im on my second 2500hd after owning an old 97 3500 and i love these trucks and beat the shit out of them. i can put a ton in my bed and the truck just levels out lol. no squat. 6.0 gas. so good. i look down on 6 luggers hehe@@bruceblackerby3742
Nice video. My two cents as far as GM is concerned is if you plan on ordering a diesel, then go ahead and get the 3500. Price is not much different and you get the 12” ring gear and full power in 1st gear. If you’re just buying off the lot then get the truck that has the options you are looking for regardless if it’s a 2500 or 3500. If you’re ordering a gas truck I don’t think it matters. I’d just get the 2500 (it’s what I did) and save the roughly $900 difference OR get some other option you were on the fence about getting for the extra money. For 2020-2023 gas trucks they all have a 24,000 GCWR including duallies so the gooseneck tow rating actually decreases slightly from a 2500 to a 3500 and then again to a 3500 dually. That will change for 2024 however. If you plan on buying a truck to tow a big fifth wheel, just get the dually. It will be a daylight and dark difference in your towing experience. Also I’ve read a lot comments about CDLs in this. Federal CDL laws are cut and dry. 10,001-up GVWR requires you to have a medical examiners certificate. 26,001-up GVWR requires a Class B license. Combination vehicle with a 26,001-up GVWR AND the trailer having a 10,000-up GVWR requires a Class A license. Air brakes will always require a CDL. All of this is only if you are operating the vehicle for commercial (business) use. Private use this does not apply. Now we all live in different states and states have different laws that might require different licenses for some of these trucks even when it’s for personal use.
First of all, never ask a sales person about technical stuff. 97% of them will guide you down some rosy path within their tiny little minds. Find a DOT manual and study it. JB, you do a good job of explaining the weight parameters. Most people of whom I see on the interstate are overloaded, and are a BIG safety risk rolling down the road. Always get more truck than you think that you will need, kind of like purchasing a tractor, always get one or two sizes above what you think that you need. Actually, it is insane that these pick-ups can tow well over 20k. If I had to tow over 20k, I'd be shopping for a medium duty truck, with industrial engines, axles, and air brakes. Great job, JB!!
My question was alway SRW or DRW. Thanks to your channel (and some others) I ended up getting a 3500 DRW gas truck to haul a truck camper that weights 2880 dry. Add water, propane, my healthy self, a doggo and “stuff” I’m very happy with the 3500 DRW. Drives likes a breeze and no issues with semi trailer passing - in regards to both power and stability. My pay load is about 6100 and I’m no where near that, which makes me happy. So many overloaded trucks out there, it’s scary. 😮 Thanks again for all your good info. I knew nothing about HD trucks previously but now I’d say I’m fairly well educated about payloads, pin weight, towing power, SRW vs DRW, etc… so Thanks to you for providing great nonjudgmental information about HD trucks. ✌🏼
Good points. GM blurs the lines a little as far as weather or not to get the 3500. A gas 2500 GM will have some high payload numbers! Ram is a no brainer unless you just need it to be registered at 10k get the 3500. 🇺🇸💪
I have a dually and will always have one as long as I am pulling a 15K pound fifth wheel. They are a hassle to park but so much less stress on travel days. I don’t worry about my pin weight because I’m not even close.
Here's what nobody talks about when it comes to fifth wheels. The large fifth wheels that exceed what most 3/4 tons are rated to pull are too long to take to most state parks. Which leaves only two choices when you go that big, either camping in those glorified parking lots called RV parks, and hoping that you can snag one of the few sites big enough for your behemoth, or buying a large toyhauler for offroading toys. The vast majority of state park rated fifth wheels are within 3/4 ton specs. So, you really need to think about what you intend to use your fifth wheel for. Some of the best parks won't let anything larger than a 32 ft trailer in. Some are 36ft. These are very important things to consider when buying your rig. For a 3/4 ton, just get the gas truck. The payload is much higher and most trailers are within your towing capacity.
The easy way to calculate pin weight is take empty trailer weight divide by listed pin weight and get the percentage. Now take gross weight of rv and multiply by the percentage and use this as your pin weight
Great video. Agreed with the comments. Go 350/3500. I have a 16 ram 2500 mega cab diesel and my payload is only 1720lbs. Sold my trailer and looking at a truck camper. This truck is useless for that. Go 1ton and you always have options. Like most said hardly a difference in price. Looking at a 7.3 f350 extended with an 8 foot box and has a stickered payload of 4800lbs. Gas and future maintenance is cheaper. Not as economical but still less in the long term.
This is where I'm at. Bought my F250 not knowing these numbers, after buying my 5th wheel I researched more and realized all these numbers and now I'm struggling to fork out the $$$ for a new 1 ton, when my 3/4 ton is paid for
I just ordered a f350 moving from a f250. My 250 has 2400lb of payload. Looking to put an auxiliary tank in the bed. Adding the tank (500lb) would put me close to my payload when hitched up to the trailer. F350 will have a 12400 gvwr instead of 10k. No more weight issues! Hopefully it’ll be delivered within this calendar year…..😂
I prefer a one ton dually for pulling a 5th wheel the modern trucks today you can do it with a 3/4 ton but if your doing any distance & weather with a 5th wheel I prefer the stability of the dually I feel more planted especially in certain weather & roads
I'm from MN. So I go with a 1 ton from now on every time. Sure I get more towing weight with a 1 ton over a 3/4 but a 3/4 would be sufficient for my owing needs. But in MN the license fee for a 1 ton is forever, right now anyway, $120. Whereas with a 3/4 ton the fee is based off of value. So those first 2-3 years of the truck life you are paying in excess of $500-600 every year.
What is funny is that as soon as the GVWR is over 10,000 lbs it is a class 3 truck. So it may say 2500/250 on the side, but it is theoretically a 1 ton truck.
Of course, your ride quality tends to go down a lot when moving up to a one ton. Unless, you are going through a lot of high elevations on a frequent basis, a gasoline may work better and help to keep you at the 3/4 ton truck.
2500/f250 are made for commercial use to stay under the 10000 and not need a cdl. If looking at HD always go with a 350 if you can find it on the lot, they seem to stock 250 more than 350 for some reason. With Chevy their seem to not be a huge gain going from a 2500-3500 unless you go with a dually after they raised the 2500.
He didn't mention with chevy 2500HD equipped with Max Trailering package you get a 3500HD single wheel truck. Extra springs, bigger ring gear and stronger frame.
I honestly don’t know anyone personally that looks at the gvwr on their truck or trailer. We hook them up and see how the truck looks. If it’s squatted to much we add air to our air bags or tighten the springs on our road active suspension.
Because if you get into an accident and you are over your risk not being covered. My half ton looks fine with my camper but its 500 pounds over payload
Regardless of what any fanboys try to say, I wouldn't regularly tow 9-10k with a 1/2 ton truck. Just step up to the 3/4 ton if towing anything more than 8k on a regular basis
@@Mang213 If I am towing anything over 5k on a regular basis I wouldn't go half ton. The key here is "regular basis". The 3/4 ton will handle the wear and tear of towing far better than a half ton.
@@rich7447 I agree with you, I just didn't want to sound too cynical and make it appear like the current 1/2 tons are weak or anything. 🤣 for any real towing duties, always go HD
I think you can make a whole video on how the 24 GM HDs now have a max tow package that basically makes it a 1 ton.. you touched on it in your GMC video. But from what the dealer told me the 1 ton parts ( frame, axle, springs, shocks) are delayed supply issues and the 2500s will be delivered first… so you will still have to wait for your max tow 2500 so I think it’s still better to order a 3500 at this time anyway
If a vehicle is also being used in a commercial application and the GVWR exceeds 10,001 pounds you fall under the FMSCA requirements. This means the need for a US DOT number, the driver needs a DOT medical certificate etc.
@@JohnDewh 100% true if the truck is used for commercial use. That is one of the reasons GM and Ford offer derated 10,000 GVWR trucks. It’s so when a company buys them for their business the driver won’t have to get a medical card. The key is always commercial use. When it’s private use it’s solely based upon your state laws.
@@rich7447 actually it’s 26,001 and up and also the trailer has to have a GVWR of 10,000 or more. So you can tow with a 26,000 GVWR truck pulling a trailer with a 9,999 pound GVWR and not require any kind of cdl. However a 14,000 GVWR truck towing a 14,000 GVWR trailer does require a class A cdl. And again commercial use is the key. If it’s for private use it’s solely based upon on your state what kind of license you need.
Alot of what is being said is true here. But it's also true guys if you don't need a 3500 don't do it. I had a ram 3500 I just sold and went back to a 2500. The 3500 rode TERRIBLE! Unbelievably rough. This 2500 rides like a dream.... just fyi
Well not only did I go back to a 2500, I also switched to GMC. The ride is a million percent better, can't even believe it. I just hooked up my 14,000 pound 5th wheel for the first pull. Truck did AMAZING! I was worried the gas 6.6 wouldn't be enough or that the 6 speed transmission was not enough. But so far it's great. I just love the reliability of gas with the 6speed. I plan on keeping this truck a long time. I just don't trust the 10 speeds..... The only problem now is the truck is so tall, I need to flip the 5ver axles.....
Great video ,watched it twice. I do have a question. I know you talked about the 20%. Q What if the 5 W your looking at gives you the hitch weight How does that play into the 20%Rule
The mfg listed hitch weights are generally for the dry (unloaded) trailer- not the real world weight once you load all your belongings, food, gear etc… Using 20% gvwr is the safest bet since that is your max load, and likely where most end up once fully loaded. If looking at a travel trailer use 13-15% gvwr. Use this as an estimate for purchasing but still need to scale your set up to verify and fine tune.
I up graded to a 3500 gmc denali dully from a 2006 2500 the only problem is the 2023 denali has 4 hundred miles on it the machnics put most of them on it I've been unable to drive it since I've owned it setting at the dealership they can't figure out how to fix it or what's causing the problem a hundred thousand dollar piece of junk
With GM products there is no reason to get 2500 Vs a 3500 SRW if your goal to tow an RV. The ride quality is the same or negligible in difference, the handling is the same, etc. You get so many advantages with the slight increase in cost with almost no downside.
At this point i dont even know why they even make a 2500. The price difference is so minimal i feel like jumping from 1500 to 3500 should be all thats offered.
My problem w/the GM 1 tons is that dang 12.1k GVWR. That paired with 14k equipment trailers puts you in CDL territory, which is stupid. This is why I think the new "max trailering" package on the GMs with the 2500 is great. Get all the 3500 goodies but GVWR is 11,750 - staying under 12k for all those who have 14k trailers.
It all depends on your state for the cdl stuff. Federal rules are cut and dry. You don’t need them unless it’s for commercial (business) use. Some states are different though. The federal cdl law is any vehicle with a GVWR of 10,001-up required a medical examiner certificate (dot medical card). Any straight truck with a 26,0001-up GVWR requires a Class B license. Any combination vehicle with a GCWR of 26,001-up AND the trailer GVWR of 10,000-up requires a Class A license. And any time you have air brakes in the mix you will have to have a cdl. Anyways, for private use it’s up to your state. Commercial use it doesn’t matter what your state says, if you meet those requirements you have to have one.
@@matthewanderson9912 Here in MN I have an exemption to being commercial. I am in Ag, farm. Otherwise yeah, you better be DOT approved and have a number.
@@jimingvaldson7076 Kentucky is similar. There is farm use exemptions plus private use. I have a 10,650 GVWR truck and don’t have to have a medical card to drive it or a cdl of any kind to use it to pull any kind of trailer.
@@matthewanderson9912 Most of us who tow campers tow in several states, too. I’ve heard hotshotters and camper transporters say don’t get a 1 ton due to the hard numbers limiting the ¾ , ie unless you want a cdl don’t have a vehicle rated over 26,000. Now, the “max towing” packages and whatnot are making a new calculus for that.
Part of me wants to go with a 2500 part of me wants to go with a 3500 when I go to buy a truck or a heavy duty truck at some point I'm torn between the 2 For me I'd probably go long bed just for preference if. I went 3500 I would. Go srw not. Dually
If you are considering a 2500, I would go 3500. I made this mistake in 2010 and am just getting around to fixing it. The only downside is that the 3500 will be a bit rougher ride when unloaded.
You mentioned getting the 10k gvwr option at the dealer for tax purposes. Can you elaborate on that? Chevys have higher than 10k gvwr all the time even for their 2500 so what would a regular person that just toss their travel trailer lose by having a gvwr above 10k?
GM offers a no cost option to derate to 10,000 GVWR for the 2500 series trucks. When you’re ordering a truck you have to select the 10,000 GVWR if you want it. That apples for the gas and diesel trucks.
I’m getting ready to order a 24 Chevrolet this week. How does a person know exactly what the numbers will be before it is built? 2500 vs 3500 srw gasser. I’ve seen some on the lot that the 2500 is almost as much as 3500 payload. I have a fifthwheel with 2200 pin weight.
Where did KYD get the 426 figure from for the average American family ? Every 5th wheel owning, ‘healthy American eating’ family I’ve seen in an rv park would be closer to 1426 lbs 😂
And ask your self how much are you going to be driving with no trailer? Driving a 1-Ton with no weight on the rear is not a smooth ride. the 3/4 will have a better ride
The moment you are looking at a 2500, step up to a 3500. For the price difference it’s a no brainer.
Agreed!
Absolutely!
Don't even know why GM even bothers to offer a 2500.
I agree there are half tons for the majority of homeowners and light duty work. And there are one tons for heavy work .
im on my second 2500hd after owning an old 97 3500 and i love these trucks and beat the shit out of them. i can put a ton in my bed and the truck just levels out lol. no squat. 6.0 gas. so good. i look down on 6 luggers hehe@@bruceblackerby3742
Nice video. My two cents as far as GM is concerned is if you plan on ordering a diesel, then go ahead and get the 3500. Price is not much different and you get the 12” ring gear and full power in 1st gear. If you’re just buying off the lot then get the truck that has the options you are looking for regardless if it’s a 2500 or 3500.
If you’re ordering a gas truck I don’t think it matters. I’d just get the 2500 (it’s what I did) and save the roughly $900 difference OR get some other option you were on the fence about getting for the extra money. For 2020-2023 gas trucks they all have a 24,000 GCWR including duallies so the gooseneck tow rating actually decreases slightly from a 2500 to a 3500 and then again to a 3500 dually. That will change for 2024 however.
If you plan on buying a truck to tow a big fifth wheel, just get the dually. It will be a daylight and dark difference in your towing experience.
Also I’ve read a lot comments about CDLs in this. Federal CDL laws are cut and dry. 10,001-up GVWR requires you to have a medical examiners certificate. 26,001-up GVWR requires a Class B license. Combination vehicle with a 26,001-up GVWR AND the trailer having a 10,000-up GVWR requires a Class A license. Air brakes will always require a CDL. All of this is only if you are operating the vehicle for commercial (business) use. Private use this does not apply. Now we all live in different states and states have different laws that might require different licenses for some of these trucks even when it’s for personal use.
First of all, never ask a sales person about technical stuff. 97% of them will guide you down some rosy path within their tiny little minds. Find a DOT manual and study it. JB, you do a good job of explaining the weight parameters. Most people of whom I see on the interstate are overloaded, and are a BIG safety risk rolling down the road. Always get more truck than you think that you will need, kind of like purchasing a tractor, always get one or two sizes above what you think that you need. Actually, it is insane that these pick-ups can tow well over 20k. If I had to tow over 20k, I'd be shopping for a medium duty truck, with industrial engines, axles, and air brakes. Great job, JB!!
My question was alway SRW or DRW. Thanks to your channel (and some others) I ended up getting a 3500 DRW gas truck to haul a truck camper that weights 2880 dry. Add water, propane, my healthy self, a doggo and “stuff” I’m very happy with the 3500 DRW. Drives likes a breeze and no issues with semi trailer passing - in regards to both power and stability. My pay load is about 6100 and I’m no where near that, which makes me happy. So many overloaded trucks out there, it’s scary. 😮 Thanks again for all your good info. I knew nothing about HD trucks previously but now I’d say I’m fairly well educated about payloads, pin weight, towing power, SRW vs DRW, etc… so Thanks to you for providing great nonjudgmental information about HD trucks. ✌🏼
Good points. GM blurs the lines a little as far as weather or not to get the 3500. A gas 2500 GM will have some high payload numbers! Ram is a no brainer unless you just need it to be registered at 10k get the 3500. 🇺🇸💪
I have a dually and will always have one as long as I am pulling a 15K pound fifth wheel. They are a hassle to park but so much less stress on travel days. I don’t worry about my pin weight because I’m not even close.
Here's what nobody talks about when it comes to fifth wheels. The large fifth wheels that exceed what most 3/4 tons are rated to pull are too long to take to most state parks. Which leaves only two choices when you go that big, either camping in those glorified parking lots called RV parks, and hoping that you can snag one of the few sites big enough for your behemoth, or buying a large toyhauler for offroading toys. The vast majority of state park rated fifth wheels are within 3/4 ton specs. So, you really need to think about what you intend to use your fifth wheel for. Some of the best parks won't let anything larger than a 32 ft trailer in. Some are 36ft. These are very important things to consider when buying your rig. For a 3/4 ton, just get the gas truck. The payload is much higher and most trailers are within your towing capacity.
The easy way to calculate pin weight is take empty trailer weight divide by listed pin weight and get the percentage. Now take gross weight of rv and multiply by the percentage and use this as your pin weight
You can also take the gvwr minus the sum of the 2 axle ratings to get max pin weight
Really like that 3500 diesel with the z71 package.
Great video. Agreed with the comments. Go 350/3500. I have a 16 ram 2500 mega cab diesel and my payload is only 1720lbs. Sold my trailer and looking at a truck camper. This truck is useless for that. Go 1ton and you always have options. Like most said hardly a difference in price. Looking at a 7.3 f350 extended with an 8 foot box and has a stickered payload of 4800lbs. Gas and future maintenance is cheaper. Not as economical but still less in the long term.
I ran a 2500 Ram diesel for the last 12 years and was constantly having payload issues. Will never buy a 3/4 ton or less again.
Thank you, it's decided! Have to get a Dually 3500HD for full time living!
This is where I'm at. Bought my F250 not knowing these numbers, after buying my 5th wheel I researched more and realized all these numbers and now I'm struggling to fork out the $$$ for a new 1 ton, when my 3/4 ton is paid for
I just ordered a f350 moving from a f250. My 250 has 2400lb of payload. Looking to put an auxiliary tank in the bed. Adding the tank (500lb) would put me close to my payload when hitched up to the trailer. F350 will have a 12400 gvwr instead of 10k. No more weight issues! Hopefully it’ll be delivered within this calendar year…..😂
I prefer a one ton dually for pulling a 5th wheel the modern trucks today you can do it with a 3/4 ton but if your doing any distance & weather with a 5th wheel I prefer the stability of the dually I feel more planted especially in certain weather & roads
I'm from MN. So I go with a 1 ton from now on every time. Sure I get more towing weight with a 1 ton over a 3/4 but a 3/4 would be sufficient for my owing needs. But in MN the license fee for a 1 ton is forever, right now anyway, $120. Whereas with a 3/4 ton the fee is based off of value. So those first 2-3 years of the truck life you are paying in excess of $500-600 every year.
Great to know. Both are $187 for 2 years here in Maryland. When I was in Kansas both were taxed as property based on their value.
California taxes on value and weight carrying capacity.
Honestly I’d only consider a 2500 Silverado if I wanted a custom gas and wasn’t thinking of doing a gooseneck
What is funny is that as soon as the GVWR is over 10,000 lbs it is a class 3 truck. So it may say 2500/250 on the side, but it is theoretically a 1 ton truck.
Of course, your ride quality tends to go down a lot when moving up to a one ton. Unless, you are going through a lot of high elevations on a frequent basis, a gasoline may work better and help to keep you at the 3/4 ton truck.
2500/f250 are made for commercial use to stay under the 10000 and not need a cdl. If looking at HD always go with a 350 if you can find it on the lot, they seem to stock 250 more than 350 for some reason. With Chevy their seem to not be a huge gain going from a 2500-3500 unless you go with a dually after they raised the 2500.
He didn't mention with chevy 2500HD equipped with Max Trailering package you get a 3500HD single wheel truck. Extra springs, bigger ring gear and stronger frame.
Yes but when you do the math on package costs,it comes out the same in the end
JB the a/c control needed a little bit more thinking. While driving trying to touch the fan control u accidentally turn off a/c. 2024 Chevy 2500
I honestly don’t know anyone personally that looks at the gvwr on their truck or trailer. We hook them up and see how the truck looks. If it’s squatted to much we add air to our air bags or tighten the springs on our road active suspension.
Because if you get into an accident and you are over your risk not being covered. My half ton looks fine with my camper but its 500 pounds over payload
Do a video on if you have F150 when you need to step up the F250
Regardless of what any fanboys try to say, I wouldn't regularly tow 9-10k with a 1/2 ton truck. Just step up to the 3/4 ton if towing anything more than 8k on a regular basis
@@Mang213 If I am towing anything over 5k on a regular basis I wouldn't go half ton. The key here is "regular basis". The 3/4 ton will handle the wear and tear of towing far better than a half ton.
@@rich7447 I agree with you, I just didn't want to sound too cynical and make it appear like the current 1/2 tons are weak or anything. 🤣 for any real towing duties, always go HD
I’m looking at 5th wheel and only looking at 350 and the gasser which will do and have payload capacity. If money isn’t an issue it’s dually diesel
My ram 3500 HO tradesmen srw has a gvwr 12300 and a payload of 4034. I dont need all the options. I need the payload.
I think you can make a whole video on how the 24 GM HDs now have a max tow package that basically makes it a 1 ton.. you touched on it in your GMC video. But from what the dealer told me the 1 ton parts ( frame, axle, springs, shocks) are delayed supply issues and the 2500s will be delivered first… so you will still have to wait for your max tow 2500 so I think it’s still better to order a 3500 at this time anyway
I just picked up a 24 2500HD with the Max trailering package. I didn't know what it was but now I'm happy I have it
If a vehicle is also being used in a commercial application and the GVWR exceeds 10,001 pounds you fall under the FMSCA requirements. This means the need for a US DOT number, the driver needs a DOT medical certificate etc.
Not true
26000lbs
@@MrLuckytrucker21 And that is vehicle or combination rated weight.
@@JohnDewh 100% true if the truck is used for commercial use. That is one of the reasons GM and Ford offer derated 10,000 GVWR trucks. It’s so when a company buys them for their business the driver won’t have to get a medical card.
The key is always commercial use. When it’s private use it’s solely based upon your state laws.
@@rich7447 actually it’s 26,001 and up and also the trailer has to have a GVWR of 10,000 or more. So you can tow with a 26,000 GVWR truck pulling a trailer with a 9,999 pound GVWR and not require any kind of cdl. However a 14,000 GVWR truck towing a 14,000 GVWR trailer does require a class A cdl.
And again commercial use is the key. If it’s for private use it’s solely based upon on your state what kind of license you need.
That curb weight also is dry weight. It dies not include a full tank of fuel, oil, other fluids.
Once again a great video - nice comparisons. It’s always a pleasure to watch. Thanks again.
Alot of what is being said is true here. But it's also true guys if you don't need a 3500 don't do it. I had a ram 3500 I just sold and went back to a 2500. The 3500 rode TERRIBLE! Unbelievably rough. This 2500 rides like a dream.... just fyi
Always been my concern . Which one of the 2 have a better ride quality as a daily around town . Wonder if it’s any different on the GM
Well not only did I go back to a 2500, I also switched to GMC. The ride is a million percent better, can't even believe it. I just hooked up my 14,000 pound 5th wheel for the first pull. Truck did AMAZING! I was worried the gas 6.6 wouldn't be enough or that the 6 speed transmission was not enough. But so far it's great.
I just love the reliability of gas with the 6speed. I plan on keeping this truck a long time.
I just don't trust the 10 speeds.....
The only problem now is the truck is so tall, I need to flip the 5ver axles.....
Great video!
Great video ,watched it twice. I do have a question. I know you talked about the 20%. Q What if the 5 W your looking at gives you the hitch weight How does that play into the 20%Rule
The listed hitch weight is almost always lighter than actual hitch weight…take the numbers from the trailer manufacturer with a grain of salt.
The mfg listed hitch weights are generally for the dry (unloaded) trailer- not the real world weight once you load all your belongings, food, gear etc… Using 20% gvwr is the safest bet since that is your max load, and likely where most end up once fully loaded. If looking at a travel trailer use 13-15% gvwr. Use this as an estimate for purchasing but still need to scale your set up to verify and fine tune.
I up graded to a 3500 gmc denali dully from a 2006 2500 the only problem is the 2023 denali has 4 hundred miles on it the machnics put most of them on it I've been unable to drive it since I've owned it setting at the dealership they can't figure out how to fix it or what's causing the problem a hundred thousand dollar piece of junk
Excellent video JB. Thank you.
With GM products there is no reason to get 2500 Vs a 3500 SRW if your goal to tow an RV. The ride quality is the same or negligible in difference, the handling is the same, etc. You get so many advantages with the slight increase in cost with almost no downside.
I love my 1ton
At this point i dont even know why they even make a 2500. The price difference is so minimal i feel like jumping from 1500 to 3500 should be all thats offered.
My problem w/the GM 1 tons is that dang 12.1k GVWR. That paired with 14k equipment trailers puts you in CDL territory, which is stupid. This is why I think the new "max trailering" package on the GMs with the 2500 is great. Get all the 3500 goodies but GVWR is 11,750 - staying under 12k for all those who have 14k trailers.
I didn't realize this until it was too latr
It all depends on your state for the cdl stuff. Federal rules are cut and dry. You don’t need them unless it’s for commercial (business) use. Some states are different though.
The federal cdl law is any vehicle with a GVWR of 10,001-up required a medical examiner certificate (dot medical card). Any straight truck with a 26,0001-up GVWR requires a Class B license. Any combination vehicle with a GCWR of 26,001-up AND the trailer GVWR of 10,000-up requires a Class A license. And any time you have air brakes in the mix you will have to have a cdl.
Anyways, for private use it’s up to your state. Commercial use it doesn’t matter what your state says, if you meet those requirements you have to have one.
@@matthewanderson9912 Here in MN I have an exemption to being commercial. I am in Ag, farm. Otherwise yeah, you better be DOT approved and have a number.
@@jimingvaldson7076 Kentucky is similar. There is farm use exemptions plus private use. I have a 10,650 GVWR truck and don’t have to have a medical card to drive it or a cdl of any kind to use it to pull any kind of trailer.
@@matthewanderson9912 Most of us who tow campers tow in several states, too. I’ve heard hotshotters and camper transporters say don’t get a 1 ton due to the hard numbers limiting the ¾ , ie unless you want a cdl don’t have a vehicle rated over 26,000. Now, the “max towing” packages and whatnot are making a new calculus for that.
do they count fuel as payload? or is it already accounted for?
Yes. The number assumes a full tank of gas.
For the minute cost difference why wouldn’t you just always upgrade to the 1T? There may be a really good reason that I.m just ignorant about.
How can I get that spreadsheet?
Part of me wants to go with a 2500 part of me wants to go with a 3500 when I go to buy a truck or a heavy duty truck at some point I'm torn between the 2 For me I'd probably go long bed just for preference if. I went 3500 I would. Go srw not. Dually
If you are considering a 2500, I would go 3500. I made this mistake in 2010 and am just getting around to fixing it. The only downside is that the 3500 will be a bit rougher ride when unloaded.
@@rich7447 ok thanks
nice thank you
Save the heart ache and get the 3500 or dually
If you want a diesel go 350/3500.
Great Video
A yet again great Video and great information 👍
Jerry seiner has a Lotta heavy duty trucks in stock, but every single one of them are diesels!
Red looks good
You mentioned getting the 10k gvwr option at the dealer for tax purposes. Can you elaborate on that? Chevys have higher than 10k gvwr all the time even for their 2500 so what would a regular person that just toss their travel trailer lose by having a gvwr above 10k?
GM offers a no cost option to derate to 10,000 GVWR for the 2500 series trucks. When you’re ordering a truck you have to select the 10,000 GVWR if you want it. That apples for the gas and diesel trucks.
I’m getting ready to order a 24 Chevrolet this week. How does a person know exactly what the numbers will be before it is built? 2500 vs 3500 srw gasser. I’ve seen some on the lot that the 2500 is almost as much as 3500 payload. I have a fifthwheel with 2200 pin weight.
In my opinion, if you’re towing heavy enough to need a 1 ton you should be looking at a dually
If your gonna tow remotely heavy get 3500...way better to have more truck than not or barely enough.....price difference is neglible
Where did KYD get the 426 figure from for the average American family ? Every 5th wheel owning, ‘healthy American eating’ family I’ve seen in an rv park would be closer to 1426 lbs 😂
My openion is just go for 3500
Why did you ax the salesman? Sounds dangerous
If your buying new. You can debate if you don't have a CDL
Pullrite hitch weighs less than 100#.
Better off buying the 1 ton right off the back
Just go one ton. Not that much more $$$$$.
I don't understand why they even make a 2500, its almost the same thing.
And ask your self how much are you going to be driving with no trailer? Driving a 1-Ton with no weight on the rear is not a smooth ride. the 3/4 will have a better ride
If they can't answer that question you need to find a different dealer.
Its the same truck , but the 2500 is way smoother ..
Lol😂 "American standard healthy eating."
3500 is a down grade for 90% of people towing 14,500 lbs or less.
Moving from a 2500 to a 3500 doesnt make your gm any less of a piece of over priced junk
Just go to a salvage yard and get suspension parts