The 16-Ton crimper in this video can be found here: amzn.to/2rovDe8 The 4/0 tinned copper eyelets with 3/8" hole can be found here: amzn.to/2OkDa6Q The adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tube used in this video - RED: amzn.to/34mRO2P The adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tube used in this video - BLACK: amzn.to/2qzbIZX And just for fun, this is a brand name crimper for comparison: amzn.to/2Ci4sqY Thanks for watching As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
The numbers on the dies are in mm and they correspond to 10mm-8awg 16mm-6awg 25mm-4awg 35mm-2awg 50mm-1/0awg 70mm-2/0awg 95mm-3/0awg 120mm-4/0awg mine came with 8 dies 10-16-25-35-50-70-95-120. 8awg-4/0awg and I paid 41.00 off ebay I wish I would have got the 1 with 11 dies but this will do works great
I agree. I really like the added protection of the adhesive lined shrink tube.... especially if the cable is going to be used on a vehicle that will see salty roads. Its a little harder to find than standard shrink tube but it's worth it in my opinion... and its doesn't cost a lot more than regular tubing. Thanks for the comment. 🙂
Just bought one like this for $45 on sale at Princess Auto up here in Canada. Thankfully the dies are labeled in wire size and it works pretty slick! Had to do a couple crimps under a truck and it worked great. 4/0 to 6 gauge
Aaaaaaand sold! I've been using a hammer crimper, and it does alright. I've cut them open after changing up things doing car audio, and they look hit or miss. This looks super solid, every time, if you get the die size right for your peticular installation. Should be here Thursday, I bet I gain some voltage under heavy load with cold welded connections like this(1000a +).
Yeah, I've had good luck with mine. I don't use it every day but it does seem to do a good job..... especially for the price. (I know they've gone up since I made the video but it's still a good deal)
@@SlipFitGarage I purchased mine for $50 out the door, hell of a deal if you ask me. I do step on the snap on truck every now and then, this feels like getting paid! 🤣
lol, yeah, I agree! I've paid my fair share of "Snap-on tax" myself over the years. I love all my SO tools, but thank god I don't NEED to buy from them ever again.... Unless something new a shiny comes along that I just gotta have! lol.
Seen a red and a blue version of this, identical except for the colour, mines like yours, a yellow one , (probably the best), got mine to make up rigging for my boat, not had any problems so far and for the money I couldn't walk by it.
I have these style crimpers and it can't crimp this cable tight enough before the die bottoms out. The crimp ends came with the cable so I know they're right. EDIT: I used the 1/0 die and it worked great. I threw a few pieces of solder with flux on the end of the cable and soldered after crimp, but it was holding very well without the solder.
I was confused by the first part of your comment. You were basically saying that this crimp tool cannot do what I demonstrated in the video..... Like somehow I used special effects to achieve my results in this video. lolol. Glad you figured it out. Thanks.
It can even vary with cheap thin lugs, that's the one downside of the die-style crimpers If you can't get a good crimp just size down and avoid over-crimping the the point it develops "ears"
Your using the wrong lug. For example a lug designed for class 5 or 6 cable will be larger than a lug of the same size cable but class 2 cable. The difference being the amount of cores inside the cable.
So I did some research and here is what I found. The dies are sized for hard wire crimps which is why they do not work so hot on braided wire. That is why the wire sizes do not crimp correct unless you are using solid wire. Wonder if alternate dies are available? will look.
I bought one for car stereo installation. I use 1/0 cable for my main power and ground connections to my distro block. It stopped working after about 4 crimps. The kit comes with extra seals, but no instructions on how to get to the seals to replace them. I found a TH-cam video. My problem now, is that I can't unscrew the handle so I can take it apart.
@@SlipFitGarage I would prefer to repair it. I just need a pipe wrench to unscrew the handle. It came with extra seals, I just need to get to them. Besides, I am pretty sure my return window has closed by now.
@@SlipFitGarage Not really. My comment didn't allude to any time frame at all. Not really relevant though. I could have just received it 30 minutes before I posted my comment, and I still wouldn't have been inclined to return it for something that was an obvious simple fix. Not unless I just felt like turning in my "man card". The fix was actually even more simple than I assumed. Once I bought some channel lock pliers, so I could get a grip on the handle, I was able to unscrew the handle, and inspect all the seals. Nothing was wrong with the seals. Turns out, it just needed more oil. The fact that I could point it facing down and it would work, should have been a clue. After a little research, I determined it used ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Then with a little more research, discovered that for this application, using SAE 10W or ATF fluid would suffice. I went with ATF. Works fine now.
Thank you... It may not be 100% perfect, but its close..... and certainly much better than not using a crimper at all. (Some guys just use a hammer to smash the fitting) Thank you for taking the time to leave a nice comment. 🙂
I’ve seen good fusion from a hammer type crimper, though it isn’t as pretty. Seems hydraulic crimpers that do a decent job have become pretty affordable today, and are the way to go.
@@JeffinTD Sure, hammer crimpers work good too. In fact, I have a hammer crimper that I've used many times on smaller battery cables with good results. Unfortunately it didn't open wide enough to crimp the 4/0 fittings so that's when I bought the hydraulic crimper. When I mentioned some guys using a hammer in my previous post, I meant that they just smashed the fitting flat with a hammer, no crimper at all. I actually did that myself when I was a kid on some battery cables for an old truck that I had. It "worked" but it broke a lots of wire strands and eventually the cables pulled out of the fittings. Not ideal.
@@SlipFitGarage Yeah I hear ya. I’d done the hammer thing back in the day when a beater piece of farm equipment needs to be running. I thought hard about the crimper you’ve got, but saw TEMco had a referb that comes with warranty.
Yeah it's perfect for making your own battery cables for automotive repair or solar systems, etc. It's just like any other tool..... you may not use it everyday but when you need it, you're glad that you have it. Especially if you're a tool junkie like me. I've got certain specialty tools in my box that I haven't used in several years, but I'm glad that I own them and I would never consider getting rid of them. You know how that would go.... as soon as I sell a tool, I'll need it a week later. Lol. Thanks for the comment. 🙂
Hello, I do thank you for taking the time to leave a nice helpful comment...... bust just a side note: That info has been posted in this comment section many times since this video was originally posted. Thanks again.
I just use a razor blade. Lightly score the outer insulation then peel it off with either your fingers or pliers. Do not score thru the insulation and nick the copper wire. The wire is the video is not 4 AWG, wich would be pronounced as "four gauge". The wire in the video is 4/0 which would pr pronounced as "four aught". Aught is another word for zero. The "4/0" wire in this video is essentially 6 sizes larger than "4 awg" Imagine looking at a chart, as wire gets larger it goes down numerically until it hits #1.... So, 12 awg 10 awg 8 awg 6 awg 4 awg 2 awg 1 awg (after 1awg, numbers go the other way and end with "aught" 1/0 aught 2/0 aught 3/0 aught 4/0 aught
They indeed look great, but making a cut to check is alas the WRONG test... (eye test)... you need to pull the lug with a certain x Nm that should exceed the national norm (like euro NEN or VDE). We do high voltage cabling and the crimp tool is hydraulic and calibrated in Nm's as to firm is bad as well. Most people think fix = fix... well it is not, as it cuts in the wires on the edge end of the lug. And the sizes in the box refer to mm-squared.
Yeah, I get it. This is a cheap Chinese crimper. If someone was doing crimping professionally in a commercial or industrial setting.... they certainly will NOT be using a Chinese crimper..... and I never suggested this was good enough for that. But if you're making your own battery cables for heavy trucks or equipment, or heavy cables for a DIY solar system, (for example) then this crimper will probably be just fine. It's OBVIOUSLY not a calibrated tool. Anyone can see that. lol. It's a $50 dollar crimper. The crimper you use probably cost 40X the price of this one (maybe more?) and I KNOW your crimper does a better job. You get what you pay for. lolol. And yeah, the sizes are metric. It's been mentioned many times in this comment section. Thank you for the comment.
For a 70mm lug would you use the 70?, thats what i used recently with my new crimper, i think it could be tighter, or maybe i need to do few more pumps when its tight.
Sorry, I do not work in "mm" when it comes to wire/cable. I work in AWG sizing..... Other people in this comment section have commented that the sizes marked on the crimp dies are indeed metric. Take that for what it's worth. Also, once the dies make contact while crimping, extra pumps will not make the crimp tighter. Once the dies are bottomed out against each other, it's done! You could try a SAMPLE crimp with the next die size down if you still think the crimp should be tighter. Just be sure to experiment with scrap cable and fittings before crimping the real thing. Good luck. Thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage i used to use the other one before i think its called its yQk handheld one, what i do find with this new one is the dies have a little play in them once they are on the crimper, what i might do is put a thin flat metal pieces either side so they don't move as much when crimping otherwise the bottom crimp and top crimp aren't always in line with each other.
@@sahajankhan1436 Yes, I have noticed that also. I just usually get the dies somewhat tight when starting a crimp, then make sure the dies are aligned correctly, then finish the crimp. If you make shims to align the dies that would be even better.
The dies are not impact-rated. The metal plating is the giveaway. True impact rated dies are black and will not peel or delaminate. I bought a Temco crimper, which appears to be make in the US.
Never claimed they were impact rated.... good thing it's not an impact tool. Congrats on your brand name crimper.... I'm sure you paid a brand name price, too. Don't get me wrong, I love high quality tools and I don't mind paying a lot more money for higher quality. But I also don't need to buy the "best" of everything. Stuff I use on a daily basis I will absolutely buy the highest quality money can buy. But for tools I only need to maybe use 2 or 3 times, I can sacrifice quality to save a thousand bucks.
$90. I read up on the comparisons between the low price imports and the professional grade tools. Check out Temco. They offer everything electrical for the industrial user to the single tradesman at very competitive prices, and their selection is vast. Terminals, heat shrink, lugs, butt connectors, wire, cable you name it.
I will have to physically look at my crimper tool to see where the oil fill Port is before I can specifically answer the question. I will post back here in a day or two when I have a chance to look at my crimper.
@@SlipFitGarage I found it, the main handle unscrew and there's a plug that can be removed to fill up. I ended up having to fully disassemble mine and rebuild it to get it working again.
Yes it is..... I don't use it every day, but I do use it a few time per year. And actually, if I'm not mistaken, it's been over 3 years now and it still working good. Thanks for the question.
Nicely constructed video. But at 0:09 you can see the cable printing showing AWG 4/0 (103mm²). 103mm² is just the direct conversion to metric from the cable maker because there are no 103mm² wires in Europe. There are 95 or 120mm². A 120mm² gauge is of course not going to compress the lug over 103mm² wire, so 95mm² is your best bet. I have to smile when you don't know what the die sizes mean. If they are clearly not AWG, what else could they be....?!
They could be some other form of measurement that I have never seen before. Ever. I have never done electrical work outside of the USA so why is that such a surprise to you? Why would I study metric wire sizing when, 1) I am not an electrician by trade, and 2) I have NEVER seen any wire or cable sold here in the US marked with metric sizing? Learning about something that I will NEVER see in real life seems like a waste of time to me. I am glad you found it amusing. lol. Also, thank you for the compliment at the beginning of your comment.
@@scod3908 I think my crimper has markings for both systems or maybe it is the cables that are intended for battery connection only come in pretty simular metric sizes to AWG. Mine is the smaller type though maybe maximum of 1/0 or something
Interesting post and yup, looks like you got a very decent crimp. The 35 and 120 are standard metric cable sections. I`m guessing you will have standard sizes of 16 - 25 -- 35 - 50 - 70 - 95 - 120 - 150 which are standard metric cable sections in mm2. Would you use this crimper for mains voltage cables at a large control panel though? Might be a bit of a `leap of faith` where the consequences and cost of a bad crimp would be dramatic. I`d dip out and use a tried and tested crimper just to sleep easy! I might be wrong though and could be underestimating the quality of the product.
It's been a while since I made the video (I should re-watch it) but I seem to remember saying basically what you said. If I was crimping mains in a commercial panel where I needed to use certified crimp terminals with the correct corresponding crimper then no.... I would use the high end brand name equipment. But then again, If I was doing that job in the first place, I would be charging accordingly so the cost of those terminal and tools would be included in the price of the job..... For your own hobby stuff such as solar systems and battery cables, etc... I think this is fine. Again, if I was doing this type of work professionally, "for-hire" I would absolutely be using the the brand name equipment. No question. Especially since the customer is ultimately paying for the tools and supplies anyway....
I had another commenter mention that same thing a while back..... I personally don't hear the similarities but then again, most of us hear ourselves differently than others hear us when we talk. Thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage NP. He’s a favorite of mine, so it was great to visualize that! Great vid. Doing a similar project currently and I got the Temco Hammer Crimper, but I’m going to borrow a friends hydraulic after watching this. Thanks!
@@SlipFitGarage I suspected so but didnt have time to check. IT's a brilliant tool though I have a simular one and I would never want to do it with the mechanical or hammer operated one after using it. Something very satisfying about controlling so much power with such precision.
In the video? Yes, I only did one crimp. However, feel free do do as many crimps as your lug (fitting) allows. If there is room for two crimps, do two.
@@SlipFitGarage Thank You!. Looks like the die size may vary also depending on the thickness of the lug. You choose the one that will fit the best on the lug?
Right. It's been mentioned several times already in this comment section. Also, I've never seen an inch of metric wire here in the USA. We go by American Wire Gauge. Thanks for the comment.
@@fatcamp907 Lol, Of course I have.... but I've never needed a cable crimper that big on an import vehicle. I was talking about residential, commercial, and industrial wiring here in the US.
This tool IS NOT designed to crimp ANY hydraulic hose fittings. This is a wire crimper ONLY. Hydraulic fittings have a very specific crimp spec. (Measured by the thousandth of an inch, .001) In fact hydraulic crimp fittings are manufactured to work with a specific type/brand of hydraulic hose and they should never be mismatched. Infact, most hydraulic crimping machines are designed to work with a specific brand of hose and fittings. For example.... if you have Parker brand crimp fittings, they are specifically designed to be crimped onto Parker brand hose... and are usually crimped with a Parker brand crimper. Everything is engineered to work together to provide a SAFE crimp that will last without leaking. The same can be said with any other brand of hydraulic fittings/hose/crimper. The dies on this WIRE crimper do not evenly close together in a 360 radius like a hydraulic crimper, and the dies are also not deep enough to properly crimp the entire collar (crimp area) of a typical hydraulic fitting. Please DO NOT try crimping hydraulic fittings with this WIRE crimper. The end result would be very dangerous and most certainly leak like crazy. A propper hydraulic fitting crimper, and this WIRE crimper have absolutely NOTHING in common. Thanks for the question.
I knew it is for wiring, but like lots of other things, I have used certain tools for other applications. But the dies on this tool is quite thin. Even if you could make it work, it would have to be doubled up or crimped two times right beside one another. I'd assume given the need of very close application, you could use this in a pinch but certian care as to not crush the inner coupler or just do as I intended and source an actual crimp tool for hydraulic applications.
@@bendent9002 Hydraulic hose has a wire reinforcement layer between the rubber layers. If the fitting is not crimped exactly right, those wires inside the crimp can/will break and the crimp will be very weak, and very dangerous! We have no way of knowing if the wires get broken during the crimp process... thats why we use fittings/hose/crimper dies/crimper that were engineered to work together and provide a proper crimp without breaking the reinforcement wire layer. I can almost guarantee the dies on this wire crimper will crush a hudraulic fitting in such a way that at least some, if not all reinforcement wires inside the hydraulic hose will be broken or at least somewhat compromised. Its not the outside of the crimp that is important, its what's happening on the inside during the crimp that really matters. This wire crimper CANNOT provide a safe hydraulic crimp. Its not even remotely possible.
@@whatyousaidbud I just wanted to be sure I was very clear. I did not want anyone to read my reply and walk away thinking there "might be a chance" it could work.... Its like that scene in the original "Dumb and Dumber" movie: th-cam.com/video/9ZYg4ZbcOPQ/w-d-xo.html 😁
The 16-Ton crimper in this video can be found here: amzn.to/2rovDe8
The 4/0 tinned copper eyelets with 3/8" hole can be found here: amzn.to/2OkDa6Q
The adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tube used in this video - RED: amzn.to/34mRO2P
The adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tube used in this video - BLACK: amzn.to/2qzbIZX
And just for fun, this is a brand name crimper for comparison: amzn.to/2Ci4sqY
Thanks for watching
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
35 means it's die for cables with cross section area of 35mm2. Although metric designations are mostly used here in Europe. :-)
Thank you!
The numbers on the dies are in mm and they correspond to 10mm-8awg 16mm-6awg 25mm-4awg 35mm-2awg 50mm-1/0awg 70mm-2/0awg 95mm-3/0awg 120mm-4/0awg mine came with 8 dies 10-16-25-35-50-70-95-120. 8awg-4/0awg and I paid 41.00 off ebay I wish I would have got the 1 with 11 dies but this will do works great
these are square mm numbers(mm2). in europe you have cross section marked on the every piece you crimp on, too. just match the numbers
Thanks for this list.
I figured out what the numbers meant a long time ago, and now I don't have to find my wire gage chart to match dies to wires.
Excellent. Got the same one this year for crimpling 1/0 cable. Got the same heat gun too. Good tip on the heat shrink.
Thank you!
I have one and brought another one for UK office use, very useful and easy to use
I agree.... It does come in handy even if you don;t use it every day.
Something satisfying about a great crimp with a good heat shrink tubing on it, looks complete.
I agree. I really like the added protection of the adhesive lined shrink tube.... especially if the cable is going to be used on a vehicle that will see salty roads. Its a little harder to find than standard shrink tube but it's worth it in my opinion... and its doesn't cost a lot more than regular tubing. Thanks for the comment. 🙂
awesome review. I just bought one and needed some tips. Thank you for sacrificing a connector to show how it works.
No problem, thank you for watching, and posting a comment.
Just bought one like this for $45 on sale at Princess Auto up here in Canada. Thankfully the dies are labeled in wire size and it works pretty slick! Had to do a couple crimps under a truck and it worked great. 4/0 to 6 gauge
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Aaaaaaand sold! I've been using a hammer crimper, and it does alright. I've cut them open after changing up things doing car audio, and they look hit or miss. This looks super solid, every time, if you get the die size right for your peticular installation. Should be here Thursday, I bet I gain some voltage under heavy load with cold welded connections like this(1000a +).
Yeah, I've had good luck with mine. I don't use it every day but it does seem to do a good job..... especially for the price. (I know they've gone up since I made the video but it's still a good deal)
@@SlipFitGarage I purchased mine for $50 out the door, hell of a deal if you ask me. I do step on the snap on truck every now and then, this feels like getting paid! 🤣
lol, yeah, I agree! I've paid my fair share of "Snap-on tax" myself over the years. I love all my SO tools, but thank god I don't NEED to buy from them ever again.... Unless something new a shiny comes along that I just gotta have! lol.
Seen a red and a blue version of this, identical except for the colour, mines like yours, a yellow one , (probably the best), got mine to make up rigging for my boat, not had any problems so far and for the money I couldn't walk by it.
Yes, numbers are mm2. Also I always try to fit two crimps next to each other, if the lug allowes it.
Yep, I've also tried double crimps. Works great if the lug is big enough. (Like you mentioned)
Thanks. 🙂
I have these style crimpers and it can't crimp this cable tight enough before the die bottoms out. The crimp ends came with the cable so I know they're right.
EDIT: I used the 1/0 die and it worked great. I threw a few pieces of solder with flux on the end of the cable and soldered after crimp, but it was holding very well without the solder.
I was confused by the first part of your comment. You were basically saying that this crimp tool cannot do what I demonstrated in the video..... Like somehow I used special effects to achieve my results in this video. lolol. Glad you figured it out. Thanks.
It can even vary with cheap thin lugs, that's the one downside of the die-style crimpers
If you can't get a good crimp just size down and avoid over-crimping the the point it develops "ears"
Your using the wrong lug. For example a lug designed for class 5 or 6 cable will be larger than a lug of the same size cable but class 2 cable. The difference being the amount of cores inside the cable.
Wow impressive that was a dam good crimp.
Thanks!
Thanks, I think this is what I ordered about an hour ago.
Great! Thank you.
So I did some research and here is what I found. The dies are sized for hard wire crimps which is why they do not work so hot on braided wire. That is why the wire sizes do not crimp correct unless you are using solid wire. Wonder if alternate dies are available? will look.
I bought one for car stereo installation. I use 1/0 cable for my main power and ground connections to my distro block. It stopped working after about 4 crimps. The kit comes with extra seals, but no instructions on how to get to the seals to replace them. I found a TH-cam video. My problem now, is that I can't unscrew the handle so I can take it apart.
Did you buy it from Amazon? Just return it...
@@SlipFitGarage I would prefer to repair it. I just need a pipe wrench to unscrew the handle. It came with extra seals, I just need to get to them. Besides, I am pretty sure my return window has closed by now.
Oh, I see.... you made it sound like you just bought the tool in your original comment.
@@SlipFitGarage Not really. My comment didn't allude to any time frame at all. Not really relevant though. I could have just received it 30 minutes before I posted my comment, and I still wouldn't have been inclined to return it for something that was an obvious simple fix. Not unless I just felt like turning in my "man card".
The fix was actually even more simple than I assumed. Once I bought some channel lock pliers, so I could get a grip on the handle, I was able to unscrew the handle, and inspect all the seals. Nothing was wrong with the seals. Turns out, it just needed more oil. The fact that I could point it facing down and it would work, should have been a clue. After a little research, I determined it used ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Then with a little more research, discovered that for this application, using SAE 10W or ATF fluid would suffice. I went with ATF. Works fine now.
Glad you solved the problem. Nice job. 🙂
Excellent review. Looks like you got excellent fusion. Thanks for taking the time.
Thank you... It may not be 100% perfect, but its close..... and certainly much better than not using a crimper at all. (Some guys just use a hammer to smash the fitting) Thank you for taking the time to leave a nice comment. 🙂
I’ve seen good fusion from a hammer type crimper, though it isn’t as pretty. Seems hydraulic crimpers that do a decent job have become pretty affordable today, and are the way to go.
@@JeffinTD
Sure, hammer crimpers work good too. In fact, I have a hammer crimper that I've used many times on smaller battery cables with good results. Unfortunately it didn't open wide enough to crimp the 4/0 fittings so that's when I bought the hydraulic crimper. When I mentioned some guys using a hammer in my previous post, I meant that they just smashed the fitting flat with a hammer, no crimper at all. I actually did that myself when I was a kid on some battery cables for an old truck that I had. It "worked" but it broke a lots of wire strands and eventually the cables pulled out of the fittings. Not ideal.
@@SlipFitGarage Yeah I hear ya. I’d done the hammer thing back in the day when a beater piece of farm equipment needs to be running.
I thought hard about the crimper you’ve got, but saw TEMco had a referb that comes with warranty.
Thanks! I just bought one because it was cheap ($70), but started regretting my purchase. But it seems like it’s a good deal for hobby use.
Yeah it's perfect for making your own battery cables for automotive repair or solar systems, etc. It's just like any other tool..... you may not use it everyday but when you need it, you're glad that you have it. Especially if you're a tool junkie like me. I've got certain specialty tools in my box that I haven't used in several years, but I'm glad that I own them and I would never consider getting rid of them. You know how that would go.... as soon as I sell a tool, I'll need it a week later. Lol. Thanks for the comment. 🙂
the numbers on the dies are for metric wire gauges - you can find cross ref tables on the internet
Thank you, George! 🙂
Great video. Thanks
Thank you!
4/0 is 107mm2 so 95 would work. Thanks for the review!
Really great review thank you for posting this!
Thank you!
Great vid and make sure you orientate your terminal in the correct rotation.
Thank you! 🙂
hello the number on the dies are metric millimetre square conductor size
Hello, I do thank you for taking the time to leave a nice helpful comment...... bust just a side note: That info has been posted in this comment section many times since this video was originally posted. Thanks again.
What did you use to strip that beast? The biggest I have found has been 6AWG, but I am stripping the same size as in the video, 4AWG.
I just use a razor blade. Lightly score the outer insulation then peel it off with either your fingers or pliers. Do not score thru the insulation and nick the copper wire. The wire is the video is not 4 AWG, wich would be pronounced as "four gauge". The wire in the video is 4/0 which would pr pronounced as "four aught". Aught is another word for zero. The "4/0" wire in this video is essentially 6 sizes larger than "4 awg"
Imagine looking at a chart, as wire gets larger it goes down numerically until it hits #1.... So,
12 awg
10 awg
8 awg
6 awg
4 awg
2 awg
1 awg (after 1awg, numbers go the other way and end with "aught"
1/0 aught
2/0 aught
3/0 aught
4/0 aught
@@SlipFitGarage Thank you!
There metric dies Mate.
We measure our cable sizes in mm in Australia Europe and the UK
Yeah, I've been told that now several times now in this comment section. Thanks for the reply.
They indeed look great, but making a cut to check is alas the WRONG test... (eye test)... you need to pull the lug with a certain x Nm that should exceed the national norm (like euro NEN or VDE).
We do high voltage cabling and the crimp tool is hydraulic and calibrated in Nm's as to firm is bad as well. Most people think fix = fix... well it is not, as it cuts in the wires on the edge end of the lug.
And the sizes in the box refer to mm-squared.
Yeah, I get it. This is a cheap Chinese crimper. If someone was doing crimping professionally in a commercial or industrial setting.... they certainly will NOT be using a Chinese crimper..... and I never suggested this was good enough for that. But if you're making your own battery cables for heavy trucks or equipment, or heavy cables for a DIY solar system, (for example) then this crimper will probably be just fine. It's OBVIOUSLY not a calibrated tool. Anyone can see that. lol. It's a $50 dollar crimper. The crimper you use probably cost 40X the price of this one (maybe more?) and I KNOW your crimper does a better job. You get what you pay for. lolol. And yeah, the sizes are metric. It's been mentioned many times in this comment section. Thank you for the comment.
The cut test is more than enough to show a good crimp for DIY purposes
You should see the rubbish anvil style crimpers DIY'ers use on battery lugs
Hello, thanks good review video. I have a question, Can be rotate head unit? Or not?
excellent video, thank you sir!
Thank you!
For a 70mm lug would you use the 70?, thats what i used recently with my new crimper, i think it could be tighter, or maybe i need to do few more pumps when its tight.
Sorry, I do not work in "mm" when it comes to wire/cable. I work in AWG sizing..... Other people in this comment section have commented that the sizes marked on the crimp dies are indeed metric. Take that for what it's worth. Also, once the dies make contact while crimping, extra pumps will not make the crimp tighter. Once the dies are bottomed out against each other, it's done! You could try a SAMPLE crimp with the next die size down if you still think the crimp should be tighter. Just be sure to experiment with scrap cable and fittings before crimping the real thing. Good luck. Thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage i used to use the other one before i think its called its yQk handheld one, what i do find with this new one is the dies have a little play in them once they are on the crimper, what i might do is put a thin flat metal pieces either side so they don't move as much when crimping otherwise the bottom crimp and top crimp aren't always in line with each other.
@@sahajankhan1436 Yes, I have noticed that also. I just usually get the dies somewhat tight when starting a crimp, then make sure the dies are aligned correctly, then finish the crimp. If you make shims to align the dies that would be even better.
If it don't seem quite tight enough. Just crimp again with next smallest die.
@@MrRatkilr This is an old post, I'm pretty much an expert now lol.
The dies are not impact-rated. The metal plating is the giveaway. True impact rated dies are black and will not peel or delaminate. I bought a Temco crimper, which appears to be make in the US.
Never claimed they were impact rated.... good thing it's not an impact tool. Congrats on your brand name crimper.... I'm sure you paid a brand name price, too. Don't get me wrong, I love high quality tools and I don't mind paying a lot more money for higher quality. But I also don't need to buy the "best" of everything. Stuff I use on a daily basis I will absolutely buy the highest quality money can buy. But for tools I only need to maybe use 2 or 3 times, I can sacrifice quality to save a thousand bucks.
$90. I read up on the comparisons between the low price imports and the professional grade tools. Check out Temco. They offer everything electrical for the industrial user to the single tradesman at very competitive prices, and their selection is vast. Terminals, heat shrink, lugs, butt connectors, wire, cable you name it.
Any idea how to odd oil? I've managed one crimp, so oil leaked from the switch and now the piston won't press
I will have to physically look at my crimper tool to see where the oil fill Port is before I can specifically answer the question. I will post back here in a day or two when I have a chance to look at my crimper.
@@SlipFitGarage I found it, the main handle unscrew and there's a plug that can be removed to fill up. I ended up having to fully disassemble mine and rebuild it to get it working again.
As of today, is the crimper still working well?
Yep, still works great. I dont use it every day, but I've probably used it 2 or 3 times since I filmed this video. Works great...
@@SlipFitGarage Thanks. Great to hear, for a Chinese crimper on 4/0. This is damn good.
Is it still working after 2 years?
Yes it is..... I don't use it every day, but I do use it a few time per year. And actually, if I'm not mistaken, it's been over 3 years now and it still working good. Thanks for the question.
Nicely constructed video.
But at 0:09 you can see the cable printing showing AWG 4/0 (103mm²). 103mm² is just the direct conversion to metric from the cable maker because there are no 103mm² wires in Europe. There are 95 or 120mm².
A 120mm² gauge is of course not going to compress the lug over 103mm² wire, so 95mm² is your best bet.
I have to smile when you don't know what the die sizes mean. If they are clearly not AWG, what else could they be....?!
They could be some other form of measurement that I have never seen before. Ever. I have never done electrical work outside of the USA so why is that such a surprise to you? Why would I study metric wire sizing when, 1) I am not an electrician by trade, and 2) I have NEVER seen any wire or cable sold here in the US marked with metric sizing? Learning about something that I will NEVER see in real life seems like a waste of time to me. I am glad you found it amusing. lol. Also, thank you for the compliment at the beginning of your comment.
4/0 is 107 so 95 sounds more reasonable than 120.
Yep, for AWG choose the closest size but don't automatically bottom out the dies, you want to avoid creating "ears" on the crimped lug
@@scod3908 I think my crimper has markings for both systems or maybe it is the cables that are intended for battery connection only come in pretty simular metric sizes to AWG. Mine is the smaller type though maybe maximum of 1/0 or something
I'm going to guess the numbers on the die (s?) are in millimeters square.
Yep, I think you're correct. Thanks for the comment.
Yes it's simillar of awg in metric. 35mm square equivalent to 2 awg
Excellent!
Thank you!
Interesting post and yup, looks like you got a very decent crimp. The 35 and 120 are standard metric cable sections. I`m guessing you will have standard sizes of 16 - 25 -- 35 - 50 - 70 - 95 - 120 - 150 which are standard metric cable sections in mm2.
Would you use this crimper for mains voltage cables at a large control panel though? Might be a bit of a `leap of faith` where the consequences and cost of a bad crimp would be dramatic. I`d dip out and use a tried and tested crimper just to sleep easy! I might be wrong though and could be underestimating the quality of the product.
It's been a while since I made the video (I should re-watch it) but I seem to remember saying basically what you said. If I was crimping mains in a commercial panel where I needed to use certified crimp terminals with the correct corresponding crimper then no.... I would use the high end brand name equipment. But then again, If I was doing that job in the first place, I would be charging accordingly so the cost of those terminal and tools would be included in the price of the job..... For your own hobby stuff such as solar systems and battery cables, etc... I think this is fine. Again, if I was doing this type of work professionally, "for-hire" I would absolutely be using the the brand name equipment. No question. Especially since the customer is ultimately paying for the tools and supplies anyway....
Where i can buy this crimping tools how much 16 mm too 300mm
where do you buy replacement seals?
It comes with one set of replacement seals, as shown in the video. Otherwise go to any worthwhile hydraulic shop and I'm sure they could help you out.
i wonder if this can be used to crimp air hose
I doubt it. It is NOT designed to crimp any type of tubing or hose fittings.
LOL. If you close your eyes and just listen, it sounds like J.K. Simmons talking…. You know, J. Joanh Jameson from Spider-Man, Whiplash, etc…?? LOL!
I had another commenter mention that same thing a while back..... I personally don't hear the similarities but then again, most of us hear ourselves differently than others hear us when we talk. Thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage NP. He’s a favorite of mine, so it was great to visualize that! Great vid. Doing a similar project currently and I got the Temco Hammer Crimper, but I’m going to borrow a friends hydraulic after watching this. Thanks!
Thanks again, and good luck with your project!
Thanks
You're welcome.
is square milimeters cross section.
Yep, a bunch of people in this comment section have already corrected me. Thank you.
@@SlipFitGarage I suspected so but didnt have time to check. IT's a brilliant tool though I have a simular one and I would never want to do it with the mechanical or hammer operated one after using it. Something very satisfying about controlling so much power with such precision.
95mm2 equals 3/0 cable. 4/0 cable equals 120mm2.
Thanks.
What size die would you use on a 2/0 cable? Thanks
@@ptcaulfield I believe 70mm is in order
You do only one crimp?
In the video? Yes, I only did one crimp. However, feel free do do as many crimps as your lug (fitting) allows. If there is room for two crimps, do two.
@@SlipFitGarage Thank You!. Looks like the die size may vary also depending on the thickness of the lug. You choose the one that will fit the best on the lug?
35 square mm's it's a metric tool. all metric wire is measured in square mm's
Right. It's been mentioned several times already in this comment section. Also, I've never seen an inch of metric wire here in the USA. We go by American Wire Gauge. Thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage Toyota, Honda, Subaru, and Nissan? Never worked on them?
@@fatcamp907
Lol, Of course I have.... but I've never needed a cable crimper that big on an import vehicle. I was talking about residential, commercial, and industrial wiring here in the US.
The "instruction sheet" or "owner's manual" tells "35 what"
Is this a question or a comment? lol
Anyone ever try this tool on hydraulic hose?
This tool IS NOT designed to crimp ANY hydraulic hose fittings. This is a wire crimper ONLY. Hydraulic fittings have a very specific crimp spec. (Measured by the thousandth of an inch, .001) In fact hydraulic crimp fittings are manufactured to work with a specific type/brand of hydraulic hose and they should never be mismatched. Infact, most hydraulic crimping machines are designed to work with a specific brand of hose and fittings. For example.... if you have Parker brand crimp fittings, they are specifically designed to be crimped onto Parker brand hose... and are usually crimped with a Parker brand crimper. Everything is engineered to work together to provide a SAFE crimp that will last without leaking. The same can be said with any other brand of hydraulic fittings/hose/crimper. The dies on this WIRE crimper do not evenly close together in a 360 radius like a hydraulic crimper, and the dies are also not deep enough to properly crimp the entire collar (crimp area) of a typical hydraulic fitting. Please DO NOT try crimping hydraulic fittings with this WIRE crimper. The end result would be very dangerous and most certainly leak like crazy. A propper hydraulic fitting crimper, and this WIRE crimper have absolutely NOTHING in common. Thanks for the question.
I knew it is for wiring, but like lots of other things, I have used certain tools for other applications. But the dies on this tool is quite thin. Even if you could make it work, it would have to be doubled up or crimped two times right beside one another. I'd assume given the need of very close application, you could use this in a pinch but certian care as to not crush the inner coupler or just do as I intended and source an actual crimp tool for hydraulic applications.
@@bendent9002
Hydraulic hose has a wire reinforcement layer between the rubber layers. If the fitting is not crimped exactly right, those wires inside the crimp can/will break and the crimp will be very weak, and very dangerous! We have no way of knowing if the wires get broken during the crimp process... thats why we use fittings/hose/crimper dies/crimper that were engineered to work together and provide a proper crimp without breaking the reinforcement wire layer. I can almost guarantee the dies on this wire crimper will crush a hudraulic fitting in such a way that at least some, if not all reinforcement wires inside the hydraulic hose will be broken or at least somewhat compromised. Its not the outside of the crimp that is important, its what's happening on the inside during the crimp that really matters. This wire crimper CANNOT provide a safe hydraulic crimp. Its not even remotely possible.
@@SlipFitGarage well that's a resounding "No"! 🤣👍
@@whatyousaidbud
I just wanted to be sure I was very clear. I did not want anyone to read my reply and walk away thinking there "might be a chance" it could work.... Its like that scene in the original "Dumb and Dumber" movie:
th-cam.com/video/9ZYg4ZbcOPQ/w-d-xo.html
😁
35 square, 95square .. 35mm2,
Yes, it has been mentioned many times in this comment section. Thank you.
35mm
?
I got one crimp out of this before it broke. Useless garbage.
Did you buy it through Amazon? Send it back for another one....
@@SlipFitGarage I already managed to fix it. There was a burr inside one of the oil passages.
@@CoreMaster111
Oh, gotcha. So, maybe it's not useless garbage?
@@SlipFitGarage If the first thing is fixing it then it's not really far from being garbage. Otherwise I would have returned it.