Thank you so much for this video. Also, special thanks for using the stock Tamiya steel axle trusses (Tamiya calls them "stays" in the instruction manual) on top of the axle tubes. All too often these days, I see so many (way too many) modified Clod Busters with the stock plastic gearcases and machined aluminum axle tubes bolted to them without the stock steel axle trusses or aftermarket aluminum trusses bolted on. The stiff aluminum axle tubes will not flex as much as the stock plastic ones and thus transmit all of the impact of the truck landing directly onto the stock plastic gearcase. That is a recipe for a broken plastic gearcase after a jump every time. If you never jump your Clod Buster or Bull Head, then there will not be any problems but why risk it, especially since those stock steel axle trusses are already included with the truck? I don't get it and it was something that I don't remember seeing back in the day but it is quite common today for some unknown reason. When I look at used Clod Busters and Bull Heads for sale I constantly see plastic gearcases with aluminum axle tubes bolted to them with no trusses in sight. For those that are just getting started into modifying one of these trucks, do not do that if you want your gearcases to last past one jump. Thanks again for the video!
I kept breaking the front axle tubes for my Clod, since I’m on a budget, I replaced the front ones for now with these aluminum ones. I will eventually, replace the rear tubes. I don’t know if it was just me, but I had an issue with fitting the stock drive axles, I had to not use one of the washer spacer for each drive axles, otherwise it’d be too tight, causing the bearings to bind and hard to spin. It’s actually a perfect fit without one of the washer, there was no lateral play unlike the plastic axle tubes even with both washers on each end against the E clip. I thought I wanted to share.
I’m glad that I read your comment, because I just had the same problem with what you stated. The axles would not turn with the washer behind the e-clip . I guess they didn’t take off for the washer under engineering for the axles.,
@@brianwood9849 Which ends did you used the washers in? For me, I kept them at the wheel ends, so that the dog bones are moved closer to the wheel shafts, and helps with keeping them in the slots, especially when turning.
@@galkawarrior good idea I didn’t think of that. Also what did you use the 4 small bearings for that came with the axle tubes? I don’t know what their for because the boys ones that go in tubes are larger.
Love your devotion! Just getting backing into "ClodBustin", my ole' clod is suffering from a broke chassis. I bought a reinforcement plate on Ebay, still trying to figure out the suspension now:(
Those look awesome..you would think RC4WD would have made those CVD's correct though, Thanks for the shoutout brother. 😁👍 O if your looking for speed with some gear protection use a light oil it will be better than running bone dry.
I just bought some of these Hot Racing axle tubes and couldn’t use the washers behind the e-clips. Also where do the small bearings go that come with the tubes? Thanks
Very informative vids,which will help many.Also really nice to see a "MODEL RC`er" using a screwdriver. Who really needs a electric driver on a model? come on be honest.
I found the same issues with the axles i got.... The case wouldn't got together with the c clips installed... I ended up modifying tbe shafts with a belt sander....
Hi, big fan of your channel so thank you for the great content! I would like to build myself a custom clod with an off the shelf aftermarket chassis. Was wondering if there are any in particular that you would recommend or that I should stay away from?
I am looking to build a good handling truck for fun driving around the yard and jumping. I don't bash the crap out of my vehicles but I do plan on putting it to good use.
@@ianrosalia2499 Crawford performance makes some good chassis kits but it looks like they discontinued a few chassis’s ACRC makes some nice stuff too, you can find them on Facebook
Hey, buddy. I know you’re a busy man, but I’m confused about something and figured it’s time to ask the king of clods. I’m shopping for the HR aluminum axel tubes, but some say they need the HR steering knuckles. Do you know which ones will accommodate the original plastic knuckles? Thanks
They offer two versions ones that fit stock knuckles and ones that have smaller c hubs that fit their knuckles. You need the ones with the large c hubs www.towerhobbies.com/product/drive-shaft-tube-w-bearing-c-hubs-clodbuster/HRACB1020.html
That’s a great idea I never thought of that , it’s used so it’s already somewhat broken down and thinned out but still has anti wear properties. I’m gonna start doing that. Thanks for the tip
Prices vary depending on how it’s built. Prices range from around $400 for a clod built with all new parts that’s mildly upgraded to around $1000 for a full on brushless race clod that’s ready to run
Would you be able to advice on this? I want to buy and run a Clod. I would like it to be fun to drive and not left behind by entry level tamiya buggies say. Also i have seen clods that bounce all over the place. What would you say needs to be done as a must on a new clod, i have taken the elecs options on this vid as a rough starting point ,perhaps slightly lesser. Also being in the UK upgrades are hard to find. thanks
The brushless motor setup is expensive because you have to run two esc’s a good alternative is the hpi 15 turn fire bolt motors you can usually find them on eBay pretty cheap but you’ll have to upgrade the esc to either a hobbywing dual motor esc or a traxxas Evx-2 also the newer clod kits come with aluminum pinion gears that can melt on long full throttle runs, old clod pinions were steel or you can get new ones from Robinson racing. Rc4wd makes good motors too, aim for around the 15t range and get ones with zero timing because the rear motor on a clod is reverse rotation so with a zero timed motor you can just reverse the leads otherwise you will need a reverse rotation motor. As far as shocks, cheap eBay 100mm shocks seem to work as good as the expensive ones. Good luck with the build 👍🏻
Those tires sitting in the background on the workbench are Pro Line Giant Trac tires, the same ones that I have on my ESP Clodzilla IV truck. They were discontinued many years ago. They were quite common back in the day and I actually bought mine off of the shelf at my local hobby shop.
Thank you so much for this video. Also, special thanks for using the stock Tamiya steel axle trusses (Tamiya calls them "stays" in the instruction manual) on top of the axle tubes. All too often these days, I see so many (way too many) modified Clod Busters with the stock plastic gearcases and machined aluminum axle tubes bolted to them without the stock steel axle trusses or aftermarket aluminum trusses bolted on. The stiff aluminum axle tubes will not flex as much as the stock plastic ones and thus transmit all of the impact of the truck landing directly onto the stock plastic gearcase. That is a recipe for a broken plastic gearcase after a jump every time. If you never jump your Clod Buster or Bull Head, then there will not be any problems but why risk it, especially since those stock steel axle trusses are already included with the truck? I don't get it and it was something that I don't remember seeing back in the day but it is quite common today for some unknown reason.
When I look at used Clod Busters and Bull Heads for sale I constantly see plastic gearcases with aluminum axle tubes bolted to them with no trusses in sight. For those that are just getting started into modifying one of these trucks, do not do that if you want your gearcases to last past one jump.
Thanks again for the video!
@Locoboy5150 thanks for watching. Definitely have to run the stays
“Cleanliness is next to Clodliness” LOL 👍🏻
I kept breaking the front axle tubes for my Clod, since I’m on a budget, I replaced the front ones for now with these aluminum ones. I will eventually, replace the rear tubes. I don’t know if it was just me, but I had an issue with fitting the stock drive axles, I had to not use one of the washer spacer for each drive axles, otherwise it’d be too tight, causing the bearings to bind and hard to spin. It’s actually a perfect fit without one of the washer, there was no lateral play unlike the plastic axle tubes even with both washers on each end against the E clip. I thought I wanted to share.
I’m glad that I read your comment, because I just had the same problem with what you stated. The axles would not turn with the washer behind the e-clip . I guess they didn’t take off for the washer under engineering for the axles.,
@@brianwood9849 Which ends did you used the washers in? For me, I kept them at the wheel ends, so that the dog bones are moved closer to the wheel shafts, and helps with keeping them in the slots, especially when turning.
@@galkawarrior good idea I didn’t think of that. Also what did you use the 4 small bearings for that came with the axle tubes? I don’t know what their for because the boys ones that go in tubes are larger.
@@brianwood9849 those bearings are for the steering knuckle pins.
@@galkawarrior oh ok gotcha must replace the washers.,yeah I use the aluminum knuckles so it’s different than the plastic knuckles thanks
Labelle 106 is a really slippery grease, it creates allot less drag when compared to the Cera-grease.
He's alive!
Haha ya I been crazy busy
Love your devotion! Just getting backing into "ClodBustin", my ole' clod is suffering from a broke chassis. I bought a reinforcement plate on Ebay, still trying to figure out the suspension now:(
Those look awesome..you would think RC4WD would have made those CVD's correct though, Thanks for the shoutout brother. 😁👍 O if your looking for speed with some gear protection use a light oil it will be better than running bone dry.
I was surprised that the rc4wd axles didn’t fit right but wasn’t too big of a deal
I just bought some of these Hot Racing axle tubes and couldn’t use the washers behind the e-clips. Also where do the small bearings go that come with the tubes? Thanks
Hey clod
What a great idea glass
Nice clean surface
Very informative vids,which will help many.Also really nice to see a "MODEL RC`er" using a screwdriver. Who really needs a electric driver on a model? come on be honest.
Cleanly-ness is next to Clodly-ness
🤘🤣🤘
I found the same issues with the axles i got.... The case wouldn't got together with the c clips installed... I ended up modifying tbe shafts with a belt sander....
Where do you get the axle tubes.. I desperately need them and they are sold out EVERYWHERE !!!
I bought mine through tower hobbies but had to wait a while. I found the best thing to do is keep checking eBay they seem to be on their often
Nice a new video
Where can I find them.
Hi, big fan of your channel so thank you for the great content! I would like to build myself a custom clod with an off the shelf aftermarket chassis. Was wondering if there are any in particular that you would recommend or that I should stay away from?
Are you looking to build a race clod or more of a retro clod?
I am looking to build a good handling truck for fun driving around the yard and jumping. I don't bash the crap out of my vehicles but I do plan on putting it to good use.
@@ianrosalia2499 Crawford performance makes some good chassis kits but it looks like they discontinued a few chassis’s ACRC makes some nice stuff too, you can find them on Facebook
Mr Clod scares me
Why use a .468 drill rather than a counterbore? If you have access to a Bridgeport, then you have a counterbore I would think......
That would be better but I was home all of my equipment is at my shop and I wanted to show people that they can get the job done with basic tools.
Can You Do Another Giveaway Please?
Hey, buddy. I know you’re a busy man, but I’m confused about something and figured it’s time to ask the king of clods. I’m shopping for the HR aluminum axel tubes, but some say they need the HR steering knuckles. Do you know which ones will accommodate the original plastic knuckles? Thanks
They offer two versions ones that fit stock knuckles and ones that have smaller c hubs that fit their knuckles. You need the ones with the large c hubs
www.towerhobbies.com/product/drive-shaft-tube-w-bearing-c-hubs-clodbuster/HRACB1020.html
@@clodbusted1776 thank you very much. You sent a link and everything. Much appreciated!
@@willywalken no problem any other questions don’t hesitate to ask
Used Oil lube, less friction than thick grease or metal on metal grind.
That’s a great idea I never thought of that , it’s used so it’s already somewhat broken down and thinned out but still has anti wear properties. I’m gonna start doing that. Thanks for the tip
How much do you charge to build a clod buster
Prices vary depending on how it’s built. Prices range from around $400 for a clod built with all new parts that’s mildly upgraded to around $1000 for a full on brushless race clod that’s ready to run
@@clodbusted1776 so for a mild upgrade does it come with brushless system any aluminum parts?
Would you be able to advice on this? I want to buy and run a Clod. I would like it to be fun to drive and not left behind by entry level tamiya buggies say. Also i have seen clods that bounce all over the place. What would you say needs to be done as a must on a new clod, i have taken the elecs options on this vid as a rough starting point ,perhaps slightly lesser. Also being in the UK upgrades are hard to find. thanks
The brushless motor setup is expensive because you have to run two esc’s a good alternative is the hpi 15 turn fire bolt motors you can usually find them on eBay pretty cheap but you’ll have to upgrade the esc to either a hobbywing dual motor esc or a traxxas Evx-2 also the newer clod kits come with aluminum pinion gears that can melt on long full throttle runs, old clod pinions were steel or you can get new ones from Robinson racing. Rc4wd makes good motors too, aim for around the 15t range and get ones with zero timing because the rear motor on a clod is reverse rotation so with a zero timed motor you can just reverse the leads otherwise you will need a reverse rotation motor. As far as shocks, cheap eBay 100mm shocks seem to work as good as the expensive ones. Good luck with the build 👍🏻
@@clodbusted1776 thank you for taking time to help, the motor info is very helpful.
@@garymurphy5133 no problem glad to help
Hot Racing is great!
Yes they are !
What do these axles do that the stock ones don't apart from making your wallet lighter?
He answered your question at 1:00 in the video.
what clodbuster tires are those? thx
Those were old tires sold by esp in the early 90's
Those tires sitting in the background on the workbench are Pro Line Giant Trac tires, the same ones that I have on my ESP Clodzilla IV truck. They were discontinued many years ago. They were quite common back in the day and I actually bought mine off of the shelf at my local hobby shop.
Johnny Bravo Weld