I had a bad experience with the Mellow umbilical PCB because of poor crimp quality in the main cable connectors causing short-term interruptions on heater and fan power depending on the print head position. It was frustratingly hard to nail down the cause and then undo the whole damn thing, when all cables were already trimmed down to the bare minimum lenght.
Nice video! Can I ask which printed file you used for the strain relief body? The one in the voron design github does not work with Canbus PCB. Thanks!
I installed a Mellow Fly SHT36 v2 CAN bus board on my Custom 300x300 bedslinger. It works well, but I have to agree, the smaller JST PH connectors are hard to work on with old eyes 🙂. Also, I mounted the heatsink on the TMC2209 driver, thinking it would get hotter than the MCU. All my other 2209s have heatsinks on them, but my Octopus v1.1 MCU does not, so I figured this was the way to go. Oddly, there is no manufacturer reference as to where to install the heatsink. I struggled for a while trying to get my hot end thermistor to read properly and ended up going with a custom pull up value in Klipper. It turns out the heatsink on the stepper driver was shorting something out. When I removed it, I could redefine the pull up value to 4700 (standard value). Hopefully this helps others if they run into a similar problem. Also watch if you install the heatsink on the MCU instead - I've heard of others smoking the board if it short out there. Thankfully my board was not damaged by the heatsink.
Thanks for the comment! Good to know about the heat sink. I was carefully installing it and haven’t seen any issues yet, but it sounds like it may not even be necessary.
@@GregsMakerCorner I re-read my comment - Just to clarify, the old eyes I was referring to are mine. I was agreeing with you that the connectors are hard to crimp, not that you have old eyes, lol. I'd like to add, that was a nice video - It's hard to compare the two CAN bus boards (Mellow and BTT) and you're one of the few (if not the only) to demonstrate and contrast both. Most online comments I found just say they are similar. To add to this, I originally purchased the Mellow Fly SHT36 v1 - which was cheaper - but then cancelled when I found the v2 version. I liked the select-able fan voltage and I read about some confusion with the pinouts on other connectors. Getting a pre-made cable helped to not switch V+ and V- with CAN H and CAN L like some users have run into. I'd also like to point out, that the v2 version moved to the non-STM processor and the firmware has to be updated over CAN bus - on this model my understanding is that you can't flash the firmware through USB. I'd also like to add that if anyone is sitting on the fence about CAN bus, it's worth doing. Having a light tool head cable and being able to replace fans, swap hotends, etc without removing cables from drag chains or cable looms is worth the extra effort and learning curve to flash over CAN bus - and define your pins in Klipper to start with MCU names. To finalize about the heatsink - I monitor the temperatures of my RPi, Controller MCU, CAN Bus MCU, and stepper drivers (x5) and I don't see any difference with or without the heatsink. Mind you, my tool head is not enclosed in the back.
@@yardmull3t273 Haha, funny because I just got glasses and had to get a second set of "computer glasses" because I can't see the screen very well with my normal distance glasses. Unfortunately I have a hard time with progressives.. my eyes are definitely not working to well these days! LOL I can relate to that. Thanks again for taking the time to comment, I appreciate the insight and thoughts especially on the heat sink. And I definitely am glad I am running CAN Bus as well, it is totally worth the upgrade!
Did I miss the link to the canbus transceiver board? I'm looking to implement can on my v0 and I literally have no space for a u2c/utoc. I really like that tiny board and wondered where to purchase it.
The transceiver board does work great with the SKR Pico. I definitely recommend it over a u2c/utoc if you are running a Raspberry Pi 4. Check out my wiring video in part of the series, at about the 14:26 where I show it. th-cam.com/video/OVVrwAItSUU/w-d-xo.html I have been planning a follow up to go into more detail on the connections but haven't gotten around to it yet.
I don’t use the one with. I don’t think it’s needed unless you are running a high sensitivity thermistor like a pt100. For what most of us print, it’s probably overkill. Best of luck!!
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Just in time mine came in on Saturday! Prob going to install on the new v0.2
I had a bad experience with the Mellow umbilical PCB because of poor crimp quality in the main cable connectors causing short-term interruptions on heater and fan power depending on the print head position. It was frustratingly hard to nail down the cause and then undo the whole damn thing, when all cables were already trimmed down to the bare minimum lenght.
Nice video! Can I ask which printed file you used for the strain relief body? The one in the voron design github does not work with Canbus PCB. Thanks!
I believe I downloaded one from KayosMaker - github.com/KayosMaker/CANboard_Mounts. Check there.
Thanks so much!😀@@GregsMakerCorner
I installed a Mellow Fly SHT36 v2 CAN bus board on my Custom 300x300 bedslinger. It works well, but I have to agree, the smaller JST PH connectors are hard to work on with old eyes 🙂. Also, I mounted the heatsink on the TMC2209 driver, thinking it would get hotter than the MCU. All my other 2209s have heatsinks on them, but my Octopus v1.1 MCU does not, so I figured this was the way to go. Oddly, there is no manufacturer reference as to where to install the heatsink.
I struggled for a while trying to get my hot end thermistor to read properly and ended up going with a custom pull up value in Klipper. It turns out the heatsink on the stepper driver was shorting something out. When I removed it, I could redefine the pull up value to 4700 (standard value). Hopefully this helps others if they run into a similar problem. Also watch if you install the heatsink on the MCU instead - I've heard of others smoking the board if it short out there. Thankfully my board was not damaged by the heatsink.
Thanks for the comment! Good to know about the heat sink. I was carefully installing it and haven’t seen any issues yet, but it sounds like it may not even be necessary.
@@GregsMakerCorner I re-read my comment - Just to clarify, the old eyes I was referring to are mine. I was agreeing with you that the connectors are hard to crimp, not that you have old eyes, lol.
I'd like to add, that was a nice video - It's hard to compare the two CAN bus boards (Mellow and BTT) and you're one of the few (if not the only) to demonstrate and contrast both. Most online comments I found just say they are similar. To add to this, I originally purchased the Mellow Fly SHT36 v1 - which was cheaper - but then cancelled when I found the v2 version. I liked the select-able fan voltage and I read about some confusion with the pinouts on other connectors. Getting a pre-made cable helped to not switch V+ and V- with CAN H and CAN L like some users have run into. I'd also like to point out, that the v2 version moved to the non-STM processor and the firmware has to be updated over CAN bus - on this model my understanding is that you can't flash the firmware through USB.
I'd also like to add that if anyone is sitting on the fence about CAN bus, it's worth doing. Having a light tool head cable and being able to replace fans, swap hotends, etc without removing cables from drag chains or cable looms is worth the extra effort and learning curve to flash over CAN bus - and define your pins in Klipper to start with MCU names.
To finalize about the heatsink - I monitor the temperatures of my RPi, Controller MCU, CAN Bus MCU, and stepper drivers (x5) and I don't see any difference with or without the heatsink. Mind you, my tool head is not enclosed in the back.
@@yardmull3t273 Haha, funny because I just got glasses and had to get a second set of "computer glasses" because I can't see the screen very well with my normal distance glasses. Unfortunately I have a hard time with progressives.. my eyes are definitely not working to well these days! LOL I can relate to that.
Thanks again for taking the time to comment, I appreciate the insight and thoughts especially on the heat sink. And I definitely am glad I am running CAN Bus as well, it is totally worth the upgrade!
That heatsink should be on TMC ( as its "power" component ) MCU itself doesn't produce much heat.
Did I miss the link to the canbus transceiver board? I'm looking to implement can on my v0 and I literally have no space for a u2c/utoc. I really like that tiny board and wondered where to purchase it.
The transceiver board does work great with the SKR Pico. I definitely recommend it over a u2c/utoc if you are running a Raspberry Pi 4. Check out my wiring video in part of the series, at about the 14:26 where I show it. th-cam.com/video/OVVrwAItSUU/w-d-xo.html
I have been planning a follow up to go into more detail on the connections but haven't gotten around to it yet.
do you still plan to show how to do the coding (configuration) part?@@GregsMakerCorner
Do you need to make any firmware changes to use the canbus?
Yeah, for the way I set it up you need to compile the brt skr pico to run in Canbus bridge mode.
I'd love to install one, for easier maintenance, but there's no pin for the klicky probe, and mu 2 sequines led, sadly
Which mount did you print? I can find them for modded toolheads but not for the standard mini afterburner, I'm guessing I'm missing something obvious?
Did you use the EBB with the MAX31865 or without? Is the MAX31865 a worthwhile upgrade for the few extra dollars?
I don’t use the one with. I don’t think it’s needed unless you are running a high sensitivity thermistor like a pt100. For what most of us print, it’s probably overkill. Best of luck!!