I just tried this yesterday. Tried it on some elbow latex gloves to see the effect. I did it after looking at all the written forums and this very video to clarify exactly what I was getting into. Let me tell you, holy cow! They just slipped on. This video was the golden ticket to finally try it. Pretty cool.
Just wanted to say I finally got round to doing this and it worked great. I now have nice smooth latex garments which feel great, thank you so much for posting this vid, I would not have tackled this without such detailed step by step guide. No more talc and polish to mess around with for me!
Nice little video! I'd like to add a few observations. I used much larger plastic storage tubs and 5 gallon buckets. What I learned from experience: Mixing the ingredients can be done with a wood stick, like a plunger handle that's not painted. If you make the mixture stronger it will last up to a week if kept in an airtight container. The benefit is that you only need to soak the garments once and for only 30 seconds. The risk of course is over cooking the latex. I used to mix all ingredients and when the mixture starts to effervesce it's ready for latex. Chemicals are strong. Always do outside and use a fan for crosswind. Never used a mask. You'll know right away if you catch a whiff, it'll make eyes water and make you cough immediately. Tried it in a basement once, not cool, even with a sealed bucket; every time I opened it to use it I got gassed. So I moved it outside. Negative temps outside got me to try it. Front porch better. Yes, chemicals are strong, but the real danger is trying to tough it out. You won't be bleeding from your lungs unless you are purposely sucking in pure chlorine gas. Chloric acid will eat through jeans but you probably won't notice it until you pull them out of the washing machine. Have a garden hose ready if you think you are clumsy enough to spill the acid directly on skin. Also, this reaction can be obtained using muriatic acid or unscented drano (alkali). You just have to adjust mixtures for different concentrations.
I am really glad to have found your video. I was really tired of polishing and vivishining over and over again. I have a cat suit that doesn't really fit that well (stretching only goes so far) so I can practice with that suit before using my other items. I will be doing a catsuit, shorts, chaps, harness, cuffs and gloves.
This worked a treat for me. It is amazing!! So easy, and it transforms the latex. I wish I'd done it years ago. It really does become 'silky'. 4UKP (about 6USD) for the acid from Amazon, and I've chlorinated several items and only used a bit of the bottle. It took me less than an hour to do the whole lot. I did it outside, on a windy day, so no worries about being gassed. Thanks very much for the step-by-step guide - this prompted me to have a go at it.
Andreas Mueller thank you so much for telling me 😊 I was hoping it would help other people. I have a new method I use now where I do it in a zip lock bag so it does not require a gas mask. You add a small zip lock bag of hydrogen peroxide and a small bag of sodium thiosulfate. These both neutralize chlorine. Peroxide works more with the chlorine in the liquid and the sodium thiosulfate works with the gas. Sodium thiosulfate is used in photography so it’s available online. It just sometimes take using a huge ziplock to hold catsuits. And you pop the peroxide when your done followed by opening the sodium thiosulfate. Test for chlorine with hot tub chlorine test strips
@@nasontackett Waaaaaait a minute, hold the phone, what? I also come back to this video each time I need a refresher, but the gas filters that I have to import from America cost a fortune, so if you have a new way of doing it without needing a gas mask I am your new best friend! Do you have a video on this too? Really would like to know the details of this as even with a mask, I have a fish pond and not a big outdoor area so it's less than ideal.
ArcanePath360 yes!! But it’s only really good if you are doing 1 thing at a time. If I’m doing a bunch, I still use the bucket method. The bag method uses a zip lock bag big that is at least 3 or 4 times the size of the article you are chlorinating so you can work with it through the bag. You fill 1 liter of water, add 30 ml of bleach, put the latex in, fill a small zip lock bag with hydrogen peroxide, and fill another small zip lock bag with sodium thiosulfate and add both those sealed bags inside the big bag with the latex. Fill a small glass bottle with 5mL of hydrochloric acid and put the cap on and put in the bag and seal it all up with at least half the bag filled with air so you can work with things. Make sure it’s sealed. You can double bag if you want to be really safe. Unscrew the cap on the hydrochloric acid to start the reaction. After a few minutes, burst the small bag with the hydrogen peroxide and burst the bag with the sodium thiosulfate to absorb the chlorine and convert it back to salt water. Use pool chlorine test strips to stick inside a small opening in the bag to check chlorine levels. It should indicate none. You may have to do the process twice to turn garment inside out. The sodium thiosulfate is used for photography so you can find it online. The glass tube is on amazon if you search 5mL glass pill bottle
@@nasontackett Thanks for getting back to me on this. I've looked at zip lock bags on Amazon but I'm not sure about them. Are they air/water tight? Can you recommend any large ones where you could fit a catsuit? I found this so far: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003U6FMOK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=AFBDIVRO7YS7G&psc=1 I really don't want to mess up that part since I'd be left breathing lethal gas. How do you burst the ziplock bags on the inside? By squeezing them? (I've never bought ziplock bags before so this is all new to me). I guess all this is safe to flush away in a bathtub or do you still need to be outside?
@@ArcanePath360Simply put the latex into a bucket of water with some chlorine bleach. This avoids most of the poisonous gas nonsense. Of course it is still recommended to vent the room well. (If your posters and wallpapers loose colour and electronics dies of corrosion, you for sure did it wrong.)
I've been wearing latex for over a decade, and I only just discovered chlorination for some reason! thanks for your video. I use a "dressing agent" to put my suits on usually. I'm going to give this a try on one of my old suits and see if it's any easier to put on.
Oh yay! My wife and I love it. You can still polish it but the polish doesn’t stick around for a long time so you either do touch up polish on it or you just keep some suits unchlorinated that you want shiny and then chlorinate others that you want for fun or that you don’t mind looking matte. We keep a selection of both chlorinated and non chlorinated 🙂. The chlorinated feels amazing though
Thank you for making this video, it is incredibly informative and will no doubt prove helpful when I attempt chlorination. Out of interest what kind of mask and filters did you use?
I am happy you found the video useful. The mask can be found here: www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B008MCUT86/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awdo_F6rAub197HSR4_tt And the filter set can be found here: www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60929-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHL7W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awdo_K7rAub0E8E47F_tt
This was very helpful. The only thing I'd be willing to be nitpicky about, is the mask is a particle mask...not really best used to avoid gasses. A snorkle mask that draws air from the back works better...and well, you're outside, so that reduces the risk greatly. So, I'm saying it isn't really affective, and slight overkill, but appreciate. Better to be safe than sorry. ✌🏽
There are better masks. But the filters that I’m using on the mask are not the typical filters that come with these masks. They are special filters designed for mercury vapor and chlorine gas. I have since switched to a much better full face mask that also covers the eyes and seals better on the face. A snorkel style mask where you could have the filter in the back would work even better. Being outside, especially if you also run a fan or have a good breeze, greatly limits your exposure. About the only time you really need it is when you get your face down close to the bucket
Thank you for this very informative video! I have just received a proper respirator mask with the right filter, and got my hands on the ingredients. The acid has 32%, however the bleach has 15%. Following your logic my ratio should then be 1 liter of water, 5 ml of Acid, 10 ml of bleach. Am I correct? Also, would it make a difference if I put a lit on the bucket during the process... or would it just fly off due to the pressure?
You are correct since my measurements were based on 5% bleach. You can try the lid. I actually do this in a huge ziplock bag now and neutralize the chlorine using sodium thiosulfate and it works great! The only thing is that you will want to agitate and turn your stuff inside out during the process. When I do it in the back, I just shake it the whole time and do it twice so I can turn inside out in between
@@nasontackett Thank you for your fast reply! Was thinking that with a lit I can do more pieces at a time, still knowing that I would have to repeat the process with the items inside out. As a matter of fact, I can get my hands on an old butter maker, which is basically a sort of closed drum, which you can spin around.
@@yvorbroer5149 when I do it in a big zip lock bag, I don’t notice any expansion after I unscrew the vile with the hydrochloric acid to start the reaction so I think you are ok.
Thanks, I feel easier about tackling this now with your very helpful video. However I think I will use a stick rather than gloves as it looked like you were in danger of getting the mix spilled over the top into your gloves.
ArcanePath360 A stick is a very good idea actually. When I first started out doing this process, I used a 1 meter long fiberglass pole that worked well. After awhile I became more comfortable with the process and started using my hands because I could quickly turn outfits inside-out and peel parts that were stuck together. I just have to be really careful not to push my gloves down into the solution and allow it to spill into the glove. It is a risk. Once Hydrochloric Acid mixes with the water and Bleach, it does not have the same risk of burning your skin, but it is hard to estimate where in the process the reaction is and it is best not to risk burning yourself. Staying safe is always a good idea :-)
Nason Tackett Thanks. I don't have a good outdoor area so I'm going to do it on my stove, with the extractor hood on full power and the filters removed so it pulls fumes outside, then open a window behind me to suck fresh air in. I will probably keep the respirator on for a good while until it's all gone.
ArcanePath360 I would be very careful doing it inside. Chlorine gas is heavier than air so it sinks towards the ground (Chlorine gas used in chemical warfare would sink and stay in trenches for long periods of time). What I would be concerned with is the gas getting stuck in places outside of the airflow that you setup (corners, etc). If you have kids, dogs, cats, etc they will be breathing closer to the ground so this would be more of an issue for them. What I would do in your situation is have a way to detect the presence of Chlorine gas. Since you cant see it, it would be very wise to know what the levels are. Take a look at these Chlorine Gas detection badges (also if you search Chlorine gas detector, there are some electronic ones for about $150): www.google.com/shopping/product/12404618495394183266?q=chlorine+gas+detector&biw=1392&bih=783&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.92189499,d.eXY&tch=1&ech=1&psi=9I9BVb6QN8KWNqD8gMAK.1430360054431.13&ei=QJFBVY3aCNDvggSN7oHIDw&ved=0CHsQpiswADhk
Nason Tackett Thanks for that, it sounds like very hazardous stuff. I live alone so that's not an issue and have lots of windows and doors to create a through draft. I also have a dehumidifier with a big fan on it to circulate the air in the house. I guess I could sit in the garden for a bit when done while the house aerates. I don't want to spend much more on this as it's getting kinda expensive.
@@nasontackettSimply put the latex into a bucket of water with only some chlorine bleach. This avoids most of the poisonous gas nonsense. Of course it is still recommended to vent the room well. (If your posters and wallpapers loose colour and electronics dies of corrosion, you for sure did it wrong.)
Watched this and reading the comments has been a great help. I plan to do a test chlorination on a latex singlet before doing a few other garments and perhaps offering it to friends also. Will let you know how I go :)
hey there probably a stupid question but does the chlorination process have any effect on the glued seams of a latex garment? Could it be possible that the chemicals in the reaction bucket could compromise the glue used in the seams?
Jessie O'Brien I have chlorinated quite a bit over the years and what I can tell you is that I have never really seen any of the glue at the seams fail due to chlorination. But what I have seen is cracking of the latex right next to the seam and this seems to happen more frequently to latex that is chlorinated. I suspect it is because chlorinated latex is less stretchy and without the ability to stretch as much, it puts more stress on the area right next to the seam because it is half as thick as the overlapped seam so it is an area that concentrates stress. This seems to happen to non-chlorinated latex as well but it just takes a little more time. It is repairable though, but you do have to sand chlorinated latex first so that the glue will bond. I have had to do repairs next to seams usually just an inch or two at a time. This tends to happen to chlorinated latex after a few years of use.
CAN be deadly thats a funny one.. if you get that stuff into ur longues you will start to cough blood and you will be deadwithin seconds theres no doctor in all the world that can save ya if u inhale that, chlore is made to make sure no living organisms survive, it destroys all fungi bacteria microbi and virus, you use this stuff when you go into africa to wipe out ebola strains when you dress up in class 3 security suits.
Natural latex decays and breaks down over time, regardless of how well you take proper care of it. A warning sign of when your latex garment is nearing the end of its lifespan is it starts to thin and gets a gummy, sticky feeling to it. Latex clothing has a particularly shorter lifespan because of exposure to body fluids and external substances (like deodorants, perfumes, etc) speeds up the decay. Temperatures also play a roll---both cold and hot, as well as sunlight. I've been collecting and wearing latex for better than 30 years now, and the longest life I've ever gotten out of a garment is 6 years---that's with only wearing it once or twice a year. Chlorination will actually extend the lifespan of latex slightly by adding a protective barrier to the latex. But it only helps so much. Latex glue also weakens and dissipates over time, so frequently the seams will separate before the latex breaks down. Rule of thumb, the more you wear it, the shorter its lifespan.
@@ericspencer8093 - a bit late here, but I do have some stuff from Westward Bound that is still ok after 20 (!!) years. Not heavily worn I'd admit, but I'm surprised that it's still very elastic and shines up nicely. Airtight zip bags and some cleaning + Vivishine every now and then might be worth it ;-)
@@nasontackett oh, that's great because I just finished the whole process a few minutes ago and it seems to work great. The latex does feel a bit stiffer, is that normal?
@@GOAT_GOATERSON yes. What I have learned is that the process actually turns the surface of the latex into neoprene (just one layer of molecules thick). Neoprene is like toilet plunger material. It’s not as flexible but it is slick. You loose about 10% of the stretch of the latex.
@@nasontackett okay, thank you so much for answering my questions so quickly and clear. I really appreciate that. I already subscribed to you and I already liked the video and I'll make sure to share your videos with other rubberists
@@GOAT_GOATERSON I also now run a business called candy coated kink. I have a lot of repair videos for latex and pvc on that TH-cam channel and offer repair services and chlorination services too
Here is what I have learned… it can last just as long. But you have to take care of it. I had a catsuit I sold that I chlorinated s as no only wore a few times. It was 10 years old and was still in new condition so I sold it. Since I wasn’t wearing it, I left it in a bag with silicon lube covering it which keeps oxidation from happening and that’s one of the ways it will break down. The other way it will break down is from oil. I notice a lot of people that send me their outfits to repair (I run a business called candy coated kink) the chlorinated latex I receive for repair smells like nasty body funk a lot Of the time. My theory is people in general don’t wash the body oils out of their latex and it makes or smell. None of my stuff smells but I clean it with Dawn dish soap every time I take it off and immediately after I take it off to limit the exposure to my body oils. I just take it in the shower with me and I keep a bottle of dawn in there. Also, I give my chlorinated latex rub down if silicon lube at least once a year and let it soak it up. Latex is spongy and will soak stuff up. It’s better that it keep silicon in its pores so that it keeps oil and air out. This greatly prolongs the life.
@@nasontackett Thank you! I bought my first catsuit and I read about the Dawn dish soap. I’m just trying to educate myself about latex in general. Thanks again.
@@nasontackettOils (also PVC plasticizer from touching vinyl plastic) and contact with metals (particularly containing copper or silver) ruins latex. And it is ozone or the combination of UV/daylight and oxygen that damages latex (turns brittle and white), so use a dark airtight box. If you want to store latex visible/for display, keep it in a PE/PP plastic bag or airtight transparent box to avoid air contact while it is exposed to light.
Matthew Sequel Spencer Lewis it basically bleaches the Cotton. I wear 100% Cotton often when I’m doing this process and the liquid usually ends up on my sleeves. It’s just a really potent bleaching process to the cotton but other than changing the color it does not seem to do anything to the structure or feel of the fabric. I would just make sure you rinse really well to get any remaining chlorine out of the cotton
Hi. I plan on chlorinating a neck entry catsuit (no zips). Should the stretch still be sufficient enough post chlorination? Im a little worried now. Many thanks.
Amy, from my experience, if the catsuit is already really tight (ie: if it's a size or two smaller than it should be) and if it requires a lot of effort to get into, then it is going to be even harder to get in. If it fits pretty well, then you probably won't really notice the difference in stretch. Every catsuit I have done (including neck entry) that fit tight (but not unreasonably tight) fit after chlorination. There were two catsuits that I did run into that were textured latex from Rubear and were already two sizes too small and after chlorination they did not fit. The textured latex was more stretchy than standard latex and that's why it would fit even for being two sizes too small, but after chlorination, it lost it's crazy stretchy abilities. It could still be worn with the help of lube (normally anything chlorinated does not need lube). So I think you will be safe as long as it fits well even if it's neck entry... Best of luck! Let me know if it works out!
my latex catsuit is made for my 6'7" figure will the chlorination effect my ability to put it on. I am worried that I wont be able to wear it if i chlorinate it
RetiaryWorm471 wow! 6’7”!! If your outfit is made-to-measure and it fits correctly, the chlorination will work great and you will be able to put it on in just a few seconds rather than minutes. You are only in danger if you purchased an outfit that is a couple sizes too small (which some people do to make it tight). This becomes bad because the latex can no longer stretch that far. Hope this helps
I do them all the time. The zippers do have metal parts but they are typically painted and usually do just fine. I had had some snaps fall apart after chlorination but to be fair, they were in rough shape before chlorination and were easy to replace with some I picked up at hobby lobby
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I just tried this yesterday. Tried it on some elbow latex gloves to see the effect. I did it after looking at all the written forums and this very video to clarify exactly what I was getting into. Let me tell you, holy cow! They just slipped on. This video was the golden ticket to finally try it. Pretty cool.
Just wanted to say I finally got round to doing this and it worked great. I now have nice smooth latex garments which feel great, thank you so much for posting this vid, I would not have tackled this without such detailed step by step guide. No more talc and polish to mess around with for me!
Nice little video! I'd like to add a few observations. I used much larger plastic storage tubs and 5 gallon buckets. What I learned from experience:
Mixing the ingredients can be done with a wood stick, like a plunger handle that's not painted.
If you make the mixture stronger it will last up to a week if kept in an airtight container. The benefit is that you only need to soak the garments once and for only 30 seconds. The risk of course is over cooking the latex.
I used to mix all ingredients and when the mixture starts to effervesce it's ready for latex.
Chemicals are strong. Always do outside and use a fan for crosswind. Never used a mask. You'll know right away if you catch a whiff, it'll make eyes water and make you cough immediately. Tried it in a basement once, not cool, even with a sealed bucket; every time I opened it to use it I got gassed. So I moved it outside. Negative temps outside got me to try it. Front porch better.
Yes, chemicals are strong, but the real danger is trying to tough it out. You won't be bleeding from your lungs unless you are purposely sucking in pure chlorine gas. Chloric acid will eat through jeans but you probably won't notice it until you pull them out of the washing machine.
Have a garden hose ready if you think you are clumsy enough to spill the acid directly on skin.
Also, this reaction can be obtained using muriatic acid or unscented drano (alkali). You just have to adjust mixtures for different concentrations.
Jennifer Phillips wow!! Nice advise. That is a lot of good info. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences.
I am really glad to have found your video. I was really tired of polishing and vivishining over and over again. I have a cat suit that doesn't really fit that well (stretching only goes so far) so I can practice with that suit before using my other items. I will be doing a catsuit, shorts, chaps, harness, cuffs and gloves.
This worked a treat for me. It is amazing!! So easy, and it transforms the latex. I wish I'd done it years ago. It really does become 'silky'.
4UKP (about 6USD) for the acid from Amazon, and I've chlorinated several items and only used a bit of the bottle. It took me less than an hour to do the whole lot. I did it outside, on a windy day, so no worries about being gassed.
Thanks very much for the step-by-step guide - this prompted me to have a go at it.
I always come back to this video as I don't chlorinate often, so it's a good refresher course.
Andreas Mueller thank you so much for telling me 😊 I was hoping it would help other people. I have a new method I use now where I do it in a zip lock bag so it does not require a gas mask. You add a small zip lock bag of hydrogen peroxide and a small bag of sodium thiosulfate. These both neutralize chlorine. Peroxide works more with the chlorine in the liquid and the sodium thiosulfate works with the gas. Sodium thiosulfate is used in photography so it’s available online. It just sometimes take using a huge ziplock to hold catsuits. And you pop the peroxide when your done followed by opening the sodium thiosulfate. Test for chlorine with hot tub chlorine test strips
@@nasontackett Waaaaaait a minute, hold the phone, what? I also come back to this video each time I need a refresher, but the gas filters that I have to import from America cost a fortune, so if you have a new way of doing it without needing a gas mask I am your new best friend! Do you have a video on this too? Really would like to know the details of this as even with a mask, I have a fish pond and not a big outdoor area so it's less than ideal.
ArcanePath360 yes!! But it’s only really good if you are doing 1 thing at a time. If I’m doing a bunch, I still use the bucket method. The bag method uses a zip lock bag big that is at least 3 or 4 times the size of the article you are chlorinating so you can work with it through the bag. You fill 1 liter of water, add 30 ml of bleach, put the latex in, fill a small zip lock bag with hydrogen peroxide, and fill another small zip lock bag with sodium thiosulfate and add both those sealed bags inside the big bag with the latex. Fill a small glass bottle with 5mL of hydrochloric acid and put the cap on and put in the bag and seal it all up with at least half the bag filled with air so you can work with things. Make sure it’s sealed. You can double bag if you want to be really safe. Unscrew the cap on the hydrochloric acid to start the reaction. After a few minutes, burst the small bag with the hydrogen peroxide and burst the bag with the sodium thiosulfate to absorb the chlorine and convert it back to salt water. Use pool chlorine test strips to stick inside a small opening in the bag to check chlorine levels. It should indicate none. You may have to do the process twice to turn garment inside out. The sodium thiosulfate is used for photography so you can find it online. The glass tube is on amazon if you search 5mL glass pill bottle
@@nasontackett Thanks for getting back to me on this. I've looked at zip lock bags on Amazon but I'm not sure about them. Are they air/water tight? Can you recommend any large ones where you could fit a catsuit? I found this so far: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003U6FMOK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=AFBDIVRO7YS7G&psc=1 I really don't want to mess up that part since I'd be left breathing lethal gas. How do you burst the ziplock bags on the inside? By squeezing them? (I've never bought ziplock bags before so this is all new to me).
I guess all this is safe to flush away in a bathtub or do you still need to be outside?
@@ArcanePath360Simply put the latex into a bucket of water with some chlorine bleach. This avoids most of the poisonous gas nonsense. Of course it is still recommended to vent the room well. (If your posters and wallpapers loose colour and electronics dies of corrosion, you for sure did it wrong.)
I've been wearing latex for over a decade, and I only just discovered chlorination for some reason! thanks for your video. I use a "dressing agent" to put my suits on usually. I'm going to give this a try on one of my old suits and see if it's any easier to put on.
Oh yay! My wife and I love it. You can still polish it but the polish doesn’t stick around for a long time so you either do touch up polish on it or you just keep some suits unchlorinated that you want shiny and then chlorinate others that you want for fun or that you don’t mind looking matte. We keep a selection of both chlorinated and non chlorinated 🙂. The chlorinated feels amazing though
Thank you for making this video, it is incredibly informative and will no doubt prove helpful when I attempt chlorination. Out of interest what kind of mask and filters did you use?
I am happy you found the video useful.
The mask can be found here: www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B008MCUT86/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awdo_F6rAub197HSR4_tt
And the filter set can be found here: www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60929-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHL7W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awdo_K7rAub0E8E47F_tt
Thank you so much for the video. Very helpful. 🙏
This was very helpful. The only thing I'd be willing to be nitpicky about, is the mask is a particle mask...not really best used to avoid gasses. A snorkle mask that draws air from the back works better...and well, you're outside, so that reduces the risk greatly. So, I'm saying it isn't really affective, and slight overkill, but appreciate. Better to be safe than sorry. ✌🏽
There are better masks. But the filters that I’m using on the mask are not the typical filters that come with these masks. They are special filters designed for mercury vapor and chlorine gas. I have since switched to a much better full face mask that also covers the eyes and seals better on the face. A snorkel style mask where you could have the filter in the back would work even better. Being outside, especially if you also run a fan or have a good breeze, greatly limits your exposure. About the only time you really need it is when you get your face down close to the bucket
Meh... when I would do this at home.. my family and my neighbours would think I am walter white doing some work.. nahh.. to much risk :D
Thank you for this very informative video! I have just received a proper respirator mask with the right filter, and got my hands on the ingredients. The acid has 32%, however the bleach has 15%. Following your logic my ratio should then be 1 liter of water, 5 ml of Acid, 10 ml of bleach. Am I correct? Also, would it make a difference if I put a lit on the bucket during the process... or would it just fly off due to the pressure?
You are correct since my measurements were based on 5% bleach. You can try the lid. I actually do this in a huge ziplock bag now and neutralize the chlorine using sodium thiosulfate and it works great! The only thing is that you will want to agitate and turn your stuff inside out during the process. When I do it in the back, I just shake it the whole time and do it twice so I can turn inside out in between
@@nasontackett Thank you for your fast reply! Was thinking that with a lit I can do more pieces at a time, still knowing that I would have to repeat the process with the items inside out. As a matter of fact, I can get my hands on an old butter maker, which is basically a sort of closed drum, which you can spin around.
@@yvorbroer5149 the butter churn is a great idea! I might need to get one of these too!
@@nasontackett Yet the question is: does the mix expand, creating pressure on the drum. If not, I am good to go :-)
@@yvorbroer5149 when I do it in a big zip lock bag, I don’t notice any expansion after I unscrew the vile with the hydrochloric acid to start the reaction so I think you are ok.
Really well done
Thanks, I feel easier about tackling this now with your very helpful video. However I think I will use a stick rather than gloves as it looked like you were in danger of getting the mix spilled over the top into your gloves.
ArcanePath360 A stick is a very good idea actually. When I first started out doing this process, I used a 1 meter long fiberglass pole that worked well. After awhile I became more comfortable with the process and started using my hands because I could quickly turn outfits inside-out and peel parts that were stuck together. I just have to be really careful not to push my gloves down into the solution and allow it to spill into the glove. It is a risk. Once Hydrochloric Acid mixes with the water and Bleach, it does not have the same risk of burning your skin, but it is hard to estimate where in the process the reaction is and it is best not to risk burning yourself. Staying safe is always a good idea :-)
Nason Tackett Thanks. I don't have a good outdoor area so I'm going to do it on my stove, with the extractor hood on full power and the filters removed so it pulls fumes outside, then open a window behind me to suck fresh air in. I will probably keep the respirator on for a good while until it's all gone.
ArcanePath360 I would be very careful doing it inside. Chlorine gas is heavier than air so it sinks towards the ground (Chlorine gas used in chemical warfare would sink and stay in trenches for long periods of time). What I would be concerned with is the gas getting stuck in places outside of the airflow that you setup (corners, etc). If you have kids, dogs, cats, etc they will be breathing closer to the ground so this would be more of an issue for them. What I would do in your situation is have a way to detect the presence of Chlorine gas. Since you cant see it, it would be very wise to know what the levels are. Take a look at these Chlorine Gas detection badges (also if you search Chlorine gas detector, there are some electronic ones for about $150): www.google.com/shopping/product/12404618495394183266?q=chlorine+gas+detector&biw=1392&bih=783&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.92189499,d.eXY&tch=1&ech=1&psi=9I9BVb6QN8KWNqD8gMAK.1430360054431.13&ei=QJFBVY3aCNDvggSN7oHIDw&ved=0CHsQpiswADhk
Nason Tackett Thanks for that, it sounds like very hazardous stuff. I live alone so that's not an issue and have lots of windows and doors to create a through draft. I also have a dehumidifier with a big fan on it to circulate the air in the house. I guess I could sit in the garden for a bit when done while the house aerates. I don't want to spend much more on this as it's getting kinda expensive.
@@nasontackettSimply put the latex into a bucket of water with only some chlorine bleach. This avoids most of the poisonous gas nonsense. Of course it is still recommended to vent the room well. (If your posters and wallpapers loose colour and electronics dies of corrosion, you for sure did it wrong.)
Watched this and reading the comments has been a great help. I plan to do a test chlorination on a latex singlet before doing a few other garments and perhaps offering it to friends also. Will let you know how I go :)
hey there probably a stupid question but does the chlorination process have any effect on the glued seams of a latex garment? Could it be possible that the chemicals in the reaction bucket could compromise the glue used in the seams?
Jessie O'Brien I have chlorinated quite a bit over the years and what I can tell you is that I have never really seen any of the glue at the seams fail due to chlorination. But what I have seen is cracking of the latex right next to the seam and this seems to happen more frequently to latex that is chlorinated. I suspect it is because chlorinated latex is less stretchy and without the ability to stretch as much, it puts more stress on the area right next to the seam because it is half as thick as the overlapped seam so it is an area that concentrates stress. This seems to happen to non-chlorinated latex as well but it just takes a little more time. It is repairable though, but you do have to sand chlorinated latex first so that the glue will bond. I have had to do repairs next to seams usually just an inch or two at a time. This tends to happen to chlorinated latex after a few years of use.
Excellent! Thank you very much :D
CAN be deadly thats a funny one.. if you get that stuff into ur longues you will start to cough blood and you will be deadwithin seconds theres no doctor in all the world that can save ya if u inhale that, chlore is made to make sure no living organisms survive, it destroys all fungi bacteria microbi and virus, you use this stuff when you go into africa to wipe out ebola strains when you dress up in class 3 security suits.
Natural latex decays and breaks down over time, regardless of how well you take proper care of it. A warning sign of when your latex garment is nearing the end of its lifespan is it starts to thin and gets a gummy, sticky feeling to it. Latex clothing has a particularly shorter lifespan because of exposure to body fluids and external substances (like deodorants, perfumes, etc) speeds up the decay. Temperatures also play a roll---both cold and hot, as well as sunlight. I've been collecting and wearing latex for better than 30 years now, and the longest life I've ever gotten out of a garment is 6 years---that's with only wearing it once or twice a year. Chlorination will actually extend the lifespan of latex slightly by adding a protective barrier to the latex. But it only helps so much. Latex glue also weakens and dissipates over time, so frequently the seams will separate before the latex breaks down. Rule of thumb, the more you wear it, the shorter its lifespan.
@@ericspencer8093 - a bit late here, but I do have some stuff from Westward Bound that is still ok after 20 (!!) years. Not heavily worn I'd admit, but I'm surprised that it's still very elastic and shines up nicely. Airtight zip bags and some cleaning + Vivishine every now and then might be worth it ;-)
Does it matter if it's hot or cold water?
It doesn’t seem to. I’ve done it in near freezing temperatures and in 98 degree weather
@@nasontackett oh, that's great because I just finished the whole process a few minutes ago and it seems to work great. The latex does feel a bit stiffer, is that normal?
@@GOAT_GOATERSON yes. What I have learned is that the process actually turns the surface of the latex into neoprene (just one layer of molecules thick). Neoprene is like toilet plunger material. It’s not as flexible but it is slick. You loose about 10% of the stretch of the latex.
@@nasontackett okay, thank you so much for answering my questions so quickly and clear. I really appreciate that. I already subscribed to you and I already liked the video and I'll make sure to share your videos with other rubberists
@@GOAT_GOATERSON I also now run a business called candy coated kink. I have a lot of repair videos for latex and pvc on that TH-cam channel and offer repair services and chlorination services too
Will the garment last just as long or will it wear it down over time?
Here is what I have learned… it can last just as long. But you have to take care of it. I had a catsuit I sold that I chlorinated s as no only wore a few times. It was 10 years old and was still in new condition so I sold it. Since I wasn’t wearing it, I left it in a bag with silicon lube covering it which keeps oxidation from happening and that’s one of the ways it will break down. The other way it will break down is from oil. I notice a lot of people that send me their outfits to repair (I run a business called candy coated kink) the chlorinated latex I receive for repair smells like nasty body funk a lot Of the time. My theory is people in general don’t wash the body oils out of their latex and it makes or smell. None of my stuff smells but I clean it with Dawn dish soap every time I take it off and immediately after I take it off to limit the exposure to my body oils. I just take it in the shower with me and I keep a bottle of dawn in there. Also, I give my chlorinated latex rub down if silicon lube at least once a year and let it soak it up. Latex is spongy and will soak stuff up. It’s better that it keep silicon in its pores so that it keeps oil and air out. This greatly prolongs the life.
@@nasontackett Thank you! I bought my first catsuit and I read about the Dawn dish soap. I’m just trying to educate myself about latex in general. Thanks again.
@@morghan_with_an_h that’s awesome!! If you treat it right, there is no reason it shouldn’t last for 10 years or more
@@nasontackettOils (also PVC plasticizer from touching vinyl plastic) and contact with metals (particularly containing copper or silver) ruins latex. And it is ozone or the combination of UV/daylight and oxygen that damages latex (turns brittle and white), so use a dark airtight box. If you want to store latex visible/for display, keep it in a PE/PP plastic bag or airtight transparent box to avoid air contact while it is exposed to light.
I am thinking of using this process for some latex coated fabric. Do you know how chlorination affects 100% cotton?
Matthew Sequel Spencer Lewis it basically bleaches the Cotton. I wear 100% Cotton often when I’m doing this process and the liquid usually ends up on my sleeves. It’s just a really potent bleaching process to the cotton but other than changing the color it does not seem to do anything to the structure or feel of the fabric. I would just make sure you rinse really well to get any remaining chlorine out of the cotton
Hi. I plan on chlorinating a neck entry catsuit (no zips). Should the stretch still be sufficient enough post chlorination? Im a little worried now. Many thanks.
Amy, from my experience, if the catsuit is already really tight (ie: if it's a size or two smaller than it should be) and if it requires a lot of effort to get into, then it is going to be even harder to get in. If it fits pretty well, then you probably won't really notice the difference in stretch. Every catsuit I have done (including neck entry) that fit tight (but not unreasonably tight) fit after chlorination. There were two catsuits that I did run into that were textured latex from Rubear and were already two sizes too small and after chlorination they did not fit. The textured latex was more stretchy than standard latex and that's why it would fit even for being two sizes too small, but after chlorination, it lost it's crazy stretchy abilities. It could still be worn with the help of lube (normally anything chlorinated does not need lube). So I think you will be safe as long as it fits well even if it's neck entry... Best of luck! Let me know if it works out!
wonder is he has a cute mask like a ms advantage 1000 or a airboss lbm [3m 5702 oh lol]
I like this video a lot. But I currently can’t do this atm. Does flour work the same as talcum powder when putting latex on??
Antonio Yazzie I think it would work
Antonio Yazzie I can. I am located in Alabama, USA
Nason Tackett oh okay. I’m in Phoenix Az
I should have my next latex wears sent to you then you can chlorinate for me.
Antonio Snider email me at nasontackett@gmail.com
my latex catsuit is made for my 6'7" figure will the chlorination effect my ability to put it on. I am worried that I wont be able to wear it if i chlorinate it
RetiaryWorm471 wow! 6’7”!! If your outfit is made-to-measure and it fits correctly, the chlorination will work great and you will be able to put it on in just a few seconds rather than minutes. You are only in danger if you purchased an outfit that is a couple sizes too small (which some people do to make it tight). This becomes bad because the latex can no longer stretch that far. Hope this helps
What happens if I want to chlorinate a catsuit with a crotch zipper?
I do them all the time. The zippers do have metal parts but they are typically painted and usually do just fine. I had had some snaps fall apart after chlorination but to be fair, they were in rough shape before chlorination and were easy to replace with some I picked up at hobby lobby
Ah, ok. I'm also worried about having to pull apart parts of the suit that are stuck together as I'm chlorinating
@@sofoniza the best way to fix this problem is to powder it with corn starch or talc powder. It does not affect the chlorination
@@nasontackett awww thanks man, will do
Dont do it on the lawn as any chemical spills will be impossible to contain
good for the environment........ not.