Interesting concept. How are you feeding in the knurling wheel ? I don't see the point of doing this though, given that regular plunge and pincer knurls work extremely well and are cheap to buy.
Feeding it so that the left edge cuts the knurl and there is a bit of clearance behind it. Yeah, I would just use the pincer form knurls. I'm experimenting here, it may come handy if I have to knurl something larger than my pincer tool can handle. I never had luck with plunge knurling, probably because the wheels I have are pretty crap.
@@HM-Projects @Xynudu I'm no expert, but I think the point of cut knurling is lower tool pressure as it's cutting, rather than swaging the material. I was interested in this idea as I've looked at just buying the cut knurling wheels in the past and they are about 100x the price of the regular ones, so scrapped that idea! I bought a cheap Chinese two wheel bump knurling tool years ago, and it required so much force I thought it would bend the spindle. I made a Harold Hall clamp knurling tool to use the wheels and it works ok, but the finish is inconsistent, probably because of play in the mechanism. I bought some better quality knurling wheels at a show, but found they were too big. Plan is to remake the clamp tool with the better wheels, unless HM here figures out this system, so I'll be following your progress. 👍👍
@@ollysworkshop I have a few improvments in mind, rigidity for one. I might switch the screw and brass bushing for a hardened pin. The rotational axis of the tool aligned with the center of the wheel, to avoid adjusting the height of the tool at each pass.
@@HM-Projects Looking at the video it appeared to be manual feed (horizontal axis) as the progression was not uniform as you would expect with power feed. You can easily use a pincer knurl as a push knurl, no issue. I do this regularly for large round stock. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Yes, I was feeding it manually. I wasn't sure of what I was doing and I'm mostly doing this as a learning exercise. I came across an article a while back, thebloughs.net/series/cut-knurling-tool/ and wanted to build it but it's a lot of work. I want to understand the process before I decide to sink more time into something like that.
I think you have the concept wrong, you are still upset knurling, just on a small part at the back of the knurl, raise the center height and use the sharp, front edge of the knurl to _cut_ instead of upsetting
@@L98fiero thanks for the advice, I think I have worked it out now. I need to go high or low enough to provide the appropriate clearance so it's cutting only on the leading edge.
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Interesting concept. How are you feeding in the knurling wheel ? I don't see the point of doing this though, given that regular plunge and pincer knurls work extremely well and are cheap to buy.
Feeding it so that the left edge cuts the knurl and there is a bit of clearance behind it. Yeah, I would just use the pincer form knurls. I'm experimenting here, it may come handy if I have to knurl something larger than my pincer tool can handle. I never had luck with plunge knurling, probably because the wheels I have are pretty crap.
@@HM-Projects @Xynudu I'm no expert, but I think the point of cut knurling is lower tool pressure as it's cutting, rather than swaging the material. I was interested in this idea as I've looked at just buying the cut knurling wheels in the past and they are about 100x the price of the regular ones, so scrapped that idea! I bought a cheap Chinese two wheel bump knurling tool years ago, and it required so much force I thought it would bend the spindle. I made a Harold Hall clamp knurling tool to use the wheels and it works ok, but the finish is inconsistent, probably because of play in the mechanism. I bought some better quality knurling wheels at a show, but found they were too big. Plan is to remake the clamp tool with the better wheels, unless HM here figures out this system, so I'll be following your progress. 👍👍
@@ollysworkshop I have a few improvments in mind, rigidity for one. I might switch the screw and brass bushing for a hardened pin. The rotational axis of the tool aligned with the center of the wheel, to avoid adjusting the height of the tool at each pass.
@@HM-Projects Looking at the video it appeared to be manual feed (horizontal axis) as the progression was not uniform as you would expect with power feed. You can easily use a pincer knurl as a push knurl, no issue. I do this regularly for large round stock. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Yes, I was feeding it manually. I wasn't sure of what I was doing and I'm mostly doing this as a learning exercise. I came across an article a while back, thebloughs.net/series/cut-knurling-tool/ and wanted to build it but it's a lot of work. I want to understand the process before I decide to sink more time into something like that.
The wheels need to be held rigid and edges should be sharp. You can see at 0:13 the teeth look damaged which may explain the poor end result.
I think you have the concept wrong, you are still upset knurling, just on a small part at the back of the knurl, raise the center height and use the sharp, front edge of the knurl to _cut_ instead of upsetting
You're right. I think I also need to rotate on the vertical axis to provide back clearance.
@@HM-Projects You need to go high enough so that the contact area of the knurl matches the helical angle of the knurl you are producing.
@@L98fiero thanks for the advice, I think I have worked it out now. I need to go high or low enough to provide the appropriate clearance so it's cutting only on the leading edge.