Lightroom’s default color profile upon import is now Adobe Color. They replaced Adobe Standard years ago because of the exact issue your listing here. I take it you’re using an old version of LR and not the newest? Adobe Color is a much better general catch-all profile for most camera brands
There is another camera profile that has been a GAME CHANGER and beyond for my R6 files - and it is Camera Faithful- the one that is camera matching ( not adobe faithful) it brings back a flush to the skin tones and magically transforms the colors in the image!! Looks sooo much like my old 5d mark iiiand iv files!
@@Aiproductions713 I will agree with that- but it’s such a quick fix to reduce the magenta or slide red HSL slider to a little more to the orange side in those few instances that it still is a game changer for me:)
Thanks so much for using my photo as the example for this demonstration! Very helpful info! For me, my preferences were set as adobe default, but my adobe default is "Adobe Color" which actually has more pop than "Adobe Standard".
I have the opposite problem with my R6 raw files. Mine tend to be brighter and more green/yellow than I want to be. I have to slightly underexpose them to get them where I want them and they still seem to have harsh light and green/yellow undertones. Very difficult to edit. I have found a few others with this issue, but most say that theirs are dull and lifeless…I would take dull and lifeless to start any day! I’m going to play around with the profiles in Lightroom and see if that helps. I have already played with the in camera profiles and it helped some but didn’t solve the issue.
The truth is that this is really helpful thank you. You said at some point that you prefer Adobe Standard because you can do more with it. The truth is that some people just prefer to do more in camera and less in lightroom so when they take a photo and see it in a certain way on camera and then see it diferently it is a bit annoying. However, once again, thank you so much for sharing that with us. PS: Lightroom's default color profile is Adobe Color not adobe standard
I’ve been a victim of thinking my r6 raw files suck. I use camera standard in Lightroom and have played around with adobe color but I’m still not overly satisfied. Very interesting point you made about them being flat because of the higher dynamic range. Hasn’t considered that. Perhaps I’ll give adobe standard or faithful a go for future edits. Thanks for the video.
Shoot JPEG and you won't have any issues. RAW is for those who can't get their settings correct or those who push images beyond normal. RAW is not an image file - so of course it won't look 'good' per se.
Another contributor for dull-looking images might be that the R6 tends to slightly underexpose in auto exposure, compared to R6II and R5. When I shoot in AV, I normally add around +0.8 stops in post (vs +0.4 stops on R5), using C1 ProStandard camera profiles. In regards to profiles, less contrasty is always a better starting point - fully agree.
Same here. I set +2/3 stop with the R6. Then I do a whole bunch of stuff till the picture looks great to my eye - lots and lots of sliders, even playing around with subtle changes in Blue Saturation in Calibration. Then lots of Copy/Paste settings to save time.
@@chrisschindler7634 I prefer to run the bigger part of the exposure boost in post, though, as shadow recovery with the R6 works excellent, while highlight recovery is limited. The R6 auto exposure does a good job in not clipping highlights, after all.
help please, i just recently got my R6 and when i transfer the raw files to my pc all of the photos are just showing the lightroom logo no previews of the actual photos. i just see the photos when i imported them in lightroom.
Adobe Standard removes colours that only appear when you use the Canon profile. It's fine if you want to do a 'heavy' stylised edit like you did here, but if you want one that looks a lot cleaner (like a well-scanned medium format film shot, for example), the Adobe profile just don't have enough colour information in them. This is why I've moved to the Fujifilm GFX cameras. Canon used to 'bake' the colour info into the raw file (5D mk3 and below). The 5D4 was a bit of a weird halfway house. But since the R, they've relied on the colour profile to do the heavy lifting. I don't know why. Maybe to do with making a sensor designed for LOG video. Not sure. But if you want the old Canon look, you have to go to Leica now. The problem with relying on profiles is that commercial presets don't work well on the files. They look washed out and skin tones look too yellow. I've got a couple of R5s and an R8 for video work, but they're just not photography cameras anymore for me.
Guys when it comes raw the flatter the better! what you dont want is colour casts like what Sony use to do with a heavy green shift, fuji use to have a magenta shift. Katelyn is right there is no easy fix you have to practice and explore light room. that and a really good colour accurate monitor so you more easily see the colour presented to you, apple laptops look great to the eye but there far from accurate.
Not sure if this question is answered. But If the KJ edit is imported into LR, it gives the Profile: 02-golden warm with cooler greens profile. Do I need to keep it like that or change it to Adobe Standard?
I've switched my "Raw Defaults" in Lightroom to Camera Settings (rather than Adobe), as suggested in this video. However, whenever I apply the KJ Preset Process, it switches the image back to Adobe Standard. Are the KJ Presets pre-programed to only work with Adobe settings? Or is this something I can (and should) adjust?
you can adjust it, just save a copy of the preset with the Profile you like the most. weather be camera standard, faithful or what ever But beware some presets like that provided by arch type use profiles to do the heavy lifting to get there look, alot like Fujifilm profiles. with press like that I alot of science has gone into them and thats what make them so valuable. be weary of prests that charge a small fortune without these profiles they have just adjusted a load of sliders and played with the curve tool alot!...
My files are all dull so I will try this but, also everyone of my files are grainy and have to be denoised and it’s frustrating. I’ve never had this problem with any of my other cameras. I’ve tried so many things and don’t know what to do.
Omg sooo glad someone else is talking about this. All my files are grainy straight out of my r6II. I upgraded from a canon 80d and truth be told, I think even my 80d takes better photos than my R6II.
Because there are nearly infinite variations of light, given sun position, shadow, color cast, and indoor lighting, I’m not sure if I can have enough presets. I’ve created dozens. The ones I thought were game changers didn’t perform across different events (despite being okay at one). How do you keep a limited amt. of “power presets,” if, at all?
Is there a way to have r6 focuspoint tracking option when hold down a backbutton focus for axample? I use r6 for 3 years and love it next to my mk3 but the r6 focuspoint is all set up but not tracing when using the focus backbutton is use...😢
You need to be in servo mode for continuous tracking and make sure the button (usually AF-ON) is actually mapped to start focusing. I use back button focus as well and it works fine. I have a few videos on my setup that may help.
@@fentonphoto_thanks for sharing I have the back button focus set up already but the focus point does not lock on the moving target but focus only everything in the middel, the selected focuspoint
I'm a high volume SOC jpg shooter. I can say that beginning with my 1D Mark II and with my R5 and R3 bodies that images were flatter with the default settings. It has been easy to adjust the picture style to make great images but it wasn't like the 5D series and older pro 1D bodies.
I agree with that. The photos from the older 1D/5D/7D/70D cameras are a full of life. Someting changed with the new, technologically superior modells, and I don't like it.
@@szauszabolcs5148 thanks for your comment. I have R6 Mark II for about a year and all the time I am dissapointed how bad and flat raw files looks in my camera and LR too. I used to work with 5DM3 and there is huge difference. The amount of work in PS I have to do to get picture I want is so much bigger to compare to 5D. I can see it especially now, in autumn, when taking photos of the trees. With 5DM3 it was almost perfect sooc, with R6M2 is so ugly....
Yes I agree with you, I like the Adobe Standard one better. Trying to find correct skin tones in Lightroom with Canon r6 mark ii has been a headache to say the least. I'm also having an issue with blown out highlights or dark shadows, not much in between 😂 I've never had to do so much post processing before (sorry Canon).
L O V E! You are always so thorough! Many do not know how to use LR. Add a preset on top of that, and they expect presets to do the heavy lifting for them. Do I know LR like I need to? Nope. But I chip at it more and more every session because I am desperate to know how to do it myself, what a preset can do.
I own a r6 mkii and can not stand the lack of contrast and color in the RAW files it’s extremely frustrating. I’ve tried this trick and I’m still frustrated with the extra work in post. I just purchased a Nikon today due to this! 😅 Not sure if this was the right decision or not but here we are!
I have an r6 mark 2, never found an issue with files, quite the opposite. A raw file is meant to be flat to give you more latitude with editing. Also, lens choice can have a huge impact on color and impact. Primes lenses usually render richer colors in comparison to zoom lenses for instance.
It's not just with the Canon R6. I recent bought a Nikon z8. The noise was horrible even around ISO 6400. That camera can handle noise better than what I was seeing. I was wondering if it was my camera or one of my settings. I posted about it in my Nikon group. A woman in the group told me about this and said that Adobe had an issue with the files from the z8 and z9 and made them look like a hot mess. Once I made this change to camera settings, my files look great. Even high ISO files look great. I shoot a lot of landscape so I have my picture control in camera set to flat. That's because I want the most accurate histogram. If I'm in a high dynamic range scene I need to see a true histogram to see if I need to bracket my exposures. If I was to shoot with a landscape profile my histogram would be bunched up because it boosts the contrast and saturation. When I get into Lightroom I can leave it flat or use the camera landscape profile if I like but I usually use flat to start with. I want to be in control of the contrast. I do a lot of dodging and burning using luminosity masks in photoshop. I also do a little bit of street photography. I had been keeping my camera set on flat on my z6 II but a few weeks ago I decided to try one of the new black and white profiles we got in an update. I used to shoot everything in flat which means it was in color. But looking through your evf in black and white let's you see things differently. Now when I import the photos are still in black and white because I'm using the camera settings in Lightroom. I can tweak them from there. Even though I'm not a Canon shooter, great video. People need videos like this.
I see what you're saying, but if I change my settings, now, I will have to start all over probably with Imagen AI . mmmmmmmm don't always use imagine so I will have to rethink this. Any suggestions? 🤔
right. but if you use presets most are using a different profile than your camera. typically adobe standard or a profile they designed. Great Video none the less
Well I am glad I am starting from ground zero. I am thankful to know how to change it to camera settings if I want to try it. I have a Canon 5D Mark 1V
I felt the same way until I got the Color Fidelity color profiles for my R6. Game changer. I apply the R6 standard profile and edit from there. Definitely brings the colors and magenta back like I wanted for my own starting point.
So Adobe Standard is more plain, is that right? But most students have their profile set to Camera Standard? That is confusing to me because isn't the default Adobe Standard? If students don't know what they're doing, then how is their setting on Camera Standard? I've taken a LRC class but still didn't realize about these options. But anyway, I agree, I want the most basic RAW file I can get to take the photo where I want it.
@@KatelynJames I got confused because when you showed the students' images, as they were on Camera Standard. Then you showed how to set the default to Camera Standard, which does imply that they were on Adobe Standard. But still, the images they're seeing on the back of the camera are probably not the RAW file, as we see when shooting in monochrome mode then go to edit in LRC and we see color.
I know it sucks for high volume shooters such as wedding photographers but Canon DPP produces excellent results, just like the ones you see on the back of your R6. And if you use camera faithful, you have plenty of room for editing your files as much as you like. I have tried all camera matching profiles from Adobe. They do not match the camera. At all. The closest one is again camera faithful but even then I have to fight the app to get the same healthy and glowing skin tones I get from DPP. Adobe really dropped the ball with the R6 profiles making the camera look bad to many users. Another option would be capture One, but to be honest I still prefer the rendering I get from DPP. But as I said before, DPP sucks….
I am so excited about watching this. I have been coming back here to keep checking to see if there has been an update. YIPPIE!!!!!!!! getting my popcorn! lol
After posting this I went back in and checked Lightroom again... I couldn't believe they aren't all the same. I found out when I reset my image, the Camera Standard option appears.
Not the same thing, I actually vastly prefer Camera Faithful with my R6. There's the odd time when it adds too much red to my skin tones, but that's an easy fix.
I’ll jump in for her as she did not explain what are those profiles. When shooting raw, the program you use (Lr, C1, etc) will read the data and show it to you how it understands it. It will differ a bit from one to the other. Enters Adobe Prifiles (or C1 profiles for example) this is a key for the data to be displayed. If you pick Adobe Landscape fir example, you will se a difference in saturation, vibrance and a little contrast for the most part. Would you choose the Adobe Portrait instead, you would get a different end result, mostly in contrast and color (not saturation). Thing is, you won’t see the adjustments because it’s just a way for the program to understand what every raw values should be represented. Kind of a pre-preset before the adjustments. To better understand this you can look at the Camera profiles instead of the Adobe (same menu but click Browse at the bottom) and you will find “Camera Matching” instead of Adobe Raw. (Note that you won’t find this with other file types like JPEG, TIFF or even DNG). So the Camera Matching ones will be the same as if you would go in you camera and chose one from there. The kicker is that what you choose in this camera menu is what will be shown on you camera screen and viewfinder AND will also be “baked in” the JPEGS that’s the camera produces. So if you don’t care about knowing how it works and just want to know “how to do it” (trust me, there’s a world of difference here) just set your settings in Lr so that it always open Raw files in the same profile as your camera (she spoke about that). Then, every image that you import will closely resemble what your camera shows you. You can then edit from there but mind you, some adjustments are been made in the background so in the extremes it will affect highlight and shadow recovery, colors and noise. That’s the main reason why we choose a more neutral (or in my case the Faithfull) profile to start with. Again, in my case my camera is set to Faithfull so I see the same image on my monitor that in my camera. And finally to answer your question. No you should not need to change anything in your camera if you are going to apply a preset. It will have the profile information too so you may see it change one you apply it if the one you have is not the same she used. If she did not include the Treatment & Profile setting when she created the preset, it will remain the same as the one you have selected and may affect the final look but you’ll never know so don’t bother and play with them until you find your sweet spot. Hope it helps ✌🏻
@@NovaTheWhite (Let me start saying I have a dslr, not a mirrorless.) The camera shows us a jpeg on the screen, but that is not the RAW file. That camera screen jpeg is based on settings in the camera, (I just learned this from Simon D'entremont) and shouldn't affect the RAW file. I shoot only in RAW, (no additional jpeg file). An example is when I put the camera in monochrome mode, it shows as bw on the camera screen, but when I go to edit it in LRC it shows as color. But I'm sure Adobe applies settings, the one that seems to be the default is Adobe Color. How do I get the plain RAW file, would I change the default to Camera Standard, under the Edit, Preferences menu, and make sure that's what is selected under the Basic menu, too? There, there is Camera Matching, but in that category there are six options including Faithful and Neutral.
I want to see my RAW files as they are with no adjustments. I don't know how to do that, to get rid of those preset or profiles adjustments. One is called profiles, on the right, and then the other is called presets under the Edit, Preferences menu. Camera Standard vs Adobe Standard. I'll have to look into the differences, but it seems both apply some adjustments, which I don't want. (The back of the camera is showing a jpg file, not RAW, and that jpg can be adjusted, those adjustments don't affect the RAW file. That's something people need to know. )
Another thing that may be happening is under the "Detail" section, it looks like adjustments are being applied to the sharpening and the manual noise reduction, and that doesn't change if I adjust within the Adobe Profiles, as well as they don't change when I switch to Camera Standard.
@@L.Spencer There is no 'no adjustments' with raw files - raw files need to be interpreted in some way. Using Canon DPP you'll get the official Canon version of this interpretation, if that's what you are looking for. You can export from DPP to .dng and continue to edit in LR, if you want to start with the official Canon interpretation. Still, you'll have to decide on the Canon picture style to be used within DPP, though.
@@L.Spencer .CR3 files store the 14-bit luminance values for each of the Bayer pattern pixels (2x green, one red, one blue). They require demosaicing as a first step. This is were raw editors like LR or C1 do the heavy lifting behind the scenes - else, you could simply use Photoshop.
My R6 profile is Faithful with a wb hue of M2 B2, took me a long time to dial it in. I used the Canon DPP to dial it in and I have been much happier. I have LR set to import to camera settings.
@@shawnyshawna1313 Hi, yes my color profile is the above then I will adjust the WB to the needs of the shoot. For my headshots I shoot 5500, for outdoor portraits I will use AWB-W mostly. I came from Nikon to the R6, took me 18+ mths to find a color palette I really liked, the DPP app was a life saver being able to dial it in.
@@paintedmoments_ On Tab 3, W/B SHIFT is the 3rd one. You can tweak the WB even more. I spent a good few weeks trying combos and M2 B2 on Faithful looks best to my eyes. HIGHLY recommend. Take test shots as you have yours setup, use the Canon DPP software and tweak, you can try my way to see if that works for you.
Well well .... very good idea to throw all the Adobe crap onto your R6 raw file 🙄🙄🙄. Instead of starting out with a really flat file .... and have way more control of the tone mapping and colors . Why accepting Adobe's view of things ???? Folks learn image editing .... instead of using crappy presets !!!!!!!!!!
Color profiles aren't adobe crap and they're not presets. It's part of editing. If you were shooting jpeg, the in camera profile setting would be baked in already. When we shoot RAW, it doesn't save in automatically so you need to set your profile in post.
Lightroom’s default color profile upon import is now Adobe Color. They replaced Adobe Standard years ago because of the exact issue your listing here. I take it you’re using an old version of LR and not the newest? Adobe Color is a much better general catch-all profile for most camera brands
glad you said this
She's clueless. Best to shoot RAW + JPEG.
There is another camera profile that has been a GAME CHANGER and beyond for my R6 files - and it is Camera Faithful- the one that is camera matching ( not adobe faithful) it brings back a flush to the skin tones and magically transforms the colors in the image!! Looks sooo much like my old 5d mark iiiand iv files!
Is this in Camera Raw or in Lightroom?
@@jenniekmangum it’s Lightroom:)
agree
I use this profile the most but sometimes it adds too much red to skin tones
@@Aiproductions713 I will agree with that- but it’s such a quick fix to reduce the magenta or slide red HSL slider to a little more to the orange side in those few instances that it still is a game changer for me:)
Thanks so much for using my photo as the example for this demonstration! Very helpful info! For me, my preferences were set as adobe default, but my adobe default is "Adobe Color" which actually has more pop than "Adobe Standard".
Are you still shooting on just r6s for weddings x
I have the opposite problem with my R6 raw files. Mine tend to be brighter and more green/yellow than I want to be. I have to slightly underexpose them to get them where I want them and they still seem to have harsh light and green/yellow undertones. Very difficult to edit. I have found a few others with this issue, but most say that theirs are dull and lifeless…I would take dull and lifeless to start any day! I’m going to play around with the profiles in Lightroom and see if that helps. I have already played with the in camera profiles and it helped some but didn’t solve the issue.
I have the same problem as you! STRUGGLING!
The truth is that this is really helpful thank you. You said at some point that you prefer Adobe Standard because you can do more with it. The truth is that some people just prefer to do more in camera and less in lightroom so when they take a photo and see it in a certain way on camera and then see it diferently it is a bit annoying. However, once again, thank you so much for sharing that with us.
PS: Lightroom's default color profile is Adobe Color not adobe standard
I’ve been a victim of thinking my r6 raw files suck. I use camera standard in Lightroom and have played around with adobe color but I’m still not overly satisfied. Very interesting point you made about them being flat because of the higher dynamic range. Hasn’t considered that. Perhaps I’ll give adobe standard or faithful a go for future edits. Thanks for the video.
Shoot JPEG and you won't have any issues. RAW is for those who can't get their settings correct or those who push images beyond normal. RAW is not an image file - so of course it won't look 'good' per se.
Another contributor for dull-looking images might be that the R6 tends to slightly underexpose in auto exposure, compared to R6II and R5. When I shoot in AV, I normally add around +0.8 stops in post (vs +0.4 stops on R5), using C1 ProStandard camera profiles. In regards to profiles, less contrasty is always a better starting point - fully agree.
Totally agree on R6. I’m almost always running exp comp +1 when shooting.
Same here. I set +2/3 stop with the R6. Then I do a whole bunch of stuff till the picture looks great to my eye - lots and lots of sliders, even playing around with subtle changes in Blue Saturation in Calibration. Then lots of Copy/Paste settings to save time.
@@chrisschindler7634 I prefer to run the bigger part of the exposure boost in post, though, as shadow recovery with the R6 works excellent, while highlight recovery is limited. The R6 auto exposure does a good job in not clipping highlights, after all.
help please, i just recently got my R6 and when i transfer the raw files to my pc all of the photos are just showing the lightroom logo no previews of the actual photos. i just see the photos when i imported them in lightroom.
Adobe Standard removes colours that only appear when you use the Canon profile. It's fine if you want to do a 'heavy' stylised edit like you did here, but if you want one that looks a lot cleaner (like a well-scanned medium format film shot, for example), the Adobe profile just don't have enough colour information in them. This is why I've moved to the Fujifilm GFX cameras.
Canon used to 'bake' the colour info into the raw file (5D mk3 and below). The 5D4 was a bit of a weird halfway house. But since the R, they've relied on the colour profile to do the heavy lifting. I don't know why. Maybe to do with making a sensor designed for LOG video. Not sure. But if you want the old Canon look, you have to go to Leica now.
The problem with relying on profiles is that commercial presets don't work well on the files. They look washed out and skin tones look too yellow. I've got a couple of R5s and an R8 for video work, but they're just not photography cameras anymore for me.
This makes me feel good about having a old DSLR the Canon 6D wonderful Color science.
Keep it. Far superior colours to the R range imo.
Guys when it comes raw the flatter the better! what you dont want is colour casts like what Sony use to do with a heavy green shift, fuji use to have a magenta shift. Katelyn is right there is no easy fix you have to practice and explore light room. that and a really good colour accurate monitor so you more easily see the colour presented to you, apple laptops look great to the eye but there far from accurate.
Not sure if this question is answered. But If the KJ edit is imported into LR, it gives the Profile: 02-golden warm with cooler greens profile. Do I need to keep it like that or change it to Adobe Standard?
I've switched my "Raw Defaults" in Lightroom to Camera Settings (rather than Adobe), as suggested in this video. However, whenever I apply the KJ Preset Process, it switches the image back to Adobe Standard. Are the KJ Presets pre-programed to only work with Adobe settings? Or is this something I can (and should) adjust?
you can adjust it, just save a copy of the preset with the Profile you like the most. weather be camera standard, faithful or what ever But beware some presets like that provided by arch type use profiles to do the heavy lifting to get there look, alot like Fujifilm profiles. with press like that I alot of science has gone into them and thats what make them so valuable. be weary of prests that charge a small fortune without these profiles they have just adjusted a load of sliders and played with the curve tool alot!...
My files are all dull so I will try this but, also everyone of my files are grainy and have to be denoised and it’s frustrating. I’ve never had this problem with any of my other cameras. I’ve tried so many things and don’t know what to do.
Omg sooo glad someone else is talking about this. All my files are grainy straight out of my r6II. I upgraded from a canon 80d and truth be told, I think even my 80d takes better photos than my R6II.
Been having this issue also ...
@@Itsmejess33 I played around with my camera and turned on dual pixel and they seems to be helping , but files are now huge.
@@sheilashull372 Thanks for sharing! I may have to try that!
Because there are nearly infinite variations of light, given sun position, shadow, color cast, and indoor lighting, I’m not sure if I can have enough presets. I’ve created dozens. The ones I thought were game changers didn’t perform across different events (despite being okay at one). How do you keep a limited amt. of “power presets,” if, at all?
Excellent explanation! As always, many thanks!!!
Is there a way to have r6 focuspoint tracking option when hold down a backbutton focus for axample? I use r6 for 3 years and love it next to my mk3 but the r6 focuspoint is all set up but not tracing when using the focus backbutton is use...😢
You need to be in servo mode for continuous tracking and make sure the button (usually AF-ON) is actually mapped to start focusing. I use back button focus as well and it works fine. I have a few videos on my setup that may help.
@@fentonphoto_thanks for sharing I have the back button focus set up already but the focus point does not lock on the moving target but focus only everything in the middel, the selected focuspoint
I'm a high volume SOC jpg shooter. I can say that beginning with my 1D Mark II and with my R5 and R3 bodies that images were flatter with the default settings. It has been easy to adjust the picture style to make great images but it wasn't like the 5D series and older pro 1D bodies.
I agree with that. The photos from the older 1D/5D/7D/70D cameras are a full of life. Someting changed with the new, technologically superior modells, and I don't like it.
@@szauszabolcs5148 thanks for your comment. I have R6 Mark II for about a year and all the time I am dissapointed how bad and flat raw files looks in my camera and LR too. I used to work with 5DM3 and there is huge difference. The amount of work in PS I have to do to get picture I want is so much bigger to compare to 5D. I can see it especially now, in autumn, when taking photos of the trees. With 5DM3 it was almost perfect sooc, with R6M2 is so ugly....
Yes I agree with you, I like the Adobe Standard one better. Trying to find correct skin tones in Lightroom with Canon r6 mark ii has been a headache to say the least. I'm also having an issue with blown out highlights or dark shadows, not much in between 😂 I've never had to do so much post processing before (sorry Canon).
L O V E! You are always so thorough! Many do not know how to use LR. Add a preset on top of that, and they expect presets to do the heavy lifting for them. Do I know LR like I need to? Nope. But I chip at it more and more every session because I am desperate to know how to do it myself, what a preset can do.
What if you don’t have camera standard? I don’t have that option? I did go & change in my preferences & still don’t have it?
Omg THIS!! I thought I was going crazy of how flat these r6 images are!
Why did this just save my life?
That is an dutch ypr right? Not a m113?
I own a r6 mkii and can not stand the lack of contrast and color in the RAW files it’s extremely frustrating. I’ve tried this trick and I’m still frustrated with the extra work in post. I just purchased a Nikon today due to this! 😅 Not sure if this was the right decision or not but here we are!
I went from Nikon to canon last year and yes, Nikon files have more contrast and deeper colors. Have fun with the new system!
I have an r6 mark 2, never found an issue with files, quite the opposite. A raw file is meant to be flat to give you more latitude with editing. Also, lens choice can have a huge impact on color and impact. Primes lenses usually render richer colors in comparison to zoom lenses for instance.
Raw file is meant for processing.
What picture profile do you use on the R6? Auto, Standard, Portrait, Landscape, Fine Detail, or Neutral?
Camera Faithful for the win! Way closer in the direction of my actual editing style.
It's not just with the Canon R6. I recent bought a Nikon z8. The noise was horrible even around ISO 6400. That camera can handle noise better than what I was seeing. I was wondering if it was my camera or one of my settings. I posted about it in my Nikon group. A woman in the group told me about this and said that Adobe had an issue with the files from the z8 and z9 and made them look like a hot mess. Once I made this change to camera settings, my files look great. Even high ISO files look great. I shoot a lot of landscape so I have my picture control in camera set to flat. That's because I want the most accurate histogram. If I'm in a high dynamic range scene I need to see a true histogram to see if I need to bracket my exposures. If I was to shoot with a landscape profile my histogram would be bunched up because it boosts the contrast and saturation. When I get into Lightroom I can leave it flat or use the camera landscape profile if I like but I usually use flat to start with. I want to be in control of the contrast. I do a lot of dodging and burning using luminosity masks in photoshop. I also do a little bit of street photography. I had been keeping my camera set on flat on my z6 II but a few weeks ago I decided to try one of the new black and white profiles we got in an update. I used to shoot everything in flat which means it was in color. But looking through your evf in black and white let's you see things differently. Now when I import the photos are still in black and white because I'm using the camera settings in Lightroom. I can tweak them from there. Even though I'm not a Canon shooter, great video. People need videos like this.
I see what you're saying, but if I change my settings, now, I will have to start all over probably with Imagen AI . mmmmmmmm don't always use imagine so I will have to rethink this. Any suggestions? 🤔
right. but if you use presets most are using a different profile than your camera. typically adobe standard or a profile they designed. Great Video none the less
Well I am glad I am starting from ground zero. I am thankful to know how to change it to camera settings if I want to try it. I have a Canon 5D Mark 1V
Does this hold true for R6mii ???
I felt the same way until I got the Color Fidelity color profiles for my R6. Game changer. I apply the R6 standard profile and edit from there. Definitely brings the colors and magenta back like I wanted for my own starting point.
So Adobe Standard is more plain, is that right? But most students have their profile set to Camera Standard? That is confusing to me because isn't the default Adobe Standard? If students don't know what they're doing, then how is their setting on Camera Standard? I've taken a LRC class but still didn't realize about these options. But anyway, I agree, I want the most basic RAW file I can get to take the photo where I want it.
Most people who struggle with their images looking flat were looking at Adobe standard.
@@KatelynJames I got confused because when you showed the students' images, as they were on Camera Standard. Then you showed how to set the default to Camera Standard, which does imply that they were on Adobe Standard. But still, the images they're seeing on the back of the camera are probably not the RAW file, as we see when shooting in monochrome mode then go to edit in LRC and we see color.
I know it sucks for high volume shooters such as wedding photographers but Canon DPP produces excellent results, just like the ones you see on the back of your R6. And if you use camera faithful, you have plenty of room for editing your files as much as you like.
I have tried all camera matching profiles from Adobe. They do not match the camera. At all. The closest one is again camera faithful but even then I have to fight the app to get the same healthy and glowing skin tones I get from DPP.
Adobe really dropped the ball with the R6 profiles making the camera look bad to many users.
Another option would be capture One, but to be honest I still prefer the rendering I get from DPP.
But as I said before, DPP sucks….
I am so excited about watching this. I have been coming back here to keep checking to see if there has been an update. YIPPIE!!!!!!!! getting my popcorn! lol
surprise surprise, the solution - buy my course
Thank you for this! I don't have "Camera Standard" under profiles, but I do see "Camera Faithful". Are those the same thing?
I do not have a "Camera Standard" either???
After posting this I went back in and checked Lightroom again... I couldn't believe they aren't all the same. I found out when I reset my image, the Camera Standard option appears.
Not the same thing, I actually vastly prefer Camera Faithful with my R6. There's the odd time when it adds too much red to my skin tones, but that's an easy fix.
makes complete sense to me! thanks 🙂
Do I need to have my presets in raw defaults on Camera Settings or in Adobe Default if I bought your KJ Imagen Preset?
I’ll jump in for her as she did not explain what are those profiles. When shooting raw, the program you use (Lr, C1, etc) will read the data and show it to you how it understands it. It will differ a bit from one to the other. Enters Adobe Prifiles (or C1 profiles for example) this is a key for the data to be displayed. If you pick Adobe Landscape fir example, you will se a difference in saturation, vibrance and a little contrast for the most part. Would you choose the Adobe Portrait instead, you would get a different end result, mostly in contrast and color (not saturation). Thing is, you won’t see the adjustments because it’s just a way for the program to understand what every raw values should be represented. Kind of a pre-preset before the adjustments. To better understand this you can look at the Camera profiles instead of the Adobe (same menu but click Browse at the bottom) and you will find “Camera Matching” instead of Adobe Raw. (Note that you won’t find this with other file types like JPEG, TIFF or even DNG). So the Camera Matching ones will be the same as if you would go in you camera and chose one from there. The kicker is that what you choose in this camera menu is what will be shown on you camera screen and viewfinder AND will also be “baked in” the JPEGS that’s the camera produces. So if you don’t care about knowing how it works and just want to know “how to do it” (trust me, there’s a world of difference here) just set your settings in Lr so that it always open Raw files in the same profile as your camera (she spoke about that). Then, every image that you import will closely resemble what your camera shows you. You can then edit from there but mind you, some adjustments are been made in the background so in the extremes it will affect highlight and shadow recovery, colors and noise. That’s the main reason why we choose a more neutral (or in my case the Faithfull) profile to start with. Again, in my case my camera is set to Faithfull so I see the same image on my monitor that in my camera.
And finally to answer your question. No you should not need to change anything in your camera if you are going to apply a preset. It will have the profile information too so you may see it change one you apply it if the one you have is not the same she used. If she did not include the Treatment & Profile setting when she created the preset, it will remain the same as the one you have selected and may affect the final look but you’ll never know so don’t bother and play with them until you find your sweet spot.
Hope it helps ✌🏻
@@NovaTheWhite (Let me start saying I have a dslr, not a mirrorless.) The camera shows us a jpeg on the screen, but that is not the RAW file. That camera screen jpeg is based on settings in the camera, (I just learned this from Simon D'entremont) and shouldn't affect the RAW file. I shoot only in RAW, (no additional jpeg file). An example is when I put the camera in monochrome mode, it shows as bw on the camera screen, but when I go to edit it in LRC it shows as color. But I'm sure Adobe applies settings, the one that seems to be the default is Adobe Color. How do I get the plain RAW file, would I change the default to Camera Standard, under the Edit, Preferences menu, and make sure that's what is selected under the Basic menu, too? There, there is Camera Matching, but in that category there are six options including Faithful and Neutral.
Your a lot better than others in lightroom
I want to see my RAW files as they are with no adjustments. I don't know how to do that, to get rid of those preset or profiles adjustments. One is called profiles, on the right, and then the other is called presets under the Edit, Preferences menu. Camera Standard vs Adobe Standard. I'll have to look into the differences, but it seems both apply some adjustments, which I don't want. (The back of the camera is showing a jpg file, not RAW, and that jpg can be adjusted, those adjustments don't affect the RAW file. That's something people need to know. )
Another thing that may be happening is under the "Detail" section, it looks like adjustments are being applied to the sharpening and the manual noise reduction, and that doesn't change if I adjust within the Adobe Profiles, as well as they don't change when I switch to Camera Standard.
@@L.Spencer There is no 'no adjustments' with raw files - raw files need to be interpreted in some way. Using Canon DPP you'll get the official Canon version of this interpretation, if that's what you are looking for. You can export from DPP to .dng and continue to edit in LR, if you want to start with the official Canon interpretation. Still, you'll have to decide on the Canon picture style to be used within DPP, though.
@@tom_k_d That's hard for me to understand, actually. But thank you, I'll keep it in mind!
@@L.Spencer .CR3 files store the 14-bit luminance values for each of the Bayer pattern pixels (2x green, one red, one blue). They require demosaicing as a first step. This is were raw editors like LR or C1 do the heavy lifting behind the scenes - else, you could simply use Photoshop.
@@tom_k_d Do you mean I could open the raw files in photoshop and see the more original photo? If so, I didn't know that. :)
My R6 profile is Faithful with a wb hue of M2 B2, took me a long time to dial it in. I used the Canon DPP to dial it in and I have been much happier. I have LR set to import to camera settings.
You're doing that in all lighting settings?
@@shawnyshawna1313 Hi, yes my color profile is the above then I will adjust the WB to the needs of the shoot. For my headshots I shoot 5500, for outdoor portraits I will use AWB-W mostly. I came from Nikon to the R6, took me 18+ mths to find a color palette I really liked, the DPP app was a life saver being able to dial it in.
What does white balance M2 B2 mean? Really struggling with chaning WB in Lightroom making skin tones weird with the R6
@@paintedmoments_ On Tab 3, W/B SHIFT is the 3rd one. You can tweak the WB even more. I spent a good few weeks trying combos and M2 B2 on Faithful looks best to my eyes. HIGHLY recommend. Take test shots as you have yours setup, use the Canon DPP software and tweak, you can try my way to see if that works for you.
You have students? OMG. You ARE the student.
Great Video
Preset to camera setting defeats the purpose of the raw file to begin with. Lightroom proficiency is key.
Switch to Nikon 🤣 But really tho... So glad I went back!
pssst, which Nikon? Asking for a friend
@@Itsmejess33 ZF all day for me but any with the latest AF like Z8 or Z9 as well.
Who is responsible for all those babies Katelyn?
Well well .... very good idea to throw all the Adobe crap onto your R6 raw file 🙄🙄🙄. Instead of starting out with a really flat file .... and have way more control of the tone mapping and colors .
Why accepting Adobe's view of things ????
Folks learn image editing .... instead of using crappy presets !!!!!!!!!!
Color profiles aren't adobe crap and they're not presets. It's part of editing. If you were shooting jpeg, the in camera profile setting would be baked in already. When we shoot RAW, it doesn't save in automatically so you need to set your profile in post.
I demand baby photos!!!
get to the point