High-Power Battery Pack in a 3D Printed Case | Samsung EV Modules
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video, I slap together two 12s/44V Samsung EV modules (used in the Nissan leaf & BMW i3) to make a 86V nominal, 50Ah battery pack in a 3D printed case which holds the BMS, beefy QS10 discharge connector, voltmeter & charge indicator. The completed pack also has a handle to allow top-loading to an electric motorcycle. The finished pack has 4.3kWh of energy and a peak discharge of ~400A.
Need help with your battery pack build?
calendly.com/gaiusgarage
Dimensions: 400 x 220 x 160mm
3D printed parts:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadge...
Samsung EV modules:
x.alibaba.com/Av99Wg
(I didn't buy mine here, this is just a link to a random vendor that I found on Alibaba - no guarantee they are reputable)
400A ANT BMS used in this pack:
www.aliexpress.us/item/325680...
0:00 - Intro
1:03 - Making the balance wire harness
4:59 - Temperature sensors
6:15 - Connecting the modules in series
8:17 - Making bus bars for the BMS
12:53 - Making the bus bar to connect modules in series
15:29 - Standoff bracket
16:12 - Some design..challenges..
17:49 - Lift handle anchor brackets
20:12 - Preparing the discharge connector
23:02 - Test fit for cover
23:57 - Placing battery pack into 3D printed case
24:31 - Final cover assembly
25:09 - Attaching the cover to battery pack
26:27 - Closing the cover
26:57 - Done
27:27 - That's a huge b*tch! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This had to be the best looking ebike battery I’ve seen, it’d be dope to modify the top of the enduro frame to allow it to be visible. Similar to Sur Ron
Thank you! actually this is for a electric motorcycle and is top-loaded like a Sur-Ron - check out my Instagram. video on that build coming soon!
This saves so much time over building using individual cells and spot welding
yeah that was another reason I went with these; laziness
top notch design/fab skills right here, good job!!
Thanks so much! I've watch a bunch of your videos. Your VW conversion was one of the first diy EV videos that got me into all of this stuff so it much appreciated!
Exlent battry design sir. I love it
Great Design and build - Thanks for showing
Thank you!
Great work. Thank you - and for using metric descriptions.
Thank you! Metric all the way 🎉
You deserve so many more subscribers. Just found you and love your videos
thanks so much! I'll be posting a video of the KLX 2.0 rebuilt. have a bunch of clips from that on my Instagram
Hi Gaius, i love the high power crazy stuff you do, it's a dream
appreciate it man! Thank you
just wanna say waauuuwww great job looks awsome
One of the best battery jobs i ever seen ❤ looks amazing
Thank you!
Great video and great design! Just found your channel, subbed.
Thank you!
Nice idea to use stock battery modules. ❤
Thing of beauty.
This battery pack is next level. I didn't expect anything less from you, as I have seen your other work. Some more of that kaptan tape on the bottom to protect the balanced wires from the frame may be better than the electrical tape. Some people like to solder the hydraulic crimp connectors After they crimp them to keep moisture and air out.
Thanks! thats a good idea about soldering after crimping. I did see some people will solder the strand before they crimp but I did some research and found that its actually not as good - you want the copper strands to be free to arranged themselves naturally into the crimp. soldering afterwards would be good to keep moisture out but it would also create a solid spot at the base of the lugs that will create a weak point over time if the wire flexes. in this case, it would not so I may just go back and do that!
That last audio clip from Deuce Bigalow: Male Gigolo had me dying!🤣
Really really nicely done! Did you end up getting a handle on it ? Did you use the same posts as the original "Crappy" temperory handle?
Can't wait to see more ! Super cool!!
no I never really found a nylon or leather handle to replace the crappy one. but I didn't look very hard either. but if I do find one it would use those same posts as they are bound to the structural mounting points of the packs
Excellent build, videos and channel! Very much enjoying seeing quality builds and very much looking forward to more episodes. I'm curious how bad a shock you got from the 84 volts? I did a lot of industrial electrical work up to 35KV and the the only time I was what you might call 'electrocuted' was on a 125V DC. My hands literally tightened up on two leads and could not will my arms or hands to get loose, I could taste and feel the current on my tongue and my heart stop. As I started to pass-out I fell of a ladder and was disconnected. If you ever do an episode on electrical safety I'd be happy to contribute my 2 cents worth.
At 8:17 , for limiting solder wicking on large fine stranded connections, I might suggest you try coating the section you would like to remain flexible with high temp varnish, Silicone RTV or glass cloth tape in some cases can stop the wicking. I used 3M Glass Cloth Electrical Tape #27 for years in industrial applications, motor and generator builds and terminations. I use Scotch 27 on EV battery builds, as it's more robust and durable than Kapton tape and less likely to abrade.
Also, I might suggest considering fusing the packs in addition to the BMS. Typically in industrial applications with have high supply current potential, Fuses are uses for short-circuit protection in addition to overload protection such as a circuit breaker or BMS, where high transient short-circuit currents could exceed the current interrupting capacity of circuit breakers or contactors, and weld contacts closed, a short-circuit protection can prevent subsequent catastrophic events. Perhaps in this pack build a fuse could be installed in place of a buss bar or lug.
Cheers!
Thanks for this very thoughtful comment and excellent tips! Ive actually copy-pasted this comment to follow up on the techniques you suggested. I'm likely going to take this pack out of the bike in the near future, pull off the cover, and inspect it for wear, now that Ive been using it for a little bit. I'll look into adding a fuse of some sort if I can fit one.
Crazy story about getting electrocuted! Thats a real close call. The way I got zapped was for fortunate because I was not holding on to the conductors with both hands, but rather was fiddling with one of the bus bar terminals on the BMS while the back of that same hand contacted the other one. I definitely felt the jolt throughout my forearm and was able to easily pull away. But its definitely a bad situation because, for one, I was pretty sweaty so skin impedance was lower and it was my left arm which is closer to the heart. I started always wearing gloves after that. Its easy to get complacent, but it takes a very low current to cause fibrillation in the heart. Its only for the fact that skin is such a poor conductor that we can survive these events in the first place. But of course that has a myriad of caveats. I do want to make a safety video on this topic at some point..its not such an intuitive thing once you get into the nitty gritty.
Cheers to you as well!
very nice work, and excellent video, thank you
Nice
Beautiful build! I really got to get a 3D printer to upgrade my builds. Did you use the male QS10 connecter on the battery side? shouldn't that be the female connector? It seems prone to shorts.
Great build. What filament did you use? its got a great finish at the end.
Thanks! It's PETG but I sanded it after
I found you today and this battery is awesome. What are the de mentions for this battery. Great work. Very impressive.
Thanks so much!
Cool build! Can I ask what charger you use for this pack?
perfect pack for a 140k/h electric bike
Very nice custom battery! I’m designing a case also for my first battery. One question: on your bottom 3D printed casing, how thick are the walls? I designed mine to be 2,5mm but it will take almost a day and a half for printing with a 0,6 nozzle 😂😂
I actually don't remember the wall thickness but it's something like 3-4mm
Heyo, great video thank you for publishing it!
Can you comment on the “direction” of the QS10 connector? Shouldn’t the energised side be the female side so that there aren’t exposed conductors when the battery is not connected?
yes, you are correct. the reason I have the male connector on the power side is because it is easier to embed into the case cover since it's a more uniform surface to make a secure fit around the outside of the connector. it would have been more difficult to design the case cover to accommodate the female side. theres definitely a slightly greater risk to short the terminals with the male connector but I also made a 3d printed safety insert to place in the connector when the battery is sitting idle and of course there's no risk when the female side is plugged in.
Excellent video! Where did you get your battery modules? I absolutely LOVE that battery box!! Would you care to share your 3D print files?
I've always used Nord-Lock washers for enclosed battery box connections instead of thread sealer.
Again, fantastic video. Thank you!
Thank you! If you look closely I actually am using nord-lock washer in addition to lock-tite. I picked up the modules on batteryhookup.com but they no longer have them in stock. There is a link in the description to these modules on Alibaba and Im sure you can find them from other sellers as well. Link to 3D printed files is in the description as well.
@@GaiusGarage Very cool, man. Thanks for sharing. I didn't even look for the files. I have two conversions in the queue but I've always wanted to do a street bike. Your video is an inspiration that it can be done cleanly and not look dumb.
@@billbayer5526Much appreciated! Yeah I made reasonabls effort to keep it clean and decent looking without the project dragging any more than it already had. Definitely satisfied with the result
I have look at so many 3D printers boxes. This one is hands down the best built. I’m a American living in Ukraine. I have started to build custom cargo bikes. My motor is a qs 205 5T. My batteries box hold 24s-12p. I would love to have a few parts 3D printed. Save me money and time building them. Any chance I could share my pictures with you? And I would really appreciate any help you would be willing to offer!
Again fantastic job.
You have to start to Salle this battery packs
I hope you see this comment cause I am trying to figure this out. I "inherited" my dads motorcycle a 1979 Kawasaki KZ650 and its in rough shape. I want to convert it into an EV which I think my dad would have loved. Anyways, I am having a hard time figuring out which cells to go with. I want to build roughly a 15kw battery pack for this thing, go big or go home kind of deal. I want to get anywhere between 250 to 300 miles or more out of a single charge. My thinking on this is I want it to fill almost the entire area the original engine fits in, and put the controller and everything else under the now useless fuel tank, or in the seat compartment. I think a 10kw motor will suffice for what I want to build this thing for, not a sport bike just a cruiser. Any idea on the type of cells I should use for this build?
I can help you choose cells and design the battery pack but would need some more details about your project. please feel free to book a Calendly session. I have a link in the description. a 15 min session might be ok and I would be able to provide you with some useful info but in my experience those tend not to be enough time for technical issues like this. the 30 minute session would probably be best calendly.com/gaiusgarage/30-min-consult
Bro plz make battery pack for ebike for long range to cover 🙏 ❤
Very impressive, I like your work ! I was looking to build a bag back battery for my CYC motor Ebike, any advices ? (It will be a 52v nom system, I looking for the range)
Thank you. 52V is 14s, then add as many in parallel as you can for max capacity. don't buy high-power cells as they will have less capacity
Thank you 🙏
Nicely designed and built pack. Where did you get the plugs that fit the battery BMS connectors?
I think Amazon - just search QS10 connector
@@GaiusGarage Thanks. Edit: Oops, not those.
@@GaiusGarage I meant the small multi pin orange and black connectors that plug into the original BMS connections on the Samsung battery.
@@JRP3 oh, those came with the modules
@@GaiusGarage Mine didn't unfortunately.
Have you met your local Randonneurs? Not sure if they'd want you to join up with an e-bike though lol.
Great build! Any chance you are willing to share the cad designs of the brackets and case? I have the exact same modules and would love to encase them. Id be willing to compensate you. For your efforts.
Thank you! Yes, I have them on Cults 3d here: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/samsung-sdi-battery-case-bundle
@@GaiusGarage thank you very much!
@@GaiusGarage just out of curiousity. what printer did you use for this? my bambu p1p is too small for it :D
@@user-in9ld1ub6fI had a Bambu X1 also, unfortunately too small for these prints. I used an Ender 5 plus
where would i pick up some of these? im considering converting one of thoes china made 250s i got for nothing and trying to do it on a tight budget
I added a link to these modules to the description
@@GaiusGarage ok thanks
Great work. Will it be possible for you to provide the Alibaba link?
x.alibaba.com/Av58NG
This may be a dumb question but is there a way I can use 2 72v 3000w batteries instead of one and get it to only pull 2500-watt from each one instead of buying a new 5000w battery
yes, if you connect them in parallel, the power being drawn from each will be half of the total load. you would just have to make sure they are of similar capacity and discharge rating. then make sure the voltage is very close when you connect them
Those are not a high power cells. The really high power series cells are 37ah, not 48-50ah. A have 37ah and 48-50ah and I can say that first can handle 6C or more, but those with more amphours are restricted to 3-4C max...
Those are the continuous ratings but I think you can pull 6C for a few secs. I've had this pack pulling up to 340A during heavy acceleration without too much voltage drop or heat buildup. Although current under normal riding conditions is about 100A at most so definitely versatile enough for the application. I've never really tried stressing them too hard for too long
Hi, I am building a large battery pack . It is( 2) 24s 11p for 22p total with LG M50lt 5ah cells. 2 L shaped batteries. Anyhow I noticed most people use some high temp. Yellow color fiberglass in their builds, and some don't? Is this important 🤔?? It's going in a mega scooter. Just looking for some build advice.
They can do 100A continues and 300a peak for 25sec
Link or model of the BMS you used? I know it's a 400amp peak ANT BMS, but I'm just looking for some more details for my similar-ish build!
I added the link to the description
Thanks!!
Hey what software are you using for designing this battery housing??
Fusion 360
I didnt realise how cheap you can get lithum until I saw this video
2300 for a sur ron battery seems ridic
yeah it's possible to source battery pack for much cheaper than what EBMX and Chai battery systems are charging for their packs. What you're paying for is the R&D they've done to provide you with a production-grade product. EBMX batteries are potted, for example, and sealed in a stainless steel case, which does have the potential to reduce the damage done from a fire. They're definitely well-engineered products, so it's really up to you to decide whether that's worth the premium. If I had money to burn, I would go with EBMX or Chai, but as someone who's budget-conscious, DIY is kinda the only option
@@GaiusGarage I don't think these are ness worse than the ebmx both this and the ebmx with lipo pouch cells from Korea have usually been used for electric hybrid applications
I'd say the ebmx is safer since you can look at user feedback and see how it works amongst a population of people and feel safe i guess
15kw max bms with those packs tho
Where did you get those modules?
Picked these up on batteryhookup.com but they are out of stock now. They are available on Alibaba
400 amp is continuous discharge or it is peak discharge?
peak
@@GaiusGarage 👍
What type of filament is used for the case?
I used PETG - PETG-CF would also be a good choice
@@GaiusGarage Thank you, appreciated
Where’d you get the batteries from?
batteryhookup.com but they are out of stock. you can find these on Alibaba
@@GaiusGarage thanks!
Great video btw. I’m compiling info to build a LiPo battery for my golf cart. (You should do that next!)
Any interest in making/selling an identical battery pack?
yeah I'd be open to it. message me on Instagram @gaiusgarage
where can i buy those samsung modules ?
They are available on Alibaba. Just search Samsung SDI EV module
@@GaiusGarage thsnks 👍
@@GaiusGarageGreat work. Will it be possible for you to provide the Alibaba link?
@@julioalvarez1549 x.alibaba.com/Av57dI
Hi What are the dimensions of this pack?
400 x 220 x 160mm
What the dimensions of this battery pack?
approx. 400 x 230 x 170mm
Will it fit a surron?
@@Akerlie1 unlikely that it would. probably too big
@@GaiusGarage I think so too. Any plans making a 72v surron battery in the future? Buying a 72 v battery costs 3000 euros. Im planning using a fardriver 72680, 280 vtc6 cells and ant bms.
@@Akerlie1 yeah I was thinking about designing a pack for the Sur-Ron. the ones I see on the market are super expensive like you said
Do U sell this?
no this was just a one time build for this bike. but I do have the 3D print files for sale. link in description
I dont think you want to connect the negative of the first module to the positive of the second module.
how come?
Hi is this battery for your qs205 bike? Any increase in top speed from your other pack?
no this is for the KLX 250 build. I haven't posted the video yet but I have it on my Instagram @gaiusgarage
Can you link your insta again? You must’ve changed your name
@gaiusgarage