not that complex" *me still counting with my finger & toes after the explanation*
Yeah ... where is the cheat sheet table link?
After seeing that math. "ok, we'll just keep replacing them tweeters"
me too!Hahaha
Lol yep
Screenshot the part where he is using the chart on laptop as reference. No math needed.
That shit is like basic 5th grade algebra. You don't even have to rearrange the equation!
yep! simple as
I love this guy. He creates some amazing art.
A well thought out on protecting the tweeter excellent tutorial and demo
Just gonna SAVE this for further reference
How do you save on You tube mate?
2009 Chevy Avalanche. Just installed Pioneer amp and 4 Pioneer 6 1/2" door speaks. Adjusted amp gain within specs and sounds AMAZING! But.....after cranking for 2 days during my 1 hour commute the factory tweets became raspy. I now have Pioneer TS-A300 tweets ready to install. They will fit stock location but I'll have to hot glue them in the A pillar factory speak cover. They came with HPFs filters. Comparing the stock ones to the Pioneers, the magnet on the stock is much larger. I figure it's a cheap material compared to the Ps. Gonna hook up the Ps tomorrow & see if they sound better. Wish me luck.
So I used jumper wires to attach the Pioneer tweeter in place of the left tweet and it initially sounded better then the factory tweet at 90% volume. I then played a high pass frequency tone on youtube from my phone. About 45 seconds into the tone the tweet started smoking then it stopped all output. I removed it & put the factory tweet back in. The Pioneers are rated 100 watts continuous. My amp puts out 60 watts max per channel. I used my Fluke meter to compare the now bad tweet with the one I had not used yet. The tweets and the high pass filter they came with both tested the same, 6.6 ohms for each tweet & 6.9 micro farad for each HPF. I put the bad tweet back in and it played the test tone for about 20 seconds till it started smoking. I am going to return the Pioneer tweets. Anybody got a recommendation for a great tweet?
loco, gracias por compartir tu conocimiento, saludos desde Lima - Perú !
(5:08) I think "AccuBASS" harkens back to AudioControl's Phase Coupled Activator, from back in the late 80s to mid90s(?). I have two of their old PCAs for home use and I will always have a soft spot for them. I prefer dbx's 120x-ds for bass restoration, though. It's more granular as for as the range of frequencies it uses for the restoration circuit. But we're talking 6 knobs on a dbx compared to just 1 or 2 for an AC unit, so it's a no brainer as far as which is more simple to operate. Anyway, I've rambled enough. Nice video! :)
love this channel number one on pro audio tnx Mark!
Finally, I found a great video about this stuff. Thanks!
Once again, very informative and very nice explanation of what your doing and doing a very clean job! Thanks again 👍
Glad going old school and using capsitors on positive wires is still a thing. Heck before built in cross overs on tweeters it was the only way to not blow them
this video made my head hurt I thought I was back in school 😳 just make it plain and simple I promise you will still listen
I blew out my Crutchfield corner dash speakers and today I'll install a replacement set and add capacitors
Been following you and watching all your vids for years brother. Keep up the great work!!!
Thank you for a detailed explanation
Thanks the Boolean algebra book needs dusting off but I got the idea of what you were on about gonna check out my circuits now 🙏 thanks
Thanks I never thought about that makes since and now i have even more research too do.
Damn I needed you when I was actually into car audio, lol.
Great vids!
Another superb vid from da man. Really appreciate your insights and advice; thank you.
The principle of using a capacitor as a high pass filter to protect the tweeter against damage due to low frequencies is a good thing. But using a non-polair electrolitic capacitor degrades the sound quality a lot. Use at least a MKP type capacitor. Yes, it will be bulky and cost some bucks, but it wont affect the sound compared to the type used in the video.
I like your videos greetings from mexico
I just did this on my tweeters, very helpful!
Love the tip to leave a tab in case you need to remove, the tesa tape equivalent I use is very hard to find the seam.
I would put the helping hand for soldering on the other side of the solder. Between the joint and Capacitor to act as a heat sink. Extra protection for the component.
highly appreciated info bro 👈
thanks 😀
Glad you enjoyed thanks.
I’ve just spent the afternoon getting rid of this. The issue is the larger speakers are working in full range, added a crossover board and now audio is crisp.
Clean assembly.
Very cool and easy to understand!
Thanks and cheers.
Gotta keep watching them vids. I keep learning every time. Keep up the good work.
Sure ..sounds good to know
Very good tutorial.. Thank you Mark
My head get heating when i look at the formula.. may be I need A20 Bionic Chip to understand it... 😂
Btw, which is the best way to install component speakers? Is it install crossover after head unit or at speaker connectors at the door.pls help me...
hi, one question, where is the value 0.159 coming from? i see where everything else is explained except taht 0.159 value? thanks
Nice Video.Thank you
I'm also concerned about the phase issue. That cap adds -6dB/oct slope there. 3000hz is pretty close to 4500hz and if using -6dB or -12dB slopes it might be too close and affect on the sound. So it means the 3000hz point makes the total slope being -18dB/oct if the crossover is -12dB/oct. Also the phase turns at that point too.
Don't get caught up in the exact numbers used for this example. If you are using such a shallow slope (which will lead to other issues transitioning from the mid) then obviously you would want more seperation. For a 4th order crossover you would never in a million years hear the difference between protection cap and no protection cap.
Yep. That's what I meant just pointing out. Lower cap, no problem. Maybe one should figure out the optional crossover area to be used and pick the cap size small enough to be out of the way. Steeper slopes naturally decrease the effect.
Thanks for the video I was looking for what does tweeter do it the car and answer that and more
Awesome video, been waiting for this!
thank you very much for your tutorial!
It was really efficient! Thanks for the video!!
Crutchfeild has some nice ones.
great video as always!!! my morel ccwr254 came with a pair of capacitors which has not the label BP on it, should I be aware of the polarity?? thx
MKP Polypropylene caps are much better than electrolytic for tweeters especially, although I am not currently running active on my current vehicle yet, I've in the past used Jantzen "CrossCaps" that are very high quality. Another recommendation, put the caps in a location that is also going to be relatively cool, such as in the shade behind a kick panel, sun temperature can really cook things
Polypropylene caps are good for sound quality, but this one is for protection. Think of the polypropylene cap as a light switch, where the electrolytic cap in this design is more of a circuit breaker.
Glad Rorique actually watched the video. Thank you for understanding.
I also watched your video but maybe didn't catch all the details, and I have watched many others you have made also, however I am just raising the idea of why quality/chemical choice of the cap is not in question, it is in series with the tweeter, so even though the actual active and filtered audio getting to it has been highpassed above the caps centre freq, the 1x cap is still only 6db/oct "basic" crossover, so it will only be down 6db at double that octave, so to me it seems it could have some reaction and thus interfere with phase and response.
excellent tutorial, thank you very much! keep it up!
fantastic! I've been waiting for this.
Those tweeters look so delicious!
Love this Channel
Thumbs UP Bro.... Sharing is caring
What about the phase delay introduced?
For example if we have at 4500 Hz a 2nd order low-pass and a 2nd order high-pass filters, the former for the Woofer and the latter for the tweeter we obtain a flat freq response, but with this capacitor we add a new pole in the transfer function of the overall tweeter High pass filter.
And what do you think about having that kit Focal KX2 120W 2 Ohm in each door powered by audiocontrol d-61200 which has 200W per 2 Ohm Channel?
Thank you Mark
I love your Channel.
P.S. I have used MATLAB to tune the band pass filters of the dsp and crossover together with and without capacitor and in the second case It Is a bit difficult ti obtain an Ideal flat freq response.
With your experience What do you think?
You Do A Great Job Boss... (Shoud'a Been A Teacher..) Subscribed..
Thank you🙏
Thank you
bending the leads on top of the capacitor to the oposite side and shrinking the entire capacitor along with the leads will prevent them from breaking
Job well done. Thank you sir..
FWIW, 100V @ 4 ohms is 2500W. As to a poly cap versus an electrolytic, the poly cap won't dry out over time and shift in value like the electrolytic. You could end up with the cap lowering in value to the point that it drops below the desired frequency. Granted, this takes some time but some of us run the same gear for years.
I wouldn't put this much work in something that's not a forever car.
I prefer to add festoon bulb and use the non polar metallized capacitor to 3.3uf/100v same frequency for JBL pro series to sound really cool, that frequency for 15uf is good for mid range speakers frequency and I will be using a titanium tweeters is the best and also check the RMS power of the power amp ,, the higher real RMS the better sound quality u have, and for the low frequency I will use a 68uf/100v parallel to the woofer + and - and the positive is using a 9MH inductor for a powerful thunder bass and helps you from protection of the speaker loading ,, JBL style of SOUNDS of power !! that will last your amp and speaker in a long use
This was good but you also need to watch the voltage ratings if your doing extreme output 100v is not hard as you move below roll off point the effective impedance climbs so i personally rate the caps to the rms rail voltage of the amplifier I'm using i have had a few full bridge amps that can hit 200v with very little effort.. to know the rms voltage set gains and play a 60hz tone with nothing on it and use a dmm in ac mode on the speaker terminals if your dmm is a true rms unit(like a fluke 117) you can use some other frequency but not over 1khz.. also when you set gains it's best to do it with a load on the amp.
Excellent excellent video !
Loved the math tutorials...
👍😎👍
I got a dsp in my car and it got professional tunes I want to add tweeters in sail panel if I do would I have to get it retuned wanted to know cause tuning is expensive?
Excellent thank you
I love you broooooo your my motivation! Will be getting into car audio thanks to you 🥰🤗
So do I run this directly to the front component? Do I just set the crossover for the component at the dsp and let it ride? Does the high frequency roll off of the mid bass?
I have questions for you... I love your info and your channel and all the videos you post. I am considering installing an audio control epicenter plus on my 2012 Escalade ESV LUXURY and want to do it with a wiring harness instead of finding, cutting and soldering wires into the harness. Is there a harness that has this interface? I just want the plug and play ability to allow my BOSE system to work with an easy plug and go. I am adding 3-15" Eclipse subs, a Goliath 4k amp with a yellow top, second battery. Please help. And keep up the awesome work.
La información contenida en tus vídeos ¡Vale oro!
Excellent!! Thanks
its so sad that we don’t have any professional audio work shop in my country, the only thing audio shops do is change the screen and speakers.
Awesome, thanks for the info! I ordered some Kicker speakers and I noticed they came with two sets of harnesses. One with capacitors and one without, I was curious as to why
I use the Brax Matrix ML 1 Twitter. If I use an active DSP system, do I still need a capacitor to protect the Twitter?
Somebody needs to make an App for this and a lot of other related car audio problems
Cool...thanks for sharing.
You bet
Love the video and got me thinking I could do this. Except alpine doesn't list any info like this for their tweeters. Called alpine and was told it isn't listed because it isn't necessary. So I'm sol?
Thank you.
Hey Mark! What if your not going active on your tweeters and have a crossover? Can I use a capacitor to get rid of turn on pop?
Calculus 1 very nice
I love your videos and have learned so much! I have a question hopefully you can advise me on. I've got a set of Infinity Kappa 1.4" edge driven soft dome tweeters that I want to replace my factory tweeters with (21 Ford Super Duty with the factory B&O audio). I believe the factory Ford tweeters have a bass blocker so I'm assuming the B&O tweeter circuit is full range. The Kappa tweeter is part of a component set (90CSX) and the crossover specification on the component set is 5kHz. I don't want to use the Kappa crossovers as they are large round (hockey pucks) that won't fit in my dash near the a-pillars tweeters. The Kappa tweeters are 2.5 ohm and based on a 5 kHz low frequency cut off, I could use a simple non-polarity 12uF capacitor which would be 5305 kHz cut off. My primary question is according to your video I should try and set the crossover point between the resonant frequency (Fs) and the published crossover point of 5kHz. I have been unable to find the resonant frequency specifications for my tweeter. Should I just target 5kHz or should I go lower? Is there a typical Fs for a similar size tweeter I could use? I feel that 5 kHz would be safe but I don't want to lose lower frequencies if the tweeter can handle it.
howd u get the top number, 0.15 idk where that came from, is it a constant? oh its 1 over 2pi
Focal used to be a Camara brand at KMart years ago. lol.