Gluing Down Metal Braid - Lakeside Raceway Build Part 7
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2023
- This is a bit of a long one, sorry. We first have to get the wood surface painted. Then once the 3 coats are dry, the metal woven braid that carries electricity to the cars must be carefully glued into place, with two strips per lane. Whew. Oh, and we get to make another jig! So, get your cup of coffee refilled and join me.
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This collection of videos You did are killer! I have watched everyone. I have picked up a bunch of great ideas. Thanks for sharing..
Pat, thanks so much! I had lots of fun! Did a few IROC slot car videos also recently.
It was just a thought, certainly not criticizing, I really like your track building series. Great videos 👍👍👍👍
Dennis, you had a great suggestion. If I had more experience with the pre-taped braid, that would totally be the way to go. So much easier to apply than the contact cement. I guess I was too nervous to try a new product. The cement I understand and have used it for many projects, formica laminates, etc. Plus the pro track builder I know only uses the cement. That being said, I built a track using the copper tape instead of braid, and that worked out great. No problems lifting or peeling off at all. Glad the series was interesting.
Thank you for sharing. I would take the time to add the braid like you did Stan, looks and performs a whole lot better than the tape. You have a beautiful track.🏁🏎🏎🏎👍
Thanks! It does run smoother than on plastic track.
Loving this series,very informative! Well done!
Thank you, Keith!
This series has been amazing. I love how you explain and show the detail in each step along the way. I have often wondered how feasible it would be to incorporate a slot car type track in my O-scale train layout. I've seen the chain/magnet driven road systems in Europe, but thought a slot car type track would be much cooler. :)
Thank you! So glad this series has been helpful. It's been a fun build. I enjoy going slow with my trains, and fast with my slot cars! 🤣
I've always had a love affair with slots and considered building my own track
I was curious to see how you'd attach the braid - I envisioned that I'd have to create
a 'braid jig" that sat in the slot guided by rollers that would force the braid down with consistent pressure
and keep it perfectly aligned ..but it looks like your method was just as effective and perhaps the better approach..
enjoying the construction details!
Thanks much! So, there are a few accepted ways of putting down the braid. I think the easiest way is to buy the braid with a strip of adhesive already on it with a paper backing. You just make sure the slot is clean and then pull off the paper and push it down into place. On a previous track, I used 1 mm thick copper tape which has an adhesive back on it. That is very inexpensive and fairly mess-free as well, and is very conductive. Although for the copper tape application I did fashion a jig with a spool on it and a pin to follow the slot as I put down the tape. On this track I went 'old school' and used contact cement. No matter which way you go, try and resist the temptation to pull the braid really tight as you lay it down. You don't want that sort of tension stretch into the braid or tape as it will be trying to pull itself loose over time. The braid or tape should be smooth of course, but not under compression or tension. Have fun!
My goodness what a detailed, tedious project. And yes, a faithful friend to stick through all of that with you! As I was watching that I thought of that old Beldin microphone cable I think it was 84, 12, 8212 something like that, they used to make microphone cables out of that(probly still do). Do you recall making or fixing mic cables up at WMBI years ago? Anyway, sometimes I would strip the braided shield out to get the braided Strips like you had there.
Fortunately, you can buy it now on a real like that. The copper strip a good idea, but I would guess the braided shield would be more of a burnishing type action on the car contacts. What a job. Great work great patience.
looking forward to seeing those cars fly around the track.
Hey Scott! When I first started working part time at the station while in school, I would get up early and do the news for the morning drive show, then in the evening I was working for Ron Kinsie in the tech group. This was during the push from mono to stereo for all the wiring. The control room had just moved back downtown from Addison. I became the 'patch panel' guy, soldering in the solid busses and all the jumpers for all the racks! Good 'ol Ron! "Once in the red every 8 seconds" or something like that!
@@StanFerris wow Stan that’s so cool to hear! Yeah, they were out of the Addison for years for a long time. Patch bay wiring, it so tedious sort of like laying down braid for a race track. And Ron Kinsey what a dear man I always appreciated him, his kind and quiet spirit. I worked for years with Bob, Cathimer and Hank Voss in the transmitter side. Don’t know if you ever heard, but I lived at the transmitter, moved in that building and 77 and lived there for 18 years with my family. The transmitter maintenance tower work and cut a lot of grass. Those were great days that we both had the experience with radio and particularly moody. But patchbay wiring was probably the most tedious work.
And now that you mention it, I do recall you, your voice on the air in the newsroom. Fun days! Thanks for the update
Your videos are fun to watch - I think you should have a T shirt made that says Dave? Dave's Not Here. (a throwback to early) Cheech - Chong tapes & video... BTW have to done a 2 part track(don't know what else to call it) An HO and a 1/24th scale on the same filed/track surface?
I have not done a two scale sizes track. Have you tried one?
No I haven't but after looking at all your videos I am thinking I like to try
@@StanFerris
Nicely done. I was wondering if you were going to mention an alternative to the wire brade. Our large track was done using the wire brade, but I made a short test track and used the copper foil. Can't wait to see what the electronics looks like these days. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks Larry! Next episode is the wiring.
You said you have used both the wire brad and copper foil? Would you say there’s much of a difference?
@@raymondharding4016This was in the '60s so I don't remember too much about it. The foil came with an adhesive backing, but I do remember it did not hold that well. The braided wire was much more flexible and easier to lay down in the shape turns. Sorry I can't be much more help. It was a long time ago.
🤠
Hey Stan! I'm building a small track for my school project. Quick question: do you think I should use a primer before painting? It's going to be an indoor track, not in use for too long. Also, would regular acrylic paint be good enough? Your advice would be super helpful for my project. Thanks!!
I have not used a separate primer on the wood tracks I have built, and have never had any problems. But, I have used water-based house paint that is adhesive enough not to need primer according to the label ("paint & primer"). If you are budget conscious, you can often find cans of brand-new paint for a real discount at the big stores that were mixed but the customer didn't want, so they have to get rid of it. If it is a display-only track that will not see much racing or chemicals, then almost any paint will do for a short time. Have fun with your school project!
Learning a lot. One thing I don't understand: you put metal braid on the track, but the cars are also metal braid, isn't braid on braid going to scratch on the long run?
Great question! The braid on the track is glued down securely and is very flat and smooth. The pickup braid on the guide is fastened only at one end and is about 1/2" long or so, and is a bit of a lever with only gentle downward pressure. The track braid will easily last 10 - 20 years depending upon use. The short pickup braid pieces get frayed on the open end and get replaced now and then. I have a number of cars and have only replaced the guide braid on a couple of them.
@@StanFerris That’s way more durable that what I would have thought ! Pretty awesome. I also saw later in the video that you gave another tip with the copper adhesive. I learned a lot watching those videos thanks!
Even the 1 mm copper tape holds up quite well.
I've seen others use a stickyback type of braid.Is this method superior, or why did you choose it. Thanks
I should have watched whole video got my answer lol.
Thanks for checking out the videos. There are nine in this series-- so only a few have survived until the end! 🤣 Yes, the braid can be purchased with an adhesive back which should work ok. The first wood track I built used 1 mil adhesive copper tape instead of braid, and I had no real issues of it peeling off.
Should have bought pre taped braid
One member of our club used that. A bit harder to do repairs, but seemed to work. He ended up selling the track, so I don't know if it held up long term or not. Less messy to apply for sure!
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