I never had an Rc10 but my cousin did when we were kids and it was the fastest rc I had ever seen . All of those old cars are temperamental every time we took them out something broke or went wrong . That was part of the fun fixing and upgrading them for the next time . Your video definitely makes me want to look for an Rc 10 again. Great video.
Loving the rc10, not long finished rebuilding mine, been waiting 2 months for a chassis protector to come through the post. It arrived 2 days ago so now I get to drive her!
old school buggies did have heat issues running brushed motors, a lot of the time that was mitigated by dropping down one or two teeth on the pinion gear.
Sorry I missed this one man too bad that kept over heating on you I have a gold pan B stamp Rc10 plus I’m working on my back yard track I’d love to get some saud down smoothen it out and get it from being so dusty but I think it’s gonna be a dirt bowl for a while I’m gonna show it on my channel but I need to get some stuff smoithened out and some packed down jumps and it’ll be good to go not gonna look as good as you’re old friends track or the new one so it’s just a place for me to practice at and get some laps.
Nowadays now that I can afford it I bring 5 or 6 cars every time I run. I usually have my 6 year and two or three friends (kids ‘and’ parents). I’m lucky if any cars work at the end of the day!
I have a lot of the same issues with my Super Astute. Now I make sure to bring another car to run because it always has an issue when I take it out....
For that track you can certainly jump down a few pinion teeth for acceleration if not put in a higher turn motor. I'd say a double 17 - 21t motor would work decently, if you want runtime you can certainly aim for getting enough performance where you can use 70% throttle across the straight on the track & still have extra power left too really pull ahead if needed, smooth track running similar too touring cars matters more then speed after all, specially in the professional rc racing scene (Modified pancars are super quick around the track if you've ever watched those run, super impressive driving th-cam.com/video/Yt5J3BjGQe8/w-d-xo.html I'd also put a little toe out on this buggy & a bit toe in on the rear if you got that adjustment available, needs a bit more rebound in the front as well as it kind of springs the rear forward in the jumps atm. Could be worth putting a fan on the esc as well if you got one of those 40mm fans that can run off the bec of the esc & you got enough room for it or can use a plug directly in the receiver.
Thanks for the comment. I only ran the twister motor in it because i wanted to use a vintage set up in it for its 1st initial run. I bought the twister motor to add to my motor collection and so it gave me an excuse to try it out in this RC10. Like you said... I'm actually going to put either a 19t or 21t brushed motor in it and drop down the pinion for a little bit more zip in the acceleration. I just really wanted to get this out on my friends track and have some fun and get video footage of it. Next is to get a setup in it that meets the requirments of what we race on my friends track. thanks for the tips and knowledge and most importantly your support.
@@RCRetro No problem, i myself am just setting aside some money that i can too get my mini-z's & my hpi e-firestorm up & running & some useful things like a low voltage alarm here for some lipos that are sitting around from the wltoys k989 when a store in Sweden had them for sale for like 3 usd each for a 400 mah 2s lipo. Might go with said 400 mah 2s lipo in my mini-z monster if i can work out the radio glitching on that old 27 mhz board & get some servo parts ordered. (It has a pair of pretty good mosfets on there so it can take modded motors & high voltages just fine.) Speed wise i might just settle for a pn racing 70t motor so i can run both aaa's & the 2s lipo when i want too as its fairly easy too mount the lipo anywhere really its so light anyway vs the aaa's heh.
Marcus has some good advice. Also, for the intial turn-in (understeer) issue, your diff adjustment has a big part of that. If it is too tight, it will understeer through the corner. Too loose, and it'll slip, as you already found out. The Stealth diff is very finicky to adjustment. Even just a 1/16th of a turn with the allen wrench makes a noticeable difference. As the diff wears, it'll change, so you'll have to adjust accordingly. Softer springs or less preload in front and more in rear can help too, as Marcus touched on.
I never had an Rc10 but my cousin did when we were kids and it was the fastest rc I had ever seen . All of those old cars are temperamental every time we took them out something broke or went wrong . That was part of the fun fixing and upgrading them for the next time . Your video definitely makes me want to look for an Rc 10 again. Great video.
Loving the rc10, not long finished rebuilding mine, been waiting 2 months for a chassis protector to come through the post. It arrived 2 days ago so now I get to drive her!
That is one awesome vintage backyard track.
thanks. It is my friend Harry's track.
old school buggies did have heat issues running brushed motors, a lot of the time that was mitigated by dropping down one or two teeth on the pinion gear.
That car is beautiful! Great job.
Sorry I missed this one man too bad that kept over heating on you I have a gold pan B stamp Rc10 plus I’m working on my back yard track I’d love to get some saud down smoothen it out and get it from being so dusty but I think it’s gonna be a dirt bowl for a while I’m gonna show it on my channel but I need to get some stuff smoithened out and some packed down jumps and it’ll be good to go not gonna look as good as you’re old friends track or the new one so it’s just a place for me to practice at and get some laps.
Nowadays now that I can afford it I bring 5 or 6 cars every time I run. I usually have my 6 year and two or three friends (kids ‘and’ parents). I’m lucky if any cars work at the end of the day!
Man when you get quality footage ur driving improves 🤔🤔
harry dods LOL... I know right so weird! Thanks buddy
In two months, all RC drivers from the city are in the small garden with a big party for family and kids. 😂😂😂 Corona can´t stop RC driving.
I have a lot of the same issues with my Super Astute. Now I make sure to bring another car to run because it always has an issue when I take it out....
For that track you can certainly jump down a few pinion teeth for acceleration if not put in a higher turn motor.
I'd say a double 17 - 21t motor would work decently, if you want runtime you can certainly aim for getting enough performance where you can use 70% throttle across the straight on the track & still have extra power left too really pull ahead if needed, smooth track running similar too touring cars matters more then speed after all, specially in the professional rc racing scene
(Modified pancars are super quick around the track if you've ever watched those run, super impressive driving th-cam.com/video/Yt5J3BjGQe8/w-d-xo.html
I'd also put a little toe out on this buggy & a bit toe in on the rear if you got that adjustment available, needs a bit more rebound in the front as well as it kind of springs the rear forward in the jumps atm.
Could be worth putting a fan on the esc as well if you got one of those 40mm fans that can run off the bec of the esc & you got enough room for it or can use a plug directly in the receiver.
Thanks for the comment. I only ran the twister motor in it because i wanted to use a vintage set up in it for its 1st initial run. I bought the twister motor to add to my motor collection and so it gave me an excuse to try it out in this RC10. Like you said... I'm actually going to put either a 19t or 21t brushed motor in it and drop down the pinion for a little bit more zip in the acceleration. I just really wanted to get this out on my friends track and have some fun and get video footage of it. Next is to get a setup in it that meets the requirments of what we race on my friends track. thanks for the tips and knowledge and most importantly your support.
@@RCRetro No problem, i myself am just setting aside some money that i can too get my mini-z's & my hpi e-firestorm up & running & some useful things like a low voltage alarm here for some lipos that are sitting around from the wltoys k989 when a store in Sweden had them for sale for like 3 usd each for a 400 mah 2s lipo.
Might go with said 400 mah 2s lipo in my mini-z monster if i can work out the radio glitching on that old 27 mhz board & get some servo parts ordered.
(It has a pair of pretty good mosfets on there so it can take modded motors & high voltages just fine.)
Speed wise i might just settle for a pn racing 70t motor so i can run both aaa's & the 2s lipo when i want too as its fairly easy too mount the lipo anywhere really its so light anyway vs the aaa's heh.
Marcus has some good advice. Also, for the intial turn-in (understeer) issue, your diff adjustment has a big part of that. If it is too tight, it will understeer through the corner. Too loose, and it'll slip, as you already found out. The Stealth diff is very finicky to adjustment. Even just a 1/16th of a turn with the allen wrench makes a noticeable difference. As the diff wears, it'll change, so you'll have to adjust accordingly. Softer springs or less preload in front and more in rear can help too, as Marcus touched on.
If you don't mind me asking who painted your viper body? What tires and wheels did you use when running the car in the track?
Tires are Holeshots and the body came pre-painted from someone who I bought a whole bunch of RC stuff from. So I cant say who painted it.