When I looked up Scarifying, yours was the first video that appeared, and I was so pleased that it was from the UK! I am originally from Chichester, in Sussex, and emigrated to the USA 22 years ago, to Morgantown, in the state of West Virginia. I have noticed that I have areas of my lawn containing moss and I'm looking into ways that I can fix this. One thing that I wasn't sure that I heard in your video was when to undertake this activity - I would assume towards the end of summer or even in the autumn, right? Thanks again for your excellent video, you have a great way of explaining things, and I look forward to checking out some other videos of yours!
Robbie cheers mate, got myself a petrol scarifer , rebuilt it and looks great . Cannot wait to get into the lawn for a full reseed top dress . My OCD doctor told me it is all your fault, and all these videos as apparently he is a viewer as well, and had a T-shirt of yours on when he saw me lol.. So i have order a T-shirt as well...
@@davel831 the thing with the elite scarifier is you have to hold them back. No pushing required 😁 My dad always says you never regret buying good gear.
Oh I wish my lawn was as easy as this one. I’ve got loads of flat-lying grass (that’s 4-6” long when teased up) plus patches of meadow grass. These are like tangles of hair that hasn’t been combed for years. And when I try to tease them up, often clumps of soil come up too - so I have to be careful lifting them. I’ve got an electric (battery) scarifier (with a rake rotor too) but I’ve just spent 2 hours on manual raking just 10m2 using a Wolf scarifying rake - manual in order to understand the problem before hitting it with the machine scarifier…. The weather’s mild (20C and lawn isn’t stressed. So now I’m pondering on whether to do the whole 300m2 lawn manually before repeating with machine (scarifier oir rake?), or just go straight in with rake fitting on high and work down, or hold back until Sept and maching scarify then. Any other options? What to do….?
Try verticuting your grass once a month and changing the angle by 2 steps either way so you eventually over time reduce all of the lateral growth,never cube ,just cycle the work, feed every six weeks and water afterwards.
My garden is really damp (rushes growing through it) and heavy 3 inch deep moss . Any tips on making it less damp without installing a physical drain? Vids are great!
Hi Robbie im thinking about scarifying my lawn i have the same Pro-Kleen product as u featured in your video was wondering what other product i would need to giv my lawn the best chance.....Thanks 👍
Thanks Robbie. Great video. One question; if you jad a large area of scutch grass would it be a waste to over seed it with the methods you show or would it be better to burn off and completely reseed? Thank you
Great video Robbie. So if you were doing a renovation of a lawn, what would be your step by step method to doing so? And if you are spraying iron and also need to seed, then how long of a gap do you leave?
Thoroughly enjoyed that Robbie, thanks very much for making it. You mention that it's pertinent to leave a gap between the lawn sand and when you overseed - what sort of time period are we talking here? A week? 2? Or longer term like a month?
Hi Robbie, Your videos are amazing. Very informative. I plan on scarifying and aerating my lawn on Saturday and then overseeding. Do I need to throw any extra top soil or anything down? Or can I get away with then just rolling the seed down? Thanks Many thanks
Let's work it out together. It will depend on the seed (it should say on the bag the rate) To overseed it can be from 20 grams to 50 grams per m2. If the application rate is 20 grams per m2 and the area is 100m2, then the total amount of seed required can be calculated as follows: Total seed required = Application rate x Area Substituting the given values, we get: Total seed required = 20 grams/m2 x 100 m2 = 2000 grams Therefore, you would need 2000 grams of seed for an area of 100m2 if the application rate is 20 grams per m2.
I scarifi my lawn with my lawnmower to which I attach 2 spring loaded springs to the cutting blade it does a great job and also collects the thach in the bag . Am I the only one that has this as I have not seen a vid on it yet ?
Worth to share my opinion and experience. Moss Growth Nutrient Impact The positive impact of kalium and iron on moss explanation. Kalium, also known as potassium, and iron are two important nutrients for the growth and development of mosses. Both of these elements play crucial roles in different aspects of moss physiology and metabolism, and their presence in the environment can have positive impacts on the growth and survival of moss communities. Kalium is an essential nutrient for many plant species, including mosses. It is involved in a wide range of physiological processes, such as photosynthesis, water transport, and ion regulation. In mosses, kalium is particularly important for the maintenance of cell turgor pressure, which is essential for the survival of the plant. Mosses growing in environments with sufficient kalium concentrations are likely to have higher rates of photosynthesis and better water balance, which can lead to increased growth and reproduction. Iron is also an important nutrient for mosses, as it plays a crucial role in the production of chlorophyll, the pigment that enables photosynthesis. Mosses growing in environments with low iron concentrations are likely to have reduced rates of photosynthesis and growth, and may be more susceptible to environmental stressors such as drought or high temperatures. By contrast, mosses growing in environments with sufficient iron concentrations are likely to have higher rates of photosynthesis and growth, and may be better able to withstand adverse conditions. In summary, both kalium and iron can have positive impacts on the growth and survival of moss communities. Mosses growing in environments with sufficient levels of these nutrients are likely to have higher rates of photosynthesis, better water balance, and improved growth and reproduction. Therefore, ensuring that moss habitats have adequate levels of these nutrients is an important aspect of moss conservation and management.
Kalium (potassium), is a nutrient that mosses need to grow and stay healthy. It does three important things for mosses: Helps moss cells maintain the right amount of water inside, so they don't dry out or burst. Regulates small openings on the surface of mosses called stomata, which are like tiny mouths that let in carbon dioxide for photosynthesis, while limiting water loss. Helps activate enzymes, which are like tiny machines inside moss cells that help them grow and produce energy. Without enough kalium, mosses may not grow properly and could become weaker. iron is an important micronutrient that mosses need for chlorophyll synthesis, electron transport, and enzyme activation. A deficiency of iron can result in chlorosis, or yellowing of the moss, and reduced growth and vigor. Though it's also what we put on to control the moss, it does this by applying high concentrations of iron that are toxic to the mosses it can cause damage to the cell membranes, leading to dehydration and ultimately, the death of the moss
Great tips Robbie 💯 the manual scarifier definitely comes in handy in those hard to reach areas
Hey Jordan, have you started your lawn renovations yet?
@@Premier_lawns_official not yet, we've had constant wet weather and lots of snow so I've put the renovations back to April
@@Jordan.E Nightmare mate, I'm the same
When I looked up Scarifying, yours was the first video that appeared, and I was so pleased that it was from the UK! I am originally from Chichester, in Sussex, and emigrated to the USA 22 years ago, to Morgantown, in the state of West Virginia. I have noticed that I have areas of my lawn containing moss and I'm looking into ways that I can fix this. One thing that I wasn't sure that I heard in your video was when to undertake this activity - I would assume towards the end of summer or even in the autumn, right? Thanks again for your excellent video, you have a great way of explaining things, and I look forward to checking out some other videos of yours!
Yes, spring or autumn is your best bet. Once a year, welcome to the channel 🙂👍
Robbie forever the professional finish. Outstanding video. Damien gardening channel from Cork City
You’re from Cork like my Nan and Roy Keane love them both but wouldn’t mess with either
Thanks pal, hope you are well. Much snow down your way?
@@Premier_lawns_official sleety snow its not sticking Robbie. How about you lad?
Whiteout here
Awesome video Robbie. I cant wait to start on my lawn now. Just need some proper spring weather in Hertfordshire.
We are covered in snow right now
*Hi, je doet het zo geweldig! Je hebt het goed gedaan - je verdient een like, keep it up!*
Thank you 🙏🏻
Robbie cheers mate, got myself a petrol scarifer , rebuilt it and looks great . Cannot wait to get into the lawn for a full reseed top dress . My OCD doctor told me it is all your fault, and all these videos as apparently he is a viewer as well, and had a T-shirt of yours on when he saw me lol.. So i have order a T-shirt as well...
What did you buy Dave?
@@Premier_lawns_official same as my mentor (you) Elliot relaxed the blades and serviced
@@davel831 the thing with the elite scarifier is you have to hold them back. No pushing required 😁
My dad always says you never regret buying good gear.
@@Premier_lawns_official he is a wise man ! I have to do my garden and the church lawns this year. No pressure!!!!!
That should read replaced
Nice Video, Greting from Germany ❤
Hey. sigg👋 😁
Oh I wish my lawn was as easy as this one. I’ve got loads of flat-lying grass (that’s 4-6” long when teased up) plus patches of meadow grass. These are like tangles of hair that hasn’t been combed for years. And when I try to tease them up, often clumps of soil come up too - so I have to be careful lifting them. I’ve got an electric (battery) scarifier (with a rake rotor too) but I’ve just spent 2 hours on manual raking just 10m2 using a Wolf scarifying rake - manual in order to understand the problem before hitting it with the machine scarifier….
The weather’s mild (20C and lawn isn’t stressed. So now I’m pondering on whether to do the whole 300m2 lawn manually before repeating with machine (scarifier oir rake?), or just go straight in with rake fitting on high and work down, or hold back until Sept and maching scarify then. Any other options? What to do….?
Try verticuting your grass once a month and changing the angle by 2 steps either way so you eventually over time reduce all of the lateral growth,never cube ,just cycle the work, feed every six weeks
and water afterwards.
great video. bulletproof honda engines on your scarifier
Can't beat honda on engines on the tools 👍
My garden is really damp (rushes growing through it) and heavy 3 inch deep moss . Any tips on making it less damp without installing a physical drain? Vids are great!
If you Scarify then treat with Iron, How long after this visit would you recommend coming back to over seed and top dress ?
I used to think a couple of weeks, but this video blew my mind in regards to iron and seed
th-cam.com/video/s-AOCgmwdk0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xm_Tq2JtdKPciacs
Hi Robbie im thinking about scarifying my lawn i have the same Pro-Kleen product as u featured in your video was wondering what other product i would need to giv my lawn the best chance.....Thanks 👍
Thanks Robbie. Great video. One question; if you jad a large area of scutch grass would it be a waste to over seed it with the methods you show or would it be better to burn off and completely reseed? Thank you
Hi Robbie, what is the best length handle for that rake in your link? I’m 6’ tall and love the idea of keeping back straight. Thanks
Great video Robbie. So if you were doing a renovation of a lawn, what would be your step by step method to doing so? And if you are spraying iron and also need to seed, then how long of a gap do you leave?
Need to give the iron time to leave the soil. A week should do it after it's been watered to be on the safe side
Thoroughly enjoyed that Robbie, thanks very much for making it.
You mention that it's pertinent to leave a gap between the lawn sand and when you overseed - what sort of time period are we talking here? A week? 2? Or longer term like a month?
At least a few days after it has seen some water or a week
@@Premier_lawns_official excellent, I thought it would be a straight forward answer 👍
I enjoy these videos more than is acceptable for a 35 year old …oh hang on… I’m 53… when did that happen?
It's sneaky 🤯
It’s not Friday til Robbie’s said Wot about your don’t think we’ll be mowing scarifying or anything this weekend boys and girls
I might even get a weekend off myself!
Hi Robbie,
Your videos are amazing. Very informative. I plan on scarifying and aerating my lawn on Saturday and then overseeding. Do I need to throw any extra top soil or anything down? Or can I get away with then just rolling the seed down?
Thanks
Many thanks
hey, did you throw extra soil down? how did you get on?
Top job. When would be earliest time of year to scarify?
Here you go th-cam.com/video/OiBCXkE9Ues/w-d-xo.html
Hi Robbie, love the videos-with a view to overseeding, roughly what kind of quantity would be needed for 100m2. Thanks
Let's work it out together. It will depend on the seed (it should say on the bag the rate) To overseed it can be from 20 grams to 50 grams per m2.
If the application rate is 20 grams per m2 and the area is 100m2, then the total amount of seed required can be calculated as follows:
Total seed required = Application rate x Area
Substituting the given values, we get:
Total seed required = 20 grams/m2 x 100 m2 = 2000 grams
Therefore, you would need 2000 grams of seed for an area of 100m2 if the application rate is 20 grams per m2.
@@Premier_lawns_official I appreciate that Robbie, especially on a Friday evening. Thanks, looking forward to more of these videos. Cheers.
@@noksucowboy your more than welcome, you should check out the community too facebook.com/groups/premierlawnscommunity
@@Premier_lawns_official following 👍
I scarifi my lawn with my lawnmower to which I attach 2 spring loaded springs to the cutting blade it does a great job and also collects the thach in the bag . Am I the only one that has this as I have not seen a vid on it yet ?
I'm not a big fan of them
@@Premier_lawns_officialwhy is that?
I’ve just scarified my lawn but I can still see a few patches of yellow. Can I hit it again or does it need time to recover?
Hard to say, can do it again at the end of the season too!
Worth to share my opinion and experience.
Moss Growth Nutrient Impact
The positive impact of kalium and iron on moss explanation.
Kalium, also known as potassium, and iron are two important nutrients for the growth and development of mosses. Both of these elements play crucial roles in different aspects of moss physiology and metabolism, and their presence in the environment can have positive impacts on the growth and survival of moss communities.
Kalium is an essential nutrient for many plant species, including mosses. It is involved in a wide range of physiological processes, such as photosynthesis, water transport, and ion regulation. In mosses, kalium is particularly important for the maintenance of cell turgor pressure, which is essential for the survival of the plant. Mosses growing in environments with sufficient kalium concentrations are likely to have higher rates of photosynthesis and better water balance, which can lead to increased growth and reproduction.
Iron is also an important nutrient for mosses, as it plays a crucial role in the production of chlorophyll, the pigment that enables photosynthesis. Mosses growing in environments with low iron concentrations are likely to have reduced rates of photosynthesis and growth, and may be more susceptible to environmental stressors such as drought or high temperatures. By contrast, mosses growing in environments with sufficient iron concentrations are likely to have higher rates of photosynthesis and growth, and may be better able to withstand adverse conditions.
In summary, both kalium and iron can have positive impacts on the growth and survival of moss communities. Mosses growing in environments with sufficient levels of these nutrients are likely to have higher rates of photosynthesis, better water balance, and improved growth and reproduction. Therefore, ensuring that moss habitats have adequate levels of these nutrients is an important aspect of moss conservation and management.
Kalium (potassium), is a nutrient that mosses need to grow and stay healthy. It does three important things for mosses:
Helps moss cells maintain the right amount of water inside, so they don't dry out or burst.
Regulates small openings on the surface of mosses called stomata, which are like tiny mouths that let in carbon dioxide for photosynthesis, while limiting water loss.
Helps activate enzymes, which are like tiny machines inside moss cells that help them grow and produce energy.
Without enough kalium, mosses may not grow properly and could become weaker.
iron is an important micronutrient that mosses need for chlorophyll synthesis, electron transport, and enzyme activation. A deficiency of iron can result in chlorosis, or yellowing of the moss, and reduced growth and vigor. Though it's also what we put on to control the moss, it does this by applying
high concentrations of iron that are toxic to the mosses it can cause damage to the cell membranes, leading to dehydration and ultimately, the death of the moss
👍🇺🇦🤝