Voron 0.2 Build Series - CAN Bus Toolhead Wiring
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I go through the process of wiring the CAN Bus Toolhead. I compare the Mellow Fly SHT36 V2 and the BTT EBB 36, which I ultimately ended up using. However, both boards are great and I'd recommend either one- whichever you feel most comfortable with. Hopefully my video gives you information to make a good decision.
The stock Voron 0.2 does NOT utilize a CAN Bus toolhead. This is "probably" overkill. I wanted to do it because I wanted to get some experience, and I like the idea of only running 4 wires instead of "every" wire for all the things (Thermistor, Hot End Fan, Part Fans, Heater Wiring, Motor Wiring- which is at least 12 wires). Most CAN Bus toolheads (including the ones I feature) also have a built in accelerometer that you can run any time, which is also a great feature.
Please note: I plan to cover step by step installation including CAN Bus configuration as part of my Voron 0.2 build series. This will be in a future video.
My build was sponsored by Boxxy Prints. Get your 3d printed parts here:
boxxyprints.com/product/v0-1-...
Printed part colors are from Fusion Filaments, Cosmic Ray Blue and Alpha Particle Orange ABS 1.5.
fusionfilaments.com/collectio...
Powder Coated Extrusions are from DLLPDF. These extrusions, at the time of the video are Mitsumi. They are powder coated and exactly 15mm x 15mm (the coating adds a small amount of thickness). I purchased a full v0.2 extrusion kit.
dllpdf.com/v0.2
Check here for CANBus toolhead mounts:
github.com/KayosMaker/CANboar...
Tool Recommendations: (not all were mentioned in this intro video, but are used later in my build):
**Disclosure: these are AFFILIATE LINKS- costs you nothing extra, and helps my channel
Components:
SKR Pico: amzn.to/3E0lZk5
Stepper online motors: amzn.to/3YoN6h4
Mellow Fly SHT 36 V2: boxxyprints.com/product/mello... * I planned to use this, but went BTT EBB36 due to a firmware issue.
BTT EBB36: amzn.to/3xdaphQ (I used V1, but this is V1.2)
Tools:
PA-09 Engineer Crimping tool: amzn.to/3aLgZB9
Hakko Soldering Station: amzn.to/3FZtsiM
Hakko Heat Insert Tool: amzn.to/3aLh6N5
Small Finishing Sander: amzn.to/3FTwt4p
Metal Ruler: amzn.to/3n5YsoQ
Small Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3DNNc7h
Heavy Duty Scissors: amzn.to/3DObKNm
Bondhus Hex Drivers (Ball Driver): amzn.to/3vpjti8
Wiha Hex Drivers: amzn.to/3vp5Tv4
Titan Ratcheting Crimper: amzn.to/3aKaONE
Ferrule Crimping Tool: amzn.to/2Z3axDb
Consumables:
Blue Permatex: amzn.to/3ATPmjE
Isopropyl Alcohol (Spray Bottle): amzn.to/3lRp1Pe
JST XH Connector Kit (Fan connectors, Motor Connectors, etc.): amzn.to/3BTMYuM
Synthetic Lube: amzn.to/3FUyptf
Synthetic Oil: amzn.to/3BW2TZE
Blue Permatex: amzn.to/3ATPmjE
Voron 0.1 Discord Link:
/ discord - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Just in time mine came in on Saturday! Prob going to install on the new v0.2
I had a bad experience with the Mellow umbilical PCB because of poor crimp quality in the main cable connectors causing short-term interruptions on heater and fan power depending on the print head position. It was frustratingly hard to nail down the cause and then undo the whole damn thing, when all cables were already trimmed down to the bare minimum lenght.
I installed a Mellow Fly SHT36 v2 CAN bus board on my Custom 300x300 bedslinger. It works well, but I have to agree, the smaller JST PH connectors are hard to work on with old eyes 🙂. Also, I mounted the heatsink on the TMC2209 driver, thinking it would get hotter than the MCU. All my other 2209s have heatsinks on them, but my Octopus v1.1 MCU does not, so I figured this was the way to go. Oddly, there is no manufacturer reference as to where to install the heatsink.
I struggled for a while trying to get my hot end thermistor to read properly and ended up going with a custom pull up value in Klipper. It turns out the heatsink on the stepper driver was shorting something out. When I removed it, I could redefine the pull up value to 4700 (standard value). Hopefully this helps others if they run into a similar problem. Also watch if you install the heatsink on the MCU instead - I've heard of others smoking the board if it short out there. Thankfully my board was not damaged by the heatsink.
Thanks for the comment! Good to know about the heat sink. I was carefully installing it and haven’t seen any issues yet, but it sounds like it may not even be necessary.
@@GregsMakerCorner I re-read my comment - Just to clarify, the old eyes I was referring to are mine. I was agreeing with you that the connectors are hard to crimp, not that you have old eyes, lol.
I'd like to add, that was a nice video - It's hard to compare the two CAN bus boards (Mellow and BTT) and you're one of the few (if not the only) to demonstrate and contrast both. Most online comments I found just say they are similar. To add to this, I originally purchased the Mellow Fly SHT36 v1 - which was cheaper - but then cancelled when I found the v2 version. I liked the select-able fan voltage and I read about some confusion with the pinouts on other connectors. Getting a pre-made cable helped to not switch V+ and V- with CAN H and CAN L like some users have run into. I'd also like to point out, that the v2 version moved to the non-STM processor and the firmware has to be updated over CAN bus - on this model my understanding is that you can't flash the firmware through USB.
I'd also like to add that if anyone is sitting on the fence about CAN bus, it's worth doing. Having a light tool head cable and being able to replace fans, swap hotends, etc without removing cables from drag chains or cable looms is worth the extra effort and learning curve to flash over CAN bus - and define your pins in Klipper to start with MCU names.
To finalize about the heatsink - I monitor the temperatures of my RPi, Controller MCU, CAN Bus MCU, and stepper drivers (x5) and I don't see any difference with or without the heatsink. Mind you, my tool head is not enclosed in the back.
@@yardmull3t273 Haha, funny because I just got glasses and had to get a second set of "computer glasses" because I can't see the screen very well with my normal distance glasses. Unfortunately I have a hard time with progressives.. my eyes are definitely not working to well these days! LOL I can relate to that.
Thanks again for taking the time to comment, I appreciate the insight and thoughts especially on the heat sink. And I definitely am glad I am running CAN Bus as well, it is totally worth the upgrade!
That heatsink should be on TMC ( as its "power" component ) MCU itself doesn't produce much heat.
Which mount did you print? I can find them for modded toolheads but not for the standard mini afterburner, I'm guessing I'm missing something obvious?
Nice video! Can I ask which printed file you used for the strain relief body? The one in the voron design github does not work with Canbus PCB. Thanks!
I believe I downloaded one from KayosMaker - github.com/KayosMaker/CANboard_Mounts. Check there.
Thanks so much!😀@@GregsMakerCorner
Did I miss the link to the canbus transceiver board? I'm looking to implement can on my v0 and I literally have no space for a u2c/utoc. I really like that tiny board and wondered where to purchase it.
The transceiver board does work great with the SKR Pico. I definitely recommend it over a u2c/utoc if you are running a Raspberry Pi 4. Check out my wiring video in part of the series, at about the 14:26 where I show it. th-cam.com/video/OVVrwAItSUU/w-d-xo.html
I have been planning a follow up to go into more detail on the connections but haven't gotten around to it yet.
do you still plan to show how to do the coding (configuration) part?@@GregsMakerCorner
Did you use the EBB with the MAX31865 or without? Is the MAX31865 a worthwhile upgrade for the few extra dollars?
I don’t use the one with. I don’t think it’s needed unless you are running a high sensitivity thermistor like a pt100. For what most of us print, it’s probably overkill. Best of luck!!
I'd love to install one, for easier maintenance, but there's no pin for the klicky probe, and mu 2 sequines led, sadly
Do you need to make any firmware changes to use the canbus?
Yeah, for the way I set it up you need to compile the brt skr pico to run in Canbus bridge mode.