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This was a hell of a video. USA Fat Boy is new, improved, and back in action. That super tight gap is going to help with heat transfer and motor force. Thank you for including the part that we would complain about if not included
Back in the late 90s when I was in high school. I had all mtx gear. MTX blue thunders were my favorite. My first real amp I had back in 2000 was an MTX amp 2 channel I paid $599 for. The first amp that pushed some real power. 500x2 at 2 ohms. Now you can buy a 2000 watt Skar mono block stable at 1 ohm for a few hundred only. Big changes. Car Audio was big$ back in the day.
Joe I grew up in the era. Also an the blue thunders we're mine favorites also. An your right a decent amp cost like 500 bucks . An this is the reason I'm still into car audio today can purchase awesome stuff for an affordable price
Awesome video!! I actually had 1 of the fatboy subs a few years after i got into car audio,i loved it,but then sold it a few years later. Gotta love that old school goodness.
Awsome, ending up with a super tight gap has been one of the issues I've thought about if I rebuild any of my old 90's subs. I priced out the cost to rebuild a pair of 12" Orion XTR Series 1's with RF replacement cones and what I think would work for a 2" coil. In many ways it doesn't seem worth the money unless you can improve the overall quality of the subwoofer. Great video.
BAAAAAAAD AAAAAAASS!👌 I wish I had my first set of subs from back about 1994 or so Rockford Fosgate series 1 -15's 10-100watts max!!!😄 man I beat on those for a looooong time. Then someone needed them more then I did and took em. I paid 104.00 bucks a peice and I had to detassle corn for 3 weeks to have enough bread to buy em
Man I really wanted a pair of FatBoy's way back when, I had got a pair of Drive Series 15's back in like 1999. I still have them, but deemed them not worth buying new soft parts for years ago, that and the baskets / magnets are not identical on the pair I have unfortunately. E6000 has worked well for me for many speakers / subs. I glued a new dust cap on a Kove Armageddon 15" back in like 2012-2013 and it still has a death grip on that dustcap. I tried to get it off a few months back as I wanted to save the cap for re-use, and it is not coming off without a fight.
@@EMFAudio "always" nope .. it's a good guideline or a rule of thumb, but I'd never have considered crossing the leads under the dustcap with all things considered just to keep that as a guideline.. 😉
Yes, always. Look at EVERY speaker, pos and neg are always in the same spot. That still wouldn't change how the terminals are labelled, which would have been backwards. I'm a fan of doing things the right way, not the quick or easiest way.
I have a set of Lanzar LP15's that need the same treatment. Do you guys offer this as a service? One of them has a loose coil but would love to replace both with an updated fiber reinforced cone.
I've contacted Memphis, they seem unwilling to try. I haven't blown them yet but I've been babying them! I want to put more power to them to see what they can do but before I do that I want to be sure that I can get them fixed. Or possibly upgraded
They don't deal with the same factory that made those anymore, so original parts aren't available. It wouldn't be particularly inexpensive for me to do it.
I still have the 4 California 12inch just like the b-52, in those day it writing 1200watt. After many video I have watch about speaker in TH-cam, I think it made around 100watt. They really cheat us so bad, but in those day those sup really now how kick. I think you know what kind a speaker.
Love crunch!! Question would heat shrink on the leads have worked or were you worried they might have rubbed through? How ever it is or isnt nice to see new life breathes into the v drive subs there the ones that dont ever get any love only the first series. Shame cause there every bit as good. Great video
Do you mean under the cap? They need to be secured anyway because vibration will fatigue it. But, I don't have heat shrink that small either. It's very small wire.
@EMF Audio you didn't have to cross the leads from the voice coil you could have just switched the push terminals on the outside so you didn't have to worry about them touching so much, just a friendly tip
I could have, but then negative would be on the left and positive would be on the right and that's the opposite of industry standard, it would also be backwards of how it's labeled. I'd rather do it the right way than the easy way.
Love the show was just wondering why There is another square mounting space for second lot of terminals why did you not fit both terminals And then take advantage of the double voice coil and double spider ???
The spider doesn't change for being dual voice coil, but the idea was to keep this as close to the original is possible. That's why the dustcap was re-used.
Hey do you remember the Virtual technologies subwoofer and their giant vented box's??? Do you know where I can get a dustcap with their design???? I wanna slap it on a Skar VFX
Aren’t tight gaps somewhat troublesome? For example the Image Dynamics ID Max 12 has a supposedly very tight coil gap and those subs have problems with rubbing at higher power levels. Isn’t this a potential problem?
Yes, it can be a problem. This sub doesn't have a lot of throw so it's not that big of a deal. Higher throw subs generally have to have a bigger gap to prevent rubbing.
EMF Audio yeah I know it wouldn't be a good sub either way. it would have just been fun I guess. but if u can do a sub upgrade and show difference in power handling of any would be super
Thank you for making this video pretty informative I am trying to re-con my infinity kappa 120.3se and can’t find none of the parts it has a 2 inch voice coil in the con plus does Is metal this is about a 20 year old speaker I would like to see if I can get it running and probably make it door voice coil Could you please help me out thank you
@@EMFAudio Right now I don’t care long as it brings life back to that speaker or I should say the motor and probably go back and put it single coil but I would love to make it door cool is originally it was 1200 W max 300 W RMS
How can I find a dual 2ohm voice coil to fit the RFD 2212 hx2 Rockford fosgate. It's originally dual 4 ohm but I don't have a 2 ohm stable model amplifier but if I want to use one single subwoofer to make it 4 ohm I would need a 2 ohm dual voice coil who can you buy those parts from
OK I have a American bass 18'' HD18d1 dual 1 ohm impedance I believe it's a 4 inch voice coil as well just the motor and basket I don't have any of the soft parts or connectors believe it or not I got it from the scrap guy what would you suggest on rebuild
so why didn't you make it into a dual voice coil woofer? I'm guessing you could of but just wanted to keep it original? thanks and I love your work I hopefully be doing this to my old MA audio 10inch woofer
Could you do me a huge favor sir could I please send you a couple of pictures to an email for you to take a look at and tell me where I could get a recoil kit for my woofer It would be greatly appreciated
@@justforlaughs8988 Pictures wouldn't be enough for me to tell you. You can try fixmyspeaker.com with measurements you take from what you have and make your best judgement.
OK where do you get your parts from? my sub is the older version of the ma audio ma100xe it's a dual 4ohm 300watts rms with the 600w stamped on the back of the magnet I believe it's a 2.5inch voice coil but would need to measure it before I by parts however I have never rebuilt a sub but I'm very good with my hands I'm a commercial electrician by trade and I've rebuilt motors and Transmissions so I have steady hands and I can pay attention and I have all the tools I just need to get supplies in material but do not know where are the best selection of a quail or parts would be and that's what I was hoping you would recommend a site to order from
Do you sell parts for people to do this at home? I have 2 jl audio w4-4 I want to rebuild with newer parts so it can have the most excursion and handle a little bit more power
I'm curious to why if you are using a DVC coil then why not convert the sub into a DVC sub. I'm figuring that adding another set of terminals would be easy enough.
Im suprised u didnt use the oposing tab to make it a dvc instead of wireing soldering the dvc coil together. What was the final value? Is it a 2ohm or 8ohm now?
If it were me, just an idea, because I do these kind of repairs as well from time to time, I would have ran the positive under the cone, and through the cone, and the negative above the cone, or vise verse. So the possibility of voltage heating the voice coil wire doesn't melt the glue, and cross under vibration, or pressure.
It can't generate enough heat to melt the glue. The same process is used on out 6,500 watt sub without issue. Also because it's secured with the glue, it can't vibrate. All the connections and leads are encased in glue, it's a solid block basically.
EMF Audio I figured that. That’s why I said, just and idea. For me it’s just the idea of crossing coil wires, just because humans now and days look for a reason to get something for free or get over. And that would be a go to. You and I know it’s not a problem, but in the eyes of those trying to get over, that’s a go to. Sucks we as techs have to think like that at times, but things like that is a cover your a$$ thing.
I have an old kicker that has a whole in the surround so it could probably use a patch job or just a full on recone. I'm pretty sure it is about 20 years old as well and I was wondering if you know any collectors who would be interested in this sub.
on reconing tgesub as you did, doesnt it changes the parameters of the sub eith that coil being not the original and the higher round spider? so this would not be the same as the original, although it may out perform it.
If it's not identical it will change the parameters. The coil will be the biggest change because of the electrical side of things, the cone and surround can change a little mechanical but if the mass is different (even more than just the coil) it will also have an effect.
On the old website I had an article about motor gauss, I thought I did a video on it but I must have included it in a video not an entire video on it. Gauss IS NOT a measure of sub performance, only motor potential. I'd have to measure one again, I don't remember the figure, but I can tell you that a Sundown Zv3 and a 6.5" door speaker from a 1994 Chevy Astro have a similar gauss number. That just makes the point of why you can't go off that number for any reason.
BL has more to do with the amount of wire in the gap than how tight the gap is. The coil ID was extremely tight but the coil OD was pretty normal. If the coil OD was a larger gap from the top plate but the coil ID was extremely tight, it would have less BL.
The subs in my car are over 20 yo with no problems, been in .many different cars, same subs. Converting to a single voice coil, if the individual coils are 4 ohm, you wanted a 8 ohm speaker, not a 2 ohm. You could have specified what the coils are and reminded viewers for system matching.
Would of not be easier to just turn the terminal around then cross over the leads. If only parts where as cheap in the UK would make a killing on making hybrid budget subs and doing JL subs as plenty cooked ones around
I have some kicker compvr 15s 07s that i need reconed my internet search doesn't show me anything that i could use can anybody give me suggestions on what i should order as soft parts
Those are throw-away subs, that's why you won't find any info. It's a 13 year old sub you could buy for $75, the cost of reconing it is more than buying a new one.
@@EMFAudio it's a shame because they sell them for like $250 but yeah i can buy a sub that outperforms them for $100 thank you for your reply.... My kids will be happy to see them leave the space they've been in for 2 years haha
@@EMFAudio I mean you remove the connection (the goldplated connection on the outside) and turn it 180 degree and mount it back again. Then you can connect the + and - to + and - on the outside connetion without crossing the wires under the dustcap. Hope you understand what i mean.
I think I understand what you mean, it just doesn't work that way. The pos and neg are just posts I solder onto. If you don't swap the wires it doesn't change anything but the label.
@@EMFAudio At 11,50 you say posetive on voicecoil is on right side and the connection/teminal/tensillead posetive is on the left side. So you have to cross them. I guess we can agree on that. :) If we dont cross the wires - and + will be wrong on the terminal/outside connection (dont know the english word for it) , but if you turn the terminal/outside connection 180 degrees the markings on the terminal/outside conectins will be correct. And you dont have to cross the wires. When the terminal is turned the + connection/tensillead will also be on the right side at the voicecoil.
@@Skoog. The markings are only on 1 side, and they're by color. Industry standard is positive on left, negative on right so I do it the right way. You would never know the difference if I didn't do a video on it.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
That motor strength is absolutely unreal I'm so glad u mentioned that .
Way awesome 👍!! Nothing like a good re-made USA sub. Thanks cool .
This was a hell of a video. USA Fat Boy is new, improved, and back in action. That super tight gap is going to help with heat transfer and motor force.
Thank you for including the part that we would complain about if not included
Back in the late 90s when I was in high school. I had all mtx gear. MTX blue thunders were my favorite. My first real amp I had back in 2000 was an MTX amp 2 channel I paid $599 for. The first amp that pushed some real power. 500x2 at 2 ohms. Now you can buy a 2000 watt Skar mono block stable at 1 ohm for a few hundred only. Big changes. Car Audio was big$ back in the day.
Joe I grew up in the era. Also an the blue thunders we're mine favorites also. An your right a decent amp cost like 500 bucks . An this is the reason I'm still into car audio today can purchase awesome stuff for an affordable price
&& Now the moment you'd complain about if I didn't include it in the video. Love watching!! Keep up the great work.
Awesome video!! I actually had 1 of the fatboy subs a few years after i got into car audio,i loved it,but then sold it a few years later. Gotta love that old school goodness.
Im just gonna sit here and wait till tuesday sean... 😎
That’s awesome looks new again
That's awesome! Love watching you do cool car audio stuff.
Hey did u ever check ts parameters on that rebuild I was curious the fs MMS qts after the rebuild. Thanks ur workman's skills is an absolute art.
Love tech stuff Tuesday, used to have a pair of crunch ground pounders that had the light up dust cap, things were beast back in the day 👍🏻👍🏻💯
Thank you very much for explaining the dangers to ones health in this video. Most you tubers I've seen do not. Very good video. Good job.
Common sense is sufficient for most. For others there are obvious warnings such as "caution coffee is hot".
Awsome, ending up with a super tight gap has been one of the issues I've thought about if I rebuild any of my old 90's subs. I priced out the cost to rebuild a pair of 12" Orion XTR Series 1's with RF replacement cones and what I think would work for a 2" coil. In many ways it doesn't seem worth the money unless you can improve the overall quality of the subwoofer. Great video.
Eric Becker that’s the exact sub I just blew and was curious about rebuilding options.. I still have one working one but would prefer 2 obviously.
BAAAAAAAD AAAAAAASS!👌 I wish I had my first set of subs from back about 1994 or so Rockford Fosgate series 1 -15's 10-100watts max!!!😄 man I beat on those for a looooong time. Then someone needed them more then I did and took em. I paid 104.00 bucks a peice and I had to detassle corn for 3 weeks to have enough bread to buy em
Mesmerizing to watch
Thanks for that little bit of bass knowledge was very helpful.
Man I really wanted a pair of FatBoy's way back when, I had got a pair of Drive Series 15's back in like 1999. I still have them, but deemed them not worth buying new soft parts for years ago, that and the baskets / magnets are not identical on the pair I have unfortunately. E6000 has worked well for me for many speakers / subs. I glued a new dust cap on a Kove Armageddon 15" back in like 2012-2013 and it still has a death grip on that dustcap. I tried to get it off a few months back as I wanted to save the cap for re-use, and it is not coming off without a fight.
Great video! How does rebuilding a speaker affect the original TS parameters? I’m wondering if it would affect the enclosure requirements.
This channel is growing!
I'd love to recone my Rockford hx2 12...love the tech stuff
Great video I wish u was putting out more videos maybe on some kicker motor rebuilds on some 12s
Do u have any quick tips for getting a magnet off a 10 inch subwoofer I'm doing a build and trying to turn a blown 10 into a passive radiator
cool build, I still wonder why you crossed the leads on the coil to the leads on the spider instead of swapping the input posts on the basket..
Because then the terminals would be wrong. Positive is always on the left, negative is always on the right, and they're labelled as such.
@@EMFAudio "always" nope .. it's a good guideline or a rule of thumb, but I'd never have considered crossing the leads under the dustcap with all things considered just to keep that as a guideline.. 😉
Yes, always. Look at EVERY speaker, pos and neg are always in the same spot. That still wouldn't change how the terminals are labelled, which would have been backwards. I'm a fan of doing things the right way, not the quick or easiest way.
I remember crunch from back on the day. Was it any good back then?
Not really.
I have some rockford hx2”s that need you!!!
Good shit bro i use to have those RF hx2 as well when they came out bad ass subs👍🙌💪
I have a set of Lanzar LP15's that need the same treatment. Do you guys offer this as a service? One of them has a loose coil but would love to replace both with an updated fiber reinforced cone.
I can do this, but I have to warn you the cost of doing so wouldn't be practical. It would only be worth the value of having working old equipment.
I need to watch this. Because I also have an older sub that needs it! I do hope I can get in on time. GMT +9 at our situation.
You can watch it any time, it's not live.
@@EMFAudio Just watched...wow...that's quite long for me!
VERY NICE CUSTOM REBUILD SIR! How difficult do you think it would be to make a recone for the Memphis LVS dual basket 15
Very. The former would have to be extended a lot.
I've contacted Memphis, they seem unwilling to try. I haven't blown them yet but I've been babying them! I want to put more power to them to see what they can do but before I do that I want to be sure that I can get them fixed. Or possibly upgraded
They don't deal with the same factory that made those anymore, so original parts aren't available. It wouldn't be particularly inexpensive for me to do it.
So what do you estimate will be the price?
@@74midwestbass74 I couldn't estimate a price without knowing specifically what I'm dealing with.
Very nice my brother
I still have the 4 California 12inch just like the b-52, in those day it writing 1200watt. After many video I have watch about speaker in TH-cam, I think it made around 100watt. They really cheat us so bad, but in those day those sup really now how kick. I think you know what kind a speaker.
I know the stuff you're talking about. Big power wasn't a thing back then. Amps couldn't make it so subs didn't need to take it.
oh look, E6000....just used that on my brand new E10. lol Thx for the tip, worked good!
Im here... Boutto watch it brother
I’m a sub nerd. I just love sub woofers love vids like this one
Show how,what,why you measured what you did to figure out what coil and soft parts needed for subwoofer build. That's what I really want/need to know.
Same
I’ll be tuned in!
@EMFaudio Coyld you do a video on the 0db, -5db, -10db test tones and explain what it is and what there used for in car audio?
That would be a very short video. Maybe I could start a segment of several things that don't warrant a long video together in 1 video.
Awesome.
Fantastic video I'm glad I subscribed long time ago 👍👍👍👍
EMF I have a older Kicker solo baric classic single vc 12" I would love for you to rebuild!!!!
I could possibly do it, but know it doesn't come cheap.
Yeah I'll have to call or send a email. Thanks
I probably be better off buying your lowballer!!!
Love crunch!! Question would heat shrink on the leads have worked or were you worried they might have rubbed through? How ever it is or isnt nice to see new life breathes into the v drive subs there the ones that dont ever get any love only the first series. Shame cause there every bit as good. Great video
Do you mean under the cap? They need to be secured anyway because vibration will fatigue it. But, I don't have heat shrink that small either. It's very small wire.
I have an Alpine SWR-1022D with a hole in the surround. Do you know how I could get a replacement surround...?
Thanks :)
@EMF Audio you didn't have to cross the leads from the voice coil you could have just switched the push terminals on the outside so you didn't have to worry about them touching so much, just a friendly tip
I could have, but then negative would be on the left and positive would be on the right and that's the opposite of industry standard, it would also be backwards of how it's labeled. I'd rather do it the right way than the easy way.
I'm very curious due to me having quite a few blown and sagging old gems laying around😊
@12:35- that’s what I told her this past weekend🤷🏽♂️😳🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️😂😂🤣🤣
👍
Love the show was just wondering why There is another square mounting space for second lot of terminals why did you not fit both terminals And then take advantage of the double voice coil and double spider ???
The spider doesn't change for being dual voice coil, but the idea was to keep this as close to the original is possible. That's why the dustcap was re-used.
Cool. love it as. Always .do you sell soft parts?
Generally, no. If we have some things we don't normally use, extra, we do.
Hey do you remember the Virtual technologies subwoofer and their giant vented box's??? Do you know where I can get a dustcap with their design???? I wanna slap it on a Skar VFX
Why would you want to do that?
Aren’t tight gaps somewhat troublesome? For example the Image Dynamics ID Max 12 has a supposedly very tight coil gap and those subs have problems with rubbing at higher power levels. Isn’t this a potential problem?
Yes, it can be a problem. This sub doesn't have a lot of throw so it's not that big of a deal. Higher throw subs generally have to have a bigger gap to prevent rubbing.
A turntable/lazy susan is almost a must for rebuilding subs.
It really does make things quite easy, and cleaner too.
can you rebuild the Rockville. with upgraded parts ???
I could if I still had it, and it would improve, but it still wouldn't be good.
EMF Audio yeah I know it wouldn't be a good sub either way. it would have just been fun I guess. but if u can do a sub upgrade and show difference in power handling of any would be super
@@DeBoSS212 I'd have to buy another one to do that, the other is gone.
Where did you buy the new parts?
Thank you for making this video pretty informative I am trying to re-con my infinity kappa 120.3se and can’t find none of the parts it has a 2 inch voice coil in the con plus does Is metal this is about a 20 year old speaker I would like to see if I can get it running and probably make it door voice coil
Could you please help me out thank you
Coils might be available but I couldn't do anything with that cone. It would have to go back with a paper cone.
@@EMFAudio The cone and dust cap is still good I just need to figure out how to remove the glue
@@scottborst5430 That's the reason they don't get reused.
@@EMFAudio Right now I don’t care long as it brings life back to that speaker or I should say the motor and probably go back and put it single coil but I would love to make it door cool is originally it was 1200 W max 300 W RMS
@@scottborst5430 DVC doesn't mean it handles more power. I'm guessing it's a 2" coil that is pretty short.
Anyone knows what the black glue and accelerator's name is? I would like to get it here in Mexico, because we don't have specialized speaker shops.
How can I find a dual 2ohm voice coil to fit the RFD 2212 hx2 Rockford fosgate. It's originally dual 4 ohm but I don't have a 2 ohm stable model amplifier but if I want to use one single subwoofer to make it 4 ohm I would need a 2 ohm dual voice coil who can you buy those parts from
OK I have a American bass 18'' HD18d1 dual 1 ohm impedance I believe it's a 4 inch voice coil as well just the motor and basket I don't have any of the soft parts or connectors believe it or not I got it from the scrap guy what would you suggest on rebuild
I've built those under 3 different manufacturer names (same sub).
Good jobs
so why didn't you make it into a dual voice coil woofer? I'm guessing you could of but just wanted to keep it original? thanks and I love your work I hopefully be doing this to my old MA audio 10inch woofer
You are correct.
Could you do me a huge favor sir could I please send you a couple of pictures to an email for you to take a look at and tell me where I could get a recoil kit for my woofer It would be greatly appreciated
@@justforlaughs8988 Pictures wouldn't be enough for me to tell you. You can try fixmyspeaker.com with measurements you take from what you have and make your best judgement.
OK where do you get your parts from? my sub is the older version of the ma audio ma100xe it's a dual 4ohm 300watts rms with the 600w stamped on the back of the magnet I believe it's a 2.5inch voice coil but would need to measure it before I by parts however I have never rebuilt a sub but I'm very good with my hands I'm a commercial electrician by trade and I've rebuilt motors and Transmissions so I have steady hands and I can pay attention and I have all the tools I just need to get supplies in material but do not know where are the best selection of a quail or parts would be and that's what I was hoping you would recommend a site to order from
That's why I recommended fixmyspeaker.com they may have what you're looking for.
Do you sell parts for people to do this at home? I have 2 jl audio w4-4 I want to rebuild with newer parts so it can have the most excursion and handle a little bit more power
We do not.
Hey can you repair shifted motors? Would be happy to send them in.
We are not equipped to do that.
Do you sell soft parts or willing to reveal where you get them?
No and no. If I can't use a stock part I use in another sub, I have a few different places I get things from as needed.
Might try robot underground. I bought recone kits from him for my subs. Worked great!
I'm curious to why if you are using a DVC coil then why not convert the sub into a DVC sub. I'm figuring that adding another set of terminals would be easy enough.
It wouldn't keep it original though. I could have more easily just used a new dustcap too.
Let’s see that sub inside of enclosure
You'd have to talk to the owner of them about that.
Great video sir 🤙
So how do you know how deep the coil has to be?
Im suprised u didnt use the oposing tab to make it a dvc instead of wireing soldering the dvc coil together. What was the final value? Is it a 2ohm or 8ohm now?
The idea was to keep it as close to original as possible. It was a single 4 ohm before, an the terminals read 4 ohms now, with a single connection.
12:28, how did you know? I was going to ask for a part 2 if you did not include it.
If it were me, just an idea, because I do these kind of repairs as well from time to time, I would have ran the positive under the cone, and through the cone, and the negative above the cone, or vise verse. So the possibility of voltage heating the voice coil wire doesn't melt the glue, and cross under vibration, or pressure.
It can't generate enough heat to melt the glue. The same process is used on out 6,500 watt sub without issue. Also because it's secured with the glue, it can't vibrate. All the connections and leads are encased in glue, it's a solid block basically.
EMF Audio I figured that. That’s why I said, just and idea. For me it’s just the idea of crossing coil wires, just because humans now and days look for a reason to get something for free or get over. And that would be a go to. You and I know it’s not a problem, but in the eyes of those trying to get over, that’s a go to. Sucks we as techs have to think like that at times, but things like that is a cover your a$$ thing.
@@mikehonda7934 You might also notice I put paper between the leads as well, to isolate them as an extra measure.
@@EMFAudio went back to watch again. I seen the paper thing you did. That works too. I came in after you did that part.
Why not just change the terminals?
I have an old kicker that has a whole in the surround so it could probably use a patch job or just a full on recone. I'm pretty sure it is about 20 years old as well and I was wondering if you know any collectors who would be interested in this sub.
Post it online, someone may be interested.
Ok and also how necessary is it to charge subwoofer motors?
@@mamao_st_is_mine It's typically not needed. If it wasn't fully charged to start with there would be benefit.
Is there a cone and surround for a gen1 12w6??? Or a rubber surround for it the foam ones don’t last
I've never fooled with one. There may be something that fits, but it's a complete recone to do it unless you just refoam the surround.
on reconing tgesub as you did, doesnt it changes the parameters of the sub eith that coil being not the original and the higher round spider?
so this would not be the same as the original, although it may out perform it.
If it's not identical it will change the parameters. The coil will be the biggest change because of the electrical side of things, the cone and surround can change a little mechanical but if the mass is different (even more than just the coil) it will also have an effect.
were can i buy tht same rebuild kit i have a 2nch dvc interfire 12nch subwoofer im rebuilding so if sumone reads this message please let me no
Cool good video. Do you sale voice coils..
Sometimes, not often, depends what it is and if I've got them extra.
@@EMFAudio how about a yard sale!?
@@badasscaraudio2240 I had some items listed on the old website, I haven't gotten around to adding the items on the new website
Very cool!!
If i want to put a 400oz motor on a ab xfl or ap txxbd4 both 12 inch does a bigger motor mean it is louder with more xmaxx
The motor weight doesn't mean anything in regards to strength or Xmax. I did a video on how parts aren't universal you should check out as well.
I have an old pair of rockford p2 10s. Can u hook me up with a link for where u got the parts
th-cam.com/video/xc-jRR4zK1I/w-d-xo.html
I've got a few that need to be done are you doing this for fun or did you get hired to do it
I built 2 of these because somebody wanted them. They didn't pay a lot for them, but they did pay for them.
I have a solox 18 that needs refreshed being they are discontinued and kicker refuses to sell the parts could it be fixed too
@@418lightning8 It could be built into something else that isn't square.
whats the nane of the glue and the spray stuff
Crunch!
Just curious how the T/S parameters on the new sub compare to the original?
I didn't bother to break it in and get specs. I thought about it but I've been busy and just wanted to get them done and out the door.
What's the lowballer motor gauss? just curious. Thanks
On the old website I had an article about motor gauss, I thought I did a video on it but I must have included it in a video not an entire video on it. Gauss IS NOT a measure of sub performance, only motor potential. I'd have to measure one again, I don't remember the figure, but I can tell you that a Sundown Zv3 and a 6.5" door speaker from a 1994 Chevy Astro have a similar gauss number. That just makes the point of why you can't go off that number for any reason.
@@EMFAudio I do know that it's not an indicator of sub performance. was just curious. Thank you!
Does the BL increase due to the tight gap?
BL has more to do with the amount of wire in the gap than how tight the gap is. The coil ID was extremely tight but the coil OD was pretty normal. If the coil OD was a larger gap from the top plate but the coil ID was extremely tight, it would have less BL.
what viscosity glue do you use?
thin / medium /or thick?
2400, but I also use it cold.
None of you guys say where to get rebuild components.
The subs in my car are over 20 yo with no problems, been in .many different cars, same subs.
Converting to a single voice coil, if the individual coils are 4 ohm, you wanted a 8 ohm speaker, not a 2 ohm. You could have specified what the coils are and reminded viewers for system matching.
The sticker on the motor says "4 ohm" so a dual 2 was used. Believe it or not, I know what ohms law is.
@@EMFAudio thanks. It wasn't in the vid and I just wanted clarification
would it not be/have been easier to reverse the polarity at the connecting post on the basket
It would have been easier, and wrong.
How would you like to do a video of you rebuilding my massive audio DMX 15?
I could do it.
@@EMFAudio let me know when and where to ship to ship or hand-deliver. I'm in Greer so I can get it to you pretty quickly.
@@romesyoutubechannel5356 Message our Facebook page or through the contact form on our website and we'll work it out.
I have a pair of old school cerwin vega vega 12s that need recone.
Ts parameters it should be quite efficient if gap is tight
Already sent to the customer that bought them.
Cool!! 👍👍
Would of not be easier to just turn the terminal around then cross over the leads.
If only parts where as cheap in the UK would make a killing on making hybrid budget subs and doing JL subs as plenty cooked ones around
You can't "turn the terminal". The positive and negative would be backwards.
I wish I could rebuild my 12 inch audiobahns one of the coils rubs and the other has come damage
Yes I can probably rebuild my JBL p1022 now
Weren't them bolt on push terminals could you have just swapped the them around instead crossing the wires in the dust cap
The idea was to keep it original as possible. Swapping wires would make the terminals wrong.
I understand know
I have some kicker compvr 15s 07s that i need reconed my internet search doesn't show me anything that i could use can anybody give me suggestions on what i should order as soft parts
Those are throw-away subs, that's why you won't find any info. It's a 13 year old sub you could buy for $75, the cost of reconing it is more than buying a new one.
@@EMFAudio it's a shame because they sell them for like $250 but yeah i can buy a sub that outperforms them for $100 thank you for your reply.... My kids will be happy to see them leave the space they've been in for 2 years haha
Just built a Rockville destroyer ....
Can lanzar max pro subwoofers be rebuilt
Any can, if it's worth it or not is up to you.
Why cross the wires under the dustcap????? Turn the connection on the "outside" instead.
So it can be exposed to other issues? Or do you mean swap polarity so it's reversed and incorrect?
@@EMFAudio I mean you remove the connection (the goldplated connection on the outside) and turn it 180 degree and mount it back again. Then you can connect the + and - to + and - on the outside connetion without crossing the wires under the dustcap. Hope you understand what i mean.
I think I understand what you mean, it just doesn't work that way. The pos and neg are just posts I solder onto. If you don't swap the wires it doesn't change anything but the label.
@@EMFAudio At 11,50 you say posetive on voicecoil is on right side and the connection/teminal/tensillead posetive is on the left side. So you have to cross them. I guess we can agree on that. :) If we dont cross the wires - and + will be wrong on the terminal/outside connection (dont know the english word for it) , but if you turn the terminal/outside connection 180 degrees the markings on the terminal/outside conectins will be correct. And you dont have to cross the wires. When the terminal is turned the + connection/tensillead will also be on the right side at the voicecoil.
@@Skoog. The markings are only on 1 side, and they're by color. Industry standard is positive on left, negative on right so I do it the right way. You would never know the difference if I didn't do a video on it.
I had a crunch fat boy 15 that I blew a few weeks ago, Isn’t fully blown but just sounds terrible :(
How much you charge to recone a sub
It depends on what the sub is.
It's a tezla 1.5k 15"
@@kaiksi.8056 I don't know much about that sub but I'd guess before shipping both ways it would be $190.
Could you not of just swapped the leads to not have the fiasco under the dust cap?
Yes, but it would be wrong. Positive and negative markings would be backwards and it wouldn't be industry standard.