Yes, running a bar of soap along the blade first helps to cut faster because the blade wont stick. You could also make a small cut at the bottom first to keep the bark from stripping..
Have you tried making a cut on the bottom with a long pole saw? It's difficult enough getting it up there to begin with. I usually make two cuts when there's a situation like this. One cut further out to accommodate the peel, then another final cut.
Really happy with this tree trimmer.th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHMc_g3gGUpXsBlcRniL7qDnlxwo192gi I’m a DIY home owner with a good many trees for a suburban home. I’ve trimmed two trees so far. The pictures are from the biggest tree that I’ve trimmed. The poll length is about all I could manage with the weight of the saw on the end. I use this while on a ladder, and while standing on my roof to trim the tree in the picture. I haven’t had any problems with the saw getting stuck (pinched). It’s been pretty easy to get out when it starts to get pinched, and I just saw from the bottom or cut a V. The battery life is good. I only have one battery, and it lasts long enough to cut a yard full of limbs that I then cut down with my electric chain saw while recharging the battery. I haven’t had any problems with the pole extensions, and they seem sufficiently sturdy. No problem yet with the chain coming off. I have this problem all the time with my plug in chain saw. Plus, how cool is a chain saw on a pole!
The blades in the modern saws are too thin and do not seem to have enough set to cut the slot wide enough to avoid jamming. I found more usefulness in an older thicker blade, which had been aggressively set by my oldie when he was still alive, the rust cleaned off and the teeth re-sharpened. I found it helpful to remount the saw blade at a shallower angle but not so shallow that the bottom of the cut closes on the blade when the bough begins to sag. This seems to help with the snatching and bending of the pole. I also frequently oil the blade when using it high like that.
Good comments. On a living branch the gap closes and the blade's body tends to get stuck. I often use oil or a bar of soap on blades that cut tree limbs. 75 inches of rain here already for 2021, normally 60 to 65 per year. On this pole saw I have not attempted to increase the set of the tooth yet. I might try it sometime since I have two of them. One battery operated circular saws they often use a thin blade to cut the required power down. I once owned a late 1980's Hitachi battery operated circular saw. It had a super thin blade that only Hitachi made, 5/8 inch hub but I think 6 1/4 ? inch in diameter blade . A 6.5 inch was too big. A wide set on a blade is required for hand sawing pressure treated lumber too. I have a homemade 8 ft pole saw from a 2x2 treated piece and part of a Sears old hand pruning blade that once folded into a wooden handle. It has a thicker blade.
It needs an upper aluminium flatbar rail to slide on the branch and a draw rope to pull the blade up to size, sort of like a sliding pincer. Very awkward and uncomfortable to use. A strong spring off an automotive drive belt tensioner might work I gave up on it but somebody with more perseverance might sort something out and patent it.
I was using a similar maxed out pole pruner and found after pulling, let the vibrations settle down before you push it up - otherwise it is difficult to start a cut because it's jumping all over the place.
LOL, it would be too heavy to wield. I have a buddy that has one with 2 or 3 extensions and his shoulders just can't take it. But the trick is to throw a line up in the tree and hoist the pruner up there. FYI, many decades ago I bot a Woodzig with is a 3" chainsaw (!) where the head and trigger ends fit right on a 24' 3-pc telescoping painter's pole. It worked well since the head unit was only a fraction of the weight of a "full grown" power pole saw head.
If you let the bark tear like that and swing it back And fourth what you actully do is cut a slit behind the part you cut and it won't tear no hate intended
I don't think he can make an underside cut that high up,the other thing to do is make two cuts,first cut further out,16 inches maybe, and then make the last cut where he's cutting now,it's double work, but keeps the bark from peeling.
I bought it from this ebay seller at least 6 years ago. www.ebay.com/itm/27-FOOT-POLE-SAW-Tree-Trimmer-Saw-Tree-Pruner-Tree-Saw-/130440811738. It was either buy a gizmo like this, or rent a bucket truck or pay a local tree guy more than the pole cost to cut a limb or two.
So funny how many tree Karen's there are in the comments of these videos. "Ur not doin it right u have to handle that 30' pole like it's a 6" scalpel c'mon it's so easy"
Yes I use bar soap before starting to make every cut or two. But with these live oak trees the sap flows all year round. These Live Oak trees have green leaves all year round. The trees are almost evergreen here on the Gulf Coast. The leaves do get replaced by there are already new ones too. Thus as far as sap flow there is no totally dormant period with these trees. The cuts by the saw do tend to swell up. During our mild winters the task is somewhat less binding of the blade . Other hardwoods will drop all their leaves in the cool Fall. Soap helps with binding of the saw.
Silky hayauchi fűrészlapot vettem és saját bambusz rúdra szeteltem fel. 8,5 méter a rúd, 10 méterre felérek vele. Merevebb, mint ez a te rúd nyeled, nem "táncol" annyira a vágás közben. ☝️😉
Yeah, good luck with that under cut. Impossible with that long of a pole not to mention the weight even at slight angle. Common sense will take over. Just did some branch pruning myself. Lifting vertical and controlling that pole is a pita. Better have strong muscle.
No yappin' at ya but the blades are made to lay on branch with on very little pressure. It can be done without bouncing and have nice smooth motion prevent the limb from tearing by making a 1/2 cut underneath. Looks like a pole guy sell of eBay. I've bought 6-7 over the years from him. Yep, it takes some practice.
Have you done this with a 27 ft pole saw yet? Here I own 4 different length poles. A short 12 foot pole is child play compared to this 27 ft long noodle. The Live Oak I was cutting is tough stuff, there is actually sand that gets in the branches. When one uses a chain saw there are sparks from sand which is really bizarre. The starting cut for cutting Live Oak with a 27 ft pole is like an order of magnitude or two harder to start than say cutting soft pine with a 12 ft pole. Often one really just tries to find a sweet spot for the starting point with the 27 ft pole for the first cut. The pole at 27 ft has a mind of its own and there is some adjustment of how one uses it compared to the normal shorter poles I mostly use. Since it is so long and springy the is also the cutting rate at which one cuts so as not so excite a resonance so the pole jumps out of the cut too.
I would hope by now, 2023, he learned making a small under cut 1st will stop the tearout under the limb.. helping with healing and keeping insects out....
+Ron Ididit Thanks for the comment. The blade is actually about in line to the "pole" most of the time. I think the curved last section makes it appear to be more to the "Left" thus I see what you are mentioning. The last section is bending down due to the weight of the pole and with the camera to the right this makes it appear one is not cutting straight. On first start is challenging to get a cut when the blade is 27 feet away. One can have a few false starts before one has a cut one wants to finish. The bulk of the binding is the Live Oak is very green and wet around here since it rains 70 inches at year. The cutting blade does have a decent amount of "Kerf" to make a decent slot but the joint still expands due to the water. If one is not quick the cut will close around the blade if one takes a break. When one is cutting at say 14 to 20 feet is radically easier to cut limbs off. At the full 27 feet the experience is really odder to do. ie the affairs is like a wet noodle; and all cutting is on the pull stroke. When one has the cut branch on the ground and is using a chain saw one often gets sparks due to sand in the wood and bark; weird since the branch was 35 feet up there. ie Hurricanes leave sand even in high tree limbs.
Ohhh myyy how do you strong men do as such hard hard work ??? Imagine if you had to cut wood for the stove to keep your kids warm and cook food for the entire winter at - 40 below zero ! !
Steve you realize that pole was about 1" by 30' long? I don't care how macho u think u are the sht ain't easy. Just the mechanics of it. Seems anyone w a brain could figure as much.
The pole is really an adapted painting pole with an extra extension. A the full length the rig is a bit of a wet noodle to use. How you use the pole is way different than a standard short pole. I have 3 of the normal 8 to 12 foot poles, these are way easier to use.
Yes, running a bar of soap along the blade first helps to cut faster because the blade wont stick. You could also make a small cut at the bottom first to keep the bark from stripping..
Thank you.
I found Garage Door Teflon Dry Spray Lube worked well. But soap sure is cheaper (!)
Have you tried making a cut on the bottom with a long pole saw? It's difficult enough getting it up there to begin with. I usually make two cuts when there's a situation like this. One cut further out to accommodate the peel, then another final cut.
@@TheyForcedMyHandLE Spot on! Obvious this guy has never used such a long pole saw!
@@TheyForcedMyHandLEthats absolutely facts
You are so good at cutting down trees while filming.
Damn that is high up there. Great blade too.👍✌
Good Job! You have a lot of patience & endurance! :)
Creepy black mask
Thank you so much for the video. Now I can understand how to use the hook to make the branch fall .
Good video.
Really, 27 feet is out there.
That blade must be damn sharp to cut it that fast with such low force.
The entire cut actually took 90 minutes
Really happy with this tree trimmer.th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHMc_g3gGUpXsBlcRniL7qDnlxwo192gi I’m a DIY home owner with a good many trees for a suburban home. I’ve trimmed two trees so far. The pictures are from the biggest tree that I’ve trimmed. The poll length is about all I could manage with the weight of the saw on the end. I use this while on a ladder, and while standing on my roof to trim the tree in the picture. I haven’t had any problems with the saw getting stuck (pinched). It’s been pretty easy to get out when it starts to get pinched, and I just saw from the bottom or cut a V. The battery life is good. I only have one battery, and it lasts long enough to cut a yard full of limbs that I then cut down with my electric chain saw while recharging the battery. I haven’t had any problems with the pole extensions, and they seem sufficiently sturdy. No problem yet with the chain coming off. I have this problem all the time with my plug in chain saw. Plus, how cool is a chain saw on a pole!
The blades in the modern saws are too thin and do not seem to have enough set to cut the slot wide enough to avoid jamming. I found more usefulness in an older thicker blade, which had been aggressively set by my oldie when he was still alive, the rust cleaned off and the teeth re-sharpened. I found it helpful to remount the saw blade at a shallower angle but not so shallow that the bottom of the cut closes on the blade when the bough begins to sag. This seems to help with the snatching and bending of the pole. I also frequently oil the blade when using it high like that.
Good comments. On a living branch the gap closes and the blade's body tends to get stuck. I often use oil or a bar of soap on blades that cut tree limbs. 75 inches of rain here already for 2021, normally 60 to 65 per year. On this pole saw I have not attempted to increase the set of the tooth yet. I might try it sometime since I have two of them. One battery operated circular saws they often use a thin blade to cut the required power down. I once owned a late 1980's Hitachi battery operated circular saw. It had a super thin blade that only Hitachi made, 5/8 inch hub but I think 6 1/4 ? inch in diameter blade . A 6.5 inch was too big. A wide set on a blade is required for hand sawing pressure treated lumber too. I have a homemade 8 ft pole saw from a 2x2 treated piece and part of a Sears old hand pruning blade that once folded into a wooden handle. It has a thicker blade.
Great, you have got great negotiating and reciprocating skill, most get stuck.
Thanks for video . That timber I thought would never let go .
I'm getting one, not for actually cutting, but for setting my throw line for climbing
glad you got it down. "losing" the saw is a worry. Thankfully I'll only be cutting through soft palm tree seed branches.
Indeed a bit tricky but once you get it up there, game over branches!! I have notch 18', 6' x 3 poles but it can be extended for tedious job. ;)
have you tried it at 24 feet? I was thinking of getting the notch but want to get one that works well at 24 feet also.
@@sojourner99 I haven't. But if you do it correctly like this guy did in this video then your pole saw will do just fine. I'd prefer US made.
I get the undercut, but how do you accomplish that at that height and with that saw.???
It needs an upper aluminium flatbar rail to slide on the branch and a draw rope to pull the blade up to size, sort of like a sliding pincer. Very awkward and uncomfortable to use. A strong spring off an automotive drive belt tensioner might work I gave up on it but somebody with more perseverance might sort something out and patent it.
Then climb the tree
You don't. Just make two cuts. One outboard to take the weight off, then the final cut.
I was using a similar maxed out pole pruner and found after pulling, let the vibrations settle down before you push it up - otherwise it is difficult to start a cut because it's jumping all over the place.
Kitna price hai sir? Thanks
Product info where did u get it?
Whats better soap or oil to lubricate the blade?
Didn't compare but I was using Teflon Spray Dry lube reapplied for each 3" cut at full extension.
If only STIHL made a gas powered pole saw this long.
LOL, it would be too heavy to wield. I have a buddy that has one with 2 or 3 extensions and his shoulders just can't take it. But the trick is to throw a line up in the tree and hoist the pruner up there. FYI, many decades ago I bot a Woodzig with is a 3" chainsaw (!) where the head and trigger ends fit right on a 24' 3-pc telescoping painter's pole. It worked well since the head unit was only a fraction of the weight of a "full grown" power pole saw head.
Or anyone else made a 27' battery powered pole saw!
Great video. This is what I need to do. I don't give a damn about the bark. I'm tired of the bird poop on my car EVERY FRIGGIN DAY 🤬
What brand is this
If you let the bark tear like that and swing it back And fourth what you actully do is cut a slit behind the part you cut and it won't tear no hate intended
What is scary is that part that was cut in this video is now grown back about 5 feet, the tear long gone.
Tommy Munoz moo
I don't think he can make an underside cut that high up,the other thing to do is make two cuts,first cut further out,16 inches maybe, and then make the last cut where he's cutting now,it's double work, but keeps the bark from peeling.
STIHL hta 65 hta 85 wireless pole pruner how much & condition/s?
Is this pole made of fiber?
WHERE DID YOU GET THIS POLE?????????
Amazon
@@amck72 what will be the cost for this
c
Can you tel me please where did you buy it ? thanks
I bought it from this ebay seller at least 6 years ago. www.ebay.com/itm/27-FOOT-POLE-SAW-Tree-Trimmer-Saw-Tree-Pruner-Tree-Saw-/130440811738. It was either buy a gizmo like this, or rent a bucket truck or pay a local tree guy more than the pole cost to cut a limb or two.
THANKS A LOT FOR MAKING TIME TO ANSWER MAY GOD BLESS YOU : )
3beltwesty was
Price
do they come in shorter lengths for example about 8 feet?
Yes
So funny how many tree Karen's there are in the comments of these videos. "Ur not doin it right u have to handle that 30' pole like it's a 6" scalpel c'mon it's so easy"
Oak tree?
Ahhhhhhh! You tore the bark! Make your first cut two feet from the final cut, then you'll leave no torn bark on the tree.
They should make a double sided blade ......angled on top so you can undercut branch.
It is impossible to undercut... saw will get jammed
Why did you put soap on the blade?
Yes I use bar soap before starting to make every cut or two. But with these live oak trees the sap flows all year round. These Live Oak trees have green leaves all year round. The trees are almost evergreen here on the Gulf Coast. The leaves do get replaced by there are already new ones too. Thus as far as sap flow there is no totally dormant period with these trees. The cuts by the saw do tend to swell up. During our mild winters the task is somewhat less binding of the blade . Other hardwoods will drop all their leaves in the cool Fall. Soap helps with binding of the saw.
Awesome, thanks so much for the quick response - that makes total sense. I enjoyed your video, thanks!
I'm curious about the soap too. Can I rub soap on all saws? What about an axe? thanks
I use canola oil on mine........
thanks for video !🔨🔩🔧☺
Silky hayauchi fűrészlapot vettem és saját bambusz rúdra szeteltem fel. 8,5 méter a rúd, 10 méterre felérek vele. Merevebb, mint ez a te rúd nyeled, nem "táncol" annyira a vágás közben. ☝️😉
Looks like you're getting stuck with the blade in there I'd feel better with a extension ladder up there and a chainsaw been there done that
skip to 2:30
Best video
No under cut ?
Yeah, good luck with that under cut. Impossible with that long of a pole not to mention the weight even at slight angle. Common sense will take over. Just did some branch pruning myself. Lifting vertical and controlling that pole is a pita. Better have strong muscle.
Yea sht why didn't he carve a fkn wooden statue while he was up there
Very good job
doesn't look like any oak tree i ever saw.
It is a live oak. Quercus fusiformis to be exact. Lots of them in Texas.
30 minutes one cutting
No yappin' at ya but the blades are made to lay on branch with on very little pressure. It can be done without bouncing and have nice smooth motion prevent the limb from tearing by making a 1/2 cut underneath. Looks like a pole guy sell of eBay. I've bought 6-7 over the years from him. Yep, it takes some practice.
Have you done this with a 27 ft pole saw yet? Here I own 4 different length poles. A short 12 foot pole is child play compared to this 27 ft long noodle. The Live Oak I was cutting is tough stuff, there is actually sand that gets in the branches. When one uses a chain saw there are sparks from sand which is really bizarre. The starting cut for cutting Live Oak with a 27 ft pole is like an order of magnitude or two harder to start than say cutting soft pine with a 12 ft pole. Often one really just tries to find a sweet spot for the starting point with the 27 ft pole for the first cut. The pole at 27 ft has a mind of its own and there is some adjustment of how one uses it compared to the normal shorter poles I mostly use. Since it is so long and springy the is also the cutting rate at which one cuts so as not so excite a resonance so the pole jumps out of the cut too.
Telephone number for purchase pole saw for pruning
2:40
You're welcome!
I would hope by now, 2023, he learned making a small under cut 1st will stop the tearout under the limb.. helping with healing and keeping insects out....
Let me know when I can use your free bucket truck and to do that. You cannot cut the limb at the bottom since the pole is almost vertical.
@@3beltwesty good answer!
Respectfully you're cutting isn't a straight cut and binds the blade
+Ron Ididit Thanks for the comment. The blade is actually about in line to the "pole" most of the time. I think the curved last section makes it appear to be more to the "Left" thus I see what you are mentioning. The last section is bending down due to the weight of the pole and with the camera to the right this makes it appear one is not cutting straight. On first start is challenging to get a cut when the blade is 27 feet away. One can have a few false starts before one has a cut one wants to finish.
The bulk of the binding is the Live Oak is very green and wet around here since it rains 70 inches at year. The cutting blade does have a decent amount of "Kerf" to make a decent slot but the joint still expands due to the water. If one is not quick the cut will close around the blade if one takes a break. When one is cutting at say 14 to 20 feet is radically easier to cut limbs off. At the full 27 feet the experience is really odder to do. ie the affairs is like a wet noodle; and all cutting is on the pull stroke.
When one has the cut branch on the ground and is using a chain saw one often gets sparks due to sand in the wood and bark; weird since the branch was 35 feet up there. ie Hurricanes leave sand even in high tree limbs.
Ohhh myyy how do you strong men do as such hard hard work ??? Imagine if you had to cut wood for the stove to keep your kids warm and cook food for the entire winter at - 40 below zero ! !
He's pruning a tree not felling it for wood
Steve you realize that pole was about 1" by 30' long? I don't care how macho u think u are the sht ain't easy. Just the mechanics of it. Seems anyone w a brain could figure as much.
Arborist would kick your azz lol
Looks like a very flimsy, lousy pole
The pole is really an adapted painting pole with an extra extension. A the full length the rig is a bit of a wet noodle to use. How you use the pole is way different than a standard short pole. I have 3 of the normal 8 to 12 foot poles, these are way easier to use.
hell naw! nice!
Chinese. N bano indian bano hand se khyo
Sorry, this isn't pruning, this is destroying the tree.
What's it called when the wind rips a huge branch off the tree and it still stands for decades? Or is it only destroyed when u cut 4" limbs w a saw
If ya cant do a undercut ya dont do the cut.
What the hell are you doing
Way too long....