I used that, along with sound deadening - by Dodo - but I was freezing in the winter months. So, I'm doubling up now and using the plastic bottle bubble stuff as well.
I used thinsulate too. Originally I was set on using spray foam for the r value but I changed my mind because it seemed to permanent, it could potentially warp the van panels, and I was worried about plugging up the drain holes in the wall panels. I’ve been super happy with thinsulate so far. I put two layers in the walls and one layer in the ceiling.
We slept in our ProMaster before any modifications, moving across the country. When it was 28 degrees one morning, I would have loved two layers of insulation in my walls! 🤣
Seven O mentions an R Value of 3.2, but there's missing information here, and with @Ian Memory's comments above. The Thinsulate comes in several thicknesses and therefore, R ratings: SM200, SM300, and SM600. 600... which I believe is the most popular , due to it being the thickest, is likely what is getting the 3.2 R value. Once unrolled, it expands to about 1.5" in "loft." I put 1 layer of 600 in my Sprinter, and with the extra, put it on the ceiling. Instead of what I thought was wasting Thinsulate under the cab headliner, I put three sheets of the Noico sound deadener underneath, and then stuffed the cavity full of old Reflectix.
@@jasonrepkodotcom Thanks for the insulation info. I just bought my van for conversion and am being told to get R14 throughout - walls, floor, and ceiling. Is that overkill? The Thinsulate doesn't even come close and it's very expensive. I do like the qualities and the ease of installation of the Thinsulate. Not sure what to do on this matter. There's so much to learn about in this conversion project.
Good video. Clear cut without all the drama! Only helpful comment would be when videoing have the sun behind you. That scene at the back of the van looked like one of those "scary" intergalactic "black holes".
i did buy this insulation with your recommendation - i love it , it is great. I used tacky glue using a brush for adhering to ceiling and walls. Thank you for the advice! i am still not sold on covering my rear windows.
@@seven_o_savage I'm being told that I should use foam board insulation with an R 14 on the ceiling, walls, and floor. The Thinsulate looks good for it's water resistant properties and ease of installation, but its R rating isn't even close to R14, how does the Thinsulate work when temps drop down to zero or below? Also, someone else mentioned that all of the metal in the camper area of the truck should have a layer of insulation - no uninsulated metal or those uninsulated areas will collect condensation, can you comment on this? Is that a legitimate concern? I want to make sure that if I'm ever stranded somewhere in the winter, I'm not regretting my choice of materials. Your videos are helping me so much, thank you for sharing this process.
I went with closed cell spray foam, it's 'R' value is 6.9 and is an amazing sound deadener, plus it doesn't need a vapour barrier and strengthens the structure by around 400%. The surface dries in under 5 minutes stopping any gasses coming out and in 24 hours the whole area is solid and has zero air bubbles so gives off zero gasses. DON'T use open cell spray foam as it gives off gasses and soaks up water like a sponge.
@@dattran6372 If it were open cell then yes that would be a problem but closed cell spray foam also acts as an adhesive and wont come off walls/ceiling or floors unless you scrape it up with a blade. We've been using it in shipping container conversions for many many years and have zero issues with it doing any of the things you've said.
I am sorry but you have faulty information. Closed cell foam does off gas especially at the temperatures that are normal conditions for the inside of a vehicle, well over 100 F, which is far hotter than in a house which the foam was designed for. Not only does it off gas, it is not a vapor barrier, and in fact, it is also not water proof. Closed cell foam not only will allow water in, it actually attracts moisture from the air and holds it inside it, which promotes rust in your vehicle as it holds moisture right next to your metal. You can find many tests on youtube showing it absorb water. Other considerations also include being pretty permanent and near impossible to adjust any plumbing or electrical in it, or changing anything at all. Spray foam, open or closed cell, is not the most ideal insulation for a vehicle that will routinely see 130+ degree temperatures in the summer. It was not designed for that level of heat. It was designed to be put in your house where it is climate controlled.
In my opinion this is a very bad idea. 1) insulation is overrated ( see above) 2) to deal with any rust issues which require welding will be impossible
I am using the 3M Thinsulate for 80% my ceiling and walls. I am using 100% polyiso for my floor. I included 20% Havelock wool for my ceiling and wall because I wanted to try it out but decided to buy more 3M Thinsulate to finish after hearing that the Havelock wool does not repell the moisture but absorbs the moisture instead. Since the ceiling is where there is a lot of moisture, I don't want to have my ceiling insulation absorbing and hanging on to that much moisture for 3 months.
@@seven_o_savage I would so appreciate if you have the time for a quick response. Have you taken this van to a truly cold climate and tested that insulation? I'd love to use this material, however, I'm told by someone who has a great deal of construction experience (the man built a house by himself) to get an R14 foam board insulation. Someone else has told me that R14 is overkill. The Thinsulate looks like a dream to work with, but R3.2 sound ridiculously low compared to what I'm being advised to choose? Has you camper been through a Colorado or Midwest winter road trip? Did it stay warm without draining the camper's energy source trying to keep it heated? Thank you very much for this videos, they're very good! And extremely helpful!
It wont mold but the moisture will build up.. Layer up with solid layer of sound dead then closed cell foam that cavity helps the van breath. Im setting up a. System of pc fans to breath the panels.. Have u taken out any insulation and noticed moisture yeat?
If you’re an Old Fart like me, invest in some of the battery powered shears to cut with! Also there is some better adhesives available that also has acoustic & thermal properties to it that hold better that the spray. Mainly depends on where you live and how hot it gets...
Better option than spraying something thats meant to bend and flex. Sprays werent made for something that vibrates and end up turning to a mess in the walls. Quite a few have had issues with that... no matter the cell or application and future repairs on the body is impossible.
Great Video, I'm starting to insulate my 2006 3500 Dodge Sprinter Van. I have a little bit of rust where my seams are at. I purchased the spray on Rubberized Undercoat to stop the rust and moisture build up. I will research and see if this can be attached with 3m 90 Spray Glue. I know its work but I feel that it would be much safer an easy to handle. Thank You for Inf.
I had a question. I was thinking that the thinsulate repels water so can't it potentially stay up in the ceiling and is less likely to dry out where as fiber like materials will get a bit of moisture but they will dry out easier because of proper air flow throughout? Any thoughts I took my 1980 vanagon liner off and it had yellow batt style insulation that seemed to have no mold or any issues? Since the 1980's I want airflow and I don't want rust to happen on my metals? If water is getting a bit trapped in glue, against materials and vehicles walls isn't this a possibility? if there isn't airflow through the materials? I def don't want rust to ever happen to the inside!
Realize the r value of a house window is about 4.0 max. This stuff is r 3.5. Also,check out refectex if only for the ceiling say if you live az or nv. Refectex towards the metal and maybe a layer of this thinsulate .
re: "the r value of a house window is about 4.0 max" ...and that's for a triple-pane Low-E coated argon-filled window (the best are supposedly closer to R-5). Regular double-pane windows are typically only about R-2. Camper vans with a lot of glass area need to cover that glass with the highest R-value per inch.
When you used glue, did you glue the scrim side down or the white side down? I'd think that it was installed backwards and the scrim should be glued to the body panels.
Hi, I have a 2019 sprinter van the same as you have. it's an amazing van. I'm about to install the insulation wich is using a thinslute you recommend. Did you use reflectix ( radiant barrier) after thinslute? or What did you use? Many thanks your advice. I love your clips.
Steven great videos dude, I know you said you used a lot of glue on the ceiling but did you have any issues with it falling down after you made the video? Thanks again.
Again, nice job ... nice and clean ... Is your van the longest length Promaster that is manufactured? I don't want to make the mistake of buying a too-short vehicle and then regretting the decision. Again, thanks for sharing.
Happy to hear that I could help :). It's a 144 sprinter. For me it was a priority to fit into regular parking spots (often will be parking in cities), but this may not be a priority for you.
One more question.... do you think it would work better if you Did 2 layers of it to up the R value? Would that cause issues as far as trapping moisture? Sorry I'm a girl trying to figure this out on my own and I'm not very good at this stuff lol
User Unknown yea you could do 2 layers in the areas that there is room for it. Just make sure not to compress it into places as that will actually cause it to lose R value!
User Unknown I did two layers in my walls and it works great. It’s the 600L thinsulate that he an r value of 5.4. So with 2 layers I have an r value of 10.8.
@@memoryim Sorry, is this another R value of this Thinsulate brand for 5.4 you mentioned? because i think he is using the R 3.8 value in this video? Im just abit confused, researching to converting my bus and im a girl have no idea what to do also ahha
Mr Seven, I wonder if you have any sequence in order of working on Van. I want to know what is step by step order to begin making motorhome. If you can list all steps in order that would help. You Video are all random on youtube. But they are all very educating. I like them all. Some times it gets little longer but that is Ok because you are a cool handsome guy.
I'm finding little info about filling those rear door window panels. Where the rear door windows would be if installed. I don't have windows either and I want to fill the space. What's the best way to attach panels to that area?
How does Thinsulate's R value compare to PolyIso's? IIRC, PI's R value is greater. I used PI everywhere but some of the door panels in my first Sprinter but because I want to allow for future work in the walls (utilities?), this time I plan to place a ~1" rigid PI against the outer walls and Thinsulate against the inner walls. I prefer 5mm luan for the ability to mount things to it but otherwise might have chosen 1/8". Also 1/8" could fracture more easily (surfboard) in a mishap.
Just a thought. The background doesn't add and detracts from your content. I really want to listen to this but can't because of that noise. Is it on every one?
The 5th reason, 3M Thinsulate is very expensive compared to all other choices. But, anyone who can afford a Sprinter, can afford Thinsulate. Good stuff, just expensive.
Hey I saw in a later video that you had extra thinsulate left over. The option you link to is nearly 500$. I was wondering if you would recommend getting a smaller size to cover a van roughly the same size as yours?
Shouldn't you also use insulation on parts that are not recessed? Seems to me that you would get a lot of heat transfer on the metal parts that are not insulated.
I saw a picture of the metal parts that weren't insulated and they all have heat loss properties, the outside of the van had no condensation but the parts that conducted heat from the I side to the outside had no condensation.. meaning alot of heat being lost overnight... I'm trying to figure out a solution for this myself now too
@@phennexion Would it be viable to just put thinsulate insulation on every piece of interior metal before applying reflectix? For example thinsulate both in the recesses as well as the more interior metal surrounding the recesses? If you come up with a solution, please share! Thanks :)
@@sublimetrance I just saw study on thermal bridges that the metal conducts and it reduces the effectiveness of the insulation in that area by atleast 25%... Someone suggested maybe some kinda aerogel tape on the metal, because you ideally still need like 1/4" or 1/2" polyiso to be really insulated lol
@@phennexion Yeah I have seen things like that too about thermal bridging. For example with houses, builders place insulation between wall studs. But the wall studs themselves act as thermal bridges which is why newer home builds often add another layer of insulation on top of the studs to mitigate the thermal bridging of the studs. At least that is my understanding of it. I will definitely check out the polyiso. Maybe that is the best that can be done? Thanks for the tip!
Very interesting, thanks. You are filling gaps on the door but there are big parts that are not filled, and this is metal. cold can get through those metal parts, in my non-expert opinion. Could one put a big sheet over the entire door in addition to the gap filling? I am imagining a complete, uninterrupted amount of insulation across both back doors. Also, there's some sort of sensor that can determine where one can see where the heat / cold is still getting through. I forget the name. So I would be hard pressed personally to cover all surfaces completely, including the floor and the ceiling. Even a door handle on the inside, I might have a little insulated door with hinges over it. Yeah maybe it's overkill :)
Yo savage, Is your sprinter a 4x4 or 2wd? I currently have a 2017 Acura MDX Tech package and I am thinking of selling my house and going full time van life, however I am struggling to decide whether to go 4x4 but I am skeptical about the whole def system in the new 2022, what are you thought about that? The Mercedes dealers in my region tell me that the Mercedes manufacturing’s aren’t taking any more build for 2021 so I will have to wait until sometime this October to put in an order for my sprinter. What are your thought of the premium package and premium plus package?
Trust me, Sprinters are renowned for rusting from the inside out. All RV’s have a lot of moisture and any exposed metal will become wet. Over time that moisture will find weak spots in the paint and bingo....rust.
@@solideomusical things may have changed over the years, I know that the Fiat group started using galvanised steel in their vans, not sure about Mercedes. I would give the any exposed metal a coating of spray foam. Going behind the stiffening sections especially. Taking care at the lower sections, where any condensation might fall. Then a vapour barrier on top. It probably impossible to eliminate moisture in a van, so maybe look at a way to incorporate a dehumidifier in the van.
@@JohnnyMotel99 Do you think Transit vans have the same problem? If so, I was wondering if an occasional wipe-down or light spray with WD40 on the metal surfaces would help.
@@solideomusical WD40 is a good moisture repellent but it’s going to smell! Do you have a skylight? Best keep interior well ventilated whenever you can.
excellent information on your videos ..... but.... the music... that particular style seems too be on so many videos these days .. maybe its just me but i cannot take it.. i sub'd despite this . Thx for the info
Why didn't you go with sheep's wool? - The amino acids in wool irreversibly bond with formaldehyde, NOₓ and SO2 on a molecular level, improving air quality. - Moisture and climate control - moisture and mold happens in your walls. Wool absorbs and adsorbs it against 65% relative humidity. - Suppresses mold and mildew - natural keratin prevents against the spread of mold and mildew. - Absorbs sound - wool exceeds other forms of insulation as an acoustic buffer. - Thermal conductivity - wool batts are industry standard at 3.6 per inch (roughly the same as 3M Thinsulate) - Resists fire - wool will not support a flame below 1100F; conforms to Class A of the ASTM E84 test. - All natural - wool insulation is entirely renewable and sustainable. - No off-gassing - natural characteristics make our insulation devoid of harmful chemicals. - Installs easily and can break up the bats and stuff in any nook and cranny with some fish tape.
Thank you for posting this video. At 0:22 it looks like you have already installed some type of material on the rear doors and the inside of the sidewalls. What material is that? Thank you in advance :-)
Condensation will play a factor, Plus to yield the rated R value from your insulation you need to have the walls sealed from airflow. I'm sure your insulation is better then nothing? But it might also be a waste.
Hey Savage. Apologies for the question, but I'm really curious what let you away from spray foam? It's toxic? Or maybe after 50k miles all the vibrations will have disintegrated the foam into dust? Would you consider using spray foam sparingly in nooks and crannies?
My main concerns with spray foam as a first time builder is water drainage and difficulty to change. It becomes quite cumbersome to add pipes/electrical and doesn’t allow water to drain through the van walls as it normally would.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[2/2] เมาท์มอยกับ 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้ ที่พร้อมขยี้พ่อหมีได้ทุกเมื่อ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wwn7WnylNtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are the best I've seen for demonstrating how to do things. I truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Jacqueline!
I used that, along with sound deadening - by Dodo - but I was freezing in the winter months. So, I'm doubling up now and using the plastic bottle bubble stuff as well.
This was my 1st worry about doing my own van. Thanks for this info.
At lest talk slow when naming the product 😊
I used thinsulate too. Originally I was set on using spray foam for the r value but I changed my mind because it seemed to permanent, it could potentially warp the van panels, and I was worried about plugging up the drain holes in the wall panels. I’ve been super happy with thinsulate so far. I put two layers in the walls and one layer in the ceiling.
Why two Layers in the wall?
We slept in our ProMaster before any modifications, moving across the country. When it was 28 degrees one morning, I would have loved two layers of insulation in my walls! 🤣
Seven O mentions an R Value of 3.2, but there's missing information here, and with @Ian Memory's comments above. The Thinsulate comes in several thicknesses and therefore, R ratings: SM200, SM300, and SM600. 600... which I believe is the most popular , due to it being the thickest, is likely what is getting the 3.2 R value. Once unrolled, it expands to about 1.5" in "loft." I put 1 layer of 600 in my Sprinter, and with the extra, put it on the ceiling. Instead of what I thought was wasting Thinsulate under the cab headliner, I put three sheets of the Noico sound deadener underneath, and then stuffed the cavity full of old Reflectix.
@@jasonrepkodotcom Thanks for the insulation info. I just bought my van for conversion and am being told to get R14 throughout - walls, floor, and ceiling. Is that overkill? The Thinsulate doesn't even come close and it's very expensive. I do like the qualities and the ease of installation of the Thinsulate. Not sure what to do on this matter. There's so much to learn about in this conversion project.
@@sheri4673 oh, and yes. That’s overkill, for many reasons.
Pretty Awesome Video
I just purchased a 2019 Ford Transit High Roof extended cargo
Looking forward to future projects
I just got the exact same van . How do you like it so far? I just bought this insulation today but haven’t installed yet.
thanks for the video, i just bought the same van and have a simmilar project. i will follow.
What year and model?
Good video. Clear cut without all the drama! Only helpful comment would be when videoing have the sun behind you. That scene at the back of the van looked like one of those "scary" intergalactic "black holes".
i did buy this insulation with your recommendation - i love it , it is great. I used tacky glue using a brush for adhering to ceiling and walls. Thank you for the advice! i am still not sold on covering my rear windows.
Very cool. The rear windows is a tough decision, but keep in mind they make insulated window covers for them!
@@seven_o_savage I'm being told that I should use foam board insulation with an R 14 on the ceiling, walls, and floor. The Thinsulate looks good for it's water resistant properties and ease of installation, but its R rating isn't even close to R14, how does the Thinsulate work when temps drop down to zero or below?
Also, someone else mentioned that all of the metal in the camper area of the truck should have a layer of insulation - no uninsulated metal or those uninsulated areas will collect condensation, can you comment on this? Is that a legitimate concern?
I want to make sure that if I'm ever stranded somewhere in the winter, I'm not regretting my choice of materials. Your videos are helping me so much, thank you for sharing this process.
Humble Road uses the same material. I really value his opinion too.
On matters like this, you shouldn't value any opinion unless it's backed up by facts that were the result of careful testing.
I went with closed cell spray foam, it's 'R' value is 6.9 and is an amazing sound deadener, plus it doesn't need a vapour barrier and strengthens the structure by around 400%. The surface dries in under 5 minutes stopping any gasses coming out and in 24 hours the whole area is solid and has zero air bubbles so gives off zero gasses. DON'T use open cell spray foam as it gives off gasses and soaks up water like a sponge.
Over time you will potentially have problems as the walls vibrate and will cause the foam to crack and possibly peel from the walls.
@@dattran6372 If it were open cell then yes that would be a problem but closed cell spray foam also acts as an adhesive and wont come off walls/ceiling or floors unless you scrape it up with a blade. We've been using it in shipping container conversions for many many years and have zero issues with it doing any of the things you've said.
I am sorry but you have faulty information. Closed cell foam does off gas especially at the temperatures that are normal conditions for the inside of a vehicle, well over 100 F, which is far hotter than in a house which the foam was designed for.
Not only does it off gas, it is not a vapor barrier, and in fact, it is also not water proof. Closed cell foam not only will allow water in, it actually attracts moisture from the air and holds it inside it, which promotes rust in your vehicle as it holds moisture right next to your metal.
You can find many tests on youtube showing it absorb water.
Other considerations also include being pretty permanent and near impossible to adjust any plumbing or electrical in it, or changing anything at all. Spray foam, open or closed cell, is not the most ideal insulation for a vehicle that will routinely see 130+ degree temperatures in the summer. It was not designed for that level of heat. It was designed to be put in your house where it is climate controlled.
In my opinion this is a very bad idea.
1) insulation is overrated ( see above)
2) to deal with any rust issues which require welding will be impossible
Does anyone know how much weight spray foam adds compared to others like thinsulate and XPS ?
I am using the 3M Thinsulate for 80% my ceiling and walls. I am using 100% polyiso for my floor.
I included 20% Havelock wool for my ceiling and wall because I wanted to try it out but decided to buy more 3M Thinsulate to finish after hearing that the Havelock wool does not repell the moisture but absorbs the moisture instead. Since the ceiling is where there is a lot of moisture, I don't want to have my ceiling insulation absorbing and hanging on to that much moisture for 3 months.
There´s a squirell on your camera! xD
I am getting my van thinsulated soon. Thank you for sharing this info. Let me know when you come through southern cali and we can connect =]
Extremely like the video, man. Very helpful and informative. Thank you very much. It is presented so well too. Great, positive work.
Hey this was a GREAT VIDEO and VERY HELPFUL thanks for posting ... just subscribed to your channel!!
Would you not use a vapor barrier with that aswel?Thanks for the videos.This is very useful.
Really starting to enjoy your videos, simple to the point and informative.
Thanks!
Another great vid, easy to understand & follow, ty for sharing
Thanks cla ire!!!
@@seven_o_savage I would so appreciate if you have the time for a quick response. Have you taken this van to a truly cold climate and tested that insulation? I'd love to use this material, however, I'm told by someone who has a great deal of construction experience (the man built a house by himself) to get an R14 foam board insulation. Someone else has told me that R14 is overkill.
The Thinsulate looks like a dream to work with, but R3.2 sound ridiculously low compared to what I'm being advised to choose? Has you camper been through a Colorado or Midwest winter road trip? Did it stay warm without draining the camper's energy source trying to keep it heated? Thank you very much for this videos, they're very good! And extremely helpful!
Hey thanks man for the straight forward info!!!👍
Glad you found it useful!
Closed cell spray foam would have been better for insulation and noise. It's also waterproof. Definitely, your choice will work and is cheaper.
Great research and thanks for sharing!
It wont mold but the moisture will build up.. Layer up with solid layer of sound dead then closed cell foam that cavity helps the van breath. Im setting up a. System of pc fans to breath the panels.. Have u taken out any insulation and noticed moisture yeat?
Really like the quality you put out on your van. Wondering how the velcro works out on holding your panels. May use it myself.
Excellent information ...!!
Thank you for sharing all this great wisdom!! Why do you put it in with the black side facing out?
Great video! I've heard the Ultratouch insulation is excellent as well.
Excellent solution! Thank you!
Hi handsome. Thank for your time.
thanks for the tips
Thanks for uploading this great video!!
Thank you for the video.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO...
👍🏽
I just subscribed... Keep it up..
🙏🏽👍🏽🍏🥑💚
If you’re an Old Fart like me, invest in some of the battery powered shears to cut with! Also there is some better adhesives available that also has acoustic & thermal properties to it that hold better that the spray. Mainly depends on where you live and how hot it gets...
I really love your videos. The only thing I don't like is the annoying background music, it just makes it harder to hear what you're saying.
I went with Havelock Wool.
That will be my choice, too, when I get around to it. Looked at a lot of options and Havelock Wool seems to make the most sense (better R value).
Better option than spraying something thats meant to bend and flex. Sprays werent made for something that vibrates and end up turning to a mess in the walls. Quite a few have had issues with that... no matter the cell or application and future repairs on the body is impossible.
Others have said that's a myth and is not true.
Because they havent had to deal with the end result after ten years. Its vibrating metal not a stationary chunk of wood. Common sense....
Great tips so far. Enjoying your content for sure. May I ask if you insulted the ribs on the ceiling?
Great Vid!
Great Video, I'm starting to insulate my 2006 3500 Dodge Sprinter Van. I have a little bit of rust where my seams are at. I purchased the spray on Rubberized Undercoat to stop the rust and moisture build up. I will research and see if this can be attached with 3m 90 Spray Glue. I know its work but I feel that it would be much safer an easy to handle. Thank You for Inf.
What’s the R value? And what about vapor barrier? Thanks, great videos!🥳
3.2 he says it 1:45 in
I had a question. I was thinking that the thinsulate repels water so can't it potentially stay up in the ceiling and is less likely to dry out where as fiber like materials will get a bit of moisture but they will dry out easier because of proper air flow throughout? Any thoughts
I took my 1980 vanagon liner off and it had yellow batt style insulation that seemed to have no mold or any issues?
Since the 1980's
I want airflow and I don't want rust to happen on my metals? If water is getting a bit trapped in glue, against materials and vehicles walls isn't this a possibility? if there isn't airflow through the materials? I def don't want rust to ever happen to the inside!
Realize the r value of a house window is about 4.0 max. This stuff is r 3.5. Also,check out refectex if only for the ceiling say if you live az or nv. Refectex towards the metal and maybe a layer of this thinsulate .
re: "the r value of a house window is about 4.0 max" ...and that's for a triple-pane Low-E coated argon-filled window (the best are supposedly closer to R-5). Regular double-pane windows are typically only about R-2. Camper vans with a lot of glass area need to cover that glass with the highest R-value per inch.
i think it light up before the cut :D
When you used glue, did you glue the scrim side down or the white side down? I'd think that it was installed backwards and the scrim should be glued to the body panels.
Hi, I have a 2019 sprinter van the same as you have. it's an amazing van. I'm about to install the insulation wich is using a thinslute you recommend. Did you use reflectix ( radiant barrier) after thinslute? or What did you use? Many thanks your advice. I love your clips.
Do you have any ideas about how to insulate the covered areas where Thinsulate cannot be installed?
Nice! How long did it take and how expensive was it to insulate the entire van?
Thank you so much for this!🫰
Excellent impormation greating from Philippines let connect
great videos and work how many rolls did you use for your van I have a 2019 170 ext
Thanks! I used one full roll from the link in the description, so probably need 1 big roll and a smaller one for the 170.
Steven great videos dude, I know you said you used a lot of glue on the ceiling but did you have any issues with it falling down after you made the video? Thanks again.
How much did you end up using? Great video!!👍👍👍
User Unknown I used one of the 50’ rolls in the description and had about 1’ left over once I was complete
@@seven_o_savage awesome thanks!
How much did you pay for the 50ft roll?
What is better for hot weather, thinsulate/wool or foam/polyiso?
Again, nice job ... nice and clean ... Is your van the longest length Promaster that is manufactured? I don't want to make the mistake of buying a too-short vehicle and then regretting the decision. Again, thanks for sharing.
Happy to hear that I could help :). It's a 144 sprinter. For me it was a priority to fit into regular parking spots (often will be parking in cities), but this may not be a priority for you.
I believe the 159 is longest.
Where did you get your ceiling magnets and what pound pull are they? Thank you.
thx mate
Hi thank you for giving such amazing advice. Could you tell me what type of skylight that is that you have in your van?
Thanks for the video. U from solano county?
Your insulation amazon link has the item out of stock and they don't know when it will be available.
hi. did this help alot with keeping ur van warm?
good video
Boom in
One more question.... do you think it would work better if you Did 2 layers of it to up the R value? Would that cause issues as far as trapping moisture? Sorry I'm a girl trying to figure this out on my own and I'm not very good at this stuff lol
User Unknown yea you could do 2 layers in the areas that there is room for it. Just make sure not to compress it into places as that will actually cause it to lose R value!
@@seven_o_savage cool! Thanks again 👍😉
User Unknown I did two layers in my walls and it works great. It’s the 600L thinsulate that he an r value of 5.4. So with 2 layers I have an r value of 10.8.
@@memoryim Sorry, is this another R value of this Thinsulate brand for 5.4 you mentioned? because i think he is using the R 3.8 value in this video? Im just abit confused, researching to converting my bus and im a girl have no idea what to do also ahha
Mr Seven, I wonder if you have any sequence in order of working on Van. I want to know what is step by step order to begin making motorhome. If you can list all steps in order that would help. You Video are all random on youtube. But they are all very educating. I like them all. Some times it gets little longer but that is Ok because you are a cool handsome guy.
What are some unorthodox, outside-the-box ways to insulate a cargo van? Any other ideas?
How many cans of 3M 90 spray glue that you use?
My breath makes rain
I'm finding little info about filling those rear door window panels. Where the rear door windows would be if installed. I don't have windows either and I want to fill the space. What's the best way to attach panels to that area?
The airgel is ideal. Little space required and best insulation properties. unfortunately but also extremely expensive.
Did you insulate the flooring?
How does Thinsulate's R value compare to PolyIso's? IIRC, PI's R value is greater. I used PI everywhere but some of the door panels in my first Sprinter but because I want to allow for future work in the walls (utilities?), this time I plan to place a ~1" rigid PI against the outer walls and Thinsulate against the inner walls. I prefer 5mm luan for the ability to mount things to it but otherwise might have chosen 1/8". Also 1/8" could fracture more easily (surfboard) in a mishap.
Just a thought. The background doesn't add and detracts from your content. I really want to listen to this but can't because of that noise. Is it on every one?
The 5th reason, 3M Thinsulate is very expensive compared to all other choices. But, anyone who can afford a Sprinter, can afford Thinsulate. Good stuff, just expensive.
Nobody can afford a sprinter. Once they get the repair bill they be broke
Thanks for video! can you tell me the name of that meterial, and where to buy it?
Good advise and install but there is a giant bug flying around your head , be careful
So there is no need to pull off the covering thing over the cockpit? Is insulated already? That would be good...
Hey I saw in a later video that you had extra thinsulate left over. The option you link to is nearly 500$. I was wondering if you would recommend getting a smaller size to cover a van roughly the same size as yours?
please help me understand the thought process in adding background music.
What about the thermal bridges?
Shouldn't you also use insulation on parts that are not recessed? Seems to me that you would get a lot of heat transfer on the metal parts that are not insulated.
I saw a picture of the metal parts that weren't insulated and they all have heat loss properties, the outside of the van had no condensation but the parts that conducted heat from the I side to the outside had no condensation.. meaning alot of heat being lost overnight... I'm trying to figure out a solution for this myself now too
@@phennexion Would it be viable to just put thinsulate insulation on every piece of interior metal before applying reflectix? For example thinsulate both in the recesses as well as the more interior metal surrounding the recesses? If you come up with a solution, please share! Thanks :)
@@sublimetrance I just saw study on thermal bridges that the metal conducts and it reduces the effectiveness of the insulation in that area by atleast 25%... Someone suggested maybe some kinda aerogel tape on the metal, because you ideally still need like 1/4" or 1/2" polyiso to be really insulated lol
@@phennexion Yeah I have seen things like that too about thermal bridging. For example with houses, builders place insulation between wall studs. But the wall studs themselves act as thermal bridges which is why newer home builds often add another layer of insulation on top of the studs to mitigate the thermal bridging of the studs. At least that is my understanding of it.
I will definitely check out the polyiso. Maybe that is the best that can be done? Thanks for the tip!
Of' da savages!
Sadly it does not ship to my country 😔 but thanks for the great video 👍
Does thinsulate require an air gap to be effective,?
Hi I have same van as you How many rolls did it take to insulate your van? Cheers 🍻
Hello, just one roll of the link in the description!
Very interesting, thanks. You are filling gaps on the door but there are big parts that are not filled, and this is metal. cold can get through those metal parts, in my non-expert opinion. Could one put a big sheet over the entire door in addition to the gap filling? I am imagining a complete, uninterrupted amount of insulation across both back doors.
Also, there's some sort of sensor that can determine where one can see where the heat / cold is still getting through. I forget the name.
So I would be hard pressed personally to cover all surfaces completely, including the floor and the ceiling. Even a door handle on the inside, I might have a little insulated door with hinges over it. Yeah maybe it's overkill :)
Yo savage, Is your sprinter a 4x4 or 2wd? I currently have a 2017 Acura MDX Tech package and I am thinking of selling my house and going full time van life, however I am struggling to decide whether to go 4x4 but I am skeptical about the whole def system in the new 2022, what are you thought about that? The Mercedes dealers in my region tell me that the Mercedes manufacturing’s aren’t taking any more build for 2021 so I will have to wait until sometime this October to put in an order for my sprinter. What are your thought of the premium package and premium plus package?
Trust me, Sprinters are renowned for rusting from the inside out. All RV’s have a lot of moisture and any exposed metal will become wet. Over time that moisture will find weak spots in the paint and bingo....rust.
So what does one do about that- or to prevent it?
@@solideomusical things may have changed over the years, I know that the Fiat group started using galvanised steel in their vans, not sure about Mercedes. I would give the any exposed metal a coating of spray foam. Going behind the stiffening sections especially. Taking care at the lower sections, where any condensation might fall. Then a vapour barrier on top. It probably impossible to eliminate moisture in a van, so maybe look at a way to incorporate a dehumidifier in the van.
@@JohnnyMotel99 Do you think Transit vans have the same problem? If so, I was wondering if an occasional wipe-down or light spray with WD40 on the metal surfaces would help.
@@solideomusical WD40 is a good moisture repellent but it’s going to smell! Do you have a skylight? Best keep interior well ventilated whenever you can.
If the thinsulate is good for sound also, would you recommend not installing a separate sound barrier?
excellent information on your videos ..... but.... the music... that particular style seems too be on so many videos these days .. maybe its just me but i cannot take it.. i sub'd despite this . Thx for the info
You think I could use my old camping mats?
Why didn't you go with sheep's wool?
- The amino acids in wool irreversibly bond with formaldehyde, NOₓ and SO2 on a molecular level, improving air quality.
- Moisture and climate control - moisture and mold happens in your walls. Wool absorbs and adsorbs it against 65% relative humidity.
- Suppresses mold and mildew - natural keratin prevents against the spread of mold and mildew.
- Absorbs sound - wool exceeds other forms of insulation as an acoustic buffer.
- Thermal conductivity - wool batts are industry standard at 3.6 per inch (roughly the same as 3M Thinsulate)
- Resists fire - wool will not support a flame below 1100F; conforms to Class A of the ASTM E84 test.
- All natural - wool insulation is entirely renewable and sustainable.
- No off-gassing - natural characteristics make our insulation devoid of harmful chemicals.
- Installs easily and can break up the bats and stuff in any nook and cranny with some fish tape.
@JGD can I use old wool sweaters?
@JGD well there was a company that used old jeans so why not use my old clothing.
@JGD lol Im just saying I'd save some money if i macguyver it
Havelock wool from New Zealand You need 4 - 5 bags for a van $120/bag + shipping - shop.havelockwool.com/
Would you insulate before or after running electrical wiring?
Did you have any trouble with the glue? Or would you use it again?
Thank you for posting this video. At 0:22 it looks like you have already installed some type of material on the rear doors and the inside of the sidewalls. What material is that? Thank you in advance :-)
Is sound deadening material.
What type of sound deadening material
On an SUV, would this be good for the glass? Would it stay in if oversized a little?
I have insulated window covers made out of 3m thinsulate and they work great 👍
Condensation will play a factor, Plus to yield the rated R value from your insulation you need to have the walls sealed from airflow. I'm sure your insulation is better then nothing? But it might also be a waste.
Yeah... throw another layer on.
How are you getting the 3M 90 adhesive in California these days? I’ve tried to buy it online and they won’t ship to California!
I’ll answer my own question to help others. I have found that there is a low VOC version that is sold in California at Walmart and hardware stores.
How low a temperature will your van be comfortable to live in with the thinsulate?
The van gets very hot and very cold easily. At the end of the day it is a metal box.
@Ashe Johnston ... Which is why I prefer a fiberglass body. Harder to insulate and build out, but overall better temperature control in extreme temps.
@@ashejohnston6289 Is Thinsulate not very good for hot weather or cold either? What about double the layer?
Thinsulate is good, Mineral wool is better, Areogel blankest are are best
Hey Savage. Apologies for the question, but I'm really curious what let you away from spray foam? It's toxic? Or maybe after 50k miles all the vibrations will have disintegrated the foam into dust? Would you consider using spray foam sparingly in nooks and crannies?
My main concerns with spray foam as a first time builder is water drainage and difficulty to change. It becomes quite cumbersome to add pipes/electrical and doesn’t allow water to drain through the van walls as it normally would.
Where can I buy this insulation system that you installed on your van?