This is excellent and straight to the point. I had this exact same unit come today and sort of speed read the instruction book because it didn't make much sense. Thank you for posting this, it was the perfect manual 👍👍
At 7:17, why is it necessary to change the amps setting to 3A? What does that do exactly? The OCP had previously (4:55) been set to 10 A but then disabled (changed from 1 to 0).
I think I get it. With OCP disabled (or with OCP enabled but set to a high value) and with the "regular" current value set to 3A, if the load tries to draw more than 3A, the voltage will drop accordingly to keep the current fixed at 3A.
I just used this PSU (borrowed from a local friend) to inject voltage to find a shorted part on a circuit board. It seems to have a strange auto-detection of constant voltage or constant current and switches between them at will based on voltage and current (not what you want for voltage injection). I wanted to pump in 3V at 5A and check what got hot but it kept the volts at 3V and dropped the amps to 0.7A. The only way I was able to get the CC light to come on was by increasing the voltage to 5.2V and then adjusting the current up to 1.351A. That was enough to heat up the part and I found it with my finger. If I changed the amps to 1.352A it would switch back to constant voltage mode and the CV light would come on. Very frustrating! It's a very strange design and not easy to understand as the manual is pure Chinglish and doesn't make sense. Also, thanks for explaining what the OPN mode does. The manual has no mention of what it actually does, only the method to set it. You wouldn't actually know what it does unless you turn it off then on and the output then comes on automatically. The function of OPN or what OPN means wasn't obvious to me. Because of that auto switching mode I would stay away from this PSU and look for one that can be hard set to constant current mode and stays there when doing voltage injection for repairs.
do you prefer the Jesverty SPS-3010H style or the JESVERTY SPS-3010X style for useability? I thought JESVERTY SPS-3010X was newer but guess not. I like USB C addition, all other features seem the same
I have the same question. I pushed buttons and turned knobs. Apparently it is not changeable. Mine shows 33.00V OVP "1" (always on). I cannot change the voltage or toggle 1 to 0.
@@paulshibbs I returned it because the fan would cycle on/off with 500mA load which is every annoying for me. These use cheaper heat sink unlike original aluminium plate the size of PCB.
It will be outputing CC until it hits preset voltage. For example if you charging Lithium batteries, you set say 2A current and 4.2v, so while the battery doesn’t reach preset voltage it will be getting 2A of current regardless of voltage. When it charges up voltage will increase until it hits you preset setting and from then it will be maintaining voltage instead of current
I had the same issue on the unit I just loaned from a local friend. It has an auto-switching thing flicking between CV and CC based on the voltage or current. To find a short, if you want to inject voltage say 3.3V at 5A, when powering on it will drop the current (in my case it was 0.7A). To get higher current and turn on the CC LED you have to put the voltage up and then it will switch to CC mode and you can adjust the amps up a bit. But at some point it will switch back to CV mode, whereby you must increase voltage again. It's pretty stupid and this is a major issue when doing voltage injection. I wanted to just inject 3.3V at 5A and it actually outputted 3.3v at 0.7A and there was no way to switch it to CC mode except by increasing the voltage. Poor design, stay away from it and find something better with hard-set CV or CC mode and without that silly auto switching mode.
Rick nice review. However you did not address the input power specification is only 110Vac +/- 5% which is not sufficient for the typical U.S. Power. My power is provided by Edison in Southern California which states that input power for utilization equipment is 120Vac nominal with a range of (115Vac to 125Vac) which is outside this units input power specifications. If these units are really only specified for 110Vac +/- 5% this is a real problem. Do you think it is just a print error and it should really be 110Vac +/- 15%? Hope you can verify the correct input specification.
I could set *V*, and I could set *A* but as soon as I pressed the green button for *W* then the *A* went to zero and even the *V* would start dropping on the multi meter display. I find it unintuitive and *extremely* user *unfriendly* and unless I have a major breakthrough by Sunday 1st December (it's presently just turned 30 November) then this piece of junk is being RMA to the seller. The manual is far king gibberish IMO! Just a lot of alphabet letters joined together by acronyms.
Open it up lets look inside, great review on operations.
Did you find out how it looks inside?
Thank you. The user manual is pretty "terse" and your demonstration helped immensely.
yeah, the word is 'chinglish' lol
Cheers for this - the translation in the manual wasn't great, so needed someone to explain it for me.
This is excellent and straight to the point. I had this exact same unit come today and sort of speed read the instruction book because it didn't make much sense.
Thank you for posting this, it was the perfect manual 👍👍
Hi, did you take the cover off to see the insides? Perhaps you can share a few pictures, I am sure many will appreciate it. Than you.
At 7:17, why is it necessary to change the amps setting to 3A? What does that do exactly? The OCP had previously (4:55) been set to 10 A but then disabled (changed from 1 to 0).
I think I get it. With OCP disabled (or with OCP enabled but set to a high value) and with the "regular" current value set to 3A, if the load tries to draw more than 3A, the voltage will drop accordingly to keep the current fixed at 3A.
@@ericjones7300 yeah that's the over-current-protection setting that will trigger OCP if the current goes over the set number.
I just used this PSU (borrowed from a local friend) to inject voltage to find a shorted part on a circuit board. It seems to have a strange auto-detection of constant voltage or constant current and switches between them at will based on voltage and current (not what you want for voltage injection). I wanted to pump in 3V at 5A and check what got hot but it kept the volts at 3V and dropped the amps to 0.7A. The only way I was able to get the CC light to come on was by increasing the voltage to 5.2V and then adjusting the current up to 1.351A. That was enough to heat up the part and I found it with my finger. If I changed the amps to 1.352A it would switch back to constant voltage mode and the CV light would come on. Very frustrating! It's a very strange design and not easy to understand as the manual is pure Chinglish and doesn't make sense. Also, thanks for explaining what the OPN mode does. The manual has no mention of what it actually does, only the method to set it. You wouldn't actually know what it does unless you turn it off then on and the output then comes on automatically. The function of OPN or what OPN means wasn't obvious to me. Because of that auto switching mode I would stay away from this PSU and look for one that can be hard set to constant current mode and stays there when doing voltage injection for repairs.
do you prefer the Jesverty SPS-3010H style or the JESVERTY SPS-3010X style for useability? I thought JESVERTY SPS-3010X was newer but guess not. I like USB C addition, all other features seem the same
Thank you for a great review. Does it also have OVP if you press and hold Voltage? Someone said it shows 33v, can you adjust it?
I have the same question. I pushed buttons and turned knobs. Apparently it is not changeable. Mine shows 33.00V OVP "1" (always on). I cannot change the voltage or toggle 1 to 0.
@@paulshibbs I returned it because the fan would cycle on/off with 500mA load which is every annoying for me. These use cheaper heat sink unlike original aluminium plate the size of PCB.
Can't figure how to switch to constant current mode. Can you help?
It will be outputing CC until it hits preset voltage. For example if you charging Lithium batteries, you set say 2A current and 4.2v, so while the battery doesn’t reach preset voltage it will be getting 2A of current regardless of voltage. When it charges up voltage will increase until it hits you preset setting and from then it will be maintaining voltage instead of current
I had the same issue on the unit I just loaned from a local friend. It has an auto-switching thing flicking between CV and CC based on the voltage or current. To find a short, if you want to inject voltage say 3.3V at 5A, when powering on it will drop the current (in my case it was 0.7A). To get higher current and turn on the CC LED you have to put the voltage up and then it will switch to CC mode and you can adjust the amps up a bit. But at some point it will switch back to CV mode, whereby you must increase voltage again. It's pretty stupid and this is a major issue when doing voltage injection. I wanted to just inject 3.3V at 5A and it actually outputted 3.3v at 0.7A and there was no way to switch it to CC mode except by increasing the voltage. Poor design, stay away from it and find something better with hard-set CV or CC mode and without that silly auto switching mode.
Rick nice review. However you did not address the input power specification is only 110Vac +/- 5% which is not sufficient for the typical U.S. Power. My power is provided by Edison in Southern California which states that input power for utilization equipment is 120Vac nominal with a range of (115Vac to 125Vac) which is outside this units input power specifications. If these units are really only specified for 110Vac +/- 5% this is a real problem. Do you think it is just a print error and it should really be 110Vac +/- 15%? Hope you can verify the correct input specification.
Great job on the instructions and usage. You make it look simple going thru all the cool features this Power Supply has.
I am a power supply manufacturing factory,
You need to come find me.
I could set *V*, and I could set *A* but as soon as I pressed the green button for *W* then the *A* went to zero and even the *V* would start dropping on the multi meter display.
I find it unintuitive and *extremely* user *unfriendly* and unless I have a major breakthrough by Sunday 1st December (it's presently just turned 30 November) then this piece of junk is being RMA to the seller.
The manual is far king gibberish IMO! Just a lot of alphabet letters joined together by acronyms.