Looks Great! I have only a couple suggestions as a long time RV owner: 1) I know it’s a pain, but make sure every external screw gets a sealer (caulk, sikoflex or whatever). Water just always finds a way into the walls. Then it rots and you end up with a mess. This is the #1 reason RVs get wrecked. 2) Make a window sized hole in your back wall and install the lowest power window air-conditioner you can find. Walmart/Amazon or whatever. They are vastly cheaper than ceiling mounts, WAY more efficient because they are built in mass. Probably like $170 for a 5000 BTU, which will be overkill for your RV even at 100+ degrees. I’ve tested this. If I recall it will draw around 500 watts; so should run fine off a battery inverter setup. Also if it breaks you can just pull into the nearest Walmart and replace it in the parking lot vs. waiting for parts to fix expensive “RV air conditioners”. Sorry in advance if you already sealed those screws and just did it off camera. I LOVE your rig! It’s beautiful inside and out.
This +1... I got PTSD watching him drill a whole bunch of holes in his brand new roof. That's what happened to my camper, the PO drilled holes for an antenna I didn't know about and it rotted the entire camper between the walls.
Duct Seal is something you can use to cover the pass through holes to prevent water and bugs from getting into your trailer. It's easy to find at any hardware store that carries electrical parts. It will skin over but will not ever harden so if you need up add new items to the pass through just remove the old and reuse. It's also great for use to seal windows and doors too... Cheers...
Nice install. I'm using small 25 watt panels (I got free left over form a project) along with some used gel-cell batteries to power lights and an RV fan on my deck. Works great. Staying with 12 volt DC is some much more efficient than running 120 stuff thru an inverter. Bigger items like your AC unit will probably need the inverter, but with 400 watts of panels, you should be good. Working on plans to have a garage built and planning solar at 12 VDC for most of the stuff. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are pricy, but have impressive efficiency. I've got a portable solar charger for my Ham radio bug out kit that I've done some testing with and it works very well. Safe Travels and God Bless!
Awesome little place to stay warm and dry. Just an idea built a frame to mount the front two solar panels in that has a hinge on it so that when you get to where you're going you can raise them up to be flat. Otherwise the trailer needs to be facing the sun to get tho most out of the panels. Just a thought. Again nice little rig.
I think the 2 panels on an angle you want to link together and the ones on top linked together. I think if the 2 at an angle are in the shade but the roof is still in good light it will impact the performance.
Love your build and attention to detail. One thing I would recommend is what we call a drip loop where the solar wires enter the cabin, it will help keep water from running in. Keep up the good work you are inspiring me to do something similar.
Hello . i am new to your channel. what I would have changed or made differently: the bed, if I was your wash I would let the bed protrude at the back over the hood of the jeep, so you have much more space inside the place where the bed is NOW to make a seat with two chairs and a table, such a dinner? , that the table and chairs can become a 3rd bed for another guest to sleep. You should also try to keep your indoor living space as large as possible, because in bad weather that is all the space you have. so you have a sitting area and dining room in one. a kitchen block opposite the seat and you have everything plus a bit of walking space without bumping your head everywhere. with kind regards Hollandduck from the Netherlands
Its probably been mentionned but dont forget to cover the mounting screws so it doesnt get water infiltrations product like Dicor at a RV stoor is a good choice. Super cool build happy TH-cam recommended your channel as you might like.
Keep up the great work 👍. I did a solar install on a cabover and used " jumper cables " for my wiring. It was cheaper than the rolls of 10guage and bigger than 10guage. Great build man, can't wait to see it in use.
Man, you are truly awesome! My family is following your progress- we are rooting for your build.. and can’t wait to see your next video. All the best from S. Korea! :)
GREAT RIG! BUT. You MUST protect your LP tanks AND hoses. I recommend oversized BX type cable sheath or aluminium pipes cut to fit. If debris hits your LP tank or hose it could b catastrophic. Hitch weight indicator is a great idea. Solar panels should b on a grate you can angle. Also protect them from debris while traveling or hail. I also recommend a solar generator (amazon $250). Its a charge controller, lithium battery, AC out, USB, 12v DC And flashlight. No fumes, silent operation. I think you can string them together to get more power. They're small (9x5x8) and light...6lbs. And some let u get 200 watts power from them. I don't often live vicariously, but when I do it's thru guys like you!
Nice build! I am working on a similar project with a 5x9 trailer and a 4 wheeler. Same issue with the RV windows. Try getting thin strips of black steel/aluminum of siding material and span the gap.
I would be looking at some way of covering those Waterproof Solar Cable Connectors, just to protect them a little more from adverse Weather conditions.
Looks great man I love this camper you’ve done great my only concern would be chips in the solar as you drive, rocks jumping off the rock may hit the glass panels. Just keep an eye on them I may be wrong I hope I am. Living this build man your doing great.
Yeah I'm just gonna play it buy ear and see how they hold up. These more expensive versions from Renogy stay that that are rated for high winds and hail. So well see what that means lol.
This is an awesome build and a very informative video, as I am considering adding solar to my own rig. HOWEVER, please do something about sealing up all of those screw holes you put in the exterior walls - each one is a leak point, and the wood inside your walls will hate it. A little dab of RTV will do the trick, and you’re going to have to learn to check them every so often to make sure the elements haven’t degraded it.
As a long time solar guy, I would have used those stock MC-4 connectors and just "daisy chained " that array. Then used smaller gauge wire to bring the now relatively high voltage (as much as 80 volts open circuit or so) into to where ever the charge controller is. The charge controller would be a MPPT type, with the ability to take voltage as high as 150 VDC in, but put 12 VDC out (higher then that, point being, to charge a 12 VDC system. You actually gain efficiency doing this, depending on the state of charge of the battery and the ambient temps, as much as 25% , but at least 10 to 15%. The MPPT controllers cost a bit more, but are more then worth it in the long run.
Hey John, wonderful idea. Laugh, I would put my 1000cc Arctic Cat on it. As for the windows, you are absolutely right. The roof, I would have sloped about 30° all around the top because of the wind loads and the airstream. In addition, you save a good 15% fuel, whether gasoline or diesel, with gasoline even more. The front front, where the gas bottles are, etc.. I would disguise below, because of under air when driving, this resistance costs fuel. The front part, well disguise, at least 7 ° above from the axle fork in the direction of the container. Otherwise along the fork. Goes certainly well with sheet metal. Your advantage, if the gas cylinders are well secured, the other also. So you save yourself, fuel and above all it is well protected against any weather. Pair of vent holes, because of gas and you can install everything firmly. You will surely have the solar panels screwed on the roof. It makes sense if the screw holes are completely sealed with bitumen afterwards. Take the screws out, run bitumen into holes and re-screw. Above, again seal well with bitumen, but only if the trailer is in a room, with a good 15 ° C. Come well into the new year many greetings from Frankfurt. Stay healthy and take good care of your family.
Just found your channel and subbed...been thing of doing something like this for yrs. Have some drawings down. Going to go back and watch the older video's
You should look into the Ecoflow line of battery boxes, the fastest charging out of all the lithium battery boxes. More specifically the Ecoflow Delta. The Delta supports up to 400w solar input has an 1800w pure since inverter but can also fully charge from AC in less than 2 hours.
cool setup so far, I see 2 issues so far, the angle panels will be much less efficient in over head sun, better on adjustable mounts. You can test that where you are, hook up one panel at a time and see the power they generate, you will be surprised the difference. I found that out on my houseboat. Second issue is driving on roads, the front panels on the angle are exposed to flying rocks and dirt, you may need covers while driving.
This is cool. Since you’re putting them on the front of the camper, you might want to make some sort of shield that goes over them just for when you’re driving to protect the solar panels. Especially if you’re going off road you might be driving out in the woods where it would hit a tree or on a road where somebody’s in front of you slinging rocks up in the air. Just putting a diamond plate shield or something over the front so you don’t have that stuff hitting your solar panels as you’re driving would be a good idea, then when you get there I could just flip down. You got plenty of room to build an outside box for all your electronics and batteries and all that so it doesn’t take up room inside as well. You could also get some of that black PVC and just use it as a conduit for your wiring. That way you don’t have to use or worry about UV resistant wire either
To free up some space you might think of a way to attach the top panels to the "drivers" side on hinges. You will most likely need the power once you've stopped moving. By putting the panels on the side on hinges, you free up your rooftop for more space, and you simply lift the panels into their horizontal position when you're camped out. Might be able to even put them over the windows to offer some security to the unit, and then when you lift them, its a little roof for your window.
liking everything about so far.....mostly. first, where does the lady sleep? consider a fold up/fold down double size bed. might fit 2 people...stacked. could be fun. you have that heavy heavy multi purpose bar along the back. buy some roto pac water and gas cans. consider an accordion type stair into the cabin. trim out the interior door frame with some of the flooring. radius the inside & outside corners. maybe paint it semi gloss black. check out plastic shelf edging to cover window surround gaps or buy pliable rubber/plastic molding.....even automotive weather striping. consider installing your batts in the weather guard box you install. out of sight etc. regarding the gen, perhaps double metal straps with padlocks or make a lockable metal vented box for it. IDK shallow cabs across from the bed plus uppers leaving ample access into/out of cabin. uppers over the bed. consider running gas line underneath frame. just sayin'
Love your build but u need to turn the connections 90° and leave a drip loop otherwise water will drip down the cables and inside your camper also take the screws out and put a dab of silicone to stop water
Would of likes to see the wires ran and hidden more. But I don’t even know if you had it planned before finishing the inside first. Hope it works great for you
congrats on getting your power on there! this thing keeps looking more and more awesome! i hate that i have to even suggest this and i thought awhile about even saying anything... but here we go- with so much of your wiring being outside the camper, i would maybe buy something to cover it further so that no one clips it off... someone clipped off my wiring in a bunch of places to steal the wiring maybe for copper? it really sucked. i then ran almost everything inside after except on the roof right by the panels... but i've been thinking about ways to cover it to keep it outside... you know those decorative snap in tubes that cover wires on walls by desks and behind tvs etc? it is just plastic that covers the wires that you can take on and off... i'm wondering if something like that would work to help detour assholes? and hopefully your neighborhood doesn't have this issue... it was when it was parked in my yard, not on a trip that it happened to me. anyway, grain of salt and all that. best of luck and happy holidays!
Don't forget to use some Dicor Lap sealant on top (and under if you can) your screws. You may want to look into a Bluetti 2k+kwh portable battery (like your Jackery). They allow a much higher input voltage rate. And a large 1000W+ inverter.
It may be better to wire the front two together and the top two together in parallel to optimize output. Then the angle ones work together in the morning of later afternoon and the top one will be more efficient midday. 👍🏻
Not a bad idea, thank you! I was worried about shading though. I've read when you write the panels in series if one ends up shaded then it reduces power output in all the other panels. Is that true? I heard some talk about bypass diodes to help solve it but I'm not sure. Still learning the ways of solar lol.
@@CodeBrownProductions yes that's true, since you don't have a huge system I would connect all in parallel as I did on my trailer with four Renogy panels. This will also work if and when you add a controller to charge 12 volt battery system.
John, What type of air exchanger will you be using inside when you stay there for a few days or even overnight? Carbon monoxide and smoke detector are in order. I would suggest that you make provisions for a CB radio or GMRS radio which could easily fit under your desk with a slider. Nonetheless, you are quite creative so keep it up. Patrick.
Would paint the brackets and seal around screws. Like another said, want to make sure you have a cover for those panels. Hails, rocks, etc. They’ll be the first to get it. 🙈😎
I couldn’t see the connector pin very well in you video. Was there a space to slide the copper wire up into a “cup”? Normally the “winglets” are for clamping onto the insulation. Then you crimp the “cup” into the copper wire. Correct me if I’m wrong. Maybe Renergy connectors are different. Those winglets aren’t a good crimp.
Yes I agree. In my profession I do a lot of wiring, installing terminals of all types. Those terminals I believe are designed to be crimped in the barrel, and the wings are for a lite crimp on the insulation, to add some extra support to prevent pulloutand wire breakage at the crimp. If you start to experience low power output more than likely you will have broken wires or loose connections at the crimp that you did with the duckbill pliers. A good pair of electricians pliers or sparkplug pliers usually have crimping dies that will work or come close to working. Also you can find terminal crimping tools on Amazon for less than $25 that will do the job.
solar panels on the front angled section of the trailer severely limit their effectiveness to an hour or so a day. Then there's the fact they're facing the road when driving. They will get destroyed in winter conditions unless you've derived some cover for them.
The same concern holds true for any fixed panel installation. Depending on how he parks, he'll get plenty of power off those panels but, building a cover for the front panels is a must.
think about a couple of covers for the angled panels while you are driving otherwise you are gong to be cleaning bugs off of them after you get where you are going. Just a thought.
Hiya, I love the build, but those forward facing panels might get hit with debris/stones when travelling.. are you sure you shouldn't just have adjustable roof mounted panels..? Jeff from Scotland.
I really wanted something that I can set and forget. Having the front panel permanently mount will decrease output power but I've over paneled so I should be good.
ContinuousResources sells solar panels from Hightec made in the US with 25yr warranty 200w for $185/shipped works out cheaper than 2 100w. Use a solar gland for running through roof, from the Amazon. Or a combiner box from a grey pvc outdoor electrical box. There's much cheaper noname panel mounts on the Amazon. 1.5-2w per AH of battery is a good start point
One can also use like a 300w panel mounted like an awning over windows/side on a hinge. Threaded rod can be used to make a prop rod. Lots of power on a small roof space
So like those two panels on slat? How are you going to protect them going down the road from rocks, pebbles, and hail stones. Those glass panels have my doubts.
Add some lithium ion Batteries like DIY Powerwalls that's gonna be a great idea as everyone do.....! And I wish Sun will be Come for your next video lol 🤪👍
You might want to make a cover for the front mounted panels when in transit. That part of the vehicle gets lots of micro abrasion you don't see until it's too late. Towing my car behind RV without a windshield protector mounted destroyed the windshield. It was pitted so badly from road dust I kicked myself for not buying a windshield cover. The efficiency of the solar panels will be greatly degraded because the pitting will redirect the light.
I was worried about the same thing so ill prolly have to end up making a cover or something. I did buy higher end panels for the roof that are supposed to have stronger glass and be hail resistant. Hopefully that will help.
Not to be a negative Nancy but the reason your crimpers don't work on those connectors is because they are solder on the winglets are just to hold it while you fill the hole with solder
You can get a reversible fan and put that on the roof, it will suck air in or blow it out, in such a small space I don't think you need AC. Also the added height can be problematic and costly if misjudged, replacing a solar panel would be disappointing, replacing an AC unit would be heart breaking.
I'm still debating adding solar to my 7 x14 cargo trailer build thanks for the video as far as a/c having spent the money and installed a roof top A/C I would suggest with your build that a rooftop is overkill,a Max aire fan thru the roof is cool but most importantly I would suggest a very small window A/C unit installed in the back wall of your camper with your talents you could box it in nicely and coat the box up with the bed liner.its true that roof top A/C units can be loud and for under a 100 dollars a 5000 btu A/C would freeze you out and also would be much easier on your genset.check out my build at our Homesteader cargo trailer build on youtube,I don't know how to leave a link.FYI I'm also a jeeper,a 1990 yj and a 2001 xj
Have a drink or smoke a joint. Relax and settle down on the show in tail. Also ordered the adapter cable for the power bank yet made your own power cables with more of a hassle connector. Learn how to solder and keep a cordless solder open or at least a butane iron or at least a mini pocket torch other uses to plus don’t forget solder just in case you have a road side repair. Don’t forget 3m super 33 tape and some heat shrink
100% agreed, LifePo4 or the like. They are definitely costly, but its cheaper than buying AGM or deep cycles that you'll be replacing in a few years for lithium anyway!
Also either remove while driving or have covers for them you’d truck kicks up crap. Also make sure your connections are also in so other little housing box just to keep them protected plus the sun will kill all plastics and a little house is cheap and easy to install compared to installing we plugs
Add some dialect grease inside the connections and behind the rigger washers to keep seals fresh and keep out corrosion not to prevent a bad connection.
A little further along watching this: you have 400 watts of solar, meaning as much as 33 amps (at 12 VDC) going into that little unit, thru that small cable. Again, as a long time solar guy, I would have not bought that "plug and play" unit, but a separate MPPT controller, daisy chained those panels, and then even 14 gauge wire would have been adequate since 400 watts at 80 volts is only 5+ amps! Then, down stream from the MPPT charge controller, I'd have a simple power center, with DC rated breakers that also function as a switch. From there to the battery, something from an outfit like this :dakotalithium.com/rv-camper-deep-cycle-lithium-replacement-house-battery-batteries/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_qD_BRDiARIsANjZ2LBrXGJ4q_mkd2MMDY71xOZto_9MpOXfW3968CiZZ5a6lEduRWQZUlYaAh7WEALw_wcB Then from the battery to a DC power center, again breakered/switched, to your DC loads, and with a lead to a 120 VAC inverter for AC power. Hey you did good for the first time, 400 watts is a a lot of power for that size camper, ANY solar is better then none! One more thing, you may be exceeding the amount of input power that little unit can handle. It will protect itself by shunting the power, but as a result you won't get what you should. I don't know the amp size of the little battery inside of that thing, but anything more then about 20% of that is wasted, as it won't accept it.
"All nice and water proof." Didn't notice how you sealed your panel installation screws. You won't see the leaks until it is too late. Ounce of prevention and all.
When I was installing solar panels on RV's (did it for 30 years) I used a (not sure what the tech term is) a rubber bushing with an embedded brass nut. You drill a half inch hole, which is a snug fit for the bushing, push it in while wiggling (it, not you), and then a 1/4" bolt (via the solar panel stand off bracket, the higher the better, cooler/more air flow means more power) that, once engaged into the rubber bushing, would mechanically squish it up against the inside of the roof, making a water tight (no complaints, ever) and mechanically sound connection. JUST for the heck of it, I'd also dab a little good sealant over the fitting.
Looks Great! I have only a couple suggestions as a long time RV owner: 1) I know it’s a pain, but make sure every external screw gets a sealer (caulk, sikoflex or whatever). Water just always finds a way into the walls. Then it rots and you end up with a mess. This is the #1 reason RVs get wrecked. 2) Make a window sized hole in your back wall and install the lowest power window air-conditioner you can find. Walmart/Amazon or whatever. They are vastly cheaper than ceiling mounts, WAY more efficient because they are built in mass. Probably like $170 for a 5000 BTU, which will be overkill for your RV even at 100+ degrees. I’ve tested this. If I recall it will draw around 500 watts; so should run fine off a battery inverter setup. Also if it breaks you can just pull into the nearest Walmart and replace it in the parking lot vs. waiting for parts to fix expensive “RV air conditioners”. Sorry in advance if you already sealed those screws and just did it off camera. I LOVE your rig! It’s beautiful inside and out.
I agree with the air conditioner!!
Yeah, 100% on the window unit. However, a small step up is a minisplit for a slightly larger build.
This +1... I got PTSD watching him drill a whole bunch of holes in his brand new roof. That's what happened to my camper, the PO drilled holes for an antenna I didn't know about and it rotted the entire camper between the walls.
Duct Seal is something you can use to cover the pass through holes to prevent water and bugs from getting into your trailer. It's easy to find at any hardware store that carries electrical parts. It will skin over but will not ever harden so if you need up add new items to the pass through just remove the old and reuse. It's also great for use to seal windows and doors too... Cheers...
Nice install. I'm using small 25 watt panels (I got free left over form a project) along with some used gel-cell batteries to power lights and an RV fan on my deck. Works great. Staying with 12 volt DC is some much more efficient than running 120 stuff thru an inverter. Bigger items like your AC unit will probably need the inverter, but with 400 watts of panels, you should be good. Working on plans to have a garage built and planning solar at 12 VDC for most of the stuff. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are pricy, but have impressive efficiency. I've got a portable solar charger for my Ham radio bug out kit that I've done some testing with and it works very well. Safe Travels and God Bless!
Awesome little place to stay warm and dry.
Just an idea built a frame to mount the front two solar panels in that has a hinge on it so that when you get to where you're going you can raise them up to be flat. Otherwise the trailer needs to be facing the sun to get tho most out of the panels. Just a thought. Again nice little rig.
I think the 2 panels on an angle you want to link together and the ones on top linked together.
I think if the 2 at an angle are in the shade but the roof is still in good light it will impact the performance.
I was looking through the comments seeing if someone said this yet. Yes it will drastically reduce output if one of the panels is shaded
Love your build and attention to detail. One thing I would recommend is what we call a drip loop where the solar wires enter the cabin, it will help keep water from running in. Keep up the good work you are inspiring me to do something similar.
....Are you a satellite or a cable guy?
@@geobeard3804 I used to be in the satellite biz
I think you did a nice clean install , very good job !
Thank you. I appreciate that!
Just found your channel and must say it's awesome love this build might have to build one myself much love bro
Hello .
i am new to your channel.
what I would have changed or made differently: the bed,
if I was your wash I would let the bed protrude at the back over the hood of the jeep,
so you have much more space inside the place where the bed is NOW
to make a seat with two chairs and a table, such a dinner? ,
that the table and chairs can become a 3rd bed for another guest to sleep.
You should also try to keep your indoor living space as large as possible,
because in bad weather that is all the space you have.
so you have a sitting area and dining room in one.
a kitchen block opposite the seat and you have everything
plus a bit of walking space without bumping your head everywhere.
with kind regards Hollandduck from the Netherlands
Its probably been mentionned but dont forget to cover the mounting screws so it doesnt get water infiltrations product like Dicor at a RV stoor is a good choice. Super cool build happy TH-cam recommended your channel as you might like.
On even moderately sunny days I can keep my rv batteries topped off with an 18w panel. I expect your setup will perform brilliantly. AWESOME build!
Keep up the great work 👍. I did a solar install on a cabover and used " jumper cables " for my wiring. It was cheaper than the rolls of 10guage and bigger than 10guage. Great build man, can't wait to see it in use.
I did a similar project with tool shed & back porch on trailer.loving it 🌄
Man, you are truly awesome! My family is following your progress- we are rooting for your build.. and can’t wait to see your next video. All the best from S. Korea! :)
Thank you!
GREAT RIG! BUT. You MUST protect your LP tanks AND hoses. I recommend oversized BX type cable sheath or aluminium pipes cut to fit. If debris hits your LP tank or hose it could b catastrophic. Hitch weight indicator is a great idea. Solar panels should b on a grate you can angle. Also protect them from debris while traveling or hail. I also recommend a solar generator (amazon $250). Its a charge controller, lithium battery, AC out, USB, 12v DC And flashlight. No fumes, silent operation. I think you can string them together to get more power. They're small (9x5x8) and light...6lbs. And some let u get 200 watts power from them.
I don't often live vicariously, but when I do it's thru guys like you!
Yup, im gonna have to buy two propane covers as I cant find any black dual 40lbs covers.
Love following your progress here. I've never embarked on DIY solar and want to you. This gives me confidence to give it a try. Keep it it!
Nice build! I am working on a similar project with a 5x9 trailer and a 4 wheeler. Same issue with the RV windows. Try getting thin strips of black steel/aluminum of siding material and span the gap.
Clean install that you can actually get to the things you may need to maintain or swap out without disassembling your entire rig. Great job.
very nice solar setup
I would be looking at some way of covering those Waterproof Solar Cable Connectors, just to protect them a little more from adverse Weather conditions.
I would also want to cover the panels when towing.
@@2001wj Only the front ones, maybe a removable light plastic cover would be enough. The roof ones are as safe as you can ask.
Oh, wow, you did an awesome job it really looks good.
Looks great man I love this camper you’ve done great my only concern would be chips in the solar as you drive, rocks jumping off the rock may hit the glass panels. Just keep an eye on them I may be wrong I hope I am. Living this build man your doing great.
Yeah I'm just gonna play it buy ear and see how they hold up. These more expensive versions from Renogy stay that that are rated for high winds and hail. So well see what that means lol.
This is an awesome build and a very informative video, as I am considering adding solar to my own rig. HOWEVER, please do something about sealing up all of those screw holes you put in the exterior walls - each one is a leak point, and the wood inside your walls will hate it. A little dab of RTV will do the trick, and you’re going to have to learn to check them every so often to make sure the elements haven’t degraded it.
Already have, it just wasn't shown in the video. Every since hole is covered with silicone.
As a long time solar guy, I would have used those stock MC-4 connectors and just "daisy chained " that array. Then used smaller gauge wire to bring the now relatively high voltage (as much as 80 volts open circuit or so) into to where ever the charge controller is. The charge controller would be a MPPT type, with the ability to take voltage as high as 150 VDC in, but put 12 VDC out (higher then that, point being, to charge a 12 VDC system. You actually gain efficiency doing this, depending on the state of charge of the battery and the ambient temps, as much as 25% , but at least 10 to 15%. The MPPT controllers cost a bit more, but are more then worth it in the long run.
Hey John, wonderful idea.
Laugh, I would put my 1000cc Arctic Cat on it.
As for the windows, you are absolutely right.
The roof, I would have sloped about 30° all around the top because of the wind loads and the airstream. In addition, you save a good 15% fuel, whether gasoline or diesel, with gasoline even more.
The front front, where the gas bottles are, etc..
I would disguise below, because of under air when driving, this resistance costs fuel. The front part, well disguise, at least 7 ° above from the axle fork in the direction of the container. Otherwise along the fork. Goes certainly well with sheet metal. Your advantage, if the gas cylinders are well secured, the other also. So you save yourself, fuel and above all it is well protected against any weather. Pair of vent holes, because of gas and you can install everything firmly.
You will surely have the solar panels screwed on the roof. It makes sense if the screw holes are completely sealed with bitumen afterwards. Take the screws out, run bitumen into holes and re-screw. Above, again seal well with bitumen, but only if the trailer is in a room, with a good 15 ° C.
Come well into the new year many greetings from Frankfurt.
Stay healthy and take good care of your family.
Just found your channel and subbed...been thing of doing something like this for yrs. Have some drawings down. Going to go back and watch the older video's
As others have said, seal those screws. I have had good luck with the Dicor products. Good luck!
I love this freaking homemade bugout camper. Freaking love it.
Good placement!😎
You should look into the Ecoflow line of battery boxes, the fastest charging out of all the lithium battery boxes. More specifically the Ecoflow Delta. The Delta supports up to 400w solar input has an 1800w pure since inverter but can also fully charge from AC in less than 2 hours.
cool setup so far, I see 2 issues so far, the angle panels will be much less efficient in over head sun, better on adjustable mounts. You can test that where you are, hook up one panel at a time and see the power they generate, you will be surprised the difference. I found that out on my houseboat.
Second issue is driving on roads, the front panels on the angle are exposed to flying rocks and dirt, you may need covers while driving.
This is cool. Since you’re putting them on the front of the camper, you might want to make some sort of shield that goes over them just for when you’re driving to protect the solar panels. Especially if you’re going off road you might be driving out in the woods where it would hit a tree or on a road where somebody’s in front of you slinging rocks up in the air. Just putting a diamond plate shield or something over the front so you don’t have that stuff hitting your solar panels as you’re driving would be a good idea, then when you get there I could just flip down. You got plenty of room to build an outside box for all your electronics and batteries and all that so it doesn’t take up room inside as well.
You could also get some of that black PVC and just use it as a conduit for your wiring. That way you don’t have to use or worry about UV resistant wire either
Those wire contacts are a MOLEX style. Pretty nice job so far!
AMAZING! You are the man!
You are!
To free up some space you might think of a way to attach the top panels to the "drivers" side on hinges. You will most likely need the power once you've stopped moving. By putting the panels on the side on hinges, you free up your rooftop for more space, and you simply lift the panels into their horizontal position when you're camped out. Might be able to even put them over the windows to offer some security to the unit, and then when you lift them, its a little roof for your window.
Lookin Good. Thanks for the Crimping. I'm tired of waiting on the crimping tool set I ordered 3 weeks ago. TAKE CARE..
Turned out well. Good to see folks taking time with looming and hold downs, always makes for nice touch!
liking everything about so far.....mostly. first, where does the lady sleep? consider a fold up/fold down double size bed. might fit 2 people...stacked. could be fun. you have that heavy heavy multi purpose bar along the back. buy some roto pac water and gas cans. consider an accordion type stair into the cabin. trim out the interior door frame with some of the flooring. radius the inside & outside corners. maybe paint it semi gloss black. check out plastic shelf edging to cover window surround gaps or buy pliable rubber/plastic molding.....even automotive weather striping. consider installing your batts in the weather guard box you install. out of sight etc. regarding the gen, perhaps double metal straps with padlocks or make a lockable metal vented box for it. IDK
shallow cabs across from the bed plus uppers leaving ample access into/out of cabin.
uppers over the bed.
consider running gas line underneath frame.
just sayin'
Have you thought of a small mini split from Mr. Cool? That will give you heat and air.
Thought about it but I don't know where I would install and route it. I pre built the camper with space for a rooftop AC unit.
Beautiful
Love your build but u need to turn the connections 90° and leave a drip loop otherwise water will drip down the cables and inside your camper also take the screws out and put a dab of silicone to stop water
Very nice setup! Hopefully your tow vehicle won't throw a rock up and damage any of your solar cells.
Would of likes to see the wires ran and hidden more. But I don’t even know if you had it planned before finishing the inside first. Hope it works great for you
nice build
congrats on getting your power on there! this thing keeps looking more and more awesome! i hate that i have to even suggest this and i thought awhile about even saying anything... but here we go- with so much of your wiring being outside the camper, i would maybe buy something to cover it further so that no one clips it off... someone clipped off my wiring in a bunch of places to steal the wiring maybe for copper? it really sucked. i then ran almost everything inside after except on the roof right by the panels... but i've been thinking about ways to cover it to keep it outside... you know those decorative snap in tubes that cover wires on walls by desks and behind tvs etc? it is just plastic that covers the wires that you can take on and off... i'm wondering if something like that would work to help detour assholes? and hopefully your neighborhood doesn't have this issue... it was when it was parked in my yard, not on a trip that it happened to me. anyway, grain of salt and all that. best of luck and happy holidays!
Looks great!!
Thanks!
Don't forget to use some Dicor Lap sealant on top (and under if you can) your screws. You may want to look into a Bluetti 2k+kwh portable battery (like your Jackery). They allow a much higher input voltage rate. And a large 1000W+ inverter.
What is that exterior made of on the camper section ?
Roll on bedliner
It may be better to wire the front two together and the top two together in parallel to optimize output. Then the angle ones work together in the morning of later afternoon and the top one will be more efficient midday. 👍🏻
Not a bad idea, thank you! I was worried about shading though. I've read when you write the panels in series if one ends up shaded then it reduces power output in all the other panels. Is that true? I heard some talk about bypass diodes to help solve it but I'm not sure. Still learning the ways of solar lol.
@@CodeBrownProductions yes that's true, since you don't have a huge system I would connect all in parallel as I did on my trailer with four Renogy panels. This will also work if and when you add a controller to charge 12 volt battery system.
John,
What type of air exchanger will you be using inside when you stay there for a few days or even overnight? Carbon monoxide and smoke detector are in order. I would suggest that you make provisions for a CB radio or GMRS radio which could easily fit under your desk with a slider. Nonetheless, you are quite creative so keep it up. Patrick.
Would paint the brackets and seal around screws. Like another said, want to make sure you have a cover for those panels. Hails, rocks, etc. They’ll be the first to get it. 🙈😎
Every screw hole and seam was sealed with silicone. Took me forever lol.
@@CodeBrownProductions when you get through you can come help me!😎👍🏼
I imagine u could build racks under the bottom of the trailer to hold your batteries.
I couldn’t see the connector pin very well in you video. Was there a space to slide the copper wire up into a “cup”? Normally the “winglets” are for clamping onto the insulation. Then you crimp the “cup” into the copper wire. Correct me if I’m wrong. Maybe Renergy connectors are different. Those winglets aren’t a good crimp.
Yes I agree.
In my profession I do a lot of wiring, installing terminals of all types. Those terminals I believe are designed to be crimped in the barrel, and the wings are for a lite crimp on the insulation, to add some extra support to prevent pulloutand wire breakage at the crimp.
If you start to experience low power output more than likely you will have broken wires or loose connections at the crimp that you did with the duckbill pliers.
A good pair of electricians pliers or sparkplug pliers usually have crimping dies that will work or come close to working.
Also you can find terminal crimping tools on Amazon for less than $25 that will do the job.
solar panels on the front angled section of the trailer severely limit their effectiveness to an hour or so a day. Then there's the fact they're facing the road when driving. They will get destroyed in winter conditions unless you've derived some cover for them.
The same concern holds true for any fixed panel installation. Depending on how he parks, he'll get plenty of power off those panels but, building a cover for the front panels is a must.
Strong Work!
Looks good
Thank you!
think about a couple of covers for the angled panels while you are driving otherwise you are gong to be cleaning bugs off of them after you get where you are going. Just a thought.
You should be adding clear silicone on all your screw holes
Already did
Got your card off my Jeep in Cheyenne....was already subscribed too....lol small world
Lol yeah I got your card so I thought I would return the favor! Love the channel good stuff. If you ever want to do a collab let me know!
@@CodeBrownProductions yes...Collab is good...we are going to EJS in March and some other events. We need to meet up.
Send me a friend request on Facebook...Steve Winchell
Hiya, I love the build, but those forward facing panels might get hit with debris/stones when travelling.. are you sure you shouldn't just have adjustable roof mounted panels..? Jeff from Scotland.
I really wanted something that I can set and forget. Having the front panel permanently mount will decrease output power but I've over paneled so I should be good.
@@CodeBrownProductions the whole combination looks brilliant. Well done!!
use 3m double side silicone tape between the panels and roof to weather proof the screw holes.😁
Good stuff.
I can't wait till your fine
Done
would be cool to have your door opening onto the deck area.
Consider a Mr. Cool split unit AC instead of a roof air conditioner. Much quieter and more efficient. You can even run on batteries.
I like your build why don’t you make a bracket for your solar panel so you can tip it to get full use of them
Consider work with 2 charge controllers since two of your solar-panels working in a fixed different direction...
Question - did you put anything under the mounts for the solar panels so that you wouldn’t get water seepage through the screw holes?
Yup, every single screw hole and mount on the camper was painstakingly sealed with clear silicone.
@@CodeBrownProductions - Thanks. Wasn’t sure if you went that route or some sort of self-sealing patch under the foot.
Really enjoying following your build!
What is the size of your trailer?
ContinuousResources sells solar panels from Hightec made in the US with 25yr warranty 200w for $185/shipped works out cheaper than 2 100w. Use a solar gland for running through roof, from the Amazon. Or a combiner box from a grey pvc outdoor electrical box. There's much cheaper noname panel mounts on the Amazon. 1.5-2w per AH of battery is a good start point
One can also use like a 300w panel mounted like an awning over windows/side on a hinge. Threaded rod can be used to make a prop rod. Lots of power on a small roof space
So like those two panels on slat? How are you going to protect them going down the road from rocks, pebbles, and hail stones. Those glass panels have my doubts.
One more question, how did you mount the camper to the trailer
Its bolted so the entire thing is removable if need be.
@@CodeBrownProductions did you bolt it thru the floor? It looks like you may have done something with the stake pockets ? Thank you !
Yup, just used the existing stake pockets
@@CodeBrownProductions Thank you. I am in the design stage as we speak. Mine is going to be the width of the trailer but 10ft deep.
Love it ! How long is your trailer bed ?
Just subbed. Like the build! Are you worried about the front facing panels getting damaged from road driving??
You've got such a sick rig man! Which Jackery battery do you use?
I have the new Jackery 300, trying to save up for bigger. But for now the 300 is working.
I don’t have access to a welder… What’s your opinion on framing it with 2x4’s ?
If built properly it would work. Modern RV are built with 1x1 wood paneled in-between the foam and aluminum sheeting.
Add some lithium ion Batteries like DIY Powerwalls that's gonna be a great idea as everyone do.....!
And I wish Sun will be Come for your next video lol 🤪👍
Nice!
Rock on
You might want to make a cover for the front mounted panels when in transit. That part of the vehicle gets lots of micro abrasion you don't see until it's too late. Towing my car behind RV without a windshield protector mounted destroyed the windshield. It was pitted so badly from road dust I kicked myself for not buying a windshield cover. The efficiency of the solar panels will be greatly degraded because the pitting will redirect the light.
I was worried about the same thing so ill prolly have to end up making a cover or something. I did buy higher end panels for the roof that are supposed to have stronger glass and be hail resistant. Hopefully that will help.
Just some simple plywood covers work fine and well! Maybe find a system to quick connect them on!
What length trailer are you using
22'
Not to be a negative Nancy but the reason your crimpers don't work on those connectors is because they are solder on the winglets are just to hold it while you fill the hole with solder
What are those hold downs rated at? Meaning how fast can you drive.
They are solid aluminum mounts and each mount has two lag screws with massive threads anchoring them down. I can almost hang off them lol
You can get a reversible fan and put that on the roof, it will suck air in or blow it out, in such a small space I don't think you need AC. Also the added height can be problematic and costly if misjudged, replacing a solar panel would be disappointing, replacing an AC unit would be heart breaking.
Why did u go with four 100 watt panel? Because you could have got one or two 325 watt panel that would produce lot more power....
I'm still debating adding solar to my 7 x14 cargo trailer build thanks for the video as far as a/c having spent the money and installed a roof top A/C I would suggest with your build that a rooftop is overkill,a Max aire fan thru the roof is cool but most importantly I would suggest a very small window A/C unit installed in the back wall of your camper with your talents you could box it in nicely and coat the box up with the bed liner.its true that roof top A/C units can be loud and for under a 100 dollars a 5000 btu A/C would freeze you out and also would be much easier on your genset.check out my build at our Homesteader cargo trailer build on youtube,I don't know how to leave a link.FYI I'm also a jeeper,a 1990 yj and a 2001 xj
The crimpers are about 15$ on Amazon. For future reference. Cheers
How long is the trailer
22
Cover up your wires on the front so nothing can damage them like a box of some sort and so no one can mess with them too
Have a drink or smoke a joint. Relax and settle down on the show in tail. Also ordered the adapter cable for the power bank yet made your own power cables with more of a hassle connector. Learn how to solder and keep a cordless solder open or at least a butane iron or at least a mini pocket torch other uses to plus don’t forget solder just in case you have a road side repair. Don’t forget 3m super 33 tape and some heat shrink
I would be worried about the panels on the front slope with rocks and road debris
I'm probably gonna make a cover for them
I left a comment on your last video of this build, I hope you can catch it, if not I'll share it with you elsewhere again later...
🦇
You might want to do 2x2 panels instead of 4x1 into the charger, due to shade problems. More bang for buck
one last thing, they're spendy but buy lith batts.
Yep, totally agree with Lithium for your application. Small space limitiations...they'd be perfect.
100% agreed, LifePo4 or the like. They are definitely costly, but its cheaper than buying AGM or deep cycles that you'll be replacing in a few years for lithium anyway!
Also either remove while driving or have covers for them you’d truck kicks up crap. Also make sure your connections are also in so other little housing box just to keep them protected plus the sun will kill all plastics and a little house is cheap and easy to install compared to installing we plugs
Add some dialect grease inside the connections and behind the rigger washers to keep seals fresh and keep out corrosion not to prevent a bad connection.
Instead of a ac unit why not a mini-split and put it out the back side above your bed?
A little further along watching this: you have 400 watts of solar, meaning as much as 33 amps (at 12 VDC) going into that little unit, thru that small cable. Again, as a long time solar guy, I would have not bought that "plug and play" unit, but a separate MPPT controller, daisy chained those panels, and then even 14 gauge wire would have been adequate since 400 watts at 80 volts is only 5+ amps! Then, down stream from the MPPT charge controller, I'd have a simple power center, with DC rated breakers that also function as a switch. From there to the battery, something from an outfit like this :dakotalithium.com/rv-camper-deep-cycle-lithium-replacement-house-battery-batteries/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_qD_BRDiARIsANjZ2LBrXGJ4q_mkd2MMDY71xOZto_9MpOXfW3968CiZZ5a6lEduRWQZUlYaAh7WEALw_wcB Then from the battery to a DC power center, again breakered/switched, to your DC loads, and with a lead to a 120 VAC inverter for AC power. Hey you did good for the first time, 400 watts is a a lot of power for that size camper, ANY solar is better then none! One more thing, you may be exceeding the amount of input power that little unit can handle. It will protect itself by shunting the power, but as a result you won't get what you should. I don't know the amp size of the little battery inside of that thing, but anything more then about 20% of that is wasted, as it won't accept it.
"All nice and water proof." Didn't notice how you sealed your panel installation screws. You won't see the leaks until it is too late. Ounce of prevention and all.
Sealant/silicone caulk needed for those screws👍😉
When I was installing solar panels on RV's (did it for 30 years) I used a (not sure what the tech term is) a rubber bushing with an embedded brass nut. You drill a half inch hole, which is a snug fit for the bushing, push it in while wiggling (it, not you), and then a 1/4" bolt (via the solar panel stand off bracket, the higher the better, cooler/more air flow means more power) that, once engaged into the rubber bushing, would mechanically squish it up against the inside of the roof, making a water tight (no complaints, ever) and mechanically sound connection. JUST for the heck of it, I'd also dab a little good sealant over the fitting.
@@portnuefflyer Those are called "wellnuts", no kidding. Google it.
I don't know how your budget looks like the previous comment allows you to adjust to the light condions
Biochemist here. Use LiFePO4 batteries
Looks great 👍🏻🍺🍺🍺🍺ok 👌🏼🔥🤠🔥Camping Russ out
Hid the wires under the panels so you can't see it