I really appreciate and enjoy your videos. I’ve done all 4 motor mounts, valve cover gaskets, alternator, spark plugs wires ignition coil, transmission pan gasket and filter, rear calipers brake hoses, rear shocks,abs wheel sensors, pads and rotors myself so far and did have a friend help with the starter and two of the mounts since being a homeschool mom of two sometimes things get hectic. lol Watching your videos getting ready for another round of work. Plan on doing sway bark bushings and links, struts, control arms, cv axles tie rods along with new brake hoses, abs wheel sensors, calipers rotors and pads. My hope is to get another 100k miles out of my 199k 2006 town and country 3.8L Please keep these videos coming. It’s been a godsend for the diy’r like myself. ❤
J. Hughes As a retired Army mechanic I was simply impressed with the professionalism of your video production! Clear and to-the-point instructions! You don't waste my time. Thank you for the time and effort that you put into these videos! Especially enjoyed the "how to" on performing an interior detailing project.
Well I really appreciate the great compliment Jeffrey. It makes my day to receive such a nice comment. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback and thank you for your service.
Fel Pro is the best!! Outstanding video! I'm about to do this job tomorrow. And the underneath of that van is CLEAN! And nice job on the extra safety! I have the same ramps, very good ramps, and youre wearing a Ford hat 👍👍
Very professional video! You are giving not just the tool specs, angles, etc., but also tips for cleaning and ... more. I use the same blue gloves, simple and best. For perfection, make a video on how to not bust your skin and have a scar for weeks!
@George Cazacu - Thank you very much for the compliment! I love my gloves, LOL. It's funny, I'm always doing dirty projects but I hate getting my hands filthy dirty. Especially grease and oil because sometimes no matter how much you wash afterwards it doesn't all come out. I keep your video suggestion in mind for the future too although I have quite a few scars from over the years so I'm not sure how good my advice would be on that one! :) I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you!
@@javosgarageI rebuilt one motor (honing cylinders, etc.), mounted 3 transmissions, replaced clutch on manual transmission 4 times. Your video on such a simple job (no derogatory intended) is just VERY WELL DONE. Those gloves are great, just know how to use them!
@hatfez - I bet that tour was really interesting and fun. I would love to do that sometime. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Super excellent video. No superflous info. No time wasting. Helped me w/ a broken off dipstick I had to drill out of the block. Also; safety stuff is very thorough. .... Very caring / helpful to those w/ less experience who haven't been under a car. By the way; I'm an ametuer on cars, but have made guitars for 30+ years. I know my stuff, and maybe one day I'll make a helpful video as good as yours. Thanks
Most youtuber mechanics could take a lesson from you on how to do a repair video. Very clear and stable filming and explained well. This is by far the best video I found on this repair. Others had extra unneeded steps that you clearly showed were not necessary. I did this job after watching and a month later all is well. I didn't use the included clips - just laid the gasket on the pan and put 2 bolts through the long sides (one per side) set in place and started the 2 bolts to hold it, and all the other bolts went in easy. Thanks for a great & helpful video.
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan and have started doing my own maintenance over the recent years (i.e., spark plugs, struts, brakes, headlights, etc.). I started noticing my oil pan looking "wet" around the edges and figured I needed a new gasket. So glad I found your video; it's EXACTLY what I was looking for! New subscriber. Thank you!
Best explanations ever! Love the safety considerations at the start of the video. Great production and sound quality, too. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome video! Best I could find on TH-cam. Very well filmed and explained. And it actually covered the Town & Country and not the Dodge Caravan, even though they're basically the same thing. I am simply amazed at how clean the underside of your vehicle was when you shot this video! If only.... LOL! You have a new subscriber!
Gozmo FlysLow - Thank you! Believe it or not, it's not really difficult to clean the undercarriage so that it looks like this. For me, I will pull the car up on ramps and then pressure wash the area. I think you've given me an idea for another video! This particular pan was leaking pretty bad and it was a real mess under here and that just drives me crazy so the first step of a repair for me is to clean the work space. I use this inexpensive pivoting nozzle on my pressure washer that allows me to get in at funny angles to get the job done: amzn.to/2Ozq2dP - I really like this attachment because you can also get into the wheel wells too. Many uses! Thank you so much for taking the time to comment and leave me some feedback, much appreciated! Funny enough, I see you're into flying - my brother works for Pilatus. He helped instill the cleanliness and attention to detail in my work ethic.
@Glen Hurley - Thank you for the compliment! Funny enough, I'm finishing up another one of these jobs today. You'll be happy with the Fel-Pro gasket, I've never had an issue with them. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to leave me some feedback, I really appreciate it! Let me know if I can help with any questions.
Wow, c'est mon premier commentaire en français! Je suis heureux d'apprendre que vous avez trouvé ma vidéo utile. Merci de vous être arrêté et d'avoir pris un moment pour me laisser un commentaire. Je m'excuse pour la réponse tardive, je suis loin de YT depuis un petit moment.
I just did that job on wife’s van yesterday I also agree forgo the “snap ups” unless you have a vehicle where you can put the pan straight up without having to angle the pan in different directions to get it in place
@K Dub - Agreed. I just find them to actually cause issues as opposed to solve any issues. This job can easily be completed without them. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
I just bought one of these 2006 SXT Grand Caravan loaded with options. Some one stole the cat. So they sold it for $800.00... It has 101k miles..Clean as they come. I fixed them automatic side doors. As the wire was broke on one side. The other side some of them cat links were missing. So I fixed that. They both work now. I'm not even a Dodge person. But I know all the issues people have with them ECM coil drivers going south..And the wiring harness under the intake likes to get cooked. So I will be doing all these repairs. As I loathe oil leaks...
@thingstoknow - Thank you very much for the compliments! It always puts a big smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone with their project. I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - thank you!
This is cool. Happened to find your site via TH-cam's "you might like" search feature. I have a '06 with the 3.8 that needs some loving and your videos are spot on for what I need to accomplish. Now I need to binge watch all of your videos to see what else I can learn... :-)
@jcherokee - Thank you very much for the compliment! I apologize for the delay, I've spent the last few days working with the wife and kids to set things up for school here at home. What a project! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment, thank you.
@Patrick Mahaffey - Thank you for the compliment and you're very welcome! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
@dm - Thank you very much for the compliment! Your 2008 will be different however, you have a two piece pan that has an upper and a lower. I plan to make that video the next time I get that generation van. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Thanks for this video! This helps me think I can get it done and not spend the $400 I was quoted for this job! And LOVE the HF tools, they're a fav in my garage.
@Kenneth Turner - You're very welcome! This isn't a tough job IMHO, if you have some basic mechanical skills it should be no problem. I have a wide variety of tools in my box - HF, SnapOn, Matco, Husky, Kobalt, OTC, Lisle, etc. I'm a big believer in the best tool for the best price is what works for me. To be honest, that HF long reach swivel head ratchet I used in this video is going to go or I may change the head. I really like having the release button for the sockets and the more I use that ratchet the more I realize how much it's needed. I was disappointed they left that out on the Icon line as well. I also wish the swivel head was indexed because that's been a bit of an issue as well. Just my two pennies if you're thinking of getting one. If those two aren't something you're concerned about they're a great ratchet.
I have the drain plug tool too. Yeah, it's still makes a mess, but, when changing the oil on a car that just drove up and oil is cooking, it will save you from having to handle or soaked with hot oil.
@Kaa Zee - Thank you and you're welcome! Looks like you have a few projects on your van coming up soon, I hope they go great for you. One tip that someone else asked about - make sure to allow some time for your RTV to dry. If possible, I let mine sit overnight otherwise take a little break and allow it to sit for at least a few hours before adding your oil. Let me know if you have any questions along the way. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment, I appreciate it!
Hello Great video. When I removed the access panel, and moved it out of the way. There was a little foam that broke off. It looks like it is to prevent debris behind the panel. Do I need to do something? I can figure out what would go back in there.
Good Afternoon My Friend! Are You Able To Do A Video Showing The Jack Points Of A 2003 Dodge Caravan For When Using A Floor Jack With 4 Jack Stands Please?
@fernaherm - Thank you very much for the compliments! I think your my first comment from Peru, welcome to Javo's Garage! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Excellent video, thanks! I tried to do this job months ago but when I ran into the bolt located next to that metal cover I stopped. Now I was able to complete the job by following this video. What I realize is that I did not wait for the gasket maker to dry before adding the new oil. Hopefully that was not a big mistake.
I realize I did this repair but also the one from the video titled "Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement" (same youtube channel). That is the one that requires to apply the gasket maker. No more oil leaks as of now.
Thank you for using the a quality filter in the proper dimensions. I’m so tired of seeing these undersized quicky-lube garbage cans on cars…gosh, I wonder why the engine wears out in 100k miles…
@Florazel Lamar - Thank you very much Florazel! It always puts a big smile on my face to hear a viewer enjoyed one of my videos and hopefully gained some valuable information. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
You left put one essential tool. A 9000lb lift. I got one about 20 years ago and instantly realized that I should have had one 20 years earlier. When you get into a job which requires that you work repeatedly both under and over the car it can take more than half of the work out of it. And the lift also deals with the problem of safety. I have floor jacks, creepers and jack stands left from before the lift. And sometimes use them. but not often. At 76 I'm long past tired of crawling around on the floor.
@Michael Krieger - Thank you very much for the compliments and subscribing to my channel! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
@Robert Ablalos - Hello Robert! It always puts a big smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone with their project. Super glad to hear it. Thank you very much for the compliment and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - much appreciated!
Hi Shawn. I'm sorry, I don't understand your question. The Fel-Pro oil pan gasket (OS30622R) comes with the main gasket that can only be installed one way, an o-ring for the pickup tube (should you decide to change it), and the plastic hangers to help hold the gasket during the installation of the pan. I hope that answers your question.
Since you have the pan off you should change your oil pump pickup tube, they only cost about 25 bucks, sometimes they are clogged with gunk from the oil
Good advice Michael. I always inspect the screen to make sure there's no obstruction to the oil flow. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment. Thank you.
Very good and detailed video. I paused video when you were about to tighten the screws, bcuz I wanted to ask about when you took down the pan, you didn't mention anything about how to deal with the ongoing residual oil dripping after pan is down. I've found in the past that some time must be allowed for the oil drip to stop. You want to have an oil-free mating surface the moment the pan goes up, correct? So, did you wait? This is one part home mechanics need to know.
@J P - My experience has been 90% of the residual oil that drips while your working comes from the pick up tube and the crank shaft area. Having said that, I like to get the vehicle ready to start the job and then let it sit for an hour or so. This accomplishes two things: 1. It allows the motor and oil to cool down and 2. It provides time for the oil to drain down into the pan. You'll see at about 15:55 when I start to put the gasket back in position there isn't oil dripping on the sides where the gasket will seat but there is still a little bit dripping out of the pick up tube. It usually takes me at least 15 minutes to clean the pan really good so it's ready to install and then right before I put everything back together I clean the mating surfaces on the block. I have done at least 20 of these oil pan gaskets and this process has never let me down, I've never had a leak. Knock on wood - LOL! Thank you for the comment sir!
@@MusicMinisterJP7 Here's a tip: RELAX. You could wait until the next coming of Halley's Comet, neither the crankcase of an engine or the lower end of a transmission will entirely stop dripping oil. There is so much oil on the internal surfaces, from the valve gallery down to the crankshaft, that just when you think the oil is all gone, another droplet is forming to come your way. Sure, you want to wipe down the seating surfaces as best as possible. But if you are using a quality gasket and are installing it per manufacturer's recommendations, a drop or two of oil on the seating surfaces is not going to matter at all. And it is very likely to occur in the time you are futzing with the gasket and the pan trying to get it seated and tightened up. So don't sweat it. I've been doing this since 1978, and can attest that this applies both to pans using a gasket and to those that seal entirely using RTV. It is far, far more important to ensure that the pan and block mating surfaces are totally devoid of any old gasket material or gasket adhesive before proceeding than to worry about whether there might be a couple of drops of oil there.
Javo, I tried this video today March 19th, 2020 but had problems getting the 18mm bolt that holds the trans cover, what the beat way to get this bolt lossened without cracking/breaking it off? Otherwise great video.
@Tino Arreguin - Hi Tino, sorry you're having a problem. I have always used a 3/8" 18mm deep socket along with my extended flex head ratchet. Maybe once or twice i needed to go up to a 1/2" breaker bar to get more leverage. Make sure you're not using a 12 point socket so you can get the best grip possible too. Hope that helps you a little. I've never had one of those give me huge problems, they've always come out with a few grunts. I guess in an absolute worst case scenario you could use an impact with a universal joint but I have never had to escalate things to that level. Good luck!
Hi Thanks for the great video! I just changed my pan gasket on my 2006 town n country. No leaks! The pan was a bit stubborn getting off so had to use a putty knife and exacto knife to sort of chisel out the old gasket maker material.also gave it several hard whacks with a rubber mallet. Hope this helps someone . So once I did that I got it to drop. Since u have worked on these models, I have a question. I have a p0406 and p0128 code. This is egr valve malfunction and a thermostat type error. Thing is I have changed these already Y myself and these codes came back. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Hi John. Thank you for the compliment on the video, I'm glad it was able to help you. The 0406 90% of the time is the EGR valve IMHO and I understand it may be a new one but my experience has been that the aftermarket EGR valves can have some "reliability issues" so I would start there. If you changed it yourself and you got it from one of the chain part stores you should be able to exchange it for a new one with no hassle. The 0128 is usually the thermostat as well but could also be caused by a bad ECT or "engine coolant temperature" sensor and sometimes even the IAT or "intake air temp" sensor (far more rare though). Now, maybe you're "lucky" enough to get two replacements that went out around the same time or you could be dealing with a wiring issue since these are related to the same harness. There have been many cases where the harness that runs under the intake manifold gets too hot and melts some of the wiring. Take a look in there for possible problems as well as the rest of the harness. Hope that helps you a bit.
Thanks for posting a great video on this repair. I will be doing mine soon on a 2007 Caravan. There is another video of this repair where the guy says he has to remove that coolant pipe to lower the pan. So you did not have to remove that coolant pipe to lower the pan?
@Canadian Drifter - I have never had to remove the coolant line to perform this repair and I've done at least twenty of these. You'll see at 10:05 when I remove the pan this is easy to do with that line in place. Just drop the back of the pan (next to transmission) first and then back it out. Removing that coolant line will add at least 30-45 minutes to your job because not only do you have to reinstall it and put all your coolant back in, then you have to bleed the air out of your cooling system. Save yourself some time and leave the coolant line alone, it's a non-issue for this job. You'll thank me for it when your done. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage Thanks for the reply back. I'm glad I saw your video. Saved me doing unnecessary work. Your videos and voice over are excellent. Will be watching your other Caravan repairs too. Cheers from Canada!
@Canadian Drifter - Thank you for the compliment! I have been working on improving the audio quality of my content. It's nice to see someone notices! Good luck on your repair. It's not a bad job, you'll do just fine.
Hi Javo, just finished doing this repair in a parking lot and everything worked out. No leaks! So glad I watched your video. Hey, I have a question. I replaced the parking brake cable from pedal assembly to equalizer. How do you pull the new cable and/or equalizer bracket tight enough together to make it? I will try to back off both rear shoe adjuster dials for a bit of slack but do you use a special clamp? And/or is there a trick to bring cables together to join front and back at equalizer? Thanks.
@Canadian Drifter - I'm so sorry for the delayed response! For some reason YT is not giving me notifications when someone comes back and responds to a "prior" comment. I just happened to be scrolling through some things tonight and saw this thankfully! Glad to hear your repair went well and you have no leaks - well done! In regards to that brake cable, I've only had to deal with that once or twice and if I remember correctly I ended up using a squeeze type bar clamp to hook on the equalizer bar and the other end to the frame (I have a few that vary between 12" and 36") to be able to pull it back, hold it there, and then slide the cable back into position. Bar clamps can be used for more than woodworking, who knew? Sometimes desperation is the catalyst of invention! I remember that project gave me some fits too.
Stellar tutorial, but I do have one problem -- I managed to remove and replace the oil gasket on my 2001 Dodge Caravan today, but I had some trouble getting the sliding plate to come down. When it did, the rubber shelving (not sure how else to describe it) flaked off the metal. Now, having finished and secured everything back on (very satisfying feeling, btw), I'm merely unable to get the plate to slide back in. The upper-left corner, the side that pivots, is clanking against something back there no matter how I wiggle it back.
@James Murrell - It’s common for that foam strip to be brittle so it breaks apart and falls off. It’s designed to help keep debris from getting into the housing. When I checked with my local dealerships and part stores there was no replacement offered. When that happens I remove the plate entirely, clean it real good making sure all residue is removed and then place a piece of weather stripping along that line. In regards to getting that plate back up two things... 1. Make sure that large 18mm bolt is loose to help be able to move your inspection plate. 2. On some models, there is a tab on the back side that bends into the housing. Trying pulling the inspection plate away from the housing a little bit and then slide it up. Let me know if this solves your problem.
@@javosgarage The weather stripping seems to fit nicely -- thanks for the tip. I did indeed have to hammer the tab on the end of the plate into a flat surface because it simply wasn't going back in. Now it looks more like the one in your video.
That is awesome. I really like hearing my video has been able to help someone get their job done and save some cash! Congrats on a job well done, nothing beats the satisfaction of completing a job like this yourself.
Parts cheap for the pan I gotta do mine on my wife and I van I'm just gonna replace the pan looks bad probably has leaks idk theres alot oil around the pan but it doesnt leak out on the ground only on the pan
@RobGamer - Hi Rob, its not too expensive. The parts should run you around $75 with the gasket, sealant, cleaner, oil and filter. The labor part isn't bad, everything is pretty easy to get your hands on. What usually happens is that it starts to seep oil around the edges of your pan gasket and it builds up on the the pan. When it gets bad enough to drip is when the real mess starts because it not only drips on the ground but it also blows down the underside of your van when your going down the road. Let me know if you need any advice along the way, I'm happy to help. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage thanx man on Ebay it was like $40 for the pan and gasket my car is a 2008 chrysler town and country figured it was pretty close to the same to change never done it
@RobGamer I have not done a pan gasket on the 08+ models but I do believe it's a two piece pan design with an upper and lower to deal with so it is different. I think the upper uses an RTV sealant while the lower is a gasket. I wish I could be of more help to you, I just haven't done this procedure on one of those. I'll do what I can to help you if you have any questions though. I do have a Haynes manual that covers those years.
Although I have yet to attempt to make this change myself, I found the video very informative thank you. However, I have an '08 town and country. It looks like the same oil pan and gasket. Do you know if the set up is the same?
@Shandon ehredt - I apologize for my late response. Directly, I have not done a pan gasket on the '08 and newer models. Having said that I believe they are similar but I do know for sure there are certainly differences. If I recall correctly the '08+ models have a two piece pan design (an upper and a lower). Without a doubt it will have different steps than what this procedure contains. I'm sorry I'm not able to provide you further information. I do have a Haynes manual for that series of vans so I will be happy to look up any information you may need if you would like, just let me know. Thank you for stopping by and giving me a little grace on my late response. Have a great day!
@Shandon ehredt - I looked around a bit for you and I see what you mean. I guess the next time I get that generation of van I'll remember to do a oil pan gasket video, there is certainly a need for one. I did find a video a guy did changing the pan gasket on his '09 Jeep that also has the 3.8L motor. Naturally, there are some differences but the basics of the motor pan gasket itself should be the same. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/h2ikeXHgVNU/w-d-xo.html Hopefully that will help give you some info and pointers for your application. Wish I could help you more. Like I said, don't hesitate to ask any questions and I'll see what info my Haynes manual could provide to help you as well.
what do you call the panel that you loosen to access the 2 hidden bolts? The foam on mine broke off when moving it so I want to replace it, but I cannot find that part online. I'm guessing I'm calling it a wrong name...
Unfortunately you won't find that access plate anywhere online (I've tried in the past). I have had the foam break off before and my solution was to use a piece of foam weatherstripping that I found at my local hardware store. Fixed my problem! I hope that helps you. I apologize for the delayed response. Thanks for stopping by!
@Mike Selsvik - Hi Mike. I have never had any issue whatsoever with the seals on the pickup tubes so I leave it. You can certainly change it while you're in there if you'd like, I just found it to be an unnecessary repair. Thanks for stopping by!
@John Zorland - My Haynes manual does not provide a torque specification for those bolts. For the smaller 10mm bolts I always tighten to snug plus a quarter turn. The larger 18mm bolt is the same, sometimes it takes a little more than a quarter turn as I want to make sure that brace is secure. Just to be clear though, the pan bolts are 105 INCH pounds, not foot pounds. Big difference there, LOL! Thanks for stopping by, let me know if I can answer anything else for you. You got this!
It sure helps to not have to deal with rust issues. I see some cars from back east or up north and it's amazing what happens to them in just a short period of time. Thanks for stopping by!
Hey Javo. Have you used a full synthetic in the 3.8 or do you stick with a blend? Ever used the Walmart Super-Tech full synthetic? I've got a 2006 Caravan with 55K that I've used conventional in and I'm thinking about switching to a synthetic.
@Simon Suso - Hi Simon. I generally am in the camp of using a synthetic blend as opposed to a full synthetic for "older" (more than 10 years) vehicles or those with higher miles although 55k is lower miles in your van (a rare find in these vans). I know many would disagree but my personal experience leads me to believe it can sometimes lead to leaks that weren't there before. I just so happen to like Castrol High Mileage and it has done very well in my experience. I have not used any Walmart oil so I'm sorry but I can't offer an opinion on something I have no experience with. I hope that answers your question.
I've run Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic in my 2004 Grand Caravan 3.3 since it was new. Had the valve covers off last summer, at 123k miles the valve gallery is impeccably clean, no carbonized oil or black oil goop of any kind. The vehicle has not experienced any "excessive" oil leaks in my opinion (remember it is a Chrysler product, all of which leak oil at some point). I repalced the valve covers gaskets at 110K with new Felpro gaskets, because the OE gaskets had totally hardened and started to leak (again, typical Chrysler).
@Matthew Kinney - You bet I can! Next time I pick up one of these vans (and I’m looking for my next one right now) I will make that video. Thanks for stopping by!
When installing my new oil pan, I over tightened one of the bolts and it broke off at the head, with the rest of the bolt stuck inside of the hole. The rest of the bolts are nice and tight. I took it for a drive and its not leaking. Do i need to drill out that broken bolt and replace it, or should I just leave it alone if its not leaking?
@Ramiro Membreno - Whatever it was it was certainly a fail! Oh well, that's how jobs go. It seems more often than not something happens and you're thinking "What?!?! You've got to be kidding me!" I am trying to get the drain plug tool to be more comfortable in front of the camera though. LOL Hey, thanks for stopping by and putting a smile on my face today - much appreciated!
I'm going behind someone who has managed to leave the pan plug almost rounded off. Looks like they used vise grips. I used a small pipe wrench and vise grips hoping to get it out. It's getting to the point I'm almost to a nub. Any suggestions? Thanks.
YIf it is long enough, you may be able to get it off with a stud puller socket, which is made for removing broken studs. An impact wrench might help here as well with the stud puller socket. You also might want to try applying heat to the plug before attempting to loosen and remove it again. If all else fails, you could follow this video and replace your pan, pan gasket and drain plug with new ones.
@@StilettoSniper Thanks. I bought a set of stud puller sockets and the 13mm worked. Definitely a good investment for anyone working on an old vehicle or any corroded equipment. Appreciate the recommendation.
Hi Shawn. It's quite simple, there is one fastener located at the base of the pickup tube. Simply remove the fastener and pull down on the tube to expose the o-ring. Hope that helps. Thanks for stopping by!
@david griffiths - I just did a quick search for you... You can pick one up at Advance (my local store had one in stock) for $70, however you can easily find a 20% coupon for them which puts you at about $55. I have also come across quite a few 25% coupons for Advance lately too. Only a few listed on Amazon, the cheapest was $32.50 with a May 15th delivery. I also looked up a price for the local salvage yard and it was $25 with a $2 core fee, so $27. eBay, they're running between $30-$120. Something of this nature I prefer to buy new. I can be sure there's no dents, warps or other possible damage that just means more expense and labor. For the small price difference it's worth it in my opinion. I would be very cautious of the really cheap pans, but that's just me. I have never had to actually replace the pan itself but if I did I would be heading over to my local store to pick one up so if I have any issues I don't have to let the vehicle sit while I ship the part back to get a replacement. Hope this helps you. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage I agree, I thought new would be the way to go. I plan to keep this as long as I can. My 2007 Caravan almost hit 300,000 but a guy hit it. I appreciate your advice!!
@Zylix Zylix - GREAT advice. Initially, I always hand tighten the bolts until snug. The few extra minutes is more than worth the possible hassle and extra time needed to correct a cross thread. Using a torque wrench to apply the proper amount of force is also important, you wouldn't want to strip the threads. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave some valuable feedback, I really appreciate it!
@f1nals1ght yt - Hello, it's possible that was updated in the later years. I just grabbed an '06 Owner's Manual to verify; it states 5W-30 for the 2.4 Liter engines and 5W-20 for the 3.3/3.8 Liter engines. Also, when you go buy your oil and filter from the parts store ask them what they show as the recommended oil. I know my local Advance Auto store usually has the updated info in their system for all makes and models. Hope that helps you a bit. Thanks for stopping by!
@WeAreWatching Yu - Certainly something to think about. For me, I go with the factory recommendations on grade type but I do switch to the "High Mileage" when I hit the 75k mark. Actually, I was using the Castrol High Mileage in this particular application. I own a Ford Superduty diesel and boy I've read some looong discussions on what type and weight of oil to use, far more opinions than options - LOL. Ultimately, go with what you believe to be the best solution for you. Thanks for stopping by and leaving some useful info to help others - much appreciated!
Whether or not to use a "high mileage" version of a motor oil is entirely up to the vehicle owner. However, I would stick with an oil viscosity recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. I would NOT, for example, use 10W-30 in an older vehicle if only 0W-20 or 5W-30 is recommended, no matter how many miles it has.
You will definitely need a gasket for this. The Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker is for where multiple surfaces come together and there may be a gap not filled by the gasket. Hope that answers your question. Sorry for the delay!
3.3 - хороший двигатель. Приятно видеть, что вы получили 250 000 км от вашего. Я бы сказал, придерживайтесь того, что работает для вас, это здорово! Спасибо, что заглянули и нашли минутку, чтобы оставить мне комментарий.
@david griffiths - I did remove both front wheels. However, I only removed those because I needed to do a brake inspection and the van was already up so I took them off to give me more room to video the procedure. You do NOT have to remove the wheels to change the oil pan gasket. I've changed out the pan gaskets before where I just pulled the van up on my ramps. I have learned the more room you can safely give yourself under there the easier the job will be to complete. Hope that helps you, thanks for stopping by!
@david griffiths - I hear that. Last week was cold and snowy, today is sun but still pretty chilly. I'm looking forward to this weekend when we're supposed to see some 70's finally! I have many car projects backed up right now so it will be a busy weekend. Let me know if you have any questions along the way, I'll be glad to help.
@Arthur W Day - Hello Arthur, I'm not sure I understand your question but let's see if I can help you out here. If you mean the splash shield located in the front, passenger wheel well that covers the front of the motor then that does not need to be removed for this job. If by chance your talking about the access plate at the rear of the oil pan by the transmission the removal procedure is at the 7:25 mark. I hope this answers your question, if I misunderstood please give me a little more info as to the location of the shield your asking about and I'll be glad to help any way I can. Thanks for stopping by!
@Mike Selsvik - Hi Mike. No I don't. As you can see from the video I am easily able to complete the repair with the bracket in place. You may have seen in some of my other videos, I certainly have no problem taking additional steps if I believe it will make my job go easier or allow me to do a better job. In this case, I just don't think there's a benefit to removing the bracket. Really it comes down to personal preference. Hopefully this covers your question. Thanks for stopping by again!
@Mike Selsvik - I haven't worked on producing that video yet, I'm not efficient at editing so it takes me a long time to make my videos, I spent about 6 hours on the two videos in this series. Sorry, but it should come out sometime in future. I actually have about 5 more videos on these vans, I just haven't had the time to work on them. I'm in the process of editing some tool review videos and when they're done I'll get back to repair videos.
@Jason S - That is too funny! (No pun intended since he's a comedian) To be honest I had to do a search real quick because I didn't recognize the name but when I listened to him speak in an interview I had to laugh because I definitely see what you're saying. Thanks for putting a smile on my face. Have a great day!
Daniel Guzman - Yes sir. Most places will wait 1-2 hours, some even less. Naturally, this video is edited down for time constraints. For me, I always let it sit overnight before adding oil and I've never had one leak. Hope that helps you, thanks for stopping by!
FOR FUTURE DIY PEOPLE! I have a 2010 town and country with a 16 bolt oil pan. THERE IS NO GASKET! You will need to use rtv gasket maker. Thank you for the video. I was able to do this with your instructions.
Good info. Can't say I'm a fan of that "newer" setup. You're very welcome for the video and I'm glad it was helpful to you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment that will help others. Thank you.
Thank you, I spent some time cleaning the motor before I start working. Makes the job go much better. I made a video of how I clean the motor on these vans here: th-cam.com/video/aZJ6i-7CO5w/w-d-xo.html Check it out when you have a few minutes. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
What’s crazy is this man spends days cleaning under all his cars so he doesn’t have to get that greasy or dirty working on his cars and another thing by doing this less heat and less corrosion later on this van should be very well worn and really greasy and old looking it’s like looking Uber the van in 2007 not 2020 something
Yes, I am a bit crazy and ocd when it comes to working on clean vehicles. It sounds funny but I hate getting my hands greasy because you can't wash all of it away, you have to wear it off or just have dirty looking looking hands. So, I always do a thorough wash before I start (makes it easier to work on cars too) and I always wear my funny gloves. My hands don't get beat up and they don't look dirty all the time. That's just me though, all my buddies usually look at me like I'm crazy. LOL! Thanks for stopping by!
I really appreciate and enjoy your videos. I’ve done all 4 motor mounts, valve cover gaskets, alternator, spark plugs wires ignition coil, transmission pan gasket and filter, rear calipers brake hoses, rear shocks,abs wheel sensors, pads and rotors myself so far and did have a friend help with the starter and two of the mounts since being a homeschool mom of two sometimes things get hectic. lol
Watching your videos getting ready for another round of work. Plan on doing sway bark bushings and links, struts, control arms, cv axles tie rods along with new brake hoses, abs wheel sensors, calipers rotors and pads. My hope is to get another 100k miles out of my 199k 2006 town and country 3.8L
Please keep these videos coming. It’s been a godsend for the diy’r like myself. ❤
22:20 using a hole punch to punch into the oil filter is a lifesaver on not having to clean your hands of oil ❤
Great tip Bobby!
I'm definitely using this tip next time. It's a mess taking out that filter. Thank you
J. Hughes As a retired Army mechanic I was simply impressed with the professionalism of your video production! Clear and to-the-point instructions! You don't waste my time. Thank you for the time and effort that you put into these videos! Especially enjoyed the "how to" on performing an interior detailing project.
Well I really appreciate the great compliment Jeffrey. It makes my day to receive such a nice comment. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback and thank you for your service.
Same!! Clean garage too!
Thanks for the Video. It helped me to get the job done on my vehicle.
Fel Pro is the best!! Outstanding video! I'm about to do this job tomorrow. And the underneath of that van is CLEAN! And nice job on the extra safety! I have the same ramps, very good ramps, and youre wearing a Ford hat 👍👍
Very professional video! You are giving not just the tool specs, angles, etc., but also tips for cleaning and ... more. I use the same blue gloves, simple and best. For perfection, make a video on how to not bust your skin and have a scar for weeks!
@George Cazacu - Thank you very much for the compliment! I love my gloves, LOL. It's funny, I'm always doing dirty projects but I hate getting my hands filthy dirty. Especially grease and oil because sometimes no matter how much you wash afterwards it doesn't all come out. I keep your video suggestion in mind for the future too although I have quite a few scars from over the years so I'm not sure how good my advice would be on that one! :)
I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you!
@@javosgarageI rebuilt one motor (honing cylinders, etc.), mounted 3 transmissions, replaced clutch on manual transmission 4 times. Your video on such a simple job (no derogatory intended) is just VERY WELL DONE. Those gloves are great, just know how to use them!
I agree. Your videos and tutorials are excellent.
You are so right. I had a tour of the Fel-Pro plant many years ago. It was state of the art, to say the least.
@hatfez - I bet that tour was really interesting and fun. I would love to do that sometime. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Super excellent video. No superflous info. No time wasting. Helped me w/ a broken off dipstick I had to drill out of the block.
Also; safety stuff is very thorough. .... Very caring / helpful to those w/ less experience who haven't been under a car.
By the way; I'm an ametuer on cars, but have made guitars for 30+ years. I know my stuff, and maybe one day I'll make a helpful video as good as yours.
Thanks
Most youtuber mechanics could take a lesson from you on how to do a repair video. Very clear and stable filming and explained well. This is by far the best video I found on this repair. Others had extra unneeded steps that you clearly showed were not necessary.
I did this job after watching and a month later all is well. I didn't use the included clips - just laid the gasket on the pan and put 2 bolts through the long sides (one per side) set in place and started the 2 bolts to hold it, and all the other bolts went in easy. Thanks for a great & helpful video.
From someone doing this by themselves for the first time, thank you for the detail, you are a godsend for me right now.
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan and have started doing my own maintenance over the recent years (i.e., spark plugs, struts, brakes, headlights, etc.). I started noticing my oil pan looking "wet" around the edges and figured I needed a new gasket. So glad I found your video; it's EXACTLY what I was looking for! New subscriber. Thank you!
That is awesome! Thanks for the sub too!
Their are no word to explain the top notch excellent job you done making this video sir
Thank you very much for the great compliment!
I like the xtra safety precautions 👍
Best explanations ever! Love the safety considerations at the start of the video. Great production and sound quality, too. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome instructions, precise and to the point, very clear to follow no doubt. Thank you very much 👍💯
You're very welcome and thank you for the compliments!
I have to admit, I laughed my A$$ off when the oil plug popped off! 🤣🤣🤣
What about the oil pickup tube o-ring that’s in the pan gasket kit?
Very well done! Thorough and informative. Thanks!
Awesome video! Best I could find on TH-cam. Very well filmed and explained. And it actually covered the Town & Country and not the Dodge Caravan, even though they're basically the same thing. I am simply amazed at how clean the underside of your vehicle was when you shot this video! If only.... LOL! You have a new subscriber!
Gozmo FlysLow - Thank you! Believe it or not, it's not really difficult to clean the undercarriage so that it looks like this. For me, I will pull the car up on ramps and then pressure wash the area. I think you've given me an idea for another video! This particular pan was leaking pretty bad and it was a real mess under here and that just drives me crazy so the first step of a repair for me is to clean the work space. I use this inexpensive pivoting nozzle on my pressure washer that allows me to get in at funny angles to get the job done:
amzn.to/2Ozq2dP - I really like this attachment because you can also get into the wheel wells too. Many uses!
Thank you so much for taking the time to comment and leave me some feedback, much appreciated! Funny enough, I see you're into flying - my brother works for Pilatus. He helped instill the cleanliness and attention to detail in my work ethic.
Really helpful! I watched this even though I dont have this car because its helpful for any oil pan gasket replacement! Thank you great video!
Very well explained with great angles. Thanks for including the links to the materials too!
@Glen Hurley - Thank you for the compliment! Funny enough, I'm finishing up another one of these jobs today. You'll be happy with the Fel-Pro gasket, I've never had an issue with them. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to leave me some feedback, I really appreciate it! Let me know if I can help with any questions.
Merci pour ces explications claires et faciles à suivre. And I didn't find to hard to understand in english. Thank you so much!
Wow, c'est mon premier commentaire en français! Je suis heureux d'apprendre que vous avez trouvé ma vidéo utile. Merci de vous être arrêté et d'avoir pris un moment pour me laisser un commentaire. Je m'excuse pour la réponse tardive, je suis loin de YT depuis un petit moment.
I just did that job on wife’s van yesterday I also agree forgo the “snap ups” unless you have a vehicle where you can put the pan straight up without having to angle the pan in different directions to get it in place
@K Dub - Agreed. I just find them to actually cause issues as opposed to solve any issues. This job can easily be completed without them. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Great video, good angles, good pacing
I just bought one of these 2006 SXT Grand Caravan loaded with options. Some one stole the cat. So they sold it for $800.00... It has 101k miles..Clean as they come. I fixed them automatic side doors. As the wire was broke on one side. The other side some of them cat links were missing. So I fixed that. They both work now. I'm not even a Dodge person. But I know all the issues people have with them ECM coil drivers going south..And the wiring harness under the intake likes to get cooked. So I will be doing all these repairs. As I loathe oil leaks...
Thank you Javo! Great video👍🏼
Excellent comments
Especially the ones to worn you about what can be ahead of you
It was a pleasure and a learning process
Greatfull
Congratulations
Warn
@thingstoknow - Thank you very much for the compliments! It always puts a big smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone with their project. I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - thank you!
@thingstoknow - I hate when I type a comment only to notice a typo right after it posts!! LOL
This is cool. Happened to find your site via TH-cam's "you might like" search feature. I have a '06 with the 3.8 that needs some loving and your videos are spot on for what I need to accomplish. Now I need to binge watch all of your videos to see what else I can learn... :-)
@jcherokee - Thank you very much for the compliment! I apologize for the delay, I've spent the last few days working with the wife and kids to set things up for school here at home. What a project! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment, thank you.
Nice video, thanks for sharing.
@Aaron Mabray - Thank you very much for the compliment! I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment, thank you.
Very good job explaining , Thank you.
@Patrick Mahaffey - Thank you for the compliment and you're very welcome! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Well done ! Very clear. Thanks.
A+ video. I have a 2008 town and country 3.8. New subscriber. Thanks for the excellent presentation.
@dm - Thank you very much for the compliment! Your 2008 will be different however, you have a two piece pan that has an upper and a lower. I plan to make that video the next time I get that generation van. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Thanks for this video! This helps me think I can get it done and not spend the $400 I was quoted for this job! And LOVE the HF tools, they're a fav in my garage.
@Kenneth Turner - You're very welcome! This isn't a tough job IMHO, if you have some basic mechanical skills it should be no problem. I have a wide variety of tools in my box - HF, SnapOn, Matco, Husky, Kobalt, OTC, Lisle, etc. I'm a big believer in the best tool for the best price is what works for me. To be honest, that HF long reach swivel head ratchet I used in this video is going to go or I may change the head. I really like having the release button for the sockets and the more I use that ratchet the more I realize how much it's needed. I was disappointed they left that out on the Icon line as well. I also wish the swivel head was indexed because that's been a bit of an issue as well. Just my two pennies if you're thinking of getting one. If those two aren't something you're concerned about they're a great ratchet.
HF tool's?
I have the drain plug tool too. Yeah, it's still makes a mess, but, when changing the oil on a car that just drove up and oil is cooking, it will save you from having to handle or soaked with hot oil.
Great point!
i know i know but i tack on the gasket to the pan first then install. makes for a awesome install. but thanks for your good vid.... A-
Great video man 👏👏👏 thank you!
Great video . well explained step by step to finish the job..
@Daniel Guzman - I hope your job went great! Thank you for taking the time to return and leave me some feedback. Much appreciated!
Good video and info .
Doing mine in a day or two . Thanks for posting .
@Kaa Zee - Thank you and you're welcome! Looks like you have a few projects on your van coming up soon, I hope they go great for you. One tip that someone else asked about - make sure to allow some time for your RTV to dry. If possible, I let mine sit overnight otherwise take a little break and allow it to sit for at least a few hours before adding your oil. Let me know if you have any questions along the way. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment, I appreciate it!
Hello
Great video. When I removed the access panel, and moved it out of the way. There was a little foam that broke off. It looks like it is to prevent debris behind the panel. Do I need to do something? I can figure out what would go back in there.
Good Afternoon My Friend! Are You Able To Do A Video Showing The Jack Points Of A 2003 Dodge Caravan For When Using A Floor Jack With 4 Jack Stands Please?
nice video. Very well explained. Greetings from Peru.
@fernaherm - Thank you very much for the compliments! I think your my first comment from Peru, welcome to Javo's Garage! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Excellent video, thanks! I tried to do this job months ago but when I ran into the bolt located next to that metal cover I stopped. Now I was able to complete the job by following this video. What I realize is that I did not wait for the gasket maker to dry before adding the new oil. Hopefully that was not a big mistake.
Hey there. How did your repair end up working out?
Hi, it has been great. No oil leaks so far.
I realize I did this repair but also the one from the video titled "Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement" (same youtube channel). That is the one that requires to apply the gasket maker. No more oil leaks as of now.
good job
@Rich E Rich - Thank you very much, I appreciate the compliment!
Nice detailed explaination to what you're doing. Good luck on the channel. Subbed.
@Tool In Hand - Thank you very much for stopping by and the compliment! I really appreciate you taking a moment to leave me some feedback.
Thank you for using the a quality filter in the proper dimensions. I’m so tired of seeing these undersized quicky-lube garbage cans on cars…gosh, I wonder why the engine wears out in 100k miles…
Great point! A few dollars saved on an oil filter can cost a LOT of money! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Nice video and very informative. Thank you, that’s how it should be!!
I appreciate that!
Awesome video keep up the great work.
@Florazel Lamar - Thank you very much Florazel! It always puts a big smile on my face to hear a viewer enjoyed one of my videos and hopefully gained some valuable information. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Good job, nice video
@ChudBud10 - Thank you very much, I appreciate the feedback!
Your a cool dude keep up the good work you have my like and I am officially a subscriber! Thank you bro
Thank you for the compliments and subscribing, I really appreciate it!
You left put one essential tool. A 9000lb lift. I got one about 20 years ago and instantly realized that I should have had one 20 years earlier. When you get into a job which requires that you work repeatedly both under and over the car it can take more than half of the work out of it. And the lift also deals with the problem of safety. I have floor jacks, creepers and jack stands left from before the lift. And sometimes use them. but not often. At 76 I'm long past tired of crawling around on the floor.
Man, I would love to have a lift! Maybe someday.
Great video. Very well explained, clear video. Liked and subscribed
@Michael Krieger - Thank you very much for the compliments and subscribing to my channel! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Thanks, you make it so easy.
Tino Arreguin - You're very welcome. It's not a bad job. Thank you very much for taking the time to leave me a comment, much appreciated!
Such a great video!! Right to the point and full of tips. Thank u so much for this. U have a subscriber!!!
Thank you Aileen! Glad to have you join me and I appreciate you subscribing.
@@javosgarage 👍👍👍
I love your videos
This was a great video really helped me out a lot thank you so much.
@Robert Ablalos - Hello Robert! It always puts a big smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone with their project. Super glad to hear it. Thank you very much for the compliment and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - much appreciated!
Excellent video The small little circle round gasket ,where does it go
Hi Shawn. I'm sorry, I don't understand your question. The Fel-Pro oil pan gasket (OS30622R) comes with the main gasket that can only be installed one way, an o-ring for the pickup tube (should you decide to change it), and the plastic hangers to help hold the gasket during the installation of the pan. I hope that answers your question.
Since you have the pan off you should change your oil pump pickup tube, they only cost about 25 bucks, sometimes they are clogged with gunk from the oil
Good advice Michael. I always inspect the screen to make sure there's no obstruction to the oil flow. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment. Thank you.
I always apply gasket to pan first using a drop of super glue here and there. Then you don't have to worry about using those plastic guides.
Great video just finished putting everything back but have a small transmission fluid leak at the bottom of the plate area dud i do something wrong?
Probably not. It may be coming from a transmission seal.
Very good and detailed video. I paused video when you were about to tighten the screws, bcuz I wanted to ask about when you took down the pan, you didn't mention anything about how to deal with the ongoing residual oil dripping after pan is down. I've found in the past that some time must be allowed for the oil drip to stop. You want to have an oil-free mating surface the moment the pan goes up, correct? So, did you wait? This is one part home mechanics need to know.
@J P - My experience has been 90% of the residual oil that drips while your working comes from the pick up tube and the crank shaft area. Having said that, I like to get the vehicle ready to start the job and then let it sit for an hour or so. This accomplishes two things: 1. It allows the motor and oil to cool down and 2. It provides time for the oil to drain down into the pan. You'll see at about 15:55 when I start to put the gasket back in position there isn't oil dripping on the sides where the gasket will seat but there is still a little bit dripping out of the pick up tube. It usually takes me at least 15 minutes to clean the pan really good so it's ready to install and then right before I put everything back together I clean the mating surfaces on the block. I have done at least 20 of these oil pan gaskets and this process has never let me down, I've never had a leak. Knock on wood - LOL! Thank you for the comment sir!
@@javosgarage Awesome, good assurance.
@@MusicMinisterJP7 Here's a tip: RELAX. You could wait until the next coming of Halley's Comet, neither the crankcase of an engine or the lower end of a transmission will entirely stop dripping oil. There is so much oil on the internal surfaces, from the valve gallery down to the crankshaft, that just when you think the oil is all gone, another droplet is forming to come your way. Sure, you want to wipe down the seating surfaces as best as possible. But if you are using a quality gasket and are installing it per manufacturer's recommendations, a drop or two of oil on the seating surfaces is not going to matter at all. And it is very likely to occur in the time you are futzing with the gasket and the pan trying to get it seated and tightened up. So don't sweat it. I've been doing this since 1978, and can attest that this applies both to pans using a gasket and to those that seal entirely using RTV. It is far, far more important to ensure that the pan and block mating surfaces are totally devoid of any old gasket material or gasket adhesive before proceeding than to worry about whether there might be a couple of drops of oil there.
@@StilettoSniper Splendid then Sir.. I tip mi hat tu ya..
Thank you!
@ThroughThe Grace - You're very welcome, thanks for stopping by! I hope my video was helpful to you.
Javo, I tried this video today March 19th, 2020 but had problems getting the 18mm bolt that holds the trans cover, what the beat way to get this bolt lossened without cracking/breaking it off? Otherwise great video.
@Tino Arreguin - Hi Tino, sorry you're having a problem. I have always used a 3/8" 18mm deep socket along with my extended flex head ratchet. Maybe once or twice i needed to go up to a 1/2" breaker bar to get more leverage. Make sure you're not using a 12 point socket so you can get the best grip possible too. Hope that helps you a little. I've never had one of those give me huge problems, they've always come out with a few grunts. I guess in an absolute worst case scenario you could use an impact with a universal joint but I have never had to escalate things to that level. Good luck!
Hi
Thanks for the great video! I just changed my pan gasket on my 2006 town n country.
No leaks! The pan was a bit stubborn getting off so had to use a putty knife and exacto knife to sort of chisel out the old gasket maker material.also gave it several hard whacks with a rubber mallet. Hope this helps someone . So once I did that I got it to drop.
Since u have worked on these models, I have a question. I have a p0406 and p0128 code. This is egr valve malfunction and a thermostat type error. Thing is I have changed these already
Y myself and these codes came back.
Any ideas on how to fix this?
Hi John. Thank you for the compliment on the video, I'm glad it was able to help you. The 0406 90% of the time is the EGR valve IMHO and I understand it may be a new one but my experience has been that the aftermarket EGR valves can have some "reliability issues" so I would start there. If you changed it yourself and you got it from one of the chain part stores you should be able to exchange it for a new one with no hassle. The 0128 is usually the thermostat as well but could also be caused by a bad ECT or "engine coolant temperature" sensor and sometimes even the IAT or "intake air temp" sensor (far more rare though). Now, maybe you're "lucky" enough to get two replacements that went out around the same time or you could be dealing with a wiring issue since these are related to the same harness. There have been many cases where the harness that runs under the intake manifold gets too hot and melts some of the wiring. Take a look in there for possible problems as well as the rest of the harness. Hope that helps you a bit.
Thank you for the great video. 👍 Got a question for ya. Will a bad pcv valve cause engine knock after time?
Thanks for posting a great video on this repair. I will be doing mine soon on a 2007 Caravan. There is another video of this repair where the guy says he has to remove that coolant pipe to lower the pan. So you did not have to remove that coolant pipe to lower the pan?
@Canadian Drifter - I have never had to remove the coolant line to perform this repair and I've done at least twenty of these. You'll see at 10:05 when I remove the pan this is easy to do with that line in place. Just drop the back of the pan (next to transmission) first and then back it out. Removing that coolant line will add at least 30-45 minutes to your job because not only do you have to reinstall it and put all your coolant back in, then you have to bleed the air out of your cooling system. Save yourself some time and leave the coolant line alone, it's a non-issue for this job. You'll thank me for it when your done. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage Thanks for the reply back. I'm glad I saw your video. Saved me doing unnecessary work. Your videos and voice over are excellent. Will be watching your other Caravan repairs too. Cheers from Canada!
@Canadian Drifter - Thank you for the compliment! I have been working on improving the audio quality of my content. It's nice to see someone notices! Good luck on your repair. It's not a bad job, you'll do just fine.
Hi Javo, just finished doing this repair in a parking lot and everything worked out. No leaks! So glad I watched your video. Hey, I have a question. I replaced the parking brake cable from pedal assembly to equalizer. How do you pull the new cable and/or equalizer bracket tight enough together to make it? I will try to back off both rear shoe adjuster dials for a bit of slack but do you use a special clamp? And/or is there a trick to bring cables together to join front and back at equalizer? Thanks.
@Canadian Drifter - I'm so sorry for the delayed response! For some reason YT is not giving me notifications when someone comes back and responds to a "prior" comment. I just happened to be scrolling through some things tonight and saw this thankfully! Glad to hear your repair went well and you have no leaks - well done!
In regards to that brake cable, I've only had to deal with that once or twice and if I remember correctly I ended up using a squeeze type bar clamp to hook on the equalizer bar and the other end to the frame (I have a few that vary between 12" and 36") to be able to pull it back, hold it there, and then slide the cable back into position. Bar clamps can be used for more than woodworking, who knew? Sometimes desperation is the catalyst of invention! I remember that project gave me some fits too.
Stellar tutorial, but I do have one problem -- I managed to remove and replace the oil gasket on my 2001 Dodge Caravan today, but I had some trouble getting the sliding plate to come down. When it did, the rubber shelving (not sure how else to describe it) flaked off the metal. Now, having finished and secured everything back on (very satisfying feeling, btw), I'm merely unable to get the plate to slide back in. The upper-left corner, the side that pivots, is clanking against something back there no matter how I wiggle it back.
@James Murrell - It’s common for that foam strip to be brittle so it breaks apart and falls off. It’s designed to help keep debris from getting into the housing. When I checked with my local dealerships and part stores there was no replacement offered. When that happens I remove the plate entirely, clean it real good making sure all residue is removed and then place a piece of weather stripping along that line.
In regards to getting that plate back up two things... 1. Make sure that large 18mm bolt is loose to help be able to move your inspection plate. 2. On some models, there is a tab on the back side that bends into the housing. Trying pulling the inspection plate away from the housing a little bit and then slide it up. Let me know if this solves your problem.
@@javosgarage The weather stripping seems to fit nicely -- thanks for the tip. I did indeed have to hammer the tab on the end of the plate into a flat surface because it simply wasn't going back in. Now it looks more like the one in your video.
@@deusvulture5183 I'm glad you were able to get your job completed. Now no leaks! Thanks for the feedback.
@@javosgarage Yup! No leaks. I put clean cardboard under the vehicle to make sure and there's nothing on it after three days and multiple trips. :)
That is awesome. I really like hearing my video has been able to help someone get their job done and save some cash! Congrats on a job well done, nothing beats the satisfaction of completing a job like this yourself.
Parts cheap for the pan I gotta do mine on my wife and I van I'm just gonna replace the pan looks bad probably has leaks idk theres alot oil around the pan but it doesnt leak out on the ground only on the pan
@RobGamer - Hi Rob, its not too expensive. The parts should run you around $75 with the gasket, sealant, cleaner, oil and filter. The labor part isn't bad, everything is pretty easy to get your hands on. What usually happens is that it starts to seep oil around the edges of your pan gasket and it builds up on the the pan. When it gets bad enough to drip is when the real mess starts because it not only drips on the ground but it also blows down the underside of your van when your going down the road. Let me know if you need any advice along the way, I'm happy to help. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage thanx man on Ebay it was like $40 for the pan and gasket my car is a 2008 chrysler town and country figured it was pretty close to the same to change never done it
@RobGamer I have not done a pan gasket on the 08+ models but I do believe it's a two piece pan design with an upper and lower to deal with so it is different. I think the upper uses an RTV sealant while the lower is a gasket. I wish I could be of more help to you, I just haven't done this procedure on one of those. I'll do what I can to help you if you have any questions though. I do have a Haynes manual that covers those years.
Although I have yet to attempt to make this change myself, I found the video very informative thank you. However, I have an '08 town and country. It looks like the same oil pan and gasket. Do you know if the set up is the same?
@Shandon ehredt - I apologize for my late response. Directly, I have not done a pan gasket on the '08 and newer models. Having said that I believe they are similar but I do know for sure there are certainly differences. If I recall correctly the '08+ models have a two piece pan design (an upper and a lower). Without a doubt it will have different steps than what this procedure contains. I'm sorry I'm not able to provide you further information. I do have a Haynes manual for that series of vans so I will be happy to look up any information you may need if you would like, just let me know. Thank you for stopping by and giving me a little grace on my late response. Have a great day!
@@javosgarage not a problem thank you for getting back you me. I just can't find the info of an 08. I'll look further thank you
@Shandon ehredt - I looked around a bit for you and I see what you mean. I guess the next time I get that generation of van I'll remember to do a oil pan gasket video, there is certainly a need for one. I did find a video a guy did changing the pan gasket on his '09 Jeep that also has the 3.8L motor. Naturally, there are some differences but the basics of the motor pan gasket itself should be the same. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/h2ikeXHgVNU/w-d-xo.html
Hopefully that will help give you some info and pointers for your application. Wish I could help you more. Like I said, don't hesitate to ask any questions and I'll see what info my Haynes manual could provide to help you as well.
what do you call the panel that you loosen to access the 2 hidden bolts? The foam on mine broke off when moving it so I want to replace it, but I cannot find that part online. I'm guessing I'm calling it a wrong name...
Unfortunately you won't find that access plate anywhere online (I've tried in the past). I have had the foam break off before and my solution was to use a piece of foam weatherstripping that I found at my local hardware store. Fixed my problem! I hope that helps you. I apologize for the delayed response. Thanks for stopping by!
How come you didn't do the pickup tube o ring
@Mike Selsvik - Hi Mike. I have never had any issue whatsoever with the seals on the pickup tubes so I leave it. You can certainly change it while you're in there if you'd like, I just found it to be an unnecessary repair. Thanks for stopping by!
Great video, felling very confident about doing this now. Did you torque the inspection plate bolts at 105 pounds as well?
@John Zorland - My Haynes manual does not provide a torque specification for those bolts. For the smaller 10mm bolts I always tighten to snug plus a quarter turn. The larger 18mm bolt is the same, sometimes it takes a little more than a quarter turn as I want to make sure that brace is secure. Just to be clear though, the pan bolts are 105 INCH pounds, not foot pounds. Big difference there, LOL! Thanks for stopping by, let me know if I can answer anything else for you. You got this!
انت رجل استاذ للي كثير ابحث عن حل هذه المشكلة
I use ramps. Not one speck of corrosion. Must be nice living down south.
It sure helps to not have to deal with rust issues. I see some cars from back east or up north and it's amazing what happens to them in just a short period of time. Thanks for stopping by!
Hey Javo. Have you used a full synthetic in the 3.8 or do you stick with a blend? Ever used the Walmart Super-Tech full synthetic? I've got a 2006 Caravan with 55K that I've used conventional in and I'm thinking about switching to a synthetic.
@Simon Suso - Hi Simon. I generally am in the camp of using a synthetic blend as opposed to a full synthetic for "older" (more than 10 years) vehicles or those with higher miles although 55k is lower miles in your van (a rare find in these vans). I know many would disagree but my personal experience leads me to believe it can sometimes lead to leaks that weren't there before. I just so happen to like Castrol High Mileage and it has done very well in my experience. I have not used any Walmart oil so I'm sorry but I can't offer an opinion on something I have no experience with. I hope that answers your question.
I've run Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic in my 2004 Grand Caravan 3.3 since it was new. Had the valve covers off last summer, at 123k miles the valve gallery is impeccably clean, no carbonized oil or black oil goop of any kind. The vehicle has not experienced any "excessive" oil leaks in my opinion (remember it is a Chrysler product, all of which leak oil at some point). I repalced the valve covers gaskets at 110K with new Felpro gaskets, because the OE gaskets had totally hardened and started to leak (again, typical Chrysler).
Do you think you could do valve cover gaskets?
@Matthew Kinney - You bet I can! Next time I pick up one of these vans (and I’m looking for my next one right now) I will make that video. Thanks for stopping by!
When installing my new oil pan, I over tightened one of the bolts and it broke off at the head, with the rest of the bolt stuck inside of the hole. The rest of the bolts are nice and tight. I took it for a drive and its not leaking.
Do i need to drill out that broken bolt and replace it, or should I just leave it alone if its not leaking?
It will likely leak at some point. You can address it now, or address it later. It's your call.
Great video. One thing though. The tool did not made a liar out of you, the tool was just camera shy. 😝
@Ramiro Membreno - Whatever it was it was certainly a fail! Oh well, that's how jobs go. It seems more often than not something happens and you're thinking "What?!?! You've got to be kidding me!" I am trying to get the drain plug tool to be more comfortable in front of the camera though. LOL
Hey, thanks for stopping by and putting a smile on my face today - much appreciated!
I'm going behind someone who has managed to leave the pan plug almost rounded off. Looks like they used vise grips. I used a small pipe wrench and vise grips hoping to get it out. It's getting to the point I'm almost to a nub. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
YIf it is long enough, you may be able to get it off with a stud puller socket, which is made for removing broken studs. An impact wrench might help here as well with the stud puller socket. You also might want to try applying heat to the plug before attempting to loosen and remove it again. If all else fails, you could follow this video and replace your pan, pan gasket and drain plug with new ones.
@@StilettoSniper
Thanks. I bought a set of stud puller sockets and the 13mm worked. Definitely a good investment for anyone working on an old vehicle or any corroded equipment. Appreciate the recommendation.
@@baron7024 Excellent, thank for letting me know. Really glad I was able to help you resolve this issue!
How do you replace the o-ring on the old tube pickup
Hi Shawn. It's quite simple, there is one fastener located at the base of the pickup tube. Simply remove the fastener and pull down on the tube to expose the o-ring. Hope that helps. Thanks for stopping by!
I need the oil pan too, good to buy at an auto parts store? What do you recommend?
@david griffiths - I just did a quick search for you... You can pick one up at Advance (my local store had one in stock) for $70, however you can easily find a 20% coupon for them which puts you at about $55. I have also come across quite a few 25% coupons for Advance lately too. Only a few listed on Amazon, the cheapest was $32.50 with a May 15th delivery. I also looked up a price for the local salvage yard and it was $25 with a $2 core fee, so $27. eBay, they're running between $30-$120.
Something of this nature I prefer to buy new. I can be sure there's no dents, warps or other possible damage that just means more expense and labor. For the small price difference it's worth it in my opinion. I would be very cautious of the really cheap pans, but that's just me. I have never had to actually replace the pan itself but if I did I would be heading over to my local store to pick one up so if I have any issues I don't have to let the vehicle sit while I ship the part back to get a replacement. Hope this helps you. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage I agree, I thought new would be the way to go. I plan to keep this as long as I can. My 2007 Caravan almost hit 300,000 but a guy hit it. I appreciate your advice!!
@david griffiths - No problem, glad to help.
Excellent. Just one comment. Be careful tightening the screws. They are very sensitive, and can be tripped easily.
@Zylix Zylix - GREAT advice. Initially, I always hand tighten the bolts until snug. The few extra minutes is more than worth the possible hassle and extra time needed to correct a cross thread. Using a torque wrench to apply the proper amount of force is also important, you wouldn't want to strip the threads. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave some valuable feedback, I really appreciate it!
Strange because my owners manual for my wifes 02 grand caravan calls for 5QT of 5W30 unless you are in a hot climate.
@f1nals1ght yt - Hello, it's possible that was updated in the later years. I just grabbed an '06 Owner's Manual to verify; it states 5W-30 for the 2.4 Liter engines and 5W-20 for the 3.3/3.8 Liter engines. Also, when you go buy your oil and filter from the parts store ask them what they show as the recommended oil. I know my local Advance Auto store usually has the updated info in their system for all makes and models. Hope that helps you a bit. Thanks for stopping by!
@WeAreWatching Yu - Certainly something to think about. For me, I go with the factory recommendations on grade type but I do switch to the "High Mileage" when I hit the 75k mark. Actually, I was using the Castrol High Mileage in this particular application. I own a Ford Superduty diesel and boy I've read some looong discussions on what type and weight of oil to use, far more opinions than options - LOL. Ultimately, go with what you believe to be the best solution for you. Thanks for stopping by and leaving some useful info to help others - much appreciated!
Whether or not to use a "high mileage" version of a motor oil is entirely up to the vehicle owner. However, I would stick with an oil viscosity recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. I would NOT, for example, use 10W-30 in an older vehicle if only 0W-20 or 5W-30 is recommended, no matter how many miles it has.
GREAT advice right here! Totally agree.
It's working just With silicón With out gaskets?
You will definitely need a gasket for this. The Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker is for where multiple surfaces come together and there may be a gap not filled by the gasket. Hope that answers your question. Sorry for the delay!
Я себе 5w20 тоже лью Вояджер 3.3 2006 год , пробег 250 000км.
3.3 - хороший двигатель. Приятно видеть, что вы получили 250 000 км от вашего. Я бы сказал, придерживайтесь того, что работает для вас, это здорово! Спасибо, что заглянули и нашли минутку, чтобы оставить мне комментарий.
Thats exactly why im here lol
Did you remove both front wheels?
@david griffiths - I did remove both front wheels. However, I only removed those because I needed to do a brake inspection and the van was already up so I took them off to give me more room to video the procedure. You do NOT have to remove the wheels to change the oil pan gasket. I've changed out the pan gaskets before where I just pulled the van up on my ramps. I have learned the more room you can safely give yourself under there the easier the job will be to complete. Hope that helps you, thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarageThanks, Great video gave me courage to do the job. As soon as we have a dry weekend!
@david griffiths - I hear that. Last week was cold and snowy, today is sun but still pretty chilly. I'm looking forward to this weekend when we're supposed to see some 70's finally! I have many car projects backed up right now so it will be a busy weekend. Let me know if you have any questions along the way, I'll be glad to help.
Where is removal of engine splash shield?
@Arthur W Day - Hello Arthur, I'm not sure I understand your question but let's see if I can help you out here. If you mean the splash shield located in the front, passenger wheel well that covers the front of the motor then that does not need to be removed for this job. If by chance your talking about the access plate at the rear of the oil pan by the transmission the removal procedure is at the 7:25 mark. I hope this answers your question, if I misunderstood please give me a little more info as to the location of the shield your asking about and I'll be glad to help any way I can. Thanks for stopping by!
Real quick after the commercial
Every time I see a oil gasket video they remove the bracket on the side you don't?
@Mike Selsvik - Hi Mike. No I don't. As you can see from the video I am easily able to complete the repair with the bracket in place. You may have seen in some of my other videos, I certainly have no problem taking additional steps if I believe it will make my job go easier or allow me to do a better job. In this case, I just don't think there's a benefit to removing the bracket. Really it comes down to personal preference. Hopefully this covers your question. Thanks for stopping by again!
@@javosgarage thanks I really appreciate it and also you mentioned that you were doing a shift selinod but I can't find the video
I forgot to ask how you got the torque wrench on the bolt buy the bracket
@Mike Selsvik - I haven't worked on producing that video yet, I'm not efficient at editing so it takes me a long time to make my videos, I spent about 6 hours on the two videos in this series. Sorry, but it should come out sometime in future. I actually have about 5 more videos on these vans, I just haven't had the time to work on them. I'm in the process of editing some tool review videos and when they're done I'll get back to repair videos.
@Mike Selsvik - I am able to get to that bolt by using a 1/4" 10mm socket with a 6" extension. Works great for me.
Why not use the car ramps as ...car ramps?
You have Will Forte's voice
@Jason S - That is too funny! (No pun intended since he's a comedian) To be honest I had to do a search real quick because I didn't recognize the name but when I listened to him speak in an interview I had to laugh because I definitely see what you're saying. Thanks for putting a smile on my face. Have a great day!
Dont you have let the RTV DRY?
Daniel Guzman - Yes sir. Most places will wait 1-2 hours, some even less. Naturally, this video is edited down for time constraints. For me, I always let it sit overnight before adding oil and I've never had one leak. Hope that helps you, thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage it will help me alot. Im gonna let it sit overnight. Thank you
FOR FUTURE DIY PEOPLE! I have a 2010 town and country with a 16 bolt oil pan. THERE IS NO GASKET! You will need to use rtv gasket maker.
Thank you for the video. I was able to do this with your instructions.
Good info. Can't say I'm a fan of that "newer" setup. You're very welcome for the video and I'm glad it was helpful to you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment that will help others. Thank you.
But everything look like new
Thank you, I spent some time cleaning the motor before I start working. Makes the job go much better. I made a video of how I clean the motor on these vans here: th-cam.com/video/aZJ6i-7CO5w/w-d-xo.html
Check it out when you have a few minutes. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
What’s crazy is this man spends days cleaning under all his cars so he doesn’t have to get that greasy or dirty working on his cars and another thing by doing this less heat and less corrosion later on this van should be very well worn and really greasy and old looking it’s like looking Uber the van in 2007 not 2020 something
Yes, I am a bit crazy and ocd when it comes to working on clean vehicles. It sounds funny but I hate getting my hands greasy because you can't wash all of it away, you have to wear it off or just have dirty looking looking hands. So, I always do a thorough wash before I start (makes it easier to work on cars too) and I always wear my funny gloves. My hands don't get beat up and they don't look dirty all the time. That's just me though, all my buddies usually look at me like I'm crazy. LOL! Thanks for stopping by!