Range Rover P38 # 058 - Foot Rest - Tailgate Button Override - Central Locking Receiver Delete
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2018
- So what do you do if your right (passenger) door actuator is starting to act up? You can replace it or try to fix it:
• Video
If fixing it doesn't help the you can do like me and install an override toggle switch on your dashboard (or someplace else). It will allow you to send the unlocked signal (actually just grounding) to the tailgate button so that it operates independently of the door locks. When the car is unlocked the right side front actutator is supposed to send a ground signal to the tailgate button to enable it to complete the circuit for the tailgate motor to operate.
drive.google.com/open?id=1lYY...
drive.google.com/open?id=1nCw...
All of this was discussed in details in video # 17:
• Video
Anyways, I'm cutting the GR (Green / Red) wire at pin 9 so that I can install a switch to toggle between the original wiring, or providing constant ground signal (from Black pin 1 or 2) to the tailgate button. See this diagram:
drive.google.com/open?id=1I-Z...
While in there I'm removing the original RF central locking receiver since the keyfob's are dead and I've installed a 3rd party system intead. See video # 30:
• Video
I'm also checking the sunroof drain. There is another on the left side as well, and I'll get to that at a later time.
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Thanks for watching, and I hope you found this video interesting. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you my friend, regards from California
Information i can use. Great 👍🏻 video
Nice video, hope for more
Almost done with the garage foundation so I hope to put out more content real soon. Thanks for watching!
Work On P38 Hola me podría mandar los pasos a seguir para conectar un cierre centralizado a un range rover p38 e castellano. Gracias
Great solution to the boot lid not opening always, didnt quite understand the switch which you showed on here, its got three terminals. Does the switch only give continuity to two pins and when you flick it over its to the other two pins? but which ones? what happens if i just cut into the black wire and green/red and not use a switch, with the door always open even when locked?
Thanks Mr Norway, where is the 12v supply derived from ? Thanks
Keep the video's coming 👍
I have a question.
First thank you for all of your very useful P38 videos...
My problem is that my speedometer all of a sudden started reading inaccurate. When I'm driving 50 mph my speedo reads 25 mph half the actual speed I'm going. How do i troubleshoot n fix my problem ???
Please n thank you ...
Hi again John. Well I always suggest getting some kind of diagnostic equipment to start there. You can watch the live data for vehicle speed through the engine management computer and see if the data still shows half speed (which I'm pretty sure it will). Maybe intermittent or faulty speed sender unit. You could always try to piggy back it and check the signal with something like an oscilloscope to try to determine what the sender is output is like. Also you could compare the speed input and the speed output from the BeCM to the cluster and see if something happens to the signal path from the sender, via the engine computer, BeCM and to the cluster. Since it's just half I doubt the signal is altered though, and lean towards the sensor. Thanks for watching and good luck troubleshooting!
Is the reason for adding a bypass because the button in the trunk lid has failed. Would replacing the button in the trunk lid actually fix it or is there an underlying problem somewhere else,, for example the output from the computer central lock might be failing.
Hi Murray. Yes, the button has intermittent bad connections and I haven't had time to investigate opening it and trying to clean it. Replacing the button would fix my issue. Thanks for watching!
how about a stuck glove box , any tricks to open it without breaking the lid?
Push up them button press
Amigos o meu carro perdeu corrente não está a multiplicar
Have you a link to the switch you have used?
Sorry David. I bought them off of eBay a long time ago. Should be pretty easy to locate similar switches. Thanks for watching!
We have created a Range Rover P38 group on FaceBook, WHAT another one i hear you say? Well we set out to try and do something a little different and that is to do things right.! Gone are the wannabe armchair engineers and the trolls that seem to hinder most groups and in will be an admin team that consist of guys who knwo what they are on about and can navigate their way around RAVE to come up with solutions to problems. Its a very fresh group, and its very early days, but with your help we will get there, and not only are we looking for new members, we are looking for experienced guys to join the admin team and help build the group. We can be found here.... facebook.com/groups/925014894688556/
Thanks... another fix for a stupid (BMW complication of design) Land Rover problem. So now you have defeated another totally unnecessary frill applied to basically a solid and rugged truck.... it is very important the door locks unlock for the owner. And, if you have a flat or need a tool from the back without doing this may be crawling over seats and removing an 40 Kg spare through the passenger compartment... yep it takes time to fix it to be practical. It may sound all nice in the show room but 99.7% of owners cannot operate their own vehicle locks, thereafter, and the outrageously priced service department is NEEDED to operate the locks.
I have actually considered adapting an old 1977-1985 Mercedes Benz W123 series vacuum lock system...
Note doing this inserts the remote fob operation and makes it necessary to use the actual key. Here is another video giving a intermediate solution. How this works is decreases the "range" or distance the fob will work to a couple feet from the Right Rear Corner of the car... th-cam.com/video/KvU8wM9gQxY/w-d-xo.html
Here is another video on the Body Control Computer... th-cam.com/video/D3uLZoQ-DEY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Kimball. I've seen these before but appreciate the tips. Others here might find them useful too. I removed my receiver since I installed a 3rd party remote control instead since my original FOBs and/or receiver were dead anyways. Sounds like an interesting plan to convert it to vacuum. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Would be interesting to see.
Work On P38 thanks for the kind words. I have decided against the M-Benz vacuum locks due to the need to convert the door handles possibly requiring body / paint work. But the cost of the components even new for a W123 series M-Benz locking system is very cheap compared to a Range Rover P38 locking system component.
I have a left hand drive car... so you know. So considering all things I decided to add a right hand drive door handle and actuator to the right hand passenger door with a second key lock, "keyed" or fitted to the original key. Then parallel together the wiring from the two actuators [Left door and Right door] together to connect to both to the BeCM. Why parallel the wires:
As the car ages the wiring resistances go up, particularly in any weather exposed wires due to insulation break down and corrosion internally of the copper conductor, this causing problems in voltage sensitive circuits like those supplying signals to the BeCM. Well we could all rewire the car every few years to solve this but this is impractical. By paralleling the wires electrically one reduces resistance by [assuming dc power and two resistances of two devices connections paralleled together] about 1/2 see calculator www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/ this means the doubled up actuators wiring reduces resistance and thereby decreases the voltage drop in the signals between the computer and actuators, remembering the actuators complete or open a circuit through ground, with ground needed for circuit completion continuity. As the old wiring, connections and batteries older than about 6 months and all the imperfections in the old system increased the resistance over time, thereby, according to the equation, this increases voltage drop across the wiring system between the door actuators and BeCM, remembering; [V]= Current in Amps [I] X Resistance in Ohms [R]. One can see the decrease in resistance provided by the paralleled actuators connections to the BeCM wiring will make up for it providing a stronger signal either way when the Fob was used. Would it be too much control signal strength? I doubt it, as you know the variance of resistances of the various terminals of the door actuator to BeCM have wide tolerance of resistance values so some rough calculations show I would not be hurting anything. Besides when one uses the key in the door, only one door actuator would be sending a signal to the BeCM, due to the oft side door key not operating the actuator on that side, meaning there would not be parallel electrical connection in that scenario, as both door actuators have not been operated or signaled, so the wiring resistance issue would remain as if the the car did not have the parallel actuator control wiring. But... in the alternative, if the fob were used the parallel wiring would reduce the resistance and decrease voltage drop in the system.
Or, so I think.
I have all the parts in house now so after doing some a)corrosion correction and protection under the car, b) rebuilding the suspension [new bushes, joints, steering links, shocks and steering damper], c) new brakes and then this d) door lock issue on the list with be forth in line.
Sorry when I wrote that last comment last night it was late and I got increase and decrease mixed up... in the voltage drops... getting old you know. I really wish I could modify the car to get rid of the electronic controls, considering it's a rugged off-road vehicle and computers/electronics tend to go bad at the worst time. But when it comes down to it we live in the electronic and information age. Though we base our lives on technology that requires rare earth elements, clean room, sophisticated and robotic manufacture, and highly trained technicians/specialized test equip/plug and play parts for repair. So we have based our very lives and civilization on fragile technology that could if given even a slight push extinguish our existence, despite the benefits we derive from it.