I'm considering the hoodoo and concerned about access to the bow and stern for inserting accessory cables like your trolling motor and transducer cables. Is there plenty of arm access via the seat hole? It looks like that is the only way to access the interior of the hull. True?
@@Aksmaniyak I picked up this used kayak and only had superficial scratches on the hull. I'm excited to use your channel as I move toward the water. I do have a few questions 1. The rear grab bar is attached but it seems a bit spongy if I were to use it to lift the rear end of the kayak. I am in the process of building a SUV rooftop carrier, so I'd like to use that bar to assist me with loading. I'm considering removing the two bolts that attach to the boat to be sure there are no issues. It is not as solidly mounted as the grab bars on each side. Does that spongy bar seem normal and should not be used for lifting? I see no flex in the hull near the connection. 2. While the kayak is on the ground and lifting the bow with the handle, the bow seems unusually heavy. I have several sea kayaks, one plastic and the bow seems relatively proportional. I was wondering if this is normal and I'm trying to figure out what is in the bow that makes it seem so heavy. Lifting from the stern, the boat is light. 3. The original owner placed several blocks of dense gray foam through the seat hole. that appear to provide additional rigidity for the deck since they go from the hull to the deck. I may be removing it to gain access to the inside and perhaps use a scope to snake up to the bow to see the insides. Do you feel the deck floor is in need of this extra support or perhaps it was done just for keeping the entire inside from filling with water in a bad situation?
@@pohukai3216 Hi, thanks for your comment. I would suggest you join the "facebook.com/groups/515969772377379 Hoodoo Owners FB page. This isn't really a good place to ask lengthy questions but I will try. 1.The rear bar on mine is solid and I use it to lift it. 2. I really never noticed any difference. 3. There is some foam inside the hull placed by the company. The hull is very rigid.
You plan on reinforcing the seat top? I would advise so, my lid already started to taco on itself a bit after one use. Reinforced it and I also installed a swivel seat so it was really necessary.
It is a DIY cast bar and I made a video for it. It is strong but I would not try to pick up the skiff with it. The top speed on good water/weather conditions was 8MPH.
If you want to have a little fun you might try to do some STRUCTURE MAPPING. I am able to do it with my older Lowrance HDS7 and a totalscan transducer. Not sure if it will work with the 123 transducer??? You will have to check on that. Another youtuber told me that your unit is also capable of doing it. It allows you to map the bottom of a particular area and show any structure in that area. It takes some time and effort to do it but the end result is pretty nice. So far I have only done one area, an artificial reef here in tampa bay. Give me a call some time and I will give you the details on how it did it. You can even purchase a spare power cable for your Lowrance Head unit and purchase a 12 volt power supply that plugs into 110 volt outlet. Then you can view your work and add any way points that you want to in the comfort of your home. One you have these recorded and saved on a spare SD card that is plugged into your Lowrance head unit it will display the bottom structure of that area any time you travel over it. It is really cool.
Nice video. I am thinking to upgrade my Perception Outlaw 11.5 powered by a Yamaha 2.5hp to possibly the Hoodoo Hero 130. Do you think the 2.5hp be too small for the Hoodoo? If so, I may have to sell everything and start from scratch. I can hit 8mph on my Outlaw with the 2.5 motor and I know the Outlaw is a barge. But at the same time is 20lb lighter. When you think you will do a water test run? Thanks in advance for your input and time.
Thanks. I'm waiting for my tags before I can hit the water. The 2.5 might be ok. I would try it before starting over. I have seen other videos with 6HPs on them and I think that is way over powered.
I just ordered a HERO 130 skiff. Great job on the mods. I like standing and plan to put an handle extension to the motor. Where did you buy the bar to hold on to? I can see myself needing that or I'll just tie a rope from the front so I can hold on to something. A bar would be better I think. Also, what kind of motor did you put there. Would a 5 hp Tohatsu be sufficient?
@@Aksmaniyak That can happen without the right tool. But a friend of mine told me to fill it with sand before bending. No more collapsed pipe. By the way, did you screw down the 4 Bimini hinges on the skiff. Or did you use nuts? Are those tracks solid?
@@ahidalgo4 Your friend is correct about the sand. I just tightened the set screw because the connectors had a tight fit. Yes, these tracks are solid but I will still be careful not to put too much stress on them.
I'm very looking forward to seeing your water test it
Thanks Qiang.
I'm considering the hoodoo and concerned about access to the bow and stern for inserting accessory cables like your trolling motor and transducer cables. Is there plenty of arm access via the seat hole? It looks like that is the only way to access the interior of the hull. True?
Yes, I had plenty of room and used a fish tape to run wires.
@@Aksmaniyak I picked up this used kayak and only had superficial scratches on the hull. I'm excited to use your channel as I move toward the water. I do have a few questions
1. The rear grab bar is attached but it seems a bit spongy if I were to use it to lift the rear end of the kayak. I am in the process of building a SUV rooftop carrier, so I'd like to use that bar to assist me with loading. I'm considering removing the two bolts that attach to the boat to be sure there are no issues. It is not as solidly mounted as the grab bars on each side. Does that spongy bar seem normal and should not be used for lifting? I see no flex in the hull near the connection.
2. While the kayak is on the ground and lifting the bow with the handle, the bow seems unusually heavy. I have several sea kayaks, one plastic and the bow seems relatively proportional. I was wondering if this is normal and I'm trying to figure out what is in the bow that makes it seem so heavy. Lifting from the stern, the boat is light.
3. The original owner placed several blocks of dense gray foam through the seat hole. that appear to provide additional rigidity for the deck since they go from the hull to the deck. I may be removing it to gain access to the inside and perhaps use a scope to snake up to the bow to see the insides. Do you feel the deck floor is in need of this extra support or perhaps it was done just for keeping the entire inside from filling with water in a bad situation?
@@pohukai3216 Hi, thanks for your comment. I would suggest you join the "facebook.com/groups/515969772377379 Hoodoo Owners FB page. This isn't really a good place to ask lengthy questions but I will try. 1.The rear bar on mine is solid and I use it to lift it. 2. I really never noticed any difference. 3. There is some foam inside the hull placed by the company. The hull is very rigid.
@@Aksmaniyak thank you.. you did a great job answering... i haven't done facebook, but will try.
@@pohukai3216 Great. There are a lot of knowledgeable members in that group.
Well done. Looking forward to an on the water demo.
Thanks!
You plan on reinforcing the seat top? I would advise so, my lid already started to taco on itself a bit after one use. Reinforced it and I also installed a swivel seat so it was really necessary.
Hi Jorden. If you distribute your weight on the edges it will be stronger. I have a seat hack already done but I want to field test it first.
@@Aksmaniyak Looking forward to seeing it once it's got the stamp of approval!
Where can i get the same cast bar ? And hoe strong is it ? Last question, whats the top speed on that engine ?
It is a DIY cast bar and I made a video for it. It is strong but I would not try to pick up the skiff with it. The top speed on good water/weather conditions was 8MPH.
How much does the skiff outfitted weigh in at?
I never weighed the entire build. I suppose it could be estimated by adding up all the parts.
If you want to have a little fun you might try to do some STRUCTURE MAPPING. I am able to do it with my older Lowrance HDS7 and a totalscan transducer. Not sure if it will work with the 123 transducer??? You will have to check on that. Another youtuber told me that your unit is also capable of doing it. It allows you to map the bottom of a particular area and show any structure in that area. It takes some time and effort to do it but the end result is pretty nice. So far I have only done one area, an artificial reef here in tampa bay. Give me a call some time and I will give you the details on how it did it. You can even purchase a spare power cable for your Lowrance Head unit and purchase a 12 volt power supply that plugs into 110 volt outlet. Then you can view your work and add any way points that you want to in the comfort of your home. One you have these recorded and saved on a spare SD card that is plugged into your Lowrance head unit it will display the bottom structure of that area any time you travel over it. It is really cool.
Thanks for the tips John!
Nice video. I am thinking to upgrade my Perception Outlaw 11.5 powered by a Yamaha 2.5hp to possibly the Hoodoo Hero 130. Do you think the 2.5hp be too small for the Hoodoo? If so, I may have to sell everything and start from scratch. I can hit 8mph on my Outlaw with the 2.5 motor and I know the Outlaw is a barge. But at the same time is 20lb lighter. When you think you will do a water test run? Thanks in advance for your input and time.
Thanks. I'm waiting for my tags before I can hit the water. The 2.5 might be ok. I would try it before starting over. I have seen other videos with 6HPs on them and I think that is way over powered.
I just ordered a HERO 130 skiff. Great job on the mods. I like standing and plan to put an handle extension to the motor. Where did you buy the bar to hold on to? I can see myself needing that or I'll just tie a rope from the front so I can hold on to something. A bar would be better I think. Also, what kind of motor did you put there. Would a 5 hp Tohatsu be sufficient?
Thanks Al. I made the standup bar and a DIY video tutorial for it. I also go into the motor details in another video.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks. It shouldn't be that hard to bend that conduit. I have a heavy duty bench vise. Then use an extension for leverage.
@@ahidalgo4 Be careful not to "pinch" the tubing.
@@Aksmaniyak That can happen without the right tool. But a friend of mine told me to fill it with sand before bending. No more collapsed pipe. By the way, did you screw down the 4 Bimini hinges on the skiff. Or did you use nuts? Are those tracks solid?
@@ahidalgo4 Your friend is correct about the sand. I just tightened the set screw because the connectors had a tight fit. Yes, these tracks are solid but I will still be careful not to put too much stress on them.