Man I swear I’ve been very gentle with my series X, it just seems like it was an issue to begin with. I never had an hdmi port issue with my PS5 or older gen Xbox’s. A lot of people seem to also get defective hdmi ports maybe it’s the design of the series X.
Most common thing I see are people that will transport their console with the cables connected still. So if it slides in the backseat of a car and hits the cord that's still in the port, port loses the fight. But I have seen some from factory that are just barely attached, so quality control could definitely step it up a bit
Thanks for sharing this! Definitely made me realize there’s no way I can do this myself so I won’t even try. Pretty ridiculous how common this issue is and how difficult they’ve made it to replace.
I came here to say the same thing! I’m very glad you made this video. This video confirmed I don’t have the correct brain cells to attempt this myself, lol. This video was genuinely helpful 🙂
The skill you have with that micro soldering is crazy. I spent a few days trying to just realize my solder was too big. Got .3 and it’s actually possible now but still insanely difficult to nail right
I've done some PS5 HDMI replacements for my shop. And i got my first Series X in today. This video is amazing and it will facilitate the removal process for me. Thank you!
I'm new to engineering, and I am a health science major. I've never been into this type of stuff and knew nothing before this video. Other videos either had no instructions or didn't clearly say what each item they used. Yours did which was very nice because I could look up what it does. Also, it was nice to know what you used because otherwise, I would've bought a soldering kit that didn't have the right items for the repair. I wasn't sure based on other videos if I could solder and replace my HDMI port, but now I'm confident. I'll definitely come back and update once I try to do it. Thanks for the help!!
@@Abdul-si3vi please do give us an update. Take your time on the repair, grab some soldering wick to soak up any mistakes (trust me they happen to everyone). I also appreciate your comment, I try to present things in a way that anybody can understand regardless of being a beginner or an expert.
Thanks for the taking the time to make the video . I would not recommend using that small tip for the hot air machine, also add the leaded solder to the pins as well, it will make for easy removal and lower the risk of tearing off a pad.
Wish you would have showed how to undo the second flat face wire thing. Thought I had to unclip it like the first one. Probably screwed it up. Might help if you show it. Instead of just skipping over it
@@JoshMiller-io4ew oops 🤔 in fairness I usually just pull it out since the clip is tucked away a bit, though the connector can be picked loose with some tweezers
@@RA-sx1qy that sure sounds like us slimy guys, except I don’t offer mail-in or walk-in repairs to anyone on TH-cam. I make repair guides for technicians to follow or learn from.
23 วันที่ผ่านมา
i wanna get into this field but im still a little lost , could you do a video explaining how flux and solder works and step by step of soldering process , this video is the best ive seen so far , because you were explaining as you went but i think i need a lil bit more detail on how things work ...i wanna do graphic cards and tv's as well ...thanx bud, i subscribed and i hit the like button ...great video bro
I want to say thank you very much good sir for this because I have now successfully repaired my first xbox hdmi port. hats off to you for the detailed video thank you again.
@@TapticDigital hdmi went smooth. and it doesnt simply pull out. you misled with the previous pulldown. why not just show the entirety? why skip anything period!!
You can’t blame the teacher for your own stupidity brother. this was a very good informational tutorial with close up visuals don’t know what else dude could’ve done to make it better tbh
@@whoisntwhoisit2126 I love iFixit, they definitely inspired me to make videos. But the problem was their guides and teardowns can be really long and have too much information, I just want the meat and bones! Quick and to the point is how I like guides!
If you dont know what you are doing, don't attemp this. Just tried it. Dissembly is easy, gettimg the hdmi port off and back on without ripping pads off is not going to happen. Leave it tonthe pros. Now I have a board missing pads, so its pretty much useless now. Dont learn the hard way like I just did
It's not as bad as you are making it. The problem is, people get too impatient. It takes some serious heat to free the thing. So you have to be careful and take your time. I actually added some lower melting point solder to the pins before I removed it so it would mix with the factory solder and lower the melting point, because I was so paranoid.
Great video! Personally I use low melt on the anchor points. They come right out with wick if you do that. Just gotta make sure to get it all out! Lots of flux :) I like your technique for doing the pins! Think I'll try that next time.
What an insane amount of disassembly just to access the HDMI port, which is an obvious design flaw. Seriously, the HDMI port is in the exact spot that if you even slightly rock the console backwards while plugged in, it breaks it
If you invent a hot swappable HDMI port and sell them the patent, you’ll be very rich and I’ll be behind you 1000%. They could have done so many other things, like putting the port on its own daughterboard that could be easy replaced if broken
Super professional video! Haven’t even watched other ones yet on repairing the Xbox hdmi cause I’m already convinced this is the best one out there! Do you offer this repair if I were to send you an Xbox series x?
Shit I’m just glad I’m not the only one i played my Xbox for about 20 hours left it alone for 2 years and then boom wont pick up the picture like wtf is that about lol🤦🏻♂️
@@BruhhgzzThe fact he said nothing says enough, and now mine just got fucked. I heard they dare ask almost $300. I don't have that kind of money, I'll never be able to play again.
@@testaccountusa4828I called in and they said 200 dollars. I laughed and said “thanks for the quote goodbye”. The part is 12 dollars on Amazon and it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to watch a guide on replacement. Those repair places are insane.
Wih stickers over screws, I usually blow it with a heat gun or hairdryer on one side while pushing a blade underneath, then just slowly peel it off while giving a lil heat and stick just above till ready to go back. It just looks better
I was heating it for 10 minutes, port did not want to budge. Ended up ripping off 5 pads. Now I know how intricate and fragile these connections are. Costly lesson.
@@dannyfleigle6960 these boards take more heat than almost any other board on the market, solely because they put a TON of copper inside so the board itself acts like a heatsink to spread heat. This means that while heating it, it is passively cooling itself. In order to keep up with the heat I’ve had to turn my hot air station upwards of 450-480c, which would absolutely destroy most boards and their components
@@TapticDigital Ahh, I see. I was using a general purpose heating gun from harbor freight. One with a larger heating radius and no way to adjust temp. Wrong tool for the job.
very informative. using kapton tape on smd components can be dangerous sometimes. when you start to applying from its coner, kaptop starts to shrink within smd components.
The Xbox series X seems to be deceptively fragile; it appears strong and I've been so gentle yet the HDMI is broken apparently, my first Xbox in years and it breaks the day Gamestop (the store that i putchased it from last year) closed down in my country. It is not that uncommon a problem either apparently, but I can't believe this...
Interesting enough Microsoft only puts solder under the pins, instead of envoloping the pin with solder to bond it with the board. This means the joints are very weak against any kind of force. Almost like they want you to ship it off for repairs with them...
I use a Hakko FM203-HD, it's pretty overkill but I do a lot of soldering. Adjustable temperature is a must, and you'll want around 800f to melt the factory solder
Ive had to open and take out the fan in order to clean the xbox of dust and that was plenty of screws too 😭 im wondering if i should take an attempt at borrowing my buddy soldering kit and doing this
Thank you! 😊 I set my air to about 450, it still takes a while to actually melt the factory unleaded solder, which would melt better at 480, but risks overheating the actual board into thermal shock.
The moment you puncture the informational sticker where the screw is you void your warranty, and that's the point as it lets Microsoft know the machine had been opened.
Hi there, picking up your tweezers and silicone mat from the links provided (already have the small screwdriver set). Do you have a recommendation for a good starter soldering kit to do this job, that includes flux and the wick? Thanks.
I actually keep an inexpensive kit at home instead of the overkill Hakko. I'd recommend a Tilswall Soldering Station, they are 65w and offer temperature control, and it's only about $60. Unfortunately wick and flux are separate. I like Techspray brand wick, and ChipQuik brand flux, but usually any kind will do
Hello, what kind of flux did you use and what kind of soldering wick did you use? Lol as well as the type of solder.. i heard you say the blend, but I was just wondering if one typical brand was better then the other. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Oh yeah and im planning on changing the hdmi for a ps5 not an xbox series x btw lol.
@@algisleonavichus4254 I use chipquik flux, I like that it’s mostly clear and then breaks off easily once dry. Solder is… well I can’t read Chinese, but I know it’s a 60/40 leaded blend. Wick is pretty universal though I hear good things about Gootwick. Best advice I have is go slow, use less solder than you think, and there’s no such thing as “too much flux” as long as it can be cleaned off later
MEtal cross - it is a good idea to undo each screw gradually, GPU can break if you release tension on one edge and not the other. Just a friendly advice
I wouldn’t recommend it for a beginner, the heat gun isn’t too difficult, it’s soldering the pins on the port that can be kind of tricky. You have to have very thin solder to avoid it smearing or bridging multiple pins together with melted solder. If you do attempt this I would recommend having a good bit of flux to keep the solder from smearing around, and solder wick to undo any blobs that might appear.
@@Julio0o definitely not one I’d recommend for beginners! It’s totally fixable, but takes a decent bit of soldering experience. If they ever make modular plug and play hdmi ports, I’m all in
@@landyndthom the port is a specific style of HDMI that the Series X uses. I use a hot air station, Quick 861DW, but any hot air gun that can do 450°C or higher will work.
Not at all, as long as you keep the heat moving. Console PCBs are capable of handling way higher temperatures than regular boards, they contain a lot of excess copper throughout the board (intentionally) making the entire thing act like a heatsink. I've only ever blown out one board, a PS4, and it was intentional as I was testing the board's heat limit. Two heatguns at 450C blasting a single spot, took a good 8 minutes before the internal layers catastrophically split, was very cool!
Thanks for the video. I need to do this but looks like way too much work and many steps to damage it if not careful. Plus the specialized tools needed. Dang oh well
Disassembly is the easy part, unfortunately I can't say the same for the soldering unless you have experience working on smaller components. Check out some local shops with decent reviews!
Will this replacement port still be able to output 4K at 120Hz? Is there a difference between replacement parts, or will all of them support HDMI 2.1? Great work!
@@TapticDigital Mine was just repaired today. It's not outputting more than 1080p, could the issue be that it needs additional solder? or could it be an issue with the Booster IC chip? Thank you!
@@ConnorDrummond23 the plot thickens... When I test consoles at the shop I only have a 1080p TV, so it usually changes the resolution setting. But if yours isn't a setting change I'd lean more towards that booster/retimer chip. Sometimes when a port is damaged it can burn up that chip as well. If you had it repaired at a shop they should cover that under a warranty
Hey, the tutorial is great and all except my heat cross isn't a cross, it's a big silver plate with an x shaped into it. It's where the normal plate is. Any ideas on where to go from that?
@@dylanpeters8117 likely just a cover plate of some kind, the outside of it should have a bunch of teeth that just snap on and off. You can email me a picture if you’d like and I can guide you a bit better
@@TapticDigital hey, appreciate the reply, but it's made me a bit apprehensive and I'm thinking I'm gonna bring it into a shop. Thanks for the offer though, man! That's really solid of you, and huge props to you for supporting people like that.
5:50 Have you tried the solder vacuum pens? Common item that sucks the liquid state solder into it. I am sure you have seen these spring blue and lt blue pens for decades.
@@TapticDigital The are cheap, very disposable almost, the plastic ones. The metal ones, be sure to use minwax paste wax on the tips and insides. Just jab the tip in the wax. They make no clog ones, they make one that you can heat the tip of the sucker while heating the solder. Big fun!!
Mine has just broke. I just moved my consol a little bit and it happend. Never had this issue with any other condolences ever . To me this doesn't like an easy or cheap fix. I live in the UK. How much would you expect this to cost to fix?
@@gooseboy6046 make sure you are pressing your iron against both the pin/hole and the part being soldered to heat them both up. The board itself is like a giant heatsink and if your soldering iron can’t heat fast enough it’ll actually cool down when you work on the board.
I have a few questions. I’m completely new to this stuff, but I’m kind of scared I’ll ruin my Xbox. For the pins by the hdmi port, if I bridge the solder, can I separate it? Do I need the special yellow tape while I use the heat gun? Is there anything I need to be extremely cautious about interfering with internally? I’m just kind of overwhelmed and excited to get started on this as a 16 year old any help is much appreciated. ❤
@@LoungingAroundd I definitely wouldn’t recommend this for a beginner, honestly I would find an old electronic you don’t care about destroying and try to repeat the steps shown in the video first. The hardest part of this for beginners is removing the port itself, your instinct is to pull at the port to try and yank it off, what you SHOULD do is continue heating until the port lifts off with almost no resistance. It should basically fall off with a little help. If you encounter bridging you’ll need solder wick, this is braided copper with a dash of flux and it absorbs solder like a sponge when the iron presses it down. The kapton tape isn’t required, but it helps keep other components from blowing away while you use the heatgun. They also help prevent things from getting too hot, the board takes a LOT of heat because it’s meant to spread heat throughout to reduce overheating when playing games. Again I would strongly recommend you take apart a different, cheaper junk electronic and try your hand at removing and reinstalling (if possible) a port. Old computer motherboards are fantastic for practicing on! Other than that, take things SLOW, if you run into a problem step back, research a bit, and keep going. Check out some of my other videos and you might pick up some tips for soldering
@@TapticDigitalYes! Thanks for the amazing advice man. I don’t really have a choice but to fix my port myself cause I’m on a tight budget, with store repair costs being a lot. I’ll definitely be as careful as possible and hopefully things will go smoothly for me. Again, tysm my man I’d be so lost without your help. Just waiting for gear to ship now.
This is probably a dumb question but which type of flux did you use? does it matter which one i use, same for paste on the back board itself? please lmk thank you
aha thank you, appreciate it. a friend of mine's HDMI is destroyed so i've gotta try fix it. just got another new series x HDMI replacement on amazon, dp you have any tips when it comes to soldering. i've a steady hand. i have some (mx4 thermal compound i use for my pc. could i use that to replace the previous paste? thank you once again. saved the day lol. i watched others to this and your video is 100x better @@TapticDigital
@@TapticDigitalhi there so I'm currently trying to remove the HDMI from the motherboard and nothing is happening. How long do i have to keep the heat gun on the board for? Does a 350w do the trick instead of 450w
I give up. I removed the hdmi cable and it somehow damaged the port. I just got this new Xbox and so it’s just ridiculous. I was going to have it fixed but it’s too expensive and trying to fix it myself seems too difficult for me to do.
I got my hdmi slot replaced on xbox series x and had to buy a new hdmi cable. I purchased a anker brand. Now my TV struggles to show 4k it keeps going in and out of game mode. And on the screen there are little dots on the screen.
Usually caused by a loose solder joint on the HDMI or the beginning of an encoder chip failure. In rare cases it could be the cable not being able to support a high resolution and refresh rate, but as far as I know Anker is one of the better ones. I’d take your Xbox back for a warranty repair at the shop, they should have caught that during testing
I don’t know if this is caused by the HDMI port mines a little loose. It looks like and 5-10 minutes into playing a game. The sound becomes choppy and laggy. I have to unplug it and plug it back in for it to register but then it does it again.
Planned Obsolence. Its with everything these days. Remember the RGB cables with the mounted screws? Yeah, needs to be a thing here. Thanks for the video. Researching to see about repairing a friends.
Did the connector come off with it? Used to happen a lot to the hard drive and drisc drives on the One S. You should be able to jam it back down without issue.
Not sure, but commercial electronics have aggressively moved away from lead. (yeah good thing) You can still get lead solder for hobbyists, but it is also going away. Most common 60/37%. (which is also a good thing)
I need help, I installed a port all pins are connected it all worked for a little bit then hdmi suddenly stopped worked seconds after being plugged in, I did everything by the book I fix like 7 a day but now I got one I cant figure out
@@CereaLover123 absolutely would not try unless you’re pretty comfortable with a soldering iron, and a using a microscope while soldering. It’s possible without a microscope but very tricky to get all the legs attached without completely bridging them. Doing it wrong won’t kill your Xbox, it’ll just make it not work until it’s properly installed. I’d recommend taking it to a shop, it’ll be much cheaper than a new Xbox and in most cases the HDMI port will be stronger than the previous. When the factory makes these they only use solder paste which sits under the pin and on top of the pad, making the solder like the crème filling of an Oreo. When a shop does it they usually put solder all around the pin, making it a tasty soldery burrito that hugs the board.
@@TapticDigital I knocked off one for someone and now they aren't able to adjust resolutions and am thinking that is issue. Got image on screen for myself but didn't change resolution, so am thinking may be that but will be getting back tomorrow and will see for sure after some diagnostics. If anyone knows what they are and where can order, would be appreciated
Bingo. Sometimes I like to challenge myself to make it look like it’s never been touched, heatgunning the void stickers off cleanly and wiping any residues. It’s fun!
Just tried this repair. Now the xbox turns on, white light, straight off again. I swear the pins were not bridged and they were all attached to the board. If they had bridged, would that cause this issue?
It can, though I will say the turn on-turn off issue has plagued Xbox since the One/One S, all the way to the Series S/X. It can be a real nightmare to track down. I might start with removing the HDMI port entirely and then attempting to power the console on, you don't need video to know if it stays on.
Is it the circular bit that was under the old HDMI? If so, the new one will sit on top of that plastic, no need to remove it. If it's just yellow tape it can be removed and discarded.
It’s a wee little tip for sure! I get mine from Hakko, they offer a lot of precision tips. They have one that basically looks like a nail, but unfortunately because it’s so thin it barely heats up enough. If you can find a nice pointy conical tip you’ll be set!
Heatgun the board first until the solder melts, then using pliers or tweezers insert the new port into the holes on the board, and take the hot air off. Removing a port usually melts it, but installing a port shouldn't, no need to heatgun the new port
I don't offer mail in repairs just yet, check local shops with good reviews. Even franchises (in the US) like CPR or UBreakIFix offer console repair at reasonable prices!
@@FullThrottleMonty honestly Ubreak is pretty reliable in my experience. You might also have a CPR Cell Phone Repair nearby that offers the service too. I personally wouldn't recommend the Microsoft route, they are expensive and take a long time, and honestly at that price you could almost buy a new console.
Man I swear I’ve been very gentle with my series X, it just seems like it was an issue to begin with. I never had an hdmi port issue with my PS5 or older gen Xbox’s. A lot of people seem to also get defective hdmi ports maybe it’s the design of the series X.
Most common thing I see are people that will transport their console with the cables connected still. So if it slides in the backseat of a car and hits the cord that's still in the port, port loses the fight. But I have seen some from factory that are just barely attached, so quality control could definitely step it up a bit
@@TapticDigital I broke my connector when doing some cable management. Should have just left it messy.
@@FullThrottleMonty ouch! Always unplug when rearranging or moving things. Cables are cheap, the stuff they connect to isn't 😭
Samee I'm barely gonna get one soon
Have 3 console with bad hdmi ports 2 series x, and one s. I want to replace myself, but I’m nervous I may damage it.
Thanks for sharing this! Definitely made me realize there’s no way I can do this myself so I won’t even try. Pretty ridiculous how common this issue is and how difficult they’ve made it to replace.
@@garretttingle3209 I wish they’d make them modular, plug and play
I came here to say the same thing! I’m very glad you made this video. This video confirmed I don’t have the correct brain cells to attempt this myself, lol. This video was genuinely helpful 🙂
The skill you have with that micro soldering is crazy. I spent a few days trying to just realize my solder was too big. Got .3 and it’s actually possible now but still insanely difficult to nail right
Probably has a big magnifying glass stand to look through
Put some flux and some solder on the pads before soldering the HDMI it will help.
This was my worry, im glad I have people to help me, I need to practice more
“Once your done taking apart the hole console, we’re ready to start replacing the hdmi port”.
You gotta start somewhere, right? :)
Want a link to all the things u used
I've done some PS5 HDMI replacements for my shop. And i got my first Series X in today. This video is amazing and it will facilitate the removal process for me. Thank you!
“At speeds a small Honda Civic could only dream of achieving”fucking dying
I love the whole "while Im in here" step of removing the old thermal paste.
It's always a good idea when you take the heatsink off and break that thermal seal, plus I like seeing how crunchy it gets!
I'm new to engineering, and I am a health science major. I've never been into this type of stuff and knew nothing before this video. Other videos either had no instructions or didn't clearly say what each item they used. Yours did which was very nice because I could look up what it does. Also, it was nice to know what you used because otherwise, I would've bought a soldering kit that didn't have the right items for the repair. I wasn't sure based on other videos if I could solder and replace my HDMI port, but now I'm confident. I'll definitely come back and update once I try to do it. Thanks for the help!!
@@Abdul-si3vi please do give us an update. Take your time on the repair, grab some soldering wick to soak up any mistakes (trust me they happen to everyone). I also appreciate your comment, I try to present things in a way that anybody can understand regardless of being a beginner or an expert.
Thanks for the taking the time to make the video .
I would not recommend using that small tip for the hot air machine, also add the leaded solder to the pins as well, it will make for easy removal and lower the risk of tearing off a pad.
Just when I thought I was gonna do this myself lol😂
I feel like most people think "okay this is easy, this isn't so bad, this is fine, holy cow nope I'm out!"
My exact thoughts 😂😅
Facts lol man I’m finna pay $175 to get it fixed
Luckily I joined the Army as a radio comsec repairer and had to learn to solder/desolder
Sheesh, I'm sitting on my bed with my Xbox completely disassembled, my new soldering iron and heat gun and I'm just praying I do this right!
This helped, I got mine in Feb 2021 and my son just broke it, never had an issue, this saved a headsche
Wish you would have showed how to undo the second flat face wire thing. Thought I had to unclip it like the first one. Probably screwed it up. Might help if you show it. Instead of just skipping over it
This
as a fyi for anyone who doesn't know, you need to push in the clip underneath it instead
@@JoshMiller-io4ew oops 🤔 in fairness I usually just pull it out since the clip is tucked away a bit, though the connector can be picked loose with some tweezers
Great video man, saw you editing it on stream and it turned out very good.
Noticed a few steps and components missing or left out that are very important for someone that’s not familiar with this
Yeah, most repair guys and DIY tutorials do that to sabotage you and make you go to a professionals
@@RA-sx1qy that sure sounds like us slimy guys, except I don’t offer mail-in or walk-in repairs to anyone on TH-cam. I make repair guides for technicians to follow or learn from.
i wanna get into this field but im still a little lost , could you do a video explaining how flux and solder works and step by step of soldering process , this video is the best ive seen so far , because you were explaining as you went but i think i need a lil bit more detail on how things work ...i wanna do graphic cards and tv's as well ...thanx bud, i subscribed and i hit the like button ...great video bro
I want to say thank you very much good sir for this because I have now successfully repaired my first xbox hdmi port. hats off to you for the detailed video thank you again.
Glad it helped!
what tools did you get away with using?
Where did you get your ports? What soldering kit did you use?
Very good video. Straight to the point. Thank you. I’m getting my soldering kit tomorrow
you didnt show how to take the other ribbon cable out and you skipped it at minute 2:00. we just destroyed our xbox, thanks a lot man.
@@dhgenetics5836 if you can’t remove a ribbon that simply pulls out, I can’t imagine what you would have done to the HDMI port once you got there.
@@TapticDigital hdmi went smooth. and it doesnt simply pull out. you misled with the previous pulldown. why not just show the entirety? why skip anything period!!
You can’t blame the teacher for your own stupidity brother. this was a very good informational tutorial with close up visuals don’t know what else dude could’ve done to make it better tbh
Most mentally capable TH-cam commentator
Awesome teardown for HDMI! Thank you very much!
As much as I used to love ifixit, you absolutely destroyed them. So much better explained here!
@@whoisntwhoisit2126 I love iFixit, they definitely inspired me to make videos. But the problem was their guides and teardowns can be really long and have too much information, I just want the meat and bones! Quick and to the point is how I like guides!
This is super helpful. Lots of insight and concise. Thank you!
Why won’t the hdmi port come off on mine
*jump cuts removing the hardest part: data ribbon and latching connector #2* @ 1:56
Thanks bro
@@jopptyip1645 if you have trouble unlatching those connectors I can tell you the rest of the repair ain’t gonna be fun for you.
If you dont know what you are doing, don't attemp this. Just tried it. Dissembly is easy, gettimg the hdmi port off and back on without ripping pads off is not going to happen. Leave it tonthe pros. Now I have a board missing pads, so its pretty much useless now. Dont learn the hard way like I just did
It's not as bad as you are making it. The problem is, people get too impatient. It takes some serious heat to free the thing. So you have to be careful and take your time. I actually added some lower melting point solder to the pins before I removed it so it would mix with the factory solder and lower the melting point, because I was so paranoid.
Great video! Personally I use low melt on the anchor points. They come right out with wick if you do that. Just gotta make sure to get it all out! Lots of flux :) I like your technique for doing the pins! Think I'll try that next time.
What an insane amount of disassembly just to access the HDMI port, which is an obvious design flaw.
Seriously, the HDMI port is in the exact spot that if you even slightly rock the console backwards while plugged in, it breaks it
If you invent a hot swappable HDMI port and sell them the patent, you’ll be very rich and I’ll be behind you 1000%. They could have done so many other things, like putting the port on its own daughterboard that could be easy replaced if broken
Super professional video! Haven’t even watched other ones yet on repairing the Xbox hdmi cause I’m already convinced this is the best one out there! Do you offer this repair if I were to send you an Xbox series x?
Thanks! Unfortunately I don't offer mail-in repairs just yet but I would recommend checking local shops with decent reviews!
@@TapticDigitalhow much does it usually cost
Holy shit this looks awful. Definitely going to send it to the factory or something. I’m pissed I didn’t even do anything to my Xbox.
Shit I’m just glad I’m not the only one i played my Xbox for about 20 hours left it alone for 2 years and then boom wont pick up the picture like wtf is that about lol🤦🏻♂️
@@xxxb1gk3vxxx take it to a store that repairs electronics that’s what I did and they fixed it
@@Thatguy55595how much?
@@BruhhgzzThe fact he said nothing says enough, and now mine just got fucked. I heard they dare ask almost $300. I don't have that kind of money, I'll never be able to play again.
@@testaccountusa4828I called in and they said 200 dollars. I laughed and said “thanks for the quote goodbye”. The part is 12 dollars on Amazon and it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to watch a guide on replacement. Those repair places are insane.
Wih stickers over screws, I usually blow it with a heat gun or hairdryer on one side while pushing a blade underneath, then just slowly peel it off while giving a lil heat and stick just above till ready to go back. It just looks better
That's exactly how I remove most warranty void stickers 😂 sometimes they go back on, the company never needs to know!
I was heating it for 10 minutes, port did not want to budge. Ended up ripping off 5 pads. Now I know how intricate and fragile these connections are. Costly lesson.
@@dannyfleigle6960 these boards take more heat than almost any other board on the market, solely because they put a TON of copper inside so the board itself acts like a heatsink to spread heat. This means that while heating it, it is passively cooling itself. In order to keep up with the heat I’ve had to turn my hot air station upwards of 450-480c, which would absolutely destroy most boards and their components
@@TapticDigital Ahh, I see. I was using a general purpose heating gun from harbor freight. One with a larger heating radius and no way to adjust temp. Wrong tool for the job.
very informative. using kapton tape on smd components can be dangerous sometimes. when you start to applying from its coner, kaptop starts to shrink within smd components.
Absolutely beautifully put together. Pain in the ass to disassemble though
@@AC_Milan1899 couldn’t agree more. I feel like they could have gotten away with maybe 20 less screws.
The Xbox series X seems to be deceptively fragile; it appears strong and I've been so gentle yet the HDMI is broken apparently, my first Xbox in years and it breaks the day Gamestop (the store that i putchased it from last year) closed down in my country. It is not that uncommon a problem either apparently, but I can't believe this...
Interesting enough Microsoft only puts solder under the pins, instead of envoloping the pin with solder to bond it with the board. This means the joints are very weak against any kind of force. Almost like they want you to ship it off for repairs with them...
@TapticDigital I almost don't want to believe that. But it is Microsoft and I have a bad history with their products
What kind of soldering gun did you use? I borrowed one and it could not have gone worse
I use a Hakko FM203-HD, it's pretty overkill but I do a lot of soldering. Adjustable temperature is a must, and you'll want around 800f to melt the factory solder
@@TapticDigital thanks for the reply!
Ive had to open and take out the fan in order to clean the xbox of dust and that was plenty of screws too 😭 im wondering if i should take an attempt at borrowing my buddy soldering kit and doing this
Me, a novice, being cheap with my console in parts scattered accross my counter: 👁️👃🏻👁️
Same
Love the video, you make it look so easy. What airflow do you have your hot air station set to? I had trouble getting this thing to budge. Thanks
Thank you! 😊 I set my air to about 450, it still takes a while to actually melt the factory unleaded solder, which would melt better at 480, but risks overheating the actual board into thermal shock.
The moment you puncture the informational sticker where the screw is you void your warranty, and that's the point as it lets Microsoft know the machine had been opened.
You can use a heatgun to completely remove that sticker without destroying it if you want! Shows no evidence of "tampering"
Hi there, picking up your tweezers and silicone mat from the links provided (already have the small screwdriver set). Do you have a recommendation for a good starter soldering kit to do this job, that includes flux and the wick? Thanks.
I actually keep an inexpensive kit at home instead of the overkill Hakko. I'd recommend a Tilswall Soldering Station, they are 65w and offer temperature control, and it's only about $60. Unfortunately wick and flux are separate. I like Techspray brand wick, and ChipQuik brand flux, but usually any kind will do
@@TapticDigital thank you sir!
@@TapticDigital hello!
Would you mind recommending to me which # wick to grab? Will #3 do? Thanks.
I’m having trouble removing the cables at the 3:15 mark, are you supposed to push or pull the tab?
@@nickbrown539 they are super stuck, push the locking tab toward the wires it’s connected to, it should unclip
Very interesting to see this, i don’t think i would attempt to try this but a great video 👍👍
It definitely isn't one for beginners! Thank you!
Hello, what kind of flux did you use and what kind of soldering wick did you use? Lol as well as the type of solder.. i heard you say the blend, but I was just wondering if one typical brand was better then the other. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Oh yeah and im planning on changing the hdmi for a ps5 not an xbox series x btw lol.
@@algisleonavichus4254 I use chipquik flux, I like that it’s mostly clear and then breaks off easily once dry. Solder is… well I can’t read Chinese, but I know it’s a 60/40 leaded blend. Wick is pretty universal though I hear good things about Gootwick. Best advice I have is go slow, use less solder than you think, and there’s no such thing as “too much flux” as long as it can be cleaned off later
MEtal cross - it is a good idea to undo each screw gradually, GPU can break if you release tension on one edge and not the other. Just a friendly advice
Good tip, treat it like lug nuts on a car tire!
How doable is this if I have some, but limited experience soldering? Seems like a good heat gun is the trick?
I wouldn’t recommend it for a beginner, the heat gun isn’t too difficult, it’s soldering the pins on the port that can be kind of tricky. You have to have very thin solder to avoid it smearing or bridging multiple pins together with melted solder. If you do attempt this I would recommend having a good bit of flux to keep the solder from smearing around, and solder wick to undo any blobs that might appear.
Jesus Christ…I didn’t expect this to be so intensive
@@Julio0o definitely not one I’d recommend for beginners! It’s totally fixable, but takes a decent bit of soldering experience. If they ever make modular plug and play hdmi ports, I’m all in
@ that would legitimately be awesome! But I appreciate your candor, cuz I was probably gonna try it anyway lol
What heat gun do you use with that small of nozzle and is it a specific hdmi? Or any off of Amazon?
@@landyndthom the port is a specific style of HDMI that the Series X uses. I use a hot air station, Quick 861DW, but any hot air gun that can do 450°C or higher will work.
@TapticDigital thanks for the speedy reply.
We're you not worried about burning the board when trying to remove the solder with a blow gun?
Not at all, as long as you keep the heat moving. Console PCBs are capable of handling way higher temperatures than regular boards, they contain a lot of excess copper throughout the board (intentionally) making the entire thing act like a heatsink. I've only ever blown out one board, a PS4, and it was intentional as I was testing the board's heat limit. Two heatguns at 450C blasting a single spot, took a good 8 minutes before the internal layers catastrophically split, was very cool!
Thanks for the video. I need to do this but looks like way too much work and many steps to damage it if not careful. Plus the specialized tools needed. Dang oh well
Disassembly is the easy part, unfortunately I can't say the same for the soldering unless you have experience working on smaller components. Check out some local shops with decent reviews!
Will this replacement port still be able to output 4K at 120Hz? Is there a difference between replacement parts, or will all of them support HDMI 2.1?
Great work!
Thanks Connor! Thankfully the only port compatible with this model is one that supports 2.1, so you should have no issues!
@@TapticDigital Mine was just repaired today. It's not outputting more than 1080p, could the issue be that it needs additional solder? or could it be an issue with the Booster IC chip?
Thank you!
@@ConnorDrummond23 the plot thickens... When I test consoles at the shop I only have a 1080p TV, so it usually changes the resolution setting. But if yours isn't a setting change I'd lean more towards that booster/retimer chip. Sometimes when a port is damaged it can burn up that chip as well. If you had it repaired at a shop they should cover that under a warranty
Where can that thermal paste be purchased ? Like a hardware store ? Thank you for the informative video 👈🏼‼️😀
You can find thermal paste at most electronics stores and some hardware stores, though they may be marked as "thermal grease" at a hardware store.
@@TapticDigital appreciate, Thank you ✌🏼
My friend wants me to fix his Series X HDMI port but I’ve never soldered before. It doesn’t look hard though.
I’m not saying I make it look easy, but I kind of make it look easy. I’d definitely recommend practicing soldering on a few other things first!
@@TapticDigital ok I’ll do that thank you great video you got my sub.
How many Watts is your soldiering tool? I’m over here with a flame thrower an thermal lance an can’t get the legs to let go..
Great instructional! Thanks!! Very helpful!
Hey, the tutorial is great and all except my heat cross isn't a cross, it's a big silver plate with an x shaped into it. It's where the normal plate is. Any ideas on where to go from that?
@@dylanpeters8117 likely just a cover plate of some kind, the outside of it should have a bunch of teeth that just snap on and off. You can email me a picture if you’d like and I can guide you a bit better
@@TapticDigital hey, appreciate the reply, but it's made me a bit apprehensive and I'm thinking I'm gonna bring it into a shop. Thanks for the offer though, man! That's really solid of you, and huge props to you for supporting people like that.
5:50 Have you tried the solder vacuum pens? Common item that sucks the liquid state solder into it. I am sure you have seen these spring blue and lt blue pens for decades.
I have, and recently after getting a Hakko solder sucker my entire repair flow has changed. As long as you keep them clean they work wonders!
@@TapticDigital The are cheap, very disposable almost, the plastic ones. The metal ones, be sure to use minwax paste wax on the tips and insides. Just jab the tip in the wax. They make no clog ones, they make one that you can heat the tip of the sucker while heating the solder.
Big fun!!
@@rwhite9994 so we can wick the solder off, we can suck the solder out, what happens if I take an air compressor instead and blast it out?
@@TapticDigital Have no idea.
I am sure the risks, would not be worth the reward.
This video is great! Much unlike my soldering skill.
Mine has just broke. I just moved my consol a little bit and it happend. Never had this issue with any other condolences ever .
To me this doesn't like an easy or cheap fix. I live in the UK. How much would you expect this to cost to fix?
I’m really struggling on the smaller latching connector but you don’t show how you took it out could you tell me what you did please.
@@frenchbeluga7055 it’s a pain to hit the latch, most of the time I just pull the ribbon straight out, and reverse to get it back in.
I wonder how much it is to clean everything internal
Depends on the shop, I've seen places charge anywhere from $20-$100. I typically charge around $40 for time and materials
Cant get it to get a good hold its like the solder isnt grabbing the legs and it keeps coming loose.
@@gooseboy6046 make sure you are pressing your iron against both the pin/hole and the part being soldered to heat them both up. The board itself is like a giant heatsink and if your soldering iron can’t heat fast enough it’ll actually cool down when you work on the board.
@@TapticDigital thanks for the fast response ill give that a try see if it will get hold.
Great video !!!
@@mobileez8471 thank you! I hope it came in handy, and hope some of my other videos might be helpful to you too 🙂
What type of soder do you need like on Amazon please
What is the substance injected on the back side of the hdmi port before you sodder?
@@TheShadow992 flux, it helps keep the solder from becoming brittle or cracking and smearing.
What is the list of tools that was used for this project?
You’ll need a precision screwdriver set with security torx bits, a hot air station, and a soldering iron with flux and solder wire.
how much you charge?
I have a few questions. I’m completely new to this stuff, but I’m kind of scared I’ll ruin my Xbox. For the pins by the hdmi port, if I bridge the solder, can I separate it? Do I need the special yellow tape while I use the heat gun? Is there anything I need to be extremely cautious about interfering with internally? I’m just kind of overwhelmed and excited to get started on this as a 16 year old any help is much appreciated. ❤
@@LoungingAroundd I definitely wouldn’t recommend this for a beginner, honestly I would find an old electronic you don’t care about destroying and try to repeat the steps shown in the video first. The hardest part of this for beginners is removing the port itself, your instinct is to pull at the port to try and yank it off, what you SHOULD do is continue heating until the port lifts off with almost no resistance. It should basically fall off with a little help.
If you encounter bridging you’ll need solder wick, this is braided copper with a dash of flux and it absorbs solder like a sponge when the iron presses it down.
The kapton tape isn’t required, but it helps keep other components from blowing away while you use the heatgun. They also help prevent things from getting too hot, the board takes a LOT of heat because it’s meant to spread heat throughout to reduce overheating when playing games.
Again I would strongly recommend you take apart a different, cheaper junk electronic and try your hand at removing and reinstalling (if possible) a port. Old computer motherboards are fantastic for practicing on!
Other than that, take things SLOW, if you run into a problem step back, research a bit, and keep going. Check out some of my other videos and you might pick up some tips for soldering
@@TapticDigitalYes! Thanks for the amazing advice man. I don’t really have a choice but to fix my port myself cause I’m on a tight budget, with store repair costs being a lot. I’ll definitely be as careful as possible and hopefully things will go smoothly for me. Again, tysm my man I’d be so lost without your help. Just waiting for gear to ship now.
This is probably a dumb question but which type of flux did you use? does it matter which one i use, same for paste on the back board itself? please lmk thank you
Any kind works. I use ChipQuik tacky flux, it dries and then chips off easily. Flux isn't entirely required either, just depends on your preference
aha thank you, appreciate it. a friend of mine's HDMI is destroyed so i've gotta try fix it. just got another new series x HDMI replacement on amazon, dp you have any tips when it comes to soldering. i've a steady hand. i have some (mx4 thermal compound i use for my pc. could i use that to replace the previous paste? thank you once again. saved the day lol. i watched others to this and your video is 100x better @@TapticDigital
@@TapticDigitalhi there so I'm currently trying to remove the HDMI from the motherboard and nothing is happening. How long do i have to keep the heat gun on the board for? Does a 350w do the trick instead of 450w
I give up. I removed the hdmi cable and it somehow damaged the port. I just got this new Xbox and so it’s just ridiculous. I was going to have it fixed but it’s too expensive and trying to fix it myself seems too difficult for me to do.
How much does it cost?
Thanks a bunch this was helpful!!
I got my hdmi slot replaced on xbox series x and had to buy a new hdmi cable. I purchased a anker brand. Now my TV struggles to show 4k it keeps going in and out of game mode. And on the screen there are little dots on the screen.
Usually caused by a loose solder joint on the HDMI or the beginning of an encoder chip failure. In rare cases it could be the cable not being able to support a high resolution and refresh rate, but as far as I know Anker is one of the better ones. I’d take your Xbox back for a warranty repair at the shop, they should have caught that during testing
Thanks for the response.
Thought I'd find a video to show me how to replace it. Yeah, I'm not gonna try this myself. Haha
I have tried the heat gun solder iron the whole nine I can not get anything out of the 4 holes
I don’t know if this is caused by the HDMI port mines a little loose. It looks like and 5-10 minutes into playing a game. The sound becomes choppy and laggy. I have to unplug it and plug it back in for it to register but then it does it again.
Could indicate an issue with the encoder chip, but could also be a slightly loose port
Planned Obsolence. Its with everything these days. Remember the RGB cables with the mounted screws? Yeah, needs to be a thing here. Thanks for the video. Researching to see about repairing a friends.
I thought I was gonna do this myself but it just kept getting worse 🤣
welp you skipped over the power ribbon cable. messed mine up. unfortunate for me.
Did the connector come off with it? Used to happen a lot to the hard drive and drisc drives on the One S. You should be able to jam it back down without issue.
@@TapticDigital the conector is super loose now. Didnt realize i needed to push on the conector then pull cable.
How much does this cost to have done? I can't get a view unless my hdmi cable is halfway in
What kind of solder are you using? As far as Tin/lead percentages?
Not sure, but commercial electronics have aggressively moved away from lead. (yeah good thing) You can still get lead solder for hobbyists, but it is also going away. Most common 60/37%. (which is also a good thing)
Do you still do this??? I need help with mine same issue.
@@jaywar9120 I don’t offer mail in services just yet, check out Chase Fournier on TH-cam, he does some great console repairs.
I need help, I installed a port all pins are connected it all worked for a little bit then hdmi suddenly stopped worked seconds after being plugged in, I did everything by the book I fix like 7 a day but now I got one I cant figure out
Is this repair worth trying with no soldering experience? And is it risky that I'll destroy the whole xbox?
@@CereaLover123 absolutely would not try unless you’re pretty comfortable with a soldering iron, and a using a microscope while soldering. It’s possible without a microscope but very tricky to get all the legs attached without completely bridging them. Doing it wrong won’t kill your Xbox, it’ll just make it not work until it’s properly installed. I’d recommend taking it to a shop, it’ll be much cheaper than a new Xbox and in most cases the HDMI port will be stronger than the previous. When the factory makes these they only use solder paste which sits under the pin and on top of the pad, making the solder like the crème filling of an Oreo. When a shop does it they usually put solder all around the pin, making it a tasty soldery burrito that hugs the board.
@@TapticDigital thanks a lot, I’ll go take to to the shop then!
What are those tiny components on hdmi rail inch and half up and can they be ordered somewhere?
Those are just small filters, they can be ordered separately but off the top of my head I'm not sure which chip they are
@@TapticDigital I knocked off one for someone and now they aren't able to adjust resolutions and am thinking that is issue. Got image on screen for myself but didn't change resolution, so am thinking may be that but will be getting back tomorrow and will see for sure after some diagnostics. If anyone knows what they are and where can order, would be appreciated
It’s counterintuitive alright, they do it purposely to see that someone did work on them for warranty purposes.
Bingo. Sometimes I like to challenge myself to make it look like it’s never been touched, heatgunning the void stickers off cleanly and wiping any residues. It’s fun!
What do you charge to fix the hdmi port
What solder did you use at 5:56?
Not too sure, it's some Chinese brand of leaded solder
I need help when I was trying to remove my disc drive one of the wires popped out when I was trying to take it off and the pins were shown bented
It happens every now and then, the best thing you can do is carefully reinsert the pin into the connector. It should still work fine
@@TapticDigital something is stuck in the sata cable and i think the black part of that is under the pins it got stuck in there
Just tried this repair. Now the xbox turns on, white light, straight off again. I swear the pins were not bridged and they were all attached to the board. If they had bridged, would that cause this issue?
It can, though I will say the turn on-turn off issue has plagued Xbox since the One/One S, all the way to the Series S/X. It can be a real nightmare to track down. I might start with removing the HDMI port entirely and then attempting to power the console on, you don't need video to know if it stays on.
Mine has a yellow plastic thing that’s keeping the new port from seating any suggestions?
Is it the circular bit that was under the old HDMI? If so, the new one will sit on top of that plastic, no need to remove it. If it's just yellow tape it can be removed and discarded.
Where can i get a soldering tip that small?
It’s a wee little tip for sure! I get mine from Hakko, they offer a lot of precision tips. They have one that basically looks like a nail, but unfortunately because it’s so thin it barely heats up enough. If you can find a nice pointy conical tip you’ll be set!
do you fix it for others if so i really need your help
@@darwinbridges9952 I don’t offer mail in repairs quite yet, you may want to check with Chase Fournier here on TH-cam
Any idea why the resolution would be locked to 640x480 after this repair?
Can be a loose or bridged pin, or the encoder chip dying
how can one add on a new port with a hot air station without melting the pin holder inside the port.
Heatgun the board first until the solder melts, then using pliers or tweezers insert the new port into the holes on the board, and take the hot air off. Removing a port usually melts it, but installing a port shouldn't, no need to heatgun the new port
What brand of thermal paste did you use?
How hot should I use the heat gun?
To melt the factory solder you’ll want around 420c-450c at a medium airflow
@@TapticDigital thank you for the fast reply I’m trying to do it myself for the first time want to make sure I do it correctly
What temperature should I have my heat gun at
@@fanaticdino minimum of 420c, I usually run mine at 450c
Yeah I just wanted to know because I was scared I was Going to crack the board so thanks
If you're going to be moving the console around use a HDMI extender
What should i do if all my usb ports are not working
@@michaelcw33 try a system update, if that fails look into replacing the ports. But it’s very odd for multiple to fail.
I cant connect any controllers to the xbox to do this the pair controller does not work but the disc eject does
How much to fix my hdmi port? Same exact damage
I don't offer mail in repairs just yet, check local shops with good reviews. Even franchises (in the US) like CPR or UBreakIFix offer console repair at reasonable prices!
UBreakIFix charges $199 + tax. Microsoft is $299. I'm still trying to decide what to do.
@@FullThrottleMonty honestly Ubreak is pretty reliable in my experience. You might also have a CPR Cell Phone Repair nearby that offers the service too. I personally wouldn't recommend the Microsoft route, they are expensive and take a long time, and honestly at that price you could almost buy a new console.
@@FullThrottleMonty the one near me tried to charge me $350 to fix it but I did i was like hell nah so I’m trying to do it myself
Can a Xbox be taken somewhere to get cleaned ?
outstanding video thank you!
Buy tools to do this