Code requires 3" clear between bar and earth when concrete is cast against earth. There is an exception for concrete slabs on grade but does apply to the footings. Your recommendation of 1" clear of footing bottom bar to soil is incorrect.
That wiremesh is mainly to minimize cracking in the concrete slab that is caused by contraction and expansion, mostly used in outdoor slabs, not intended to increase the load bearing.
Good to know, but would you say that this a good tutorial and does it look did he do a good job here? I liked that he mentioned checking your building codes. That's something I never hear in these how-to(ish) videos.
Yes. I would say a good tutorial, he mentioned about the anchor that needs to conform to the building code. The spacing is usually every 1 meter' of the concrete slab. 1) He forget to mention AND show the plastic sheet above the sub grade, so that the audience may not be aware of it. This plastic sheet is to separate the the sub grade/soil and the concrete. If you put a plastic sheet (made of LDPE or recycle plastic), when the curing process is takeing place, the water in the concrete won't seep into the soil. 2) He forget to mention about the curing. This step as important as the preparation. The curing is the process or operation which controls the loss of moisture from concrete after it has been placed in position. You can put a plastic sheet/burlap on top of the concrete less than 1 hour after it and maintain the moisture by spraying it with water for as long as 10 days. This will make sure the hydration process of the concrete will be uniform from the bottom and top of the slab 3) Make sure don't put too much water in the concrete mix, if you order the concrete from ready mix factory, request a slump specification between 8-12 cm for easy work-ability. That's all I can share with you right now.
@@Noeman2009 Spraying with water is an outdated technique, and covering with burlap/straw dates back to the invention of concrete. Now we use a special spray cure to control moisture, and other methods.
tienglongmy yea, you are right but it still works. If this is for yourself, why bother buying a five gallon bucket of retarder, if you can simply give it a little shower for several days no big deal. If your a contractor, that’s different.
This shit is easy. Journey men rodbuster and the things he is talking about if chairs they will hold the rebar 2 inches off the ground and the boards are called forms. The measurement from the form is called the endo. We use pliers and a reel of wire on our belts to tie.
The chairs are called dobies (chairs are for decks) and the space from form to bar, or dirt to bar is called clearance, endo is where you want end of bar to be, done it a couple of times in my 30yrs.
I had the same question. Was wondering if I could use chunks of wood. I see your comment is 6 months old. This guy obviously isn’t good with giving an answer.
I am a seller on Amazon selling electric rebar bender and cutter. Looking for a reviewer in USA for my product. Free sample will be provided. Would you wanna try?
I am not the person who made the video but For a 4 inch slab I would recommend #4 bars each direction @18 inches on center I believe that is the code minimum for shrinkage.
Nice, I like the threshold detail. Smart!
Code requires 3" clear between bar and earth when concrete is cast against earth. There is an exception for concrete slabs on grade but does apply to the footings. Your recommendation of 1" clear of footing bottom bar to soil is incorrect.
Awesome planning for the door threshold!
Very well done video.
Thank you.
That wiremesh is mainly to minimize cracking in the concrete slab that is caused by contraction and expansion, mostly used in outdoor slabs, not intended to increase the load bearing.
Good to know, but would you say that this a good tutorial and does it look did he do a good job here? I liked that he mentioned checking your building codes. That's something I never hear in these how-to(ish) videos.
Yes. I would say a good tutorial, he mentioned about the anchor that needs to conform to the building code. The spacing is usually every 1 meter' of the concrete slab. 1) He forget to mention AND show the plastic sheet above the sub grade, so that the audience may not be aware of it. This plastic sheet is to separate the the sub grade/soil and the concrete. If you put a plastic sheet (made of LDPE or recycle plastic), when the curing process is takeing place, the water in the concrete won't seep into the soil. 2) He forget to mention about the curing. This step as important as the preparation. The curing is the process or operation which controls the loss of moisture from concrete after it has been placed in position. You can put a plastic sheet/burlap on top of the concrete less than 1 hour after it and maintain the moisture by spraying it with water for as long as 10 days. This will make sure the hydration process of the concrete will be uniform from the bottom and top of the slab 3) Make sure don't put too much water in the concrete mix, if you order the concrete from ready mix factory, request a slump specification between 8-12 cm for easy work-ability. That's all I can share with you right now.
That's a lot! Thank you very much.
@@Noeman2009 Spraying with water is an outdated technique, and covering with burlap/straw dates back to the invention of concrete. Now we use a special spray cure to control moisture, and other methods.
tienglongmy yea, you are right but it still works. If this is for yourself, why bother buying a five gallon bucket of retarder, if you can simply give it a little shower for several days no big deal. If your a contractor, that’s different.
excellent video
i like this guy of pooting rebar
Do you have to put footers in
good video
This shit is easy. Journey men rodbuster and the things he is talking about if chairs they will hold the rebar 2 inches off the ground and the boards are called forms. The measurement from the form is called the endo. We use pliers and a reel of wire on our belts to tie.
The chairs are called dobies (chairs are for decks) and the space from form to bar, or dirt to bar is called clearance, endo is where you want end of bar to be, done it a couple of times in my 30yrs.
What do u call that steel hook u have there
How strong is the metal
though the area I Am pouring is smaller, 4 x 8.to go thicker how often do I repeat research in a base slab 18" thick.
Can dobies be made out of any material? I'm hoping to make a below grade cinder block shell for a pond liner.
I had the same question. Was wondering if I could use chunks of wood. I see your comment is 6 months old. This guy obviously isn’t good with giving an answer.
How much do you charge for squer feet with metrial included am going to start a job and i want to know how to quote
where did you get the yellow hangers for the wet set anchors?
I am a seller on Amazon selling electric rebar bender and cutter. Looking for a reviewer in USA for my product. Free sample will be provided. Would you wanna try?
You are responding to a comment from three years ago. He probably figured it out by now
@@micahasher7600 He probably never figures it out >.< ! Do you wanna try to review the product for me?
@@karinelee5805 I want to try and review your products, from california.
what is the depth for the reinforcing bars if i have 6" concrete?
1.5" to 2" deep no more or it weakens the effect
Cast against bare earth it's 3 inches clear from dirt to bottom of bar, unless otherwise noted.
Can you use small chunk of wood to raise the rebar?
You could use wood but I would not recommend it it will rot and cause a cavity which will be a weak spot for your concrete to break or crack
You are a pro.
جميل
You should be using plastic chairs to elevate your rebar grid. Lifting with a rake is just dumb
Nasty stuff
Your other video said to keep the rebar toward the bottom because thats where the tension is
HI, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO. WHAT IS THE THICKNESS OF THE REBAR.
I am not the person who made the video but For a 4 inch slab I would recommend #4 bars each direction @18 inches on center I believe that is the code minimum for shrinkage.
I’d think 3/8” Rebar should’ve been used, not wire?? Any thoughts???
Your rebars should run closer to the forms than that
You titled this "Rebar grid for concrete slab" but you did not use rebar .. you used wire mesh .. misleading!
bar should be at MINIMUM 3" from the ground
it depends i've blocked up many slabs when it called for 2 inch dobie but generally you are correct for the most part
typically I would have grade beam rebars 3” from the ground and slab rebars 1” from the ground
Nice video but the gloves and the shorts 😐