Having a 20 year background in dirt track oval racing in karts my thought was to immediately make my own chassis so I can design my own geometry. Since karts have no suspension I have a very good understanding of caster and camber, I think my design should be pretty good. Just got back into the hobby since I was a kid, can’t wait to build an oval car too. The easiest way for anyone not understanding camber is the tire leaning either inwards or outwards whereas caster is the tire leaning either forwards or backwards. Since the short course trucks have that kick up it leaves the shock tower at I’d guess a 20% angle to the chassis meaning it has caster built into it. There isn’t an easy way to define scrub radius but it’s not something you’d want going in a straight line. My biggest thought is to tire construction to keep ballooning to a minimum. I got enough knowledge of tire prep where I know I can get anything to hook, main concern is the tires sidewall and shoulder
Tires have came a long way. They don’t ballon like those you see on the stadium trucks. They’re constructed completely different. They don’t have a soft foam inside with tire slipped over. They use a hard foam with rubber adhered to it.
I have been through at least 8 Hunter alignment classes and have a firm grasp of alignment geometry but I really like the way you explain it. I think even someone without prior knowledge would understand your point
Thanks Bro, I really appreciate the support. New NPRC content is coming soon, some great results after dialing in the car on the set up station and figured out a great way to tune with it specifically for no prep RC, again thanks for the support.
@@danielmacias4529 I can do one better, show you what has replaced it and why. Theory and Practice had some words N something better and a little more simple has replaced the chassis. Make things easier Fer everybody. Video coming soon
at 132' feet in under 1.98 seconds I can assure first hand by the time my front wheels actually touch pavement the race is over & usually Won. so is that a prettier chassis & fancier looking Yes for sure, but is it necessary no Not at all especially for an expierenced driver!! most important part of any racing is Practice & learning how to properly tune your suspension motor & esc & then Practice again & again.. 💯🏁🤙🏼
It's all in the Tuning and importantly maintenance of the kit. With the most important part of any racing is practice and learning how to properly tune your suspension motor and esc then practice again and again the chassis is just a base to work with. Get good enough can get pretty much anything to go straight. I was originally a bit over complicated with this chassis, too much custom this custom that getting it consisten after crashes required redoing a lot of complicated BS. I've switched up to a more simple base Xtream RC chassis, more or less same Dual plate split by standoffs chassis but Hella less complicated. As with any chassis tho, it's all in the tuning and set up. Check out my videos on wheel angle tuning on a setup station, corner balancing even tire belting snd balancing. As you said most important part is practice and learning how to properly tune 👌
Problem with having no caster is it makes the car very unstable at the top end of the track direction wise. Any crack, bump, divet, or rock on the ground can send the car off entirely. If you want a stable car that goes straight and isn't jerky at high speed, keep the stock caster and make the servo have very small endpoints
Not as much as you would think, by 30 foot it's point and shoot, A little static camber is all it takes. Castorless set ups have take home the Duckets on Cash Days a fair amount over the last year and got crowns in a few Area Codes. In comparison to the kick up set ups with 30 degrees Castor, Ill take Zero with a little static camber
This guy did his home work. Another tip these no prep guys do is they shave down the excess rubber around the sealed bearings in the hubs/wheels. Yes there is a noticeable amount of excessively continous spinning. Less friction.
Back in the day we used to convert belt driven nitro touring cars like the HPI nitro Rs2 to drag cars, but you pretty much have to redo the whole front suspension and always have the limitations of independent rear suspension. A drag specific chassis is always better.
traxxas built their drag car off that chasie you showed ther caster and they did that so when you adjust the steering to very small it still steers but better than a regular car
Hello there.. I know this video is over a year old but was wondering what kit is this that you have? Where did you get the colored parts? What speed controller/motor ? im knew to no prep and want to build my own car but not sure what to look for.. I really like the RCRI stuff
Very quality company. But my only problem is the 4.5lbs weight limit in the street eliminator class. So I can’t see spending all the cash for carbon. Completely different from my full carbon 2.4lbs bandit
4.5lbs is ready to run, with body and all. This build with battery and wheels is 4.3lbs well inside the rules once the body is on. Some alloy up front makes for better balance without adding ballast weight
That thing looks like it'd be a fun platform to build a muscle car or drift car on as well. And I'm already thinking of how I might coax an engine into it instead of a motor; for me if it don't go brap it don't go in my garage haha.
I agree and disagree with you. What you are complaining about on the front of the sc trucks is bump steer. Caster is actually the relationship between the top king pin and the bottom king pin (ball joints) caster is actually a good thing. Think of a bicycle if the front tire sits directly under the handle bars and you ride it down a hill you are having to hold the steering input more than if your front tire is raked out in front of handlebars. Caster actually helps a car track in a straight line. I do agree with the fact that this chassis is an awesome design and works beautifully and I do thank you for posting this video
uhhh, sure, you free to disagree, but I have to say, I think you mixed up I understand and know what caster is, camber and so on, I do things my way and sharing the experience. We no riding a bike BTW ;)
Just using an easier analogy and was not saying that you don't know what camber and caster are I was simply stating that what you were saying was a bump steer issue not a caster issue. With having a zero caster setup you achieve zero gain in bump steer. But hey I'm sorry if you feel like I am trying to belittle you in any way.
@@jakm0nkee1 Im sorry, you are a little bit confused on what Im talking about. Caster dont have nothing to do with bump steer, caster adds dynamic camber with steering inputs, so the more steering you give with high caster a high amount of dynamic camber is the result, when it comes to bump steer this is more about keeping toe settings uniform, adjusting to have no bump steer is just to keep the steering the same as the front end lifts then comes back down, keeping the same toe settings while it travels. The zero caster vs the 30 degrees kick up caster in OEM configuration will have around 15 degrees camber at 45 degrees steering, around 7 degrees with just around 22% steering angle. It wouldn't be a big deal if the kick up was only around 5 to 10 degrees, but 30, just way too much Zero is better and we can use static camber settings to counter the positive dynamic caster when the car is braking front dip, rear lift and a steering corrections needs to be made the end result keeping dynamic camber under 2 degrees while steering corrections are made. .
In addition, adjusting to have no camber gain, is kinda the same as bump steer but with camber settings, dialing out the camber gain keeps the camber settings the same through the suspension travel. Again, this nothing to do with the caster, caster in our application only really comes into play when making steering inputs and running less is to keep from steering inputs inducing too much dynamic camber angle
Terrible, was a bit of a nightmare. got way too complicated to work around chassis issues, I swapped over to new chassis and wheelie bar set up. Got full break down coming, accessible and more budget friendly and straight as an arrow.
@@colossalbigfoot256 Went simple after the last one was overcomplicated. Xtreme Rc kit, very simple and goes straight. I like the R1 chassis, seem like a winner but prices lil wonkey specially the body post gouge but my buddy Dibbz be doing well with it (20k prize) maybe the next build be on that, but this one here going for consistent hit.
To bad it takes several months to get anything from RCRI. My buddy is still waiting on a wheelie bar and it’s been 2 1/2 months so far. I understand he builds it all as he gets the orders in. The product is top notch but waiting for parts that long sucks.
I have to agree, they have some production issues also albeit they make issues right, just thus all takes time and can't wait on ish when race day coming up. I've got an update coming, full build breakdown after summer season
thanks bro, The shocks are 3Racing drift shocks with MST 29mm springs and Losi 100wt shock oil keep posted cuz big changes coming for the channel, got better lighting and video equipment for video quality and some new RC builds. The drag car is pretty much done and will have videos up when some replacement parts come after I crashed it on my fastest run yet of 65mph.
What do you think is the difference between a bandit/rustler chassis and a Slash? Hmmm couldn't be the length could it, oh yeah it is. This Chassis is Slash length, longer than a Bandit or Rustler ;) SC length ;) As for Castor, 5 to 10 deg maybe a little bit but not 30 and even then with around 5 to 10 (what an average road car has) the higher you go the harder it is to steer... We dont have adjustability but fixed 30 deg, way too high for the application and in absence of front bulk with 10 deg, Zero MUCH better than 30 :D
@@NorthSideCustomRC well the chassis has a different shape. But honestly 43mm longer wheelbase a higher center of gravity (standard chassis) skinnier tires (rustler) plus SCT tend to run a size smaller. Like how a body and wheels turn a 1/10 slash into a 1/8 buggy.
@@masjuggalo The specs are that of the SC specifically for the length ;) The shape is irrelevant as its aftermarket and don't look like Slash or Bandit chassis regardless its specs are SC. COG the 2 are relatively identical Bandit and Slash This is NOT for what you seem to think tho, This is a No Prep Drag Car on a Big Tire. The reason body and wheels turn a Slash into a 1/8 buggy vs Just a Bandit, is its longer :D and wider. We generally consider these No Prep cars around 7th scale but the Bodies not exactly scaled super accurate it is what it is
@@NorthSideCustomRC I get it the cheap go fast Traxxas setup is a bandit with a 43mm stretch. I also believe the slash a arms are a little bit longer but that's stock stuffs anyway. No hate intended
@@masjuggalo yeah the longer length helps when trying to push 70mph in 132 feet on a 2s battery and a 5lbs car. The Slash has longer arms, some use them or a mix of bandit arms in the rear and slash arms in the front, skinnier the car is tho the better it cuts air over 50mph and messing with track width can tweak how she reacts to corrections trying to go straight. Cheers keep eyes on the build been a bit delayed on the next video but the car should be testing today and in her first proper race next week
nice chassis but you have the caster blocks on the wrong side. you have positive caster because you have the left caster block on the right side. but it could be an illusion from the camera angle.
FYI: real drag cars are actually built with a lot of caster in them in order to help the car track straighter. Not sure how this applies to RC (I have 0 experience with RC, only real drag cars) where it seems like you have to drive the hell out of it. Our dragster has more caster than you could get with a traditional a-arm setup, and if you look at most door cars they modify the mounting points to try and achieve more than the factory amount could allow.
@@NorthSideCustomRC some do, most stock front suspension cars can’t adjust to that but tube chassis cars can be built that way. They don’t have “kick up” as you referred to it though. They move the upper ball joint pivot back in lieu of tilting the lower a-arm as you explained. The point you made is valid no matter what, the cars are made for off roading not drag racing so a chassis designed for drag racing should be better overall
@@bigblockmaro1 The question wasn't really "can they" the question was "Do they" . So you think its a thing to run 30 degrees caster? The position I have is not that caster is bad, the position is that 0 is better than 30. Ideal would be around 5 to 10 IMO but 0 again IMO better than 30, way way way better.
@@bigblockmaro1I have no doubt the tube chassis can be built that way, Ive been trying to say, Ive never in my life seen a tube chassis built with 30 degrees caster, and I was going over a 7 second 1/4 mile tube chassis car yesterday. They can build 70 degrees caster if they wanted to the question is WHO would want to, same with 30, it can be done but who in they right mind would want to. I would prefer 5 to 10 personally, but Ill take Zero over 30 this is the point, we not talking about what is best, we talking about what is best with the options we have
I think the arrow is one of the best platforms to build a No Prep car. The only issue I have personally is that is all done, everything made to order, I get my kicks from the piecing together a build with a particular build philosophy picking each part and trying out my own twist. The arrow is probably the best need nothing type kit. .
Love the video, need better lighting. Also how did you get the rear shock tower to mount to the hr trans? The mounting plate I have to mount it with from the kit has the wrong hole pattern.
Thank You, and I do plan on getting lighting and making a sorta studio section to film at. Still new at the video side of things but learning as I go. The rear shock tower from XR has its own mounting plate, the one from RCRI should fit the HR tranny but I didn't actually try to use it as I went with XR shock tower :/
Theres alot of good chassis’s out there, this is not the best . Its a nice chassis but there is others that will work or work better . We have guys with stock lcg chassis doing 2.2s its not the chassis its how you tune what you got. No matter what you got or how much you spend you still have to go down the road.
With the conclusion "its not the chassis, it's how you tune" (I agree somewhat, I helped tune one of the first on the record 70mph plus 2.1 passes in NPRC) This would suggest what you think is the best chassis regardless is a valid opinion but also what I personally think is the best chassis at the time of the video is also a valid opinion. Im not posting videos with anybody else opinion but my own and I would hope you agree Im free to believe whatever chassis I want to is best ;) now some chassis have come out since then plus some new upgrades that IMO may be better suited than this one here, but it was at the time IMO and still is one of the best ;) Cheeeeerio .
number 1 that chassis he grabbed is a bandit NOT a short coarse chassis its a buggy ......@ the slash platform has 000000 kick up even tho you created that term never heard it used before... 3 the carbon chassis on t6able does NOT FOLLOW ANY RULES FOR NO PREP RC RACING ..FALSE INFO PEOPLE.. NICE CHASSIS for the unlimited class i guess
Have to make some corrections for the misinformation in your comment. 1st The Carbon Chassis IS NOT a Bandit based chassis, this is due to the wheelbase. The key difference in the Buggy and Short Course chassis is the wheelbase and track width (few other irrelevant differences still) It is a Short Course Wheelbase annnnnnnnnnd so a SC spec Chassis, and far as using Bandit Arms for a NPRC build, have you looked at the NPRC Bodies from Proline, most of them wont work without bandit arms lol :O The Bandit and a Slash share pretty much all parts aside from chassis and arms :O so you are wrong, its NOT a Buggy chassis ;) Kick Up you need in the nuts lol The Slash Platform & Bandit for that matter both have 30 degree kick up, its a new term to you because you dont seem to know much of anything lol, that is th angle the chassis angles up at the front vs the flat bottom. with the bulk on a 30 degree angle the result is 30 degrees of Castor angle ;) . I also didnt invent the term :O As far as No Prep Rules, it follows all NPRC Chassis rules as far as all cash days and even most NPRC area code list races, if you think otherwise but cant point out a regulation its breaching you must be a clown, Say Goodnight.
You are kind of backwards. Caster IS what you want in drag racing. Have you never seen a dragster turn its wheel? More caster makes a car want to run straight. Off road cars use a lot of caster to make them less twitchy. Back in the day when we raced rc10's on dirt oval, we piled as much caster as possible to make them smoother.
Yeah thats the problem with using an off road car for a drag car. a little castor is okay and helps track straight BUT too much is very very bad and makes for harsh corrections. If the castor was 5 to 10 deg it would be alright but 30 degrees and it makes for carving corrections ;) given the choice of 30 or Zero, Ill take Zero every time in a drag car, but on an off road buggy 30 deg please.
Having a 20 year background in dirt track oval racing in karts my thought was to immediately make my own chassis so I can design my own geometry. Since karts have no suspension I have a very good understanding of caster and camber, I think my design should be pretty good. Just got back into the hobby since I was a kid, can’t wait to build an oval car too.
The easiest way for anyone not understanding camber is the tire leaning either inwards or outwards whereas caster is the tire leaning either forwards or backwards. Since the short course trucks have that kick up it leaves the shock tower at I’d guess a 20% angle to the chassis meaning it has caster built into it. There isn’t an easy way to define scrub radius but it’s not something you’d want going in a straight line.
My biggest thought is to tire construction to keep ballooning to a minimum. I got enough knowledge of tire prep where I know I can get anything to hook, main concern is the tires sidewall and shoulder
Tires have came a long way. They don’t ballon like those you see on the stadium trucks. They’re constructed completely different. They don’t have a soft foam inside with tire slipped over. They use a hard foam with rubber adhered to it.
Your homemade shit would get smoked lol
I have been through at least 8 Hunter alignment classes and have a firm grasp of alignment geometry but I really like the way you explain it. I think even someone without prior knowledge would understand your point
Thanks Bro, I really appreciate the support. New NPRC content is coming soon, some great results after dialing in the car on the set up station and figured out a great way to tune with it specifically for no prep RC, again thanks for the support.
@@NorthSideCustomRC can you remind me as what chassis that is again, so sorry for repetition!!!
@@danielmacias4529 I can do one better, show you what has replaced it and why. Theory and Practice had some words N something better and a little more simple has replaced the chassis. Make things easier Fer everybody. Video coming soon
at 132' feet in under 1.98 seconds I can assure first hand by the time my front wheels actually touch pavement the race is over & usually Won. so is that a prettier chassis & fancier looking Yes for sure, but is it necessary no Not at all especially for an expierenced driver!! most important part of any racing is Practice & learning how to properly tune your suspension motor & esc & then Practice again & again.. 💯🏁🤙🏼
It's all in the Tuning and importantly maintenance of the kit. With the most important part of any racing is practice and learning how to properly tune your suspension motor and esc then practice again and again the chassis is just a base to work with. Get good enough can get pretty much anything to go straight.
I was originally a bit over complicated with this chassis, too much custom this custom that getting it consisten after crashes required redoing a lot of complicated BS. I've switched up to a more simple base Xtream RC chassis, more or less same Dual plate split by standoffs chassis but Hella less complicated.
As with any chassis tho, it's all in the tuning and set up. Check out my videos on wheel angle tuning on a setup station, corner balancing even tire belting snd balancing. As you said most important part is practice and learning how to properly tune 👌
Problem with having no caster is it makes the car very unstable at the top end of the track direction wise. Any crack, bump, divet, or rock on the ground can send the car off entirely. If you want a stable car that goes straight and isn't jerky at high speed, keep the stock caster and make the servo have very small endpoints
Not as much as you would think, by 30 foot it's point and shoot, A little static camber is all it takes. Castorless set ups have take home the Duckets on Cash Days a fair amount over the last year and got crowns in a few Area Codes.
In comparison to the kick up set ups with 30 degrees Castor, Ill take Zero with a little static camber
Greatly enjoyed the video. I have a DR10, but looking for my next build. Think I now know what chassis it will be!!!!!🙂
the caster also helps the car sit lower to the ground not allowing air to get under it
This guy did his home work. Another tip these no prep guys do is they shave down the excess rubber around the sealed bearings in the hubs/wheels.
Yes there is a noticeable amount of excessively continous spinning. Less friction.
Back in the day we used to convert belt driven nitro touring cars like the HPI nitro Rs2 to drag cars, but you pretty much have to redo the whole front suspension and always have the limitations of independent rear suspension. A drag specific chassis is always better.
Still have some modde hpi modded chassis we used mini rear suspension arms to fit bigger rear tires
traxxas built their drag car off that chasie you showed ther caster and they did that so when you adjust the steering to very small it still steers but better than a regular car
Thanks dude I have a bandit with almost all aluminum parts, has a side winder 4 with a castle motor and needs more speed
Make it lighter..
Always sweetness coming from this guy
Awesome build!
Where can I buy this chassis?
Hello there.. I know this video is over a year old but was wondering what kit is this that you have? Where did you get the colored parts? What speed controller/motor ? im knew to no prep and want to build my own car but not sure what to look for.. I really like the RCRI stuff
The chassis is discontinued I've moved to an XtremeRC chassis with R Designs Wheelie Bar and mount.
That is pure badassery!!!
Very quality company. But my only problem is the 4.5lbs weight limit in the street eliminator class. So I can’t see spending all the cash for carbon. Completely different from my full carbon 2.4lbs bandit
4.5lbs is ready to run, with body and all. This build with battery and wheels is 4.3lbs well inside the rules once the body is on. Some alloy up front makes for better balance without adding ballast weight
That thing looks like it'd be a fun platform to build a muscle car or drift car on as well. And I'm already thinking of how I might coax an engine into it instead of a motor; for me if it don't go brap it don't go in my garage haha.
Have fun being slow 🐌 🙃
@@murrijuana2842 Nitro is plenty fast enough. 40-50mph easy and more than capable of putting you in the hospital.
I agree and disagree with you. What you are complaining about on the front of the sc trucks is bump steer. Caster is actually the relationship between the top king pin and the bottom king pin (ball joints) caster is actually a good thing. Think of a bicycle if the front tire sits directly under the handle bars and you ride it down a hill you are having to hold the steering input more than if your front tire is raked out in front of handlebars. Caster actually helps a car track in a straight line. I do agree with the fact that this chassis is an awesome design and works beautifully and I do thank you for posting this video
uhhh, sure, you free to disagree, but I have to say, I think you mixed up I understand and know what caster is, camber and so on, I do things my way and sharing the experience. We no riding a bike BTW ;)
Just using an easier analogy and was not saying that you don't know what camber and caster are I was simply stating that what you were saying was a bump steer issue not a caster issue. With having a zero caster setup you achieve zero gain in bump steer. But hey I'm sorry if you feel like I am trying to belittle you in any way.
@@jakm0nkee1 Im sorry, you are a little bit confused on what Im talking about. Caster dont have nothing to do with bump steer, caster adds dynamic camber with steering inputs, so the more steering you give with high caster a high amount of dynamic camber is the result, when it comes to bump steer this is more about keeping toe settings uniform, adjusting to have no bump steer is just to keep the steering the same as the front end lifts then comes back down, keeping the same toe settings while it travels. The zero caster vs the 30 degrees kick up caster in OEM configuration will have around 15 degrees camber at 45 degrees steering, around 7 degrees with just around 22% steering angle. It wouldn't be a big deal if the kick up was only around 5 to 10 degrees, but 30, just way too much Zero is better and we can use static camber settings to counter the positive dynamic caster when the car is braking front dip, rear lift and a steering corrections needs to be made the end result keeping dynamic camber under 2 degrees while steering corrections are made. .
In addition, adjusting to have no camber gain, is kinda the same as bump steer but with camber settings, dialing out the camber gain keeps the camber settings the same through the suspension travel. Again, this nothing to do with the caster, caster in our application only really comes into play when making steering inputs and running less is to keep from steering inputs inducing too much dynamic camber angle
This guy knows
Very well done, thanks for the review.
How’s this chassis holding up? I can’t find online they all seem sold out. How does it compare to say Five Star?
Terrible, was a bit of a nightmare. got way too complicated to work around chassis issues, I swapped over to new chassis and wheelie bar set up. Got full break down coming, accessible and more budget friendly and straight as an arrow.
@@NorthSideCustomRC so what did you go with? The Five Star looks pretty good now.
@@colossalbigfoot256 Went simple after the last one was overcomplicated. Xtreme Rc kit, very simple and goes straight. I like the R1 chassis, seem like a winner but prices lil wonkey specially the body post gouge but my buddy Dibbz be doing well with it (20k prize) maybe the next build be on that, but this one here going for consistent hit.
Very nice chassis
Great video thanks
To bad it takes several months to get anything from RCRI. My buddy is still waiting on a wheelie bar and it’s been 2 1/2 months so far. I understand he builds it all as he gets the orders in. The product is top notch but waiting for parts that long sucks.
I have to agree, they have some production issues also albeit they make issues right, just thus all takes time and can't wait on ish when race day coming up. I've got an update coming, full build breakdown after summer season
Where can I purchased this drag race chassis?
Hey man great build even video! What shocks are you running?
thanks bro, The shocks are 3Racing drift shocks with MST 29mm springs and Losi 100wt shock oil
keep posted cuz big changes coming for the channel, got better lighting and video equipment for video quality and some new RC builds. The drag car is pretty much done and will have videos up when some replacement parts come after I crashed it on my fastest run yet of 65mph.
@@NorthSideCustomRC what did you use for a sway bar with the shorter shocks?
@@talkmobuccz I dont have a sway bar set up yet but Im looking into fixing something up
@@NorthSideCustomRC ok thanks man if you figure something out let me know or make a video
@@NorthSideCustomRC hi, where i can buy that chassis
Caster helps the car go straight BTW works on a rc car and a fuel dragster. Also that looks more like a bandit/rustler chassis so not a sct
What do you think is the difference between a bandit/rustler chassis and a Slash? Hmmm couldn't be the length could it, oh yeah it is. This Chassis is Slash length, longer than a Bandit or Rustler ;) SC length ;) As for Castor, 5 to 10 deg maybe a little bit but not 30 and even then with around 5 to 10 (what an average road car has) the higher you go the harder it is to steer... We dont have adjustability but fixed 30 deg, way too high for the application and in absence of front bulk with 10 deg, Zero MUCH better than 30 :D
@@NorthSideCustomRC well the chassis has a different shape. But honestly 43mm longer wheelbase a higher center of gravity (standard chassis) skinnier tires (rustler) plus SCT tend to run a size smaller. Like how a body and wheels turn a 1/10 slash into a 1/8 buggy.
@@masjuggalo The specs are that of the SC specifically for the length ;) The shape is irrelevant as its aftermarket and don't look like Slash or Bandit chassis regardless its specs are SC. COG the 2 are relatively identical Bandit and Slash This is NOT for what you seem to think tho, This is a No Prep Drag Car on a Big Tire. The reason body and wheels turn a Slash into a 1/8 buggy vs Just a Bandit, is its longer :D and wider. We generally consider these No Prep cars around 7th scale but the Bodies not exactly scaled super accurate it is what it is
@@NorthSideCustomRC I get it the cheap go fast Traxxas setup is a bandit with a 43mm stretch. I also believe the slash a arms are a little bit longer but that's stock stuffs anyway. No hate intended
@@masjuggalo yeah the longer length helps when trying to push 70mph in 132 feet on a 2s battery and a 5lbs car. The Slash has longer arms, some use them or a mix of bandit arms in the rear and slash arms in the front, skinnier the car is tho the better it cuts air over 50mph and messing with track width can tweak how she reacts to corrections trying to go straight. Cheers keep eyes on the build been a bit delayed on the next video but the car should be testing today and in her first proper race next week
Where can i buy that chassis? And whats that chassis called?
RC Racing Innovations Black Widow Street Eliminator Pro
Do you have a link or website where i can find them please thanks
I like your setup can make part list, found chassis but it don’t look your
I will be putting together a full breakdown video with links to the specific chassis as RCRI has 3 chassis for the Slash platform
th-cam.com/video/KVdk-qCnaEU/w-d-xo.html
nice chassis but you have the caster blocks on the wrong side. you have positive caster because you have the left caster block on the right side. but it could be an illusion from the camera angle.
Illusion, it's running zero caster due to reversed front tower
FYI: real drag cars are actually built with a lot of caster in them in order to help the car track straighter. Not sure how this applies to RC (I have 0 experience with RC, only real drag cars) where it seems like you have to drive the hell out of it. Our dragster has more caster than you could get with a traditional a-arm setup, and if you look at most door cars they modify the mounting points to try and achieve more than the factory amount could allow.
Do they have 30 degrees?
@@NorthSideCustomRC some do, most stock front suspension cars can’t adjust to that but tube chassis cars can be built that way. They don’t have “kick up” as you referred to it though. They move the upper ball joint pivot back in lieu of tilting the lower a-arm as you explained. The point you made is valid no matter what, the cars are made for off roading not drag racing so a chassis designed for drag racing should be better overall
@@bigblockmaro1 The question wasn't really "can they" the question was "Do they" . So you think its a thing to run 30 degrees caster? The position I have is not that caster is bad, the position is that 0 is better than 30. Ideal would be around 5 to 10 IMO but 0 again IMO better than 30, way way way better.
@@bigblockmaro1I have no doubt the tube chassis can be built that way, Ive been trying to say, Ive never in my life seen a tube chassis built with 30 degrees caster, and I was going over a 7 second 1/4 mile tube chassis car yesterday. They can build 70 degrees caster if they wanted to the question is WHO would want to, same with 30, it can be done but who in they right mind would want to. I would prefer 5 to 10 personally, but Ill take Zero over 30 this is the point, we not talking about what is best, we talking about what is best with the options we have
@@NorthSideCustomRC yes some have done it and still do it. They don’t run kick up as described in your video though.
Rcri?? Was that what drc drag race concepts is now?
Can you send me a detailed list of parts you used to build the car.
you buy it as a complete kit, it's on Amain
What’s your opinion on the 5 7 Arrow
I think the arrow is one of the best platforms to build a No Prep car. The only issue I have personally is that is all done, everything made to order, I get my kicks from the piecing together a build with a particular build philosophy picking each part and trying out my own twist. The arrow is probably the best need nothing type kit. .
This is no prep legal? Thanks
Sure is
Love the video, need better lighting. Also how did you get the rear shock tower to mount to the hr trans? The mounting plate I have to mount it with from the kit has the wrong hole pattern.
Thank You, and I do plan on getting lighting and making a sorta studio section to film at. Still new at the video side of things but learning as I go. The rear shock tower from XR has its own mounting plate, the one from RCRI should fit the HR tranny but I didn't actually try to use it as I went with XR shock tower :/
How you buy The front Wheel
Amain Hobbies has the Front wheels, they are Proline Ponoma and Hotties tires
do you have a link for this chassis?
Yes & No, its a weird one but I have figured out a hack and will make a video to show how to get this chassis new.
th-cam.com/video/KVdk-qCnaEU/w-d-xo.html
Theres alot of good chassis’s out there, this is not the best . Its a nice chassis but there is others that will work or work better . We have guys with stock lcg chassis doing 2.2s its not the chassis its how you tune what you got. No matter what you got or how much you spend you still have to go down the road.
With the conclusion "its not the chassis, it's how you tune" (I agree somewhat, I helped tune one of the first on the record 70mph plus 2.1 passes in NPRC) This would suggest what you think is the best chassis regardless is a valid opinion but also what I personally think is the best chassis at the time of the video is also a valid opinion. Im not posting videos with anybody else opinion but my own and I would hope you agree Im free to believe whatever chassis I want to is best ;) now some chassis have come out since then plus some new upgrades that IMO may be better suited than this one here, but it was at the time IMO and still is one of the best ;) Cheeeeerio .
Where can you buy them just like that that one?
RC Racing Innovations sells the chassis, but most everything else on it is aftermarket parts. Lots of custom building that goes into a NSCRC Built RC
th-cam.com/video/KVdk-qCnaEU/w-d-xo.html
number 1 that chassis he grabbed is a bandit NOT a short coarse chassis its a buggy ......@ the slash platform has 000000 kick up even tho you created that term never heard it used before... 3 the carbon chassis on t6able does NOT FOLLOW ANY RULES FOR NO PREP RC RACING ..FALSE INFO PEOPLE.. NICE CHASSIS for the unlimited class i guess
Have to make some corrections for the misinformation in your comment.
1st The Carbon Chassis IS NOT a Bandit based chassis, this is due to the wheelbase. The key difference in the Buggy and Short Course chassis is the wheelbase and track width (few other irrelevant differences still) It is a Short Course Wheelbase annnnnnnnnnd so a SC spec Chassis, and far as using Bandit Arms for a NPRC build, have you looked at the NPRC Bodies from Proline, most of them wont work without bandit arms lol :O The Bandit and a Slash share pretty much all parts aside from chassis and arms :O so you are wrong, its NOT a Buggy chassis ;)
Kick Up you need in the nuts lol
The Slash Platform & Bandit for that matter both have 30 degree kick up, its a new term to you because you dont seem to know much of anything lol, that is th angle the chassis angles up at the front vs the flat bottom. with the bulk on a 30 degree angle the result is 30 degrees of Castor angle ;) . I also didnt invent the term :O
As far as No Prep Rules, it follows all NPRC Chassis rules as far as all cash days and even most NPRC area code list races, if you think otherwise but cant point out a regulation its breaching you must be a clown, Say Goodnight.
You are kind of backwards. Caster IS what you want in drag racing. Have you never seen a dragster turn its wheel? More caster makes a car want to run straight. Off road cars use a lot of caster to make them less twitchy. Back in the day when we raced rc10's on dirt oval, we piled as much caster as possible to make them smoother.
Yeah thats the problem with using an off road car for a drag car. a little castor is okay and helps track straight BUT too much is very very bad and makes for harsh corrections. If the castor was 5 to 10 deg it would be alright but 30 degrees and it makes for carving corrections ;) given the choice of 30 or Zero, Ill take Zero every time in a drag car, but on an off road buggy 30 deg please.