Hi Mike! Thanks for the videos! I am starting my 6 thru 10 coats of varnish. At what coat do I fill seams and how many coats over seams? Painting white last.
Mike, Thank you for sharing some great videos. They have really helped me with the finishing process of my first boat restoration. How long do you wait after varnish application before you install the tape? How long do you wait for the caulking to cure before putting on the the next coat of varnish? Thanks again for your help.
I'm in the process of varnishing decks on a early Milocraft 14. 20 coats of varnish and I applied black sikaflex to the seams and has cured for 4 weeks now. The trouble I'm having is when I apply vanish over the sikaflex the varnish does not cure, even after 2 weeks stays sticky on the sikaflex but cures normal on the previously varnished wood. Any input on this. Don from Michigan
I am not sure on this because we have only used SikaFlex Lot 291 on the seams and never black. I think some of the SikaFlex products are paintable and some are not. I would try to let it dry a bit longer and see what happens. If not you may need to remove it and use a different product. Not sure why it happened but let us know how it works out. Thanks for watching and hope this helps.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thanks mike, removing it isn't a option so I'm looking for something to seal the sikaflex with. I've bought 3 boats out of Traverse city, beautiful town. Don from Michigan
I'm about to get to this stage with my 1954 Chris Craft; do you do any varnish before the caulking or to do this process on the freshly stained wood? Thanks.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks thanks for getting back with me. Caulking near the end of varnishing, how do you keep all the other varnish and epoxy from getting in the grooves? I have all new Philippine Mahogany with 1/8 gap between them. The new 5/16 x 2.0 inch boards are glued (System Three G-2) on to the old deck. Anyway, any suggestions? Thanks.
@@raycowan1387 You want the varnish to go into and over the grooves. The compound doesn't have any UV protectent so it help it last longer as well as to look good being all coated with varnish.
Hi Mike I really enjoy seeing what your working on next. You get some neat stuff in there. Thanks for your quick response to my last question, this is a follow up/continuation of it. I've gotten most of the supplies you recommended , a few yet to arrive. I have a few more questions if you don't mind. The boat is a1930 CC 24' triple. The boat has 9 coats of varnish that were applied last Jan. I'm about done sanding and scuffing. I'd like to do 2-3 more coats now and then 1-2 more next spring. I'm not varnishing the sealing boards at this time, just the hull sides, deck, dash and cockpit combing. How much varnish should i expect to use for 1 coat. After waiting a day or 2 can I put another coat over the previous one or do I need to scuff/sand between coats? In your video it sounded like you scuffed and then applied the last 2 coats. If you recommend scuffing/sanding in between how long should I wait for the last coat to harden. Thanks again Jeff
So, the process that we use if the boat is stained and ready for the varnish process goes something like this. We apply 18 to 20 coats on a hull. We apply 2 coats of sealer in one day without scuffing or sanding. We then scuff the boat with a maroon scotch brit pad #07747 and we do this in between ever coat of varnish applied. We sand on coat 5, 10 and 15 with 320 grit. The first sand we just sand lightly and the scotch brit the finish before applying another coat. At 10 we sand it flatter and then 15 we sand flat. The goal is to leave as mush varnish on the boat as possible. A coat on a 24' if it is just the hull will use about a full can of varnish. Hope this help and thanks for watching.
Varnish over the seams don't make them open up its the movement of the boards on the deck. It mostly happens to the live seams which is the edges of the planks.
Hi mike ! Love the videos and thank you foe sharing! I have one caulk line on my 1958 century resorter that is cracking , but All the rest look great. Do I need to get all the old caulk out of the seam or is it possible to run a new line of caulk over it and fill in the nasty looking line ? Sorry for the dumb question, new to this hobby! Thanks again
No dumb questions. You can just fill it. Tape on both side and squeze some caulk in the and then flatten it out pushing it into the seam, then remove the tape. It should be fine. Thanks for watching!
Mike good info. I've just come upon your site. I'm to the point on my 1930 CC triple that it's all caulked, i used the same process you described. I've got 9 coats of varnish that were put down a year ago by a local resto shop. Now that the varnish has had a chance to shrink I'd like to put 3-4 more coats on and hopefully call it done. What varnish do you like for the final coats. I'm reluctant to ask the other shop what he used as he wanted $3500.00 for the final coats, I'm going to do them my self. Do you have any videos showing the varnishing process. Thanks for help
Jeff, Thanks for watching. Here is a video that I made about going over old varnish that may help you. The varnish we use is the Pettit Captians Varnish. It flows very well right out of the can. We will be making many more videos on varnishing but not until we get that process on the restorations we have now. th-cam.com/video/tXfws94Gako/w-d-xo.html
Wooden boats are sure beautiful, but man, boats already take huge piles of money, why increase the maintenance factor? I would rather be out there cruising or sailing, even fishing with a boat that doesn't take so much money and time.
A true professional makes it SEAM so easy! 😉 Great video!
It's enjoyable to see a craftsman enjoy his work! Thank you.
Our pleasure!
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks do you have a business name? Where on earth are you located? Thank you for responding
I own Maritime Classics in Traverse City, Michigan
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thank you will perhaps msg you direct! Thanks again
Sure
Thanks a lot for you explanation dear
THANKS AGAIN MIKE.
Thanks. Great video
Do paint over the mahogany caulking with white paint? If so what paint do you recommend?
Super helpful technique. To make the grooves, do you do those with a router or table saw?
We use the table saw most of the time. We have had to cut new ones on a deck with the router but it takes more time doing it that way.
Hi Mike! Thanks for the videos! I am starting my 6 thru 10 coats of varnish. At what coat do I fill seams and how many coats over seams? Painting white last.
Mike,
Thank you for sharing some great videos. They have really helped me with the finishing process of my first boat restoration. How long do you wait after varnish application before you install the tape? How long do you wait for the caulking to cure before putting on the the next coat of varnish? Thanks again for your help.
Over a weekend if we time it right, but about 2-3 days. Before varnishing I like to wait at least 3 days.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thanks for the information.
I'm in the process of varnishing decks on a early Milocraft 14.
20 coats of varnish and I applied black sikaflex to the seams and has cured for 4 weeks now.
The trouble I'm having is when I apply vanish over the sikaflex the varnish does not cure, even after 2 weeks stays sticky on the sikaflex but cures normal on the previously varnished wood.
Any input on this.
Don from Michigan
I am not sure on this because we have only used SikaFlex Lot 291 on the seams and never black. I think some of the SikaFlex products are paintable and some are not. I would try to let it dry a bit longer and see what happens. If not you may need to remove it and use a different product. Not sure why it happened but let us know how it works out. Thanks for watching and hope this helps.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thanks mike, removing it isn't a option so I'm looking for something to seal the sikaflex with.
I've bought 3 boats out of Traverse city, beautiful town.
Don from Michigan
I'm about to get to this stage with my 1954 Chris Craft; do you do any varnish before the caulking or to do this process on the freshly stained wood? Thanks.
We fill the seams just before our final 4 to 7 coats so the seams don't fill up with varnish and become flat.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks thanks for getting back with me. Caulking near the end of varnishing, how do you keep all the other varnish and epoxy from getting in the grooves? I have all new Philippine Mahogany with 1/8 gap between them. The new 5/16 x 2.0 inch boards are glued (System Three G-2) on to the old deck. Anyway, any suggestions? Thanks.
@@raycowan1387 You want the varnish to go into and over the grooves. The compound doesn't have any UV protectent so it help it last longer as well as to look good being all coated with varnish.
Hi Mike
I really enjoy seeing what your working on next. You get some neat stuff in there.
Thanks for your quick response to my last question, this is a follow up/continuation of it.
I've gotten most of the supplies you recommended , a few yet to arrive.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind.
The boat is a1930 CC 24' triple.
The boat has 9 coats of varnish that were applied last Jan.
I'm about done sanding and scuffing.
I'd like to do 2-3 more coats now and then 1-2 more next spring. I'm not varnishing the sealing boards at this time, just the hull sides, deck, dash and cockpit combing.
How much varnish should i expect to use for 1 coat.
After waiting a day or 2 can I put another coat over the previous one or do I need to scuff/sand between coats? In your video it sounded like you scuffed and then applied the last 2 coats.
If you recommend scuffing/sanding in between how long should I wait for the last coat to harden.
Thanks again
Jeff
So, the process that we use if the boat is stained and ready for the varnish process goes something like this. We apply 18 to 20 coats on a hull. We apply 2 coats of sealer in one day without scuffing or sanding. We then scuff the boat with a maroon scotch brit pad #07747 and we do this in between ever coat of varnish applied. We sand on coat 5, 10 and 15 with 320 grit. The first sand we just sand lightly and the scotch brit the finish before applying another coat. At 10 we sand it flatter and then 15 we sand flat. The goal is to leave as mush varnish on the boat as possible. A coat on a 24' if it is just the hull will use about a full can of varnish. Hope this help and thanks for watching.
Steve Buzzell. What is the brand of the brown Mahogany Caulking. Like your TH-cam’s. Thanks
Depending on what your doing, we use mahogany SikaFlex Lot291 for deck seam and 3M 5200 mahogany for new bottoms and gluing down planks.
I am hearing do and don't when it comes to vanishing over filled deck seams due to possible cracking of the varnish. What is your experience?
It's actually mahogany color when it's put into the seams and then the varnish turns it a bit brown. We use SikaFlex Lot291 for our seams.
Varnish over the seams don't make them open up its the movement of the boards on the deck. It mostly happens to the live seams which is the edges of the planks.
Good video. What type of caulk did you use? Thanks.
We use SikaFlex Lot291 mahogany color on all seams. Thanks for watching!
Hi mike ! Love the videos and thank you foe sharing! I have one caulk line on my 1958 century resorter that is cracking , but All the rest look great. Do I need to get all the old caulk out of the seam or is it possible to run a new line of caulk over it and fill in the nasty looking line ? Sorry for the dumb question, new to this hobby!
Thanks again
No dumb questions. You can just fill it. Tape on both side and squeze some caulk in the and then flatten it out pushing it into the seam, then remove the tape. It should be fine. Thanks for watching!
Mike good info. I've just come upon your site. I'm to the point on my 1930 CC triple that it's all caulked, i used the same process you described. I've got 9 coats of varnish that were put down a year ago by a local resto shop. Now that the varnish has had a chance to shrink I'd like to put 3-4 more coats on and hopefully call it done. What varnish do you like for the final coats. I'm reluctant to ask the other shop what he used as he wanted $3500.00 for the final coats, I'm going to do them my self.
Do you have any videos showing the varnishing process.
Thanks for help
Jeff, Thanks for watching. Here is a video that I made about going over old varnish that may help you. The varnish we use is the Pettit Captians Varnish. It flows very well right out of the can. We will be making many more videos on varnishing but not until we get that process on the restorations we have now. th-cam.com/video/tXfws94Gako/w-d-xo.html
Im surprised you didnt push the gun. Instead you pulled it. Pushing pushes it deeper, pulling it just kinda lays on top.
Im surprised.
How can I text you some pictures of a boat or two
You can send them to www.maritimeclassics7031@gmail.com
I did it too. This is what I used Woodglut designs for
Wooden boats are sure beautiful, but man, boats already take huge piles of money, why increase the maintenance factor? I would rather be out there cruising or sailing, even fishing with a boat that doesn't take so much money and time.