So you had the exact same problem as I had. The issue for me was one side where it attaches to the wall was not tight. There was no stud or anything to attach it to in the wall so the “track” was away from the wall and causing the door to be out of square. I’m mounting a reinforcement on the ceiling and pushing the enclosure into place with a fabricated bracket. Thats just me. I love your comment “quality is job 1”. No matter what brand or level of rv you buy, they’re all built like this with no give a damn which is so disappointing when you buy these things for big bucks. Thank you for posting this quality video…you’re really good at it!
Perhaps you were BATHED in distraction. Or maybe you were too DRAINED to focus. Could it be you were WALLED off from learning? We may never know unless........ we SHOWER you with love! 😆😆🤣🤣😂😂😂😆😆
@@thewayididit6641 ok. Just moving the hole over fixed it correct? I heard you mention putting the screw in a diffrent spot on the topper. Does that also effect the way the door was sagging?
Moving the hinge point was the bulk of the solution. As I fastened the top cover, I held the walls flexed in such a way that the door gap wasn't forced back into the same position it was before, but rather a position that kept the gap equal. The I put the screws in a different location. I did everything by myself; I suggest you get another set of hands to help if possible. They don't need to be strong, just able to reach the top of the walls.
So you had the exact same problem as I had. The issue for me was one side where it attaches to the wall was not tight. There was no stud or anything to attach it to in the wall so the “track” was away from the wall and causing the door to be out of square. I’m mounting a reinforcement on the ceiling and pushing the enclosure into place with a fabricated bracket. Thats just me. I love your comment “quality is job 1”. No matter what brand or level of rv you buy, they’re all built like this with no give a damn which is so disappointing when you buy these things for big bucks. Thank you for posting this quality video…you’re really good at it!
Thanks, sounds like you're pretty handy too.
Very helpful!! Great explanation!!
Perhaps you were BATHED in distraction. Or maybe you were too DRAINED to focus. Could it be you were WALLED off from learning? We may never know unless........ we SHOWER you with love!
😆😆🤣🤣😂😂😂😆😆
Mine had a leak between the shower and the cabinet where they didn’t caulk it when built. So frustrating
What is the link to the seal and caulk used? Looks just like a problem we are dealing with. You may be able to put a seal on the top also. Thank you.
Search for this in Amazon, it's where I got it.
Brand: TechnologyLK
4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 368
Two-Pronged Shower Vinyl Sweep and Seal - 32-1/2"
Thanks for sharing.
I have the same issue. That I have to work on when I get back from deployment. You have an email or something? I have more some questions. Thanks
You can reach me through here. It's the best way. Here I get notification, email doesn't notify me.
@@thewayididit6641 ok. Just moving the hole over fixed it correct? I heard you mention putting the screw in a diffrent spot on the topper. Does that also effect the way the door was sagging?
Moving the hinge point was the bulk of the solution. As I fastened the top cover, I held the walls flexed in such a way that the door gap wasn't forced back into the same position it was before, but rather a position that kept the gap equal. The I put the screws in a different location.
I did everything by myself; I suggest you get another set of hands to help if possible. They don't need to be strong, just able to reach the top of the walls.
@@thewayididit6641 thank you sir. I have been googling fixes for a while. Finally ran across this. Appreciate it.
Glad to help and good luck!