this is exactly the one I needed, re-did my tiller last year or the year before but it failed, I've been reading and watching 7 different opinions from 5 different experts, but this finally convinced me to use the penetrating epoxy undercoat method. thank you so much!
Always a pleasure to listen and learn from someone who takes time out of their day to educate others. Thanks for the incredible video. I will be applying this knowledge to a five foot hull of my USS Missouri Scale RC Model. Thanks for the knowledge!
I'm sure the customers must love the work they get back from this guy but tis a shame sometimes that you just don't understand the work and skill that goes in to such a simple job. incredible work
I love his measuring system,he always has the graduated cups on hand but you can tell he's been at it for years because of the nail in the coffee cup trick ;)
You are a real craftsmen sir.... I am thinking about renovating a 42’ Owen’s Aruba yacht..... wood hull.... I will use your videos as a source of info. Pray for me it is a huge task.
oh buddy THANK you!! ive been meaning to get stuck into my wood trim on my boat but i was worried because it has the same problem of deep checking. will DEFINITLY do this to mine before varnishing.
I re-finished - or I should say, restored the rudder/tiller on an old Montgomery 17. It had been badly neglected for mayyears prior to me buying the boat, and the cracking at the tip of the rudder was pretty bad, not to mention the checking. Iusded MAS epoxies, but any good brand will do. Thinned with de-natured alcohol, I applied two soaking coats and sanded after the second. The third coat I used half the alcohol and I tipped cross grain to better fill the checking and cracks. After 5 coats of UV varnish, and 5 coats of yacht white below the waterline, it turned out absolutely stunning. Like glass. Way better than it needed to be. If you do this, try tipping a thicker coat cross grain as a base for your final finish.
Great video of your thinking and process! Thank you. What brand or kind of "varnish" do you recommend for this kind of use? I'm making new wooden seats and finishing them for use in a vintage boat as well. I agree with the thinned epoxy for a waterproofing.
My supplier of epoxy and polyurethanes Norglass has told me directly, "we can't put enough UV protection in our varnishes to protect epoxy seals underneath. Only use these sealers under paint." Is this just a reflexion of the intensity of the UV in Australia, or does to Total Boat product adopt another approach?Thank you for the videos, I find them most instructive.
Well you don’t have to scrap everything. His re-use of the old wood will work great. The seat didn’t need to go to the scrapper as much as you love the scrapper. His initial prep with the scraper was very time efficient and require little cleanup because scraping doesn’t make dust. Saved from the scrapper!
I too use Total Boat epoxy. (clear) When I talked to them they (Jack) suggested I use acetone vs thinner. He said that sometimes the epoxy will harden before the thinner completely evaporates causing problems. Add the acetone to the resin until it's the consistency you want then add the hardener and mix. But, he said his first preference for thinning it is to just heat both parts in a double boiler type set up instead.
Wonderful video. Could you instruct us on what angle you use to sharpen the blade AND the planer, I've never been able to conquer using one, setting the blade, etc, and then when I saw you go against the grain I was totally amazed, I didn't know you could do that. Great Job Sir.
I used some Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy on the legs of a picnic table I made. Hopefully they will last a long time. Time will tell. I DID learn that a quart of that stuff goes a long way.
Really great video, thanks so much! Question, I’m refinishing the wood on my 13” Whaler and would like to stain the mahogany wood prior to applying varnish. Because the seats have all the same issues as shown in the video I’d like to seal the wood as well. Can the liquid epoxy, stain and varnish all be used together? And would the stain follow the epoxy or would the epoxy follow the stain?
I have used Norglass paint on my last boat here in Australia was going to try there epoxy but they never bothered to reply to my emails so going some where else is that the best to put on a Bare timber hull
Hello,I recently bought a Sturdee dory and I am attempting to restore it. Could you please show me how to secure or anchor the wooden bench seat to the boat. I hope you understand what I am talking about. thanks very much. please reponse
I had a smaller bilge board I threw in the oven for 30 minutes at the lowest setting and the wood sucked in the epoxy to the point that the wood was dry on the surface in a few spots. With something larger like that do you think I'd get the same results with a heat gun?
you have to stain bare wood. then epoxy over the top of that BUT make sure your stain is compatible with the epoxy you are using. best to check with the mfg of the epoxy.
I usually have 5 coats of varnish on my Toe rails (approx. 1"inch wide). I do get sun damage and checking after a while. I try to lightly sand them and add a coat of varnish at the beginning of the season. Should I use the penetrating epoxy on the top of the toe rails only or do I have to do the whole toe rail. If I only do the top, will I be able to see the change in no epoxy vs. varnish only? Nice videos, I really appreciate them.
Leo Corsetti Should try using Polythane 1005, it's 100% UV resistant and will not scratch, crack, stain, blush or peel. It also cures in one day. Only one facility in the country manufactures this product, Google it.
+Leo Corsetti The whole thing. And mop it on (liberally).But no point in putting it on over any kind of finish, only wood. I've never tried leaving part of a piece of wood uncoated when using PE. We use alot of Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the west coast.You can thin regular epoxy and call it penetrating epoxy, but it is Not. I almost always use Z-spar Petit BROWN Mahogany (oil base filler)stain under varnish, except it would look ridiculous on lighter woods like ash, oak etc, that is, the interior frames of this dinghy are what they should be. The reason I'm mentioning it is that All the pieces that you are varnishing will then be the same color, make all your neighbors go "WOW!",and they will be darker, which I believe greatly improves the overall UV resistance. Always do at least three sessions of stain to get the best results, and this is the kind of stain that you wipe down right after applying, before it dries. You will notice that really hard woods don't take to staining like teak or phillipine mahogany, and so PE will make the stain lighter colored too. Digression! Thanks. PS: We use alot of Gloss Clear Cetol, yeah it's got a high yuck factor, it stays kinda gummy for a Long Time, but boy does it Last! If you gotta have that varnish feel and smell, skip the cetol.
+Chris Esposito is there really, really such a thing as 100% uv products. Over the last 20yrs companies seem to put that on their labels but I am yet to see one that has offeres any greater protection than layering properly. We stuck two pieces of sealed the varnished planks outside boat shead in direct sunlight one just averaged price varnish 3 diffrent brands. the second with 3 branda of what was classed as 100% UV. And the results were as we had all predicted. The claim of 100% UV resistance was a bunch of baloney. Remember wood boats have been built for 100s of years the majority with really cheap materials but are constantly replying varnishes and paints and atill about. Up keep is the thing that counts stay ontop of it and do it properly and you'll be surprised at how much money is wasted on product names abd claims.
Tommy Chong’s screw underneath so you can finish the entire project at one time idea is absolutely brilliant. I can’t believe How many two day projects that would’ve cut in half.
Hello, sir. I have seen some of your videos already as I like random woodworking content. I am an instrument repairer and maker andnI was challenged by a friend who owns a house at the lake to take care of his wooden boat, maybe 6ft long, made entirely out of oak, the lumber is untreatet, the have put silicone into joints and to no avail the ship still sinks and leaks. I knew immediately this is not the way it is supposed to go. What are my options? I think there's no other way but to tear it down and rebuild it then epoxy coat it?
May be too late to get an answer here, but I noticed in the video that you mentioned adding denatured alcohol to thin the epoxy an further enhance its penetrating ability. I’ve ordered some of the Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy, but found that the Jamestown Distributors website text says to use Acetone to thin. Is this a mistake, or do I just need to wait and see what the epoxy container says?
Can you do this same technique on a wooden rudder handle? And would it be safe to use in the hot summer? Meaning any concerns with chemicals leaching out into our skin ?
My boys built a little boat out of plywood. They caulked the whole thing but I want to get something that would seal any places they might have missed and make sure it will float...any ideas? They worked so hard on it I’d hate to see it sink
Depends on location but at mid-latitudes you get a very solid base of varnish over this penetrative epoxy of 6-9 coats of varnish (oil/resin not poly) then every year sand and add 3 coats and if you do it well then and are diligent then that should last quite a long time. In the tropics it will need quite a bit more.
Am in West Africa and am looking at low cost housing and alternative or substitute materials. Would be nice if bamboo would substitute for steel in reinforced concrete
Hi have found ,, scrape back ,sand , then with briwax a very thin varnish come oil , load the work up with as much as it will take till it's shinny and full of it , let dry , light sand then one or two coats of you favorate varnish , the brywax fill all thoes cracks that varnish finds hard to fill , enhances the grain colours and next time it needs varnishing it's only two coats to remove , I found on my yacht on the Marina I redo my coatings and hatches every 6 years ish , when I tell guys this methiod they po hu it but the proof is on the boat , good vid thanks
@PayWay there's no 'reply' under your comment, not that I'm as qualified to reply as Lou is, but we don't use planers unless we have to, Lou shows their use in other vids, but they remove too much wood. You would then have to re-sand the radius edges, the board would not be strong enough any more, the checks are too deep, they make you deaf, and especially with mahogany (even phillipine) the dust is so insidious that whenever I sand or machine plane it I make everyone around me sneeze the minute I get near them, including the checker at the supermarket on the way home. Hand scraping the finish looks easier and faster because it is. I like to sharpen my scrapers with a rough stone, but filing is standard procedure. BTW, anytime you see someone using a paper paint bucket, that does not mean that it's ok to use Any kind of treated, waxed, starbucks, etc cup, Especially for varnish. Thank You, Lou is light years ahead of us when it comes to ability, though.
Thanks for the reply. Makes sense esp the wood dust and shavings mess. Another question, is there any reason to use varnish, over this specialty epoxy?
Two questions. First, is denatured alcohol still available? All I can find is methyl hydrate or acetone. Second, this video was done in 2014, how did the varnish hold up the following year? Thanks
Still have "denatured alcohol" in my neck of the woods. I believe "methyl hydrate" is the same thing under another, more scientific, name. Check Amazon.
No. Short answer. Thats if you are talking Blushing cracks. If you apply resin it will just add a layer on top of the cracking. Epoxy is repellent so is made to not absorb. ☺
@@atw98 I beg to differ, penetrating epoxied are made to soak in. Also, another brand is called "Cactus Juice" and will soak into and stabilize heavily skunked and rotting wood. Wood turners use it all the time. You don't have to put it under a vacuum system, but it helps. I've seen videos where the total boat and cactus juice penetrating epoxies are soaked in, then as an example or experiment they cut the wood open and show that the epoxy has literally soaked all the way through. Thinning it helps for a deeper soak, but just brushing it on, it will not be enough to soak clean through the wood. It must be soaked in it for full penetration. Building a dam around the piece with plastic or paperboard (cardboard) should allow enough to be applied to soak through a board like this seat. But do it from both sides. Look up "Cactus juice" under the TH-cam search.
@@thomasarussellsr yes Agrred. But you talking to an uncoated surface. Not cracked epoxy. It will fill the cracks buy not penetrate the all ready exposed core, let's say balsacore. If it did then it's totally defeating the purpose that as a boat builder I use any resign for, to seal. The question was to fix cracks in epoxy not to penetrate a surface that is not covered. To fix cracks is a totally separate issue for what youd use penetrating epoxy for. This is why I have such a huge issue with people categorically stating as fact things they dont know about. I'd say the way I would do it, or what works for me. Not well penetrating epoxy fixes it. It's used for a completely different purpose to seal not to repair cracks appearing in already played glass. Again which the question was asking.
They are easy enough to fix just research better not on TH-cam. Best way just call your local boat builder/yard happy to give you quick advice over phone. 90% of the stuff here just makes you cringe. But there are some master builder here that have great videos. Just make sure they actually do it as a living rather than weekend warriors, cause then regardless of the warriors skill you know it's what they do for clients who pay them for their knowledge. 🙂
@@atw98 i dont believe there are any boat builders in my area, I've surely seen no boats in our almost creek of a river (Salt river in North central Kentucky). But thanks for the advice.
The background music is killin' me. I've seen nearly all of Lou's vids and these older ones with the on-going music just aggravate my mind. Glad that's over. Love the videos in EVERY other aspect. I could never have watched so many with the extra noise here. Yes I'm not Joe Average, my wiring is finicky. Just sayin'.
and I have been pricing TotalBoat products. Their low-key approach here is quite preferable to ANY other sort of product promotion I've experienced. Thanks for that. I hope to spend some boat-making dollars soon.
alcohol evaporates very quickly and depending on the type of epoxy that it is it may in fact be the best thinner to use.It is a lot less volatile than some other solvents and sometimes they'll react badly with some epoxies.So its best to use what the manufacture recommends or test it out first ;)
I too use Total Boat epoxy. (clear) When I talked to them they (Jack) suggested I use acetone vs thinner. He said that sometimes the epoxy will harden before the thinner completely evaporates causing problems. Add the acetone to the resin until it's the consistency you want then add the hardener and mix. But, he said his first preference for thinning it is to just heat both parts in a double boiler type set up instead. I use it to give that amber oil based look to woodworking projects without having to wait 2 weeks for it to cure completely. Then I spray with a water based poly.
I had been led to believe that the thinning agent thins the activator so that I should add activator last and to the amount of product and thinning agent. If that made sense.
YES! Total Boat Penetrating (sic) Epoxy Sealer does not penetrate very well if you are only using parts A and B as directed. There is a ClearPenetratingEpoxySealer that came before this product that does not require the addition of a third part thinner. However, be sure to have a real respirator with organic vapor cartridges if you are working around any PES.
Zero PPE.. very unwise when working with epoxy resin, even if it is 'non toxic'. The product manual itself says to use gloves, eye protection at minimum to avoid contact with skin or eyes. The SDS recommends the use of a full ventilator face mask. It's primary ingredient is BPA which is the same component all food-grade plastics avoid, as it mimics estrogen and distrupts human hormones. Take care!
Of you don't realize it, that dinghy is older than you are. And the owner wanted it done. You do not turn away work of you value your reputation, either. And try to find a piece of Marengo to replace that one. Easier and faster than replacing.
Waarom werkt die man met epoxy en zonder handschoenen....een slecht voorbeeld. Voor dit plankje is denk ik 30 gr epoxy en 15 gr harder voldoende, wat doet hij met de rest in de pot? Epoxy moet nooit worden verdunt.
Every problem seems to have a chemical solution and this guy totally ignorant, when it comes to environmental issues? And what about the health hazards? Should he not inform about theese things, when using the products of the industry he promotes?
that ridiculous. 1 hes an old Sault. 2 where the hell do all these greenies think anti foul and paint and varnish go as it wares. 3 its up to the individual to look after themselves and decide what is the appropriate precautions for them. 4 its a how to not a sales pitch.
This guy’s accent adds so much to his videos. His vocabulary, his pronunciation…
this is exactly the one I needed, re-did my tiller last year or the year before but it failed, I've been reading and watching 7 different opinions from 5 different experts, but this finally convinced me to use the penetrating epoxy undercoat method. thank you so much!
What a beautiful wooden boat. I'm glad to see an old expert keeping this boat in ship shape condition.
Always a pleasure to listen and learn from someone who takes time out of their day to educate others. Thanks for the incredible video. I will be applying this knowledge to a five foot hull of my USS Missouri Scale RC Model. Thanks for the knowledge!
this guy is a master on the trade , incredible skill ,and top details on every task,love it
one of best teacher for trades and amateaurs
Louis, I love watching and learning from your videos. Thank you!
I'm sure the customers must love the work they get back from this guy but tis a shame sometimes that you just don't understand the work and skill that goes in to such a simple job.
incredible work
I love his measuring system,he always has the graduated cups on hand but you can tell he's been at it for years because of the nail in the coffee cup trick ;)
You are a real craftsmen sir.... I am thinking about renovating a 42’ Owen’s Aruba yacht..... wood hull.... I will use your videos as a source of info. Pray for me it is a huge task.
Bringing wood back to life for another several years. Nicely done.
Halsey.
The man. The Dude.
Love this channel.
Big love to Kenneth too
✌🏻
oh buddy THANK you!! ive been meaning to get stuck into my wood trim on my boat but i was worried because it has the same problem of deep checking. will DEFINITLY do this to mine before varnishing.
Brilliant you've helped me with my next project.
I re-finished - or I should say, restored the rudder/tiller on an old Montgomery 17. It had been badly neglected for mayyears prior to me buying the boat, and the cracking at the tip of the rudder was pretty bad, not to mention the checking. Iusded MAS epoxies, but any good brand will do. Thinned with de-natured alcohol, I applied two soaking coats and sanded after the second. The third coat I used half the alcohol and I tipped cross grain to better fill the checking and cracks. After 5 coats of UV varnish, and 5 coats of yacht white below the waterline, it turned out absolutely stunning. Like glass. Way better than it needed to be. If you do this, try tipping a thicker coat cross grain as a base for your final finish.
Great video of your thinking and process! Thank you. What brand or kind of "varnish" do you recommend for this kind of use? I'm making new wooden seats and finishing them for use in a vintage boat as well. I agree with the thinned epoxy for a waterproofing.
My supplier of epoxy and polyurethanes Norglass has told me directly, "we can't put enough UV protection in our varnishes to protect epoxy seals underneath. Only use these sealers under paint." Is this just a reflexion of the intensity of the UV in Australia, or does to Total Boat product adopt another approach?Thank you for the videos, I find them most instructive.
Love the scrapper idea. I never could figure out how to use a block plane.
Well you don’t have to scrap everything. His re-use of the old wood will work great. The seat didn’t need to go to the scrapper as much as you love the scrapper.
His initial prep with the scraper was very time efficient and require little cleanup because scraping doesn’t make dust.
Saved from the scrapper!
I too use Total Boat epoxy. (clear) When I talked to them they (Jack) suggested I use acetone vs thinner. He said that sometimes the epoxy will harden before the thinner completely evaporates causing problems. Add the acetone to the resin until it's the consistency you want then add the hardener and mix. But, he said his first preference for thinning it is to just heat both parts in a double boiler type set up instead.
Wonderful video. Could you instruct us on what angle you use to sharpen the blade AND the planer, I've never been able to conquer using one, setting the blade, etc, and then when I saw you go against the grain I was totally amazed, I didn't know you could do that. Great Job Sir.
Yep, I did learn something new: put some screws to the piece you are working ! And the sound of VERY sharp tools is always great !
Thanks Lou. I can always count on you for great tips and advice! I bought some Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy 🥂
This guy is a old time pro and a scientist. I'm loven this guy.
Awesome, thanks for sharing! What’s your method of sharpening your block plane blade?
Really enjoying your tips & techniques.... helpful and a little bit inspirational to do a little touchup on some brightwork!
Outstanding explanations of what and why!
Fantastic video. May I ask what the scraper is called. Looks a Fantastic tool
Could this be used as the final coat of a Birch Countertop with a kitchen sink in it? Thanks for your expertise and articulate explanation.
Awesome!!! Thank you for sharing your rich understanding!
Wealth of information on this channel. Thank you for sharing
Fine words from a craftsman
Thank you
Hey thanks! as a wood sculptor, I've been looking for just such a product!
What do you use to clean the epoxy out of your badger hair brushes?
Great video dude! Cool looking boat as well.
Very very Nice job as always!!!👌💯👍
Yes. This is exactly what I was looking for.
I used some Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy on the legs of a picnic table I made. Hopefully they will last a long time. Time will tell. I DID learn that a quart of that stuff goes a long way.
Really great video, thanks so much! Question, I’m refinishing the wood on my 13” Whaler and would like to stain the mahogany wood prior to applying varnish. Because the seats have all the same issues as shown in the video I’d like to seal the wood as well. Can the liquid epoxy, stain and varnish all be used together? And would the stain follow the epoxy or would the epoxy follow the stain?
This man is a legend...
I am refinishing a rudder for a friend and learned a lot from this video... now if i could only find denatured alcohol in canada
Hello. How long does this last. It looks long lasting to me. One more question. What other types of UV protectors would you recommend for finishing?
Does this method & product work on Teak?
That gives me an idea for sealing a teak deck .... nice!
I have used Norglass paint on my last boat here in Australia was going to try there epoxy but they never bothered to reply to my emails so going some where else is that the best to put on a Bare timber hull
Wood - stain - epoxy - spar varnish. I like those layers.
Hello,I recently bought a Sturdee dory and I am attempting to restore it. Could you please show me how to secure or anchor the wooden bench seat to the boat. I hope you understand what I am talking about. thanks very much. please reponse
I had a smaller bilge board I threw in the oven for 30 minutes at the lowest setting and the wood sucked in the epoxy to the point that the wood was dry on the surface in a few spots. With something larger like that do you think I'd get the same results with a heat gun?
After you use the penetrating epoxy, can it be lightly sanded, to apply a coat of wood stain ?
you have to stain bare wood. then epoxy over the top of that BUT make sure your stain is compatible with the epoxy you are using. best to check with the mfg of the epoxy.
Would this work for the lapstrake as well?
great idea with the screws... definitely will be using that 😉
I usually have 5 coats of varnish on my Toe rails (approx. 1"inch wide). I do get sun damage and checking after a while. I try to lightly sand them and add a coat of varnish at the beginning of the season. Should I use the penetrating epoxy on the top of the toe rails only or do I have to do the whole toe rail. If I only do the top, will I be able to see the change in no epoxy vs. varnish only? Nice videos, I really appreciate them.
Leo Corsetti Should try using Polythane 1005, it's 100% UV resistant and will not scratch, crack, stain, blush or peel. It also cures in one day. Only one facility in the country manufactures this product, Google it.
+Leo Corsetti The whole thing. And mop it on (liberally).But no point in putting it on over any kind of finish, only wood. I've never tried leaving part of a piece of wood uncoated when using PE. We use alot of Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the west coast.You can thin regular epoxy and call it penetrating epoxy, but it is Not. I almost always use Z-spar Petit BROWN Mahogany (oil base filler)stain under varnish, except it would look ridiculous on lighter woods like ash, oak etc, that is, the interior frames of this dinghy are what they should be. The reason I'm mentioning it is that All the pieces that you are varnishing will then be the same color, make all your neighbors go "WOW!",and they will be darker, which I believe greatly improves the overall UV resistance. Always do at least three sessions of stain to get the best results, and this is the kind of stain that you wipe down right after applying, before it dries. You will notice that really hard woods don't take to staining like teak or phillipine mahogany, and so PE will make the stain lighter colored too. Digression! Thanks. PS: We use alot of Gloss Clear Cetol, yeah it's got a high yuck factor, it stays kinda gummy for a Long Time, but boy does it Last! If you gotta have that varnish feel and smell, skip the cetol.
+Chris Esposito is there really, really such a thing as 100% uv products. Over the last 20yrs companies seem to put that on their labels but I am yet to see one that has offeres any greater protection than layering properly. We stuck two pieces of sealed the varnished planks outside boat shead in direct sunlight one just averaged price varnish 3 diffrent brands. the second with 3 branda of what was classed as 100% UV. And the results were as we had all predicted. The claim of 100% UV resistance was a bunch of baloney.
Remember wood boats have been built for 100s of years the majority with really cheap materials but are constantly replying varnishes and paints and atill about. Up keep is the thing that counts stay ontop of it and do it properly and you'll be surprised at how much money is wasted on product names abd claims.
How long will this last?
Tommy Chong’s screw underneath so you can finish the entire project at one time idea is absolutely brilliant. I can’t believe How many two day projects that would’ve cut in half.
why's it called Tommy Chong's screw?
@@drummergrl1000 he looks like Tommy Chong.
Hello, sir. I have seen some of your videos already as I like random woodworking content. I am an instrument repairer and maker andnI was challenged by a friend who owns a house at the lake to take care of his wooden boat, maybe 6ft long, made entirely out of oak, the lumber is untreatet, the have put silicone into joints and to no avail the ship still sinks and leaks. I knew immediately this is not the way it is supposed to go. What are my options? I think there's no other way but to tear it down and rebuild it then epoxy coat it?
May be too late to get an answer here, but I noticed in the video that you mentioned adding denatured alcohol to thin the epoxy an further enhance its penetrating ability. I’ve ordered some of the Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy, but found that the Jamestown Distributors website text says to use Acetone to thin. Is this a mistake, or do I just need to wait and see what the epoxy container says?
Can you do this same technique on a wooden rudder handle? And would it be safe to use in the hot summer? Meaning any concerns with chemicals leaching out into our skin ?
Once epoxy is dry it is done leaching chemicals.
My boys built a little boat out of plywood. They caulked the whole thing but I want to get something that would seal any places they might have missed and make sure it will float...any ideas? They worked so hard on it I’d hate to see it sink
Are you interested in a tripconny 32 ft in Brisbane
my teeth is tingling every time he scrapes off the epoxy.
Great video! Keep it up.
how long does this hold up for though?
Depends on location but at mid-latitudes you get a very solid base of varnish over this penetrative epoxy of 6-9 coats of varnish (oil/resin not poly) then every year sand and add 3 coats and if you do it well then and are diligent then that should last quite a long time. In the tropics it will need quite a bit more.
Hello Sir,
Can this be used on bamboo to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the soil or from concrete.
thank you sir
Bamboo does tend to suck up more epoxy than wood, but otherwise not a bad idea
Thank you
Yes bamboo is so vulnerable to moisture
Am in West Africa and am looking at low cost housing and alternative or substitute materials. Would be nice if bamboo would substitute for steel in reinforced concrete
Is there any clear finish epoxy that is permanent that could withstand the weather and UV rays?
No, UV protection will be in the outer layer. The marine grade varnish will have UV absorbers....
varnish over epoxy??
Hi have found ,, scrape back ,sand , then with briwax a very thin varnish come oil , load the work up with as much as it will take till it's shinny and full of it , let dry , light sand then one or two coats of you favorate varnish , the brywax fill all thoes cracks that varnish finds hard to fill , enhances the grain colours and next time it needs varnishing it's only two coats to remove , I found on my yacht on the Marina I redo my coatings and hatches every 6 years ish , when I tell guys this methiod they po hu it but the proof is on the boat , good vid thanks
@PayWay there's no 'reply' under your comment, not that I'm as qualified to reply as Lou is, but we don't use planers unless we have to, Lou shows their use in other vids, but they remove too much wood. You would then have to re-sand the radius edges, the board would not be strong enough any more, the checks are too deep, they make you deaf, and especially with mahogany (even phillipine) the dust is so insidious that whenever I sand or machine plane it I make everyone around me sneeze the minute I get near them, including the checker at the supermarket on the way home. Hand scraping the finish looks easier and faster because it is. I like to sharpen my scrapers with a rough stone, but filing is standard procedure. BTW, anytime you see someone using a paper paint bucket, that does not mean that it's ok to use Any kind of treated, waxed, starbucks, etc cup, Especially for varnish. Thank You, Lou is light years ahead of us when it comes to ability, though.
Thanks for the reply. Makes sense esp the wood dust and shavings mess. Another question, is there any reason to use varnish, over this specialty epoxy?
Lou has already forgot more than I will ever know.
luv'n it!
Two questions. First, is denatured alcohol still available? All I can find is methyl hydrate or acetone. Second, this video was done in 2014, how did the varnish hold up the following year?
Thanks
Still have "denatured alcohol" in my neck of the woods. I believe "methyl hydrate" is the same thing under another, more scientific, name. Check Amazon.
why use varnish vs oil?
Is there any type of penetrating appoxy that can be used on fiberglass cracks 0n boat
No. Short answer. Thats if you are talking Blushing cracks. If you apply resin it will just add a layer on top of the cracking. Epoxy is repellent so is made to not absorb. ☺
@@atw98 I beg to differ, penetrating epoxied are made to soak in. Also, another brand is called "Cactus Juice" and will soak into and stabilize heavily skunked and rotting wood. Wood turners use it all the time. You don't have to put it under a vacuum system, but it helps. I've seen videos where the total boat and cactus juice penetrating epoxies are soaked in, then as an example or experiment they cut the wood open and show that the epoxy has literally soaked all the way through. Thinning it helps for a deeper soak, but just brushing it on, it will not be enough to soak clean through the wood. It must be soaked in it for full penetration. Building a dam around the piece with plastic or paperboard (cardboard) should allow enough to be applied to soak through a board like this seat. But do it from both sides. Look up "Cactus juice" under the TH-cam search.
@@thomasarussellsr yes Agrred. But you talking to an uncoated surface. Not cracked epoxy. It will fill the cracks buy not penetrate the all ready exposed core, let's say balsacore. If it did then it's totally defeating the purpose that as a boat builder I use any resign for, to seal. The question was to fix cracks in epoxy not to penetrate a surface that is not covered.
To fix cracks is a totally separate issue for what youd use penetrating epoxy for. This is why I have such a huge issue with people categorically stating as fact things they dont know about. I'd say the way I would do it, or what works for me. Not well penetrating epoxy fixes it. It's used for a completely different purpose to seal not to repair cracks appearing in already played glass. Again which the question was asking.
They are easy enough to fix just research better not on TH-cam. Best way just call your local boat builder/yard happy to give you quick advice over phone. 90% of the stuff here just makes you cringe. But there are some master builder here that have great videos. Just make sure they actually do it as a living rather than weekend warriors, cause then regardless of the warriors skill you know it's what they do for clients who pay them for their knowledge. 🙂
@@atw98 i dont believe there are any boat builders in my area, I've surely seen no boats in our almost creek of a river (Salt river in North central Kentucky). But thanks for the advice.
Anyone vacuum varnished timber before it’s used
Cool
The background music is killin' me. I've seen nearly all of Lou's vids and these older ones with the on-going music just aggravate my mind. Glad that's over. Love the videos in EVERY other aspect. I could never have watched so many with the extra noise here. Yes I'm not Joe Average, my wiring is finicky. Just sayin'.
and I have been pricing TotalBoat products. Their low-key approach here is quite preferable to ANY other sort of product promotion I've experienced. Thanks for that. I hope to spend some boat-making dollars soon.
Use a carbide blade scraper and then you don't need to sharpen
use the bottom as the top ...
Never heard of alcohol before. thats a new one.
That's the stuff the Irish baptise their children with.
Why use denatured alcohol to thin the mixture rather than an epoxy thinner?
+Tony Marin ..Its not best practice thats for sure
alcohol evaporates very quickly and depending on the type of epoxy that it is it may in fact be the best thinner to use.It is a lot less volatile than some other solvents and sometimes they'll react badly with some epoxies.So its best to use what the manufacture recommends or test it out first ;)
I too use Total Boat epoxy. (clear) When I talked to them they (Jack) suggested I use acetone vs thinner. He said that sometimes the epoxy will harden before the thinner completely evaporates causing problems. Add the acetone to the resin until it's the consistency you want then add the hardener and mix. But, he said his first preference for thinning it is to just heat both parts in a double boiler type set up instead. I use it to give that amber oil based look to woodworking projects without having to wait 2 weeks for it to cure completely. Then I spray with a water based poly.
I had been led to believe that the thinning agent thins the activator so that I should add activator last and to the amount of product and thinning agent. If that made sense.
YES! Total Boat Penetrating (sic) Epoxy Sealer does not penetrate very well if you are only using parts A and B as directed. There is a ClearPenetratingEpoxySealer that came before this product that does not require the addition of a third part thinner. However, be sure to have a real respirator with organic vapor cartridges if you are working around any PES.
Why not run that board through a planer?
Paint and varnish and glues will dull planer blades so fast it will make your head spin. We all know how fun it is to replace planer knives!
Zero PPE.. very unwise when working with epoxy resin, even if it is 'non toxic'. The product manual itself says to use gloves, eye protection at minimum to avoid contact with skin or eyes. The SDS recommends the use of a full ventilator face mask. It's primary ingredient is BPA which is the same component all food-grade plastics avoid, as it mimics estrogen and distrupts human hormones. Take care!
I would recommend Woodglut to every beginner and not only.
The cost of materials and labor does not justify the refinishing process. Just make a new seat.
Of you don't realize it, that dinghy is older than you are. And the owner wanted it done. You do not turn away work of you value your reputation, either. And try to find a piece of Marengo to replace that one. Easier and faster than replacing.
Can't you just replace the seat with a piece of 3/4" PVC plastic? He He He
..'u said dingy.
Dinghy not dingy
He he he he..... ok, Beavis.
Waarom werkt die man met epoxy en zonder handschoenen....een slecht voorbeeld. Voor dit plankje is denk ik 30 gr epoxy en 15 gr harder voldoende, wat doet hij met de rest in de pot? Epoxy moet nooit worden verdunt.
Every problem seems to have a chemical solution and this guy totally ignorant, when it comes to environmental issues? And what about the health hazards? Should he not inform about theese things, when using the products of the industry he promotes?
that ridiculous. 1 hes an old Sault. 2 where the hell do all these greenies think anti foul and paint and varnish go as it wares. 3 its up to the individual to look after themselves and decide what is the appropriate precautions for them. 4 its a how to not a sales pitch.
It is up to the user to read the dang directions. He is showing how to use it. He is Not responsible for others laziness.
I want to be friends with that guy! I just bought a 1968, 17’ GradyWhite. Plywood boat, I’m gonna dunk the whole boat in that stuff!!!