They used to make "sticky backs" with a hole for a mounting screw, but then you have a holes and screws to deal with. I like using Steve Smith's epoxy or JB Weld on sticky backs. I don't know what they call those double face tape Ty-Wrap mounts but we have called those things Sticky Backs for years and that foam tape never ever lasts. Some gear makers expect those sticky backs to hold down wire the diameter of a 12AX7 tube. That never works.
In telecom work, they were called tiewrap "buttons". We *never* relied on the double-sided foam tape to hold them and always added a screw. The only other option was a thick bead of silicone adhesive around the edges of the button. They don't glue very well with epoxy ---- nothing sticks well to nylon, you have to rough up the plastic so the glue will have something to grip to. Regardless, a flexible, rubbery glue like 5200 is probably a better choice.
I saw a video of a pedalboard build where the guy used - and swears by - black Marine-type ziptie anchors. They are supposed to have much more robust adhesive. Marine-grade might be the way to go if you are going to use that type of anchor.
@@PsionicAudio Makes sense. I didint see it there but assumed it would be. What is the wire jumper from where there was a 220k to the other .022? Did you put the 220k anywhere else?
@@PsionicAudio If you use some tapping and cutting fluid only the tips need re-sharpening. I am down to the last sharpening on my 1-3/8 inch bit. It's probably 35 years old by now, and on it's 7th or 8th sharpening. The new fluids are not Trichloro-ethane based anymore so they usually do NOT remove paints or screen printing inks either. My non stepped cone bits cost north of $450 each now, and I have to ship those in from Germany. I mainly use those for deburring. They work great too.
I used that 1-3/8 at work as an automation, motor control and automated materials handling electrician, so it got a lot of use & abuse on a lot of stainless steel. Lenox used to make the best step bits. Unibit is junk.
@@Satchmoeddie, the original Unibit stepped bits had only one cutting edge; Lennox and Milwaukee have two cutting edges. They still work best if you drill a pilot hole with a standard spiral twist bit first.
Love following the journey Lyle, making Vox’s great again!
Great work as always! The fact they used 16mm pots put a bee in my bonnet to.
that board is so soothing for my anxiety/OCD.
Strange things are afoot at the Circke K. Can't wait for the next installment ;)
They used to make "sticky backs" with a hole for a mounting screw, but then you have a holes and screws to deal with. I like using Steve Smith's epoxy or JB Weld on sticky backs. I don't know what they call those double face tape Ty-Wrap mounts but we have called those things Sticky Backs for years and that foam tape never ever lasts. Some gear makers expect those sticky backs to hold down wire the diameter of a 12AX7 tube. That never works.
In telecom work, they were called tiewrap "buttons". We *never* relied on the double-sided foam tape to hold them and always added a screw. The only other option was a thick bead of silicone adhesive around the edges of the button. They don't glue very well with epoxy ---- nothing sticks well to nylon, you have to rough up the plastic so the glue will have something to grip to. Regardless, a flexible, rubbery glue like 5200 is probably a better choice.
If I thought they were necessary I could screw them down. Or just drill some nice clean holes to pass cable ties through.
I saw a video of a pedalboard build where the guy used - and swears by - black Marine-type ziptie anchors. They are supposed to have much more robust adhesive. Marine-grade might be the way to go if you are going to use that type of anchor.
What values did you use for the cathode bypass caps?
Im confused on the bass tone stack TB channel. You removed the 10k with no jumper or anything. What is happening here?
I moved it to the bass pot like in the JMIs. Shorter path.
@@PsionicAudio Makes sense. I didint see it there but assumed it would be. What is the wire jumper from where there was a 220k to the other .022? Did you put the 220k anywhere else?
Look closely at the video. I can't draw out a layout.
Do you know if the step bits can be sharpened, or do you have to replace them when they get dull?
I'm sure they could be, but I replace them.
@@PsionicAudio If you use some tapping and cutting fluid only the tips need re-sharpening. I am down to the last sharpening on my 1-3/8 inch bit. It's probably 35 years old by now, and on it's 7th or 8th sharpening. The new fluids are not Trichloro-ethane based anymore so they usually do NOT remove paints or screen printing inks either. My non stepped cone bits cost north of $450 each now, and I have to ship those in from Germany. I mainly use those for deburring. They work great too.
I used that 1-3/8 at work as an automation, motor control and automated materials handling electrician, so it got a lot of use & abuse on a lot of stainless steel. Lenox used to make the best step bits. Unibit is junk.
@@Satchmoeddie, the original Unibit stepped bits had only one cutting edge; Lennox and Milwaukee have two cutting edges. They still work best if you drill a pilot hole with a standard spiral twist bit first.
Sounds like acoustic to mellow
The game is a foot.