Great video Leroy, love the in depth information. I am glad to see that I built my front diff the exact same way, slugging the alignment bar and reinforcements. You are a wealth of knowledge and we are very lucky to have you explain it all. I have to look at my Rockwell PSM diffs, I thought they were the same set up on the girdle, but now you have me second guessing myself. Thank you for the update !
@@rigneck I’m not sure what series your PSM are, but I believe the PS205, & PS250 have a stationary ring gear with the planet gears pinned/driving the hub, so the wheel would be driven the same direction as the axle shaft, Nothing wrong with that system at all!
Once I saw the style of your fab skills I knew it was skipppedlink from Pirate 4x4. I always followed your builds as you were very in depth and a great fabricator, I really liked it when you welded a lot of parts with 7018. reel happy to have found your channel, keep up the great fab work! Oh I was 420Willys on Pirate.
@@JasonM-d7mI definitely remember the username! If only I had been documenting stuff here when I started posting over there! I appreciate the props & the support!
Awesome, I still remember your willy's build up on Pirate, really in depth and awesome. It looks like the petibone stuff just dwarfs the techs, spindle, planetaries etc. Seems popular putting the petibone outers on 5 ton rocks, see it alot in the bog truck world. Are you running the third members upsi down for rear engine, figured that's why you touched on the rotation of things. going to be a fun project.
@@Jason.O379 the pinion up configuration is definitely on purpose for this truck, when I get back to the axle project I’ll cover that more in depth, I almost did this video, but it was already getting pretty long.
Right after watching this video took me about 15 mins to make a foot pedal for my mig welder simple 2 wire Tigger just need a plug that fits the front of the welder easy enuff I been needing that in my life can now tack with my foot holding parts in place
Chalice :o) I like it better than champagne. And swivel housing! ;p) That is a neat trick how the knuckle splits because the leverage force is way lower than the taper bearing pressed into the ball part. Hub; I think the gear drop is half with that set up and Zeta tractors did the same, but we never figured out why? Caster Angle; The old Range Rover diff pointed up at a very steep angle so that the two UJ’s were the same angle but opposite, so they still cancelled each other out at normal running height. Below and above that wasn’t a steep enough angle to cause trouble even with full time 4x4. I keep it as an idea in my back pocket incase I ever need to take thepiss on a short drive shaft. Bizarrely a lot of folk ran a UJ at the diff end and a double CV UJ at the transfer box end which worked very well and logically shouldn’t have :D
I added a foot switch, The MIG gun plugs into the welder via a 2 pin plug, I found that same connector/plug & basically just wired in a switch I could step on, rather than squeeze the trigger on the mig gun.
Its wild to think that 10 bolts and a register is all it takes to keep a monster truck wheel assembly attached to an axle when they come down off 30' jumps. Its also wild how narrow the axle housing is without the planeteries bolted on. It looks like a big tire drag car housing. Lol
@@chrisbrosco7142 sometimes those 10 bolts aren’t quite enough! The Strait Up Racing team are getting ready to switch all their trucks to 14 bold mounting flanges & champagnes!
Great video and fabrication mate 👍👍. Interesting seeing this work and how similar it is to my own custom built little Land Rover axles 😁. LR has their swivel balls (Champagne) bolted to the axle housing as yours are, they also use a CV joint (Rzeppa , but probably closer to a Birfield) . I don’t have planetary ends , though there was a small run of planetary axled Land Rovers in the 60s called Forest Rovers that ran 48-52” tyres. One thing I did after the housing was all fabricated and check/restraighted, was to put in a large lathe and turn the end flanges flat. I’d be interested in how flat your flanges are after welding (that pre heat may have helped) and if you need to machine them? Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺 🍺
@@husq2100 I did machine each flange after welding the flanges to the tubing, they were only .002” or so from flat, I would assume they are pretty close to that again (.002-.003”) after welding them to the axle tube.
@@brianbures4478 This particular set I’m currently working with came off a crane that was in a semi-local wrecking yard. I bought both complete axles out of the crane.
Never have seen anything on monster truck axles but my only question is do you have issues with the bolts breaking that go from the flange to the champagne, it just seems like a lot of leverage from the end of the hub to the flange ?
@@treyblacksmith6554 Those bolts can be a weak point, There are a couple guys developing an aftermarket champagne & flange that uses 14 bolts in that location.
@@jamessheets9205 no real concerns, I’ve run differentials “pinion up” before with good results, If the duration of run time was longer I might look into a small oil mod or two, but for a maximum of 2 minutes worth of bouncing around, I think they’ll be ok.
Finally some monster truck axle tech. Im sure the masses will learn from this video.
One of the only videos on the Internet that shows monster truck axle info! Thanks
@@skeeterbuildsit6016 more to come as well!
@@skippedlinkawesome! There’s so many different crane/planetary axles look forward to learning !
Great video Leroy, love the in depth information.
I am glad to see that I built my front diff the exact same way, slugging the alignment bar and reinforcements. You are a wealth of knowledge and we are very lucky to have you explain it all.
I have to look at my Rockwell PSM diffs, I thought they were the same set up on the girdle, but now you have me second guessing myself.
Thank you for the update !
@@rigneck I’m not sure what series your PSM are, but I believe the PS205, & PS250 have a stationary ring gear with the planet gears pinned/driving the hub, so the wheel would be driven the same direction as the axle shaft,
Nothing wrong with that system at all!
Those planetaries sure look skookum. Also loving that stub-shaft setup (no u-joints). You did a great job selecting your components.
TH-cam acts like a deck of cards Your site just showed up. Good job
This was in depth and informative. Love this video
Once I saw the style of your fab skills I knew it was skipppedlink from Pirate 4x4. I always followed your builds as you were very in depth and a great fabricator, I really liked it when you welded a lot of parts with 7018. reel happy to have found your channel, keep up the great fab work! Oh I was 420Willys on Pirate.
@@JasonM-d7mI definitely remember the username!
If only I had been documenting stuff here when I started posting over there!
I appreciate the props & the support!
I like the trailer jacks on your welding table. Great idea.
That is a great idea
Ol 2 stroker 4 life!!
Who knew Zach Galifianakis was into monster trucks! i loved you in hangover, your the type of guy i could party with!
Love your work! I can't believe you are not 100K subs yet! Looks good!
Great vid,lots of detailed info
As always an awesome video. Thanks for the tech, fab work and attention to detail. Good luck with the new build!
Awesome video, probably bigger than anything I’ll ever use but I appreciate the tech. Love hybrid axles!
Great video. I’ve been building sheet metal housings for 106 3rds and using galion corners.
Awesome, I still remember your willy's build up on Pirate, really in depth and awesome. It looks like the petibone stuff just dwarfs the techs, spindle, planetaries etc. Seems popular putting the petibone outers on 5 ton rocks, see it alot in the bog truck world. Are you running the third members upsi down for rear engine, figured that's why you touched on the rotation of things.
going to be a fun project.
@@Jason.O379 the pinion up configuration is definitely on purpose for this truck, when I get back to the axle project I’ll cover that more in depth, I almost did this video, but it was already getting pretty long.
Enlightening
Loving this info!
Right after watching this video took me about 15 mins to make a foot pedal for my mig welder simple 2 wire Tigger just need a plug that fits the front of the welder easy enuff I been needing that in my life can now tack with my foot holding parts in place
Nice video! I'm running Pettibone axles on my Monster Truck to, still have to weld the steering brackets on both.
Modified Semi rear end with Cab over box in place of fifth wheel. Just a thought
Great video!!!
Chalice :o) I like it better than champagne. And swivel housing! ;p) That is a neat trick how the knuckle splits because the leverage force is way lower than the taper bearing pressed into the ball part. Hub; I think the gear drop is half with that set up and Zeta tractors did the same, but we never figured out why? Caster Angle; The old Range Rover diff pointed up at a very steep angle so that the two UJ’s were the same angle but opposite, so they still cancelled each other out at normal running height. Below and above that wasn’t a steep enough angle to cause trouble even with full time 4x4. I keep it as an idea in my back pocket incase I ever need to take thepiss on a short drive shaft. Bizarrely a lot of folk ran a UJ at the diff end and a double CV UJ at the transfer box end which worked very well and logically shouldn’t have :D
Your mig welder has a foot pedal, or you adapted a foot pedal to it? If adapted, maybe sometime explain how you did it!
I added a foot switch,
The MIG gun plugs into the welder via a 2 pin plug, I found that same connector/plug & basically just wired in a switch I could step on, rather than squeeze the trigger on the mig gun.
Cool. I googled a little on your center section and found a company called Vander Haggs. I was shocked at how reasonable their prices are.
16:15 pretty sure that's some sorta home brew 3d printer for metal
Cool build, I have been watching it on irate as well
nice!
Thought the name was Reppezza Apologies
It’s actually spelled Rzeppa
Its wild to think that 10 bolts and a register is all it takes to keep a monster truck wheel assembly attached to an axle when they come down off 30' jumps. Its also wild how narrow the axle housing is without the planeteries bolted on. It looks like a big tire drag car housing. Lol
@@chrisbrosco7142 sometimes those 10 bolts aren’t quite enough!
The Strait Up Racing team are getting ready to switch all their trucks to 14 bold mounting flanges & champagnes!
Great video and fabrication mate 👍👍.
Interesting seeing this work and how similar it is to my own custom built little Land Rover axles 😁. LR has their swivel balls (Champagne) bolted to the axle housing as yours are, they also use a CV joint (Rzeppa , but probably closer to a Birfield) . I don’t have planetary ends , though there was a small run of planetary axled Land Rovers in the 60s called Forest Rovers that ran 48-52” tyres.
One thing I did after the housing was all fabricated and check/restraighted, was to put in a large lathe and turn the end flanges flat.
I’d be interested in how flat your flanges are after welding (that pre heat may have helped) and if you need to machine them?
Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺 🍺
@@husq2100 I did machine each flange after welding the flanges to the tubing, they were only .002” or so from flat,
I would assume they are pretty close to that again (.002-.003”) after welding them to the axle tube.
Where did you get the pettibone corners from?
@@brianbures4478
This particular set I’m currently working with came off a crane that was in a semi-local wrecking yard.
I bought both complete axles out of the crane.
Never have seen anything on monster truck axles but my only question is do you have issues with the bolts breaking that go from the flange to the champagne, it just seems like a lot of leverage from the end of the hub to the flange ?
@@treyblacksmith6554
Those bolts can be a weak point,
There are a couple guys developing an aftermarket champagne & flange that uses 14 bolts in that location.
@ gotcha , this is a super awesome technical video btw
Dang that stuff is monstrous!! Is it bigger and heavier than the mrap stuff you're currently using
@@oldiron2413 way bigger!
Once these are complete I’ll have to do a side by side comparison.
@skippedlink it doesn't seem very long ago old buddy The Dana 60 High pinion was King😂
So both of those axles will steer, & the brakes to stop are on the driveline shafts??
Am I getting that correct?
@@gregprocknal9232 you are correct.
Do you have any concerns about oiling since you flipped the third members? Were mods necessary to the oiling?
@@jamessheets9205 no real concerns, I’ve run differentials “pinion up” before with good results,
If the duration of run time was longer I might look into a small oil mod or two, but for a maximum of 2 minutes worth of bouncing around, I think they’ll be ok.
Whats the diameter of the ring gear on those? I know a lot of the strength comes from the planetary hubs.
@@primalbeans I’m not sure, (they are pretty big) I’ll measure one & get back to you on that.
@@primalbeans looks like between 14 & 15 inches, (eyeballing with a tape measure while still in the 3rd member)
@@skippedlink 14 or 15" must be black
If you need 20- 145 rear truck housings get ahold of me.🏁
ER70 S. ??
@@papercloset1568 that’s what I normally run.