Once you have most of the enamel scratched off with a razor, you might try collecting a big bead of solder on your tip and run the wire through it. Done right, it will both strip off the remaining enamel and tin the wire in one go. This method also works to strip enamel and tin wire ends without razor scraping at all on < 22-24AWG wire where there isn't so much enamel coating to be removed and/or it isn't laid on so thick. I work in an electronics engineering R&D lab and I use this little trick fairly often when working with mag wire.
Have you ever considered switching to eutectic solder? I use a tin/lead/silver eutectic solder and it flows very well. Lower melting point than traditional 60/40 solder.
I used to work in a electric motor rewind shop. The way we stripped enamel from wire was with a small tool shaped like tweezers that had a scraper on the end. A fairly cheap, and simple tool. They're included in some solder kits, but I would imagine most people don't know what they are.
It sounds like it takes several pushes on the piston of the solder sucker to prime it for another try ---- why is that? Is the plunger not clearing the tip properly on the first try? What brand is it that you're using? A Solda-Pult, or some other?
Hey, I know this is an old video, but I have seen a better method for dealing with enameled wire. If you heat the very end of the wire (where it is cut), that wire will take solder as long as it is applied from the bare end. It will wick up and burn away the enamel as it is heated, no scraping required. Mr. Carlson's Lab demonstrated this method, but I don't recall on which platform the video was posted.
Sucking the solder out of those turrets is *exactly* the sort of operation a vacuum-operated desoldering station is tailor-made for. As for keeping lead out of the environment, this brings up a thorny question: what do we do, what should we do, with the solder splashes, the bits and balls of solder that come out of our solder-suckers and desoldering stations, and the lead-impregnated, used desoldering braid? Other than just throw it in the trash, that is. Most municipalities have facilities and procedures in place for recycling old household paint, solvents, cleaning chemicals and the like, but toxic metals are a whole 'nother level. Ideally we should be saving the lead and copper scrap for recycling, but where would we send it?? Case in point: I actually have a dozen mercury-filled diodes, each the size of beer cans, made of glass and ceramic and each containing a tablespoon or so of liquid mercury. They came with a big batch of tubes I bought some years ago, and although they were once used in welding machines, nobody wants them nowadays, and the nearest hazardous waste facility that will accepts them is over an hour's drive away and its gonna cost me the better part of a hundred bucks to have them disposed of....
I have been told that manufacturers use a solder pot to burn off the enamel and pre-tin the wires but I've never tried it.. I have a solder pot and some ingots of solder for it which I picked up at a flea market or a Hamfest somewhere but it's half buried out in the garage and I've never actually used it.....
Ehh.. Lead free solder is used in drilling tools going down an oil well. Circuit boards rated up to 175 DegC, and, I dare say, plenty of vibration/mechanical stress. Cost of a failure can run into hundred of thousands of dollars, if not millions in deep sea wells. You really think profitdriven oilcompanies would tolerate such a risk if Lead free solder was so bad as stated here?
@@PsionicAudio My other idea was Formic acid. Dip and hold for 10 min. The coating should swell and peel of like your skin might. I've also had success with careful use of acetone.
Although nothing I've tried in the past will remove the enamel coating, I have to wonder if Nitro methane will work, because that's a good solvent for lacquer-based threadlocking compounds such as Glyptol and other colored liquids that are used to lock bolts bolts and nuts in place. Have to be very careful working with that stuff however because it's extremely flammable.
@@oscardelatorre , I know they do. Remote controlled planes too, or at least they did before the advent of drone technology. I don't know if flying model planes is still a thing these days....
Once you have most of the enamel scratched off with a razor, you might try collecting a big bead of solder on your tip and run the wire through it. Done right, it will both strip off the remaining enamel and tin the wire in one go.
This method also works to strip enamel and tin wire ends without razor scraping at all on < 22-24AWG wire where there isn't so much enamel coating to be removed and/or it isn't laid on so thick.
I work in an electronics engineering R&D lab and I use this little trick fairly often when working with mag wire.
Just wanted to say, I love the longer videos just as I love the shorter ones too.
Fascinating to watch and thankful I don't have to do this myself.
Have you ever considered switching to eutectic solder? I use a tin/lead/silver eutectic solder and it flows very well. Lower melting point than traditional 60/40 solder.
How much money, would you say, went in to the replacement parts you used to upgrade/mod/ fix this amp?
I used to work in a electric motor rewind shop. The way we stripped enamel from wire was with a small tool shaped like tweezers that had a scraper on the end. A fairly cheap, and simple tool. They're included in some solder kits, but I would imagine most people don't know what they are.
I know what they are. This enamel is crazy tough.
It sounds like it takes several pushes on the piston of the solder sucker to prime it for another try ---- why is that? Is the plunger not clearing the tip properly on the first try? What brand is it that you're using? A Solda-Pult, or some other?
Hey, I know this is an old video, but I have seen a better method for dealing with enameled wire. If you heat the very end of the wire (where it is cut), that wire will take solder as long as it is applied from the bare end. It will wick up and burn away the enamel as it is heated, no scraping required. Mr. Carlson's Lab demonstrated this method, but I don't recall on which platform the video was posted.
Tried that. Doesn’t work on these.
British hard nose quality ethic experienced @@PsionicAudio
Sucking the solder out of those turrets is *exactly* the sort of operation a vacuum-operated desoldering station is tailor-made for. As for keeping lead out of the environment, this brings up a thorny question: what do we do, what should we do, with the solder splashes, the bits and balls of solder that come out of our solder-suckers and desoldering stations, and the lead-impregnated, used desoldering braid? Other than just throw it in the trash, that is. Most municipalities have facilities and procedures in place for recycling old household paint, solvents, cleaning chemicals and the like, but toxic metals are a whole 'nother level. Ideally we should be saving the lead and copper scrap for recycling, but where would we send it?? Case in point: I actually have a dozen mercury-filled diodes, each the size of beer cans, made of glass and ceramic and each containing a tablespoon or so of liquid mercury. They came with a big batch of tubes I bought some years ago, and although they were once used in welding machines, nobody wants them nowadays, and the nearest hazardous waste facility that will accepts them is over an hour's drive away and its gonna cost me the better part of a hundred bucks to have them disposed of....
Yeah, but they clog something fierce.
I usually remove the enamel using a lighter(not for thin pickup or speaker wires, though)
What's your opinion on old valco supro amps?
@ 14.56: good solution. But remember, always cut towards the bloke standing next to you. ;-D
from a perfectionist to a perfectionist !! great job! :)
You've made a start Lyle, really interesting methods and tips as usual..Keep at it..Ed..uk.😀
Sandpaper on the coated wire. Like 120 grit.
Sandpaper or emery cloth to remove thew enamel on the transformer wires?
I have been told that manufacturers use a solder pot to burn off the enamel and pre-tin the wires but I've never tried it.. I have a solder pot and some ingots of solder for it which I picked up at a flea market or a Hamfest somewhere but it's half buried out in the garage and I've never actually used it.....
Tried that. Razor is faster.
Ehh.. Lead free solder is used in drilling tools going down an oil well. Circuit boards rated up to 175 DegC, and, I dare say, plenty of vibration/mechanical stress. Cost of a failure can run into hundred of thousands of dollars, if not millions in deep sea wells. You really think profitdriven oilcompanies would tolerate such a risk if Lead free solder was so bad as stated here?
17:15, I think I used to simply use a cigarette lighter for removing the red enamel crap. May be wrong.
Tried it. No dice. Just darkens it and the bubbly bits stick to the wire even more.
@@PsionicAudio My other idea was Formic acid. Dip and hold for 10 min. The coating should swell and peel of like your skin might. I've also had success with careful use of acetone.
I despise lead free solder
Have you tried using a solvent to remove that nasty enamel?
Although nothing I've tried in the past will remove the enamel coating, I have to wonder if Nitro methane will work, because that's a good solvent for lacquer-based threadlocking compounds such as Glyptol and other colored liquids that are used to lock bolts bolts and nuts in place. Have to be very careful working with that stuff however because it's extremely flammable.
@@goodun2974 they run dragsters on nitro methane!
@@oscardelatorre , I know they do. Remote controlled planes too, or at least they did before the advent of drone technology. I don't know if flying model planes is still a thing these days....
36:25 Comrade Lyle