when you have tools and time, nothings really hard... when you have the right tools with the time management when everything goes to plan, it's easy... when you have the previous with the knowledge on how to do everything then it's super easy. Welcome to the 21st century, where you can look on youtube for almost any skill and they can help you like a refresher course... yes it can feel demeaning at times and sometimes feels like an insult, but... who has time to keep up with modern methods when others can share their knowledge freely?
I am here because after viewing different channels that came up first, no one explained the rebar part of the process! Because you guys explained it, I subscribed 😊
i would look into the rebar u have sticking into the ground rusting overtime, and have it travel up into the concrete. Rust in concrete can cause deterioration.
I'm in the process of putting in a grain bin foundation. I really like having a chopsaw right next to the rebar. Just slam the handle and go. Going to use about 130 20' sticks of #4.
Ha ha. This was our first time. Not perfect by any means but then we were not required to have any rebar so it’s better than not having any 😁. Thanks for watching!! Terry
I want to say thank you guy for your video Has help me a lot I buy my first bobcat And watching your videos I learned a lot thank you ... Now I make money and thank for your videos Now hope to leard how to do footings Ray from SC
As a retired electrician I've always wondered why people didn't just use a 1/2" EMT bender for bending conduit. I've collected a half dozen of them over the years. Hopefully people will pick up on this obvious "hack"!
Love this song and also love watching this video a lot learn something new everytime but how do you level the hole where you pour the concrete sorry I’m a big rookie I just do landscaping but want to learn how to do this for a big shed / garage I want to build or a small house cheers
First off we are not experts. However we do get the job done 😁. We used a Bosch transit which basically sends out a laser at what ever level you set the transmitter at and then you have a receiver that is mounted on a pole with basically a ruler/ measure on it. For us we started at the lowest point of our footings and then dug everything else to that level. If you have to much of a drop in elevation then you may want to have a step down in your foundation. It seems very complicated but its really not. You just have to think things through. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and for the kind words!! Terry
Cool 😎 thanks for the feedback!! I have actually been thinking about a small self storage business on one corner of our property. Kind of a little extra retirement income. You’re opinion, yes or no? Thanks for watching and commenting!! It helps us grow this channel!! Terry
Enjoy your videos guys, but a good practice is never pound rebar into the ground. It will rust, wick moisture into your footing, spall and crack your concrete. As a rule I only use plastic or cement dobies as stand-offs.
Good point. Its what everyone here said to do. Then we start find out about the rust thing later. That's life. AS mentioned in a previous post- First off we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :) Terry
@@ForestToFarm Hi Guys. Here is a great video on rebar and rust. I'm always learning too. Happy to pass this on. th-cam.com/video/PLF18H9JGHs/w-d-xo.html Keep posting! Thank you! Paul
I like your video. I wish we had enough clay in our soil to pour footers without forms. One thing to consider is not driving the vertical rebar into the soil. I worry about it carrying rot throughout the rest of the rebar.
Thanks. The grade stake rebar is not attached to the structural rebar. It’s been done this way for ages. Lots of controversy over it. Every contractor I know does it this way. Thanks for watching!! Terry
@@scottpenman7968 probably a good idea. When I do another footer I will likely form the footer. If I go the grade stake route I will use the fiberglass type. Terry
Where I am inspector requires me to separate any rebar to ground contact with foam, plastic or duct tape. Just a thought if you can do this as you go?? Will save you tons of time if you get red tagged by inspector later. Hope this helps
I put a finish nail into a 3/4 by 3/4 stick, with a little upslope to keep the bar from falling off. I drive the stake in till the nail is at the height I want. Just lay the rebar on the nail. As you pour, just twist the stake 90 deg. and pull it out. Reuse on the next pour. For 12 inch rolled edges of slabs. I put a nail at 2 inches high and another on the other side of the stick at 8 inches high. (90 deg twist and it pulls out. No chairs, no wire tying
Thanks guys. Been watching some videos to do my own dry pour but no one mentions the rebar and foundational footing afterwards and I have no idea about that part. This was good to see and I hope to see more. Like after your slab, what do we do now to begin building up. How do I secure my foundation and know that its stable...what needs to happen? I'm super new. Thanks for the video. 🙏
Your welcome. Thanks for watching! First I should say we are no experts but we do get the job done. We should be building around the first of June. I hope it helps! Good luck! Terry
Hi Terry - Really excited to see this progress! - We’re actually not too far behind you guys, so this episode is very well timed (btw, this is John, I emailed you a while back since were also in the upstate - we've also decided to document the build on YT)
Nice video guys, in respect to the rebar stakes, won't the direct contact with the ground corrode them and speedup possible spalding of the concrete foundation. I've seen some builders use small concrete blocks to hold the rebar off the ground to achieve the desired clearance, this should hopefully ensure the concrete is sealed from the elements in the ground. Best
I have heard all kinds of concerns. All the local long time contractors I have talked to have done it our way for many many years without a single issue. We are not concerned in the slightest. Terry
@@ForestToFarm it won’t affect right away but footing or foundation rebar covering should be 3in, this isn’t me or everyone else saying it it’s ASTM code saying this. You’re essentially compromising utility life of your structure
@@luisdelcid7051 here in Missouri code has changed . They now allow rebar to make contact with dirt like the grade stakes . There was no evidence to back up the theory that the rebar would rust and cause structural problems . They study found there was not enough oxygen down at that point to cause rust concerns . Grade stakes were used by old timers then it stopped for about a decade and now it’s acceptable again
Are the pieces of rebar that are stuck in the ground (kinda like "rebar post") just stuck down in the dirt, or are is there concrete holding them (like a wooden post with concrete)?
Looks good. I'd like to see those stepped footers!! My lot slopes 3 different directions and I'll have to either use steps all the way around or build everything up! if you have a lot of rebar to cut...I'd suggest a rebar cutter instead of the grinding wheel.
It was not there to support the rebar. It was there to give us a way to gauge how deep the concrete was while pouting. Local codes can vary so if someone in your area is against it they can say you can not do it despite what the code book might say. For instance in out area the county required all smoke detectors to be on an arc-fault breaker while the city said they could not be on one lol. It took 10 years before the city admitted that the county was correct and the city finally changed their rules. Around here everyone I have talked to used rebar as we did. 😁 Terry
@@ForestToFarm Don't see a problem with what you did. You did not tie to the other rebar. You did connect the rebar seat to one, but the rebar seat is a non-corrosive metal and would not carry the rust to the other rebar. So, perfectly fine IMO and a great idea about the conduit bender!
When you put the vertical reinforcing bars in at 24" or 48" oc is there every any issues with them not aligning with the block cores and what would you do then?
First off we are rookies at this. They do not set perfectly centered. That bothered me for quite some time lol. Then after talking with several people who do this stuff daily who all said unless its required they just drop them in and let them fall as they will. Not my ideal choice for doing things but they will still be within the concrete fill and add lots of support/strength to the overall wall. I am like you in thinking’ there should be a better way but I have yet to discover it. We did look down each cavity and picked the best position for each location. There’s lots going on in those holes so its not as big an issue as you would think once you start doing it. Hope this helps and good luck! Thanks for watching! Terry
If web in middle of block Interferes with rebar, you can just knock the web out of block. You can also bend the rebar at very top surface of footing 90 degrees (parallel to footing surface) and then bend 90 degrees back up (vertical thru cell opening). If you do the latter you will need to chip a small piece off bottom of web on first block for rebar to clear where the rebar is bent 90 degrees parallel to the footing top surface and first block sets on footing
If you look on TH-cam many professionals do it. Also most every building contractor I know does this same thing. We have rebar pins marking some if our property line. They are 50 plus years old and still looking good. Personally I am not concerned. Even if they rot away its just a small 1/2” hole in the footer. People drill larger holes than that often for pipes, electrical and other stuff without concern. Terry
@@ForestToFarm The cold in Massachusset is strong and I have noticed that all the foundation of the basement is put sand before the concrete and they wanted to know if the footings should also be sand ???
Its what we had available. Code did not require us to install rebar. We just did it for extra protection or overkill. However I am pretty sure that radius is a minimum limit. You can have a larger radius and it happens all the time. Bay windows come to mind. Also when there is a slight turn down in the footings. I am no expert so don’t quote me on this. 😁 Terry
For those of you bringing up the concern of rebar used as grade pins, we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :) They are 50 plus years old. A study that I have yet to be able to locate states that they found that rebar was expected to last 413 years before rusting out completely in a foundation situation such as we have here. :) We are no experts but from our experience there is little concern here. I could see the potential of rebar rusting out much faster in areas or states where the soil composition is such that it induces rust at a much faster rate but I can not be sure either way. Further more every contractor associated with concrete in our area that we have talked to about this does exactly what we did or similar. Those chairs are sold for exactly what we used them for as well.
Cocrete 101 I suppose. The Building Code sets the requirement not the tradesman. I have heard this is the way some areas of the country roll . I hear in rural Tennessee folks don’t need a permit to construct so they do as they see fit. In my neck of the woods in SoCal, you can’t pee without a permit. Lol.
Think a 44 y/o mom could do this herself for a 4'x3' pond???😬🤯 The main thing I'm trying to figure out is how to "float" the bars since having any of it exposed to the ground causes oxidation and compromises the stucture.
They make chairs similar to what we used that are made of plastic. I don’t know your strength and determination. My sister could accomplish this while my wife would struggle severely before failure. My wife is the most determined woman you will meet and the most responsible dedicated Person I know but she lacks mechanical skills on that level plain and simple. I would buy one stick of rebar. Not gonna break the bank. Then try to bend a 90 degree angle in it at what ever length you need plus enough for the overlap you plan to have. You will know then if you can accomplish the hardest task. Look up over TH-cam videos that are about “bending rebar’. Some people use other methods that are more doable if you have less strength I would think like drilling a hole into a board and running the rebar through the hole and using it as a bender. You may be a physically strong woman as many are these days. If so a conventional bender may work for you but they are costly. I feel like if you actually think you can do something and you have skills and diy anyway you probably can do this. Terry
I spent way too long searching for a perfect bending setup seeing how damn hard it looked to bend #4 rebar! I went out and used a magnet on my old 1/2" bender to make sure it was steel and not the aluminum, snapped it on and bent a 1/2" rebar like it was nothing! I would say it is about like bending 3/4" EMT as far as the 'pull' effort needed but it has been working outstanding. Then I just saw your video and agree, way too many acting like it's impossible without that four foot long $750 bender! NOT!
😁. I have heard that many times. In this area it has always been done by most contractors and still is being done. Personally I think using fiberglass rebar for pins would be a better choice for grade stakes. I did not know about them prior to this project. Thanks for watching!! Terry
To keep our wimpy hands soft and supple? Honestly we have went most of our life beating our hands and body to death working construction and the like. We have decided to do what we can to reduce the wear and tear and damage to our bodies whenever possible. Terry
Just the thin .05 " thick wheels on a grinder. I use 4 to 5 inches on my metabo HPT (hitachi) battery powered grinder to do plenty of damage. Toggle switch helps a lot. & A full on plug in metabo with 6 inch wheels totally rips!
Hey good job, but I must say Saturday is the Sabbath of the lord God our maker, and he asks that we rest on that day ( the 7th) day he says in Exodus 20 and verse 11 and also in John 14 and verse 15 he says if we love him we should keep his commandments. Also he promises that those who obey him will have right to the tree of life upon Jesus second return, friends Jesus says that he wants none of us to perish but rather we all come to repentance and have everlasting life. He says we should seek him now while he can be found and call upon him while he is near. God bless you all I'm here from the church that seeks to keeps all God's commands including the one most of the modern religion seek to obliterate the seventh day Sabbath. Love you guys! And remember now John 14 and verse 15.
I don’t want to mislead you. I am not sure what the code says on this. It was not required in our area. We just like to overbuild when possible. However the space was determined by the preset distance bent into those rebar chairs we installed. Thanks for watching!! Terry
Been hearing that here a few times now. As mentioned in a previous comment- First off we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :) The local “pros” we talked with all said this is the way they have always done it. I have no clue but honestly in hindsight it probably not the best idea. Although its only touching the soil where we put the pins for concrete depth. Its not touching the rebar support runs. In that case should those pins rust over time its basically no different than drilling holes in concrete which is done all the time without concern within reason of course. One hole every 6 foot in the massive footers we poured hardly seems concerning. Terry
You should dobbies 3x3 concrete blocks with tie wire on them. That way no steel ever touches dirt. Water will follow that rebar then the wire to the footing rebar and within 20 years the rebar will blow out the concrete. Starting as a little crack which will let more water in and will completely damage the structural foundation. I see this all the time in Mexico where I vacation. A simple change here will make a world of difference. These wire frames work great on floors holding rebar off of wood/steel forms.
@@toddseely8371 I commented about a study on this subject some where in these comments. It tells a different story but I can not confirm either way.Thanks for the advice! Terry
The rebar in the ground are grade stakes. They are not touching the structural rebar. This is the way everyone here does it. Been that way forever. I have a friend who works for a huge construction company. He is over the concrete division. They always do this. Read through the comments. There are many discussions about it. I have no concerns. Its gonna work because it has always worked here. :) Terry
Lots of people oppose doing it from what I hear. There have been studies about it and they said in something like 430 something years it could be a problem. I think where that comes from is places along the ocean where the soil is salty. Rust would possibly be an issue there. Here every contractor I talk to says they use rebar so at least here it seems to work out OK. Terry
Worse case lets say those rebar stakes rust out. Then we have a half on hole in our roughly 20”x9” to 12” deep footers. Not gonna be an issue. People drill holes in concrete all the time without issue. Terry
Oh. Just saw the part about you wanting to tie your rebar to it. We used it for grade steaks. It was not connected directly to the rebar itself. Just the chairs in a couple of places. I honestly would not suggest hooking directly to the rebar. Terry
Rebar is real easy when your working with #3 bars I woulda just bent them under my foot and slammed em in .. try working with 30 ft #11s .... and tell me how easy rebar is lol
did they called this reinforced foundation ? for this reason many houses has a cracks on the basement walls , footage should reinforced better with more rebars .
In the 80's I used to build block walls. No rebar or metal is suppose to touch the ground. The metal will start to rust & get into the footing and weaken the cement to the point it fails. Yes it will take years but nevertheless l wouldn't want to be around when it happens.
Then probably 90% or more of the homes in this area of many many McMansions will be falling over soon because pretty much every builder/ concrete guy I know, of which there are many, does it this way. 😁 Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. Oh yeah and we have a good many property pins around our very cut up piece of land and a good many are actually rebar and of them some are about 1/4”. They have been in the ground for over 50 years and potentially much longer as its been that long since it was last surveyed. We even have an old car axel for a corner pin lol 😂. They are still in great shape being exposed all these years. 😁 Terry
Lol 😂. Yeah we are no experts and did little studying on the subject. I am sure its stronger for our efforts. Thanks for the respectful and slightly humorous comment!! So many keyboard warriors out there these days looking to bash you. I actually enjoy constructive criticism such as you gave. Thanks for watching!! Terry
No problem. We got it done but not necessarily the professional way. We tried to keep it simple. Plus we used what we had to bend it. Thanks for watching! Terry
I can not begin to tell you how many professionals I know that do this every job. I see your point and its a valid point but those rods are in the ground and not touching the rebar system. They were just used to keep the footings somewhat level while pouring concrete. Thanks for watching!! Terry
Was this inspected? The chairs that you used are metal against earth that will corrode and transfer that corrosion up to the reinforcement. So will the pieces of bar that were hammered into the soil. Should have used concrete Dobie blocks or plastic chairs to support the reinforcement.
Those chairs are designed for use exactly as used. The rebar grade stakes are used in our area by most everyone we talked with in the construction world and not one time has anyone had an issue. I am talking many of these people have been building for 30 and 40 years plus. We have no concerns about it. :) Besides there is way too much plastic in our world already. :) Terry
@@ForestToFarm where are you based at, I’m in Tennessee and i am 20 I’ve been doing footing for about three years for my brothers company I really like the videos though keep it up
No problem ha ha. This channel is not always about advice. We document what we do and how we do it. There are plenty of ways to get it done. We just show what works for us. The local inspectors are always telling us what we did was overkill. Must be doing something right hey? Thanks for watching! By the way we had Mexicans show up to do our footers and then form and pour the crawlspace walls. Guess what? The footers looked like bananas. No kidding and were out of square by inches. We ran them off and had to dig out the footers with a shovel to fix the huge mess they made. What a nightmare. Cost us lots of time and a bit of money to boot. On the flip side at our current residence we had a Mexican crew put in a monolithic slab and then a driveway and they did a top notch job. Race has zero to do with a mans performance. Integrity, respect, intelligence (not education but natural ability) , honesty and just a deep hearts desire to do whats right for those whom you serve goes a very long way. I see good and bad in all races. No one race dominates these days. Been around construction since I was a small child. I have seen a lot from all walks of life. Either you got it or you don’t. Terry
Sorry but this is what not to do. All rebars MUST be embedded in concrete. You are exposing the entire grid to rust with those metal sticks "grounded" to the soil
Do you think the staked rebars rusts will travel to the structural rebar that quick? Like how much of a drawback do you think it’ll be to the structure? I’m curious just because the name of the game is pros and cons. I see the pro which is grounding your homes footer easy, and I see a con but I don’t know to what degree
Also, by no means is this even bad practice just in the game you always wanna know the good, the bad, and what you should be aware of! I see the purpose of the staked rebar, and i also know exposed rebar will get rust, but will that staked rebar really be a catalyst or something that Just rust the house from the ground up? Like how quickly would the process even happen (rebar will rest even in concrete), but is it really that much quicker?
@@Someonesgottabuildit I an planning a slab on grade this summer but it will be frost protected, meaning I can't use the ufer ground method since there will be insulation between soil and concrete (code does not allow). General guideline are Rebars must be surrounded with concrete, about 3 inches but not always possible.
@@Someonesgottabuildit theres no need to put skates, there are easy ways to get around that method. I will be using plastic chairs (from CV plastics). Then I will bend some rebars in a shape to allow the structure to stay in place and add reinforcements in the footing area of the monolithic slab
Not gonna bust your balls over the job you did, you're amateurs, but for all practical purposes you never pound bar into the soil then cover it with mud. Just because all the locals do it and been doing it that way for years doesn't make it right. Use concrete spacer block or more commonly known as dobies. Just a fyi, nice job though, precutting your tie wire was cute.
First off we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :) According to two pros (not related or working together) around here who are life long concrete guys doing multi-million dollar jobs on a regular basis they say they have done this since they started many years ago. They said this argument has been around for ages. One went to multiple courses on concrete. Apparently Duke University did a study some years ago and determined that in a worse case scenario it would take approximately 413 years for the rebar to rust out in a slab stake situation such as we have done. Now if we had tied those stakes to our rebar in the footers we may start having problems at 413 years from now. However they do not connect with the exception of the chairs in a few places intersecting with a couple of the stakes. So even if the rebar were to rust out tomorrow or 413 years from now it would basically be like drilling a 1/2 hole every 6 feet on our footers under the walls. Those footers range from 19" to 24" wide and anywhere from 8" at the very minimum to 24 " deep. Those holes would have zero effect on the performance of our footers. Not saying they will not rust but the rust will not be a problem in our situation. Again if you tied the stakes to the rebar in the footers then some time in the future it may be a problem but we did not do that for the very reason of rust concerns. One of the two guys I talked with recently said the rebar rust argument started when people were letting rebar extend past the footers into the surrounding soil. Then as the rebar rusted it worked its way horizontally into the footers and water was able to travel horizontally into the footers and make its way around the footers which I see as a very possible problem but its nothing near what we have here. Those arguments are old as dirt. :) I guess time will tell but I for one will not be loosing sleep over it. :) Terry
@@roddiener I do not disagree with you there. We are rookies and I always take the best rout when I am aware of such lol. Hindsight I would avoid it if I felt there may be issues with doing it like we did. Our intention is to do the best job possible. I am sure we will lack perfection in more than one area of construction though. :) Terry
I agree totally and nothing used as actual “ rebar” touched the ground. However we did use some of the same stock as grade stakes to help keep the footers level while pouring concrete. Its done all the time by pretty much every builder I know in this area and from what I have seen all across the country. 😁 Thanks for watching! Terry
I see it all the time on TH-cam in other parts of the country. Also pretty much every builder I know in this area does grade stakes this way. They were not part of or connected to the rebar system. They were grade stakes helping you keep the concrete pour level. Thanks for watching! Terry
LOL USING A CONDUIT BENDER FOR R-BAR WRONG WRONG WRONG, YOUR R BAR LAPS R A JOKE 32 INCHES MINIMUM AND THOSE RBAR STAKES WILL SUCK MOISTURE RIGHT UP INTO THAT HOR AND VERTS AND RUSAT THAT SHIT TO NOTHING BUT TURDS IN A WEEK!
Every contractor I know does it this way. Its not touching the actual structural rebar. So even if it does rust out its gonna be a 1/2” hole in a 24” wide 12” to 18” deep concrete footer. People drill much larger holes than that in concrete without concern. With that said if a person were to be concerned about rust a better choice might be the fiberglass rebar for grade stakes. 😁 Terry
Agreed!! I spent most of my life helping other trades partly as friend and partly to gain info on their trade. Jack of all trades, master of one ha ha. Thanks for watching! Terry
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when you have tools and time, nothings really hard... when you have the right tools with the time management when everything goes to plan, it's easy... when you have the previous with the knowledge on how to do everything then it's super easy. Welcome to the 21st century, where you can look on youtube for almost any skill and they can help you like a refresher course... yes it can feel demeaning at times and sometimes feels like an insult, but... who has time to keep up with modern methods when others can share their knowledge freely?
Just take it one step at a time and don't give up. :)
Terry
That's true
Thank you for shooting this video. I really appreciate it
Glad to help and thanks for watching!!
Terry
An ol head and a young brain is probably the best combo for educational videos.
Thanks!
Terry
I am here because after viewing different channels that came up first, no one explained the rebar part of the process! Because you guys explained it, I subscribed 😊
Jackpot! 😊Thanks for subscribing!!
Glad to be of help.
Terry
i would look into the rebar u have sticking into the ground rusting overtime, and have it travel up into the concrete. Rust in concrete can cause deterioration.
Appreciate the concern 😁
Terry
Thanks this was the best 👌🏿 👍🏾 I've seen on the use of the rebar chair
You’re welcome and thanks for watching!!
Terry
I'm in the process of putting in a grain bin foundation. I really like having a chopsaw right next to the rebar. Just slam the handle and go. Going to use about 130 20' sticks of #4.
Yeah a chop saw would get it done quick. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Great, informative video guys! Thanks.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Terry
Well done guys. Greetings from Perth West Australia. Keep dry... Cheers, Frank.
Thanks!!
Terry
Australia 🇦🇺is hurting economically doing a covid 19 lockdown...unfortunately we must all keep rowing...not hide in a safe room expecting door dash.
Dope video....My guys would lose there minds if we did it this way 😂... This was the way I pretty much was taught...💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Ha ha. This was our first time. Not perfect by any means but then we were not required to have any rebar so it’s better than not having any 😁. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
I want to say thank you guy for your video
Has help me a lot
I buy my first bobcat And watching your videos I learned a lot thank you ...
Now I make money and thank for your videos
Now hope to leard how to do footings
Ray from SC
Great! Good luck with your project!!
Terry
As a retired electrician I've always wondered why people didn't just use a 1/2" EMT bender for bending conduit. I've collected a half dozen of them over the years. Hopefully people will pick up on this obvious "hack"!
It was the first thing I thought when I needed to bend rebar haha. I am always looking for a way to save money 💰.
Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Well done and looking forward to your build. Love how you and Brian take time to explain things. Very helpful indeed.
Thanks Dean!! Finally getting the construction process going!
Terry
Your video was nicely shot. Good video.
Thanks!
Terry
Just bought myself a second hand tense bender/cutter yesterday and now this pops up in my feed
It will likely make the job easier. 😁 Good luck and thanks for watching!!
Terry
Love this song and also love watching this video a lot learn something new everytime but how do you level the hole where you pour the concrete sorry I’m a big rookie I just do landscaping but want to learn how to do this for a big shed / garage I want to build or a small house cheers
First off we are not experts. However we do get the job done 😁. We used a Bosch transit which basically sends out a laser at what ever level you set the transmitter at and then you have a receiver that is mounted on a pole with basically a ruler/ measure on it. For us we started at the lowest point of our footings and then dug everything else to that level. If you have to much of a drop in elevation then you may want to have a step down in your foundation. It seems very complicated but its really not. You just have to think things through. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and for the kind words!!
Terry
You made a awesome video we have to lay down #5 rebar for our new business.
Cool 😎 thanks for the feedback!! I have actually been thinking about a small self storage business on one corner of our property. Kind of a little extra retirement income. You’re opinion, yes or no? Thanks for watching and commenting!! It helps us grow this channel!!
Terry
Great work, it gave a good idea what is involved and was really useful!
Thanks ! Glad to help!
Terry
Enjoy your videos guys, but a good practice is never pound rebar into the ground. It will rust, wick moisture into your footing, spall and crack your concrete. As a rule I only use plastic or cement dobies as stand-offs.
Good point. Its what everyone here said to do. Then we start find out about the rust thing later. That's life.
AS mentioned in a previous post- First off we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :)
Terry
@@ForestToFarm Hi Guys. Here is a great video on rebar and rust. I'm always learning too. Happy to pass this on. th-cam.com/video/PLF18H9JGHs/w-d-xo.html Keep posting! Thank you! Paul
@@THEWRENCH343 Will do Thanks!! Amd your welcome.
Terry
I like your video. I wish we had enough clay in our soil to pour footers without forms. One thing to consider is not driving the vertical rebar into the soil. I worry about it carrying rot throughout the rest of the rebar.
Thanks. The grade stake rebar is not attached to the structural rebar. It’s been done this way for ages. Lots of controversy over it. Every contractor I know does it this way.
Thanks for watching!!
Terry
@@ForestToFarm I understand your point. I choose to avoid it.
@@scottpenman7968 probably a good idea. When I do another footer I will likely form the footer. If I go the grade stake route I will use the fiberglass type.
Terry
Where I am inspector requires me to separate any rebar to ground contact with foam, plastic or duct tape. Just a thought if you can do this as you go?? Will save you tons of time if you get red tagged by inspector later.
Hope this helps
They don’t care here. 😁
Not a bad idea though. Thanks!
Terry
Hi, can I use silicon or even cement for holding down rebars drilled into a bedrock before concrete footing? Thanks
Wish I knew for sure. Best to ask a pro. Thanks for watching!! Repeat😁
Terry
@@ForestToFarm ok, thanks
I put a finish nail into a 3/4 by 3/4 stick, with a little upslope to keep the bar from falling off. I drive the stake in till the nail is at the height I want. Just lay the rebar on the nail. As you pour, just twist the stake 90 deg. and pull it out. Reuse on the next pour. For 12 inch rolled edges of slabs. I put a nail at 2 inches high and another on the other side of the stick at 8 inches high. (90 deg twist and it pulls out. No chairs, no wire tying
Sounds like a good plan.
Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Thanks guys. Been watching some videos to do my own dry pour but no one mentions the rebar and foundational footing afterwards and I have no idea about that part. This was good to see and I hope to see more. Like after your slab, what do we do now to begin building up. How do I secure my foundation and know that its stable...what needs to happen? I'm super new. Thanks for the video. 🙏
Your welcome. Thanks for watching! First I should say we are no experts but we do get the job done. We should be building around the first of June. I hope it helps! Good luck!
Terry
@@ForestToFarm Awesome can't wait. I'll be watching.
Rebar is a good job for DIYers. And nobody cares as much about doing it well as the homeowner.
Agreed. Rebar was really quite easy. We love doing our own work. Just wish there was more time in a day lol.
Terry
Hi Terry - Really excited to see this progress! - We’re actually not too far behind you guys, so this episode is very well timed (btw, this is John, I emailed you a while back since were also in the upstate - we've also decided to document the build on YT)
Thank you. Good luck on your project. What’s the channel?
Terry
@@ForestToFarm Thanks! We're right here: th-cam.com/channels/P2H0fwEAG8PSUieAnhoKGw.html
Up to our knees in that familiar red clay.
The conduit bender works for #4 just fine. Any bigger starts to get really tough. You'll be crazy buff if you do it every day. 😂
Ha it gets the job done. I love being able to save a few bucks when possible.
Thanks for watching!
Terry
I have never seen a conduit bender used for rebar, I take it that it works well and doesn't damage the head?
Ha ha yeah we make do with what we have sometimes. It worked very well. Bender appears to be fine. Thanks for watching!
Terry
What are the spacers you used actually called.
Rebar chairs. Thanks for the watching!!
Terry
Thank you very much, this helped me a lot
You’re welcome! Glad to help!! We are no experts but we get the job done 😁.
Terry
Nice video guys, in respect to the rebar stakes, won't the direct contact with the ground corrode them and speedup possible spalding of the concrete foundation. I've seen some builders use small concrete blocks to hold the rebar off the ground to achieve the desired clearance, this should hopefully ensure the concrete is sealed from the elements in the ground. Best
I have heard all kinds of concerns. All the local long time contractors I have talked to have done it our way for many many years without a single issue. We are not concerned in the slightest.
Terry
@@ForestToFarm cheers , it should be fine 🙂
@@ForestToFarm it won’t affect right away but footing or foundation rebar covering should be 3in, this isn’t me or everyone else saying it it’s ASTM code saying this. You’re essentially compromising utility life of your structure
@@luisdelcid7051 here in Missouri code has changed . They now allow rebar to make contact with dirt like the grade stakes . There was no evidence to back up the theory that the rebar would rust and cause structural problems . They study found there was not enough oxygen down at that point to cause rust concerns . Grade stakes were used by old timers then it stopped for about a decade and now it’s acceptable again
@@dtm7909 Still an inferior construction method
Are the pieces of rebar that are stuck in the ground (kinda like "rebar post") just stuck down in the dirt, or are is there concrete holding them (like a wooden post with concrete)?
We drove them into the dirt. Its very solid red clay. Worked out great for us.
Terry
Great foe encourageing. Thanks
Your welcome!
Terry
what are those little wire cage/pillar/holder things you rested the rebar onto actually called?
Rebar “chairs” is what I know them by. Ours were metal but they make others that are plastic. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
dobies
best to use concrete dobies, bond is better than plastic
Looks good. I'd like to see those stepped footers!! My lot slopes 3 different directions and I'll have to either use steps all the way around or build everything up!
if you have a lot of rebar to cut...I'd suggest a rebar cutter instead of the grinding wheel.
Thanks!! Sounds like a mess lol. Yeah a cutter would be great.
Terry
I didn't know you could bent it with a pipe bended. Thanks!
We are always looking for ways to save a buck! :)
Quick question if my footer is 1 ft wide by 10 ft long and 1ft deep how many layers of rebar is needed?
Sorry we are by no means experts on this subject. We did this as overkill. It was not required. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Terry
I think our code here will not allow rebar driven in the ground to support the rebar. The rebar will rust and cause the concrete to crack.
It was not there to support the rebar. It was there to give us a way to gauge how deep the concrete was while pouting. Local codes can vary so if someone in your area is against it they can say you can not do it despite what the code book might say. For instance in out area the county required all smoke detectors to be on an arc-fault breaker while the city said they could not be on one lol. It took 10 years before the city admitted that the county was correct and the city finally changed their rules. Around here everyone I have talked to used rebar as we did. 😁
Terry
@@ForestToFarm Don't see a problem with what you did. You did not tie to the other rebar. You did connect the rebar seat to one, but the rebar seat is a non-corrosive metal and would not carry the rust to the other rebar. So, perfectly fine IMO and a great idea about the conduit bender!
@@steveprivitor239 Thanks and Thanks!
Terry
When you put the vertical reinforcing bars in at 24" or 48" oc is there every any issues with them not aligning with the block cores and what would you do then?
First off we are rookies at this. They do not set perfectly centered. That bothered me for quite some time lol. Then after talking with several people who do this stuff daily who all said unless its required they just drop them in and let them fall as they will. Not my ideal choice for doing things but they will still be within the concrete fill and add lots of support/strength to the overall wall. I am like you in thinking’ there should be a better way but I have yet to discover it. We did look down each cavity and picked the best position for each location. There’s lots going on in those holes so its not as big an issue as you would think once you start doing it. Hope this helps and good luck! Thanks for watching!
Terry
If web in middle of block Interferes with rebar, you can just knock the web out of block. You can also bend the rebar at very top surface of footing 90 degrees (parallel to footing surface) and then bend 90 degrees back up (vertical thru cell opening). If you do the latter you will need to chip a small piece off bottom of web on first block for rebar to clear where the rebar is bent 90 degrees parallel to the footing top surface and first block sets on footing
At times ive bent it by wedging it on the ball hitch of my truck for sharp n short angles
Awesome. Thanks for the great tip. That could come in handy.
Terry
Good job!
Thank you.
Thanks!! And you’re welcome. We are nit pros but we get it done and I think its works just fine. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Is it OK for the rebar to contact dirt? Wont it corrode?
If you look on TH-cam many professionals do it. Also most every building contractor I know does this same thing. We have rebar pins marking some if our property line. They are 50 plus years old and still looking good. Personally I am not concerned. Even if they rot away its just a small 1/2” hole in the footer. People drill larger holes than that often for pipes, electrical and other stuff without concern.
Terry
Very helpful. Thanks
Your welcome!! Thanks for watching!
Terry
a wonder in the cold states footing sand is put before concrete ????
Maybe has something to do with the cold up there?
Terry
@@ForestToFarm The cold in Massachusset is strong and I have noticed that all the foundation of the basement is put sand before the concrete and they wanted to know if the footings should also be sand ???
@Raymond cabreja ? Not sure why they would use sand. Maybe to help with settling issues?
Terry
What's the hand tool used for bar bending and where can I get myself one. Please assist
One was a half inch emt conduit bender. The other was an actual rebar bender which from what I have seen are pretty expensive. Hope this helps.
Terry
Why pipe bender is used? Bend hooks radius is long. I know there is specified radius based on the rebar diameter.
Its what we had available. Code did not require us to install rebar. We just did it for extra protection or overkill. However I am pretty sure that radius is a minimum limit. You can have a larger radius and it happens all the time. Bay windows come to mind. Also when there is a slight turn down in the footings. I am no expert so don’t quote me on this. 😁
Terry
For those of you bringing up the concern of rebar used as grade pins, we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :) They are 50 plus years old. A study that I have yet to be able to locate states that they found that rebar was expected to last 413 years before rusting out completely in a foundation situation such as we have here. :) We are no experts but from our experience there is little concern here. I could see the potential of rebar rusting out much faster in areas or states where the soil composition is such that it induces rust at a much faster rate but I can not be sure either way. Further more every contractor associated with concrete in our area that we have talked to about this does exactly what we did or similar. Those chairs are sold for exactly what we used them for as well.
You sir, need to invest in a pair of Klein's linesman pliers
I used Kline most of my life. Then fortunately I found Milwaukee. Cost less and in our experience by far a much better design and function. 😁
Terry
Stay grounded gentlemen..
👍
2:16 - A cutoff wheel would be better than a grinding wheel.
Good point. Yeah we just use what we have most of the time. 😁
Thanks for watching!!
Terry
They make grinding disks and CUTTING DISKS
Good to know.
Concrete 101, never bury rebar in dirt, it's a direct conduit for erosion. Rebar requires a min of 3" of concrete coverage at all ends.
Love me some rust!
Thanks for watching!
Terry
Cocrete 101 I suppose. The Building Code sets the requirement not the tradesman. I have heard this is the way some areas of the country roll . I hear in rural Tennessee folks don’t need a permit to construct so they do as they see fit. In my neck of the woods in SoCal, you can’t pee without a permit. Lol.
When i worked on site, i always though rebar seemed the hardest job,
We must love hard work haha. Seems like we are always doing it. Thanks for watching!
Terry
The Conduit bender is a game changer! THANK YOU!!!!!!
Yepper. It gets the job done.
Terry
Think a 44 y/o mom could do this herself for a 4'x3' pond???😬🤯 The main thing I'm trying to figure out is how to "float" the bars since having any of it exposed to the ground causes oxidation and compromises the stucture.
They make chairs similar to what we used that are made of plastic. I don’t know your strength and determination. My sister could accomplish this while my wife would struggle severely before failure. My wife is the most determined woman you will meet and the most responsible dedicated Person I know but she lacks mechanical skills on that level plain and simple. I would buy one stick of rebar. Not gonna break the bank. Then try to bend a 90 degree angle in it at what ever length you need plus enough for the overlap you plan to have. You will know then if you can accomplish the hardest task. Look up over TH-cam videos that are about “bending rebar’. Some people use other methods that are more doable if you have less strength I would think like drilling a hole into a board and running the rebar through the hole and using it as a bender. You may be a physically strong woman as many are these days. If so a conventional bender may work for you but they are costly. I feel like if you actually think you can do something and you have skills and diy anyway you probably can do this.
Terry
Find u a man Andrea lol
I spent way too long searching for a perfect bending setup seeing how damn hard it looked to bend #4 rebar! I went out and used a magnet on my old 1/2" bender to make sure it was steel and not the aluminum, snapped it on and bent a 1/2" rebar like it was nothing! I would say it is about like bending 3/4" EMT as far as the 'pull' effort needed but it has been working outstanding. Then I just saw your video and agree, way too many acting like it's impossible without that four foot long $750 bender! NOT!
Awesome! Great minds think alike ha ha. I generally don’t let what people say affect what I do. Thanks for watching!!😁
Terry
@@ForestToFarm Thanks for a great video. Hope your house build went well.
This is really helpful and not balabalaand bullshit👍
Glad to help!! Its not professional but it gets the job done for our needs.
Terry
If you use fiberglass rebar does it bend?
Sorry. I have no idea.
Terry
I thought the vertical rebar can't be embedded into the ground
😁. I have heard that many times. In this area it has always been done by most contractors and still is being done. Personally I think using fiberglass rebar for pins would be a better choice for grade stakes. I did not know about them prior to this project. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Thankyou Bro for sharing
No problem. Always glad to help. We are not pros but we get the job done and it works. 😁
Terry
What are the gloves for?
To keep our wimpy hands soft and supple? Honestly we have went most of our life beating our hands and body to death working construction and the like. We have decided to do what we can to reduce the wear and tear and damage to our bodies whenever possible.
Terry
Thank you
You’re welcome !
Terry
Rebar straight into the dirt ? Sounds like rust in the future
There was a study done and it would take about 430 something years for it to completely rust under there iirc.
Terry
No gravel for drainage?
I have never seen gravel used in our area. We are going to be putting in a French drain that will hopefully take care of any water issues.
Terry
Another great video guys can't wait for the build. windowfitter in the UK
Thanks! Us too!!
Terry
you need to grab some metal cut-off/ metabo wheels to rip that rebar in a couple of seconds
Thanks for the advice! Metabo is generally good stuff. We will likely give it a try next time.
Thanks for watching!
Terry
Just the thin .05 " thick wheels on a grinder. I use 4 to 5 inches on my metabo HPT (hitachi) battery powered grinder to do plenty of damage. Toggle switch helps a lot. & A full on plug in metabo with 6 inch wheels totally rips!
why the maxpedition rolly polly?
If you are talking about the pouch its where I keep my cell phone. Works great. Had it for several years now.
Terry
Hey good job, but I must say Saturday is the Sabbath of the lord God our maker, and he asks that we rest on that day ( the 7th) day he says in Exodus 20 and verse 11 and also in John 14 and verse 15 he says if we love him we should keep his commandments. Also he promises that those who obey him will have right to the tree of life upon Jesus second return, friends Jesus says that he wants none of us to perish but rather we all come to repentance and have everlasting life. He says we should seek him now while he can be found and call upon him while he is near. God bless you all I'm here from the church that seeks to keeps all God's commands including the one most of the modern religion seek to obliterate the seventh day Sabbath. Love you guys! And remember now John 14 and verse 15.
Thanks for the kind words!!
Terry
Try that with # 5 rebar it will break your conduit bender
I will take your word for it.
Terry
Good job
Thanks!
hi how many inches should be apart
I don’t want to mislead you. I am not sure what the code says on this. It was not required in our area. We just like to overbuild when possible. However the space was determined by the preset distance bent into those rebar chairs we installed. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Use concrete dobies NEVER drive rebar into dirt the moisture will rust rot and destroy your footing faster
👍
I thought you Shouldn't let any rebar touch the soil?
Been hearing that here a few times now. As mentioned in a previous comment- First off we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and
other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :)
The local “pros” we talked with all said this is the way they have always done it. I have no clue but honestly in hindsight it probably not the best idea. Although its only touching the soil where we put the pins for concrete depth. Its not touching the rebar support runs. In that case should those pins rust over time its basically no different than drilling holes in concrete which is done all the time without concern within reason of course. One hole every 6 foot in the massive footers we poured hardly seems concerning.
Terry
You should dobbies 3x3 concrete blocks with tie wire on them. That way no steel ever touches dirt. Water will follow that rebar then the wire to the footing rebar and within 20 years the rebar will blow out the concrete. Starting as a little crack which will let more water in and will completely damage the structural foundation. I see this all the time in Mexico where I vacation. A simple change here will make a world of difference. These wire frames work great on floors holding rebar off of wood/steel forms.
@@toddseely8371 I commented about a study on this subject some where in these comments. It tells a different story but I can not confirm either way.Thanks for the advice!
Terry
Where's the moister barrier
I thought the rebar is not supposed to touch the dirt?
The rebar in the ground are grade stakes. They are not touching the structural rebar. This is the way everyone here does it. Been that way forever. I have a friend who works for a huge construction company. He is over the concrete division. They always do this. Read through the comments. There are many discussions about it. I have no concerns. Its gonna work because it has always worked here. :)
Terry
Ins pector did not let me to stick a piece of rebar in the dirt to tie my rebars
Lots of people oppose doing it from what I hear. There have been studies about it and they said in something like 430 something years it could be a problem. I think where that comes from is places along the ocean where the soil is salty. Rust would possibly be an issue there. Here every contractor I talk to says they use rebar so at least here it seems to work out OK.
Terry
Worse case lets say those rebar stakes rust out. Then we have a half on hole in our roughly 20”x9” to 12” deep footers. Not gonna be an issue. People drill holes in concrete all the time without issue.
Terry
Oh. Just saw the part about you wanting to tie your rebar to it. We used it for grade steaks. It was not connected directly to the rebar itself. Just the chairs in a couple of places. I honestly would not suggest hooking directly to the rebar.
Terry
Try using a cutoff wheel next time instead of a grinder wheel.
I agree. However we do not have one so we just used what we had. Thanks!
Terry
EXCELLENT
Thanks and thanks for watching!!
Terry
Wow
?
Rebar is real easy when your working with #3 bars I woulda just bent them under my foot and slammed em in .. try working with 30 ft #11s .... and tell me how easy rebar is lol
We are rookies at this. Never experienced #11's. Probably rough to handle.
Terryu
did they called this reinforced foundation ? for this reason many houses has a cracks on the basement walls , footage should reinforced better with more rebars .
Not sure what they call it. It is suppose to make the footing stronger. Thanks for watching!
Terry
Wow, pouring concrete right on dirt.
Where else would you pour it? Thats how it’s done around here. Thanks for watching!
Terry
In the 80's I used to build block walls. No rebar or metal is suppose to touch the ground. The metal will start to rust & get into the footing and weaken the cement to the point it fails. Yes it will take years but nevertheless l wouldn't want to be around when it happens.
Then probably 90% or more of the homes in this area of many many McMansions will be falling over soon because pretty much every builder/ concrete guy I know, of which there are many, does it this way. 😁
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts.
Oh yeah and we have a good many property pins around our very cut up piece of land and a good many are actually rebar and of them some are about 1/4”. They have been in the ground for over 50 years and potentially much longer as its been that long since it was last surveyed. We even have an old car axel for a corner pin lol 😂. They are still in great shape being exposed all these years. 😁
Terry
I tie rebar for a living. That was hard to watch. I bet it’s poured and working though.
Lol 😂. Yeah we are no experts and did little studying on the subject. I am sure its stronger for our efforts. Thanks for the respectful and slightly humorous comment!! So many keyboard warriors out there these days looking to bash you. I actually enjoy constructive criticism such as you gave. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
@@ForestToFarm no hate at all. If I farmed for a day I’m sure I would be terrible.
We will make our share of mistakes lol.
Terry
sorry i dind not see the whole video you did it well.
No problem. We got it done but not necessarily the professional way. We tried to keep it simple. Plus we used what we had to bend it. Thanks for watching!
Terry
Rebar isn't supposed to go into the ground.
I can not begin to tell you how many professionals I know that do this every job. I see your point and its a valid point but those rods are in the ground and not touching the rebar system. They were just used to keep the footings somewhat level while pouring concrete. Thanks for watching!!
Terry
Was this inspected? The chairs that you used are metal against earth that will corrode and transfer that corrosion up to the reinforcement. So will the pieces of bar that were hammered into the soil. Should have used concrete Dobie blocks or plastic chairs to support the reinforcement.
Those chairs are designed for use exactly as used. The rebar grade stakes are used in our area by most everyone we talked with in the construction world and not one time has anyone had an issue. I am talking many of these people have been building for 30 and 40 years plus. We have no concerns about it. :) Besides there is way too much plastic in our world already. :)
Terry
I’d never pass it
@@MB-oc5ty Are you an inspector and where do you live? Just a general area would do. :)
I bend that type rebar with my hands lol
I would not be surprised. I used to be a lot stronger than I am now. Getting older and taking it a bit more easy is making me soft lol.
Terry
@@ForestToFarm where are you based at, I’m in Tennessee and i am 20 I’ve been doing footing for about three years for my brothers company I really like the videos though keep it up
@@luljay4861 We are in South Carolina. Thanks we plan to continue for as long as possible. I see no end in sight. :)
Terry
No disrespect but I prefer to always get my construction advice from the Mexicans they live and breath this stuff but thx for the offer
No problem ha ha. This channel is not always about advice. We document what we do and how we do it. There are plenty of ways to get it done. We just show what works for us. The local inspectors are always telling us what we did was overkill. Must be doing something right hey? Thanks for watching! By the way we had Mexicans show up to do our footers and then form and pour the crawlspace walls. Guess what? The footers looked like bananas. No kidding and were out of square by inches. We ran them off and had to dig out the footers with a shovel to fix the huge mess they made. What a nightmare. Cost us lots of time and a bit of money to boot. On the flip side at our current residence we had a Mexican crew put in a monolithic slab and then a driveway and they did a top notch job. Race has zero to do with a mans performance. Integrity, respect, intelligence (not education but natural ability) , honesty and just a deep hearts desire to do whats right for those whom you serve goes a very long way. I see good and bad in all races. No one race dominates these days. Been around construction since I was a small child. I have seen a lot from all walks of life. Either you got it or you don’t.
Terry
Sorry but this is what not to do. All rebars MUST be embedded in concrete. You are exposing the entire grid to rust with those metal sticks "grounded" to the soil
I have responded to this several times for this video. Long story short its common practice here. 😁
Terry
Do you think the staked rebars rusts will travel to the structural rebar that quick? Like how much of a drawback do you think it’ll be to the structure? I’m curious just because the name of the game is pros and cons. I see the pro which is grounding your homes footer easy, and I see a con but I don’t know to what degree
Also, by no means is this even bad practice just in the game you always wanna know the good, the bad, and what you should be aware of! I see the purpose of the staked rebar, and i also know exposed rebar will get rust, but will that staked rebar really be a catalyst or something that Just rust the house from the ground up? Like how quickly would the process even happen (rebar will rest even in concrete), but is it really that much quicker?
@@Someonesgottabuildit I an planning a slab on grade this summer but it will be frost protected, meaning I can't use the ufer ground method since there will be insulation between soil and concrete (code does not allow). General guideline are Rebars must be surrounded with concrete, about 3 inches but not always possible.
@@Someonesgottabuildit theres no need to put skates, there are easy ways to get around that method. I will be using plastic chairs (from CV plastics). Then I will bend some rebars in a shape to allow the structure to stay in place and add reinforcements in the footing area of the monolithic slab
Not gonna bust your balls over the job you did, you're amateurs, but for all practical purposes you never pound bar into the soil then cover it with mud. Just because all the locals do it and been doing it that way for years doesn't make it right. Use concrete spacer block or more commonly known as dobies. Just a fyi, nice job though, precutting your tie wire was cute.
First off we have several property pins that clearly state "1/4 inch and some 1/2 inch rebar" We even have one that states its and "old axle" lol.. Brian and I have located all of them which are many on our somewhat cut up property line. Every one of them are still in tact and other than surface rust they seem to be doing fine. :) According to two pros (not related or working together) around here who are life long concrete guys doing multi-million dollar jobs on a regular basis they say they have done this since they started many years ago. They said this argument has been around for ages. One went to multiple courses on concrete. Apparently Duke University did a study some years ago and determined that in a worse case scenario it would take approximately 413 years for the rebar to rust out in a slab stake situation such as we have done.
Now if we had tied those stakes to our rebar in the footers we may start having problems at 413 years from now. However they do not connect with the exception of the chairs in a few places intersecting with a couple of the stakes.
So even if the rebar were to rust out tomorrow or 413 years from now it would basically be like drilling a 1/2 hole every 6 feet on our footers under the walls. Those footers range from 19" to 24" wide and anywhere from 8" at the very minimum to 24 " deep. Those holes would have zero effect on the performance of our footers. Not saying they will not rust but the rust will not be a problem in our situation.
Again if you tied the stakes to the rebar in the footers then some time in the future it may be a problem but we did not do that for the very reason of rust concerns.
One of the two guys I talked with recently said the rebar rust argument started when people were letting rebar extend past the footers into the surrounding soil. Then as the rebar rusted it worked its way horizontally into the footers and water was able to travel horizontally into the footers and make its way around the footers which I see as a very possible problem but its nothing near what we have here. Those arguments are old as dirt. :) I guess time will tell but I for one will not be loosing sleep over it. :)
Terry
@@ForestToFarm that's cool, guess I'm just old fashioned, doing things the right way the first time.
@@roddiener I do not disagree with you there. We are rookies and I always take the best rout when I am aware of such lol. Hindsight I would avoid it if I felt there may be issues with doing it like we did. Our intention is to do the best job possible. I am sure we will lack perfection in more than one area of construction though. :)
Terry
Fight eachother
Yeah... yeah just Beef it out.
Looks like at this point, that's the Only way
rebar shall not contact soil
I agree totally and nothing used as actual “ rebar” touched the ground. However we did use some of the same stock as grade stakes to help keep the footers level while pouring concrete. Its done all the time by pretty much every builder I know in this area and from what I have seen all across the country. 😁
Thanks for watching!
Terry
no measurement at all ...Need to explain measurements.
We were pressed for time. Might give a better explanation on the shop we build some time later on.
Terry
#5 bar won’t bend that easy with conduit bender, not unless you are a gorilla!
My wife says I am a Neanderthal 😂 That has to count for something lol.
Thanks for watching!
Terry
thats not the correct way of putting the rebar you bent them wrong way.
We are not experts but its gonna work 😁.
Terry
What day is you
?
Do you want to know what day we post? There is no set time currently. Our lives are very busy.
Terry
Your method would not pass almost all building codes. None of the metal should touch the ground.
I see it all the time on TH-cam in other parts of the country. Also pretty much every builder I know in this area does grade stakes this way. They were not part of or connected to the rebar system. They were grade stakes helping you keep the concrete pour level.
Thanks for watching!
Terry
Lol talk about two bar footer lol
Care to elaborate?
Terry
LOL USING A CONDUIT BENDER FOR R-BAR WRONG WRONG WRONG, YOUR R BAR LAPS R A JOKE 32 INCHES MINIMUM AND THOSE RBAR STAKES WILL SUCK MOISTURE RIGHT UP INTO THAT HOR AND VERTS AND RUSAT THAT SHIT TO NOTHING BUT TURDS IN A WEEK!
Its all good 😁
You do realize when you pound rebar in the ground like that it corrodes. The bar over time and rust everything out.
Every contractor I know does it this way. Its not touching the actual structural rebar. So even if it does rust out its gonna be a 1/2” hole in a 24” wide 12” to 18” deep concrete footer. People drill much larger holes than that in concrete without concern. With that said if a person were to be concerned about rust a better choice might be the fiberglass rebar for grade stakes. 😁
Terry
@@ForestToFarm ya up
In Canada we just get called on it by the building inspectors. That’s there opinion. Maybe our climate is different.
Us electricians can do anyone else's job with easelol
Agreed!! I spent most of my life helping other trades partly as friend and partly to gain info on their trade. Jack of all trades, master of one ha ha. Thanks for watching!
Terry